H50 Push/Pull worth it with 800RPM fans?

fullvietFX

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Has anybody tested the H50 push/pull with 800RPM fans? I don't like the idea of the stock fan pushing hot air inside of the case. My plan was to have one fan push air from inside the case and the other sucking hot air out. However the fans I want to use have very low CFM. What do you guys think?
 

Sojuuk

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Has anybody tested the H50 push/pull with 800RPM fans? I don't like the idea of the stock fan pushing hot air inside of the case. My plan was to have one fan push air from inside the case and the other sucking hot air out. However the fans I want to use have very low CFM. What do you guys think?
rpm is about the least important stat on a fan. What matters in this use is Static Air Pressure and CFM. Give us that info and we might be able to tell you what to expect.
 

lehmann

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I was going to buy a H50 and do the same thing. but bought the 120 rev c instead
 

BillParrish

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I think that you will suffer significant performance loss by feeding the warmer internal case air to the rad. How much depends on your overall case air flow.

Push pull is most effective on thick closely spaced fin rads as it helps overcome the resistance to air flow through the rad. The corsair rad does not fit that description. Push pull does not signficantly increase the amount of air, cfm as both fans are spinning at the same speed (cfm does not double). The benefit of the second fan will be minimal. 800 rpm is very slow. It will follow that the static pressure will be low (not too big of a concern as the rad is not particularly restrictive to airflow) but the cfm will be very low as well. Again a big performance hit.

If you are not OCing and going only for extremely low noise, give it a go. Two fans will flow more air, even if just a little and it could not hurt. But I believe you will be disappointed. However it takes only a screwdriver and a few minutes to change fan direction so there is certainly not much to lose in trying several different (one fan, two fan, blows in, blows out) configurations until you find the one that meets your needs best.
 

InvisiBill

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I think that you will suffer significant performance loss by feeding the warmer internal case air to the rad. How much depends on your overall case air flow.
The problem with the H50 is that you're either feeding warmer case air into the radiator or you're dumping heat from the radiator into your case.

Generally speaking, I think I'd usually default to having the rad in the upper rear fan spot with case air exhausting through it. You might be getting slightly less cooling on the CPU, but at least you're exhausting heat out of the case. The location where you'd generally mount the rad is usually configured as an exhaust fan, so changing it to an intake could also screw with general airflow in your case. And remember that the CPU's heat is going into the rad, not the case air around it (so your case's ambient temp should be lower than it was anyway). I have no doubt that using fresh air into the rad would keep the CPU cooler, but I think the extra heat being dumped into the case is a bigger issue than a degree or two on your CPU.


Invest in the right fan and you will only need one and it will do a superior job at low db....wc calls for static pressure, not a regular case fan which is what corsair shipped with the H50

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...m_Low_Speed_Fan_-_1200_RPM.html?tl=g36c15s932
According to http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/2/, the H50's fan has twice the static pressure of the Triebwerk (3.57mm vs. 1.62mm). The Triebwerk looks like a great fan for a rad, but just based on that one number, it seems to be inferior. *shrug*
 

Rogue71

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The problem with the H50 is that you're either feeding warmer case air into the radiator or you're dumping heat from the radiator into your case.

....using a traditional hsf dumps heat into your case as well. if you have a case with a top exhaust fan ( ie: antec 1200)the new air is sucked right out, having very little if any effect on case temps.




According to http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/2/, the H50's fan has twice the static pressure of the Triebwerk (3.57mm vs. 1.62mm). The Triebwerk looks like a great fan for a rad, but just based on that one number, it seems to be inferior. *shrug*
......that makes me wonder if the specs are right. the static pressure numbers look way higher, unless lower is considered better? i just cant see a $10 fan crushing a $34 fan like that. im interested in knowing though, as doing a search for that akasa model tells me they make a blue led version....
 

BillParrish

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You are absolutely correct, It is a design decision WCers have had to deal with since day one. Believe me we have already determined the best compromise. It is to deal with the warm air in the case as opposed to negating the effectiveness of the rad. Otherwise you should just air cool because the problem is the same. Think about it, your logic does not follow. Air cool or H50 blowing in, that heat is in the case and needs to be removed. The execution of the solution has different parameters but the issue is exactly the same.

People tend to think the air coming off a a WCing rad is hot, it is not, it is only a few deg above ambient, if even that. If your overall case airflow is any decent at all, as it should be as there are other things than the CPU that needs to be cooled, this rad heat is trivial. Using the standard H50 install the fan is going to exhaust into the case directly under the intake for the power supply in most typical case setups and will get almost instantly exhausted through the power supply. This will make the power supply receive slightly warmer intake air but any decent power supply with sufficient power rating for the machine will handle it without any issues at all.

Everything is a trade off. (first rule of engineering).

