GIGABYTE AORUS FV43U 43 inch 4k 144 HDR1000 QLED monitor

shadow2761

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Try playing RE8 in these environment and see how far you can get.

I played RE2/3 remakes on my CX and was absolutely blown away by the HDR quality it presented.

I tweaked my CX a bit last night to make it vibrant, after a few more hours of testing various games, definite keeper for gaming until something with this quality comes out at a smaller screen size.
 

Wiz33

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I played RE2/3 remakes on my CX and was absolutely blown away by the HDR quality it presented.

I tweaked my CX a bit last night to make it vibrant, after a few more hours of testing various games, definite keeper for gaming until something with this quality comes out at a smaller screen size.

Did you play in an environment with with a fair bit of ambient light like those you see in my post? I'm surprised that all the OLED owners thought that their 800 nits is enough for even good HDR performance. Look at rtings review. despite getting a very high overall score. HDR performance is barely decent:

https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/cx-oled
 
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Vega

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Did you play in an environment with wit ha fair bit of ambient light like those you see in my post? I'm surprised that all the OLED owners thought that their 800 nits is enough for even good HDR performance. Look at rtings review. despite getting a very high overall score. HDR performance is barely decent:

https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/cx-oled

You have a fundamental misunderstanding of HDR. HDR max brightness is only one component. And it's not just "despite" getting a high score. LG OLEDs get THE highest overall game and movie HDR scores out of any TV or monitor.
 

shadow2761

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You have a fundamental misunderstanding of HDR. HDR max brightness is only one component. And it's not just "despite" getting a high score. LG OLEDs get THE highest overall game and movie HDR scores out of any TV or monitor.

This is what i have been trying to tell him. HDR brightness is just one aspect.

Think of all the other characterisitcs a panel can bring to improve HDR quality. Namely speaking for the OLEDs, self lit pixels for infinite contrast, and perfect blacks! Sure there is many more features that can contribute.

Why do ppl only look at peak brightness to conclude its HDR performance??
 

Wiz33

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You have a fundamental misunderstanding of HDR. HDR max brightness is only one component. And it's not just "despite" getting a high score. LG OLEDs get THE highest overall game and movie HDR scores out of any TV or monitor.

Only problem is that an OLED can only achieve that rating at a very narrow set of environmental condition while the best QLED which gets .2 less (.3 in the case of my Q90T) works much better in a much wider range.

The true black advantage disappear anytime there's a small amount of ambient light as you won't be able to tell the difference between true black and .09 nits from the ambient light reflecting off the screen.

Blooming while still present, are usually minimal on the top QLEDs (really only noticeable in the examples I listed above) .

Pixel response pretty much only appeal to hardcore gamers and 95% of the consumer can care less.

Infinite contrast ratio for OLED is basically useless as an OLED with 1 nit of max brightness will still have an infinite contrast ratio. If you take the above example with a minimal amount of ambient light reflecting off the screen, say something around .05 (which is a black level that cannot be achieve usually in most room even with blackout curtains) and calculate a contrast ratio, even with the very aggressive ABL settings, it still comes in way under those from the best QLEDs .

The very aggressive ABL setting also means you're getting a modified picture from what was originally encoded into the stream or 4K blu-ray disc.

So, at the end of the day. Outside of a very dim/dark room or a controlled test environment. All the OLED's "advantage" disappears and you're down to good old brightness and contrast ratio to see how good it looks in a real world environment. Real world use is the reason I dumped the CX after 2 months as it only looks good in the evening and is pretty much sub par to the Q90T the rest of the time.
 
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Wag

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If the 42" OLEDs were out we'd have a good comparison, but as of now it isn't and we have no idea when they will be available. I also wonder if any of them will be targeted as strictly PC displays? I have a 2080Ti, and also, god knows when I'll be able to find a 3xxx card to upgrade to, so without DP1.4 I'm not getting >60Hz.
 

spintroniX

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If the 42" OLEDs were out we'd have a good comparison, but as of now it isn't and we have no idea when they will be available. I also wonder if any of them will be targeted as strictly PC displays? I have a 2080Ti, and also, god knows when I'll be able to find a 3xxx card to upgrade to, so without DP1.4 I'm not getting >60Hz.
You can get one of those fancy adapters and get 4k 120 Hz 4:4:4 but no VRR.

