Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master won't power on - (temporary) solution

cold_steel

Gawd
Joined
Jun 27, 2004
Messages
539
Does this only affect the Aorus Master or all Gigabyte motherboards including the Aorus Extreme? A friend of mine would like to buy that motherboard since the chipset is fan less. I would hate to recommend the board if it has this battery problem.
Most of the reports that match the completely dead/must remove battery behavior seem to be people with the master, but a few people with other gigabyte x570 boards have chimed in.
 

Luca9751

n00b
Joined
Apr 30, 2020
Messages
8
No they never let me know about a beta bios, but I also gave up with their support case about a month ago too- maybe a good sign? Did you happen to try it out?
No I haven't tried it yet. And since this Problem happens so infrequently it might take Month to verify if this Bios fixes it. I will let you know when I try it.
 

Xamdou

n00b
Joined
Apr 24, 2020
Messages
2
Hello. I made a account just to post on this thread. I've bought the Aorus Master on Ryzen launch day and I've had 0 issues with it until around February this year. I shut down my pc one night and come back the next day and see my PC won't boot at all. It wont even power up. I immediately thought is was a bad PSU. I tested the PSU and seen that wasn't the issue. I would of never imagined that the CMOS battery would be linked to all these problems i'm having booting. So I took it out and put it back in. Then it was able to boot. Over the next few weeks. The problem would resurface every few days and I'll have to keep repeating the process of opening my case, taking my GPU out and take the CMOS out and put it back in. I've finally bought a new CMOS battery that was a Energizer brand. That seems to solve the problem for me I thought. I haven't had no issues for a month until today. I woke up this morning to start my computer and no boot. Did the same process again and got it back running.

Something is draining the battery. I don't know what it is. I'm not a computer expert. But seeing where the CMOS battery is positioned on the Motherboard. I don't know if the GPU heat is causing it to die fast? I have a 2080TI and when its under load it gets real hot in the case. and seeing that the GPU is right over the CMOS battery i don't know if that the cause of the draining of the battery life. Like i said its just a guess. I really don't want the RMA at this point of time, with us quaranteeing and everything. If i do have to RMA i'm just gonna buy a different brand Board

System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
Cooler: Corsair H100i Platinum
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.0
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Gigabye AORUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtrme
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G5 80Plus 750W FM
Case: Corsair 570X Crystal
SSD's Inland Premium 2TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive
Crucial MX500SSD 500 GB,SSD Samsung 860 EVO 250GB SSD
HDD: 2TB Seagate Firecuda SSHD, 2TB WD Blue
Never thought about problem with heat though might be interesting to look into. I did installed a riser cable yesterday because it would be a much easier access to the cmos battery in case there's any problem
 

LamGoHam

n00b
Joined
Apr 28, 2020
Messages
2
Update.. I've figured out why my PC was cold booting. It wasn't the motherboard. I had bad ram. One of the sticks of my Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB 4x8 GB was bad and was causing my PC to cold boot and random restart with no BSOD while gaming. I finally made a effort and troubleshooted the problem by switching out the motherboard with a MSI Prestige X570 Creation Pro that I bought from Microcenter. When I installed the new motherboard I pressed power and the PC turned on, but it was a black screen and I had a error message in the motherboard led. I did some digging on the net and found out the error was something related to the RAM. So I took all 3 of the sticks out and left only 1 8GB stick in there to see if it will work and it finally booted past the to the bios and windows. I shut down my PC and reinstalled all the sticks. As before I had other issues with my PC restarting while gaming with no warning before i bought the new motherboard.. I wanted to make sure that my AORUS MOBO wasn't faulty. So I tried gaming with the new motherboard and hours in behold my PC restarts while i was gaming on the MSI board. So that made me really realized that I never had problems with my PC until I bought those sticks of memory back in JANUARY this year. So i bought some new sticks of ram at micro center and my PC is now going on 3 days without crashing/restarting. Before I had 14 restarts in 1 week. All these problems were ram related. Idk if the CMOS battery had anything to do going cold because the MSI board didn't start as well but it at least powered on but the screen was black. I think it cold boots if any of the hardware is faulty. I haven't reinstalled it. All these issues caused me to buy and new motherboard when the problem wasn't the MOBO at all. I ended up really liking me MSI creation board and decided to keep it and sell the Aorus Master on ebay


I hope this post helps anyone that had similar issues as I was having. The board itself is good. I hope it doesn't detract anyone from buying it.
 

Ready4Dis

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
2,426
Well guys, I've had a frustrating AF night. Thought I'd share just in case this can help someone else :)

So backstory - A few years ago (like, 2015 maybe) I had a Corsair AX860i power supply crap out in my i7 6700K / Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7 build. System would power on for a few seconds, then shut off in a loop. RMA'd the PSU with Corsair, fixed the issue.

About a month ago, I revamped my system with a Ryzen 3900X / Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master combo. PSU Corsair sent me as a replacement in 2015 was still running strong, so I retained it.

Tonight when I came home from work I went to power on my system. Nothing. No fans, no lights. Fiddled around with things for a while and realized if I left my PSU unplugged for about 5 mins and then plugged it back in, the onboard power button on the motherboard would glow, but as soon as you touch it, it would go black again. Removed pretty much everything but RAM and CPU, cleared CMOS, still no response to power button. I'm thinking, there went my Corsair replacement PSU, and I go off to Microcenter to get something new. Ended up with an ASUS ROG Thor 850w PSU. Nice individually braided cables. I was pissed at Corsair PSUs at the moment so I didn't even consider them TBH.

Get home, rip PC apart and try out new PSU. &^^&* still not booting!

Did another Google search about that board and a no power on condition and this time found a thread on Reddit where a few folks had a similar situation and physically removed the CMOS battery for 15 seconds then reinserted - board resurrected.

Well guess what - tonight's frustration with Corsair was misguided - after trying the battery removal the system immediately booted on the next power button press, and is now running totally normally.

