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GIGABYTE AORUS FV43U 43 inch 4k 144 HDR1000 QLED monitor
- Thread starter cjtk
- Start date
xDiVolatilX
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2021
- Messages
- 3,102
At the time the FV43U released there was only one other display that was competing and that was the QN90A. Now there is a few more choices for mini led but I don't have personal experience with them. Some are smaller like 32 but a lot of the newer ones are oled. I prefer mini-led myself so i went with the QN90B, but now there is even the QN90C also.
I can only recommend the Samsung large screens because that's what I have experience with and the QN90 series is fantastic. The HDR and 144Hz and VRR are all simultaneous and amazing. If you want a 50 or 43 mini led the Samsungs are phenomenal.
Roen
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2021
- Messages
- 113
As of recently when I switch it on, my FV43U displays the signal for a few seconds, goes black again for several seconds as if on standby, then displays the signal a 2nd time and only then it'll stay on. The process takes 18 seconds. As if it loses the signal a few seconds after the first seemingly already successful attempt at picking it up. Does anyone know what causes this behavior, so I don't have to go through weeks / months of trial & error? ;-) It was never the fastest to begin with but now that it effectively turns on twice everytime I turn it on once, it's become a bit of a pain.
It is still connected to the same 3080 using the same DP cable it's always been, one of the best money could buy at the time I got the monitor. If it was a cable issue it'd be random. For the record, I keep HDR switched off in Windows settings and G-sync is configured to only apply to fullscreen applications. The panel is set to 144Hz. There is a 2nd monitor attached as well, also running at 144Hz and it doesn't seem to matter whether that one is switched on or not. And no, that one doesn't have this issue.
For a moment I wondered whether it might be related to having disabled HDCP (a form of copy protection for video and audio) in Windows registry to stop Spotify's website randomly turning off the display. Spotify have known for years that their website randomly turns off certain (mostly Gigabyte) displays, only their website does that not the desktop app, but it would surprise me if it's related to my issue of the monitor turning on twice 'cause the latter happens even when there's no Spotify or other media playing or game running. Nvidia control panel says HDCP support is disabled in the OS so clearly the graphics driver is aware of it and therefore there shouldn't be a 2nd handshake of sorts. It's probably something else.
When I get a chance I'll see if it happens on Linux too.
Inconsistency
It occurs at least 90% of the itme, but not always. I've just turned it off and on again on Windows just to be 100% sure to get proof of the issue again before booting a linux live image and this time it didn't happen.
Graphics drivers and DSC
Checked changelogs of the few Nvidia driver versions that are newer than mine (556.12). No fixes in them that might be related to this. However, with driver update 545.84 (so, older than mine) Nvidia claimed to have fixed the following: "Some monitors may display random black screen flicker when in Display Stream Compression mode [4034096]". Interesting. Earlier I read about a bug with AMD cards displaying a black screen (for too long) during mode switching / alt-tabbing when DSC was used and apparently it can cause issues with Nvidia cards as well with g-sync and/or multi monitor setups.
Firmware
The monitor is on firmware F07 = latest, for which the release notes say: "1. Fixed the issues when switch to 4K 144hz timing." Which doesn't give me much confidence in its 144Hz capabilities, maybe it only happens at 144Hz. I've only recently started using 144Hz by default on the desktop where before I used 120Hz. Reason being I wanted the ability to run g-synced games with an fps cap of 120 without hitting the upper limit of the sync range. I do recall F07 fixed an issue with highlighted text in explorer not being displayed correctly at 144Hz. That's what allowed me to switch to 144. Maybe 144Hz (10bit) is a bit of a stretch for its internal circuitry.
DSC / Bandwidth
Noticed there's only one DSC toggle in the OSD and it's for Type-C which I don't use. The DP cable is rated for 32.4 Gbit/s HBR3, 8K60 (7680 x 4320). Time to do some math. 4K 144Hz at 8bit is 35.83 Gbps and I even have it set to 10bit. So, must be using DSC then? Switched to 8bit now, since 10bit only to then compress it more when not using HDR in the first place seems pointless. Even 8bit at 144Hz still exceeds HBR3 spec (32.4 Gbps), it's 35.83 Gbps so it's most likely still using DSC. I don't recall the issue happening when I used 120Hz though must admit I'm not 100% sure but that was at 10bit and that too is 35.83 Gbps thus requires DSC all the same. Therefore even though I can't completely rule it out at this point, it is not likely to be an issue caused by a DSC related bug. If I had been using 120Hz 8bit rather than 10bit before, then I would not have been using DSC before and am using it now, therefore DSC could've been suspect. However... not the case. DSC was used and still is.
Nearly bricked the FV43U
Somehow, magically, G-sync got disabled in NVCP so I enabled it again and it sent the monitor into an endless power cycle loop. Pulling the DP cable nor power cable temporarily, helped. I hit the reset button, and while in UEFI because the graphics driver isn't active there I was able to enter the OSD menu and disable g-sync in there. That allowed me to boot into Windows again. I re-enabled g-sync and poof, right back into the monitor endless power cycle loop. At that point I figured this is the end for my FV43U at least as far as G-sync support goes, but I managed to get it out of its endless cycle by turning it on and off a bunch of times while it was turning itself on and off perpetually. From then on, enabling g-sync no longer sent it into a new endless loop and rebooting the PC (read: loading the graphics driver) no longer did either.