I'm in the same boat, basically, so I went with the Aorus. I thought long and hard (giggity) about the CX 48. It's obviously a phenomenal display, but I don't want to have to worry about burn in and the 48" size is just too much for my desk. A C1 42 would have been a slam dunk; I would have risked the burn in for the better size. But, that's many months into the future and who knows if they'll gimp the other features.
 

Wiz33

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If the 42" OLEDs were out we'd have a good comparison, but as of now it isn't and we have no idea when they will be available. I also wonder if any of them will be targeted as strictly PC displays? I have a 2080Ti, and also, god knows when I'll be able to find a 3xxx card to upgrade to, so without DP1.4 I'm not getting >60Hz.

Yea, that's another reason I got the FV43U. I was lucky enough to actually get a 3080 direct from EVGA last Nov using their Auto Notify system (which really work as they actually put the product in your cart and you have 8 hours to check out) before the masses figured it out and flooded the queue (still took me 2 months but much better than the current lead time of 6 months)) but it's in my home system connected to the CG437K. I was thinking about building a small home theater PC for the Q90T but with no further 30xx cards available, I ended up getting a new Laptop with a mid power spec 3070 so I an get 4K@120 on the Q90T. Which leaves me with the 2080 originally in my home office for work and using the DP 1.4 is the only way for me to get beyond 4K@60.
 

Vega

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Well almost any professional in the industry will say that any display is best viewed in a dim/dark light controlled room. If for whatever reason you do like a bright room, yes that would allow LCD's single greater strength of maximum brightness to shine (pun intended).
 

Wiz33

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If the 42" OLEDs were out we'd have a good comparison, but as of now it isn't and we have no idea when they will be available. I also wonder if any of them will be targeted as strictly PC displays? I have a 2080Ti, and also, god knows when I'll be able to find a 3xxx card to upgrade to, so without DP1.4 I'm not getting >60Hz.

Newegg has a shuffle system that you can signup for. You don't have to try to beat the bots when stock becomes available, you basically have like a 3 hours period where you can try to get the card you want and they just do a random drawing later that day and you have a few hours to make your purchase if your account is drawn. Still sucks but better than trying to beat all the bots.
 
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Wiz33

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Well almost any professional in the industry will say that any display is best viewed in a dim/dark light controlled room. If for whatever reason you do like a bright room, yes that would allow LCD's single greater strength of maximum brightness to shine (pun intended).

I'm one of those professionals, been in the high tech / high end AV field for over 40 years (I've worn many hats during my career). I was already using a $3000 (over $12k when adjusted for inflation) front projection TV and a $1500 VCR back the late 70s. Unfortunately, most of us living in the real world does not have the luxury of a dedicated theater room or only use the TV at night. I also assume that most people that use them as a PC monitor actually works and not many of us work in a very dim/dark office environment.
 
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Wag

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Newegg has a shuffle system that you can signup for. You don't have to try to beat the bots when stock becomes available, you basically have like a 3 hours period where you can try to get the card you want and they just just do a random drawing later that day and you have a few hours to make your purchase if your account is drawn. Still sucks but better than trying to beat all the bots.
I refuse to pay Newegg's marked up prices for any piece of computer hardware. At best I can hope to get a 3080Ti as being one of EVGA's "Elite" members, but even then it's a pretty slim chance. I imagine those will come in ~$1200.

Right now the FV43U looks like a good bet- just waiting on one or two more technical reviews.

Wiz- I'm probably going to be taking the ISF certification course- it's a bit of an investment on my part, but I'm >50 and disabled, so I thought it would be a good way of earning some disposable income- plenty of wealthy white people in my (Boston suburbs) area with home theaters and decent TVs, and what with the pandemic the home theater experience is getting more popular than ever. I'll just be doing it part time, and probably will only do it within the area. There seem to be very few ISF calibrators in the US, and most of them travel within regions.
 

kasakka

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Why would anyone turn a beautiful home into a dark cave just to watch TV is beyond me. Now If I have a dedicated theater room, that's a difference story. Also, in a lot of newer house with a open floorplan (like the one with the AG9), it's impractical if not impossible to achieve a low enough light level for OLED to work in day time. How about in a office work environment? How do you work in a dark office?

