Gigabyte AORUS FO48U 48" 4K 120Hz OLED

Well the display does have two HDMI ports so you can use both your PC and PS5 via HDMI. But the DisplayPort is fine. Below 48Hz the GPU will just use LFC so your effective range is still 1 - 120

As far as the HDR - By the objective measurements, the LG CX/C1 offers a superior HDR experience. This monitor is clearly capable of offering the same considering it’s the same panel as the C1, but the firmware obviously needs work in that area, and it is unclear if Gigabyte will bother.

With that said, subjectively I find the HDR on this thing to work really nicely. the highlights mixed with the inky blacks offer a dynamic range that really pops compared to other monitors. And compared to my Sony A8H in my living room (which on paper offers similar HDR to the LGs), I didn’t find the experience to feel very different even if RTING’s measurements say it should.
 
OK, I see. Another thing I'd also like to know is how this monitor deals with reflections. Is the same glossy panel as the LG OLED TVs? My room is not so bright and it wouldn't be a huge problem but I personally don't like to sit in front of a giant black mirror.

On the other hand, I don't understand why there are a few reviews of this monitor if it has one of the best panels (if not the best one).
 
Probably because people aren't sure if it's supposed to be a monitor or tv, and different publications usually deal with each.
 
Dr Doakes said:
Hardware Unboxed review

Click to expand...

Thanks. Pretty much confirmed all the findings/comparisons from Rtings.com as well. The Displayport isn't worth all the downgrades. I bet Gigabyte would have a winner on their hands if they just stuck a big ass heatsink on the back of the display and surpassed the LG in SDR & HDR brightness (not sure if it's that easy, but seems to be the case with other TV's). I think that's the only way it's going to compete and can get away with it since computer monitors don't necessarily need to be ultra razer thin like TV's have been trending towards over the years (makes some sense since many people like to wall mount their TV's).
 
They (Gigabyte) could also sell this monitor cheaper than the LG C1 48". I think that would be the best way to compete. But the truth is that the LG TV is 350€ cheaper than this monitor in my country (Spain) and it's a bit hard to choose this option despite of having a really good panel.
 
Yeah real shame it doesn't match the LG CX/C1 performance as the Gigabyte does have a good feature set. Hopefully this is more of a test run for them and if LG does release that 42" model, maybe Gigabyte will make their version with the same panel and correct some of the issues.
 
kasakka said:
Yeah real shame it doesn't match the LG CX/C1 performance as the Gigabyte does have a good feature set. Hopefully this is more of a test run for them and if LG does release that 42" model, maybe Gigabyte will make their version with the same panel and correct some of the issues.
Click to expand...
If I'm not wrong that 42" model will mount an OLED EVO panel which it will not only be a brighter panel but also it will prolong the TV life (specially when you are gonna use it as a PC monitor most of the time).
 
Looks like its intentional on Gigabytes part for the sake of longevity. They do have a 3 year warranty unlike LG’a 1 year.
 
Javsp said:
If I'm not wrong that 42" model will mount an OLED EVO panel which it will not only be a brighter panel but also it will prolong the TV life (specially when you are gonna use it as a PC monitor most of the time).
Click to expand...

Some of LG's 48" C1s use "Evo" panels already. They're basically phasing out the old panels and using the non-evo panels they have left for every model except the G1 which is guaranteed to have an evo panel.
 
sharknice said:
Some of LG's 48" C1s use "Evo" panels already. They're basically phasing out the old panels and using the non-evo panels they have left for every model except the G1 which is guaranteed to have an evo panel.
Click to expand...
Really? I thought EVO panels were exclusive to G1 and superior series in 2021. Is there any way to recognize an EVO panel in a C1 TV?
 
Yeah you go into the service menu and it will show the panel model as WBE. WBC is the older non Evo.

There is no way to tell from just the box or serial number.
 