The only thing I can think of that triggered the endless power cycling is re-enabling G-sync while the monitor was set to a non standard 100Hz for testing, a refresh rate that I've used countless times before in and out of g-sync mode, without it causing an endless loop problem.
The original issue is still there: when I switch it on, it displays the signal, goes dark, spends a handful of seconds in that state, then turns on again and stays on. Sometimes throwing in a couple of blinks afterwards (going black twice very quickly) for good measure. I'd like to know what does this. It still happens even when g-sync is disabled both in NVCP and the OSD menu. After telling Win11 to only use the FV43U and ignore the 2nd monitor, it still happens. So it does not seem to be related to either g-sync and/or multi-monitor.
Update - YCbCr test
As a test, I temporarily switched from RGB to YCbCr. That changes the behavior: that makes it a 12 second process rather than 18 and it only turns on once instead of twice, near the end of the 12 seconds strobing the output 4-5 times before settling down. It doesn't matter whether 422 or 444 is used, it's the RGB vs YCbCr that makes a difference, not the bandwidth requirement. In RGB mode even at 60Hz the panel turns on twice and takes 18 seconds so it definitely isn't related to DSC. If you ask me it's a driver issue. One that I can't fix; I am already using the latest monitor driver and nearly the latest Nvidia driver for which there isn't a newer replacement with any changes related to any of this. While YCbCr makes the process a little quicker, using it forced limited dynamic range output (which the display then detects and converts to full range) so I've switched back to RGB.
Do AMD cards do this too? I'm pretty sure the average 60Hz office monitor hooked up to onboard Intel graphics turns on pretty snappy, with none of this on/off/on again flicker flicker nonsense.
It is still connected to the same 3080 using the same DP cable it's always been, one of the best money could buy at the time I got the monitor. If it was a cable issue it'd be random. For the record, I keep HDR switched off in Windows settings and G-sync is configured to only apply to fullscreen applications. The panel is set to 144Hz. There is a 2nd monitor attached as well, also running at 144Hz and it doesn't seem to matter whether that one is switched on or not. And no, that one doesn't have this issue.
For a moment I wondered whether it might be related to having disabled HDCP (a form of copy protection for video and audio) in Windows registry to stop Spotify's website randomly turning off the display. Spotify have known for years that their website randomly turns off certain (mostly Gigabyte) displays, only their website does that not the desktop app, but it would surprise me if it's related to my issue of the monitor turning on twice 'cause the latter happens even when there's no Spotify or other media playing or game running. Nvidia control panel says HDCP support is disabled in the OS so clearly the graphics driver is aware of it and therefore there shouldn't be a 2nd handshake of sorts. It's probably something else.
When I get a chance I'll see if it happens on Linux too.
Inconsistency
It occurs at least 90% of the itme, but not always. I've just turned it off and on again on Windows just to be 100% sure to get proof of the issue again before booting a linux live image and this time it didn't happen.
Graphics drivers and DSC
Checked changelogs of the few Nvidia driver versions that are newer than mine (556.12). No fixes in them that might be related to this. However, with driver update 545.84 (so, older than mine) Nvidia claimed to have fixed the following: "Some monitors may display random black screen flicker when in Display Stream Compression mode [4034096]". Interesting. Earlier I read about a bug with AMD cards displaying a black screen (for too long) during mode switching / alt-tabbing when DSC was used and apparently it can cause issues with Nvidia cards as well with g-sync and/or multi monitor setups.
Firmware
The monitor is on firmware F07 = latest, for which the release notes say: "1. Fixed the issues when switch to 4K 144hz timing." Which doesn't give me much confidence in its 144Hz capabilities, maybe it only happens at 144Hz. I've only recently started using 144Hz by default on the desktop where before I used 120Hz. Reason being I wanted the ability to run g-synced games with an fps cap of 120 without hitting the upper limit of the sync range. I do recall F07 fixed an issue with highlighted text in explorer not being displayed correctly at 144Hz. That's what allowed me to switch to 144. Maybe 144Hz (10bit) is a bit of a stretch for its internal circuitry.
DSC / Bandwidth
Noticed there's only one DSC toggle in the OSD and it's for Type-C which I don't use. The DP cable is rated for 32.4 Gbit/s HBR3, 8K60 (7680 x 4320). Time to do some math. 4K 144Hz at 8bit is 35.83 Gbps and I even have it set to 10bit. So, must be using DSC then? Switched to 8bit now, since 10bit only to then compress it more when not using HDR in the first place seems pointless. Even 8bit at 144Hz still exceeds HBR3 spec (32.4 Gbps), it's 35.83 Gbps so it's most likely still using DSC. I don't recall the issue happening when I used 120Hz though must admit I'm not 100% sure but that was at 10bit and that too is 35.83 Gbps thus requires DSC all the same. Therefore even though I can't completely rule it out at this point, it is not likely to be an issue caused by a DSC related bug. If I had been using 120Hz 8bit rather than 10bit before, then I would not have been using DSC before and am using it now, therefore DSC could've been suspect. However... not the case. DSC was used and still is.
Nearly bricked the FV43U
Somehow, magically, G-sync got disabled in NVCP so I enabled it again and it sent the monitor into an endless power cycle loop. Pulling the DP cable nor power cable temporarily, helped. I hit the reset button, and while in UEFI because the graphics driver isn't active there I was able to enter the OSD menu and disable g-sync in there. That allowed me to boot into Windows again. I re-enabled g-sync and poof, right back into the monitor endless power cycle loop. At that point I figured this is the end for my FV43U at least as far as G-sync support goes, but I managed to get it out of its endless cycle by turning it on and off a bunch of times while it was turning itself on and off perpetually. From then on, enabling g-sync no longer sent it into a new endless loop and rebooting the PC (read: loading the graphics driver) no longer did either.