P.S. Thanks for agreeing with me that a OLED does not work in an average home or office during day time 😜
Any display will struggle with enough light coming in, even LCDs. I had a 65" Samsung KS8000 in the same spot as the 65" LG C9 and had very much the same issues. The KS8000 due to its antiglare coating ended up actually looking worse in some situations because of the way bright light spread across a larger area compared to the sharper reflections on the glossy OLED.

It's not like my living room is some dark cave. There's one curtain that is closed partially, enough to make the area where the TV is a bit darker but not going to affect how much light there is in the room. As I type this it's a bright day here in Finland at around 1 o'clock and my gf is watching TV and it's fine. Meanwhile I am on my computer with the CX 48" and this room just has blinds closed and again, no problems. There's a lot of light in both rooms.
 

Wiz33

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Any display will struggle with enough light coming in, even LCDs. I had a 65" Samsung KS8000 in the same spot as the 65" LG C9 and had very much the same issues. The KS8000 due to its antiglare coating ended up actually looking worse in some situations because of the way bright light spread across a larger area compared to the sharper reflections on the glossy OLED.

It's not like my living room is some dark cave. There's one curtain that is closed partially, enough to make the area where the TV is a bit darker but not going to affect how much light there is in the room. As I type this it's a bright day here in Finland at around 1 o'clock and my gf is watching TV and it's fine. Meanwhile I am on my computer with the CX 48" and this room just has blinds closed and again, no problems. There's a lot of light in both rooms.

Yes, they will struggle but it's how far they have to struggle that makes the different. I had a 65" KS9500 in the same spot before the CX and the Q90T. I didn't have problem with KS9500 antiglare or color shift on the edge with the curved screen (but there are usually no more than 2 of us watching). Then I put the CX in that spot and while the CX was better at night. It's worse during the day if you're watching something dark like most of the indoor scenes in Games of Thrones. It's fine as long as you're watching something well lighted like sport or news but it just couldn't handle dark contents well during the day time, especially with the glossy screen. The reflections were killing me so I dumped it and got the Q90T. But my situation is actually worse than what you saw on the AG9 pictures as I have a couple big floor to ceiling windows (curtained) directly behind the TV and behind where I sit (please excuse the mess). Somehow, the Q90T (even though it also has a glossy screen) appears to handle reflections better and dark contents are at least watchable most of the time. I would even put it up against the CX at night since there's still a fair bit of ambient light from the rest of the house.

IMG_9039.jpg


I'll be replacing the curtains in the next month or so and I'm considering adding a blackout layer but that would require a 3 layer setup as there's currently a lace type layer in between the beige curtain and the window. I may just go with a thicker material with a slightly darker color.
 
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Wiz33

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I refuse to pay Newegg's marked up prices for any piece of computer hardware. At best I can hope to get a 3080Ti as being one of EVGA's "Elite" members, but even then it's a pretty slim chance. I imagine those will come in ~$1200.

Right now the FV43U looks like a good bet- just waiting on one or two more technical reviews.

Wiz- I'm probably going to be taking the ISF certification course- it's a bit of an investment on my part, but I'm >50 and disabled, so I thought it would be a good way of earning some disposable income- plenty of wealthy white people in my (Boston suburbs) area with home theaters and decent TVs, and what with the pandemic the home theater experience is getting more popular than ever. I'll just be doing it part time, and probably will only do it within the area. There seem to be very few ISF calibrators in the US, and most of them travel within regions.

That's a good idea as a lot of consumer TV out of the box settings leaves a lot to be desired. I'm not really in the AV business anymore (but I do stay connected) but back in my days, we used to laugh at people when they say how their Sony TV has more vibrant color than other TV they saw on the showroom. What they didn't realize it that Sony purposely use a more vibrant (but by no means accurate) color palette just so their TV will stand out against competitors. I guess that's the beginning of the Demo/Showroom mode that you see on most TV nowadays. Even simple calibration on a TV can result in a much better viewing experience. I understand enough about the process so I just use Spears & Munsil calibration discs and HCFR on my TV once I give them about 100 hours to settle down (probably not needed but just from old habits). BTW, HCFR is opensource and free but you'll need to get a meter (but you'll need that for ISF anyways) and will let you get pretty deep into calibration before paying for a cert.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/hcfr/
 
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kueli

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Did anyone see larger differences to der ASUS XG43UQ?
What I see the Aorus has a little bit better image quality with qled and the ASUS got Freesync premium pro and ELMB.