Hopefully this helps someone out in a similar situation. I checked and I do have the latest BIOS from Gigabyte as of this post - F11.

Will probably keep the new ASUS PSU as the AX860i is at least 5 years old - and now I have a good spare again for testing. Always learning with this hobby!
I think my worst was an ASRock b150 board with a 6600. The back fan header pin would short to the ground on the GPU. Some reason it's directly in line with the GPU and sticks up enough to make contact with the metal frame... What a PITA to track down. No possible way I could have even used that header where it was at anyways, so bent pins over so I could plug the fan in on an angle. Not ideal, but has been running since (bought the MB and CPU first week it was out).
 
Last edited:

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
OK, I'm back again...and with much better news this time...;) I'm 99% sure that I finally solved my x570 Aorus Master x570 cold-boot problem--but only after trying everything else in the book (see my earlier post in this thread!)

It turns out to have been caused--all of it--by an older, faulty power strip I had been using! I shall explain...I'd had the computer, monitor, speaker system and small clock-radio plugged into this strip, which was itself plugged directly into a wall outlet. It worked fine without a problem since July '19, when I bought the 3600X and the x570 Master--never a single cold-boot failure in > 8 months! My cold-boot failures began right after I installed a 3900X a few weeks ago. My earlier post in this thread details much of what I did to try and solve the problem--I've spent far more time shadow boxing this than I wanted to, reseated cooler and CPU, new CMOS battery, etc.

A week ago I took a gander at my power strip and noticed one green light (for grounding) and one red light (for "protection")--it struck me that both of those lights should have been green. A bit of thinking through the problem made things much more clear. The strip was indeed faulty (hence the red light condition), but not faulty enough to prevent my x570 Master/3600X from cold booting, apparently. Once I had installed the 3900X, I realized, the system's cold-boot power demands had doubled, at least, as the system needed to cold-start 12 cores instead of 6. When cold-booting after a night's inactivity, power demand spikes upwards briefly to "get the ball rolling" so to speak in booting the system for the first time--after the intial cold-boot, power demands for subsequent warm boots drop to well below what is required for a cold boot. So, it makes perfect sense why I started seeing my cold-boot failures right after installing my 3900X.

What happened, apparently, with the faulty power strip, is that upon attempting to boot the 3900X system, the faulty power strip was unable to provide the spike in power needed for a cold-boot, which in turn drew down the CMOS battery in an attempt to compensate, which caused , ultimately, the loss of my CMOS settings--which in turn caused the system not to cold boot at all--because my Windows boot drive is GPT UEFI-formatted and the bios default is legacy. A set of dominoes rapidly falling, one by one. I have no idea when this power strip began to fail, but it's certainly possible that it had absorbed a surge at some point which damaged it in some way. The red light should have been green, of course.

It's been over a week now of problem-free cold boots--prior to the fix (I bought a new $25 Belkin power strip from AMZN) I couldn't go more than four days before the system would again refuse to cold boot. Got bored of of popping out the CMOS battery, putting in new ones, etc., none of which addressed the actual problem or solved it long term. Subjectively, things just "feel better," too--exactly like they did when I had the 3600X installed. I believe the problem has been rectified permanently. Vee shall see.

I will add that in doing a lot of searching out this problem through both Bing and Google, I was stunned to see how many different OEM motherboards were affected, and by the fact that cold-boot failures have been common for much more than a decade! Through the years, different solutions have the solved this problem for people, but this is the first time I had ever had the problem! Before now, I wasn't even aware of it. But, as well, this is the first time I've owned a 12c/24t CPU, too...;)
 

USAF46270

n00b
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
49
OK, I'm back again...and with much better news this time...;) I'm 99% sure that I finally solved my x570 Aorus Master x570 cold-boot problem--but only after trying everything else in the book (see my earlier post in this thread!)

It turns out to have been caused--all of it--by an older, faulty power strip I had been using! I shall explain...I'd had the computer, monitor, speaker system and small clock-radio plugged into this strip, which was itself plugged directly into a wall outlet. It worked fine without a problem since July '19, when I bought the 3600X and the x570 Master--never a single cold-boot failure in > 8 months! My cold-boot failures began right after I installed a 3900X a few weeks ago. My earlier post in this thread details much of what I did to try and solve the problem--I've spent far more time shadow boxing this than I wanted to, reseated cooler and CPU, new CMOS battery, etc.

A week ago I took a gander at my power strip and noticed one green light (for grounding) and one red light (for "protection")--it struck me that both of those lights should have been green. A bit of thinking through the problem made things much more clear. The strip was indeed faulty (hence the red light condition), but not faulty enough to prevent my x570 Master/3600X from cold booting, apparently. Once I had installed the 3900X, I realized, the system's cold-boot power demands had doubled, at least, as the system needed to cold-start 12 cores instead of 6. When cold-booting after a night's inactivity, power demand spikes upwards briefly to "get the ball rolling" so to speak in booting the system for the first time--after the intial cold-boot, power demands for subsequent warm boots drop to well below what is required for a cold boot. So, it makes perfect sense why I started seeing my cold-boot failures right after installing my 3900X.

What happened, apparently, with the faulty power strip, is that upon attempting to boot the 3900X system, the faulty power strip was unable to provide the spike in power needed for a cold-boot, which in turn drew down the CMOS battery in an attempt to compensate, which caused , ultimately, the loss of my CMOS settings--which in turn caused the system not to cold boot at all--because my Windows boot drive is GPT UEFI-formatted and the bios default is legacy. A set of dominoes rapidly falling, one by one. I have no idea when this power strip began to fail, but it's certainly possible that it had absorbed a surge at some point which damaged it in some way. The red light should have been green, of course.

It's been over a week now of problem-free cold boots--prior to the fix (I bought a new $25 Belkin power strip from AMZN) I couldn't go more than four days before the system would again refuse to cold boot. Got bored of of popping out the CMOS battery, putting in new ones, etc., none of which addressed the actual problem or solved it long term. Subjectively, things just "feel better," too--exactly like they did when I had the 3600X installed. I believe the problem has been rectified permanently. Vee shall see.

