lol32C at 100% load for me...
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lol32C at 100% load for me...
Thats close to what I was getting.what kind of temps is everyone getting on a 1080ti Founders Edition running about 80% load? im hitting around 80c playing GTA V with a fan speed of 50-55%
My MSI Gaming X only does 1949 MHz maxed out. Otherwise crashes. I am going to sell it and buy something else. My FE used to do 2050 sustained clocks albeit at 100% fan speed which can wake dead people from their graves.
what kind of temps is everyone getting on a 1080ti Founders Edition running about 80% load? im hitting around 80c playing GTA V with a fan speed of 50-55%
I just received my MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X, paired with an Asus Z270 Prime-A, but (latest) GPU-Z is reporting that the card is only running at x 8 speed. I have everything set in the BIOS to run at Gen 3 speed, but there is nothing to force it to run at x 16. I understand that this is a power saving feature for low loads, but even when playing BF1 1440p @ 144Hz it does not go above x 8. Any ideas?
Thats close to what I was getting.
The max fan speed I could tolerate was 55% but it would hit 84C quickly.
You really need 75% or more fan speed to push the card before it starts temp throttling. But thats loud.
I installed an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III cooler to cut the temps and noise.
It now runs faster, very quiet and max temp is around 64C.
Fiddly install though and no warranty after.
Yup, first slot (PCIEx16_1), even using OCCT and Furmark it stays at x 8 (boost clock is 1962MHz) according to GPU-Z 1.20.0 - is there different program that I can check with whilst stressing the card, in case the error is with GPU-Z?And you are using the slot closet to the CPU?
The lanes will switch after demand. Maybe try run something like furmark.
Blown away.Have you tried downvolting to around 0.9V?
For some that is a sweet spot between performance with high clock rates and less heat.
Cheers
Yeah I read that and hovering over the trigger for the graph pops up a decent help page.Just be warned the CTRL-L locks it also for idle when usually the GPU clocks way down.
I think so anyway
Cheers
Nenu, how many slots does the Accelero III take up? It looks a little bigger than 2...
Nenu, how many slots does the Accelero III take up? It looks a little bigger than 2...
3 slots.
This cooler doesnt have a backplate and there is a VRM on the back of the card at the power connection end that must be cooled.
The standard backplate is fine for this but removing the main cooler loses the screw mounts for the backplate.
Its a dual screw method to hold the backplate on. The screws holding the cooler have nut shape ends with tiny screw holes for the backplate screws.
I had to use nuts to mount the cooler screws but they are pretty small and no local shop had any.
So I fabricated some which work perfectly. Its better and easier to get proper nuts imo.
Thats odd.The thing on the back of the card (not entirely sure it's a VRM) doesn't really need to be cooled - but they played it safe because the backplate could have acted as a heat trap so they added a thermal pad. I can put my finger on this thing during Furmark and it barely feels warm. Using an IR thermometer it says 60c, at the most. Maybe it can get hot if you overclock though, I wouldn't know. I personally removed the backplate which makes the card a bit lighter (less stress on the pci-e port) and now the back of the card is getting plenty of fresh air from the case fans. To avoid excessive bending of the card I have tied the power cables at the top of the case.
Thats odd.
My backplate got so hot I couldnt touch it when the card had the stock cooler
This is why I have kept it in place, it definitely is needed on my card.
It still gets too hot to touch.
And thats not the single point that needs cooling, thats anywhere on whole backplate.
any 3440x1440 brothers here? What fps are you getting on your games? Im getting 90 in bf1, but only around 50 in Fallout 4 when playing each game on Ultra.
Just because it gets hots doesn't mean it's cooling stuff backplate is mostly for looks and rigidity. I mean most of it (the part close to the PCB I mean) is covered in some plastic thingy rather than making contact with some proper thermal paste. And that thing on the back is just a PWM converter anyway.
Most components can handle really really high heat anyway (even the core but that will hurt performance), just check out gamersnexus' PCB analysis if you haven't already. I did put roughly as many heatsinks as you did on the front of the card, for the peace of mind more than anything (well the VRAM at least probably needs the heatsinks since it's only rated to 95c). Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.
gamersnexus put a thermalcouple sensor on the VRAM during their Titan Xp Hybrid build and found the FE cards run ~80C on the VRAM or less with realy minimal cooling. Pretty cool monitoringJust because it gets hots doesn't mean it's cooling stuff backplate is mostly for looks and rigidity. I mean most of it (the part close to the PCB I mean) is covered in some plastic thingy rather than making contact with some proper thermal paste. And that thing on the back is just a PWM converter anyway.
Most components can handle really really high heat anyway (even the core but that will hurt performance), just check out gamersnexus' PCB analysis if you haven't already. I did put roughly as many heatsinks as you did on the front of the card, for the peace of mind more than anything (well the VRAM at least probably needs the heatsinks since it's only rated to 95c). Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.
any 3440x1440 brothers here? What fps are you getting on your games? Im getting 90 in bf1, but only around 50 in Fallout 4 when playing each game on Ultra.