I really don’t know if the sync feature makes a big difference with my rtx3090 due both supports gsync compatible.

the Aorus is for sale for 1199 euros and is at stock at Germany and the Asus for 1399 euros (I had preordered it) in 2-6 weeks… any suggestions even there is no direct comparison online? :)
 

Wiz33

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Did anyone see larger differences to der ASUS XG43UQ?
What I see the Aorus has a little bit better image quality with qled and the ASUS got Freesync premium pro and ELMB.

I really don’t know if the sync feature makes a big difference with my rtx3090 due both supports gsync compatible.

the Aorus is for sale for 1199 euros and is at stock at Germany and the Asus for 1399 euros (I had preordered it) in 2-6 weeks… any suggestions even there is no direct comparison online? :)

Won't find any comparison till the unit is actually out in the hands of actual users. The spec is close enough that it's probably the exact same panel so it's pretty much down to software and setting level between the two manufacturer.
 

SoCali

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Yeah CG437K motion blur is puke inducing for me. I had that thing back in the box within 15 minutes.
 

Wiz33

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Yeah CG437K motion blur is puke inducing for me. I had that thing back in the box within 15 minutes.

Well, maybe you should see a doctor. I just finished a 45 hours playthrough of ME1 from the Legendary Edition on the CG437K and I did not puke at all. 😜😜
 

Wag

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That's a good idea as a lot of consumer TV out of the box settings leaves a lot to be desired. I'm not really in the AV business anymore (but I do stay connected) but back in my days, we used to laugh at people when they say how their Sony TV has more vibrant color than other TV they saw on the showroom. What they didn't realize it that Sony purposely use a more vibrant (but by no means accurate) color palette just so their TV will stand out against competitors. I guess that's the beginning of the Demo/Showroom mode that you see on most TV nowadays. Even simple calibration on a TV can result in a much better viewing experience. I understand enough about the process so I just use Spears & Munsil calibration discs and HCFR on my TV once I give them about 100 hours to settle down (probably not needed but just from old habits). BTW, HCFR is opensource and free but you'll need to get a meter (but you'll need that for ISF anyways) and will let you get pretty deep into calibration before paying for a cert.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/hcfr/
I’ve been interacting the the guy who runs the Imaging Science Foundation for a month or so now and he told me that a good portion of the ISF certified calibrators (including him) are retired and are doing it as a second career.

I have the Spears & Munsil 4k disk, but I really need to buy a laptop and a colorimeter. It’s surprising to me there are no iPad/iPhone apps that can do it- I have a gen 4 iPad Air, that should be more than able to handle it. I also have a brand new Vizio P85-QXH1 to practice on- that TV needs to be calibrated in the worst way. Even plugging in Rtings settings made a huge difference.
 

Wiz33

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I’ve been interacting the the guy who runs the Imaging Science Foundation for a month or so now and he told me that a good portion of the ISF certified calibrators (including him) are retired and are doing it as a second career.

I have the Spears & Munsil 4k disk, but I really need to buy a laptop and a colorimeter. It’s surprising to me there are no iPad/iPhone apps that can do it- I have a gen 4 iPad Air, that should be more than able to handle it. I also have a brand new Vizio P85-QXH1 to practice on- that TV needs to be calibrated in the worst way. Even plugging in Rtings settings made a huge difference.

Yea, Rtings setting is usually just the first step. But you really need a meter as that will take into other environment factor like ambient light and reflections.
 

