GIGABYTE AORUS FV43U 43 inch 4k 144 HDR1000 QLED monitor

Despite the issues discussed in this thread, I've ordered an FV43U that will arrive later this week. A price drop from €954 to €699 made it a no brainer, nothing else competes at that price point. Hopefully I can cope with the input lag, pixel response and pixel row interference. I currently have a 27" IPS monitor so it's going to be quite a change!

The alternatives I was considering were QN90A 50" (too big?) at €950 and QN90B 43" at €1500.
I could get two FV43Us for the price of a single 90B and still have €100 in my pocket.
 
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Despite the issues discussed in this thread,
It's a great screen. Don't be put off by stuff in this thread.

White text on black background looking funky can be dealt with by adjusting the monitors black equaliser settings - deep black turns more of a dark grey but you can read stuff.
Input lag - fine.
HDR is amazing on it. Best I've seen on any screen, £2000 TV's also included.
Local dimming isn't needed, goes pretty black for LCD
My genuine only complaint is the dropouts I get from the audio toslink to my DAC.

... 700 euros is a fantastic price. Where are they going for that price? UK are all £900ish.
 
Despite the issues discussed in this thread, I've ordered an FV43U that will arrive later this week. A price drop from €954 to €699 made it a no brainer, nothing else competes at that price point. Hopefully I can cope with the input lag, pixel response and pixel row interference. I currently have a 27" IPS monitor so it's going to be quite a change!

The alternatives I was considering were QN90A 50" (too big) for €950 or QN90B 43" for €1500.
I could get two of these FV43Us for the price of a single 90B and still have €100 in my pocket.

To illustrate what's about to happen here:
Current monitorFV43U
IPSVA
Contrast 1000:14000:1
No HDR (390 nits peak)HDR1000
No local dimmingLocal dimming
sRGB97% DCI-P3
27"43"
2560x14403840x2160
Matte anti-glareSemi-gloss
4ms (all transitions)~9ms average
Negligible inputlagRelatively high inputlag

I don't think they could be much more different.

I've used the FV43U for over a year and am really happy with it. Unless another 43" comes in with much better spec, (we're not getting the 43" Q90B in the US). 48"-50" is really a bit too big for desktop use.
 
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Fantastic price indeed! Two online retailers here (Netherlands) had it priced at €954 for the longest time, until yesterday when one of them lowered their price to 699, the other increased theirs to €1040 matching the price at other stores. The FV43U could possibly be going out of production. Just a theory of course, but that would explain it, with different stores handling it differently. A 43" is probably slow moving stock that takes up a lot of space, so perhaps one decided to dump their last stock while others increased their price as the monitor will become harder to get your hands on. Prices often increase when availability decreases. Several retailers that list the product no longer have it in stock.

Thanks for bolstering my faith in my choice, I'm somewhat anxious, yes, but I'm excited too. I have always favored speed over raw contrast etc and used IPS panels to that effect. I tried 3 VAs and returned all three, but my priorities have shifted.

The QN90B 43" will not be good bang for your buck at all until after the 2023 model arrives, at which point the price gets cut by a third. That's when you consider picking one up if you can get it where you live and want one in the first place. For now, don't even worry about it. It's still on its early adopters' price. It's pretty clear looking at current pricing of last year's QN90A (€950) now that the 90B has arrived (€1500). Same thing will happen next year, you can save 500-550 just by waiting a year. By that time there'll be fewer firmware issues too. Why pay the upcharge to be their guinea pig?

48"-50" is really a bit too big for desktop use.
I agree. I stuck rope to the wall with masking tape, forming two frames, 43" and 50" to get a feel for the sizes and viewing distance required for comfort. You just sense that they're in a totally different size class and the 50 is meant to be looked at from across the room with your butt on a couch. The 50" mockup started to feel manageable once I got at least 6ft 5" away from it. That's more than two desk depths away.
 
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Says who? I saw it available at a local electronic chain in NY for "special order". I believe you can also order directly from Samsung as well.

Wow! Something changed as the 43" was not there when the QN90B first shown up on the Samsung site but now shows a ship date of May 6th. Now I just need to find out if they nerfed it like the QN90A (43" only 60Hz). I know the Spec said 120 (up to 144) but they said the same thing on the QN90A initially. Hopefully Rtings will have their review up soon.
 
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Brand new to this forum. I picked up the FV43U a little over a month ago and Im loving it. The only problem Ive come across that is annoying me is that the optical out doesnt seem to pass any bitstream 5.1 (DD or DTS). Ive tried everything. I have the Logitech z906 5.1 system and I have the optical going into a toslink input on that. No matter what device I test, sending bitstream DD/DTS over HDMI into the monitor only sends stereo 2.0 out. Gigabyte doesnt even list the optical out feature in the manual or on the website. They wont resopnd to my support tickets after 2 weeks, the callback feature on the support line never actually calls me back. Im starting to think this feature is an afterthought to them. That or their shoddy firmware doesnt do anything to address this. Even cheap TVs these days can pass HDMI bitstream in through optical out. If anyone knows some secret to getting this to work natively, let me know. I really dont want to deal with an HDMI audio extractor since i dont think one exists that supports HDMI 2.1.
 
