Got question for future de-lid/re-lid on I7 7700K - updated with new results

pek

pek

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So used a rockit tool to de-lid/re-lid my 7700k. Plugged it into a new build asus tuf z270 mark 1, wouldn't boot, leds said bad memory. ordered new ram, still the same error led. So, put in a new untouched 7700k, everything is fat, dumb and happy, just the temps change very slowly under stress (using a new noctua nh-d15), but maxes out at 70c, idle is 32c, room temp is 23c-ish. I used almost exactly the same steps (to give me some wiggle room in case I screwed something up), used the same gasket sealer that Kyle used with the rockit re-lid tool. I'm going to pop off the spreader and try again, but anything I should look out for this time around, always assuming that I didn't bork it up completely?
 
look for any damage to the CPU PCB, any scratch on the CPU Die and look for a damaged contact on the back of the CPU. also check your CPU cooler pressure, if it's too tight it may cause some bending on the CPU PCB causing to not seat correctly and to not make proper contact. i've faced those kind of issues in the past overtightening coolers led to bad readings on RAM modules, which remember me to check the RTV Seal to be extremely thin to avoid such issues, as a really thick layer of gasket can make the IHS too high and cause any cooler to be over-tight and cause bending in the CPU PCB
 
I might recommend the second time around that you skip the RTV and go with some gel superglue. It's cleaner, easier to clean off if you need to redo it, easier to delid again if you need to, and allows for a much lower z-height on the IHS without needing to really crank the relid tool bolt.

I did two delids on my 7600k and was so thankful that I used superglue when I went to do it the second time. A little bit of acetone and patience cleans the old glue off with much greater ease than having to peel gasket sealer.

Just put a tiny dot on each corner of the IHS; that's all you'll need.
 
Well, for a status. I de-lided the failing I7 7700, and did it again with superglue, but it still own't boot. Got gutsy and pulled the 7700k out of my gaming rig, as a baseline, it idled about 36 (8 over ambient) , and running FO4 (since Wolf part duex isn't running for me), where the temp would hit close to 80 when it was calculating a new location it's now maxing out at about 60 with the fans idling at about 300 rpm (noctua nh15), fans never went over 350 rpm, so if I changed the slope of the speed I could probably keep idle below 35 and max below 50-55.

So the second time is a win. I get about a 20 degree drop.
 
I would clean the hell out of your first 7700k (assuming no obvious scratches to the PCB) and try again with RTV and plenty of pressure on the remounting clamp (and then let it cure for a few hours before removing the clamp). The first time I tried my delid I also got the 00 debug code (bad memory) but it was due to the IHS being too high - a thorough cleaning and remount cured the issue.
 
I didn't see it mentioned but take a magnifying glass and make sure you haven't bent pins in your motherboard CPU socket. It happens to the best of us. I'm doubtful you damaged the PCB with the tool if you had taken a razor blade to it maybe. Next make sure silicon and IHS are in in proper/factory orientation. It's easy to get wrong and have metal touching PCB traces which might be the issue. I prefer the RTV and do it in such a way it looks factory installed and would pass a warranty check.
 
Did clean it up pretty well, Wood cuticle scraper/cut-down credit card (good for shaping to get into narrow places), cleaned up with acetone, then used a dab of super glue on each corner. the MB is ok, the new 7700k I got (and de-lidded) is humming along fat, dumb and happy (or is that me?). I'l take some acetone to the old 7700k and re-apply super glue. The spread of the liquid metal tim was good, made good contact with the heat spreader, so I don't think that was the issue. I may have torqued down a little hard the first time around, doesn't take much to make a good connection with the die pcb, the second 7700k I did I used just enough to hold it down while the glue set. Idles at 6-8 c above ambient, never goes over 60c, used the asus MB bios to give it a low, safe o/c to 4.54 gig for the time being.
 
Well, live/learn. relatively expensive lesson, but then what good ones aren't?
 
I've seen Super Glue recommended a few times in this thread so I'll chime in with this, I'll NEVER use any sort of Super Glue on a relid EVER again. On my old 6700k I used 'Future Glue' (claims to be from the makers of Super Glue) and it literally ATE into the PCB substrate and ruined the chip. I didn't even think that was possible...

On my 7700k I followed Kyle's advice to the letter, except I used the Rockit 88 delid tool (with the relid kit) since I could find no easy way to get the DeBaur Delid Die Mate Kyle uses. I used Permatex high temp (the red stuff) gasket maker and the relid went perfectly. I'd never even consider using super glue again - the RTV is super cheap, like $5 for a huge tube of it.
 
NoxTek said:
I've seen Super Glue recommended a few times in this thread so I'll chime in with this, I'll NEVER use any sort of Super Glue on a relid EVER again. On my old 6700k I used 'Future Glue' (claims to be from the makers of Super Glue) and it literally ATE into the PCB substrate and ruined the chip. I didn't even think that was possible...

On my 7700k I followed Kyle's advice to the letter, except I used the Rockit 88 delid tool (with the relid kit) since I could find no easy way to get the DeBaur Delid Die Mate Kyle uses. I used Permatex high temp (the red stuff) gasket maker and the relid went perfectly. I'd never even consider using super glue again - the RTV is super cheap, like $5 for a huge tube of it.
Click to expand...
Good to know. For reference, I used the Gel Control Super Glue sold by the Rockit 88 guy. (It's nothing special, you can buy it in stores.) I'm wondering what the difference in formulation was that caused your 'Future Glue' to eat the PCB? Scary stuff for sure.
 
Normal super glues are
methyl 2-cyanoacrylate and ethyl-2-cyanacrylate​
Future glue is
ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate
polymethyl methacrylate
hydroquinone
​
My guess is the polymethyl menacrylate or dydroguinone in the Future glue are what dissolved the PCB .
 
doyll said:
Normal super glues are
methyl 2-cyanoacrylate and ethyl-2-cyanacrylate​
Future glue is
ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate
polymethyl methacrylate
hydroquinone
​
My guess is the polymethyl menacrylate or dydroguinone in the Future glue are what dissolved the PCB .
Click to expand...

I honestly don't know, but I'll tell you this, it scared me the hell away from using any sort of Super Glue type adhesive again. The RTV is cheap, dries somewhat flexible (so delidding again should be easy as pie), and I actually think application is easier once you get the hang of it.

There's just no feeling in the world like realizing you just ruined a ~$200 6700k... I'm still traumatized. :D

Oh, and that Rockit 88 kit? It's pretty sweet for the money. I've not had a DeBauer Delid Die Mate in my hands to compare, but I'm pretty impressed especially with the delid portion.
Now on the relid portion I had a problem where one of the holes in the hold down clamp was improperly tapped - it wasn't bad enough to keep me from using it, but it was enough for me to write RockitCool with my concerns. He immediately sent me replacement parts via Priority Mail.
 
Man I couldnt imagine using superglue on a delidded CPU. Especially since I would be so nervous to delid it in the first place.
 
Liquid heat shrink works well - the dried glue peels off easily when relidding and the cure time is quite short.

Perhaps a little messy sometimes but it works well for me.
 
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