GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Discussion Thread

what kind of temps is everyone getting on a 1080ti Founders Edition running about 80% load? im hitting around 80c playing GTA V with a fan speed of 50-55%
Thats close to what I was getting.
The max fan speed I could tolerate was 55% but it would hit 84C quickly.
You really need 75% or more fan speed to push the card before it starts temp throttling. But thats loud.

I installed an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III cooler to cut the temps and noise.
It now runs faster, very quiet and max temp is around 64C.
Fiddly install though and no warranty after.
 
My MSI Gaming X only does 1949 MHz maxed out. Otherwise crashes. I am going to sell it and buy something else. My FE used to do 2050 sustained clocks albeit at 100% fan speed which can wake dead people from their graves.

Funny. I ordered two to SLI. Turned out I only needed one for my needs. Send one back. Never even checked out wich one could I overclock higher! Thought did not even come up. Never realised there's that much difference. As long as the card does what I need it to do, with little heat or noise, I'm happy.
 
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what kind of temps is everyone getting on a 1080ti Founders Edition running about 80% load? im hitting around 80c playing GTA V with a fan speed of 50-55%

You might want to crank the fan to at least 60 or slightly more it should help I'm using Precision XOR (which is good for any Nvidia card) on MSI card. If that doesn't help take it apart and get some Artic Silver 5 on it be generous though a Nvidia chip isn't the same as a CPU. The first time I put thermal paste down it was spiking at 89C cause I botched the thermal past job while it was on auto. Then I got smart finally how to create my own own Fan card something I never really did before and temps are always at 70C or lower even at full load.

I just picked up another Fan off ebay I plan on keeping the card for 2-3 years anyway. The ammount of time I plan spending games a week is next to nothing basically just waiting for games to be finished like Divinity Original Sin 2.
 
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I just received my MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X, paired with an Asus Z270 Prime-A, but (latest) GPU-Z is reporting that the card is only running at x 8 speed. I have everything set in the BIOS to run at Gen 3 speed, but there is nothing to force it to run at x 16. I understand that this is a power saving feature for low loads, but even when playing BF1 1440p @ 144Hz it does not go above x 8. Any ideas?
 
I just received my MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X, paired with an Asus Z270 Prime-A, but (latest) GPU-Z is reporting that the card is only running at x 8 speed. I have everything set in the BIOS to run at Gen 3 speed, but there is nothing to force it to run at x 16. I understand that this is a power saving feature for low loads, but even when playing BF1 1440p @ 144Hz it does not go above x 8. Any ideas?

And you are using the slot closet to the CPU?

The lanes will switch after demand. Maybe try run something like furmark.
 
So I think I lost out on the GPU lottery. Got my EVGA 1080ti SC Black Edition yesterday and I can't even get a stable overclock of 20 on it. The car boosts up to about 1950 on the core when running through Firestrike, but then throttles down. Still good but I definitely got the short stick.
 
Thats close to what I was getting.
The max fan speed I could tolerate was 55% but it would hit 84C quickly.
You really need 75% or more fan speed to push the card before it starts temp throttling. But thats loud.

I installed an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III cooler to cut the temps and noise.
It now runs faster, very quiet and max temp is around 64C.
Fiddly install though and no warranty after.

Have you tried downvolting to around 0.9V?
For some that is a sweet spot between performance with high clock rates and less heat.
Cheers
 
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And you are using the slot closet to the CPU?

The lanes will switch after demand. Maybe try run something like furmark.
Yup, first slot (PCIEx16_1), even using OCCT and Furmark it stays at x 8 (boost clock is 1962MHz) according to GPU-Z 1.20.0 - is there different program that I can check with whilst stressing the card, in case the error is with GPU-Z?
 
I've not been keeping up on the 1080Ti. I have a Gigabyte Xtreme 1080 and was going to pull the trigger on a 1080Ti. I've read the Aorus has 'issues.' What's the best AIB, presently?
 
Have you tried downvolting to around 0.9V?
For some that is a sweet spot between performance with high clock rates and less heat.
Cheers
Blown away.
I decided to look up how to downvolt and came across this thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/7520
Post 8230 shows a clock/voltage curve in MSI Afterburner I havent seen before.
It mentions that the voltage can be locked by pressing L as well.
On my Afterburner skin, clicking near the left of the freq slider brings up the curve graph, gobsmacked lol.