Says who? I saw it available at a local electronic chain in NY for "special order". I believe you can also order directly from Samsung as well.
Did some search on the QN90B, The 43" and 50" are not the same as the 55" and above. you only get Quantum HDR 24x (instead of 32x) and you're still on the 12bit processing vs 14bit which means you will not see the improved color gradients so it's just a slightly brighter 120Hz panel with maybe some software improvement over the QN90A. Might be a worthwhile replacement for my 75" Q90T later on though.
 
Brand new to this forum. I picked up the FV43U a little over a month ago and Im loving it. The only problem Ive come across that is annoying me is that the optical out doesnt seem to pass any bitstream 5.1 (DD or DTS). Ive tried everything. I have the Logitech z906 5.1 system and I have the optical going into a toslink input on that. No matter what device I test, sending bitstream DD/DTS over HDMI into the monitor only sends stereo 2.0 out. Gigabyte doesnt even list the optical out feature in the manual or on the website. They wont resopnd to my support tickets after 2 weeks, the callback feature on the support line never actually calls me back. Im starting to think this feature is an afterthought to them. That or their shoddy firmware doesnt do anything to address this. Even cheap TVs these days can pass HDMI bitstream in through optical out. If anyone knows some secret to getting this to work natively, let me know. I really dont want to deal with an HDMI audio extractor since i dont think one exists that supports HDMI 2.1.
with Z906 just go with Optical cable direct into your Motherboard or is it not possible?
I have the same speakers and DTS 5.1 working fine.
But have to mention that its also a problem of windows with the Realtek drivers i have to use modded Realtek drivers
 
My genuine only complaint is the dropouts I get from the audio toslink to my DAC.
I can't remember if it's the Realtek 4080 (I'm leaning that way) or 1120, but there's a realtek chip used on a lot of motherboards in recent times that randomly drops the audiostream, even digital output. If you're sending onboard mobo audio to your monitor and then to your DAC, the onboard audio may well be at fault, not the FV43U.
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...roblems-sound-cuts-out-with-loud-hiss.281940/
https://www.reddit.com/r/ASUS/comments/sf4tau/fixes_for_realtek_alc4080_sound_problems_on_asus/

EDIT: I don't know why I was thinking that because how would mobo audio to monitor then to toslink even work. Is the monitor getting the audio from the graphics card? Then the above does not apply.
EDIT2: I'm confused. What is your audio chain exactly? Since when do monitors have toslink? And is the monitor being used as the final output device or as a passthrough? ("audio toslink to my DAC" suggests the latter)
EDIT3: Found this earlier post:
The line out on the FV43U is an optical combo port. You'll need a 3.5mm to toshlink optical cable.

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Tos...ywords=3.5mm+to+toslink&qid=1630422338&sr=8-4

Read this posts. It's already working.

https://hardforum.com/threads/gigab...-hdr1000-qled-monitor.2009247/post-1045122281
Oh... so it's : nvidia's integrated audio ---> FV43U ---> DAC ---> speakers?
 
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Oh... so it's : nvidia's integrated audio ---> FV43U ---> DAC ---> speakers?

Happens with both the PS5 and a RTX3090 via HDMI into the FV43U. Every 30-45 seconds there's a .5 second silence via the toslink. Monitor speakers work fine.
PS5/3090 HDMI -> FV43U toslink -> Prism Callia DAC.
F05 , for the short time I had it installed didn't have this issue. F04 and F06 both have this issue.

I've got around it now. PS5 goes into some USB-Toslink converter for the DAC and my PC goes into USB input of the DAC. Works fine as the DAC has auto input switching.
 
Am I the only one seeing this grey background between characters of selected or mouse-overed filenames?
Only at 144Hz, it's fine at 120Hz, and it only happens outside of an imaginary center column about a quarter of the panel in width.
IMG_20220417_134006.jpg

I'm using an excellent Club3D DP 1.4 HBR3 cable rated for 32.4Gb that served me well thus far, G7 2560x1440@240 included before I returned that display.
So I doubt it's the cable....
 
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Am I the only one seeing this grey background between characters of selected or mouse-overed filenames?
Only at 144Hz, it's fine at 120Hz, and it only happens outside of an imaginary center column about a quarter of the panel in width.
View attachment 464668
I'm using an excellent Club3D DP 1.4 HBR3 cable rated for 32.4Gb that served me well thus far, G7 2560x1440@240 included before I returned that display.
So I doubt it's the cable....
Yes for me too with DP on 144hz with 120hz as you said its fine

Did you test it with HDMI 2.1?

Edit :
i checked with HDMI 2.1 and its the same with 144hz.
120hz seems also fine but i am at F04 maybe the F06 is fixing it?

i havent checked when switching from RGB to Ycbcr but i think this is a kind of DSC when using 144hz
 
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Edit :
i checked with HDMI 2.1 and its the same with 144hz.
120hz seems also fine but i am at F04 maybe the F06 is fixing it?

i havent checked when switching from RGB to Ycbcr but i think this is a kind of DSC when using 144hz
Thanks for testing it with HDMI. I am on F06, so firmware does not fix it.
I tried DP Ycbcr 4:4:4, didn't make any difference either.
Even the resolution doesn't matter, it does it even at 2560x1440 unscaled at 144Hz.
So I conclude that only reducing the refresh rate to 120Hz fixes it.

Which is a bit of a bummer because most games will automatically use the same Hz that your OS is using, especially when the game uses the same (4k) resolution as the desktop. So to run games at 144Hz you have to change the refresh rate to 144 before launching the game. Especially with an nvidia card like I have because the drivers don't let you select a refresh rate per game. Why nvidia still haven't allowed for that in nvcp is beyond me.
 