I will add that in doing a lot of searching out this problem through both Bing and Google, I was stunned to see how many different OEM motherboards were affected, and by the fact that cold-boot failures have been common for much more than a decade! Through the years, different solutions have the solved this problem for people, but this is the first time I had ever had the problem! Before now, I wasn't even aware of it. But, as well, this is the first time I've owned a 12c/24t CPU, too...;)
Thanks for the information. I feel at this point, I am just throwing spaghetti at the wall and seeing what sticks. I really do hope that your power strip was the issue. Mine is only showing one green light (the other 2 will go red if there is an issue), but it is a few years old. I just ordered a new one, in hopes that maybe that is the issue. Please keep all of us posted and I will do the same.
 
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
4
New to this forum, but I found it like many others here when the MB failed to power up.


My Son built his PC on 2nd Feb and had no issues for at least 8 weeks, then the cold boot happened (4th April). After checking the usual suspects PSU etc, we followed coldsteels advice, back in action again👍


This ran for about 6 days then failed again (13th April), this time checked CMOS battery voltage all OK, we updated the Bios to F11 which ran for about 2 weeks

28th April; Final straw, changed the battery for a new Panasonic one, turned off XMP, left the timings alone for now, and changed some Bios settings as per Paisley's post


New BIOS settings
- Settings --> Platform Power --> Power Loading --> Enabled
- Settings --> AMD CBS --> DRAM Controller Config --> DRAM Power Options --> Disabled


This has been running for 6 days and failed on shut down 3rd May.
I say shutdown as an observation my son has made is that he knows when the cold boot will happen because the shutdown process doesn't complete correctly ie there is no light on the MB power button.


This build is my Son's first and comprises of the following for reference :


System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.?
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT NITRO sapphire Video Card
PSU: Corsair RM850x
Case: NZXT H700 ATX Full Tower
SSD's: 2x Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB & 500Gb M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
O/S: Win 10 64bit


I have already started an RMA with the seller who has been updated accordingly, but at this rate we will probably get this replaced.
Q. Do we replace for another Aorus board or go for the Asus ROG hero 8?
 
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
1
I seem to be having issues with my Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi Mobo! I turn it on and the lights flicker on for a second and then shut off. Nothing else moves or kicks on. I replaced CMOS battery and reset Bios. CPU was installed correctly and all connections are plugged in.

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi
CPU: Intel i7-9700K
Cooler: Corsair H100i Pro
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4 GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card
PSU: Corsair CXM 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case
SSD: Crucial MX100 2.5 SSD 512 GB
HDD: Not installed yet

Would it be the PSU being Bronze rated?
 

USAF46270

n00b
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
49
I seem to be having issues with my Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi Mobo! I turn it on and the lights flicker on for a second and then shut off. Nothing else moves or kicks on. I replaced CMOS battery and reset Bios. CPU was installed correctly and all connections are plugged in.

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi
CPU: Intel i7-9700K
Cooler: Corsair H100i Pro
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4 GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card
PSU: Corsair CXM 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case
SSD: Crucial MX100 2.5 SSD 512 GB
HDD: Not installed yet

Would it be the PSU being Bronze rated?
I doubt that it being bronze rated is the issue. The PSU may be bad, but being bronze isn't the issue.
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
Thanks for the information. I feel at this point, I am just throwing spaghetti at the wall and seeing what sticks. I really do hope that your power strip was the issue. Mine is only showing one green light (the other 2 will go red if there is an issue), but it is a few years old. I just ordered a new one, in hopes that maybe that is the issue. Please keep all of us posted and I will do the same.

You are more than welcome! It's a frustrating problem--had me almost ready to throw in the towel over it--but finally the issue is solved--still cold booting fine, now. If I had been less fortunate I could have wound up replacing the cpu, cooler, and motherboard--and still be hampered by the same problem! I'll certainly report back if suddenly it fails to cold boot--but I don't expect that to happen again. System is now cold-booting in ~10s--exactly like it did with the 3600X installed. Before I had isolated the problem component, after doing things like popping the battery out to discharge for a couple of hours, and then replacing the CMOS battery, replacing my ram--I always had my fingers crossed every cold boot--because they took longer and weren't as brisk as they should be--as they had been for months with the 3600X. The way the system is behaving now at cold boot gives me 99% confidence things will not revert. As mentioned earlier, if I go another few days with no cold-boot problem, which I expect to be the case, then I'll pronounce the problem permanently fixed--thank goodness...;)
 

cold_steel

Gawd
Joined
Jun 27, 2004
Messages
539
I believe you were having a different issue than the majority of folks on this thread, but I’m glad you solved your problem!
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
New to this forum, but I found it like many others here when the MB failed to power up.


My Son built his PC on 2nd Feb and had no issues for at least 8 weeks, then the cold boot happened (4th April). After checking the usual suspects PSU etc, we followed coldsteels advice, back in action again👍


This ran for about 6 days then failed again (13th April), this time checked CMOS battery voltage all OK, we updated the Bios to F11 which ran for about 2 weeks

28th April; Final straw, changed the battery for a new Panasonic one, turned off XMP, left the timings alone for now, and changed some Bios settings as per Paisley's post


New BIOS settings
- Settings --> Platform Power --> Power Loading --> Enabled
- Settings --> AMD CBS --> DRAM Controller Config --> DRAM Power Options --> Disabled


This has been running for 6 days and failed on shut down 3rd May.
I say shutdown as an observation my son has made is that he knows when the cold boot will happen because the shutdown process doesn't complete correctly ie there is no light on the MB power button.


Just to be clear, what do you mean when you say "the cold-boot happens"? Do you mean to say that after shutting the system down, that several hours later when attempting a cold boot, the system won't boot and throws up an error message, instead--prompting you to reenter the bios and reapply your former settings--which then work fine for the rest of the working day through any number of warm boots? I think that is what you mean, but I wasn't sure so I thought I'd ask.