The easy solution is to use standoffs to space the rad/fan assembly away from the case by an inch or two and take advantage of ambient room intake air without exhausting it into the PC. I fly my rads on standoffs on top of my case for that reason alone. But most people do not like the looks.

The H50 is a compromise inexpensive solution. It requires some "futzing" to get it to really work well. But if you feed that small 120mm rad case air I do not think you are going to be happy and would be better off with a TRUE or similar.
 

Tabasco69

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You are absolutely correct, It is a design decision WCers have had to deal with since day one. Believe me we have already determined the best compromise. It is to deal with the warm air in the case as opposed to negating the effectiveness of the rad. Otherwise you should just air cool because the problem is the same. Think about it, your logic does not follow. Air cool or H50 blowing in, that heat is in the case and needs to be removed. The execution of the solution has different parameters but the issue is exactly the same.

People tend to think the air coming off a a WCing rad is hot, it is not, it is only a few deg above ambient, if even that. If your overall case airflow is any decent at all, as it should be as there are other things than the CPU that needs to be cooled, this rad heat is trivial. Using the standard H50 install the fan is going to exhaust into the case directly under the intake for the power supply in most typical case setups and will get almost instantly exhausted through the power supply. This will make the power supply receive slightly warmer intake air but any decent power supply with sufficient power rating for the machine will handle it without any issues at all.

Everything is a trade off. (first rule of engineering).

The easy solution is to use standoffs to space the rad/fan assembly away from the case by an inch or two and take advantage of ambient room intake air without exhausting it into the PC. I fly my rads on standoffs on top of my case for that reason alone. But most people do not like the looks.

The H50 is a compromise inexpensive solution. It requires some "futzing" to get it to really work well. But if you feed that small 120mm rad case air I do not think you are going to be happy and would be better off with a TRUE or similar.
I Totally agree, the way I figure the air comming from the rads is still far more significantly cooler then the components it will come into contact with, and in my opion will still aid in cooling the system aka mobo sinks etc.....
 

AVT

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rpm is about the least important stat on a fan. What matters in this use is Static Air Pressure and CFM. Give us that info and we might be able to tell you what to expect.
The problem with both of those is that there is no standardized system of measurement, and what you see is pretty much about as useful as a random number.
 

fullvietFX

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Hey guys, I bought it and I used the stock fan for a bit. I got a defective unit the water pump kept making this super annoying clicking noise. The stock fan didn't have stellar performance either. I went ahead and bought a Zalman 9900A and couldn't be happier.
 

MJZ

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No.. Corsair recommends 50CFM fans, which I highly doubt a 800rpm fan is able to push.
 

trick0502

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i've been running the h50 for about 2 months. i have a cm690 with one intake 120 in the front, one intake 120 on the side panel. for exhaust i have two 120's on the top and two 120's on the h50.



i've been getting great temps with my h50. i have a q6600 b3 (yeah, the hot one) running at 3.2.

 

C64

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Yes but look at the voltage, can you try again with Intel Burn Test and 1.45v normally around the mark needed for 3.5ghz or more or even try for 3.4ghz.

Having a good chip which gets good clocks on low voltages is not too good an indicator of a coolers performance, it's when you start going through 3.4 ghz on a Q6600 that the good coolers start to outshine the average ones because at those clocks and above you have to start pumping through a lot more voltage.

What i want to see is 70c or below max IBT load at 3.5 to 3.6 ghz configuration with these h50's ? has anyone tried push pull with 2x akasa vipers yet ?
 
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My H50 right now is a hair away from hitting 80c rendering a movie. Something is obviously wrong. Maybe it ain't seated right or i should reapply the paste.
 

one30eight

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I ran the H50 with push/pull air flowing out of the case for 3 days and then changed to air flowing into the case. Temps dropped around 10 degrees with air coming into the case. I am just using the fan that came with it and a 120mm fan that came with a Xig Dark Knight. I am running my 1055t at 3.8 Ghz 1.47v and the highest temp has been around 53c. I can run it at 4 GHz at 1.5v and temp hits around 55c.
 

investinwaffles

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What about using two old 120mm fans as shrouds (or spending $$ on nice legit ones)?? Wouldnt it allow you to use a slower fan speed because it will have a large plenum infront and behind the rad???
 
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It sounds to me like it isn't seated properly, or not pumping well enough.

Make sure the pump is at 100%.
I don't hear any bad noises from the pump so how would i know it is it is working as best as it can?

I remember when i first tried to install the pump onto the cpu i didn't get it right so i removed it and reseated it. It has worked ok for awhile but maybe moving that thermal paste around could by why the temps have finally gone up. I think i'll remove the current stuff and reapply it.
 

tony27310

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Ive been getting similar temps as chevelle, and im not running it nearly as high, reseat and try again for me too.
 