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I don't see this issue using DP at 144 but i have 125% scaling turned on for windows. wonder if that makes a difference it certainly does for the pixel interference issues mentioned.
Edit: don't see this at 100% scaling either
 
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That's weird. The issue never shows up right in the middle though, the selected file needs to be off to the side a bit. It's there on mine even at 150% scaling.

Also shows up in application menus like these:
1650317217892.png
(screenshot for quick testing, not a photo to show the issue, which is very similar to the metro exodus filename shared a few posts back)

None of the OSD settings seem to affect it. Neither does selected color depth in nvcp. No difference between low or high on the panel.

I don't see this issue using DP at 144 but i have 125% scaling turned on for windows. wonder if that makes a difference it certainly does for the pixel interference issues mentioned.
Edit: don't see this at 100% scaling either
What firmware version? Did you check outside the horizontal middle?
 
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That's weird. The issue never shows up right in the middle though, the selected file needs to be off to the side a bit. It's there on mine even at 150% scaling.

Also shows up in application menus:
View attachment 465061

None of the OSD settings seem to affect it. Neither does selected color depth in nvcp. No difference between low or high on the panel.


What firmware version? Did you check outside the horizontal middle?
i am at 175% scaling, will try with different scaling values
 
... 700 euros is a fantastic price. Where are they going for that price?
Correction: where were they going for that price - it was €699 for only 7 days. Glad I got one then. Turns out I was right: it was indeed some of their last stock, they no longer have the product listed on their website. Best price in the country is now €999. I saved a whopping 300 on it!

I recently similarly 'bought the dip' to get an accompanying 3080 at a lower price. If only I could've done the same with the crypto I used to have we wouldn't be having this conversation. :D

Anyone find the optimal settings for text yet?
These settings are what I arrived at for a custom picture mode for reading. Let me know if you have improvements to suggest.
Brightness 40
Contrast 46
Color Vibrance 9 (optional: 8)
Sharpness 6 (optional: 5)
Gamma 2.2
Low Blue Light 1
Local Dimming Off
DCR Off
Color Space Auto
Color Temp Normal
Super Resolution 0
Black Equalizer 11-12 to help with gray text on black / pixel row interference. <--- EDIT: added this line

i am at 175% scaling, will try with different scaling values
Scaling value is irrelevant to that issue isn't it?
 
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I used UFO test and games to determine optimal OD (overdrive) settings at various refresh rates.

HzOptimal OD SettingOD SettingResult
60Off (bad either way)PQX no black smear, lots of overshoot. More jarring than Off.
OffX lots of black smear, no overshoot. Much worse motion clarity/tracking than PQ.
85PQ (Picture Quality)PQ very mild black smear, but some inverse ghosting a.k.a. overshoot
Usable when you can't get 100 or 110 fps.
100PQPQ mild black smear, no noticeable overshoot
BalanceX almost no black smear, but obvious overshoot. Balance applies too much voltage for 100Hz.
110BalanceBalance mild black smear (a tiny bit more than 100Hz@PQ), no noticeable overshoot.
10ms avg pixel response panel. 110Hz refreshes every 9ms. To limit dark smearing overdrive
must be increased to Balanced, which at 110Hz luckily doesn't cause noticeable overshoot.
120BalanceBalanceX moderate black smear
Usable, but 110 is better. "Balance" overdrive can only do so much.
Increasing OD to Speed is pointless at any refresh rate: adds an insane amount of overshoot.
144BalanceBalanceX high black smear

The FV43U's usable refresh range is 85-110Hz.
The dark pixel response is too slow for anything above 110Hz. It can keep up at 100Hz, 110Hz is the upper limit.

For G-sync: Cap the fps at 100 and set the OS to 110Hz. Or cap fps at 110 and set the OS to 120Hz.
If you also watch movies on your FV43U, 120Hz will play them smoother than 110 because 120 is divisible by 30.
Make sure your fps doesn't drop below the cap or you will get not only the usual microstutter but overshoot as well.
Create a custom resolution mode in graphics driver software, 3840x2160 @ 110Hz as it won't exist by default, you'll need it for v-sync gaming.
Alternatively when you need to play a game in v-sync mode you can just use 100Hz and change the OD to PQ (because 100Hz requires PQ).
The risk there is that you forget to change the OD setting back to Balance afterwards, so I recommend creating the 110Hz resolution mode.
That way you can leave the OD setting on Balance.

Things that worsen dark smearing:
  • Increasing "Sharpness" in monitor's menu: huge negative effect, especially on foliage and tussock grass.
    Makes it seem like the scene flickers: darker when the (mouse)view moves and back to normal when it stops.
  • Super Resolution in monitor menu above 0 also contributes to this. It's a sharpening effect.
  • Using a refresh rate much higher than 100.
Things that improve dark smearing:
  • Enabling anti-aliasing
  • Enabling DLSS
  • Upscaling from lower resolution.

    These things all smooth over the most challenging pixel patterns.
 
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i am wondering if this two cases will give the same outcome :

Monitor to 144hz and FPS cap to 120fps

Monitor to 120hz and FPS cap to 117fps (because of Freesync/Gsync)

i am meaning not the 3fps difference i am wondering if there is a difference in capping more fps or less in terms of smoothness
 
Very rare exceptions playing esports for money apply where people care only about lowest possible input delay and not about smoothness, but gaming should generally be done in g-sync mode. Or v-sync because those are the only 2 ways to get 100% smoothness. V-sync adds unnecessary inputlag, while g-sync only adds the necessary lag to not display frames before they are finished, so g-sync is the way to go. With that out of the way, I will try to answer your question.