The only thing I can think of that triggered the endless power cycling is re-enabling G-sync while the monitor was set to a non standard 100Hz for testing, a refresh rate that I've used countless times before in and out of g-sync mode, without it causing an endless loop problem.
The original issue is still there: when I switch it on, it displays the signal, goes dark, spends a handful of seconds in that state, then turns on again and stays on. Sometimes throwing in a couple of blinks afterwards (going black twice very quickly) for good measure. I'd like to know what does this. It still happens even when g-sync is disabled both in NVCP and the OSD menu. After telling Win11 to only use the FV43U and ignore the 2nd monitor, it still happens. So it does not seem to be related to either g-sync and/or multi-monitor.
Update - YCbCr test
As a test, I temporarily switched from RGB to YCbCr. That changes the behavior: that makes it a 12 second process rather than 18 and it only turns on once instead of twice, near the end of the 12 seconds strobing the output 4-5 times before settling down. It doesn't matter whether 422 or 444 is used, it's the RGB vs YCbCr that makes a difference, not the bandwidth requirement. In RGB mode even at 60Hz the panel turns on twice and takes 18 seconds so it definitely isn't related to DSC. If you ask me it's a driver issue. One that I can't fix; I am already using the latest monitor driver and nearly the latest Nvidia driver for which there isn't a newer replacement with any changes related to any of this. While YCbCr makes the process a little quicker, using it forced limited dynamic range output (which the display then detects and converts to full range) so I've switched back to RGB.
Do AMD cards do this too? I'm pretty sure the average 60Hz office monitor hooked up to onboard Intel graphics turns on pretty snappy, with none of this on/off/on again flicker flicker nonsense.
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Sounds familiar. If it goes like mine eventually your monitor will display no picture at all on any input. In the meantime I'll have to pay $45 to throw mine in a landfill.
I would not buy another Gigabyte product just because of the poor warranty support alone.
Roen
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2021
- Messages
- 113
Sorry to hear that, I feel your pain, but let's make one thing abundantly clear. A buddy of mine with a monitor not from Gigabyte has the same experience with his RTX 4000 series card. If you've read my post through to the end you know my conlusion, and his, is that this is a driver issue and the behavior is different between RBG and YCbCr. If the montor were starting to fail, and there is no actual sign of that, it would likely do so equally in both modes. So that is not what's happening here.
The infinite loop that might sound worrying happened when I set the monitor to a custom added, not officially supported 100Hz then enabled G-sync. Not exactly an expected way to use it, and we haven't proven whose fault it was either, the graphics driver's, the videocard's or the monitor's. You're just kind of venting which is understandable given your situation but not very constructive. It kinda demotes my post from an investigation that I hope people contribute to, to "that guy's FV43U is probably just a failing dud too so let's not think about it, the end." Which would ruin all the effort that I've put into writing what I did. I'm here to share what I've discovered and hopefully learn something I don't already know. There's no need to quote my post in yours, it has nothing to do with mine.
To be fair, I did say this:
The infinite loop that might sound worrying happened when I set the monitor to a custom added, not officially supported 100Hz then enabled G-sync. Not exactly an expected way to use it, and we haven't proven whose fault it was either, the graphics driver's, the videocard's or the monitor's. You're just kind of venting which is understandable given your situation but not very constructive. It kinda demotes my post from an investigation that I hope people contribute to, to "that guy's FV43U is probably just a failing dud too so let's not think about it, the end." Which would ruin all the effort that I've put into writing what I did. I'm here to share what I've discovered and hopefully learn something I don't already know. There's no need to quote my post in yours, it has nothing to do with mine.
To be fair, I did say this:
It's where the mind goes for a minute in that situation of course, but triggering a problem by using it in an unsupported way is no indication that the monitor is starting to fail. 100Hz is not in the Supported Timing List in the manual - I added that mode manually with SRE and enabling G-sync while running 100Hz was kind of an odd move on my part.
When it comes to huge organisations like this, warranty support can vary a lot by country and so do consumer protection laws. I'm in Europe so if I ever need their (warranty) support my experience may well be vastly different. It really sucks when your monitor breaks but it's just bad luck. Any tech product can break regardless of brand. If you boycott a brand anytime something of theirs breaks you'll run out of brands to buy from. My electric kettle now turns all the lights off. I believe the failure rate of Samsung monitors is much higher than Gigabytes' whose products generally seem pretty solid to me actually, I even used a Gigabyte mobo for a PC build that I've used for ages and it was solid as can be. There's even a clear difference in build quality between the FV43U and most other monitors brands I've used and that's part of why this one has no backlight bleed. Compared to Asus and LGs that often come with backlight bleed and a dead pixel out of the box, this monitor is built like a brick shithouse. Credit where it's due, but there is no excuse for bad customer service. If mine breaks prematurely for what you can expect from such a device, even if outside of warranty I'm still protected by EU law and the seller would be liable to provide a replacement. OTOH what you don't have in the US is 50% income tax and 21% sales tax plus a 1-to-1 "conversion" rate from USD to € for tech products, so it's really a case of "pick your poison".
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Not sure I can help, but I have some questions/suggestions that might help to narrow down possible sources of the issue.
