How to correctly bleed air from a MCR220-DRIVE

C

Caligulax

Gawd
Joined
May 1, 2005
Messages
526
I have a ton of air in my tubing in my integrated pump/res/rad MCR220 Drive. This is what happens:
I run the pump water flow is fast. Res drains, water slows down. The res keeps draining and I am not seeing any leaks whatsoever except for a tiny one in my cpu block, not through the fittings, but through the block itself. Just ordered a replacement. The cpu block is absolutely not leaking enough water to be draining my res over and over again.
So it comes down to this:
How do I get the air out of my tubing? I do not have a seperate rad/res combo to do this easily. Do I run the setup with the res cap off or on? and how come my res is being drained repeatedly? I can post a video if that will help, but that will take some time.
Btw I have run the pump for less than 2 minutes total in short bursts. Good thing I spotted the cpu block leak.
 
Hi!

I have a MCR320 Drive and I found a simple way to bleed.

Fill up the res and loop through the fillport. Put a funnel on it so it's easier to fill it up. After the fillport is more or less full, switch off the pump and tilt radiator sideways such that the fillport is at the apex. Fill up again. You'll need to screw the cap in *while* tilted (some will spill, prep some tissues to clean the excess) else it's impossible to bleed. The reason for doing so is this, the reservoir construction traps pockets of air, so it's impossible for all the air to be removed if you don't tilt the rad to get rid of the air pocket. The res must be absolutely filled up, free of air.

After this, switch the pump on and let it run for a while. The bubbles will be gone in a few minutes.

Wes
 
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Thank you so much! If you check this thread again, how much is on your 320 drive loop?
 
I put a loop together over the weekend with one of the MCR220 Drives, I filled it up as much as possible, turned it on for a while and then turned the case through 360 degrees, front, roof, sides etc all for a few minutes, then I went back and added more water,I had to keep putting the cap over the hole and fill it when the water subsided into the res, once it was properly filled the gravel whooshing sound went away.
 
Well lots money later I have setup my water cooling. I didn't do a 360 with the case (gods help me if I had to do that) I followed wes's instructions and the air went away. I was afraid the pump wasn't running or burnt out because it was so quiet. Currently have a gtx 480 and my i7 1.42v 4.4ghz about 70c load according to real temp. I dont go by the thermal sensor on the back of the board (who does?). I had it at 1.30v 4.0ghz at 60c prime load. This is with HT on. Gpu doesn't go above 60c after about 10 minutes of furmark. I am glad so far that I did not invest in a multi rad multi pump setup. I bet if I get some decent fans I can decrease temps even lower on the cpu. Currently running adjustable speed antecs on high. I Can't hear them at all over the AC.
 
Hi!

Your temps are really good, running <1.38v yes?

Glad it worked out for you. Swiftech is going to release a new version of the Drive, apparently it can do horizontal mounts. I am pretty impressed by the performance to be honest, the MCP350 is real quiet and still powerful enough to drive the loop nicely.

Wes
 
Well it turns out my temps are really dependent on ambient temps in house. Totally stressing the gpu and cpu together raises temps by 10c. Granted thats not real world load, but still, I'd like to be under 80c. I'll be adding a 280MM rad to the top of my case. Also my tubing sucks, tygon 5/8OD it kinks like crazy. So I got new tubing. After I get a screw for my dremel I will cut holes in the top of the case and mount the rad to the 140mm outtake and use some ultra kaze fans.
 
Caligulax said:
Well it turns out my temps are really dependent on ambient temps in house. Totally stressing the gpu and cpu together raises temps by 10c. Granted thats not real world load, but still, I'd like to be under 80c. I'll be adding a 280MM rad to the top of my case. Also my tubing sucks, tygon 5/8OD it kinks like crazy. So I got new tubing. After I get a screw for my dremel I will cut holes in the top of the case and mount the rad to the 140mm outtake and use some ultra kaze fans.
Click to expand...

That's physics for you :). Ambient temps are everything. If you have a chance to try 3/8ID 1/2"OD, do go for it.

Wes
 
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