Gigabyte AORUS FO48U 48" 4K 120Hz OLED

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Has anybody tried a NVIDIA 1000 series card via the DisplayPort and will it output 4K/120hz at 4:4:4 colour chroma with this monitor?
 

nightanole

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Can anyone decode if i got a EVO panel? The service menu is completely different vs the C1. Panel just says LE48AOD EPA4. None of those match a evo or non evo of the C1 service menu
 

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Hey y'all this on sale for $600 after rebate, only for another 10 or so hours: https://slickdeals.net/f/16036066-4...after-200-rebate-card-free-s-h?src=SiteSearch

I decided to pick it up to dip my toes into OLED to see how I like it. And this is one of the few OLEDs with 120hz BFI, and who knows when LG or Samsung will start doing that again.

So what are the best settings for dealing with the ABL and HDR? I don't mind setting brightness a bit lower since I'll be playing at night mostly
 

nightanole

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Hey y'all this on sale for $600 after rebate, only for another 10 or so hours: https://slickdeals.net/f/16036066-4...after-200-rebate-card-free-s-h?src=SiteSearch

I decided to pick it up to dip my toes into OLED to see how I like it. And this is one of the few OLEDs with 120hz BFI, and who knows when LG or Samsung will start doing that again.

So what are the best settings for dealing with the ABL and HDR? I don't mind setting brightness a bit lower since I'll be playing at night mostly

All you have to do is have movement every 5 minutes or less. The easiest "fix" is just have your wallpaper change once a minute.

Another "trick" is i believe you can still disable it using the same way as the C1, using the repair remote:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M91ST...olid=1U1SSUARKW2TX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 

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All you have to do is have movement every 5 minutes or less. The easiest "fix" is just have your wallpaper change once a minute.
This is supposed to fix large changes in brightness from ABL? I was more concerned with how it behaves in games and, to a lesser degree, web browsing

Another "trick" is i believe you can still disable it using the same way as the C1, using the repair remote:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M91ST...olid=1U1SSUARKW2TX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I wonder if this would void Gigabyte's 3 year warranty
 

nightanole

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This is supposed to fix large changes in brightness from ABL? I was more concerned with how it behaves in games and, to a lesser degree, web browsing



I wonder if this would void Gigabyte's 3 year warranty


Ok there is two "light thingies". The one im talking about is the over all dimming that happens 5min after the monitors sees little to no activity. This thingy can be disabled in the service menu, which does void the warranty of the LG C1 set (it sets a flag and gives you a warning).

If you are talking about the "oled issue" that every set on earth has, that causes the entire monitor to dim if you maximize a full white window, that can be mitigated by not having the brightness on eyebleed mode. "Ratings" calibrated the set at 26 brightness setting out of 100. This is plenty of "power" to make eye bleed flashlights or stars in a dark scene. However this was too dim for me for anime when displaying a mostly white scene. All i had to do was bump it to 36 to find a happy medium.

But this "issue" is happens to all oleds. Its impossible for the entire display to put out max brightness, or anywhere close to it. The next gen sets to have a heatsink now that helps, but there is also a fcc limit. The lovely folk that killed "good" plasmas by saying they can only draw so much power per square inch, are still at work today. So a 48" set is only allowed to draw so much power...


As for my settings:
I have a spyder-x calibrator, and used display cal.
I set the monitor to srgb which disables everything but brightness.
I got into the gigabyte config menu(doesnt void warranty) by holding the numb press and "up" while plugging in the set to the wall, and going to the "P" in the settings menu.
This allowed me to adjust RGB to be color corrected based on what displaycal was measuring. Ratings also gave out their numbers too.
My settings matched ratings settings pretty close. 26 brightness gave 100 nits with a half white background, and my RGB adjustments were only a few ticks different.
 

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Thanks for that. Sounds like I'll rock sRGB and low brightness and then maybe get a colorimiter.

Also, have any of you guys used the F06 firmware?

It has this note:
1. Fixed the flicker issue when activate Aim Stabilizer at 4K 60hz.

This makes me nervous. I'm not sure if it's disabling BFI at 60hz, or fixing buggy BFI. Because a lot of people notice flicker with 60hz BFI on LG sets, and that's just the tradeoff.

Is anybody running F06 and willing to test if BFI, or "aim stabilizer", is still working at 60hz?

Because I'm not sure if the software will allow me go back to F05 firmware if I tested it myself
 
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Does anybody have any issues with the monitor taking a while to display an input when both your PC and monitor is turned on at the same time? I always turn on both my PC and monitor at the same time via the power switch and the monitor usually takes around at least 10-15 seconds to display an image which is annoying. This happpens on both DP and HDMI.
 

nightanole

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Does anybody have any issues with the monitor taking a while to display an input when both your PC and monitor is turned on at the same time? I always turn on both my PC and monitor at the same time via the power switch and the monitor usually takes around at least 10-15 seconds to display an image which is annoying. This happpens on both DP and HDMI.

