High-quality (best) case screws (6-32)?

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wingedleopard

n00b
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
18
Hi,

I recently sheared twelve case screws. They had been torqued on two occasions--apparently this was enough to fatigue the steel (or cheap alloy).

In other words, the heads twisted right off of the screw shaft. So now I have a bunch of screw shafts stuck in my hard drives, voiding the warranty on $300 of equipment, unless I can manage to extract them without stripping the hard disks' threads (which also voids the warranty). I'm extremely unhappy about this.

In an attempt to avoid this happening again, I want to seek out high-quality case screws.

Any suggestions?

Does ziotek make (or source) good screws?

http://www.ziotek.com/Templates/SearchDetail.asp?productID=1334
 
what the hell are you using to screw them in? i have used the same screws dozens of times with no problems. try using a drill on the lowest torque setting, you're not bolting a cylinder head down.
 
They were thumb-screws provided by Antec with a case. I was just using a flat-head screwdriver, operated manually.

I've only had this problem with thumb-screws. Maybe they aren't made to withstand much torque force?
 
I would think so... giant head with small threading would be prone to breaking. Just stick with regular 6/32 screws and keep them hand-tight.

I've only stripped out a few holes on computer components, one was a motherboard stand-off with a LianLi case (Rocketfish) and I have no idea how that happened... and I think maybe a PCI-Slot or two on cheap cases...
 
oh. yeah, thumb screws are probably quite a bit weaker as they're meant to be hand tightened.
 
demografik said:
oh. yeah, thumb screws are probably quite a bit weaker as they're meant to be hand tightened.
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hence the term "thumb screw". never heard of anyone breaking hard drive screws....you dont need to crank them tight. honestly none of the screws on the computer should be overtightened. you just need things tight enough so they wont come loose, not tight enough to withstand a spaceshuttle launch.
 
I sheared the head off of a normal 6-32 hex-head screw today, too.

It's still ridiculous to me that I sheared these screws using a screwdriver and my hand. I wasn't cranking on them. I was just trying to get them tight.

The shitty metal alloy that Antec chose to use fatigued very easily (after two torques), which is absurd. I hate when companies skimp on quality just because they can generally get away with it. I've sheared heads off of screws when assembling furniture too. It just really sucks, especially when it voids the warranty on hundreds of dollars of equipment.

So, returning to the original question--does anyone know of quality 6-32 hex-head screws?
 
You have no idea what tight is. What you need is a torque wrench and a fastener torque chart. Guaranteed, if you got some high tensile strength screws, you'd strip the threads out what you're running those screws into.
 
blivit4 said:
You have no idea what tight is. What you need is a torque wrench and a fastener torque chart. Guaranteed, if you got some high tensile strength screws, you'd strip the threads out what you're running those screws into.
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+1
I've been building computers for about 12 years now, I've screwed up before and stripped out a hole or two or stripped out the head but, have never seen a screw head break off. Maybe you need to use a smaller screwdriver so you can't apply so much torque.
 
I usually just turn them in until they are touching then give a little firm turn after that. The computer case shouldn't be getting bounced around enough to really worry about screws coming loose that easily.

And if you move your case around a lot and are worried about the screws coming loose, check them every couple times you move the case?

I see no need to tighten the screws down hard enough where the heads are snapping off.

maybe visit the gym less often?

Edit: removing the screws shouldn't be too hard.. I'm sure that they make one of those stripped screw removers for screws that small, or you could just drill the screws out. I have a set of craftsman drill bits that I bought from sears that has one definitely small enough, though, I guess it would depend on what material the screws were made of if the bits could even cut the metal.
 
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Seriously, you are blaming screw quality for a screw thats only meant to hold an item from sliding out. It has no structural integrity other than for holding a HD in bay.

Like others have said you are tightening these scews too hard.

That being said I am not sure how you should extract the threads. If I were you I'd leave them in there and mount the HD with a different method, if possible.
 
Most likely what is happening is he is using a self taping screw in the alumin hard drive threads. This causes threads to get cut and jam the screw in the hole. I have done this a few times, as I have build 100s of computers at my store.
 
Cajunheat said:
+1
I've been building computers for about 12 years now, I've screwed up before and stripped out a hole or two or stripped out the head but, have never seen a screw head break off. Maybe you need to use a smaller screwdriver so you can't apply so much torque.
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I've seen it happen. It usually happens because the screw is being cross threaded and the resulting heat weakens the screw, then the head snaps off.
 
I use stainless steel socket head cap screws exclusively on all of my cases. They have just enough "knurl" to them for easy starting by hand and with a ball-point driver, screwed/unscrewed at a 25-degree angle. Lastly, stainless steel can be polished to an almost chrome-like shine.
 
wingedleopard said:
I sheared the head off of a normal 6-32 hex-head screw today, too.

It's still ridiculous to me that I sheared these screws using a screwdriver and my hand. I wasn't cranking on them. I was just trying to get them tight.

