Have you de-lidded an Ivy Bridge CPU?

How did your de-lidding work out?

  • Awesome! Greater than 5 degrees celsius improvement averaged across all cores!

    Votes: 39 60.0%

  • Not so well. My chip no longer works.

    Votes: 17 26.2%

  • It works but it no longer functions properly or as well as before de-lidding.

    Votes: 9 13.8%
  • Total voters
    65
scharfshutze009 said:
Your wrong cooling significant performance increase with air weren't possible until Sandy Bridge and even then its not truely with air as most air coolers are heatpipe.
Click to expand...

So I guess taking a Celeron 300A to 400+mhz (33% increase) is not significant, nor is a 1ghz Athlon to 1.4ghz...

Fuck, I must have been wasting my time for years!

The Celeron 300A came out in 1998, thats 14 years ago.

Hell, lets not forget the Pentium 1's that could overclock from 100mhz to 166mhz too.
 
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Here's my untouched 3770K at 4.6GHz w/1.264V. Used Arctic Silver 5 on IHS.
Highest temps: 82 92 89 85

2012-09-09_11-49-56_776.jpg

46GHz-StockTIM-ArcticSilver3.png


Here's my de-lidded 3770K at 4.8GHz w/ 1.36V. Used Liquid Ultra on both die and IHS.
HIghest temps: 69 72 74 70

2012-09-09_11-23-59_37.jpg

2012-11-12_15-33-38_705.jpg

2012-11-12_15-41-48_520.jpg

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SwiftechMCP65548GHz136V.png


Couldn't be any happier...
 
joejoe69 said:
Here's my untouched 3770K at 4.6GHz w/1.264V. Used Arctic Silver 5 on IHS.
Highest temps: 82 92 89 85

2012-09-09_11-49-56_776.jpg

46GHz-StockTIM-ArcticSilver3.png


Here's my de-lidded 3770K at 4.8GHz w/ 1.36V. Used Liquid Ultra on both die and IHS.
HIghest temps: 69 72 74 70

2012-09-09_11-23-59_37.jpg

2012-11-12_15-33-38_705.jpg

2012-11-12_15-41-48_520.jpg

2012-11-14_21-12-32_241-1-1.jpg

SwiftechMCP65548GHz136V.png


Couldn't be any happier...
Click to expand...

That water cooling system.... I must have it, what is it? Tell me dammit!!

:)

Looks great dude.
 
Just Unlidded and what a difference in temps and stability , Im so impressed i decided to start my clocking from beginning again and see how low i can drop Vcore and temps with a set of 2133 memory and once I hit bottom Ill work back up to a good power to heat ratio . So far everything has been successful with a 25c drop in celcuis in prime of 3 hours and IBT passed. I was able to get IHS off with out a scratch and my top was a hella tight from my water block . but was well worth the drop in temps and vcore I'm achieving , its killing my best sandy s by a lot . Right now I'm priming as Im doing this 4.7 @ 1.330 Vcore

Top Block: Phobya HeGrease Extreme Thermal Paste
Under Top: Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra Paste

3770kUnlidded.jpg


3770kUnlidded1.jpg


3770kUnlidded2.jpg


47GhzRipjaw2I332x49119281tpassedPrime1330pass.png


47GhzRipjaw21332x49119281tpassedIBTPassed1330pass.png
 
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SonDa5 said:
Right on the_real_7!!!
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Thanks SonDa5 , So watch you did and the results you had showed man , definitely had me wanting that Hella good temps you got in those pictures you posted :p . Gotta tell you though man that was a great idea to put the block directly on the die , if i wasn't I was cooling so good already that be my next mission . Keep up the the good work man .
 
chronicfx said:
Awesome job removing the glue. That chip is spotless. What did you use?
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Thanks!! I used a combination of 99% isopropyl alcohol, microfiber cloth, and.....my fingernail, lol.

SonDa5 said:
That worked out well. Thanks for sharing your results. :cool:

Congrats!
Click to expand...

Thanks, you inspired me. ;)

Andyk5 said:
That water cooling system.... I must have it, what is it? Tell me dammit!!

:)

Looks great dude.
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Thanks!! It's totally pieced up. I started with an XSPC Raystorm 750 dual-bay reservoir kit and it grew from there. The only thing that's XSPC in there is the tubing, GPU water block, and radiators. Everything else is Bitspower (compression fittings, tube reservoir, pump top) and Swiftech (MCP655 pump, Apogee HD CPU water block).
 