I'm asssuming you are talking g-sync in both cases because not using it doesn't make any sense in the context of shooting for smoothness which is what you say you want.

Those 2 examples, assuming g-sync in both, would give the same result because the monitor's refresh will drop to match the fps. One will run at 117Hz 117fps, the other at 120Hz 120 fps.

For g-sync you should cap the fps at the low end of what your GPU is capable of, preferably to the lowest fps you're expecting to get in a play session to make sure frametimes stay consistent: the time it takes for each frame to be rendered. A GPU at 100% load can't produce stable frametimes. Varying frametimes cause microstutter, even with g-sync. But you also don't want to set the cap unnecessarily low because higher is better for crisp and smooth motion, at least up to the point where the monitor's pixel response can't keep up and starts to annoy you. On the vast majority of monitors faster looks better. So if my GPU can stay above 130 fps 99% of the time in game XYZ I'm going to use g-sync while capping the fps at 130 to make sure I get a consistent number of frames each second without dropping below that and GPU load stays under 100% so that it doesn't have to struggle. If it has to struggle, frametimes between frames will vary. I'm not capping it at 100 in this example, that would be unnecessarily low because 1) it's not the end of the world if it does drop under the cap once or twice, and 2) higher Hz/fps is better. Unless I want to save power, noise, heat, or my monitor is too slow pixel response and can't keep up and its smearing is annoying me, I'm going to set the cap relatively high. What Hz the montor is capable of is irrelevant as long as it can do at least 130 for this example: because of g-sync it needs to be capable of at least the Hz that matches the fps limit set. If you set the monitor's refresh rate in WIndows lower than the fps cap, g-sync won't work.

Without g-sync, "Monitor to 144hz and FPS cap to 120fps" would microstutter a lot, with screen tearing.
With V-sync you'd set the Hz to 120 or 100, whichever the GPU can hit consistently.
In both cases you end up with the Hz matching the fps, which is how it should be.

Unless you are running 60fps or something because a game forces a 60 fps cap on you, and you want to take advantage of better pixel response from the monitor at 120Hz with the following v-sync type selected: "half the refresh rate" or w/e nvidia calls it exactly. That way you can run a game at 60fps while still having 120Hz. That's pretty much the only time that Hz and game fps should be different from one another.

EDIT: this all may sound off-topic and maybe it is, but in order to judge a monitor's motion performance and get the most out of it, it helps to know what you're doing.

EDIT:
The FV43U's usable refresh range is 85-110Hz. See post #1,379.
 
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I used UFO test and games to determine optimal OD (overdrive) settings at various refresh rates.

HzOptimal OD SettingOD SettingResult
60Off (bad either way)PQX no black smear, lots of overshoot. More jarring than Off.
OffX lots of black smear, no overshoot. Much worse motion clarity/tracking than PQ.
85PQ (Picture Quality)PQ very mild black smear, but some inverse ghosting a.k.a. overshoot
Usable when you can't get 100 or 110 fps.
100PQPQ mild black smear, no noticeable overshoot
BalanceX almost no black smear, but obvious overshoot. Balance applies too much voltage for 100Hz.
110BalanceBalance mild black smear (a tiny bit more than 100Hz@PQ), no noticeable overshoot.
10ms avg pixel response panel. 110Hz refreshes every 9ms. To limit dark smearing overdrive
must be increased to Balanced, which at 110Hz luckily doesn't cause noticeable overshoot.
120BalanceBalanceX moderate black smear
Usable, but 110 is better. "Balance" overdrive can only do so much.
Increasing OD to Speed is pointless at any refresh rate: adds an insane amount of overshoot.
144BalanceBalanceX high black smear

The FV43U's usable refresh range is 85-110Hz.
The dark pixel response is too slow for anything above 110Hz. It can keep up at 100Hz, 110Hz is the upper limit.

For G-sync: Cap the fps at 100 and set the OS to 110Hz. Or cap fps at 110 and set the OS to 120Hz.
If you also watch movies on your FV43U, 120Hz will play them smoother than 110 because 120 is divisible by 30.
Make sure your fps doesn't drop below the cap or you will get not only the usual microstutter but overshoot as well.
Create a custom resolution mode in graphics driver software, 3840x2160 @ 110Hz as it won't exist by default, you'll need it for v-sync gaming.
Alternatively when you need to play a game in v-sync mode you can just use 100Hz and change the OD to PQ (because 100Hz requires PQ).
The risk there is that you forget to change the OD setting back to Balance afterwards, so I recommend creating the 110Hz resolution mode.
That way you can leave the OD setting on Balance.

Things that worsen dark smearing:
  • Increasing "Sharpness" in monitor's menu: huge negative effect, especially on foliage and tussock grass.
    Makes it seem like the scene flickers: darker when the (mouse)view moves and back to normal when it stops.
  • Super Resolution in monitor menu above 0 also contributes to this. It's a sharpening effect.
  • Using a refresh rate much higher than 100.
Things that improve dark smearing:
  • Enabling anti-aliasing
  • Enabling DLSS
  • Upscaling from lower resolution.