I dont know if its an "issue" but yea a "cold boot" takes about that long. Im amazed you had a modern monitor that would turn on in 5 seconds from plugging it into the wall.

If you are using the power strip to turn it on and off, when is the set doing the panel conditioning that runs for 5 min or so after you hit the power button?
 

LigTasm

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Does anybody have any issues with the monitor taking a while to display an input when both your PC and monitor is turned on at the same time? I always turn on both my PC and monitor at the same time via the power switch and the monitor usually takes around at least 10-15 seconds to display an image which is annoying. This happpens on both DP and HDMI.

I'm having an issue now where it will never display at all. I have to fully shut down the PC and then wait until I heard the Windows boot sound to turn it on otherwise it will just stay black (restart is impossible). I cannot access the bios, I have to get a second monitor out if I want to do that. Pretty sure I'm going to bring this one back to microcenter and tell them to stuff it, this screen is such a turd.
 

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Fuck, I can't use aim stabilizer, AKA BFI, in sRGB mode.

What combination of settings for contrast, advanced contrast, black equalizer, and gamma will get me in the neighborhood of sRGB in the "standard" color mode? Short of needing to buy a colorimeter and doing a full calibration?

Gigabyte doesn't explain this shit AT ALL

EDIT: OK, it seems like the "Custom" modes are pretty neutral by default? They look pretty good. I just brought down brightness and it seems about right
 
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nightanole

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Fuck, I can't use aim stabilizer, AKA BFI, in sRGB mode.

What combination of settings for contrast, advanced contrast, black equalizer, and gamma will get me in the neighborhood of sRGB in the "standard" color mode? Short of needing to buy a colorimeter and doing a full calibration?

Gigabyte doesn't explain this shit AT ALL

EDIT: OK, it seems like the "Custom" modes are pretty neutral by default? They look pretty good. I just brought down brightness and it seems about right

custom, color space set to auto constrast 50. i think gamma needs to be 2.2 and black 10. Basically just load any test picture and adjust gamma and black till you can see all the bars.
 

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For anybody that's been in the service menu, are there any settings related to Aim Stabilizer/BFI?

Really bugging me that 60hz doesn't work correctly in this mode. This is like the display using an LG panel where this is an issue!
 
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So now I'm getting the "Please turn off the power for panel protection and do not unplug the monitor" message every time I turn the monitor on.

I turn it off with the remote every night and the power is always plugged in to it. Most nights it gives the message "Pannel (sic) protection is processing, please do not unplug the monitor" when I turn it off. Then the led flashes for 5 minutes like it's doing the panel protection thing...

But still I get that other message almost every time I turn it on.

Anyone got any ideas?

Edit: I decided that I'd try to get into the service mode just to have a look because I remember someone posting a screenshot and it has some kind of panel usage time in there, didn't manage to get into that but after unplugging the monitor, it did give me a message that I've never seen before about needing 1 hour to do panel protection or whatever.

So I let that run, it took about an hour, and now I've got my fingers crossed that has fixed it.

It's weird though because now when I look in the OSD (under System-Other Settings), it has "Panel Usage Time" of 917 hours, APCS "Sending Time" of 128, and AOCS "Sending Time" of 1.

AOCS makes sense because it must have just run the AOCS and I'm hoping that's what all the messages have been about when I turn it on, but according to the manual the AOCS is only meant to run after 1500 hours which it hasn't actually reached yet according to the panel usage time.

Also the APCS is meant to run every 4 hours so why is that at 128? It has been running something every time I turn it off with the remote at night.

I have no idea WTF this monitor is doing, and it doesn't inspire confidence that these panel protection things are working properly.

Edit2: In the manual they mention "TSS" which supposedly shows "the number of APCS/AOCS executions". How do you view that? I can't find it anywhere.
 
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Anyone experience what sound like a low power boop and then a ticking sound as the monitor comes on line?

I have the speakers muted and it only happens when connected to computer. Inputs don't seem to matter either.

Thanks for any insight.
 

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Anyone experience what sound like a low power boop and then a ticking sound as the monitor comes on line?

I have the speakers muted and it only happens when connected to computer. Inputs don't seem to matter either.

Thanks for any insight.
Yeah, mine does it when switching refresh rate or input. It's kind of like a "pop". I assume it's the power supply

A little bit scary.
 
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Yeah, mine does it when switching refresh rate or input. It's kind of like a "pop". I assume it's the power supply

A little bit scary.
Did not see it during refresh rate change. I did not detect any extra heat. And it really sounds like it is coming from a speaker.
 
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