The shitty metal alloy that Antec chose to use fatigued very easily (after two torques), which is absurd. I hate when companies skimp on quality just because they can generally get away with it. I've sheared heads off of screws when assembling furniture too. It just really sucks, especially when it voids the warranty on hundreds of dollars of equipment.

So, returning to the original question--does anyone know of quality 6-32 hex-head screws?
Click to expand...

Stop it. You are the common denominator.
 
For less then 2x that you can buy 100 of those from mcmastercarr.

And for less then that price form MDPC you can buy 100 stainless screws.

screws.png
 
nlancaster said:
For less then 2x that you can buy 100 of those from mcmastercarr.

And for less then that price form MDPC you can buy 100 stainless screws.

Click to expand...

Nice work! I'm assuming it would be best to order part 97763A141 (stainless steel, not just steel), correct?
 
PolygonGTC said:
It usually happens because the screw is being cross threaded and the resulting heat weakens the screw, then the head snaps off.
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Do you really think that you're heating the steel to >1000ºF? You couldn't even heat aluminum up enough to lower its yield point.

The transition between the shank of a screw and the head creates a stress concentration and that's why the head snaps off where it does.
 
As I said earlier it is probably cross threading. Another issue that can crop up with aluminum is galling. while you are running the screw into the hole it can case the surface of the threads to move under the pressure, binding the screw into the hole. This is why you will normally never see any moving aluminum parts touching each other. there would be some sore of bearing surface to stop any aluminum/aluminum rubbing. Usually galling only happens with aluminum/aluminum friction, but can happen at other times.
 
blivit4 said:
Do you really think that you're heating the steel to >1000ºF? You couldn't even heat aluminum up enough to lower its yield point.

The transition between the shank of a screw and the head creates a stress concentration and that's why the head snaps off where it does.
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These screws hardly need 1000ºF to stress snap them. In fact, I've sheared the heads off the bolts that hold seats down in a car and studs that hold on the wheels. I can guarantee that the metal didn't get anywhere near 1000ºF.
 
PolygonGTC said:
These screws hardly need 1000ºF to stress snap them. In fact, I've sheared the heads off the bolts that hold seats down in a car and studs that hold on the wheels. I can guarantee that the metal didn't get anywhere near 1000ºF.
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You asserted that the fastener was weakened by the heat generated from cross threading. That is an absurd assertion, because insufficient heat is generated to soften a metal fastener.

The point I made (all too subtlety) was that you break fasteners because you're a ham fisted clod.
 
blivit4 said:
You asserted that the fastener was weakened by the heat generated from cross threading. That is an absurd assertion, because insufficient heat is generated to soften a metal fastener.

The point I made (all too subtlety) was that you break fasteners because you're a ham fisted clod.
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Sure, whatever. Neither of us have scientific proof either way to prove our arguments. I can tell you, with certainty, that it doesn't take anywhere near 1000ºF to weaken the crappy little screws that hold down your motherboard.
 
FYI: the torque rating on a non-lubricated grade 5 steel 6-32 bolt is 16 inch-pounds.
 
Alchemic said:
Stop it. You are the common denominator.
Click to expand...

As with any action I take it my life, I am "the common denominator." Typically, this isn't a good solution for me, so I seek out different products that suit my needs.


demografik said:
to summarize: CALM DOWN, HULK.
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You guys don't trust me, and that's fine, you don't need to. I was not cranking on these. I wanted them just tight enough so that the hard drives don't rattle. Is that an unreasonable request from a screw? Since you don't trust me, and I know how I was treating the screws, I will continue to welcome and discuss higher-quality screws.


Susquehannock said:
FYI: the torque rating on a non-lubricated grade 5 steel 6-32 bolt is 16 inch-pounds.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the information. How do I source various grades of steel screws? What are the different grades?


nlancaster said:
For less then 2x that you can buy 100 of those from mcmastercarr.

And for less then that price form MDPC you can buy 100 stainless screws.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! How do zinc-plated, black-oxide, and stainless compare, besides color and magnetization?

I recently found some of these at a local hardware store. I'm still deciding which to choose.

Cheers!
 
I have never seen thumbscrews that are 6/32. They are all M3 as far as I know.

Are you using the right screws?
 
wingedleopard said:
I appreciate the information. How do I source various grades of steel screws? What are the different grades?

Cheers!
Click to expand...
Sure thing!

I just pulled that torque spec from my machinist's handbook honesty. From my experience, which is pretty extensive as you can see by my sig, smaller screws below 1/4" aren't typically listed in SAE grades because they aren't used in high stress situations. I'd say buy the ones you found at the local store and go with that.
 
A local hardware store has 6-32 by 1/4" alloy-steel (grade 5) Allen button-head screws (black).

They told me that their stainless steel screws are grade 3 or so, and the zinc-plated screws are lower yet. I was recommended to buy an Allen or Torx head for removability, and the Allen for standardization.

They seem to be available online for a very reasonable price.

Thanks for the useful information!
 
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