Does this occur after you have logged in to Windows? or it looses the signal during BIOS boot logo screen?
If this occurs when you are in Windows, then try to think of what has been changed(windows update? graphics driver?) since this is happening.
Do you have FV43U driver installed? or device manager sees the display as 'Generic monitor'?
I also see you say that you face the issue no matter if the 2nd monitor is switched on or off. But what if you completely disconnect it? What you describe might be windows trying to decide on which monitor will be displayed.
You said that you use the same DP cable you always used so this shouldn't be the culprit. But it will make no harm to try with an HDMI cable using HDMI 1 port of the monitor in case you have a spare one.
Did you try to unplug the power cord from the monitor and re-connect it after 2-3 minutes so to power cycle the device?
Under monitor's build in menu there is an option 'Reset all'. Did you try it? Take note of all your settings cause they will be restored to default values though.
Does this occur after you have logged in to Windows? or it looses the signal during BIOS boot logo screen?
If this occurs when you are in Windows, then try to think of what has been changed(windows update? graphics driver?) since this is happening.
Do you have FV43U driver installed? or device manager sees the display as 'Generic monitor'?
I also see you say that you face the issue no matter if the 2nd monitor is switched on or off. But what if you completely disconnect it? What you describe might be windows trying to decide on which monitor will be displayed.
You said that you use the same DP cable you always used so this shouldn't be the culprit. But it will make no harm to try with an HDMI cable using HDMI 1 port of the monitor in case you have a spare one.
Did you try to unplug the power cord from the monitor and re-connect it after 2-3 minutes so to power cycle the device?
Under monitor's build in menu there is an option 'Reset all'. Did you try it? Take note of all your settings cause they will be restored to default values though.
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Roen
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2021
- Messages
- 113
First let's see if this is an issue I'm having or one that everyone with an FV43U on Windows is having but not noticing. While in Windows 11 (or even 10), use the remote or physical button on the monitor to switch it off. Wait a few seconds and turn it back on again. Does it start to show the output and stay on, or does it only show it for a few seconds, turn off again for several seconds, then turn back on before staying on? An online buddy of mine has a 32" Gigabyte and his does this too. My Asus does not. My Asus being 27" with a g-sync module is faster at mode changes to begin with so switching on takes 2-3 seconds while the FV43U takes 18 seconds. It's not waking from standby that's slow, it's waking after having been turned off via physical / remote control button press. Waking from standby it does in one action, without it going black and then back on again.
In UEFI and after booting the Linux live boot image the refresh rate is 60Hz as there's no nvidia driver running, 60 is the only option. So right now I can't tell you if it would happen on Linux too if graphics drivers were installed that would allow 120/144Hz.
My Asus doesn't do this, on the same Windows system, with the same cable, on the same GPU DP port. If it was a software issue or nvidia driver bug both would be affected.
I decided to check Event Viewer and found something interesting:
Whenever you power on the FV43U several of the same Informational event (not an Error event, an important distinction) get written to the Windows Event Viewer --> System Log.
Display Event ID: 4107 A caller specified the SDC_FORCE_MODE_ENUMERATION flag in a call to the SetDisplayConfig() API.
These events are generated when the FV43U's power button is pressed, not when the Asus' power button is pressed. (Again, both tested in a single monitor setup without the other plugged in after a cold boot. And this is with the Asus actually power cycling due to having its "DP deep sleep" setting enabled.)
I googled the description of the event. I'll talk you through the results.
First report:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...meration/1e74d0c9-13cf-4473-9e3e-0bf8ef4098e1
I'm starting us off easy: this person doesn't state having a problem or not, but he was just curious. Note he's on Windows 10 with a 3080. I'm on Win11 with a 3080.
Second report:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...-id-4107/27057875-b963-4f02-a1b0-007f1570f674
This user says: "For a while now a few computers have had their monitors randomly flicker throughout the day (going black and flicking for a while a minute). This happens on Dell and ASUS monitors as well as Dell and Custom-built pcs. I pulled up event viewer and then I saw this event." and: "This is on multiple computers, with various different hardware. But yes, all drivers are up to date. Replaced the cables multiple times. Replaced the monitors. Adjusted the display settings as well. So far nothing has worked."
Third report:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows10/comments/kdfzvl/can_anyone_shed_some_light_on_this_message_in_my/
He says: "I feel like it coincided with my screen flashing black for half a second during full screen gaming."
Interesting, isn't it?
Now I need to be as clear as possible about the definition of the problem. Mine does not lose the signal randomly during gaming. It "just" turns on twice when powered on after it's been powered off and that process takes about 18 seconds, if set to RGB mode and above 60Hz. I can work around this by never turning it off and only putting the monitor in "stand by" after which it wakes up faster and in one go.
That said, I have recently noticed it dropping the signal on very rare occasions only when using Microsoft's Snipping tool, the program that lets you crop and draw on a screenshot. Never from anything else or even during long gaming sessions. And again, it's only the Gigabyte. When I'm using the Asus and Gigabyte in a dual monitor setup the Asus couldn't care less about the snipping tool, no matter what DP cable I use for which monitor. The Asus always turns on fast even in a dual setup.
I did swap the DP cable for another and it makes no difference. The Asus doesn't do this (turn on twice) even using the same cable and DP output of the GPU. I've tried all of the DP outputs with both monitors, there was no difference depending on what port was used. If the Asus can act normal on DP why can't the Gigabyte?
