[HOT] Fullsized RGB Mech. Keyboard with Outemu for $25.99 on Amazon!

pendragon1 said:
change to white and turn the brightness down a bit. still quiet?
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I tried what you suggested, switched to "white," which seems more like off-yellow/tan. Then lowered the brightness, raised it, no noise. I then tried that with every color. Same.

I appreciate the suggestion, trust me. A high freq whine would just drive me batshit insane. Even though I was in the military I still have really good hearing.


To be honest, I love this keyboard.

Cons, so far: Space bar is a bit clunky, but works fine. Num Lock, Caps, etc. lights are too bright. I may do something about that.
 
As I have nothing to compare this KB to, I'm very happy. I'm sure that a $125 + K95 is much better, I understand that.
 
Well, I've used the KB for general use and gaming.

I am 100% happy. No noise. First mech.
 
I got my ferrite filter. Evidently, when I pulled it out of the box the cable was tied up in such a way as I missed the ferrite filter before. So mine definitely has one built into the cable. Secondly, I tried my filter and it reduced the noise but didn't eliminate it. I turned the brightness down and that helped a lot, but the noise is still present and probably headache inducing. I put it back in the box. This thing is a no go for me.
 
That's too bad. But I totally understand. That kind of head splitting noise would have driven me nuts.

I got two extra key switches, but no key puller, like others seemed to have received. No biggy, at least mine doesn't whine.
 
If the noise is being caused by a pwm chip them a simple capacitor in parallel on the output driver chip will solve the issue. This is a very simple fix if you have a soldering iron.
 
Keyboard arrived and I am very happy with the build quality and the lighting. I do have a slight whine around the number pad area but it isn't bad at all.
 
I finally see what all the fuss is about when it comes to mechanical keyboards. I'll never get a non-mechanical again. I still can't believe that this thing was under 30 bucks.

What kind of switches are used for the space-bar ant Enter key?
 
DigitalGriffin said:
If the noise is being caused by a pwm chip them a simple capacitor in parallel on the output driver chip will solve the issue. This is a very simple fix if you have a soldering iron.
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If I take it apart and post some pics, are you onboard to help me with the info to mod it?
 
jmilcher said:
If I take it apart and post some pics, are you onboard to help me with the info to mod it?
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Here are the necessary tools
hammers-250x250.jpg
 
jmilcher said:
If I take it apart and post some pics, are you onboard to help me with the info to mod it?
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Shouldn't be that hard but i can't make guarantees. You can pick up the caps you need on Amazon. You can figure out which chip it is by tracing the leads from the LED. Or just Google every chip number on the board.

LEDs are current source devices. You can modulate their brightness two ways. Pwm or lower the current. A cap attached to the positive leg output would average the voltage and make it a current circuit over a pwm one. Just make sure the cap is rated higher than 5 volts. A 22uF should do the job but that all depends on the pwm output frequency.

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_1.html
 
DigitalGriffin said:
Shouldn't be that hard but i can't make guarantees. You can pick up the caps you need on Amazon. You can figure out which chip it is by tracing the leads from the LED. Or just Google every chip number on the board.

LEDs are current source devices. You can modulate their brightness two ways. Pwm or lower the current. A cap attached to the positive leg output would average the voltage and make it a current circuit over a pwm one. Just make sure the cap is rated higher than 5 volts. A 22uF should do the job but that all depends on the pwm output frequency.

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_1.html
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I'll give it a peek tomorrow.
 
What kind of switches are used for the space-bar and Enter key? They feel much different.
 
Wyodiver said:
What kind of switches are used for the space-bar and Enter key? They feel much different.
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They really do, but I haven't checked how they are different. I think it is largely because the extra leverage afforded by the larger keys and the bar used to keep the keys leveled inside.
 
Yeah, I'm not going to chance popping the two off to check.
 
I added another ferrite clamp right where the cable enters the keyboard. No change. Luckily it doesn't bother me enough to do anything else about it.
 
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northwoodsf said:
Looks good. Will pick one up in a minute. Thanks.
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I picked one up for my nephew and tested it yesterday. It did have a small high pitched hum but I had to have my ear next to it to hear it.

