Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master won't power on - (temporary) solution

HighPoint

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Jul 6, 2020
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Got my new DP1.4 cable yesterday--and aside from a markedly better display I've noticed (it's like the color red just jumps out of the monitor, suddenly, and text seems clearer in some cases--colors, details, all better), there's no difference. System is booting fine--no cold boot issues--as those cold-boot problems were solved long ago apparently as I outlined earlier in this thread, fortunately. Wanted to make this post to mark the date of the new cable installation, in case the soft brick happens again. So far so good--no problems. My goal of course is to eliminate all possible problem sources aside from the motherboard itself. The more I think about the soft brick, the cure being the total discharging of the system by removal of the CMOS battery for ~15 minutes or more, the more it seems exactly like a UL electrical circuit override that shuts everything off to protect the system. We'll see. I'll come back here if I soft brick again, and if I don't I'll come back and report that in a couple of months.

I'm also fairly sure that my Club3d DP 1.4 cable I bought last July was faulty--and the trickle voltage on the 20th pin from the monitor building up until the motherboard UL safety circuitry shuts the system down--makes sense...;) Yeah, OK...;) We'll have to see about that...

I want to give massive kudos for this thread, though. If I hadn't read that popping the CMOS battery restored what apparently was a completely dead x570 Aorus Master in this thread I would never have even thought to do that to cure the situation--at least temporarily!

I'll see you guys in a couple of months, either way! The fact that the official Display Port site as I linked in a post of mine above acknowledges bad DP cables that can cause booting issues are a known commodity, gives me some hope that this is the right course. Here's the link, again"

https://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

Here is a portion of the relevant text from the DP/Vesa article:

"As mentioned previously, it is important to avoid low quality DisplayPort cables to prevent unexpected video or audio problems, and sometimes even system power-up problems. Always buy cables from a reputable computer system or accessory brand. Or safer yet, buy a cable that is DisplayPort certified. DisplayPort certified cables are listed here.


Recently VESA has experienced quite a few complaints regarding troublesome DisplayPort operation that ended up being caused by improperly made DisplayPort cables. These “bad” DisplayPort cables are generally limited to non-DisplayPort certified cables, or off-brand cables. To further investigate this trend in the DisplayPort cable market, VESA purchased a number of non-certified, off-brand cables and found that an alarmingly high number of these were configured improperly and would likely not support all system configurations. None of these cables would have passed the DisplayPort certification test, moreover some of these cables could potentially damage a PC, laptop, or monitor. We have not seen problems with the cables supplied by major computer brands, or major computer accessory brands, nor have we seen any problems with any of the cables that have been DisplayPort certified."


Aside from the new cable (I am also using 1 Club3D DP 1.4 certified cable) did you change ANYTHING else? BIOS? any of that?
 

Spid360

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I think I might just tell the wife I've narrowed it to a faulty graphics card and replace it...........say about mid September hahaha :sneaky:

F30a is now showing for the X570 Aorus Elite so Im going to give that a try.
 

paisley

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Apr 22, 2020
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just to satisfy my curiosity how many people that have this issue are running a wired Corsair RGB keyboard or mouse?

This observation has me thinking.. I'm using a wired Ducky Shine 7 RGB keyboard. I recently (mid-June) purchased a UGREEN USB switch. I'm also externally powering this USB switch. I have four USB inputs (all populated keyboard, mouse, mic, audio dac) and two USB outputs (one to PC with x570 and one to a laptop).

I was having the x570 power on issue about once per month and once it happened within the same week. I have not had a single power issue since installing the USB switch between my Ducky RGB keyboard and PC. Coincidence? Maybe, however it seems a few others also have wired keyboard or mouse attached to their Gigabyte x570 Aorus Master.

FYI I'm running BIOS F11 with Arch Linux and it suspends to RAM on ~20mins idle, usually multiple times throughout the day and of course overnight.