With only the FV43U connected, so in a single monitor setup, after I swapped the DP cable I had it powering on in 1 go (again: above 60Hz and in RGB mode because below 60 and outside of RGB mode it doesn't happen). I was even able to repeat it, but this only lasted a couple of minutes after which it went right back to the slow "double power on".
If you ask me, it's the Gigabyte's firmware and/or circuitry, because my buddy has a different Gigabyte that also needs to turn itself on twice when you turn it on once. I could try flashing back to older firmware, assuming it would let me. Gigabyte don't have older versions on their website. The only older ones I have are F06 and F04. I don't know which version is best to switch to if I'm not gonna use F07. What version fixed the panel getting really hot?
I did save the release notes for F06, and the ones for F07 (which mine's on), are still on the site:
F07
1. Fixed the issues when switch to 4K 144hz timing.
(2. Change Picture mode option "VS mode" to "Arcade".)
F06
1. Fixed the issue that monitor can't be awaken by HDMI input source.
2. Fixed the issue when switching refresh rate in 4K resolution.
(3. Fixed HDR brightness issue.)
Maybe one of those changes started this?
When you power it off then on again wihle in UEFI or after booting a Linux live boot image the monitor turns on only one time like it should. It's only on Windows, and only in RGB mode, and only if Hz exceeds 60. For some reason 60Hz and YCbCr444 switch on in one go and therefore overall much quicker but with some flickering at the end.
In UEFI and after booting the Linux live boot image the refresh rate is 60Hz as there's no nvidia driver running, 60 is the only option. So right now I can't tell you if it would happen on Linux too if graphics drivers were installed that would allow 120/144Hz.
There's nothing to point to other than the FV43U firmware. It's on F07 and when I bought it, it was on F03 or F04.
My Asus doesn't do this, on the same Windows system, with the same cable, on the same GPU DP port. If it was a software issue or nvidia driver bug both would be affected.
Driver is installed.
I decided to test after a cold boot without the other monitor attached. Even in a single monitor setup, my Asus doesn't do this, the FV43U does. The Asus has an OSD toggle for "DP deep sleep". When that's disabled and you press the physical power button to turn it off then on again, it turns on the exact moment you press it, instantly. When "DP deep sleep is on, it takes about 2 seconds and it only turns on once. The Gigabyte lacks that setting and defaults to powering down when the button (or remote) is used to turn it off.
I decided to check Event Viewer and found something interesting:
Whenever you power on the FV43U several of the same Informational event (not an Error event, an important distinction) get written to the Windows Event Viewer --> System Log.
Display Event ID: 4107 A caller specified the SDC_FORCE_MODE_ENUMERATION flag in a call to the SetDisplayConfig() API.
These events are generated when the FV43U's power button is pressed, not when the Asus' power button is pressed. (Again, both tested in a single monitor setup without the other plugged in after a cold boot. And this is with the Asus actually power cycling due to having its "DP deep sleep" setting enabled.)
I googled the description of the event. I'll talk you through the results.
First report:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...meration/1e74d0c9-13cf-4473-9e3e-0bf8ef4098e1
I'm starting us off easy: this person doesn't state having a problem or not, but he was just curious. Note he's on Windows 10 with a 3080. I'm on Win11 with a 3080.
Second report:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...-id-4107/27057875-b963-4f02-a1b0-007f1570f674
This user says: "For a while now a few computers have had their monitors randomly flicker throughout the day (going black and flicking for a while a minute). This happens on Dell and ASUS monitors as well as Dell and Custom-built pcs. I pulled up event viewer and then I saw this event." and: "This is on multiple computers, with various different hardware. But yes, all drivers are up to date. Replaced the cables multiple times. Replaced the monitors. Adjusted the display settings as well. So far nothing has worked."
Third report:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows10/comments/kdfzvl/can_anyone_shed_some_light_on_this_message_in_my/
He says: "I feel like it coincided with my screen flashing black for half a second during full screen gaming."
Interesting, isn't it?
Now I need to be as clear as possible about the definition of the problem. Mine does not lose the signal randomly during gaming. It "just" turns on twice when powered on after it's been powered off and that process takes about 18 seconds, if set to RGB mode and above 60Hz. I can work around this by never turning it off and only putting the monitor in "stand by" after which it wakes up faster and in one go.
That said, I have recently noticed it dropping the signal on very rare occasions only when using Microsoft's Snipping tool, the program that lets you crop and draw on a screenshot. Never from anything else or even during long gaming sessions. And again, it's only the Gigabyte. When I'm using the Asus and Gigabyte in a dual monitor setup the Asus couldn't care less about the snipping tool, no matter what DP cable I use for which monitor. The Asus always turns on fast even in a dual setup.
For PC you should always use DP. The Gigabyte has HDMI 2.1 but like certain other Gigabyte models its "HDMI 2.1" is actually still limited to 24 Gbps, DP is not. 4K at 80Hz is already 24 Gbps of bandwidth (without compression). With HDMI you wouldn't be able to use chroma 444 at 120Hz.
I did swap the DP cable for another and it makes no difference. The Asus doesn't do this (turn on twice) even using the same cable and DP output of the GPU. I've tried all of the DP outputs with both monitors, there was no difference depending on what port was used. If the Asus can act normal on DP why can't the Gigabyte?
Yes.
Did that, makes no difference.