Btw I just realized the capacitor idea won't work due to the low voltages. Averaging the voltage to a value below 3.5V would like prevent the LEDs from lighting at all. I'm used to working with 12v where I can pull those tricks.
 
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got it delivered already today hopefully not loaded with water lol due to rain and I am at work...
 
DooLocsta said:
Well even though the whine didn't seem bad at first after using this keyboard for an extended amount of time it does bring on a nasty headache so I am going to return it. I now know that I am a fan of the Outemu swiches so I am going to try this one https://www.amazon.com/Holiday-sale...7951934&sr=8-3&keywords=outemu+brown+switches which has brown switches.
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That one seems promising, but keep in mind that it’s not true RGB. If that doesn’t bother you, then I say give it a shot.

This is the model that several of us picked up around this time last year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X18XY4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fRUeBb94QSJNW

I wanted to try the Outemu blue switches and at the time, the price was so low (around $30) that I went ahead and picked up two of them. It’s an awesome keyboard for that price, but at the current price of $53 it’s not quite the steal that it was then.
 
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RamonGTP said:
I added another ferrite clamp right where the cable enters the keyboard. No change. Luckily it doesn't bother me enough to do anything else about it.
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An interesting occurrence I just discovered... While I didn't notice any difference adding the extra ferrite filter, I kept it on their in the name of lazyism. I have this keyboard on an old spare parts build with a Radeon HD 6950 and an i7 860 @ 3.5GHz. I was playing some COD4 last night (the original Modern Warfare) and noticed some fairly significant artifacting in-game. I simply thought the card was starting to fail, it is after all several years old so it wouldn't surprise me. I kept playing through it, while in the back of my mind thinking if I should buy a used 970 to put in here or just scrap the build all together since I just use it for fun, don't particularly need it.

I was just about to get my Saturday started and decided I wanted to play a quick round of COD4 before leaving the house, powered that same box on, heard the whine from the keyboard when the LED's came on and remembered "oh wait, I should play on my other PC, video card on this one is starting to fail" then it occurred to me... I didn't have any issues with this card until the moment I added that extra filter. I removed the filter and just finished a round of COD with no graphics corruption to speak of.

Clearly these filters do SOMETHING, but clearly simply adding one isn't always a good idea either.
 
Lateralus said:
That one seems promising, but keep in mind that it’s not true RGB. If that doesn’t bother you, then I say give it a shot.

This is the model that several of us picked up around this time last year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X18XY4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fRUeBb94QSJNW

I wanted to try the Outemu blue switches and at the time, the price was so low (around $30) that I went ahead and picked up two of them. It’s an awesome keyboard for that price, but at the current price of $53 it’s not quite the steal that it was then.
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Yep shortly after I posted I saw that it is not true RGB so this on is out. I contacted the seller directly so hopefully I can get this one replaced for one that doesn't whine.

Update: Reply from the seller:

I am very sorry that there is no way to solve this problem.
90% of products have this defect. This batch of products is processed below the cost because of a defect in one of the capacitors used to control the RGB light.
There will be no noise after turning off the lights.
 
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Just accidentally found out that <FN> + 1, 2, or 3 will set only WASD or other keys to be lit.


Also, is anybody else a bit annoyed at the brightness of the Caps, Num Lock, etc status lights? Too bright for my liking. I tried a black sharpie marker, did nothing.
 
Wyodiver said:
Just accidentally found out that <FN> + 1, 2, or 3 will set only WASD or other keys to be lit.


Also, is anybody else a bit annoyed at the brightness of the Caps, Num Lock, etc status lights? Too bright for my liking. I tried a black sharpie marker, did nothing.
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They are really bright, but at minimum settings the thing isn't too bad.
 
man Amazon must be selling these things like hotcakes, lol OOS yesterday and back today...
 
The item description has now been updated to include the sound defect. I am still returning since that was not in the description when I originally ordered.
 
Wyodiver said:
Just accidentally found out that <FN> + 1, 2, or 3 will set only WASD or other keys to be lit.


Also, is anybody else a bit annoyed at the brightness of the Caps, Num Lock, etc status lights? Too bright for my liking. I tried a black sharpie marker, did nothing.
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You can custom program those keys using the FN + Camcorder button. As always rtfm
 
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