    These things all smooth over the most challenging pixel patterns.
so you recommend setting sharpness to 0 in monitor OSD?
As you said, Sharpening at default (5) is in most games really bad for grass/foliage but in Windows Text clarity is Sharpening 5 better but i hate it to change it everytime
 
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It really depends on the game, what AA options you have available, if you want to use those or not, and how blurry or not they are. I only just figured this out and I've had the panel for only a week now so I can't give you a recommentation on this. Other than, it's generally not a good idea to first blur an image to then try and recover lost detail with sharpening because it doesn't work - lost detail remains lost, so for best results you probably want AA that doesn't blur too much, in combination with subtle sharpening. You'll probably find there's not much difference in the smearing between 0 and sharpening 2 or 3, sometimes you can get away with 5 or 6, just gotta find the sweet spot for the game in question. Some games are sharper than others. I like "super resolution"=1 in most games so I'll enable that too if I can get away with it.

The best settings for gaming conflict with what this monitor needs for optimal text clarity and obviously a subdued calmer look is preferable for long reading sessions, so I dedicated a custom profile to just text / reading. When I start a game I switch profiles. Bit of a pain but much quicker than changing all the individual settings. I've only had it here for a week so it may or may not change in the future, but that's where I'm at.

Don't use contrast higher than 53, you lose detail in highlights at 54+. For games I have it on 53, for text / longer OS sessions I like it at 46.
 
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Am I the only one seeing this grey background between characters of selected or mouse-overed filenames?
Only at 144Hz, it's fine at 120Hz, and it only happens outside of an imaginary center column about a quarter of the panel in width.
View attachment 464668
I'm using an excellent Club3D DP 1.4 HBR3 cable rated for 32.4Gb that served me well thus far, G7 2560x1440@240 included before I returned that display.
So I doubt it's the cable....
This issue for me was fixed when i updated to F05 (from F04) a while back. Nothing changed with my setup and settings the firmware just appeared to fix it.

Now running F06 and its still a non issue.

Not sure what to suggest really.
 
Unless the process of updating the firmware entailed something that fixed it rather than the firmware itself fixing it, the only thing I can think of is that I went straight from F02 to F06 and you did not. New firmware for hardware replaces previous firmware rather than patching it, so skipping versions shouldn't be a factor.

Very odd. Are you sure every single setting remained the same? Did you leave OSD Sidekick installed both when you still had the issue and now that you don't? If not, sidekick or the stuff that comes with it might have something to do with it. Did you change anything about cables, ports used, or graphics card and its settings around the time you updated to F05?
 
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Unless the process of updating the firmware entailed something that fixed it rather than the firmware itself fixing it, the only thing I can think of is that I went straight from F02 to F06 and you did not. New firmware for hardware replaces previous firmware rather than patching it, so skipping versions shouldn't be a factor.

Very odd. Are you sure every single setting remained the same? Did you leave OSD Sidekick installed both when you still had the issue and now that you don't? If not, sidekick or the stuff that comes with it might have something to do with it. Did you change anything about cables, ports used, or graphics card and its settings around the time you updated to F05?
updated from F04 to F06 and the problem is still there with 144hz vs 120hz
 
Unless the process of updating the firmware entailed something that fixed it rather than the firmware itself fixing it, the only thing I can think of is that I went straight from F02 to F06 and you did not. New firmware for hardware replaces previous firmware rather than patching it, so skipping versions shouldn't be a factor.

Very odd. Are you sure every single setting remained the same? Did you leave OSD Sidekick installed both when you still had the issue and now that you don't? If not, sidekick or the stuff that comes with it might have something to do with it. Did you change anything about cables, ports used, or graphics card and its settings around the time you updated toH
Just really had super close look and it is in fact there - so sorry its not completely gone. Your picture seems worse than what i am experiencing though, it's very hard to notice otherwise.

Bellow is the worse setting (SDR - standard) and the worse location i could find for it.

I only tested at 144hz 4k

Like i said before this was improved dramatically after f04. Pretty sure i mentioned it here a while back.

Not sure what would cause one to be worse than another otherwise.

IMG_20220423_213702.jpg
IMG_20220423_213748.jpg
 
I just noticed it can't display a 3840x1600 signal. It'll display a 3840x1600 desktop, that's because the GPU sends a 4K signal with black bars included. But when a game sets a 3840x1600 exclusive fullscreen mode, the monitor instead of adding the missing black bars, simply goes black and the display signal is lost. A reddit post written 7 months ago says:

This was actually working perfectly for me to run games at ultrawide 3840x1600 (with the black borders) and I would do it regularly for First Person Shooter games - to make them immersive and increase fps a bit.
But then all of a sudden - as of this week - I can't run custom resolutions by means of adding them to Nvidia Control Panel. When I select 3840x1600, the screen simply goes black and I lose my display signal. The same method works just fine when trying to run ultrawide on my other 1440p monitor, however.
:cry: This is really bad if it can't be fixed because the inverse ghosting below 85Hz is very strong, so you need to be able to lower the resolution to increase fps in certain titles, to keep the variable refresh rate up. Going straight to 2560x1440 is fps overkill, a waste.

I also noticed that for some reason a 3840x1600 desktop (=a 4K signal with black bars) cannot do HDR at 144Hz, only at 120Hz max, even though the monitor CAN do HDR at 144Hz at 4K. Makes no sense.