With only the FV43U connected, so in a single monitor setup, after I swapped the DP cable I had it powering on in 1 go (again: above 60Hz and in RGB mode because below 60 and outside of RGB mode it doesn't happen). I was even able to repeat it, but this only lasted a couple of minutes after which it went right back to the slow "double power on".
If you ask me, it's the Gigabyte's firmware and/or circuitry, because my buddy has a different Gigabyte that also needs to turn itself on twice when you turn it on once. I could try flashing back to older firmware, assuming it would let me. Gigabyte don't have older versions on their website. The only older ones I have are F06 and F04. I don't know which version is best to switch to if I'm not gonna use F07. What version fixed the panel getting really hot?
I did save the release notes for F06, and the ones for F07 (which mine's on), are still on the site:
F07
1. Fixed the issues when switch to 4K 144hz timing.
(2. Change Picture mode option "VS mode" to "Arcade".)
F06
1. Fixed the issue that monitor can't be awaken by HDMI input source.
2. Fixed the issue when switching refresh rate in 4K resolution.
(3. Fixed HDR brightness issue.)
Maybe one of those changes started this?
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Can you by chance try the monitor with another windows installation? Maybe you have a spare laptop so to quickly check.
I think you already lost a lot of time in troubleshooting and investigating.
I wouldn't be of course happy having this problem, but in my opinion it does not worth to insist given the monitor is fully functional after the 18 seconds delay.
I would consider:
1) rolling back to an earlier firmware and see if the issue persists
2) putting the monitor in stand by(cause you said this works for you)
3) live with the problem(18 seconds is not the end of the world given monitor works as per specs)
I think you already lost a lot of time in troubleshooting and investigating.
I wouldn't be of course happy having this problem, but in my opinion it does not worth to insist given the monitor is fully functional after the 18 seconds delay.
I would consider:
1) rolling back to an earlier firmware and see if the issue persists
2) putting the monitor in stand by(cause you said this works for you)
3) live with the problem(18 seconds is not the end of the world given monitor works as per specs)
Roen
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Eyejoy, would you mind doing this test I mentioned?
Given the occasional 'blackout' when using the snipping tool, I'm not convinced that only using standby is a full solution... I'm going to use it this way for now and will keep an eye on any further blackouts. If they happen again and there's again no GPU driver crash in the eventlog, I'm gonna try and roll back the firmware.
I don't have a 2nd system/laptop to hook it up to, but the Asus seems quite happy on this system so I'm not sure what the point of that would be. I guess I could hook the FV43U up to the onboard graphics that I currently keep disabled in UEFI. Just to see if it's only with nvidia drivers/cards plus gigabyte. It's probably not 'cause I saw a report of these eventlog events even from someone with an AMD card. I'd still have to go back to using my 3080 for gaming regardless.
Anyone still have F05 saved? If it's the firmware it was probably introduced by F06 or F07. I don't have F05, I could try to roll back to F04 just as a test though.
Given the occasional 'blackout' when using the snipping tool, I'm not convinced that only using standby is a full solution... I'm going to use it this way for now and will keep an eye on any further blackouts. If they happen again and there's again no GPU driver crash in the eventlog, I'm gonna try and roll back the firmware.
I don't have a 2nd system/laptop to hook it up to, but the Asus seems quite happy on this system so I'm not sure what the point of that would be. I guess I could hook the FV43U up to the onboard graphics that I currently keep disabled in UEFI. Just to see if it's only with nvidia drivers/cards plus gigabyte. It's probably not 'cause I saw a report of these eventlog events even from someone with an AMD card. I'd still have to go back to using my 3080 for gaming regardless.
Anyone still have F05 saved? If it's the firmware it was probably introduced by F06 or F07. I don't have F05, I could try to roll back to F04 just as a test though.
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Roen
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Thanks. What firmware version are you on and what's your GPU?
Check out this post on Guru 3D:
https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/a-caller-specified-the-sdc_force_mode_enumeration.437153/
Since my buddy's 32" Gigabyte turns on twice too I thought I'd check if this dude too has a Gigabyte monitor. He mentioned it in another of his posts:
Bingo. So why him (27" Gigabyte + 3080 from Gigabyte), me (43" Gigabyte + 3080 from MSI) and my buddy (32" Gigabyte + 4070), but not you?
There's some criteria to trigger it which I assume you have: above 60Hz, RGB mode (not YCbCr). Are you using DP or HDMI?
P.S. From an older post:
Check out this post on Guru 3D:
https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/a-caller-specified-the-sdc_force_mode_enumeration.437153/
Since my buddy's 32" Gigabyte turns on twice too I thought I'd check if this dude too has a Gigabyte monitor. He mentioned it in another of his posts:
Bingo. So why him (27" Gigabyte + 3080 from Gigabyte), me (43" Gigabyte + 3080 from MSI) and my buddy (32" Gigabyte + 4070), but not you?
There's some criteria to trigger it which I assume you have: above 60Hz, RGB mode (not YCbCr). Are you using DP or HDMI?
P.S. From an older post:
Not just that, you wanna cap even lower so your GPU load never reaches max. When you max it out you add lag and frametime variance whether you use g-sync or not. Regardless of that 2-3 frames isn't enough of a buffer 'cause it's an averaged number (frames per second) and somewhere within 1 second you may still hit the limit yet average 2-3 below. Same principle applies to capping to avoid max GPU load, it's an average so even if 99% is the highest number all play session, you're likely hitting max repeatedly. Measurements by Battle(non)sense have shown 97% is good, capping fps any lower doesn't offer additional benefit.