Any of you guys still enjoying the FO48U despite not measuring as well as the C1? I still like mine, and funny enough it allows FreeSync Over DP to work for me on Linux, while HDMI 2.1 VRR and FreeSync Over HDMI 2.1 on the RX 6900 XT doesn't on the C1.
 
JTCPingas said:
Any of you guys still enjoying the FO48U despite not measuring as well as the C1? I still like mine, and funny enough it allows FreeSync Over DP to work for me on Linux, while HDMI 2.1 VRR and FreeSync Over HDMI 2.1 on the RX 6900 XT doesn't on the C1.
Click to expand...
I'm using Linux as my primary OS (though I sometimes switch to Windows for certain games that don't work on Proton) and I was previously using a CX, not sure if things are different from the C1, but the biggest issue I had with the CX was that once my PC goes to sleep/hibernate I would get no signal to the HDMI on resume until I unplug and plug back in the HDMI cable, and even then that only worked maybe 20% of the time and I would need to hard reboot to get HDMI output working again or log in from another PC over SSH and toggle the resolution from the command line to force trigger an HDMI reset. I could fix this by disabling the "HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color" but then I would lose any 4K/60 support and be limited to 1080p/60 or 4K/30 which sucks. On the FO48U, 4K/120 over DisplayPort works perfectly with my GTX 1080. The gsync support is a nice bonus.

The one thing still annoying me with the FO48U for me is how frustrating the input switching is. I haven't seen anyone else complain about this so I don't know if I'm just the crazy one here or have some weird setup. The main issue is the display will shut off immediately if none of the inputs are active not giving me any chance to bring up the OSD to switch inputs to the device I want to use. I have 2 PCs (a HTPC and a gaming PC) along with a PS5 connected to the monitor. The HTPC is hooked up to the HDMI 2, the PS5 on HDMI 1, and the gaming PC hooked up to DisplayPort. What I end up having to do is power on what ever device the current input is set to (i.e. boot up the PS5 is HDMI 1 is selected) then this allows me to bring up the input switching OSD without the display immediately shutting off then switch to the device I want to use. This is really annoying.

Out of the 2 major issues I've been having between the CX and FO48U, the FO48U's major issue is only slighly less annoying to keep me using it as my primary display over the CX. I couldn't care less about the HDR performance/peak brightness differences since I'm capping the brightness at 200 nits anyways and trying to reduce any burn in from prolonged PC desktop usage. Going back and forth from the CX and FO48U, I don't feel like I'm missing anything from the LG. I tend to forget which panel I'm using until I have to deal with their quirks.
 
JTCPingas said:
Any of you guys still enjoying the FO48U despite not measuring as well as the C1? I still like mine, and funny enough it allows FreeSync Over DP to work for me on Linux, while HDMI 2.1 VRR and FreeSync Over HDMI 2.1 on the RX 6900 XT doesn't on the C1.
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm still enjoying mine, especially now that they fixed VRR over DisplayPort for nVidia cards. I tend not to play games in a bright environment so the HDR still has enough pop for me (and for movies I have my TV in the living room). Does make me wish open source monitor firmwares were a thing though since it seems like all of the issues are fixable, just without enough motivation to do so (or rather, it seems the limits were deliberately put in place).
 
cpt_murasa said:
The one thing still annoying me with the FO48U for me is how frustrating the input switching is. I haven't seen anyone else complain about this so I don't know if I'm just the crazy one here or have some weird setup. The main issue is the display will shut off immediately if none of the inputs are active not giving me any chance to bring up the OSD to switch inputs to the device I want to use. I have 2 PCs (a HTPC and a gaming PC) along with a PS5 connected to the monitor. The HTPC is hooked up to the HDMI 2, the PS5 on HDMI 1, and the gaming PC hooked up to DisplayPort. What I end up having to do is power on what ever device the current input is set to (i.e. boot up the PS5 is HDMI 1 is selected) then this allows me to bring up the input switching OSD without the display immediately shutting off then switch to the device I want to use. This is really annoying.
Click to expand...
Turn input auto switching back on, basically has to be on.
 
