Gigabyte AORUS FO48U 48" 4K 120Hz OLED

I'm usually pretty good at picking out tints like that, and I can't say I notice a major green tint to this monitor. Currently using it in HDR mode with the default setttings. I do remember DLP displays looking insanely green back in the day.
 
I'm usually pretty good at picking out tints like that, and I can't say I notice a major green tint to this monitor. Currently using it in HDR mode with the default setttings. I do remember DLP displays looking insanely green back in the day.
Ok, another setting I can't decide on.. Black Equalizer on 10 has black pixels completely off, but exhibits black crush. Black equalizer on 11 fixes the black crush, but black is no longer completely off. Decisions, decisions.
 
Yeah, the gigabyte brings good stuff to the table. I feel like there will be even better models out next year though, without any of the downsides, and maybe Blur Busters approved 60hz strobe.

In the meantime, my trusty 21" Diamondtron CRT will carry me through yet another year.

The black level on this is better than CRT
 
Hi, new member here. Got this as my first HDR monitor in the Philippines.

Happy to confirm that the last audio port is a combo port, I tested it both as an analog line out using 3.5mm, and with a TOSLINK to mini 3.5mm Digital SPDIF cable on PC and PS5. The PS5 though seems to be having some occasional popping sounds, so I'm using it in analog for now.

For the one who bricked his DP port when updating to F04, you may have to upgrade your graphics driver. I had an outdated Intel driver, and thought my DP port got bricked as well, but it worked fine when I updated the drive using the HDMI port. It had issues though with HDR playback, which I reported to Intel here: https://community.intel.com/t5/Graphics/Intel-11th-Gen-Graphics-4K-HDR-video-playback-glitches-white/m-p/1305286#M99821
 
Hi, new member here. Got this as my first HDR monitor in the Philippines.

Happy to confirm that the last audio port is a combo port, I tested it both as an analog line out using 3.5mm, and with a TOSLINK to mini 3.5mm Digital SPDIF cable on PC and PS5. The PS5 though seems to be having some occasional popping sounds, so I'm using it in analog for now.

For the one who bricked his DP port when updating to F04, you may have to upgrade your graphics driver. I had an outdated Intel driver, and thought my DP port got bricked as well, but it worked fine when I updated the drive using the HDMI port. It had issues though with HDR playback, which I reported to Intel here: https://community.intel.com/t5/Graphics/Intel-11th-Gen-Graphics-4K-HDR-video-playback-glitches-white/m-p/1305286#M99821
Cool, guess my in wall routing is losing some more signal strength that I thought. Though the optical out from my PC to the same hookup works fine even at 24-bit/192KHz (even though toslink officially maxes out at 96)
 
I'm usually pretty good at picking out tints like that, and I can't say I notice a major green tint to this monitor. Currently using it in HDR mode with the default setttings. I do remember DLP displays looking insanely green back in the day.
My monitor has bad color calibration in all profiles in the HDR mode and from what I can tell you can't manually adjust the white point in HDR. Some of them are green, some more bluish or orange. SDR mode looks great though.
 
Ok, another setting I can't decide on.. Black Equalizer on 10 has black pixels completely off, but exhibits black crush. Black equalizer on 11 fixes the black crush, but black is no longer completely off. Decisions, decisions.
The answer is clearly 10, 11 doesn't do anything than make the panel look worse IMO. I just ran a star black crush test and I noticed no black crush, and all BE 11 did was make it look like an LCD panel with a backlight and slight artifacting. Two sides to every story with this panel, I don't know if you're a professional monitor reviewer or not, or if there's some quality control issue at hand here. RTING's review will definitely clear things up.

FYI: The panel is on sale for $1400 and if you've bought for $1500 like me, Newegg was happy to gift me the $100 difference. Thanks Newegg.
 
