HDPE Bayres and Lian Li

mwarps

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Oct 6, 2002
Messages
7,067
I am considering switching to a High Density PolyEthylene bayres from DD. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this res inside a Lian Li case, specifically if the res is "hidden" by the aluminium frontpanels, or if there is an ugly white plastic thing protruding from the front of your cases..

TIA

--IO
 
You'll have to trim both sides of the faceplate around 5mm for it to fit with an HDPE bay res.

edit: It still clicks in, and looks fine. I had to do it with my PC-75B.
 
if I put the cover in while the screws are loose on the res, they will click into my pc6077... but only when teh screws are loose. its a really tight fit, but it works perfectly other than that (no trimming needed)
 
its really your own eye's decision...IMO its ugly as hell and I wouldnt want to see it. you can always get a clear res or a UV res that looks sweet at night through the bay slot and a side panel window for about 24-30 bucks
 
It fit just fine in my pc-75b without any modification (just pushed back as far as the screws allow).

However that HDPE res from Danger den is a piece of shit. It leaks unless you use replace the teflon tape with silicone sealant and mine was noisy from the water splashing with it mounted perpendicular to the floor (ie. the normal way). I replaced it with a T line and was much happier.
 
etekberg said:
It fit just fine in my pc-75b without any modification (just pushed back as far as the screws allow).

However that HDPE res from Danger den is a piece of shit. It leaks unless you use replace the teflon tape with silicone sealant and mine was noisy from the water splashing with it mounted perpendicular to the floor (ie. the normal way). I replaced it with a T line and was much happier.

Actually the HDPE Res work very well. However you:

A) Need to follow the instructions when installing the barbs
B) Need to fill it up all the way in order to remove any air which causes the noise. If you have a first generation model you will need to tilt the reservoir in order to fill it up all the way. If you have a recent model a relief hole is preinstalled which allows you to fill up all the way without tilting .
 
Lothar5150 said:
Actually the HDPE Res work very well. However you:

A) Need to follow the instructions when installing the barbs
Looking at those instructions I'd say you are correct, however mine came with the barbs preinstalled with teflon tape and those instructions were not included. Perhaps it's a vender issue. Either way they should not have used pipe fittings... poor design.
Lothar5150 said:
B) Need to fill it up all the way in order to remove any air which causes the noise. If you have a first generation model you will need to tilt the reservoir in order to fill it up all the way. If you have a recent model a relief hole is preinstalled which allows you to fill up all the way without tilting .
I couldn't tell you which model I have. However I tried to remove all air but deemed it impossible or impractical. Besides the whole point of a reservoir is for convenience. If you have to work that hard to fill it up it defeats the purpose. So I still say it's a piece of shit.
 
hahah, what exactly would you replace the hose-barbs with? molded fittings I assume, but then, you have to make 2 different models (at least) one 3/8" and one 1/2", or you could make one that uses hose barbs and allows the user to configure it for their setups (what would you do with the third blank barb if they were molded?)

The point is, they do work nicely, mine is quiet, and it is convienient
 
etekberg said:
Looking at those instructions I'd say you are correct

I designed it, manufacture it and wrote the instructions ;) Sorry you didn't get the instructions I'll talk with the vendor.

etekberg said:
Either way they should not have used pipe fittings... poor design.

As Punx_Clever pointed out NPT threads give you the option to mix and match any size fitting you like. Further, some of us veterans of water cooling have preferences as to the type of fitting we use. For instance, I prefer push fittings while other may prefer compression fittings or barbs.

etekberg said:
I couldn't tell you which model I have. However I tried to remove all air but deemed it impossible or impractical. Besides the whole point of a reservoir is for convenience. If you have to work that hard to fill it up it defeats the purpose. So I still say it's a piece of shit.

You likely have a first gen. model without the relief hole. However, you can fill the first gen. to the top by simply tilting it up slightly during filling. In fact I have the very first one in my rig right now. I filled it in about 3 minutes over 10 months ago and have not had to service it since.

As to the piece of shit comment…..every review of the res or a kit with this res has been very positive. :)
 
Lothar5150 said:
I designed it, manufacture it and wrote the instructions ;) Sorry you didn't get the instructions I'll talk with the vendor.
I'm sure you will talk to the vendor. Wait...don't you have to know who the vendor is first? I didn't realize you designed it, If I would have known you were responsible I would have sent you a hate mail for every drop that your reservoir leaked onto my CDRW drive. How about you give me your address so I can mail your POS reservoir back to you. ;)

Lothar5150 said:
As Punx_Clever pointed out NPT threads give you the option to mix and match any size fitting you like. Further, some of us veterans of water cooling have preferences as to the type of fitting we use. For instance, I prefer push fittings while other may prefer compression fittings or barbs. .
You should have used o-ring fittings with countersunk straight threads rather than NPT threads. You could still mix and match fittings that way. NPT threads suck. You should have realzied that after your reservoir still leaked on you with teflon tape. I assume you originally intended the standard teflon tape for sealing the threads? I shouldn't have to use silicone sealant to stop the thing from leaking.
Lothar5150 said:
As to the piece of shit comment…..every review of the res or a kit with this res has been very positive. :)
Yes, well I read several positive reviews before buying myself. I now think those reviews are crap. After having problems I read other forums where others had much the same experience; try xtremesystems.org for starters.
 
etekberg said:
I'm sure you will talk to the vendor. Wait...don't you have to know who the vendor is first? I didn't realize you designed it, If I would have known you were responsible I would have sent you a hate mail for every drop that your reservoir leaked onto my CDRW drive. How about you give me your address so I can mail your POS reservoir back to you. ;)

check you PM's kid
 
Lothar5150 said:
Actually the HDPE Res work very well. However you:

A) Need to follow the instructions when installing the barbs
B) Need to fill it up all the way in order to remove any air which causes the noise. If you have a first generation model you will need to tilt the reservoir in order to fill it up all the way. If you have a recent model a relief hole is preinstalled which allows you to fill up all the way without tilting .