Irishllama

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I don't hear any bad noises from the pump so how would i know it is it is working as best as it can?

I remember when i first tried to install the pump onto the cpu i didn't get it right so i removed it and reseated it. It has worked ok for awhile but maybe moving that thermal paste around could by why the temps have finally gone up. I think i'll remove the current stuff and reapply it.
Oh what I meant was not the sound of it, but make sure you plugged it into a dedicated power source, or it may be throttled down if it's plugged into a system controlled motherboard header.
 

BallerX

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These things need to be oriented properly to get the best cooling. It's not just the fan that matters. You certainly want the radiator above the pump. Some messing about will probably net you some cooler temps. You might have to flip the rad 180 too depending on the direction of flow. It kept my i5 750 at a stable 70c during a 10 hour Linpac test at 4GHz and 1.4v. That was with a single fan. I first noticed the orientation thing when my roommates PC was cooler than mine with the exact same hardware. It matters.

EDIT: I built a separate 10v regulated power supply for the pump. That's a good point about the fan header thing.
 

Redbeard

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These things need to be oriented properly to get the best cooling. It's not just the fan that matters. You certainly want the radiator above the pump. Some messing about will probably net you some cooler temps. You might have to flip the rad 180 too depending on the direction of flow. It kept my i5 750 at a stable 70c during a 10 hour Linpac test at 4GHz and 1.4v. That was with a single fan. I first noticed the orientation thing when my roommates PC was cooler than mine with the exact same hardware. It matters.

EDIT: I built a separate 10v regulated power supply for the pump. That's a good point about the fan header thing.
The pump is designed to run on +12V, anything less may cause damage or insufficient performance.

Keep in mind, when the H50 was designed we wanted a balance of performance and compatibility, so the single fan that comes with it was relatively low noise level (~1600 RPM max). If you go to a faster fan (2000 RPM) you certainly get better performance at the cost of louder noise.

If you go with two fans in push-pull, you get better performance and your noise level is about 3dB louder than a single fan of that RPM.

My personal system has two 1150 RPM fans in push-pull, it's quieter at max than the single 1600RPM fan, but performs slightly better. They did cost me another $35 though.
 

ebolamonkey3

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Redbeard, I'm about to buy a H50 since TD's giving it a $20 off deal. I do plan on doing a push/pull on this in the Corsair 800D case. What fans are you using and what do you have to comment on mounting the radiator above the pump?
 

shoto1699

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what is a push and pull method? cuz im having high temps for my q6600. G0 revision. 47,44,39,44 are the temps. usually they go around 50 for core 0
 

drstk

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you set up one fan to push air through the rad, and the other fan to pull it.

i got mines set up to push cold air from the rear and the other fan to pull it. I then got top exhaust fans to remove the heat in the case.
 

96redformula

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You are absolutely correct, It is a design decision WCers have had to deal with since day one. Believe me we have already determined the best compromise. It is to deal with the warm air in the case as opposed to negating the effectiveness of the rad. Otherwise you should just air cool because the problem is the same. Think about it, your logic does not follow. Air cool or H50 blowing in, that heat is in the case and needs to be removed. The execution of the solution has different parameters but the issue is exactly the same.

People tend to think the air coming off a a WCing rad is hot, it is not, it is only a few deg above ambient, if even that. If your overall case airflow is any decent at all, as it should be as there are other things than the CPU that needs to be cooled, this rad heat is trivial. Using the standard H50 install the fan is going to exhaust into the case directly under the intake for the power supply in most typical case setups and will get almost instantly exhausted through the power supply. This will make the power supply receive slightly warmer intake air but any decent power supply with sufficient power rating for the machine will handle it without any issues at all.

Everything is a trade off. (first rule of engineering).

The easy solution is to use standoffs to space the rad/fan assembly away from the case by an inch or two and take advantage of ambient room intake air without exhausting it into the PC. I fly my rads on standoffs on top of my case for that reason alone. But most people do not like the looks.

The H50 is a compromise inexpensive solution. It requires some "futzing" to get it to really work well. But if you feed that small 120mm rad case air I do not think you are going to be happy and would be better off with a TRUE or similar.
I used to see temps of 115F+ coming off my radiator air when my Q6600 and HD4850 were loaded on my triple rad setup, that being with a 80F ambient more or less.
 

shoto1699

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you set up one fan to push air through the rad, and the other fan to pull it.

i got mines set up to push cold air from the rear and the other fan to pull it. I then got top exhaust fans to remove the heat in the case.
oh i see.
 

Captain Picard

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I've had bad experiences with pulling air into the case through the radiator on the H50. my 4850 will idle between 15 and 20*C higher, and the sensor on the mobo will read ~ 10*C higher than if I were exhausting past the radiator. Furthermore, there is no appreciable temperature difference for the CPU with the radiator fan as an intake.
 
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