I'll have a play later, cheers :)

ps how long has that curve been there?
 
Just be warned the CTRL-L locks it also for idle when usually the GPU clocks way down.
I think so anyway :)
Cheers
 
Just be warned the CTRL-L locks it also for idle when usually the GPU clocks way down.
I think so anyway :)
Cheers
Yeah I read that and hovering over the trigger for the graph pops up a decent help page.

My card has an Accelero III cooler and temps dont get very high (around 64C overclocked/overvolted @ ambient 21C) so it will be interesting to see how low they go.
Idle is only 4C above living room ambient.
 
Nenu, how many slots does the Accelero III take up? It looks a little bigger than 2...

Awesome chart I found on Reddit about most if not all the 1080tis including slot sizes. Credit goes entirely to u/Teslafan4 over on Reddit's r/Nvidia subreddit for putting this together.

lamTVO2.png
 
Nenu, how many slots does the Accelero III take up? It looks a little bigger than 2...

3 slots.

This cooler doesnt have a backplate and there is a VRM on the back of the card at the power connection end that must be cooled.
The standard backplate is fine for this but removing the main cooler loses the screw mounts for the backplate.
Its a dual screw method to hold the backplate on. The screws holding the cooler have nut shape ends with tiny screw holes for the backplate screws.
I had to use nuts to mount the cooler screws but they are pretty small and no local shop had any.
So I fabricated some which work perfectly. Its better and easier to get proper nuts imo.

More info and piccies
https://hardforum.com/threads/geforce-gtx-1080-ti-discussion-thread.1926115/page-13#post-1042926908
https://hardforum.com/threads/geforce-gtx-1080-ti-discussion-thread.1926115/page-13#post-1042928843


An interesting extra.
My PC case is mounted inside a table with the motherboard horizontal and the case side off. So I can do some spastic things cos its well hidden.
(The CPU is watercooled with an external radiator)
I strung 2 silent 120mm fans together side by side with tie wraps and attached 150mm ducting to each of them.
The fans are sat above the video card pointing toward the motherboard.
This supplies cold air from under the table directly to the gfx card fans.

Idle temp dropped from 5C above room ambient to 2C above.
Load temps during stress tests dropped at least 8C.
With 21C room ambient, max load temp when stress testing is 57C.
**edit, forgot to mention thats with a +114MHz overclock, maxing around 2012 to 1987MHz.

I am considering using 2x140mm fans with ducting. 2x140mm because the cooler is quite long.
This time fit the fans directly to the cooler, replacing the stock fans.
i imagine this will knock up to another 5C off.
I will have to dispense with the PC case to allow side access to the gfx card, and make a frame to hold the card rigid in the motherboard.
Keeps me occupied :)


ps my card is not a brilliant example.
With the stock cooler it did approx 1950MHz with 75% fan, WAY too loud.
The Accelero III cooler has silenced it, cools it a lot better and increased performance about 5%.
 
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3 slots.

This cooler doesnt have a backplate and there is a VRM on the back of the card at the power connection end that must be cooled.
The standard backplate is fine for this but removing the main cooler loses the screw mounts for the backplate.
Its a dual screw method to hold the backplate on. The screws holding the cooler have nut shape ends with tiny screw holes for the backplate screws.
I had to use nuts to mount the cooler screws but they are pretty small and no local shop had any.
So I fabricated some which work perfectly. Its better and easier to get proper nuts imo.

The thing on the back of the card (not entirely sure it's a VRM) doesn't really need to be cooled - but they played it safe because the backplate could have acted as a heat trap so they added a thermal pad. I can put my finger on this thing during Furmark and it barely feels warm. Using an IR thermometer it says 60c, at the most. Maybe it can get hot if you overclock though, I wouldn't know. I personally removed the backplate which makes the card a bit lighter (less stress on the pci-e port) and now the back of the card is getting plenty of fresh air from the case fans. To avoid excessive bending of the card I have tied the power cables at the top of the case.
 