SoCali

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Well, maybe you should see a doctor. I just finished a 45 hours playthrough of ME1 from the Legendary Edition on the CG437K and I did not puke at all. 😜😜
I think you need to get your eyes checked because the CG437K is literally unusable for any type of gaming. How you haven't noticed 2cm of trailing black smear really makes it difficult for me to take you seriously among all this OLED discussion. This is also ignoring the fact that you refer to Samsung's LCD's as "QLED"
 

Wag

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Yea, Rtings setting is usually just the first step. But you really need a meter as that will take into other environment factor like ambient light and reflections.
A little OT, but the fact there are no iPad apps for display calibration that work with a colorimeter is disappointing. I have an old Spyder3 around here somewhere, and that should be enough to do the job.
 

Wiz33

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I think you need to get your eyes checked because the CG437K is literally unusable for any type of gaming. How you haven't noticed 2cm of trailing black smear really makes it difficult for me to take you seriously among all this OLED discussion. This is also ignoring the fact that you refer to Samsung's LCD's as "QLED"

Yet it's pretty much all sold out all over and while not universally loved by reviewers, none of them have reported serve ghosting problem. It didn't affect me probably because I don't work in the dark. Might want to have a bit more ambient light in the room (less eye strain too) but the CX probably wouldn't look as good in those environment.
 
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Wiz33

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A little OT, but the fact there are no iPad apps for display calibration that work with a colorimeter is disappointing. I have an old Spyder3 around here somewhere, and that should be enough to do the job.

Yea took a quick look and there's literally nothing available. Might want to keep an eye out for a cheap Windows laptop.
 

Wag

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Well, Newegg raised the price by $100 so I am surely not buying one now. I might as well just wait for more reviews and it goes on sale again or just wait out the 42” OLEDs. By then this will have dropped in price anyways.
 

Wiz33

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Hey there. Anyone know if this Aorus FV43U monitor has a "deep sleep off" setting for displayport ?

I'm not considering the LG OLEDs because 48" I feel is too big for me, I don't like how those LGs handle reflections, and I believe burn-in is still a real thing (even if you can do stuff to help prevent it and it's better than before)

I actually already have the Acer CG437k and I like it overall for the games I play (usually third person RPGs or fighting games)

but it has been a bit annoying that the CG437k gets disconnected from Windows when I turn it off... especially because after turning it back on it causes my multiple monitors to flash for a bit as Windows re-detects the CG437k again and re-enables its g-sync. Turning deep sleep off for displayport would resolve this, but the CG437k doesn't have this setting...

that and also the g-sync in the CG437k has been inconsistent for me. In all the games I've tried in windowed mode or borderless, it either doesn't activate g-sync or does activate it but the monitor starts displaying some brightness flickering. In some games I can get g-sync to work perfectly and without brightness flickering if I play them set to fullscreen, but in some other games I can set them to fullscreen and still get brightness flickering and it annoys me - so for those games I've ended up disabling g-sync (brightness flickering doesn't happen at all with g-sync off). At least most of the games I play are games that have a 60fps cap (again, usually third person rpgs and fighting games), so the game will still be smooth/synced for me as long as I can keep a constant 60fps (apparently it works out since the CG437K's refresh rate is 120hz and 60 is a factor of 120).

I also have an rtx 3090 (got lucky with a bestbuy drop...) so I've been able to do 4k 60fps without issue in the games I play, but there are a few games where I could play with unlocked fps above 60 but I won't because then my fps won't be in sync with my monitor's refresh rate unless I enable g-sync - but then I get brightness flickering in most games even in fullscreen with my CG437K. at least in some games it only seems to happen in loading screens or main menus, but still annoying... especially considering that I also have a Viewsonic 1440p monitor, which has the native/full g-sync chip, and I get no brightness flickering in that monitor (even in windowed/borderless mode I get zero brightness flickering with the Viewsonic monitor). I also used to have an ASUS monitor with native g-sync which also never showed brighness flickering even in windowed or borderless mode... so in my experience native g-sync has been better, but unfortunately no 4k 43" monitor with native g-sync exist yet as far as I know. Maybe one day...