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I know that an HDCP signal (eg Netflix in the app or in edge) causes a blanking and then re handshake. Other than that I do not see this behavior 3080 / DP / w11. I too would suggest a check with a different source - console, BD player, roku apple tv, via hdmi to fully eliminate all the components that could possibly cause an issue identified so far - port, cable, controller board, video card, OS, software/ driver stack.
If it still happens it’s the monitor- controller board, if not you’ve narrowed it down to the rest.
If it still happens it’s the monitor- controller board, if not you’ve narrowed it down to the rest.
Looking for some more clarifications regarding my upgrade options:
LG OLED G3 will offer better image quality with only drawbacks the risk of burn in and the 120Hz refresh rate
True or False?
With a 4k projector I will have a bigger screen and more living room space, but even the most expensive 4k projector cannot offer the image quality of a 4k monitor(FV43U in this case) or a 4k TV
True or False?
I bought an open box 42" LG C3 for $630 and I'm happy with it- much superior PQ compared to the FV43U. I did buy the 5yr Geek Squad warranty (covers burn in) for $125 just in case- so I really don't have any issues using it as my daily Win 11 driver. If it burns in they'll probably just give me a refund.
Roen
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Thank you. Temporarily using your settings, the problem persisted. Until...
Thank you for saying that, you reminded me that I had disabled HDCP in registry to solve a problem: with HDCP enabled the Spotify website (not the desktop app) on occasion randomly turns off the monitor until you turn it back on. The cause was hard to find but other Spotify website users did report it many many years ago and nothing was ever done about it.
I re-enabled HDCP in the registry, rebooted, and now I can power cycle the FV43U in less than 5 seconds (instead of 18) and it only turns on once: problem solved. Counterintuitive, because you'd think having HDCP enabled might cause blanking like you said. Now I just need to avoid using the Spotify website but I had already moved on to using their desktop app anyway. (For the record, the double handshake problem when HDCP is disabled in the OS occurs irrespective of what programs are or aren't running, so even after a fresh reboot.)
While I'm at it, to say thanks I'll share some things I discovered recently.
Why colors suck after monitor driver installation
When you install the monitor driver, the ICC profile that comes with it ruins the monitor's colors. The ICC profile gets set as default automatically (unless I forgot having done that manually) in Windows color management. This is a wide gamut profile that aims to desaturate the image to compensate for the fact that it's a wide color gamut panel while SDR content including the desktop is sRGB, but it overcompensates by a lot: you get washed out colors. You basically get emulated sRGB, the color depth from the stone age even though the panel is capable of much better. Most people are used to deeper colors than sRGB. When HDR is not enabled, that ICC profile applies and colors look washed out as a result. When HDR is enabled, the desktop still looks washed out because the desktop is SDR. This might be why some people keep HDR on the entire time, not realizing that the reason the desktop looks better or at least not worse than without HDR is that without it the desktop is washed out too (just like in HDR) due to the ICC profile from Gigabyte that's set as default for SDR. So in the color management settings window I added the standard sRGB profile and set that as default instead, instant way better color (HDR off). Now Windows is no longer restricting the monitor's color to the limited sRGB color space; it now expects the monitor to be sRGB. It's not, so now its wider color space actually shows. The colors now don't feel overcooked like I've seen on other wide gamut monitor's I've had, they merely as they should be and no longer washed out. Only the reds are a little much this way - the panel's widest color space is the reds - but that's easy to fix in the OSD menu, details below.
(click thumbnail to enlarge)
Likely, your Color Management window will have Gigabyte's FV43U.icc profile in this list and set as default instead of sRGB. You don't see it in my screenshot 'cause I deleted it, it's that bad. I clicked the Add button to add sRGB then set that as default. Then fine tune color using the OSD menu: 6-axis R-saturation down to 43-45 is all it takes, also helps reduce red ghosting for brown tones in motion so I use 43. The profile at the bottom is the one created by going through the "Windows HDR Calibration" app and only applies to HDR. You do not need to touch the 2nd or 3rd tab (all profiles / advanced). Most applications need a restart before they'll pick up on any changes made to Windows color management settings. Steam needs a restart, the Photos app (the image viewer in Windows) does not.
Improving Auto HDR
Auto HDR in place of the other alternatives for games that don't have actual native HDR makes everything too bright, raises the gamma which looks pretty bad. You can activate an HDR color profile that corrects the gamma. Grab these color profiles and add them as "Advanced Color" (= HDR) profiles by ticking that checkbox when adding them. Grab 100 through 400, skip the last two. The end result looks like the screenshot below. Now you can select a darker profile as needed by setting one as default: 400 darkens gamma the most, 100 the least. Leave the window open so that when you're done playing your Auto HDR game you can easily set your HDR Calibration profile as default again. To pin the color management control panel to Start, go to C:\Windows\System32\ and right click colorcpl.exe.
(click thumbnail to enlarge)
Thank you guys for helping me to more quickly narrow down what was going on with my monitor. Hopefully the above tips help you get more out of yours too.
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Roen
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Or not.... it was only temporary: sometimes it doesn't have the issue and that can mess with test results. It turns on twice again every time now. I don't care anymore because what re-enabling HDCP did do was make the process much faster. It only takes 9 seconds instead of 18. I can live with that. I've set my PC's power button to toggle monitor standby to get around this issue anyway now, so as long as I don't have random blanking in my future I'm good.