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My monitor has bad color calibration in all profiles in the HDR mode and from what I can tell you can't manually adjust the white point in HDR. Some of them are green, some more bluish or orange. SDR mode looks great though.
Yeah, using madVR and tone mapping HDR to SDR targeting 100 nits looks better imho.
 
The answer is clearly 10, 11 doesn't do anything than make the panel look worse IMO. I just ran a star black crush test and I noticed no black crush, and all BE 11 did was make it look like an LCD panel with a backlight and slight artifacting. Two sides to every story with this panel, I don't know if you're a professional monitor reviewer or not, or if there's some quality control issue at hand here. RTING's review will definitely clear things up.

FYI: The panel is on sale for $1400 and if you've bought for $1500 like me, Newegg was happy to gift me the $100 difference. Thanks Newegg.
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

10 completely crushes box 1 and mostly crushes 2 for me. Compared 444 and RGB limited and full and it's the same in all three. This is the first monitor I've ever had that correctly auto identifies RGB range tho.
 
I've been using this monitor for a while now and I keep seeing some really strange looking blanking out and partial screen dimming artifacts at various points when watching full screen videos. It seems to be fairly consistent when and where it happens in certain videos, and sometimes almost the entire screen will just fade to black then return to normal after about a second and almost always associated with a scene cut/transition or a bright a object suddenly appearing on screen.

A clear reproducible example can be seen here:
Video

Source here:


around timestamp 5:29 when it cuts to the bright lamp on the ground. Its extremely annoying and happens quite often with many videos at certain spots.

So far I've tried different HDMI/DP cables, trying different PCs, different video apps, upgraded the firmware, tried tweaking with all the different display settings, even significantly lowered the brightness setting to the minimum thinking this might just be the auto-brightness limiter going crazy but it still, nothing seems to fix this issue. I've noticed the artifact also effects the OSD when it happens. I've since returned the unit in exchange for new one from Newegg thinking this might just be a defective panel that just arrived today and yet it still seeing this exact same issue.

I also have a 48" LG CX in another room which I've owned for over a year now which does not have this issue. So either I'm cursed or something is completely messed up with the panel. I'm wondering if anyone else with this monitor is seeing this or I'm just cursed.
 
Can't reproduce it on my system. Can't say I've seen anything like that with any content so far



This is so weird. I did notice the a very subtly dim for a single frame in that video but nothing like what I'm seeing. Have you tried it multiple times? I don't always get it on the first try and sometimes is only flashes for a single frame but I noticed it gets worse over multiple tries. Also changing the playback speed to 0.25x on YT causes the artifact to hang around longer for me which is also strange like its tied to how the content on screen is updating as well.

One thing I noticed poking around with different display settings on my PC, it seems like I can get it to stop if I artificially lowering the brightness in software via the NVIDIA control panel instead of reducing the brightness on the OSD. Also switching to HDR (which will artificially darken SDR content) also seems to reduce it from happening.
 
I've been using this monitor for a while now and I keep seeing some really strange looking blanking out and partial screen dimming artifacts at various points when watching full screen videos. It seems to be fairly consistent when and where it happens in certain videos, and sometimes almost the entire screen will just fade to black then return to normal after about a second and almost always associated with a scene cut/transition or a bright a object suddenly appearing on screen.

A clear reproducible example can be seen here:
Video

Source here:


around timestamp 5:29 when it cuts to the bright lamp on the ground. Its extremely annoying and happens quite often with many videos at certain spots.

So far I've tried different HDMI/DP cables, trying different PCs, different video apps, upgraded the firmware, tried tweaking with all the different display settings, even significantly lowered the brightness setting to the minimum thinking this might just be the auto-brightness limiter going crazy but it still, nothing seems to fix this issue. I've noticed the artifact also effects the OSD when it happens. I've since returned the unit in exchange for new one from Newegg thinking this might just be a defective panel that just arrived today and yet it still seeing this exact same issue.