coburn_c said:
Turn input auto switching back on, basically has to be on.
Click to expand...
I've had it on but I turned it off as it introduces worse problems with my setup as some of my devices connected to the monitor may be powered on but I don't want my monitor to auto-switch to it. For example, I tend to leave my HTPC on most of the time since I use it regularly and it only goes into hibernate after a couple hours of being idle. Also, someone else in the house might be using the PS5 with RemotePlay when ever so it might also be on randomly throughout the day. If auto-switching is enabled, anytime my gaming PC is restarted, it will immediately switch to the HTPC or PS5 when I don't want it to if either happens to be powered on. Also, I restart fairly frequently when switching between Windows and Linux and this breaks with the KVM inputs auto-switching as well as its impossible to get into the system bios or grub boot menu because my HTPC will hijack the keyboard/mouse input upon reboot and the system boots too quickly before I can get the input to switch back to enter the bios boot menu. Sure I could buy another external KVM switch to solve the KVM switching issue just so I can get dual-boot/grub working again with auto-switching on, but seems like a waste giving the FO48U has a KVM switch built-in.

So basically auto input switching enabled just causes issues when ever multiple devices are powered on, while auto input switching disabled introduces problems when only one device is powered on. I tend to deal with multiple devices powered on more often so I keep auto-input switching off as it overall has less issues for me.

While these are all seemingly minor inconveniences and highly specific to my usage and setup, just having to deal with these inconveniences every day can be maddening considering its all stemming from a silly monitor firmware behavior of not having properly functioning input switching. If manual input switching just worked as it should, it would be perfect. Its just maddening for me because I've been using this same PC/console/media room setup for nearly a decade now using an old 1080p 42" Panasonic plasma TV as my primary display and its all been working perfectly up until I upgraded to these newer yet buggier 4K OLEDs.
 
Last edited:
cpt_murasa said:
I've had it on but I turned it off as it introduces worse problems with my setup as some of my devices connected to the monitor may be powered on but I don't want my monitor to auto-switch to it. For example, I tend to leave my HTPC on most of the time since I use it regularly and it only goes into hibernate after a couple hours of being idle. Also, someone else in the house might be using the PS5 with RemotePlay when ever so it might also be on randomly throughout the day. If auto-switching is enabled, anytime my gaming PC is restarted, it will immediately switch to the HTPC or PS5 when I don't want it to if either happens to be powered on. Also, I restart fairly frequently when switching between Windows and Linux and this breaks with the KVM inputs auto-switching as well as its impossible to get into the system bios or grub boot menu because my HTPC will hijack the keyboard/mouse input upon reboot and the system boots too quickly before I can get the input to switch back to enter the bios boot menu. Sure I could buy another external KVM switch to solve the KVM switching issue just so I can get dual-boot/grub working again with auto-switching on, but seems like a waste giving the FO48U has a KVM switch built-in.

So basically auto input switching enabled just causes issues when ever multiple devices are powered on, while auto input switching disabled introduces problems when only one device is powered on. I tend to deal with multiple devices powered on more often so I keep auto-input switching off as it overall has less issues for me.

While these are all seemingly minor inconveniences and highly specific to my usage and setup, just having to deal with these inconveniences every day can be maddening considering its all stemming from a silly monitor firmware behavior of not having properly functioning input switching. If manual input switching just worked as it should, it would be perfect. Its just maddening for me because I've been using this same PC/console/media room setup for nearly a decade now using an old 1080p 42" Panasonic plasma TV as my primary display and its all been working perfectly up until I upgraded to these newer yet buggier 4K OLEDs.
Click to expand...
Dedicated input buttons on remotes need to make a comeback.
 