Glad I got you in here, Lothar5150. You remember me, I'm the punkass kid who doubted the HDPE res a few months back.

People are saying it works in a PC-75, people are saying it doesn't. So I'm asking you, does it work stock with the Lian Li PC-75, with the lili aluminium faceplates?
 
mwarps said:
Glad I got you in here, Lothar5150. You remember me, I'm the punkass kid who doubted the HDPE res a few months back.

People are saying it works in a PC-75, people are saying it doesn't. So I'm asking you, does it work stock with the Lian Li PC-75, with the lili aluminium faceplates?

Yes, this is why it the front is shaped as it is. However, you will still need to trim the face plate.
 
mwarps said:
Glad I got you in here, Lothar5150. You remember me, I'm the punkass kid who doubted the HDPE res a few months back.

Greetings mwarps!

So did you ever have a problem with the acrylic or are you UG for some other reason? I think the HDPE is fugly, but if I was going to hide it in my case I wouldn't have a problem using one. :)
 
TopNurse,

i don't think that reservoir was ever conceived (or intended) to be nice or aestetically apealing, On the other hand, i recently bought one, and there's several positive aspects to it:
- hpde - better than acrylic; or aluminium - even if anodinized.
- price - lower than the above counterparts
- freedom of choice regarding the fittings aspect
- was a studied concept, instead of the common "bowl" reservoirs, that don't supply any new features apart from the looks.

- not so positive - the sealing method of the fittings.
 
etekberg said:
You should have used o-ring fittings with countersunk straight threads rather than NPT threads. You could still mix and match fittings that way. NPT threads suck. You should have realzied that after your reservoir still leaked on you with teflon tape. I assume you originally intended the standard teflon tape for sealing the threads? I shouldn't have to use silicone sealant to stop the thing from leaking.

Yes, lets use relatively hard to find barbs that use a threading that was never meant to contain liquids at all over barbs that have threading designed to contain liquids and gasses even at very high pressure. NPT threads far from suck my friend, or at least I hope so, i've trusted my life to them on many occasions.

Side note, with the tape that came on the barbs (from DangerDen) my resivoir DIDN'T leak, even with the barbs only hand-tight. And I'm sure many other have had this very same experience. But, if you cant figure out how to use the teflon correctly you probly shouldn't be doing water-cooling anyways.
Perhaps you ought to learn how to use teflon?

Lothar: I managed, like I said before, to get the lian-li plates on without trimming. Took a bit of effort, but everything fits super-snug.
 
Punx_Clever said:
Yes, lets use relatively hard to find barbs that use a threading that was never meant to contain liquids at all over barbs that have threading designed to contain liquids and gasses even at very high pressure. NPT threads far from suck my friend, or at least I hope so, i've trusted my life to them on many occasions.
So you're saying o-rings aren't made to contain liquids? What are they meant to contain? After working with fuel injection and cooling systems I can tell you it's a lot more likely for NPT fittings to leak rather than o-rings. The one advantage NPT has going for it is the cost.
Punx_Clever said:
But, if you cant figure out how to use the teflon correctly you probly shouldn't be doing water-cooling anyways. Perhaps you ought to learn how to use teflon?.
Yes, that's it. I don't know how to use teflon tape :rolleyes:
 
Top Nurse said:
Greetings mwarps!

So did you ever have a problem with the acrylic or are you UG for some other reason? I think the HDPE is fugly, but if I was going to hide it in my case I wouldn't have a problem using one. :)


Well, she's starting to get some gunk in her, and I fear at her old age that my attempting to clean her will break/crack/leak/burp/puke/etc, so I am looking for alternatives.

also, thx Lothar5150 for the response.
 
etekberg said:
...I can tell you it's a lot more likely for NPT fittings to leak rather than o-rings. The one advantage NPT has going for it is the cost.

ROFL :D
 
mwarps said:
Well, she's starting to get some gunk in her, and I fear at her old age that my attempting to clean her will break/crack/leak/burp/puke/etc, so I am looking for alternatives.

I gather you are out for the summer? Still plan on doing the open-loop water cooling gig?
 
Hmmm, this thing looks a lot more handy to fill and bleed then the Acrylic bay res DD has to offer.

An idea for easier filling (in my opinion), would be to make the res a little smaller, but make the part where you fill it higher up, so the water can't make airbubbles causing you to tilt it. Just a suggestion =).

I don't like removing my relief hole, because everytime I do, I get sever leaking from that area, lol. I've got sealing tape on it, and i've got the o-ring pushed in as close to the thing as possible, I haven't had a chance to test it the way i'd like to yet, but I need to be sure it won't leak again, lol.
 
Top Nurse said:
I gather you are out for the summer? Still plan on doing the open-loop water cooling gig?

Yeah, my flatmates were like "uh, fsck no, you're not doing that" So I was unable to complete the open loop. Bastages.

But yep, out for the summer. Back to the basement with watercooling :p
 
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