It's growing on me and I'll probably do it over coming Christmas period.
What I'm worried is to see votes indicating breaking the chip in the topic's pool.

Although I searched through the list of posts here and no one has told their story,
so can we have a few to know what to avoid?
 
the_real_7 said:
Thanks SonDa5 , So watch you did and the results you had showed man , definitely had me wanting that Hella good temps you got in those pictures you posted :p . Gotta tell you though man that was a great idea to put the block directly on the die , if i wasn't I was cooling so good already that be my next mission . Keep up the the good work man .
Click to expand...

Not to steal SonDa5's glory, but I was the the one to keep telling him to follow in my footsteps and take the plunge! Certainly glad he and the rest of you guys have seen the light..No IHS and direct die to cpu block FTW!:D

According to the poll, i have a 35% chance of destroying my chip.

Sweet odds
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IF you take the time to follow the excellent guide that IDC @ Anandtech made, which I posted earlier in this thread, you would have a total F%^king idiot to mess things up. Seriously man, [H]arden up, and join the club!

The_real_7, great job on cleaning that PCB up! I would be embarrassed to show you mine, since I never bothered to remove all the black silicon, as I had no intention of reattaching the IHS, and it doesn't interfere with mounting a waterblock directly to the die..

I do think I am gonna reverse my previous stance on staying with IC Diamond as my 24/7 long term TIM and give the Liquid Metal Ultra a shot, since it seems to work out well for so many..
 
im just waiting for my liquid pro to arrive and to obtain a tube of thermal adhesive from supercheap auto.

probably do this procedure during xmas period.
 
SonDa5 said:
Good to see so many people in the poll having success de-lidding! :cool:

For those who are having problems please share the problems you encountered.
Click to expand...
My problem:
IMG_1988.jpg


Was almost done, when the IHS suddenly offered no resistance. The razor flew through the die, and my index finger.
 
Not to steal SonDa5's glory, but I was the the one to keep telling him to follow in my footsteps and take the plunge! Certainly glad he and the rest of you guys have seen the light..No IHS and direct die to cpu block FTW!
Click to expand...

Nice , lucky for us then cause it worked great :D
 
TeeJayHoward said:
Haven't bothered trying. Worried it might fry something. Don't understand how things work at that small a level. Even if it did run, I'd be worried about reliability.
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Wanna know a secret? I did the same thing, only it was done by accident after I had already removed the IHS successfully. I actually dropped the IHS onto the cpu and it chipped a little corner off. Granted, mine is no where as large as yours, but it works just great @ 4.8Ghz, been humming along 24/7..I am awaiting some Liquid Pro to come in before I pull mine, but I will post a picture for you..

I would go ahead and slap some TIM on there, drop the IHS back on real quick, and see if it boots. At best, it works fine. Maybe the gpu might not work properly. At worst, well, it can't be any worse then you think now..

EDIT

After seeing how easy it is to damage things when you use the plain razor method, I once again want to point out this vastly superior guide to removing the IHS with a much greater degree of control. Credit goes to IDC @ Anandtech of course!
 
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wabbitseason said:
What are you on? A $25 cooler on an i7-920 could raise your overclock ceiling to 3.8 GHz from 3 at the MOST with the stock cooler.
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Sure, but I would never trust an air cooler to overclock a Core i7 920 to 3.8 GHz and by the way I helped build a Computer with a Core i7 920 for my cousin and we did not use a $20 piece of garbage. Instead we used a Thermalright Ultra-120 extreme in push pull configuration, which is definitely not a $20 cooler and that worked fine. Either way though you have not convinced me that overclocking is a good idea.
 
larrymoencurly said:
Does anybody wrap several layers of tape around the razor so it can't go in too far?
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Haven't tried that. It may interfere with the PCB. I have successfully de-lidded a 3570k and a 3770k with a razer blade. I felt comfortable holding the blade in my hand and working it from the corners first then the sides. I was careful about where the die was the whole time.

For me it seems more difficult to do when I think about stuff that could go wrong. When I did the cutting it went well.
 
Has anyone ever tried using a bit of vibration? attaching the blade to a weak electric razor or something. This could possibly make a very small oscillating multitool like the dremel saw-maxx.
 
Hanniblex said:
Has anyone ever tried using a bit of vibration? attaching the blade to a weak electric razor or something. This could possibly make a very small oscillating multitool like the dremel saw-maxx.
Click to expand...