Still I like how this new Aorus FV43U has hdmi 2.1 and quantum dot. Running it on hdmi would solve the deep sleep issue also I guess (though while limiting the refresh rate to 120 on hdmi iirc as opposed to running 144hz with displayport), but I wonder if g-sync behaves better in the Aorus monitor than in the Acer. I might get the Aorus at some point and try it out... or wait to see if more and better 4k 43" monitors come out in the near future. I really like the 43" size for 4k
Download the manual and see, Mines at the office so I'll check when I go in tomorrow.
 

shilent

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I noticed local dimming flickering with HDR on this monitor. This is NOT PWM dimming. It only happens when when cycling through the different HDR modes.
For example, while in an HDR game, cycle through any of the built-in HDR modes on the monitor. If you then cycle back to "HDR1000", or any other mode with local dimming enabled, there will be flickering in darker areas. I can then either turn local dimming off, or exit the game, toggle HDR off then back on in Windows 10, then load the game again and all is fine if I don't touch the HDR modes. This also seems to happen with HDR content in YouTube. I opened a ticket with Gigabyte on this, but not confident in their technical support. They've responded to my other question and their response was horrible.

When watching HDR content from an 2019 nVidia Shield (Disney+, Amazon Prime), the local dimming on the FV43U seems to favor dark/dim. I think I'm missing out on some specular highlights. This doesn't seem to be an issue with gaming though.


Hey there. Anyone know if this Aorus FV43U monitor has a "deep sleep off" setting for displayport ?

I'm not considering the LG OLEDs because 48" I feel is too big for me, I don't like how those LGs handle reflections, and I believe burn-in is still a real thing (even if you can do stuff to help prevent it and it's better than before)

I actually already have the Acer CG437k and I like it overall for the games I play (usually third person RPGs or fighting games)

but it has been a bit annoying that the CG437k gets disconnected from Windows when I turn it off... especially because after turning it back on it causes my multiple monitors to flash for a bit as Windows re-detects the CG437k again and re-enables its g-sync. Turning deep sleep off for displayport would resolve this, but the CG437k doesn't have this setting...

that and also the g-sync in the CG437k has been inconsistent for me. In all the games I've tried in windowed mode or borderless, it either doesn't activate g-sync or does activate it but the monitor starts displaying some brightness flickering. In some games I can get g-sync to work perfectly and without brightness flickering if I play them set to fullscreen, but in some other games I can set them to fullscreen and still get brightness flickering and it annoys me - so for those games I've ended up disabling g-sync (brightness flickering doesn't happen at all with g-sync off). At least most of the games I play are games that have a 60fps cap (again, usually third person rpgs and fighting games), so the game will still be smooth/synced for me as long as I can keep a constant 60fps (apparently it works out since the CG437K's refresh rate is 120hz and 60 is a factor of 120).

I also have an rtx 3090 (got lucky with a bestbuy drop...) so I've been able to do 4k 60fps without issue in the games I play, but there are a few games where I could play with unlocked fps above 60 but I won't because then my fps won't be in sync with my monitor's refresh rate unless I enable g-sync - but then I get brightness flickering in most games even in fullscreen with my CG437K. at least in some games it only seems to happen in loading screens or main menus, but still annoying... especially considering that I also have a Viewsonic 1440p monitor, which has the native/full g-sync chip, and I get no brightness flickering in that monitor (even in windowed/borderless mode I get zero brightness flickering with the Viewsonic monitor). I also used to have an ASUS monitor with native g-sync which also never showed brighness flickering even in windowed or borderless mode... so in my experience native g-sync has been better, but unfortunately no 4k 43" monitor with native g-sync exist yet as far as I know. Maybe one day...

Still I like how this new Aorus FV43U has hdmi 2.1 and quantum dot. Running it on hdmi would solve the deep sleep issue also I guess (though while limiting the refresh rate to 120 on hdmi iirc as opposed to running 144hz with displayport), but I wonder if g-sync behaves better in the Aorus monitor than in the Acer. I might get the Aorus at some point and try it out... or wait to see if more and better 4k 43" monitors come out in the near future. I really like the 43" size for 4k.

I do not see any deep sleep off, or any other DisplayPort settings. When I turn off the FV43U, all windows and desktop icons move over to my other monitor.
 

Wiz33

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Hey there. Anyone know if this Aorus FV43U monitor has a "deep sleep off" setting for displayport ?