Cold boot: after shutting the system down, say, overnight, a "cold-boot" is the first boot of the day--system is "cold"--ie, "not warmed up," etc. A "warm boot" occurs with every restart/reboot of the day that occurs after the system successfully cold boots, etc.

Like you I tried both of those steps you mention above, and both failed after 3-4 days. Your problem may not be a faulty/inadequate power strip, however, so I would ask your son if he is overclocking and overvolting anything--especially the CPU. If so have him reset all system clocks back to stock to see if this has a bearing on his issue. This is not optional in trouble-shooting. If not, well, then you have eliminated some possible causes, anyway.

What I did as well as replacing the power strip--after I'd installed the new one--I set the x570 Aorus Master mechanical bios switches in the 1/1 config, main bios, dual bios--as depicted on the top of page 23 of the x570 Master's manual. (Both switches down), and then I Q-flashed to bios F12b (using bios F11 should be fine) and I set the option for "updating the backup bios" at the same time as the main bios. This option only appears in Q-Flash (not +) and only when the two switches are set properly--both switches down. After the flash, be sure to power down the system, turn off the PSU, unplug the PSU, press and hold the Power On button for 30 seconds, and then press and hold the CMOS reset button on the backplane for 30 seconds--plug in the PSU, turn on the PSU, hit the Power On button and enter the new bios and make your settings. I do these steps after each and every bios flash--they really are not optional, imo.


This build is my Son's first and comprises of the following for reference :


System Specs
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master v1.?
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT NITRO sapphire Video Card
PSU: Corsair RM850x
Case: NZXT H700 ATX Full Tower
SSD's: 2x Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB & 500Gb M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
O/S: Win 10 64bit


I have already started an RMA with the seller who has been updated accordingly, but at this rate we will probably get this replaced.
Q. Do we replace for another Aorus board or go for the Asus ROG hero 8?

My advice would be to hold off on an entirely different mobo unless you have isolated the problem and ID'ed the faulty component in the system responsible for the problem. Reason being you could very well have a similar problem with another mboard. For instance, has he tried running single-channel ram to see if the problem continues, has he tried running different ram altogether--assuming he's booting Win10, did he install it using his custom RAID drivers, etc? Last of course--try a new power strip! Especially if he's using an old one. Turned out to be my problem, apparently. Good luck!
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
I believe you were having a different issue than the majority of folks on this thread, but I’m glad you solved your problem!

It's certainly possible--apparently, there are several problems with a great number of differing motherboards that can cause a failure to cold boot--Intel and AMD alike! Never knew it until this happened and I had to do some research. Never saw any reference to inadequate/faulty power strips causing it--that was my observation, only, for my system. But it does explain everything that was happening to me since the install of the 3900X.
 
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
4
Just to be clear, what do you mean when you say "the cold-boot happens"? Do you mean to say that after shutting the system down, that several hours later when attempting a cold boot, the system won't boot and throws up an error message, instead--prompting you to reenter the bios and reapply your former settings--which then work fine for the rest of the working day through any number of warm boots? I think that is what you mean, but I wasn't sure so I thought I'd ask.

Cold boot: after shutting the system down, say, overnight, a "cold-boot" is the first boot of the day--system is "cold"--ie, "not warmed up," etc. A "warm boot" occurs with every restart/reboot of the day that occurs after the system successfully cold boots, etc.

Like you I tried both of those steps you mention above, and both failed after 3-4 days. Your problem may not be a faulty/inadequate power strip, however, so I would ask your son if he is overclocking and overvolting anything--especially the CPU. If so have him reset all system clocks back to stock to see if this has a bearing on his issue. This is not optional in trouble-shooting. If not, well, then you have eliminated some possible causes, anyway.

What I did as well as replacing the power strip--after I'd installed the new one--I set the x570 Aorus Master mechanical bios switches in the 1/1 config, main bios, dual bios--as depicted on the top of page 23 of the x570 Master's manual. (Both switches down), and then I Q-flashed to bios F12b (using bios F11 should be fine) and I set the option for "updating the backup bios" at the same time as the main bios. This option only appears in Q-Flash (not +) and only when the two switches are set properly--both switches down. After the flash, be sure to power down the system, turn off the PSU, unplug the PSU, press and hold the Power On button for 30 seconds, and then press and hold the CMOS reset button on the backplane for 30 seconds--plug in the PSU, turn on the PSU, hit the Power On button and enter the new bios and make your settings. I do these steps after each and every bios flash--they really are not optional, imo.




My advice would be to hold off on an entirely different mobo unless you have isolated the problem and ID'ed the faulty component in the system responsible for the problem. Reason being you could very well have a similar problem with another mboard. For instance, has he tried running single-channel ram to see if the problem continues, has he tried running different ram altogether--assuming he's booting Win10, did he install it using his custom RAID drivers, etc? Last of course--try a new power strip! Especially if he's using an old one. Turned out to be my problem, apparently. Good luck!
Hi Waltc, the cold boot is as you say next morning after switch off the night before or even as we describe the shutdown process after close down doesn't cycle correctly and we lose the illuminated power button. So even a 'warm-boot' will not happen then.
We have zero messages or lights on the MB, at which point the only resolve is to clear CMOS and temporarily remove the battery. The PC is running stock with no overclocking, when you say power strip, are you referring to an extension lead multi socket?
One odd thing is we never lose the Bios version, and has remained at F11, I did think of only running with a single bios on the dip switches next.
One thing is for sure it isn't the battery and it doesn't appear to be the XMP enabled option.
We will have to do an IS/ISNOT problem solving format with the info here.
I'm no PC builder by a long stretch or an electronics expert, but it's frustrating to isolate an issue when it's intermittent.
We reset again today and going to see how long it lasts for again, I doubt an RMA will get resolved as it will probably power up on a test bench and be returned with no faults found.
I will put an official ticket in with Gigabyte tomorrow as suggested by other people.
Thanks for your input, some interesting points.
 

dfg67y

n00b
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
21
Hi all, suddenly dead x570 aorus master here. I signed up on this forum and posted my problem here. I'll paste it below too.