I also have a 48" LG CX in another room which I've owned for over a year now which does not have this issue. So either I'm cursed or something is completely messed up with the panel. I'm wondering if anyone else with this monitor is seeing this or I'm just cursed.

Yeah you can stop trying to fix it, it's highly reproducible. It's doing per pixel analyzing to control the panel brightness and sometimes it poops 'em.

I had a youtube video the other day that caused it to max the brightness on a scene change, it didn't even care if the OSD was on screen or not.

Your example is particularly entertaining in that you are right, the poop it takes is variable, sometimes its a quick dim and sometimes its like a shutter closing on the flashlight. Most of the ones I've found don't vary.

What you are doing with the control panel is just varying the image enough to no longer trip it up.
 
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This is so weird. I did notice the a very subtly dim for a single frame in that video but nothing like what I'm seeing. Have you tried it multiple times? I don't always get it on the first try and sometimes is only flashes for a single frame but I noticed it gets worse over multiple tries. Also changing the playback speed to 0.25x on YT causes the artifact to hang around longer for me which is also strange like its tied to how the content on screen is updating as well.

One thing I noticed poking around with different display settings on my PC, it seems like I can get it to stop if I artificially lowering the brightness in software via the NVIDIA control panel instead of reducing the brightness on the OSD. Also switching to HDR (which will artificially darken SDR content) also seems to reduce it from happening.
I played the same video and I experience what seemed like, a single frame screen dim, windowed/fullscreen, didn't matter, every time that scene happens, in SDR. Playing the video at 0.25 speed, makes it many times more noticeable, making the dim happen much slower. Without having this pointed out, it was extremely hard to notice, I'm not sure how the average user is affected by this. Will Gigabyte even care to fix this?

EDIT: I did notice going into nvidia control panel and turning brightness to 0 stopped this from happening. Going to 100 made it slightly more noticeable. We could use some more video examples that make this happen, doesn't seem to happen in all videos. It could be in part an issue with the video itself, not sure.
 
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The answer is clearly 10, 11 doesn't do anything than make the panel look worse IMO. I just ran a star black crush test and I noticed no black crush, and all BE 11 did was make it look like an LCD panel with a backlight and slight artifacting. Two sides to every story with this panel, I don't know if you're a professional monitor reviewer or not, or if there's some quality control issue at hand here. RTING's review will definitely clear things up.

FYI: The panel is on sale for $1400 and if you've bought for $1500 like me, Newegg was happy to gift me the $100 difference. Thanks Newegg.
With the room lights on I was ok with 11, but I had the lights out tonight and you right [sic], has to be 10.
 
I've been using this monitor for a while now and I keep seeing some really strange looking blanking out and partial screen dimming artifacts at various points when watching full screen videos. It seems to be fairly consistent when and where it happens in certain videos, and sometimes almost the entire screen will just fade to black then return to normal after about a second and almost always associated with a scene cut/transition or a bright a object suddenly appearing on screen.

A clear reproducible example can be seen here:
Video

Source here:


around timestamp 5:29 when it cuts to the bright lamp on the ground. Its extremely annoying and happens quite often with many videos at certain spots.

So far I've tried different HDMI/DP cables, trying different PCs, different video apps, upgraded the firmware, tried tweaking with all the different display settings, even significantly lowered the brightness setting to the minimum thinking this might just be the auto-brightness limiter going crazy but it still, nothing seems to fix this issue. I've noticed the artifact also effects the OSD when it happens. I've since returned the unit in exchange for new one from Newegg thinking this might just be a defective panel that just arrived today and yet it still seeing this exact same issue.

I also have a 48" LG CX in another room which I've owned for over a year now which does not have this issue. So either I'm cursed or something is completely messed up with the panel. I'm wondering if anyone else with this monitor is seeing this or I'm just cursed.