The thing on the back of the card (not entirely sure it's a VRM) doesn't really need to be cooled - but they played it safe because the backplate could have acted as a heat trap so they added a thermal pad. I can put my finger on this thing during Furmark and it barely feels warm. Using an IR thermometer it says 60c, at the most. Maybe it can get hot if you overclock though, I wouldn't know. I personally removed the backplate which makes the card a bit lighter (less stress on the pci-e port) and now the back of the card is getting plenty of fresh air from the case fans. To avoid excessive bending of the card I have tied the power cables at the top of the case.
Thats odd.
My backplate got so hot I couldnt touch it when the card had the stock cooler
This is why I have kept it in place, it definitely is needed on my card.
It still gets too hot to touch.
And thats not the single point that needs cooling, thats anywhere on whole backplate.
 
This is interesting, my back plate is sometimes barely warm to the touch. Other times, I've noticed it get quite hot.

3 slot puts Accellero out the question for me.
 
Thats odd.
My backplate got so hot I couldnt touch it when the card had the stock cooler
This is why I have kept it in place, it definitely is needed on my card.
It still gets too hot to touch.
And thats not the single point that needs cooling, thats anywhere on whole backplate.

Just because it gets hots doesn't mean it's cooling stuff :p backplate is mostly for looks and rigidity. I mean most of it (the part close to the PCB I mean) is covered in some plastic thingy rather than making contact with some proper thermal paste. And that thing on the back is just a PWM converter anyway.

Most components can handle really really high heat anyway (even the core but that will hurt performance), just check out gamersnexus' PCB analysis if you haven't already. I did put roughly as many heatsinks as you did on the front of the card, for the peace of mind more than anything (well the VRAM at least probably needs the heatsinks since it's only rated to 95c). Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.
 
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any 3440x1440 brothers here? What fps are you getting on your games? Im getting 90 in bf1, but only around 50 in Fallout 4 when playing each game on Ultra.
 
any 3440x1440 brothers here? What fps are you getting on your games? Im getting 90 in bf1, but only around 50 in Fallout 4 when playing each game on Ultra.

I've only been playing Doom and the new Deus Ex since I got my 1080Ti. I get around 58 fps in DX11 with "ultra" settings on DE at 3440x1440, right around what the benchmarks claimed.
 
Just because it gets hots doesn't mean it's cooling stuff :p backplate is mostly for looks and rigidity. I mean most of it (the part close to the PCB I mean) is covered in some plastic thingy rather than making contact with some proper thermal paste. And that thing on the back is just a PWM converter anyway.

Most components can handle really really high heat anyway (even the core but that will hurt performance), just check out gamersnexus' PCB analysis if you haven't already. I did put roughly as many heatsinks as you did on the front of the card, for the peace of mind more than anything (well the VRAM at least probably needs the heatsinks since it's only rated to 95c). Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.

I've already explained how I use my card.
Why are you giving me a lecture on how I dont use it.
 
Just because it gets hots doesn't mean it's cooling stuff :p backplate is mostly for looks and rigidity. I mean most of it (the part close to the PCB I mean) is covered in some plastic thingy rather than making contact with some proper thermal paste. And that thing on the back is just a PWM converter anyway.

Most components can handle really really high heat anyway (even the core but that will hurt performance), just check out gamersnexus' PCB analysis if you haven't already. I did put roughly as many heatsinks as you did on the front of the card, for the peace of mind more than anything (well the VRAM at least probably needs the heatsinks since it's only rated to 95c). Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.
gamersnexus put a thermalcouple sensor on the VRAM during their Titan Xp Hybrid build and found the FE cards run ~80C on the VRAM or less with realy minimal cooling. Pretty cool monitoring
 
any 3440x1440 brothers here? What fps are you getting on your games? Im getting 90 in bf1, but only around 50 in Fallout 4 when playing each game on Ultra.

I tried Witcher 3 a few days ago on Ultra, but can't remember now, I can check later today (I'm just at the beginning, I was waiting to upgrade to play it), but I do remember it was very noticeably smoother than with my 980 non-Ti - I wanna say it was mid-60s but don't hold me to that until I check. I just started replaying the two Darksider games (the "remastered" versions however badly that term is for them) after the third was announced, and it easily pegs at the 100Hz of the monitor, but that's hardly notable for those games really.