So confused. Specs at bottom. Went to bed last night after a normal day of working, normal/VR gaming, and folding@home, woke up today and PC won't start, red LED that usually lights the motherboard power button is not lit. What I expect to see: red LED on the motherboard on-button even if the PC is off as long as there is power from the PSU. Everything in the build is 3 months old, except aorus master purchased new from Amazon 2 months ago. After reading another thread here I looked at my BATCH NUMBER: it's 00728. Terrible luck? Again, it was working for months. The frontpanel button and motherboard button are both not turning the PC on. Attached picture of case filled to the brim; not looking forward to removing motherboard if it's dead. Here's what I've tried so far:
  1. unplug MOBO cable from PSU and press/hold PSU tester button; all fans/rgb in the case turn on and tester light is 'green'. PSU isn't the problem?
  2. unplug PSU power cable from UPS (uninterruptable power supply) and plug into 2 different wall sockets. PC doesn't start and no MOBO LED. UPS isn't the problem?
  3. replace MOBO and CPU cables with other corsair-brand cables. PC still doesn't start and MOBO LED still off. MOBO and CPU cables aren't the problem?
  4. plug only MOBO and CPU cables into known-working corsair 450W SF power supply. I left all other power cables plugged into original 1600W PSU because it shouldn't matter? I'm just trying to get some life out of the MOBO. PC doesn't start and still no MOBO LED.
  5. removed CMOS battery, waited 15 minute while pressing power button (front panel and MOBO button) and clear CMOS button occasionally, checked voltage on battery and it's above 3v so plenty left, replaced battery, same behavior as before; no power no LED.
  6. Just spent 1.5 hours on the phone with Gigabyte technical support trying all sorts of things; removing ram, reseating CPU, removing CMOS battery multiple times. Tech support eventually told me they have to end the call since it has been so long but that I should try another known-working CPU and then submit an RMA. Well I did that, waiting on RMA now.
  7. I don't know! Can I check the voltage manually on the motherboard with a multimeter? Start removing components like RAM? What else should I try?
Other thoughts: have I conclusively ruled out PSU's being a problem if original PSU seems to pass its own 'tester' function and a 2nd known-working PSU albeit underpowered doesn't even give the mobo any life? I have Lian-li strimer RGB extensions for MOBO and GPU cables but I removed the MOBO extension from the picture as soon as I started trouble-shooting. This is only my second PC build in 10 years so I could be unaware of more advanced troubleshooting features with this motherboard. I do have a known-working 850W EVGA PSU I could try (with correct EVGA cables) if you think the 450W would act as DOA in my #4 test. I have a 2nd MOBO bios but haven't messed with that. Forget gaming, working-from-home starting tomorrow (Monday) morning is jeopardized right now. Thank you!

Specs:

CASE Corsair Obsidian 500D with 360, 280, and 120 rads, corsair hydrox pump and CPU block, and QL fans. It was my first CLC and I had fun with cramming as much cooling and RGB as possible.
MOBO x570 Aorus Master running latest bios BATCH NUMBER 00728, only change is increasing
RAM frequency to 36xCPU 3950x 1usmus power plan
GPU 2080ti Kingpin OEM bios'
RAM 64gb Dominator Platinum RGB @ 3600MHz
PSU Corsair AX1600i
UPS Cyberpower 1500 VA
Water-cooled with all Corsair HydroX stuff except GPU block is EK supremacy.

P.S. kind of a side-story, I had another X570 aorus master for a month before this one and 2 weeks into use one of the VRM capacitors fell off. Yes, fell off. That board was running with the same CPU/GPU and loads as this one but I replaced it preemptively in case that was an unhealthy state to run at. Both boards seemed to have the small orange MB/BIOS light lit the whole time; I gave up on researching that and finally just accepted it as 'normal'.
 

Azrak

Gawd
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
983
Fascinating that the crash is happening during shutdown/power off, rather than during the next power on. Gigabyte would be interested to know this for sure.
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
OK...back again...now I have a new problem--;) (It only hurts when I laugh!) Trading out the faulty power strip (and for toastburner, the "power strip" is a surge protector or UPS with surge protection that sits between your box and the wall socket--don't leave home without one..!) did indeed cure the problem I had with the cold boots. System cold-booted fine for eight-nine days, consecutively. I haven't had another cold boot failure since. Haven't had any more trouble with the clock losing time, etc.

However! I powered down at lunch today and did a few things--flagrantly violating the stay-in-house-arrest Nazis seemingly crawling out of the woodwork (successfully, I might add)--came back, powered on and...nothing...! Dead motherboard! I mean totally friggin' dead--no standby light--nothing. So...this is brand new--never happened before. So...I refreshed myself on what Cold Steel and others had done in this situation and followed suit. I thought it might be my 9-month-old Corsair HX-850 with the 10-year warranty that failed (oh, joy), so I swapped it out with a cheap 750-watt Corsair I had lying around that I knew worked fine--no dice--dead motherboard, still.

Then I put the box on my workbench and put the HX-850 back in, removed the CMOS battery (a Sony), let it discharge for ~45 minutes, then popped it back in and moved the system back to my desk area--and the minute I plugged it in and switched on the PSU--ON comes the standby light and a couple of other little lights that are usually on--and I knew I was probably in luck. I was, system booted, and here I am typing this post!

I can't figure what's going on here. It sounds like maybe we all have the same thing--just maybe slightly different symptoms! At first I thought Cold Steel was right--that maybe I didn't have the same problem he and others in the thread did. But now? I figure I'm in the club and it's a club I don't want to join...;) I'd rather be doing anything besides typing this out!