I used CRU to add to the Windows registry's information about the monitor's EDID the resolutions that I've also added in NVCP because otherwise HDR doesn't work in any of them. HDR works only in resolutions that by Windows are considered part of the monitor's EDID information that Windows stores in the registry. I still can't get the monitor to display a true 3840x1600 signal in the first place though.

Not sure what would cause one to be worse than another otherwise.
Underscores in filenames, 100% scaling and a smartphone camera that turns the greys a reddish hue.

EDIT: I decided to test 3840x1600 in Divinity Original Sin: Enhanced Edition and it works in that. That game offers 3 options, called:
- Fullscreen
- Fake fullscreen
- Windowed

It works in "Fullscreen" mode. Didn't work in Shadow of the Tomb Raider so I don't know what's going on with that game.
 
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My screen with underscores is fine when zoomed on white background. Are you using DP or HDMI 2.1? I'm using HDMI , like I said I found DP a bit soft and weird with this monitor. Any blue on that image is due to the refresh rates of the camera and monitor and not what I see.

I just noticed it can't display a 3840x1600 signal. It'll display a 3840x1600 desktop, that's because the GPU sends a 4K signal with black bars included. But when a game sets a 3840x1600 exclusive fullscreen mode, the monitor instead of adding the missing black bars, simply goes black and the display signal is lost. A reddit post written 7 months ago says.
Scale on GPU and not monitor if it's an unsupported resolution.
 

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My screen with underscores is fine when zoomed on white background. Are you using DP or HDMI 2.1? I'm using HDMI , like I said I found DP a bit soft and weird with this monitor. Any blue on that image is due to the refresh rates of the camera and monitor and not what I see.


Scale on GPU and not monitor if it's an unsupported resolution.
DP should look the same as HDMI or am i wrong?
I think for using with PC DP is the better choice?
But HDMI has with 2.1 variable Refreshrate which claims to be the "same" as Gsync

I am trying to find a difference in image quality between DP and HDMI, DP with DSC has much lower bandwide so there must be a visual difference
 
I just noticed it can't display a 3840x1600 signal. It'll display a 3840x1600 desktop, that's because the GPU sends a 4K signal with black bars included. But when a game sets a 3840x1600 exclusive fullscreen mode, the monitor instead of adding the missing black bars, simply goes black and the display signal is lost. A reddit post written 7 months ago says:


:cry: This is really bad if it can't be fixed because the inverse ghosting below 85Hz is very strong, so you need to be able to lower the resolution to increase fps in certain titles, to keep the variable refresh rate up. Going straight to 2560x1440 is fps overkill, a waste.

I also noticed that for some reason a 3840x1600 desktop (=a 4K signal with black bars) cannot do HDR at 144Hz, only at 120Hz max, even though the monitor CAN do HDR at 144Hz at 4K. Makes no sense.

I used CRU to add to the Windows registry's information about the monitor's EDID the resolutions that I've also added in NVCP because otherwise HDR doesn't work in any of them. HDR works only in resolutions that by Windows are considered part of the monitor's EDID information that Windows stores in the registry. I still can't get the monitor to display a true 3840x1600 signal in the first place though.


Underscores in filenames, 100% scaling and a smartphone camera that turns the greys a reddish hue.

EDIT: I decided to test 3840x1600 in Divinity Original Sin: Enhanced Edition and it works in that. That game offers 3 options, called:
- Fullscreen
- Fake fullscreen
- Windowed

It works in "Fullscreen" mode. Didn't work in Shadow of the Tomb Raider so I don't know what's going on with that game.
Tomb Raider has no "real Fullscreen" even if this game has an "exclusive Fullscreen" option in the game 😁
 
DP should look the same as HDMI or am i wrong?
It should be. DP 1.4 is running at maximum bandwidth while HDMI 2.1 is running half bandwidth. I'd say the half bandwidth will be less prone to effects of errors due to cable length and connectors etc

I think for using with PC DP is the better choice?
Like I've said multiple times, on my PC the HDMI 2.1 on this monitor is pixel sharp. DP1.4 isn't and looks desaturated. This could be due to the monitor loading in a different profile with DP, I don't know? I know which I preferred so I use it. The difference is like using the sRGB preset on the DP and Green preset on HDMI.

But HDMI has with 2.1 variable Refreshrate which claims to be the "same" as Gsync
Never used Gsync. Never noticed any issues with VRR either.
I am trying to find a difference in image quality between DP and HDMI, DP with DSC has much lower bandwide so there must be a visual difference
If you can't see any then why worry about it?
 
Scale on GPU and not monitor if it's an unsupported resolution.
Nvidia scaling and HDR are mutually exclusive(*). For 3840x1600 the goal is to not scale.

* Nvcp custom resolutions and HDR are also mutually exclusive, unless after creating 3840x1600 in nvcp the resolution is switched to by Windows' settings UI not nvcp itself and the resolution has to be EDID registered with CRU otherwise HDR still gets disabled. For whatever reason the Settings UI doesn't list any additional CRU-added EDID resolutions until they're are actually used, so I had to use nvcp to create the custom resolution, use nvcp to switch to it once (= no HDR), then use the settings UI to switch away from it and back again to restore HDR functionality.

I personally don't want anything to scale, generally, so I keep nvcp set to "No scaling" in combination with "perform scaling on GPU". I do need to remember that if I do want scaling, using GPU scaling will disable HDR. Nvidia's "aspect ratio" scaling on paper would be a good option that will not vertically stretch 3840x1600 because it's the full width but would still upscale 2560x1440 which without scaling does get rather small on a 43" panel but you can't use HDR with that.

