GTX 1080 TI Overclocking Results

Sherloc09

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 22, 2017
Messages
324
ost up your numbers for reference. Include the model, core and memory increases, along with totals for both core and memory.


MSI Gaming X GTX 1080 TI
Core -- +55 || Memory -- +850
Core -- 1911-1987 || Memory -- 6355

Just started OCing it, under load it's around 75 degrees.

GPU_OC.png

upload_2018-12-16_22-16-20.png
 

Attachments

  • upload_2018-12-16_22-15-27.png
    upload_2018-12-16_22-15-27.png
    566.1 KB · Views: 0
  • upload_2018-12-17_22-34-59.png
    upload_2018-12-17_22-34-59.png
    573.9 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
What's your total memory bandwidth
Found the calculation.

So, it's the max number displaying in MSI Afterburner under load, which is 6355. Take that times 2 to get the memory frequency. Then divide the result by 8. Lastly, multiply the result by the memory width 352 bit. Move the decimal places 3 back, and viola.

559.24 GFLOPS OC'd memory bandwidth
484.35 GFLOPS Base memory bandwidth


Which is a 74.89 GFLOPS increase, or a 15.5% increase over 484.35.
 
Last edited:
For in game feel, BFV went from mid-50s in some levels to locked at vsync 60 in the same areas.
 
ost up your numbers for reference. Include the model, core and memory increases, along with totals for both core and memory.


MSI Gaming X GTX 1080 TI
Core -- +55 || Memory -- +850
Core -- 1911-1987 || Memory -- 6355

Just started OCing it, under load it's around 75 degrees.

View attachment 128727
View attachment 128203

Have you considered detaching the heatsink and using Conductonaut on the chip instead of the stock TIM? I have some coming in and I'm planning on doing just that with my 1080. I have my initial clocks and temp recorded, rumor has it that I should see about a 10c drop on the core with Conductonaut which should lead to less fan noise and a higher average clock.

Just for reference, the stock fan curve hits 85c with the OC. I setup a custom fan profile and it will maintain 73c with my more aggressive profile. I'm hoping I can dial that profile back some to reduce noise while keeping the higher clocks.
 
Have you considered detaching the heatsink and using Conductonaut on the chip instead of the stock TIM? I have some coming in and I'm planning on doing just that with my 1080. I have my initial clocks and temp recorded, rumor has it that I should see about a 10c drop on the core with Conductonaut which should lead to less fan noise and a higher average clock.

Just for reference, the stock fan curve hits 85c with the OC. I setup a custom fan profile and it will maintain 73c with my more aggressive profile. I'm hoping I can dial that profile back some to reduce noise while keeping the higher clocks.
Need to double check my temps at max game load, bu they aren't bad, think they don't get into the 80s.
 
Need to double check my temps at max game load, bu they aren't bad, think they don't get into the 80s.

So I've put liquid metal Conductonaut on my 1080 die and here are the results...

Max fan Speed dropped down to a max of 70% versus 85% which equates to a large reduction in noise with 450 less RPM at max load. (This is the loudest component in my system).
Average clock climbed by 25MHz from 1950MHz to 1975MHz.
Max temps dropped 4°c
Idle temps dropped 2°c
Artifact count dropped to ~1 per 5 minutes versus ~1 per 1 minute.

I applied the Conductonaut entirely to minimize fan noise, so it was a huge win in that area.

My CPU is up next for delidding followed by an AIO loop versus my 212 Evo. I think I'll try a hybrid video card for my next upgrade.
 
Last edited:
Wish there was a better bios to flash in to unlock the power of the 1080 :( Mine rarely goes above 58 to 60c. Could easily go past 2113 (depending on the game) with a few more Mv. I dont push the memory that far but have a few profiles for various games with a more balanced approach. Maybe farther along in its life I'll try for the shunt mod.
 
Hey keep us updated since I was toying with the idea of flashing my Asus Strix 1080Ti OC edition.

I run the card at 2083ΜHz core & 6100Mhz Memory and my temps never exceed 38C with full cover waterblock. It looks like the card can go higher but needs some more voltage.

However, I also don't want to lose any of the DPs.
 
Hey keep us updated since I was toying with the idea of flashing my Asus Strix 1080Ti OC edition.

I run the card at 2083ΜHz core & 6100Mhz Memory and my temps never exceed 38C with full cover waterblock. It looks like the card can go higher but needs some more voltage.

However, I also don't want to lose any of the DPs.

I'm 14 pages in and so far the Asus Strix bios most people were using does kill DP 1 on FE cards due to the positioning of the HDMI port so no go there (for me) not to mention at this point in my reading they are saying it really does not improve anything just trying to trick the sensors into believing it is not at the power limit but they were seeing lower performance than stock. For stock BIOS's based on a reference design the shunt mod appears to be working for additional power. I just don't want to pull of my water block right now or risk killing the card so soon in its life cycle and I'm not pulling a monitor out. The original poster there was on XOC posting decent clocks but currently appears to have gone back on stock for stability and performance. His posts are not always the most clear hah.

I'm going to keep reading the thread a few pages a night and see what the more recent posts have to say and will update if anything comes out of it.

I think I'll go back to playing with my curve which on page 14 several posters have gone back to and seen better performance than the Asus one they were playing with. I'm sure I can squeeze some extra out of it with a bit lower on the core clock and a reasonable bump on the memory. Lower temps and hopefully better performance with a bit of overhead to play with on power if the game needs it.

I think my current settings for most games have 2075 to 2100 on the core but that's at the top of the mV range depending on the game. Ring of Elysium lets me push 2113 for 95% of the time until something massive comes through then it dumps. For that though I'm barely pushing the memory if at all.
 
I haven't done any hard mods in a long time, but still like to mess around with overclocking.

My best recently has been on an EVGA 1080ti SC2 black with full water block. Core running at 2050MHz (it was really the top limit of this card on the core for this card) and was able to max out the slider for the memory on EVGAs XOC software for a 6500MHz memory clock.

Here is a link to the Superposition run I did with the card at these settings. https://benchmark.unigine.com/results/rid_3a718e0c0bf4436f97639fa0c3b13e55
 
Guys, I came down to the same conclusion.....modding the BIOS won't offer anything worthy.....

My card stays @ 2000 Core with the waterblock (38C max) even without overclocking....after overclocking I can hit around the same as Ripskin and it all comes down to balancing your Power budget..I.e. memory/core

Unless a proper official BIOS comes out the really unlocks the power limit to let's say 150% there is nothing we can do to get any serious overclock. By serious I mean 2200-2300Mhz core.....if it is possible at all on water.
 
That seems to be the consensus of the other thread. I feel like Nvidia gimped the 10 series in case Turing wouldnt be ready to replace it so a true 11 series would be the 10's with more power giving higher clocks.

Shame too as I believe mine is a solid core able to go pretty high if it got enough power. I guess I'll go back to playing with a good balance on memory / core vs raw core speed.
 
Back
Top