I'm not considering the LG OLEDs because 48" I feel is too big for me, I don't like how those LGs handle reflections, and I believe burn-in is still a real thing (even if you can do stuff to help prevent it and it's better than before)

I actually already have the Acer CG437k and I like it overall for the games I play (usually third person RPGs or fighting games)

but it has been a bit annoying that the CG437k gets disconnected from Windows when I turn it off... especially because after turning it back on it causes my multiple monitors to flash for a bit as Windows re-detects the CG437k again and re-enables its g-sync. Turning deep sleep off for displayport would resolve this, but the CG437k doesn't have this setting...

that and also the g-sync in the CG437k has been inconsistent for me. In all the games I've tried in windowed mode or borderless, it either doesn't activate g-sync or does activate it but the monitor starts displaying some brightness flickering. In some games I can get g-sync to work perfectly and without brightness flickering if I play them set to fullscreen, but in some other games I can set them to fullscreen and still get brightness flickering and it annoys me - so for those games I've ended up disabling g-sync (brightness flickering doesn't happen at all with g-sync off). At least most of the games I play are games that have a 60fps cap (again, usually third person rpgs and fighting games), so the game will still be smooth/synced for me as long as I can keep a constant 60fps (apparently it works out since the CG437K's refresh rate is 120hz and 60 is a factor of 120).

I also have an rtx 3090 (got lucky with a bestbuy drop...) so I've been able to do 4k 60fps without issue in the games I play, but there are a few games where I could play with unlocked fps above 60 but I won't because then my fps won't be in sync with my monitor's refresh rate unless I enable g-sync - but then I get brightness flickering in most games even in fullscreen with my CG437K. at least in some games it only seems to happen in loading screens or main menus, but still annoying... especially considering that I also have a Viewsonic 1440p monitor, which has the native/full g-sync chip, and I get no brightness flickering in that monitor (even in windowed/borderless mode I get zero brightness flickering with the Viewsonic monitor). I also used to have an ASUS monitor with native g-sync which also never showed brighness flickering even in windowed or borderless mode... so in my experience native g-sync has been better, but unfortunately no 4k 43" monitor with native g-sync exist yet as far as I know. Maybe one day...

Still I like how this new Aorus FV43U has hdmi 2.1 and quantum dot. Running it on hdmi would solve the deep sleep issue also I guess (though while limiting the refresh rate to 120 on hdmi iirc as opposed to running 144hz with displayport), but I wonder if g-sync behaves better in the Aorus monitor than in the Acer. I might get the Aorus at some point and try it out... or wait to see if more and better 4k 43" monitors come out in the near future. I really like the 43" size for 4k.

Check both the Manual and the OSD on the unit, Do not see a DP deep sleep but the unit acts differently compare to the CG437K. I have the same problem with the CG437K that when the PC come back from sleep, all my windows get shifted to the upper left like the PC only see a 1920x1080 and then I have to resize and drag all my windows to their original place. On the FV43U, no such problem. PC wakes up with all the windows at their original position.

I never use g-sync in any windows mode as there have been a lot of post about nVidia driver not working properly.

One thing I notice from reading the manual is that there's mention of the RGB LED ambient light but that option is not in my OSD.
 
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Daishi123

Limp Gawd
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Dec 5, 2017
Messages
268
Just got the monitor and so far so good. Spent about a hour getting the settings right for Hunt Showdown, and the RTX Titan is pushing between 90-100fps @4k and high setting so far. Can't really see much if any ghosting at night in that game so far. Will spend a few hours tonight on it.....but so far super happy with the purchase. No apparent dead pixels...and If I had to point out a problem, one of the feet doesn't go all the way in so I can't screw it down. But otherwise pretty awesome so far.
 

shilent

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 4, 2006
Messages
157
Just got the monitor and so far so good. Spent about a hour getting the settings right for Hunt Showdown, and the RTX Titan is pushing between 90-100fps @4k and high setting so far. Can't really see much if any ghosting at night in that game so far. Will spend a few hours tonight on it.....but so far super happy with the purchase. No apparent dead pixels...and If I had to point out a problem, one of the feet doesn't go all the way in so I can't screw it down. But otherwise pretty awesome so far.
I had that same problem with the feet at first. Turns out one of them has a notch designed to only fit on the left. It has some white markings of what looks like asian characters on it.
 