My Full System Specs
 

Cogger

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Built a new PC 2 months ago. 570 Master. 3800XT.
After a couple of months with no issues. Had this problem.
Like everyone else thought my PSU had gone.
After finding this thread took battery out and put back in and fired straight up. Worried this will be an ongoing issue now. :(
 
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luckyguy40

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Disclaimer haven't read the link yet so maybe it's unrelated and only applies to RAM but I saw this on https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?119384-ROG-STRIX-B550-F-GAMING-issues.

"well today after the computer was in idle for most of the day, my computer powered off, i hit the power button , power would come on then shut off right away. I could only get it to come on if i removed the battery from the mother board and put it back in?"

"No it just shut down. Then tried to start it and it kept trying to start and wouldnt. MB light was on so it was getting power. I tried to to do the jumper things but same thing. I had to take the battery out and then it started no problem and enabled docp and running again."

Another power on issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/fxrnlj/asus_strix_x570e_doesnt_power_on/

Sounds similar? Is it just AMD having problems?
 
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Spid360

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Okay so a bit of an update.
F30a Hasn't fixed the issue for me it still requires multiple presses of the power button to switch the PC on. Every so often now after shut down my Corsair K70 keeps the visor effect going (even though the PC is off) then after 4 - 5 seconds it turns off accompanied by a loud pop from the speakers (connected to MB line out jack). This started about the 3rd or 4th shutdown after bios update.
Unfortunately the loud pop is always present now both on startup (as the lock screen appears) and at shutdown (few seconds after the PC appears to be off).
 

luckyguy40

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Okay so a bit of an update.
F30a Hasn't fixed the issue for me it still requires multiple presses of the power button to switch the PC on. Every so often now after shut down my Corsair K70 keeps the visor effect going (even though the PC is off) then after 4 - 5 seconds it turns off accompanied by a loud pop from the speakers (connected to MB line out jack). This started about the 3rd or 4th shutdown after bios update.
Unfortunately the loud pop is always present now both on startup (as the lock screen appears) and at shutdown (few seconds after the PC appears to be off).

Wait, I didn't understand, multiple presses of the power button? I thought our problem solution was only removing the battery?
 

Cogger

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Built a new PC 2 months ago. 570 Master. 3800XT.
After a couple of months with no issues. Had this problem.
Like everyone else thought my PSU had gone.
After finding this thread took battery out and put back in and fired straight up. Worried this will be an ongoing issue now. :(


AX1200i
32GB Corsair Dominator 3600
GTX1080TI
3800XT
Now running Biso F30a XMP ON - default bios apart from that
Windows sleep mode disabled.

Will see if I have the issue again...

Have opened support ticket with Gigabyte
 

Spid360

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Wait, I didn't understand, multiple presses of the power button? I thought our problem solution was only removing the battery?
Yeah I actually stumbled on this method out of rage. I was originally having to remove the Bios battery to get it to boot which is a real pain on a carbide 275r case (allen bolts) then one day when it didn't boot I just kept pressing the power button on the case (along with some foul language) and to my surprise it booted up. Now most of the time I just press the button 10-15 times with a second in between and it starts if not I just pop the Bios battery out for a few seconds.
 

luckyguy40

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Yeah I actually stumbled on this method out of rage. I was originally having to remove the Bios battery to get it to boot which is a real pain on a carbide 275r case (allen bolts) then one day when it didn't boot I just kept pressing the power button on the case (along with some foul language) and to my surprise it booted up. Now most of the time I just press the button 10-15 times with a second in between and it starts if not I just pop the Bios battery out for a few seconds.
Mmm interesting but I think I read somewhere that multiple presses of the power button could kill your hardware? I don't know, please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

Spid360

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Mmm interesting but I think I read somewhere that multiple presses of the power button could kill your hardware? I don't know, please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I think that may be referring to when a system is active and was also applied more pre SSD when we were dealing with spinning platters. Appreciate a boot stack can be corrupted but it could ultimately be corrected by a reinstall but a damaged platter is physical hardware damage. I integrate software and hardware for major automotive manufacturers at development stage and this was something we had to look into (sudden power off) as most of the systems we work on are really to a degree just a Linux (Tizen) mini PC. Of course transient spikes and load dumps could damage hardware but this is less likely with a quality PSU and most components have to meet an EMC spec that would test for those.
Just to clarify the PC is off and when I press the power button and nothing happens at all that's why I initially checked the switch with a DVM, it just stays in this totally off state but then out the blue theirs a click and up it fires during the presses.
 