I've already explained how I use my card.
Why are you giving me a lecture on how I dont use it.
In case anyone was wondering, the prolimatech mk-26 fits the msi armor edition of the 1080 ti. I've got it to 2.08 on the core, along with +400 on the memory(haven't really pushed that to the limit yet. But, it runs at 68C and is dead silent while playing witcher 3 @ 4K. Kinda fun View attachment 24208 View attachment 24209 View attachment 24210
You were trying to explain that the rear backplate heatsink isnt necessary when it gets very hot.I'm just clarifying things, no need to be hostile. You do what you want with your own card. But the backplate on the 1080 ti isn't mandatory with your cooler or mine* (some aftermarket models are even sold without one). I totally understand that in some custom models it helps with the cooling and is part of the cooler design though.
You assume I wouldnt increase the power limit when there is no reason not to.Now if you go [H]ard on the card, raising the power limit and whatnot, then yeah, you need to worry about cooling everything properly, of course.
You were trying to explain that the rear backplate heatsink isnt necessary when it gets very hot.
The single component it cools would get extremely hot if it wasnt given the surface area of the rear plate to cool.
Even if the component is capable of withstanding high temps, repeated heating and cooling of solder joints can cause premature failure.
It has a cooler for a reason.
In case anyone was wondering, the prolimatech mk-26 fits the msi armor edition of the 1080 ti. I've got it to 2.08 on the core, along with +400 on the memory(haven't really pushed that to the limit yet. But, it runs at 68C and is dead silent while playing witcher 3 @ 4K. Kinda fun View attachment 24208 View attachment 24209 View attachment 24210
My FE allows 20% power limit increase which is significant, taking power consumption max from 250W to 300W.It wouldn't get THAT hot no, certainly not hot enough for the soldier joints to suffer (that'd be crazy). You can't even increase the power limit that much on FE (and I never "assumed" that you weren't raising it since I actually knew you were doing just that). And finally, the backplate doesn't heat up just because of that one single component (a lot of heat emanates from the PCB, especially around the GPU core or VRMs).
Like gamersnexus explained, they basically went overkill (though not as much as some third parties) on a lot of things, including the thermal pads even on things that don't really need cooling. Trapping the PWM converter under the backplate wouldn't have been a very good idea so they put a little pad to be perfectly safe.
You havent explained why its not needed.I know about that, I've fixed several motherboards and (old) GPUs that way. But even if you're truly concerned about it, those were always (from my personal experience and what I've read on this forum and elsewhere) components that had seen many years of use, not just a couple of years (certainly much more than the time between 2 gens of ti cards). But you believe and do what you want. The bottom line is I disagree that the backplate matters or is needed when using such a cooler (not saying it hurts either) and I've explained why. That's all.
I tried Witcher 3 a few days ago on Ultra, but can't remember now, I can check later today (I'm just at the beginning, I was waiting to upgrade to play it), but I do remember it was very noticeably smoother than with my 980 non-Ti - I wanna say it was mid-60s but don't hold me to that until I check. I just started replaying the two Darksider games (the "remastered" versions however badly that term is for them) after the third was announced, and it easily pegs at the 100Hz of the monitor, but that's hardly notable for those games really.
I also tried Sleeping Dogs Definitive Edition, again, can't recall specific fps, but I did notice that highest setting of AO in that game still managed to cut 20fps off of the average even on the 1080Ti, I want to say it was 80fps in opening area with low AO, vs 60s in same area with highest AO.
Mine gets bloody hot.Then you just read what you want to read. Let's just stop here, I can tell this is going nowhere.
edit : I can see why my second post could have misled you though. Sorry about the poor wording. What I really meant to say is when pushing high OCs you do want to think about the cooling for the components on the front of the card (VRM, VRAM etc.), even though those components can handle really high heat. But I was not thinking of the PWM converter on the back of the card when saying that.
This is interesting, my back plate is sometimes barely warm to the touch. Other times, I've noticed it get quite hot.
3 slot puts Accellero out the question for me.
I love the ducting, well done! Old school and effective!Thanks for confirming the backplate gets hot.
Thats a pity you cant fit an Accelero.
You probably wont be able to do this either lol...
I removed my PC from its case so it is open to the air inside my table.
The twin 120mm fans with air ducting from under the table now point directly at the gfx card fans.
This has dropped temps when stress testing to 54C max (ambient 21C) with a slight overclock increase to 2025MHz.
I'm very pleased.
Next stage is 2x140mm fans with ducting attached directly to the cards cooler.
Infinite supply of cool air at higher speed with no chance of recirculation!
I'm hoping for sub 50C when stress testing.