hello, I ve recently bought this monitor and I have some problems.
1/I don't see were you can check the firmware version of the monitor
2/ when I plug the monitor on HDMI to my PC with a rtx3080:
On the first turn on the display is split on my dual screen and lock to 60hzs and if I turn the rate to 120hzs there is no signal anymore (option HDMI 2.1 is activated) the monitor go off and I can hear somes "click sounds" like if the monitor could not support this resolution. the remote become unaviable and nothing appear on the screen.
If I want to get an image back I have to unplug all HDMIs and plug a displayport.
when the displayport is plug, I have a 4k 120hz screen ok but an other problem is that I have no TV signal if I dont turn the HDMI option to 2.0 (my TVbox is not hdmi2.1)
If I plug the pc with HDMI option 2.0 the refrech rate is lock to 60

Is there a way to get plug at the same time an HDMI 2.1 pc and a HDMI 2.0 box ?
 
Hi, NOBODY has noticed the issues about the text clarity as the PC monitor and the Yellow color blurry that people have found and RTINGS has confirmed on the 48CX LG? Does it mean that all OLED panels, whatever year have the same issue or maybe some Brand has fixed this with the inhouse setup, please? RTINGS "We received reports of the TV displaying vertical red lines when there are solid areas of yellow and green. This happens when the TV is in 'PC' mode and displaying chroma 4:4:4. Even though putting it out of 'PC' mode to display 4:2:2 helps reduce the issue, it makes text more blurry. We still recommend leaving the TV in 'PC' mode to get clear text, but you may notice these red lines." BTW I've tested it on my 65C8 and it is confirmed. Makes even the text clarity worst and some artifacts in colored logos (yellow, green, red even etc). I've have one deal for Sony 48A9 and now I'm afraid to discover the same on it...
 
Ivanhoe2000 said:
Hi, NOBODY has noticed the issues about the text clarity as the PC monitor and the Yellow color blurry that people have found and RTINGS has confirmed on the 48CX LG? Does it mean that all OLED panels, whatever year have the same issue or maybe some Brand has fixed this with the inhouse setup, please? RTINGS "We received reports of the TV displaying vertical red lines when there are solid areas of yellow and green. This happens when the TV is in 'PC' mode and displaying chroma 4:4:4. Even though putting it out of 'PC' mode to display 4:2:2 helps reduce the issue, it makes text more blurry. We still recommend leaving the TV in 'PC' mode to get clear text, but you may notice these red lines." BTW I've tested it on my 65C8 and it is confirmed. Makes even the text clarity worst and some artifacts in colored logos (yellow, green, red even etc). I've have one deal for Sony 48A9 and now I'm afraid to discover the same on it...
Click to expand...
You need an OLED panel that was designed for monitor use, such as the JOLED RGB ones used in the LG OLED monitors (e.g. 32EP950). Currently, the TV panels are all WRGB which sucks for text, and they aren't optimized or tested for text.
 
Already updated this monitor to firmware 05.

Has anyone been able to get this monitor to behave with Adobe Suite programs like Premiere or Photoshop? Whenever I try to use them, I get a black screen for a few seconds frequently as if my monitor is trying to switch refresh rates.

The only thing that fixes it for me is disabling G-Sync globally. If I set the programs to Fixed Refresh Rate or use the Only In Fullscreen G-Sync option it still doesn't fix the problem. I had another Freesync Premium monitor before this one that worked fine with G-Sync and Adobe Premiere/Photoshop but something about this monitor only causes the problem.

G-Sync has been working great in games, it's just these programs so it's pretty annoying for me to have to disable and re-enable it.
 
LilSassy said:
That's pretty much where I'm at right now. Thank goodness for these Holiday return policies.
Click to expand...
At least this is an actual monitor not a TV being used as a monitor. Both are too big for desktop use IMO.
 
I am hoping the increased pixel density on the 42" OLEDs will make up for the less clear text of the WRGB panel. Or at least make it a bit better than the 48". Kinda like the older pentile displays on Samsung phone OLEDS. Eventually the pixels get so small it doesn't matter anymore.
 