Can confirm this happens to me as well in SDR mode, with the video at 0.25 speed:
 
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

10 completely crushes box 1 and mostly crushes 2 for me. Compared 444 and RGB limited and full and it's the same in all three. This is the first monitor I've ever had that correctly auto identifies RGB range tho.
At BE10 I found the first square, without trying too hard, to be off. I can notice a slight box around 2 but I'm also in a blacked out room, with some lights on I could see it being very difficult to distinguish the second. With that said, depending on the scene, at BE10, this monitor may lose a bit of detail in shadows for sure. I'm on 444. As I said with the other issue, how big of an issue is this? Would only the most particular people care about a little black crush, is this monitor return worthy? Clearly the amount of flaws keeps adding up but still seems like a mole hill of issues overall.
 
I played the same video and I experience what seemed like, a single frame screen dim, windowed/fullscreen, didn't matter, every time that scene happens, in SDR. Playing the video at 0.25 speed, makes it many times more noticeable, making the dim happen much slower. Without having this pointed out, it was extremely hard to notice, I'm not sure how the average user is affected by this. Will Gigabyte even care to fix this?

EDIT: I did notice going into nvidia control panel and turning brightness to 0 stopped this from happening. Going to 100 made it slightly more noticeable. We could use some more video examples that make this happen, doesn't seem to happen in all videos. It could be in part an issue with the video itself, not sure.
Some further testing and I'm noticing it constantly kicking in watching any anime. What ever is going on, it definitely seems far more sensitive to anime styled content more than anything.
 
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

10 completely crushes box 1 and mostly crushes 2 for me. Compared 444 and RGB limited and full and it's the same in all three. This is the first monitor I've ever had that correctly auto identifies RGB range tho.

That's not crush, that's how it's supposed to be on a display with true blacks. In you're not in a pitch black room, you shouldn't even be able to see the first 2-3 boxes or so. And even in a pitch black room, it's not supposed to be easy unless you zoom like crazy (and squint very hard) to make sure there is no light at all reaching your eyes (I say this because I have tried and the brightness of the rest of the page makes this test difficult on OLED).

It's called "LCD test" because that is exactly what it is. Don't forget that OLED has infinite contrast ratio, so the shades near absolute black will be EXTREMELY DARK, if there is any light in your room they may as well be pitch black because of how the eye works (light reaching your eyes makes it harder to see details in the dark, you know this from real life already but it's something to keep in mind with OLED too).

Again, that's not crush. We just got used to displays with very low contrast ratio (and some of the content may have been mastered for such displays, hence the loss of dark details with OLED, but you can't blame the technology for that!).

When people recommend to use OLED in a dark room (with low OLED light setting to avoid eye fatigue with SDR content), that's the main reason to do so - you benefit from the full range of the contrast ratio (so even SDR looks amazing) and still see very dark details. And the bonus is longer lifespan with lower brightness, as burn-in will take much longer.

Yep, OLED is not actually ideal for everyone.
 
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This is so weird. I did notice the a very subtly dim for a single frame in that video but nothing like what I'm seeing. Have you tried it multiple times? I don't always get it on the first try and sometimes is only flashes for a single frame but I noticed it gets worse over multiple tries. Also changing the playback speed to 0.25x on YT causes the artifact to hang around longer for me which is also strange like its tied to how the content on screen is updating as well.

One thing I noticed poking around with different display settings on my PC, it seems like I can get it to stop if I artificially lowering the brightness in software via the NVIDIA control panel instead of reducing the brightness on the OSD. Also switching to HDR (which will artificially darken SDR content) also seems to reduce it from happening.
I did try multiple times. Playing around some more, if I crank up the brightness, seems like I can see a minor flash of darkness, but not nearly as pronounced as your video.
 
That's not crush, that's how it's supposed to be on a display with true blacks. In you're not in a pitch black room, you shouldn't even be able to see the first 2-3 boxes or so. And even in a pitch black room, it's not supposed to be easy unless you zoom like crazy (and squint very hard) to make sure there is no light at all reaching your eyes (I say this because I have tried and the brightness of the rest of the page makes this test difficult on OLED).