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ghp

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... out the blue theirs a click and up it fires during the presses.
I'll be sure to try your system next time, as it happened today. Almost two months, since 13/7. If it doesn't work, I'll connect a couple of wires to the battery holder and install another one that I can reach without removing the GPU.
 

ghp

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HighPoint: "This was the first time since July 6th, so a little under 2 months"

Always 2 months?
built 10/9/19, returned 22/11, reinstalled 16/12, found battery solution on 26/2, repeat 9/5, repeat 13/7 (joined this thread), repeat 7/9. So, two months give or take.

Must be a capacitor somewhere. ;-)
 

luckyguy40

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built 10/9/19, returned 22/11, reinstalled 16/12, found battery solution on 26/2, repeat 9/5, repeat 13/7 (joined this thread), repeat 7/9. So, two months give or take.

Must be a capacitor somewhere. ;-)

I see, so sorry for my ignorance, but about the capacitor, do we need to get a new mb before it dies? or we can live with this "capacitor" thing forever just removing the battery without the mb dying long-term?
 

Morph3R

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Must be a capacitor somewhere. ;-)
Hmm, this makes me wonder if maybe the onboard audio has something to do with it?
This part of the mobo is "crowded" with capacitors.
Also as I recall someone mentioned that when the issue occurs, there is come buzzing/whining sound coming from the area "under the GPU".
I heard that also on my last issue occurrence...

My usage of integrated audio is somewhat unusual.
I have it enabled in BIOS and only one SPDIF (optical) connection is populated but rarely used.
99,5% of time I listen to audio trough my monitor (GPU/DP)
 
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ghp

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I see, so sorry for my ignorance, but about the capacitor, do we need to get a new mb before it dies? or we can live with this "capacitor" thing forever just removing the battery without the mb dying long-term?
Well, it dies, but Jesus had more trouble reviving Lazarus then we do with the Aorus. If it really dies, I hope it does so before my warranty runs out, then I can send it back. Now I can't, or I'm without MB for almost a month and all they do is pop the battery and hey presto (lento).
 

eugene86

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MB could start it's journey to Valhalla not alone -- there are so many much more expensive components: GPU, CPU, SSDs. When my X570 died, I firstly concerned about storage devices... It's better if MB dies while nothing is connected to it ;-)
 

ghp

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MB could start it's journey to Valhalla not alone -- there are so many much more expensive components: GPU, CPU, SSDs. When my X570 died, I firstly concerned about storage devices... It's better if MB dies while nothing is connected to it ;-)
Much better, indeed. Pray, tell me, how would one notice its demise?
 

Spid360

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I'll be sure to try your system next time, as it happened today. Almost two months, since 13/7. If it doesn't work, I'll connect a couple of wires to the battery holder and install another one that I can reach without removing the GPU.
Let me know how you get on, Im still getting the audio pop at shutdown and startup. I've got a new PSU to fit over the weekend (upgrade for new card not issue related) so I'm gonna drop the BIOS battery out the board while its open and start a fresh. I might even just reinstall all the MB drivers beforehand just as a matter of course.
 

Psylor

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This piece of $?@! of a !?@$32!@%&§8!.... $$Gigabyte$$ board... I had to calm down.... many not so nice words were tossed against the board and Gigabyte as the "NO POWER BUG" occurs to me again, last Sunday night. It is now the fourth time this has happend and in between the board was almost two months at the Gigabyte Service without a replacement or so, they stole literally my machine for this time and this without a repair/fix/solution, they did literally nothing!