I plan on getting one of the eventual 42" OLEDs to replace the FO48U. Anyone else doing the same?
 
celwin said:
At least this is an actual monitor not a TV being used as a monitor. Both are too big for desktop use IMO.
Click to expand...
Depending on the desk, I guess. It seems a lot of PC users have 24" or even 28" depth desks. I had 30" and just replaced the top with 36", I prefer a nice deep desk.
 
r/AVexchange looks like an okay place to sell TVs and monitors. Though I'm probably going to sell mine locally.
 
oledguy1 said:
I am hoping the increased pixel density on the 42" OLEDs will make up for the less clear text of the WRGB panel. Or at least make it a bit better than the 48". Kinda like the older pentile displays on Samsung phone OLEDS. Eventually the pixels get so small it doesn't matter anymore.
Click to expand...
the actual wrgb gives very bad text clarity, absolutely not acceptable to avoid the eyestrain on PC windows, all 4/4/4 chroma, antialiasing etc. fixed of course, if you use it for more time, over 15-20min. if just for couple of min, ok. So we will see, as in 2022, 42" will have pixel density that might help a little, I don't expect a lot from it, but also if we are lucky some more pixel aperture ratio, something like less "black" space...and how the panel will manage all of this. Comparing to the RGB panel (there is one in 43" with Sony 43X81J, and DC power supply, so no PWM) , it nigh and day. Even the BGR 43" is acceptable, but for me WRGB is absolutely not recommended if you would like to keep your eyes healthy with the PC usage (web, office etc.) at least for the actual oled 2021 tech. So let's see this 42" and EX panel, maybe they will arrange the pixel structure/space...as when they say it will be 30% brighter, maybe the pixels will be "bigger" too ;-) instead pushing more current
 
I have no problems with text clarity on 48C1. I mostly only surfing the web, chrome 125% zoom, pc mode for 4:4:4, enabled windows clear type. ZERO issues with eyestrain.

The problem people have with eyestrain in front of a 48" display is because they use to much brightness and have a wrong viewing angle.
 
Ivanhoe2000 said:
the actual wrgb gives very bad text clarity, absolutely not acceptable to avoid the eyestrain on PC windows, all 4/4/4 chroma, antialiasing etc. fixed of course, if you use it for more time, over 15-20min. if just for couple of min, ok. So we will see, as in 2022, 42" will have pixel density that might help a little, I don't expect a lot from it, but also if we are lucky some more pixel aperture ratio, something like less "black" space...and how the panel will manage all of this. Comparing to the RGB panel (there is one in 43" with Sony 43X81J, and DC power supply, so no PWM) , it nigh and day. Even the BGR 43" is acceptable, but for me WRGB is absolutely not recommended if you would like to keep your eyes healthy with the PC usage (web, office etc.) at least for the actual oled 2021 tech. So let's see this 42" and EX panel, maybe they will arrange the pixel structure/space...as when they say it will be 30% brighter, maybe the pixels will be "bigger" too ;-) instead pushing more current
Click to expand...
As a long time B6P owner, I can say using Cleartype does solve 99% of the text issues. Currently running 1440p @ 125 DPI, and no text rendering issues whatsoever.

Heck, I'd say in my case text is rendering better then the high-endish Dell monitor I have at work.
 
gamerk2 said:
As a long time B6P owner, I can say using Cleartype does solve 99% of the text issues. Currently running 1440p @ 125 DPI, and no text rendering issues whatsoever.

Heck, I'd say in my case text is rendering better then the high-endish Dell monitor I have at work.
Click to expand...
After all tests, reviews, and field side by side tests, I have Sony 43x81J RGB, IPS, no PWM panel. some of my remarques in another thread about 43" 4k monitors...cheers
 
My buddy just bought this, due to the big sale, I think it's $400 off now, $200 instant sale and $200 mail-in-rebate, after everything it's like $800+ now. Curious to hear his thoughts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top