I also tried Sleeping Dogs Definitive Edition, again, can't recall specific fps, but I did notice that highest setting of AO in that game still managed to cut 20fps off of the average even on the 1080Ti, I want to say it was 80fps in opening area with low AO, vs 60s in same area with highest AO.
 
In case anyone was wondering, the prolimatech mk-26 fits the msi armor edition of the 1080 ti. I've got it to 2.08 on the core, along with +400 on the memory(haven't really pushed that to the limit yet. But, it runs at 68C and is dead silent while playing witcher 3 @ 4K. Kinda fun :)image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
I've already explained how I use my card.
Why are you giving me a lecture on how I dont use it.

I'm just clarifying things, no need to be hostile. You do what you want with your own card. But the backplate on the 1080 ti isn't mandatory with your cooler or mine* (some aftermarket models are even sold without one). I totally understand that in some custom models it helps with the cooling and is part of the cooler design though.

*Prolimatech mk-26 like the above poster

In case anyone was wondering, the prolimatech mk-26 fits the msi armor edition of the 1080 ti. I've got it to 2.08 on the core, along with +400 on the memory(haven't really pushed that to the limit yet. But, it runs at 68C and is dead silent while playing witcher 3 @ 4K. Kinda fun :)View attachment 24208 View attachment 24209 View attachment 24210

Yeah I've found I can adapt the Prolimatech to pretty much any GPU without too much trouble. I really don't regret purchasing it a few years back, it's already the 3rd GPU I'm using it with.
 
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I'm just clarifying things, no need to be hostile. You do what you want with your own card. But the backplate on the 1080 ti isn't mandatory with your cooler or mine* (some aftermarket models are even sold without one). I totally understand that in some custom models it helps with the cooling and is part of the cooler design though.
You were trying to explain that the rear backplate heatsink isnt necessary when it gets very hot.
The single component it cools would get extremely hot if it wasnt given the surface area of the rear plate to cool.
Even if the component is capable of withstanding high temps, repeated heating and cooling of solder joints can cause premature failure.
It has a cooler for a reason.

Then you state
Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.
You assume I wouldnt increase the power limit when there is no reason not to.
Its performance 101 and has nothing [H] about it.
Use of an Accelero III cooler and voiding my warranty should have rung some bells about my intention.
Raising the power limit is the bare minimum expectation.
 
You were trying to explain that the rear backplate heatsink isnt necessary when it gets very hot.
The single component it cools would get extremely hot if it wasnt given the surface area of the rear plate to cool.
Even if the component is capable of withstanding high temps, repeated heating and cooling of solder joints can cause premature failure.
It has a cooler for a reason.

It wouldn't get THAT hot no, certainly not hot enough for the soldier joints to suffer (that'd be crazy). You can't even increase the power limit that much on FE (and I never "assumed" that you weren't raising it since I actually knew you were doing just that). And finally, the backplate doesn't heat up just because of that one single component (a lot of heat emanates from the PCB, especially around the GPU core or VRMs).

Like gamersnexus explained, they basically went overkill (though not as much as some third parties) on a lot of things, including the thermal pads even on things that don't really need cooling. Trapping the PWM converter under the backplate wouldn't have been a very good idea so they put a little pad to be perfectly safe.
 
It wouldn't get THAT hot no, certainly not hot enough for the soldier joints to suffer (that'd be crazy). You can't even increase the power limit that much on FE (and I never "assumed" that you weren't raising it since I actually knew you were doing just that). And finally, the backplate doesn't heat up just because of that one single component (a lot of heat emanates from the PCB, especially around the GPU core or VRMs).

Like gamersnexus explained, they basically went overkill (though not as much as some third parties) on a lot of things, including the thermal pads even on things that don't really need cooling. Trapping the PWM converter under the backplate wouldn't have been a very good idea so they put a little pad to be perfectly safe.
My FE allows 20% power limit increase which is significant, taking power consumption max from 250W to 300W.
It allows for a worthy overclock increase.

If you knew I was raising the power limit there would have been no need for your lecture based on not using it.
You were trying to pose and dont have your facts straight anyway.

Solder joint fatigue from heat cycling does not need to get near solder melting point.
The joints crack and make bad or no connection.
It happens faster the larger the temp delta hence the need to prevent high temps.
This is why many dead graphics cards can be revived by sticking them in an oven.
It reflows fatigued and broken solder joints.
 