Okay, concentration, back to objectivity, the last time it happend was June the 1st. Back then, after i got the machine back running, i flashed the BIOS to F12g -> F20a -> F20b -> F20 and besides that i updated every drivers, chipset, GPU, audio, etc. again... everything up to date. So, the machine was running on F20 for effectively ~2 months and 3 weeks before the next and now actual "NO POWER BUG" occurred. In this time period i almost thought this bug has been fixed. I have not switched to single bios mode and i did not deactivate the windows hybrid sleep mode, i only enabled ERP in the BIOS and XMP, which runs fine since F12g. I use almost all USB ports, also two internal ones and the USB 3.2 and USB-C 3.2 gen 2 connector for my front panel. Besides that, there are no spinning drives only a NVME M.2 SSD.

I still do not know what is causing this "NO POWER BUG" nor can i reproduce it. It still seems to occur totally random. That is highly frustrating. But, motivated by this thread, i investigate something after it happend. I took a video before popping out the battery of what happens when i try to switch the machine on. In advance i post the video description:

What happens after the "NO POWER BUG" occurs.
At the beginning of the video: PSU is switched on
1:20 - front panel power button is pressed (pressing the onboard power button results in the same behavior).

What you do not see and hear:
After switching the PSU on there is a constant buzz sound emitting from the area around the ESS SABRE DAC which sounds like an electric arc when, for example, big power transformers are switched on. Also, the white light on the ESS SABRE DAC is flickering and it slowly turns from white to violet-ish beginning at the top of the unit (over the time of 2-3 minutes).


BIOS settings:
ERP enabled
Onboard button lights off after shutdown.

Normal behavior after shutdown: All onboard (and peripheral) lights off. No "electric buzz"-sound or else.

Behavior when the "NO POWER BUG" occurs:
Onboard power button (at least) stays lit after regular shutdown.

Solution (the only reliable solution as yet):
Short removing and inserting back of the CR2032 battery. After this procedure the system powers on, boots and acts as if there was no issue (except specific BIOS settings, which are lost).

Sadly you cannot see the flickering and you cannot hear the "buzz"-sound properly although i tried to move my phone with the mic near the DAC. And for the rest of the story, you guys know how the board behaves. Anyways, here is the link:
Link to the video (Youtube)
 

Morph3R

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What you do not see and hear:
After switching the PSU on there is a constant buzz sound emitting from the area around the ESS SABRE DAC which sounds like an electric arc when, for example, big power transformers are switched on. Also, the white light on the ESS SABRE DAC is flickering and it slowly turns from white to violet-ish beginning at the top of the unit (over the time of 2-3 minutes).

Absolutely the same as it happens to me.
The buzz sound can be heard here.

Related, see my post on the link.

Psylor Do you use your onboard audio? Do you have it enabled in BIOS? Do you have anything "electrically conductive" connected to it (e.g. analog headphones on the FP, or active speakers connected to line-out on the back of the mobo etc)

Is the solution to our problems disconnection of the RGB LEDs on the audio section?
Or having always some analogue device connected to the audio (for example analogue 32 Ω headphones connected to FP output jack)
Or completely disabling the "fancy" onboard audio in BIOS?
 
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TheRavan

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Absolutely the same as it happens to me.
The buzz sound can be heard here.

Related, see my post on the link.

Psylor Do you use your onboard audio? Do you have it enabled in BIOS? Do you have anything "electrically conductive" connected to it (e.g. analog headphones on the FP, or active speakers connected to line-out on the back of the mobo etc)

Is the solution to our problems disconnection of the RGB LEDs on the audio section?
Or having always some analogue device connected to the audio (for example analogue 32 Ω headphones connected to FP output jack)
Or completely disabling the "fancy" onboard audio in BIOS?