I cannot wrap my head around what sort of a bios problem might cause a mboard to brick itself temporarily like this--until a CMOS battery reset via popping out the battery! I've been doing this for many years and this has never happened to me at any time before. I've never seen this before. It's working--but now I'm wondering for how long? I think the fact that I didn't have any problems at all with the motherboard until I popped in the 3900X (3600X ran like a top for ~8 months) is somehow relevant, but I'm not sure why. Usually, when a system that ought to run goes dead and just sits there, it's because some UL safety feature has been tripped--IE, heat sink is on wrong, cpu is somehow not installed correctly, there's an electrical short of some kind in the system, etc. UL stuff is pretty good--if there's a serious electrical fault of some kind that will physically damage the mboard when it powers on, the UL safety will refuse to power on and temporarily brick the system--but when the situation is remedied the system should power on as usual. But in the case of a short, for instance, or, say, I'd left a screw in the case when I put in the motherboard, I'd be getting all sorts of crashing programs sporadically--until the system bricks. But I'm not! I don't have crashes or GSOD's, etc. Rock stable--except for this. It's really weird! Nothing is running hot--the CPU doesn't get close to 95C even under sustained heavy load.

I don't know...anyone else have any ideas? Now I'm timid about powering it down. I disable sleep out of long-running habit--so that's not a problem/possibility. Yesterday it shut down fine, booted up fine this morning--but not after lunch, etc.
 

Psylor

n00b
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
15
Hi!

I am glad that this thread exists now! Oh man, i wished it had exist only two weeks earlier, it would have saved me so much trouble, work, testing and frustration...

I have the exact same issue like in the opening post mentioned with the Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master combined with a 3600X. It rans 2 evenings, everything necessary was just installed and ready to go. On the next evening, nothing happend. The PC was completely dead. It droves me crazy. I tested everything although everything is new and there were no issues before. The only thing i did not do was to remove the CMOS-battery, because the board has a backup-BIOS and a CLEAR-CMOS-button and so, there was no logic for me in removing the battery...

The following 5 1/2 (!) weeks the board was in repair at Gigabyte. It came back with some scratches at the VRM-Coolers and some bent fins, i thought they have fixed something there. But, the system rans without issues completely fine again... For 6 weeks. On Sunday evening, after the PC was shut down for approx. 2 h or so it did not power on. Again. The same issue occurred again! In repair for five and a half week to function for six weeks. Wow! What is this???

The hint with the CMOS-battery-removal worked for me. The PC is alive again. But, this can not be the solution! I have a system with a custom water cooling loop, vertical GPU-mount, ... I can not remove the CMOS-battery every now and then!

I hope there will be a fix for this issue. A new BIOS perhaps, that would be great.


Thank you for this thread, cold_steel! <3
 

cold_steel

Gawd
Joined
Jun 27, 2004
Messages
539
OK...back again...now I have a new problem--;) (It only hurts when I laugh!) Trading out the faulty power strip (and for toastburner, the "power strip" is a surge protector or UPS with surge protection that sits between your box and the wall socket--don't leave home without one..!) did indeed cure the problem I had with the cold boots. System cold-booted fine for eight-nine days, consecutively. I haven't had another cold boot failure since. Haven't had any more trouble with the clock losing time, etc.

However! I powered down at lunch today and did a few things--flagrantly violating the stay-in-house-arrest Nazis seemingly crawling out of the woodwork (successfully, I might add)--came back, powered on and...nothing...! Dead motherboard! I mean totally friggin' dead--no standby light--nothing. So...this is brand new--never happened before. So...I refreshed myself on what Cold Steel and others had done in this situation and followed suit. I thought it might be my 9-month-old Corsair HX-850 with the 10-year warranty that failed (oh, joy), so I swapped it out with a cheap 750-watt Corsair I had lying around that I knew worked fine--no dice--dead motherboard, still.

Then I put the box on my workbench and put the HX-850 back in, removed the CMOS battery (a Sony), let it discharge for ~45 minutes, then popped it back in and moved the system back to my desk area--and the minute I plugged it in and switched on the PSU--ON comes the standby light and a couple of other little lights that are usually on--and I knew I was probably in luck. I was, system booted, and here I am typing this post!

I can't figure what's going on here. It sounds like maybe we all have the same thing--just maybe slightly different symptoms! At first I thought Cold Steel was right--that maybe I didn't have the same problem he and others in the thread did. But now? I figure I'm in the club and it's a club I don't want to join...;) I'd rather be doing anything besides typing this out!

I cannot wrap my head around what sort of a bios problem might cause a mboard to brick itself temporarily like this--until a CMOS battery reset via popping out the battery! I've been doing this for many years and this has never happened to me at any time before. I've never seen this before. It's working--but now I'm wondering for how long? I think the fact that I didn't have any problems at all with the motherboard until I popped in the 3900X (3600X ran like a top for ~8 months) is somehow relevant, but I'm not sure why. Usually, when a system that ought to run goes dead and just sits there, it's because some UL safety feature has been tripped--IE, heat sink is on wrong, cpu is somehow not installed correctly, there's an electrical short of some kind in the system, etc. UL stuff is pretty good--if there's a serious electrical fault of some kind that will physically damage the mboard when it powers on, the UL safety will refuse to power on and temporarily brick the system--but when the situation is remedied the system should power on as usual. But in the case of a short, for instance, or, say, I'd left a screw in the case when I put in the motherboard, I'd be getting all sorts of crashing programs sporadically--until the system bricks. But I'm not! I don't have crashes or GSOD's, etc. Rock stable--except for this. It's really weird! Nothing is running hot--the CPU doesn't get close to 95C even under sustained heavy load.

I don't know...anyone else have any ideas? Now I'm timid about powering it down. I disable sleep out of long-running habit--so that's not a problem/possibility. Yesterday it shut down fine, booted up fine this morning--but not after lunch, etc.
Yep now it sounds like you’re having the same symptoms as the rest of us- unfortunately :/
 

cold_steel

Gawd
Joined
Jun 27, 2004
Messages
539
Hi!

