How to get more out of Gigabit Ports

he's talking about home use, so a spool of cable and some ends. Not running 300 drops in a commercial
 
I'm not talking 300 drops either- to do it right costs more than $30 difference, even for 1 drop. To slap cable that has 'CAT6' sprayed on the cable in the wall and call it a CAT6 install is not done right
Does anyone know why you want UL listed cable installed in your home? Does anyone spouting 'CAT6 is the only choice' actually have a CAT6 Qualifier (not a tester), or know the advantages and disadvantages of CAT6 vs CAT5e?
Like I said, if you just want bragging rights, more power to you! If you want it done right, that is another story.
 
UL Listed?

product safety listing and certified

http://cat5ecableguy.com/inc/sdetail/135/143

that stuff is made in china, but for a small premium, I think I paid about 120 a box, I got made in the USA Cat6. the building I was running is full of florecent lights, we have lots of EM, due to running a large radio setup

so the spool was about 30 bucks more than the similar made in USA Cat 5E. All ends are Panduit and the cost was within 2 bucks an end

no we didnt qualify, I was told we cant afford a qualifier, cat6 or otherwise, so that point is pretty moot

Cat 6 is more resistant to interference/noise which is why it was a no brainer at the office. I used the same stuff at home when I wired last, but I didnt pull my cat5e because its not that big of a deal, but if I was starting over I would certianly spend the small amount extra on some qulaity cat6
 
Let me provide some education for you- off-shore cabling products have a reputation for using copper-clad steel, copper-clad aluminum, low-quality copper, non-spec thicknesses as well as jacket material that is unsafe in a combustion event.
Genuine UL listed cable certifies against these defects and variations from standard- http://www.metacafe.com/watch/6035316/cat5e_cable_new_anti_counterfeit_ul_label/
Off-shore cables are cheaper (CAT5, 5e, 6, 6A, etc) because they either don't bother to certify their product, make a cheap copy, or forge certification.
If you choose to not qualify your runs, you have no idea what you are getting- even with 'verified CAT6' you can get worse interference rejection performance than genuine CAT5e.
CAT6 is not some magic talisman that wards off all evil network gremlins, especially at the price point you are dealing with.
I'm not some huge commercial installer- I own my own company and typically do retrofit of existing buildings in the 2-100 drops range. I'm competitive on price, but I always get the bid because I provide a 15-year garantee and a traceable qualification report which garantees the investment placed in the data wiring.
I understand not having the scratch to buy a CAT6[A] 10G tester, but if you are installing CAT6 (or any cable) in your home, at least make sure it is genuine UL listed.
And before anyone says they've never had a problem with off-shore cable, let me say I've never had an issue with qualified CAT5E in any environment, including near motor controllers, fluorescent lighting, x-ray machines, etc.
 
Let me provide some education for you- off-shore cabling products have a reputation for using copper-clad steel, copper-clad aluminum, low-quality copper, non-spec thicknesses as well as jacket material that is unsafe in a combustion event.
Genuine UL listed cable certifies against these defects and variations from standard- http://www.metacafe.com/watch/6035316/cat5e_cable_new_anti_counterfeit_ul_label/
Off-shore cables are cheaper (CAT5, 5e, 6, 6A, etc) because they either don't bother to certify their product, make a cheap copy, or forge certification.
If you choose to not qualify your runs, you have no idea what you are getting- even with 'verified CAT6' you can get worse interference rejection performance than genuine CAT5e.
CAT6 is not some magic talisman that wards off all evil network gremlins, especially at the price point you are dealing with.
I'm not some huge commercial installer- I own my own company and typically do retrofit of existing buildings in the 2-100 drops range. I'm competitive on price, but I always get the bid because I provide a 15-year garantee and a traceable qualification report which garantees the investment placed in the data wiring.
I understand not having the scratch to buy a CAT6[A] 10G tester, but if you are installing CAT6 (or any cable) in your home, at least make sure it is genuine UL listed.
And before anyone says they've never had a problem with off-shore cable, let me say I've never had an issue with qualified CAT5E in any environment, including near motor controllers, fluorescent lighting, x-ray machines, etc.

thanks for the 'education' of information I already knew?