I am so glad to see that many others are experiencing the same dead Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master problem. I have not tried the battery and CMOS reset yet. But resetting battery and CMOS is not a fix, it is short term options. Gigabyte needs to step up to the plate and take onwership of the issue. I have started the RMA process with gigabyte which i expect to me a nightmare.
My MB is SN192xxxxxx which from what i have read is from lot 1 production which lot 1 appears to have this issue. I am also running a Ryzen 9 3900X.
 

Madmax-90

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Hello,
I join you today in this galley with you ..
my moba just did it twice in a week ...
I don't even think about sending the card to gigabyte because I know that they will do nothing and would lose two months of using my pc,

however do you know if this problem happens more and more often over time? or is it always 1-2 months apart ?!


if someone ever finds the solution I hope they can share it with us!

thank you in advance !!
(sorry for my english i'm french)
 

Psylor

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Absolutely the same as it happens to me.
The buzz sound can be heard here.

Related, see my post on the link.

Psylor Do you use your onboard audio? Do you have it enabled in BIOS? Do you have anything "electrically conductive" connected to it (e.g. analog headphones on the FP, or active speakers connected to line-out on the back of the mobo etc)

Is the solution to our problems disconnection of the RGB LEDs on the audio section?
Or having always some analogue device connected to the audio (for example analogue 32 Ω headphones connected to FP output jack)
Or completely disabling the "fancy" onboard audio in BIOS?

Although i do not use it often (i mainly use an USB-Headphone) the onboard audio is enabled. I have an active 2.1 system connected to the line-out of the mobo. Before i popped out the battery i tested if the "buzz"-sound or the flickering light on the audio unit changes if i have plugged the 2.1 system in or not and also if something changes if all other peripheral devices (displays, desk light, etc) are disconnected from power. There was no change.
 

TheRavan

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I am so glad to see that many others are experiencing the same dead Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master problem. I have not tried the battery and CMOS reset yet. But resetting battery and CMOS is not a fix, it is short term options. Gigabyte needs to step up to the plate and take onwership of the issue. I have started the RMA process with gigabyte which i expect to me a nightmare.
My MB is SN192xxxxxx which from what i have read is from lot 1 production which lot 1 appears to have this issue. I am also running a Ryzen 9 3900X.

Started the RMA process. The MB should going out tomorrow 09/11/2020. What I learned with gigabyte is there two URLs to do a RMA. One under my products where I registered MB which is also where you have to provide proof of purchase. https://member.aorus.com/
The 2nd location is where you dont have to show any proof of purchase https://ggcs.gigabyte.com/. I rejected the 2nd location as i didn't want gigabyte to question if i owned the MB.

I will update as how well the RMA process is going. I will say that this will be the last gigabyte product i buy. EVGA was total helpful with the RMA for my power supply. It was so easy. They even prestaged my RMA under my email so when i did register my power supply much of the RMA was already filled out.
 
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Started the RMA process. The MB should going out tomorrow 09/11/2020. What I learned with gigabyte is there two URLs to do a RMA. One under my products where I registered MB which is also where you have to provide proof of purchase. https://member.aorus.com/
The 2nd location is where you dont have to show any proof of purchase https://ggcs.gigabyte.com/. I rejected the 2nd location as i didn't want gigabyte to question if i owned the MB.

I will update as how well the RMA process is going. I will say that this will be the last gigabyte product i buy. EVGA was total helpful with the RMA for my power supply. It was so easy. They even prestaged my RMA under my email so when i did register my power supply much of the RMA was already filled out.


Good luck! Someone from the Gigabyte forum had their mobo RMA'd and came back with the same problem. This is my last gigabyte board as well! Going with MSI this time!
 

TheRavan

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Started the RMA process. The MB should going out tomorrow 09/11/2020. What I learned with gigabyte is there two URLs to do a RMA. One under my products where I registered MB which is also where you have to provide proof of purchase. https://member.aorus.com/
The 2nd location is where you dont have to show any proof of purchase https://ggcs.gigabyte.com/. I rejected the 2nd location as i didn't want gigabyte to question if i owned the MB.