It's called "LCD test" because that is exactly what it is. Don't forget that OLED has infinite contrast ratio, so the shades near absolute black will be EXTREMELY DARK, if there is any light in your room they may as well be pitch black because of how the eye works (light reaching your eyes makes it harder to see details in the dark, you know this from real life already but it's something to keep in mind with OLED too).

Again, that's not crush. We just got used to displays with very low contrast ratio (and some of the content may have been mastered for such displays, hence the loss of dark details with OLED, but you can't blame the technology for that!).

When people recommend to use OLED in a dark room (with low OLED light setting to avoid eye fatigue with SDR content), that's the main reason to do so - you benefit from the full range of the contrast ratio (so even SDR looks amazing) and still see very dark details. And the bonus is longer lifespan with lower brightness, as burn-in will take much longer.

Yep, OLED is not actually ideal for everyone.
Being unable to distinguish between two levels of brightness is the definition of crush. LG's panel is still well behind samsung's phone panels, but it's pretty good. Gigabytes firmware is not very good, but it works. This monitor should see some steep discounts honestly.
 
In HDR mode I can distinguish the levels very easily, (HDR/SDR slider in windows at 15). In SDR mode, with the default Green settings I have a hard time distinguishing below 4 honestly. If I change the color space to sRGB, they're very distinguishable. Increasing the black equalizer from 10 to 11 also makes it easier to distinguish the bottom shades.
 
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-aorus-fo48u

Very positive review. Just need Canadian availability (or an open border!).
HDR seems worst than LG CX/C1 according to review and reddit user topics, lower brigtness as well also no Dolbdy Vision etc https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-aorus-fo48u/5 and https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-aorus-fo48u/3

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

etc
waiting for rting and/or tftcentral reviews now..
LG C1 or CX seems a better choice at lower price (i already own one and price is 999euros here for C1)
 
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HDR seems worst than LG CX/C1 according to review and reddit user topics, lower brigtness as well also no Dolbdy Vision etc https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-aorus-fo48u/5 and https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-aorus-fo48u/3

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

etc
waiting for rting and/or tftcentral reviews now..
LG C1 or CX seems a better choice at lower price (i already own one and price is 999euros here for C1)
Posted this on reddit too, but looks like Tom's methodology for measuring brightness is to use a full white display. In the Rtings reviews, the LG CX and C1 are considerably dimmer with full white images (161 peak in HDR game mode for the C1, 176 in SDR for the CX).

I don't have an LG display, but this feels a fair bit brighter than the Sony A8H in my living room (which should have the same panel as the CX)
 
Some further testing and I'm noticing it constantly kicking in watching any anime. What ever is going on, it definitely seems far more sensitive to anime styled content more than anything.

I saw another instance, this time in an HDR Youtube video:


The flicker happens around the 1:27 mark, but it only occurs for sure if you watch from the start.
 
Posted this on reddit too, but looks like Tom's methodology for measuring brightness is to use a full white display. In the Rtings reviews, the LG CX and C1 are considerably dimmer with full white images (161 peak in HDR game mode for the C1, 176 in SDR for the CX).

I don't have an LG display, but this feels a fair bit brighter than the Sony A8H in my living room (which should have the same panel as the CX)

if you check displayhdr test from microsoft store https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

FO48U:

LG CX :

"It does, but the peak brightness might be lower than a LG CX. VESA Display HDR Test reports a peak luminance of 445 nits...not great, which does not match up with the 800-900 nit claim on Gigabyte's website. The hard clipping point for games is now 600 instead of 800 like the CX and C1. HDR and HDR HLG picture modes look identical and are the most accurate."

Also https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...oled_gaming_monitor_review/h8xhins/?context=3
 
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I mean that's a software reported value. It very well could be the actual display can get just as bright (or brighter if the measurments are real), but something is screwy with the firmware.
 