It looks like these are possibly no longer being produced - it seems they are out of stock in most cases or the price is heading higer. Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy them used? It seems to me even used they are often going for over $600 when they were recently offered new around that price.
I put mine aside for now in favor of one of the new QD-oled 32" monitors. I may entertain selling it locally. Not 100% certain but if you are local to Long Island, NY; I will think about it.
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I'm surprised there hasn't been a successor released yet (ie: FO43U).
I'm in Miami.
I use my monitor 16 hours a day 90% for work with nonstop static images being displayed, so I don't think I'd be too happy using an OLED, perhaps I'd get an OLED and VA monitor but not just OLED. I'm using a 9-year old 40" 4k Crossover 404k 60hz VA, so not that different from a FV43U, but it has some defects like dead pixels, vertical color bands, and the HDMI port does not work. I'd like 144hz and lower input latency, and I don't think there's a better VA flicker-free 43" out there.
Just reread my post and it could come across as me selling the OLED. I'm saying I would entertain selling the FV43U. Just to clarify.
Yep, understood you mean selling the FV43U, but i assume you mean you bought the OLED because you think it's better than the FV43U.
Better for gaming . Frankly I prefer the FV43U for sheer immersion and anything else outside of gaming. That is why I'm not completely committed to getting rid of it.
I got a used FV43U from Amazon (amazon was the seller) that was described to be in very good condition. It has these two rings distorting the panel messing up the color across the whole panel. It seems like a ripple in the diffusion layer between the LED backlight and the LCD. I'm curious whether this could have happened in shipping, but it seems more like a manufacturing defect. Although it messes up solid color the panel is still pretty usable.I have until Jan 31 to return it so I'm watching to see what I can replace it with given the FV43U is no longer being produced. Perhaps new similar monitors will be announced at CES 2025, looking for 40" + 16:9 4K at 144hz+ for primarily working & some gaming.
Other defects I've noticed overall that seem specific to the monitor:
- the far edges of the screen are not visible. For instance, I cannot see the lines at the bottom of the screen in windows 10 that indicate whether the program is open. I have to move my head a foot down to be able to see it.
- black levels don't seem all that great even for VA. My 10-year-old VA panel has much better blacks and color vibrance.
- plenty of issues with text readability on certain settings or color smearing. some settings resolve the issues entirely, but there are tradeoffs.
Other defects I've noticed overall that seem specific to the monitor:
- the far edges of the screen are not visible. For instance, I cannot see the lines at the bottom of the screen in windows 10 that indicate whether the program is open. I have to move my head a foot down to be able to see it.
- black levels don't seem all that great even for VA. My 10-year-old VA panel has much better blacks and color vibrance.
- plenty of issues with text readability on certain settings or color smearing. some settings resolve the issues entirely, but there are tradeoffs.
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xDiVolatilX
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You seem like a good candidate for a 43" QN90D. I almost bought one myself recently but held back because my QN90B is so damn good already.
It has PWM while the FV43U is flicker-free. I usually use my monitor at brightness level that is somewhat low.
xDiVolatilX
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Interesting. I've never noticed any flicker
I honestly don't know. Mine is still sitting in a corner waiting to go in the trash. Remember you can find the LG C4 at times in the $800 range at times and it's way better than this one.
They are selling as low as $400 and up to $600, plus shipping which could be $50-$120.
I'm interested in buying one & located in Miami, but not sure if there's a way to safely do a private sale long distance. I have a defective one and probably want to return it while i'm still able.
I'm interested in buying one & located in Miami, but not sure if there's a way to safely do a private sale long distance. I have a defective one and probably want to return it while i'm still able.
I returned my faulty FV43U back to Amazon.
The #1 thing I love about my Crossover 404K is the extreme 5000:1 native contrast ratio. On a completely black screen with the backlight on (no local dimming on the monitor) there is almost zero perceptible light coming through - it practically looks OLED level, and I have no idea how that works and why VA panels these days can't do it. The FV43U and QN90D, theoretically more modern panels, have lower native contrast ratios. To me local dimming is pretty annoying and at least didn't really work well on the FV43U.
These pics compare FV43U vs 440K on a cloned output from my GPU. The background on the sides is grey. I could never get the colors looking very good on the FV3U, where if I tried to get the whites to look white instead of yellow, it would require a much higher brightness and eliminate the possibility of seeing any black, and vice versa for getting strong black.
I'm just going to get an OLED 42" next and see how it goes, because I don't think I'm going to find any VA or IPS panel that compares with the 404K.
The #1 thing I love about my Crossover 404K is the extreme 5000:1 native contrast ratio. On a completely black screen with the backlight on (no local dimming on the monitor) there is almost zero perceptible light coming through - it practically looks OLED level, and I have no idea how that works and why VA panels these days can't do it. The FV43U and QN90D, theoretically more modern panels, have lower native contrast ratios. To me local dimming is pretty annoying and at least didn't really work well on the FV43U.
These pics compare FV43U vs 440K on a cloned output from my GPU. The background on the sides is grey. I could never get the colors looking very good on the FV3U, where if I tried to get the whites to look white instead of yellow, it would require a much higher brightness and eliminate the possibility of seeing any black, and vice versa for getting strong black.
I'm just going to get an OLED 42" next and see how it goes, because I don't think I'm going to find any VA or IPS panel that compares with the 404K.
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No. Mine is as well. Although right now it's in it's box in the basement because I primarily use an OLED monitor.Mine is still working fine.
Am I the last man standing?
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We love our g3 LG just don't connect it to the Internet.