Wiz33

Gawd
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May 2, 2015
Messages
750
I noticed local dimming flickering with HDR on this monitor. This is NOT PWM dimming. It only happens when when cycling through the different HDR modes.
For example, while in an HDR game, cycle through any of the built-in HDR modes on the monitor. If you then cycle back to "HDR1000", or any other mode with local dimming enabled, there will be flickering in darker areas. I can then either turn local dimming off, or exit the game, toggle HDR off then back on in Windows 10, then load the game again and all is fine if I don't touch the HDR modes. This also seems to happen with HDR content in YouTube. I opened a ticket with Gigabyte on this, but not confident in their technical support. They've responded to my other question and their response was horrible.

When watching HDR content from an 2019 nVidia Shield (Disney+, Amazon Prime), the local dimming on the FV43U seems to favor dark/dim. I think I'm missing out on some specular highlights. This doesn't seem to be an issue with gaming though.




I do not see any deep sleep off, or any other DisplayPort settings. When I turn off the FV43U, all windows and desktop icons move over to my other monitor.

I pretty much stay in HDR1000 all the time so I have not seen the flicker at all. Even one of the review said that the unit look best in HDR1000 mode vs the other HDR mode.
 

Wiz33

Gawd
Joined
May 2, 2015
Messages
750
I had that same problem with the feet at first. Turns out one of them has a notch designed to only fit on the left. It has some white markings of what looks like asian characters on it.
Have you tried the built-in FPS counter? Is it suppose to show in game FPS or it just shows the DP connect Frequency?
 

shilent

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 4, 2006
Messages
157
Have you tried the built-in FPS counter? Is it suppose to show in game FPS or it just shows the DP connect Frequency?
Yes I use it sometimes. It shows your refresh rate. If you have adaptive sync enabled, then I guess that's kinda like showing your in-game FPS, unless your FPS ends up outside of its VRR range (48-144hz).

I can't get the Dashboard to fully work. It'll only display like half the info.
 

Wiz33

Gawd
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May 2, 2015
Messages
750
Yes I use it sometimes. It shows your refresh rate. If you have adaptive sync enabled, then I guess that's kinda like showing your in-game FPS, unless your FPS ends up outside of its VRR range (48-144hz).

I can't get the Dashboard to fully work. It'll only display like half the info.

Got a picture? I left office already but will be back Friday morning and I can check then. I know that a bunch of the picture option is only available out of HDR mode. You can't even see them in the menu until you get out of HDR mode.
 

shilent

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 4, 2006
Messages
157
Got a picture? I left office already but will be back Friday morning and I can check then. I know that a bunch of the picture option is only available out of HDR mode. You can't even see them in the menu until you get out of HDR mode.
I meant the Dashboard that shows your PC info like CPU/GPU temp. It appears to be working now except for CPU temp. I updated to the lastest F03 beta firmware, maybe that helped.

IMG_20210526_164947.jpg
 

Wiz33

Gawd
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May 2, 2015
Messages
750
I meant the Dashboard that shows your PC info like CPU/GPU temp. It appears to be working now except for CPU temp. I updated to the lastest F03 beta firmware, maybe that helped.

View attachment 360139
AH, I'm still waiting on a longer USB cable to connect to PC. Did you install the OSD Sidekick from the support page?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Monitor/AORUS-FV43U/support#support-dl-utility

I don't see new firmware on support page. Where did you find it and did it fix your backlight flicker?
 

shilent

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 4, 2006
Messages
157
AH, I'm still waiting on a longer USB cable to connect to PC. Did you install the OSD Sidekick from the support page?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Monitor/AORUS-FV43U/support#support-dl-utility

I don't see new firmware on support page. Where did you find it and did it fix your backlight flicker?
Yes I installed OSD Sidekick from the support page.

I found the firmware here a few days ago: https://www.gigabyte.com/Monitor/AORUS-FV43U/support#support-dl-firmware . No it did not fix the backlight flicker with local dimming. I don't see any difference with the new firmware. It'd be nice if Gigabyte had release notes.
 
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