I will update as how well the RMA process is going. I will say that this will be the last gigabyte product i buy. EVGA was total helpful with the RMA for my power supply. It was so easy. They even prestaged my RMA under my email so when i did register my power supply much of the RMA was already filled out.

I want to share something else about gigabyte and the RMA process. They sent me a System Configuration form to fill so they know abit about my system. The form is way out of date. I am guessing that gigabyte is having money problems or they dont know how to create proper form that can be filled out. This form is meant to be printed out and hand written filled out.
As you can see the gigabyte doesn't even know that WIndows 10 is the most current desktop OS or what the processors are.


In order for us to provide better service, please fill out the entire form. Thank you.
SYSTEM CONFIGURATION
Customer Name Phone#:
E-Mail Address
Motherboard model
BIOS Version Version:


CPU Brand Name: Intel AMD Others:
P4 478  Core2 Duo, Core2 Quad 775 I7 1366 pins I5 1156 pins Other
Speed: Cache Size:
Athlon II X2 Phenom X3 and X4 Other
Speed: Cache Size:

Memory Brand Name: Kingston Crucial Corsair Samsung Other
800mhz 1066mhz 1333mhz Other
If other, please list manufacturer/model number:

VGA Brand Name:
Model Driver Version

Operating System:
XP 32bits XP 64bits Win Server2003/2008 Vista 32bits
Vista 64bits Windows 7 32bits Windows 7 64bits Other
If other, please list the OS type:

Hard Drives:
SCSI PATA(EIDE) SATA Maxtor WD Seagate Other
If other, please list manufacturer/model:

Power Supply:
400Watts 450Watts 650watts 1200watts Other
If other, please list manufacturer/model:

Other Accessory: Please list manufacturer/model
CD-ROM
DVD-ROM
CD-RW
DVD-RW
Others

Problem description:
 

Spartacus

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Messages
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LOL.... still showing P4 CPUs and Vista! :ROFLMAO:

Some companies put very little money into their customer support.
They just don't care about individual customers, they think there's a million more to replace the few they lose.

They don't understand that approach will not work forever. It will catch up to them over time.

.
 

Illined

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Sep 13, 2020
Messages
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Hello everyone, new here and registered specifically for this issue!

Bought my X570 Master July 2019. Had this issue for the first time in January 2020. Disassembled my entire build, tried a new PSU, to no avail. Sent it back to the retailer and bought a back-up el-cheapo Asrock (which I have resold already). Board was sent back with the note that a simple CMOS-battery removal had fixed the issue.

I have since had this issue occur more and more frequently. The second time was about two months later. After that it was about a month later and now we're down to about every three weeks. Just today it happened again. Luckily for me I am using a vertical GPU mount, which means I don't have to remove the GPU.

I recommend anyone with this issue to at least use a different PCI-Ex16 slot for their GPU so you can more easily reach the battery.

Do we know if this issue persists with newer 1.1 or 1.2 revisions of the board? I am hopeless with this board. I hate having this issue, it's a real hassle. The alternative boards are always a compromise regarding features. The biggest issue for me, however, is that if I replace this board with a different one (different Brand) I am sat here with an expensive brick. Can't sell it second hand, can't send it back because they just pop the CMOS-battery out and back in before sending it back.

I am absolutely done with this shit. Tried everything, put way too much time into troubleshooting a system that should just be running properly. I took a huge gamble buying Gigabyte after having had shitty boards in the past. Should have sticked with MSI or Asus.

Edit: adding to this I have made a ticket with Gigabyte earlier today of which I fully expect to get no help at all. I am going to be upgrading my GPU and need a new case. I am buying the new case next week or the week after. Most likely will buy a board with it to not have the hassle again later when I decide I've had enough of this crappy board. At this point even a B450 seems like a better alternative.