The answer is clearly 10, 11 doesn't do anything than make the panel look worse IMO. I just ran a star black crush test and I noticed no black crush, and all BE 11 did was make it look like an LCD panel with a backlight and slight artifacting. Two sides to every story with this panel, I don't know if you're a professional monitor reviewer or not, or if there's some quality control issue at hand here. RTING's review will definitely clear things up.

FYI: The panel is on sale for $1400 and if you've bought for $1500 like me, Newegg was happy to gift me the $100 difference. Thanks Newegg.
How did you manage to get them to do that? I bought 3 of them and have spent over $10,000 with Newegg in this past month and they wouldn't budge on adjusting my price because they said they won't price match to a "promo code" of $100 off.
 
How did you manage to get them to do that? I bought 3 of them and have spent over $10,000 with Newegg in this past month and they wouldn't budge on adjusting my price because they said they won't price match to a "promo code" of $100 off.
Hmm, yea I had no issue. It could be that you haven't been a customer too long with them, I've been shopping with Newegg for a decade. Clearly they don't care how much money you spend, maybe try spending more haha. On a more realistic note, if you purchased the monitors more than 2 weeks ago, that will play into it. They have a price match guarantee and this item is not covered by that, but if it was & within 14 days of purchase, they say they cover that. It seems like it was at the discretion of my support agent and the length of time I owned the item.
 
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Hmm, yea I had no issue. It could be that you haven't been a customer too long with them, I've been shopping with Newegg for a decade. Clearly they don't care how much money you spend, maybe try spending more haha. On a more realistic note, if you purchased the monitors more than 2 weeks ago, that will play into it. They have a price match guarantee and this item is not covered by that, but if it was & within 14 days of purchase, they say they cover that. It seems like it was at the discretion of my support agent and the length of time I owned the item.
I have an extensive purchase history going back more than 15 years. Though I ordered the monitors on release date, so I'm beyond 14 days for sure. No worries.
 
Hmm, yea I had no issue. It could be that you haven't been a customer too long with them, I've been shopping with Newegg for a decade. Clearly they don't care how much money you spend, maybe try spending more haha. On a more realistic note, if you purchased the monitors more than 2 weeks ago, that will play into it. They have a price match guarantee and this item is not covered by that, but if it was & within 14 days of purchase, they say they cover that. It seems like it was at the discretion of my support agent and the length of time I owned the item.
No luck here either, and it hasn't been 14 days for me.
 
if you check displayhdr test from microsoft store https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

FO48U:

LG CX :

"It does, but the peak brightness might be lower than a LG CX. VESA Display HDR Test reports a peak luminance of 445 nits...not great, which does not match up with the 800-900 nit claim on Gigabyte's website. The hard clipping point for games is now 600 instead of 800 like the CX and C1. HDR and HDR HLG picture modes look identical and are the most accurate."

Also https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...oled_gaming_monitor_review/h8xhins/?context=3

I did some testing here, and I'm quite sure the Aorus is reporting the wrong metadata and the actual display capabilities are inline with the TVs. My Sony A8H shows very similar numbers to your LG CX with DisplayHDR Test. When I measure the brightness, I get very similar numbers between the Aorus and the A8H for both 10% and 100% brights. Now I'm using a phone app so the actual raw numbers are pretty meaningless, but I imagine the relative comparison holds up. The "official" A8H brightness numbers are pretty close to the LG CX and C1. That probably screws up a fair bit of the HDR content in Windows, but in games which have you set the bright and dark points, the overall dynamic range should be pretty similar.

Hopefully they can fix it in firmware.
 
Thanks for pointing me to this thread Teraphantom, I had forgotten about it.
How does this Aorus do in terms of brightness? Is it anything like the LG TVs with the ABL or ASBL? Also I noticed it has displayport, what is the maximum refresh rate? Seems like it has good color accuracy & contrast.
 
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