I think oscillating motion could lead to an accident nicking the pcb or die. I really think the best way to do this is to hold the blade in your hand so that your fingertip can feel what is going on and use a smooth constant force in the same direction then check and repeat. Start on the corners first then work the sides. You need to control the blade and feel it if you are using a oscillating vibrating blade I think you are going to lose control of the blade and will not feel the cuts as well. Finger tip touch control with blade cutting is important IMO.
 
I delidded a couple of nights ago, and did the cotton clothing, wood furniture, and grounding strap. Also cut a 4"x2" strip off an antistatic bag and held the chip sandwiched in it for good measure, and to keep my finger oils off the contacts on the underside. Picked up 7c~9c but just used AS5. Got Liquid Pro on order.

I was ready to buy another chip if it failed, had the money aside. Thankfully don't need to spend it on a chip as I am researching watering my two GPUs and could use the dough there. They're EVGA 580s so have to pop em open to see if they have IHSs or not (they are early production so probably have IHSs but am not sure so will pick out blocks once I take a peek).

What is the consensus on TIMs? (is there a consensus?) Does the Liquid Pro cure and almost become like a low temp solder and make it hard to pop the IHS later? Should I be using Ultra (got that on order too) between the DIE and IHS?
 
tried the other day succeeded in taking of the IHS and doing the mod dropped the temps like a whole 5c even with liquid pro, chip proceeded to die within a few days but meh fuck that shitty chip rocking a 3930k now that actually has good stock temps, that's one way to fix 3770k
 
Tzvia said:
What is the consensus on TIMs? (is there a consensus?) Does the Liquid Pro cure and almost become like a low temp solder and make it hard to pop the IHS later? Should I be using Ultra (got that on order too) between the DIE and IHS?
Click to expand...

My experience with CLP is that it cools the best and requires perfect contact between 2 surfaces to cool best. Contact pressure doesn't need to be high with with CLP because it spreads so thin. Because of low contact pressure it is ideal for bare die to direct block mounts. The key again for optimum performance with CLP is having even contact between the 2 surfaces being cooled. I used contact pressure paper test to verify contact pressure area between die and block before using CLP. CLP is to only be used between high quality pure copper metals and will not hurt die surface. CLP will eat through aluminum. CLP is not easy to clean off but I have not experienced any type of bonding/glue like effect between the bare dies of 3570k, 3770k, and a HD7950 with direct contact to blocks.



Many people use CL Ultra because it works near as good and is easier to clean.
 
Well, I got my Liquid PRO and Ultra in, and decided on using the Ultra.

I had done several test mounts when I delidded, which looked good, but dang my mount sucked; the AS5 was thicker on one end of the die, almost like the Intel paste. I had not paid much attention to getting ALL that black glue gunk off the PCB and IHS before, so now took the time to clean it well as I had added a T drain to my loop and was leak testing so was not in a hurry. I verified that the IHS was flush against the PCB on all sides, then carefully remounted it all with the Ultra.

Ran IBT set on Xtreme and the temps hit 61c. Room was 18c. Prime small FFT hit 59c. Much better than what I had before, where IBT hit 81c and Prime hovered in the mid 70s. I think that black glue held the IHS just a small amount above the die, and that gap accounted for my bad mount and the high temps. Don't know how much the CLU paste helps, but I am sure it didn't hurt. Been reading around that the gap due to that glue crap is the cause of the excessive heat with these chips and I'm thinking that there may be something to it...
 
ccityinstaller said:
Not to steal SonDa5's glory, but I was the the one to keep telling him to follow in my footsteps and take the plunge! Certainly glad he and the rest of you guys have seen the light..No IHS and direct die to cpu block FTW
Click to expand...


I literally spent about 2 months thinking about doing this and I thank those that went before me and showed me the hard facts that delidding works. Thanks to you and many others.I too agree that eliminating the IHS works best.


Congrats Tzvia.
 
successfully operation, slightly scrapped the board with the razer but works perfectly fine. approx 18 degrees C temperature drop when stressed for 1/2 with Prime95.
 
Folks,

I've got an i3750k. Any idea how much overclocking headroom this mod would allow? Or are most doing this for temp/fan noise/environmental reasons?

Cheers
Sunil
 
sunnyd76 said:
Folks,

I've got an i3750k. Any idea how much overclocking headroom this mod would allow? Or are most doing this for temp/fan noise/environmental reasons?

Cheers
Sunil
Click to expand...

This is a quintessential mod if you are serious about cpu performance. No guarantees on how much higher your IB cpu will over clock but it will run cooler and operate better.
 
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