I am glad that this thread exists now! Oh man, i wished it had exist only two weeks earlier, it would have saved me so much trouble, work, testing and frustration...

I have the exact same issue like in the opening post mentioned with the Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master combined with a 3600X. It rans 2 evenings, everything necessary was just installed and ready to go. On the next evening, nothing happend. The PC was completely dead. It droves me crazy. I tested everything although everything is new and there were no issues before. The only thing i did not do was to remove the CMOS-battery, because the board has a backup-BIOS and a CLEAR-CMOS-button and so, there was no logic for me in removing the battery...

The following 5 1/2 (!) weeks the board was in repair at Gigabyte. It came back with some scratches at the VRM-Coolers and some bent fins, i thought they have fixed something there. But, the system rans without issues completely fine again... For 6 weeks. On Sunday evening, after the PC was shut down for approx. 2 h or so it did not power on. Again. The same issue occurred again! In repair for five and a half week to function for six weeks. Wow! What is this???

The hint with the CMOS-battery-removal worked for me. The PC is alive again. But, this can not be the solution! I have a system with a custom water cooling loop, vertical GPU-mount, ... I can not remove the CMOS-battery every now and then!

I hope there will be a fix for this issue. A new BIOS perhaps, that would be great.


Thank you for this thread, cold_steel! <3
Eesh- I think it’s annoying to need to remove just my standard air cooled 1080ti occasionally to get to the battery (only have had to do it twice so far, but it’s “due” any day now haha.) I cant imagine being in a situation with hard line water cooling to deal with.
Id either wire up a remote battery holder (crap band aid, not a real solution) or get a different board in that case. Ridiculous.
 

x509

2[H]4U
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
2,219
I cannot wrap my head around what sort of a bios problem might cause a mboard to brick itself temporarily like this--until a CMOS battery reset via popping out the battery!
I have an ASUS ROG X570 Strix-E with 3900X that worked fine for a week, and then it didn't. Fans would spin for about 1 second and then stop. :coffee: No POST. :banghead: Having read some of the Aorus threads here, I took out the CMOS battery and left it out overnight, before I rebuilt my system, step by step. That was over two weeks ago, and so far, all good. I should add that when I first powered up this board, I flashed the BIOS to the most recent version. :)
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
I have an ASUS ROG X570 Strix-E with 3900X that worked fine for a week, and then it didn't. Fans would spin for about 1 second and then stop. :coffee: No POST. :banghead: Having read some of the Aorus threads here, I took out the CMOS battery and left it out overnight, before I rebuilt my system, step by step. That was over two weeks ago, and so far, all good. I should add that when I first powered up this board, I flashed the BIOS to the most recent version. :)
Thanks for the info! My system did boot this a.m., and after I shut down last night, the standby mobo light was on--breathed a sigh of relief. Sounds good--I'm hoping this was a temporary glitch. We'll see.
 
Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
4
Thanks for the info! My system did boot this a.m., and after I shut down last night, the standby mobo light was on--breathed a sigh of relief. Sounds good--I'm hoping this was a temporary glitch. We'll see.
Waltc, that's sad news that you have the same issue as some of us, on the plus side we know what it isn't...
It isn't power strip, CMOS battery being discharged or battery fault as we have put new batteries in.
Not convinced on the XMP settings as we still had the fault without it.
Can you verify what Bios ver you are currently running please.
Tempted to to try F12* but not sure that is any different.
One thing my son thought was it may be cyclic due to the number of power cycles, so he tried to emulate a couple of weeks use in one back-to-back session ie boot-pwr-off, boot-pwr-off etc. But the fault never occurred?
He's reluctant to RMA as the turn around is so long and I doubt they'll find fault plus without his gaming during this lock down he'll have to chat to us😂
 

Azrak

Gawd
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
983
My guess is that a low level embedded management engine/chip/hardware built into the motherboard is
a) writing bad data to NVRAM; or
b) writing bad data to some other hardware address that stores data in memory somewhere that requires CMOS battery power to retain; or
c) crashing or locking up due to a firmware bug or power problem (maybe a capacitor is too small/improperly specced?)
during the system shutdown/poweroff sequence that results in said management engine/chip/hardware failing to operate and allow any power commands to function from that moment on, until the CMOS battery is removed and put back in.

Keep in mind today's motherboards have very smart UEFI BIOS functionality built into them where they can tell the motherboard to power off for 5 seconds, then turn back on in order to do things like memory training, voltage setting modifications, and CPU reconfiguration. This "turn off and back on again" functionality has to be done by some very low level power management chips/firmware, below the BIOS because once power is turned off, the BIOS isn't running. If that management chip fails to function, well, here you are. Wake-on-LAN comes to mind as well.

We have a post in this thread where someone mentioned that they saw the standby power indicator LED light on the MB turn OFF after they shut down their system and they knew right then that the system would not boot again and they were correct. They had to remove the CMOS battery to get it working again.
Removing the CMOS battery clears all NVRAM (including the bad data) and so the low-level system firmware starts up successfully, giving you the power indicator light and the ability to turn the system on again.
 

Falkentyne

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 19, 2000
Messages
1,678
So this bug happens on BOTH Asus and Gigabyte boards, then? So it isn't a Gigabyte BIOS bug? Then it's a flaw in the ME or AGESA, +5vsb, or whatever its called?
 

x509

2[H]4U
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
2,219
So this bug happens on BOTH Asus and Gigabyte boards, then? So it isn't a Gigabyte BIOS bug? Then it's a flaw in the ME or AGESA, +5vsb, or whatever its called?
Yeah, and I'm the guy who did post #102. Well not ten minutes ago, my system suddenly crashed. :mad: Fortunately it did reboot and I ran chkdsk against all my drives. Last time this happened, when I tried to turn on the system, the fans would spin for maybe 2 seconds, then stop.Now I'm regretting my AMD purchase. But I can't just tell my wife, "Gee honey, I made a mistake and I need to spend another $700-900 on another motherboard and CPU." That won't work.
 

nick2123

n00b
Joined
May 8, 2020
Messages
2
Hi, just joined to say thanks to cold_steel for the initial post:

Having the same problem here. It's a shame that willing to pay extra for better quality hoping to have less problems you end up in this situation.