You can probably imagine my frustration before I figured out all of that. I have a console gamer friend, who when he's home from work simply wants his games to work after one button press. Can't say I blame him, PC gaming is a mess when it comes to this stuff, combining VRR + non native resolution + UW aspect ratio + HDR is not straightforward. On top of that what makes the FV43U harder to use than others is having to keep the VRR Hz above 85 to avoid the strong inverse ghosting but below 120 to not increase the dark smearing. When you can't get 85+ fps, the inverse ghosting with g-sync is insane but turning off overdrive smears too much so then you switch to fixed refresh with "half refresh v-sync" at 60 fps (120Hz) to keep the refresh rate in the monitor's usable range. (Or 144Hz / 72fps with a bit more dark smearing.) That's the very real downside of Freesync instead of having a g-sync module that can do variable overdrive and controls both overshoot and smearing with a one setting fits all fire & forget toggle. It will all require less active thought as time goes on and I get used to using this thing, but right now I spend more time adjusting settings than actually using it. You do sacrifice a lot to get the higher contrast and HDR going from a g-sync module IPS panel to this. I do like the more impactful picture for gaming enough to put up with all this as well as text not being the best - at least for now, so I don't think I'll be returning it.

Officially, the VRR range is 48-144. In reality it is 85-110, 120 max as above 110 the dark smearing increases so only a fool would ever use it at 144Hz. Below 85 fps the massive inverse ghosting requires switching from VRR to fixed refresh 120Hz 60fps with v-sync at half the refresh rate. How about they tell us THAT on the manufacturer's product page / spec sheet, hmm? Right below the contrast rating would be a good spot for it. There is no honesty with these monitor manufacturers.

Tomb Raider has no "real Fullscreen" even if this game has an "exclusive Fullscreen" option in the game
1f601.png
I've seen many (Unity) indie devs call borderless window "fullscreen", but specifically calling something "exclusive fullscreen" when it's not? That's real AAA development skills. At least it wasn't the monitor.

In the OSD menu, Gaming --> Display Mode, how come the only two options not greyed out are Full and Aspect? Are the 1:1 and other aspect choices exclusive to HDMI / consoles? (I'm using DP.) In nvcp I temporarily enabled scaling done by display which didn't make a difference to which Display Mode choices were greyed out.
 
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Nvidia scaling and HDR are mutually exclusive(*). For 3840x1600 the goal is to not scale.

* Nvcp custom resolutions and HDR are also mutually exclusive, unless after creating 3840x1600 in nvcp the resolution is switched to by Windows' settings UI not nvcp itself and the resolution has to be EDID registered with CRU otherwise HDR still gets disabled. For whatever reason the Settings UI doesn't list any additional CRU-added EDID resolutions until they're are actually used, so I had to use nvcp to create the custom resolution, use nvcp to switch to it once (= no HDR), then use the settings UI to switch away from it and back again to restore HDR functionality.

I personally don't want anything to scale, generally, so I keep nvcp set to "No scaling" in combination with "perform scaling on GPU". I do need to remember that if I do want scaling, using GPU scaling will disable HDR. Nvidia's "aspect ratio" scaling on paper would be a good option that will not vertically stretch 3840x1600 because it's the full width but would still upscale 2560x1440 which without scaling does get rather small on a 43" panel but you can't use HDR with that.

You can probably imagine my frustration before I figured out all of that. I have a console gamer friend, who when he's home from work simply wants his games to work after one button press. Can't say I blame him, PC gaming is a mess when it comes to this stuff, combining VRR + non native resolution + UW aspect ratio + HDR is not straightforward. On top of that what makes the FV43U harder to use than others is having to keep the VRR Hz above 85 to avoid the strong inverse ghosting but below 120 to not increase the dark smearing. When you can't get 85+ fps, the inverse ghosting with g-sync is insane but turning off overdrive smears too much so then you switch to fixed refresh with "half refresh v-sync" at 60 fps (120Hz) to keep the refresh rate in the monitor's usable range. (Or 144Hz / 72fps with a bit more dark smearing.) That's the very real downside of Freesync instead of having a g-sync module that can do variable overdrive and controls both overshoot and smearing with a one setting fits all fire & forget toggle. It will all require less active thought as time goes on and I get used to using this thing, but right now I spend more time adjusting settings than actually using it. You do sacrifice a lot to get the higher contrast and HDR going from a g-sync module IPS panel to this. I do like the more impactful picture for gaming enough to put up with all this as well as text not being the best - at least for now, so I don't think I'll be returning it.

Officially, the VRR range is 48-144. In reality it is 85-110, 120 max as above 110 the dark smearing increases so only a fool would ever use it at 144Hz. Below 85 fps the massive inverse ghosting requires switching from VRR to fixed refresh 120Hz 60fps with v-sync at half the refresh rate. How about they tell us THAT on the manufacturer's product page / spec sheet, hmm? Right below the contrast rating would be a good spot for it. There is no honesty with these monitor manufacturers.


I've seen many (Unity) indie devs call borderless window "fullscreen", but specifically calling something "exclusive fullscreen" when it's not? That's real AAA development skills. At least it wasn't the monitor.