Edit2: adding further on, I am going to be buying my next board off Amazon because if I have an issue, I can send it back to them and just get a refund. At least their customer service is decent.
 
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Illined

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Did you update your BIOS in those months?

Of course. F3, F5, F6, ... up to F30a now. None of these solve the issue, but obviously you already know this or you wouldn't be here. They delivered a board that is great on paper and that is also the only place it is great.
 

luckyguy40

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Of course. F3, F5, F6, ... up to F30a now. None of these solve the issue, but obviously you already know this or you wouldn't be here. They delivered a board that is great on paper and that is also the only place it is great.
What I meant is the opposite, if not upgrading bios, kept you free of problems for months.
 

Illined

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Ah no. I updated my BIOS each time a new one came out, even ran a lot of beta builds. So I definitely updated before the issues arose.
 

TheRavan

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I want to share something else about gigabyte and the RMA process. They sent me a System Configuration form to fill so they know abit about my system. The form is way out of date. I am guessing that gigabyte is having money problems or they dont know how to create proper form that can be filled out. This form is meant to be printed out and hand written filled out.
As you can see the gigabyte doesn't even know that WIndows 10 is the most current desktop OS or what the processors are.


In order for us to provide better service, please fill out the entire form. Thank you.
SYSTEM CONFIGURATION
Customer Name Phone#:
E-Mail Address
Motherboard model
BIOS Version Version:


CPU Brand Name: Intel AMD Others:
P4 478  Core2 Duo, Core2 Quad 775 I7 1366 pins I5 1156 pins Other
Speed: Cache Size:
Athlon II X2 Phenom X3 and X4 Other
Speed: Cache Size:

Memory Brand Name: Kingston Crucial Corsair Samsung Other
800mhz 1066mhz 1333mhz Other
If other, please list manufacturer/model number:

VGA Brand Name:
Model Driver Version

Operating System:
XP 32bits XP 64bits Win Server2003/2008 Vista 32bits
Vista 64bits Windows 7 32bits Windows 7 64bits Other
If other, please list the OS type:

Hard Drives:
SCSI PATA(EIDE) SATA Maxtor WD Seagate Other
If other, please list manufacturer/model:

Power Supply:
400Watts 450Watts 650watts 1200watts Other
If other, please list manufacturer/model:

Other Accessory: Please list manufacturer/model
CD-ROM
DVD-ROM
CD-RW
DVD-RW
Others

Problem description:
Is this problem only happening with AMD Ryzen 9 3900x?
 

eugene86

n00b
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Messages
21
Buyin
Do we know if this issue persists with newer 1.1 or 1.2 revisions of the board? I am hopeless with this board. I hate having this issue, it's a real hassle. The alternative boards are always a compromise regarding features. The biggest issue for me, however, is that if I replace this board with a different one (different Brand) I am sat here with an expensive brick. Can't sell it second hand, can't send it back because they just pop the CMOS-battery out and back in before sending it back.
Some guy experienced such issue her with 1.1 revision of the board -- do a search across the topic.
For me RMA process was pretty "fast" and straightforward -- Estonian Consumer Protection Board issued a statement that RMA process should take more than 30 days w/o a serious reason. I just returned (in person) my board to the shop, and after ~20 days my shop contacted me and told that their provider agreed to change the MB. of course I waited couple of weeks for shipment of new board after that. The shop recommended me to exchange the board to B550 and reimbursed the money difference.
During these 20 days I have considered the competitive products based on X570 chipset and decided keep away from them: MSI X570 boards have a problems with very hot VRM -- I heard rumors that one guy from MSI support in Moscow told about too many warranty cases because of it. Asus/Asrock boards have a very bad design of chipset cooling solution -- (look at breakdown photos) plastic "turbo" case around the small heater-- it means fan should always work to cool the chipset. After one year this fan will just break -- and there will be no possibilities to fix/replace it. Comparing to that Gigabyte X570 shitty boards have a good cold VRM and chipset cooler that actually is never rotating.
 
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