My specs here:
Aorus X570 Master
Ryzen 3700x
Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4
G.Skill Trident Z RGB (AMD) DDR4 3600 PC4-28800 16GB 2x8GB CL18
Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4
Corsair RM750 750W 80 Plus Gold Full Modular
MSI AMD Radeon RX 550 4GT Low Profile OC 4GB GDDR5
Also using a 900VA UPS.
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
....

We have a post in this thread where someone mentioned that they saw the standby power indicator LED light on the MB turn OFF after they shut down their system and they knew right then that the system would not boot again and they were correct. They had to remove the CMOS battery to get it working again.
Removing the CMOS battery clears all NVRAM (including the bad data) and so the low-level system firmware starts up successfully, giving you the power indicator light and the ability to turn the system on again.

Sounds like a very likely explanation. I had thought that clearing CMOS (without battery removal) would have reset NVRAM, as well. Evidently not. What I cannot figure is the first eight months of flawless operation, even with the old/defective power strip--with the 3600X.

Problems with cold-boot failures started just three days after installing the 3900X--I had of course reset CMOS more than once after the 3900X installation, and with the cold-boot problem the system was often resetting it for me whether I liked it or not. The battery was being drained at cold boot and so the bios settings were lost regularly, but only at cold-boot, and I also saw this reflected in that the system clock was often incorrect. Pulling the battery, replacing the battery, even, failed to completely stop the cold-boot failures due to loss of CMOS settings--system would cold-boot properly for 3-4 days before the cold-boot loss-of-CMOS would reoccur. But all of that ended immediately when I replaced the old/faulty power strip. Those cold-boot, loss of CMOS settings, battery draining problems have not reoccurred to date!

Then came the power-down "bricking" and subsequent battery pull the other day, as related above. First and last time, I hope! As you mentioned, the battery pull clears the NVRAM, and upon reassembly the system has functioned flawlessly, so far. I'm hoping that when I did the battery pull that corrected the "bricking" problem, that the last of the bad NVRAM data has been successfully flushed!

--Another detail that I wanted to add as I thought about it--I'd been doing a lot ram swapping between two sets of ram I have--Patriot 4133MHz and a Patriot 3733MHz set (2x8GB ea)--so now I'm wondering if some bad/jumbled NVRAM data had been written during the couple of days I was testing each set.

Anyway, due to the 8 months of flawless operation of the mboard with my 3600X, I have expectations that things will work properly from now on. Fingers crossed.
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
Yeah, and I'm the guy who did post #102. Well not ten minutes ago, my system suddenly crashed. :mad: Fortunately it did reboot and I ran chkdsk against all my drives. Last time this happened, when I tried to turn on the system, the fans would spin for maybe 2 seconds, then stop.Now I'm regretting my AMD purchase. But I can't just tell my wife, "Gee honey, I made a mistake and I need to spend another $700-900 on another motherboard and CPU." That won't work.

I'm skeptical of this being an "AMD problem". For one thing, when I researched the cold-boot problem, I was surprised to see how many Intel systems had been reported having cold-boot failures of various kinds--I think the earliest Intel post I saw was dated 2013. Second, I'd used AMD systems for many years and had never seen this problem even once. Best of luck--hope it clears up for you--as I hope it clears up for myself!
 

x509

2[H]4U
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
2,219
I'm skeptical of this being an "AMD problem". For one thing, when I researched the cold-boot problem, I was surprised to see how many Intel systems had been reported having cold-boot failures of various kinds--I think the earliest Intel post I saw was dated 2013. Second, I'd used AMD systems for many years and had never seen this problem even once. Best of luck--hope it clears up for you--as I hope it clears up for myself!
To be clear, my problem is not cold boot, but a sudden shutdown while the system is in operation.
 

vegeta535

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
5,053
Seems I have been very lucky with my x570 master. Had it from near launch with a 3950x. I had some boot issues at first but they been fixed with BIOS updates. Haven't had one issue since the F11 bios.
 

USAF46270

n00b
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
49
I went 7 months without an issue then it happened again in April. Knock on wood, everything has been good since. I know there is a lot of headaches and bugs when it comes to new platforms and this Covid thing didn't help matters either. I am glad we have our little support group here to share possible solutions and to vent to. Thank you guys for all your input.
 

WaltC

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,128
To be clear, my problem is not cold boot, but a sudden shutdown while the system is in operation.

Well, that's one thing I haven't had thus far, thankfully. So far, so good since the battery pull. The last time I had an "reboot in the middle of a game" problem was a couple of years back--different system of course--that was caused by the CPU overheating under load. In that case, a new cooler solved the problem. That kind of thing sounds like a motherboard safety process of some kind is kicking in and shutting the system down. Hope you get it sorted!
 
Joined
May 10, 2020
Messages
2
QUESTION? Did any of you have this problem before Bios F11? I don't recall having this problem with any previous bios, but it has happened twice in the last 2 months. I'm willing to bet it's a bios issue.
 

cold_steel

Gawd
Joined
Jun 27, 2004
Messages
539
QUESTION? Did any of you have this problem before Bios F11? I don't recall having this problem with any previous bios, but it has happened twice in the last 2 months. I'm willing to bet it's a bios issue.
When I got my board F11 was the newest, and the only BIOS I’ve been on. The battery removal trick has been needed twice so far for me.
 

USAF46270

n00b
Joined
Apr 11, 2020
Messages
49
QUESTION? Did any of you have this problem before Bios F11? I don't recall having this problem with any previous bios, but it has happened twice in the last 2 months. I'm willing to bet it's a bios issue.
No, I didn't have any issues with previous BIOS versions. You may be on to something here.
 
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