In the OSD menu, Gaming --> Display Mode, how come the only two options not greyed out are Full and Aspect? Are the 1:1 and other aspect choices exclusive to HDMI / consoles? (I'm using DP.) In nvcp I temporarily enabled scaling done by display which didn't make a difference to which Display Mode choices were greyed out.
i also have only these 2 modes not grayed out, DP and HDMI, maybe as you said for consoles or even normal looking TV
 
Nvidia scaling and HDR are mutually exclusive(*)
Are you sure about that? That's how I used to run my 8k and got HDR just fine.

edit: just tested it and it didn't work. Funny that it used to work fine.
 
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Found some strange behavior :

doesnt matter which hz you choose in windows 60/120/144hz and also doesnt matter what you choose in game.
The game always using max refresh rate, even when choosing 60hz in Game.

This is because of Gsync is activated?
But when you are using a limiter its cutting where you put the value

Edit : Not the case in all games, and also AC Valhalla recognizes 60hz as "standard" refresh rate instead of 144hz but no problem at all
 
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Is anyone else getting red ghosting, typically next to brown objects like tree trunks and wooden furniture? And are you unable to get rid of it, like I am? Changing overdrive settings or refresh rate/fps doesn't affect it, the red ghosting always remains. Unlike regular dark smearing and regular blue/greenish overshoot (inverse ghosting) which can typically be controlled reasonably well with the right settings.

Tomb Raider has no "real Fullscreen" even if this game has an "exclusive Fullscreen" option in the game
For the record, I got UW working in in Shadow o/t Tomb Raider, in the end, the trial version (demo) to be exact. Disabled scaling in nvcp, set the desktop to the custom resolution of choice - 3840x1836 in my case, somewhere between 16:9 and UW, then set the game to that same resolution and "fullscreen", not "exclusive" fullscreen. Impressive environment graphics on this monitor with all the bells & whistles turned up.

Two warnings about Local Dimming:
  • Changing Display Mode in the menu from the default setting (Full) to Aspect (or likely anything else) breaks local dimming. The Local Dimming setting if enabled remains enabled, but it won't be doing anything anymore. To restore its functionality you have to change Display Mode back to Full, then disable and re-enable local dimming.
  • Leaving any OSD menu open disables local dimming until closed. This also applies to the Hz counter!

My local dimming had stopped working and I couldn't get it back, so I started to think maybe my unit's local dimming had died after 1 week of use. However I did a factory reset and local dimming worked again. Through a process of elimination I found the culprit was Display Mode. It is possible that there are more settings that break the local dimming. So if you're unsure, use the local dimming test video on youtube to confirm that it still works.
 
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The game always using max refresh rate, even when choosing 60hz in Game.

This is because of Gsync is activated?
But when you are using a limiter its cutting where you put the value

Edit : Not the case in all games, and also AC Valhalla recognizes 60hz as "standard" refresh rate instead of 144hz but no problem at all
I think there's a setting in the nvidia global profile which states something like "Aim for highest refresh", I think you can change it to application controlled. Or in the per app profile you can set the desired max frame rate with a slider.

Two warnings about Local Dimming:
I don't know how dark your blacks are but mine are very dark, only really noticeable from the screens surrounding frame when on a 100% solid black screen. Local dimming on mine just turns the brightness and contrast up to extreme levels and then makes games "breathe" as I move from dark to light areas. I put it on in Elden Ring and it annoyed the fuck out of me after about a minute. I don't see the point in it. If I wanted to see a screen auto adjusting brightness as I use it I'd have bought an OLED.
 
Is anyone else getting red ghosting, typically next to brown objects like tree trunks and wooden furniture? And are you unable to get rid of it, like I am? Changing overdrive settings or refresh rate/fps doesn't affect it, the red ghosting always remains. Unlike regular dark smearing and regular blue/greenish overshoot (inverse ghosting) which can typically be controlled reasonably well with the right settings.


For the record, I got UW working in in Shadow o/t Tomb Raider, in the end, the trial version (demo) to be exact. Disabled scaling in nvcp, set the desktop to the custom resolution of choice - 3840x1836 in my case, somewhere between 16:9 and UW, then set the game to that same resolution and "fullscreen", not "exclusive" fullscreen. Impressive environment graphics on this monitor with all the bells & whistles turned up.

Two warnings about Local Dimming:
  • Changing Display Mode in the menu from the default setting (Full) to Aspect (or likely anything else) breaks local dimming. The Local Dimming setting if enabled remains enabled, but it won't be doing anything anymore. To restore its functionality you have to change Display Mode back to Full, then disable and re-enable local dimming.
  • Leaving any OSD menu open disables local dimming until closed. This also applies to the Hz counter!

My local dimming had stopped working and I couldn't get it back, so I started to think maybe my unit's local dimming had died after 1 week of use. However I did a factory reset and local dimming worked again. Through a process of elimination I found the culprit was Display Mode. It is possible that there are more settings that break the local dimming. So if you're unsure, use the local dimming test video on youtube to confirm that it still works.
how did you a factory reset?there is only a "settings reset" in the OSD right?
 
I think there's a setting in the nvidia global profile which states something like "Aim for highest refresh", I think you can change it to application controlled. Or in the per app profile you can set the desired max frame rate with a slider.
yes right and when having 144hz ingame and capping at 120hz or something else, the edges of some things are shimmering at the edges.
When switching to 120hz ingame that problem is gone. Really strange, seems like the monitor doesnt really cant get 144hz to work right
 
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