I know about that, I've fixed several motherboards and (old) GPUs that way. But even if you're truly concerned about it, those were always (from my personal experience and what I've read on this forum and elsewhere) components that had seen many years of use, not just a couple of years (certainly much more than the time between 2 gens of ti cards). But you believe and do what you want. The bottom line is I disagree that the backplate matters or is needed when using such a cooler (not saying it hurts either) and I've explained why. That's all.
 
I know about that, I've fixed several motherboards and (old) GPUs that way. But even if you're truly concerned about it, those were always (from my personal experience and what I've read on this forum and elsewhere) components that had seen many years of use, not just a couple of years (certainly much more than the time between 2 gens of ti cards). But you believe and do what you want. The bottom line is I disagree that the backplate matters or is needed when using such a cooler (not saying it hurts either) and I've explained why. That's all.
You havent explained why its not needed.
You eventually conceded that it should receive due cooling when overclocking.
And now you know that I am pushing for a good overclock, you know it is needed.
 
Then you just read what you want to read. Let's just stop here, I can tell this is going nowhere.

edit : I can see why my second post could have misled you though. Sorry about the poor wording. What I really meant to say is when pushing high OCs you do want to think about the cooling for the components on the front of the card (VRM, VRAM etc.), even though those components can handle really high heat. But I was not thinking of the PWM converter on the back of the card when saying that.
 
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I tried Witcher 3 a few days ago on Ultra, but can't remember now, I can check later today (I'm just at the beginning, I was waiting to upgrade to play it), but I do remember it was very noticeably smoother than with my 980 non-Ti - I wanna say it was mid-60s but don't hold me to that until I check. I just started replaying the two Darksider games (the "remastered" versions however badly that term is for them) after the third was announced, and it easily pegs at the 100Hz of the monitor, but that's hardly notable for those games really.

I also tried Sleeping Dogs Definitive Edition, again, can't recall specific fps, but I did notice that highest setting of AO in that game still managed to cut 20fps off of the average even on the 1080Ti, I want to say it was 80fps in opening area with low AO, vs 60s in same area with highest AO.

Definitely mid 60s for me as well on everything max. Might drop down to 54 or so in some scenes.

On another note.. should I swap my TI out for a gaming X? Looking for a card that isn't as loud. Heard good things about the Gaming X.
 
Then you just read what you want to read. Let's just stop here, I can tell this is going nowhere.

edit : I can see why my second post could have misled you though. Sorry about the poor wording. What I really meant to say is when pushing high OCs you do want to think about the cooling for the components on the front of the card (VRM, VRAM etc.), even though those components can handle really high heat. But I was not thinking of the PWM converter on the back of the card when saying that.
Mine gets bloody hot.
It needs cooling.
 
This is interesting, my back plate is sometimes barely warm to the touch. Other times, I've noticed it get quite hot.

3 slot puts Accellero out the question for me.

Thanks for confirming the backplate gets hot.

Thats a pity you cant fit an Accelero.
You probably wont be able to do this either lol...

I removed my PC from its case so it is open to the air inside my table.
The twin 120mm fans with air ducting from under the table now point directly at the gfx card fans.
This has dropped temps when stress testing to 54C max (ambient 21C) with a slight overclock increase to 2025MHz.
I'm very pleased.

Next stage is 2x140mm fans with ducting attached directly to the cards cooler.
Infinite supply of cool air at higher speed with no chance of recirculation!
I'm hoping for sub 50C when stress testing.
 
Thanks for confirming the backplate gets hot.

Thats a pity you cant fit an Accelero.
You probably wont be able to do this either lol...

I removed my PC from its case so it is open to the air inside my table.
The twin 120mm fans with air ducting from under the table now point directly at the gfx card fans.
This has dropped temps when stress testing to 54C max (ambient 21C) with a slight overclock increase to 2025MHz.
I'm very pleased.

Next stage is 2x140mm fans with ducting attached directly to the cards cooler.
Infinite supply of cool air at higher speed with no chance of recirculation!
I'm hoping for sub 50C when stress testing.
I love the ducting, well done! Old school and effective!
 
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