Did you miss where I said that we ordered cable made in the USA? I do not know why he doesnt list it on his site, but he can get US made stuff, and thats what we got. I obviously cannot verify that it indeed passed all its certs, but it does list them on the jacket and box. I can dig out a box if we have any left to check the vendor

qualifying was not my call. I suggested we should, made some calls even to borrow a qualifier from a much larger org we are friendly with, but was never able to leverage that in


I certainly didnt verify anything at home, I can't afford the equipment. But 100+ mbps over the line is generally considered good enough :p

But please show me where he is talking about more than a few drops? You are bringing up all sorts of larger commercial installation issues to a guy asking about runs at home, its rather confusing. Recommendations I make for a hobbyist at home are entirely different than joe schmoe at home, or a SMB, gov, large business ETC
 
hp-1810.jpg


So I decided on HP 1810G, is this the correct way to setup LACP ?

NAS - port 1,2 LACP

port 24 goes to another router atm

It's ok to keep all the LACP enable on all the 24 ports?

Just doing some test but I notice on my read over from NAS to computer is slower than just single gigabit.

before write/read on NAS performance tester 1.4 110 MB/s

now write 105~MB/s read is 80-90 MB/s

I will have LACP setup on my main rig once I get a long enough cable
 
The GUI on the 1810s and 1800s are actually a bit confusing. Especially when HP uses the term trunk for something different than Cisco. Cisco CLI is actually easier to use than the GUI on those...
 
Any hp 1800/1810 owner? =)

Atm have to pick up cable to setup mymain rig lacp

Nas seems to work but slower?
 
I was doing a large file copy today from my file server to my large VM host and took a screen shot of it to show how WS2012 does the load balancing across NICs

ws2012_network_file_xfer.png


Both servers have 4 NICs each with seperate IPs on the same subnet, no LAG or any sort of teaming what so ever, WS2012 just load balances all available NICs, no switch support required (would work over a dumb switch). The ~90GB transfer sustained 200MB/s over the whole transfer.
 
Are both servers using Server 2012? I am/was trying to get this working Windows 8 Pro/U and no joy (the feature is for servers ONLY) So then I got thinking about rolling port aggregation... My transfers from my workstation (Intel GB Nic) HP Procurve (Ill post model info) switch to my HP Proliant (Server 2012)box max out at 119 MB/sec. Not meaning to threadjack... suggestions on increasing speed?
 
SMB Multichannel is a feature of SMB 3.0 and is available on both WS2012 and W8, you need multiple links with multiple IPs for it to work.
 
So this is the general consensus:

For a non managed switch HP 1410 and 1400 are the best non-managed switches.

HP 1810 v2 is probably the most prefered L2+ switches on the forum.

Cisco SG300 series are the next step up beyond that.



All have enough power to run gigabit at 120MB/s
 
Let me provide some education for you- off-shore cabling products have a reputation for using copper-clad steel, copper-clad aluminum, low-quality copper, non-spec thicknesses as well as jacket material that is unsafe in a combustion event.
Genuine UL listed cable certifies against these defects and variations from standard- http://www.metacafe.com/watch/6035316/cat5e_cable_new_anti_counterfeit_ul_label/
Off-shore cables are cheaper (CAT5, 5e, 6, 6A, etc) because they either don't bother to certify their product, make a cheap copy, or forge certification.
If you choose to not qualify your runs, you have no idea what you are getting- even with 'verified CAT6' you can get worse interference rejection performance than genuine CAT5e.
CAT6 is not some magic talisman that wards off all evil network gremlins, especially at the price point you are dealing with.
I'm not some huge commercial installer- I own my own company and typically do retrofit of existing buildings in the 2-100 drops range. I'm competitive on price, but I always get the bid because I provide a 15-year garantee and a traceable qualification report which garantees the investment placed in the data wiring.
I understand not having the scratch to buy a CAT6[A] 10G tester, but if you are installing CAT6 (or any cable) in your home, at least make sure it is genuine UL listed.
And before anyone says they've never had a problem with off-shore cable, let me say I've never had an issue with qualified CAT5E in any environment, including near motor controllers, fluorescent lighting, x-ray machines, etc.

I've dealt with UL as a certification company...and they are one of my most hated entities. They do not consider the performance of the component 9 times out of 10. UL is all about safety as in "what happens when the device/object catches on fire".
 
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