Frank's 2013 upgrade.......

Have you ever had one of those moments where you tell yourself, OK I need to install this on this side and I need to protect the other side. Then off you go and wrap the wrong side and install the items when 4 hours later you realize why the MO-RA3 LT corners are not lining up - THE FANS ARE ON THE WRONG SIDE! (facepalm) OK, I quit for the night........damn looks good though.....wrong side, OMG..............so I get to do it all again.

So these are some pretty photo's I think - but showing these fans on the wrong side dangit.

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The1stCAV said:
YES SIR! lol, wil be back at it tonight...........:D Fresh case of Negra Modello in fridge, ready to go
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You know...not that I ever want to suggest such a thing be true, since I almost exclusively work on my systems while intoxicated, but I can't help but wonder if the NM has some kind of effect on these sorts of issues...
 
hound said:
You know...not that I ever want to suggest such a thing be true, since I almost exclusively work on my systems while intoxicated, but I can't help but wonder if the NM has some kind of effect on these sorts of issues...
Click to expand...

I would tend to have to consider this as well - except that I only had 1/2 of one last night - I got so busy I forgot it sitting there. So unfortunately I cannot blame it on Negra Modello - but on me reversing it in my head then reversing it again. OK, the side thats got the screw in panel, not the full panel - oh ok I'll wrap the screw in panel side then - shit no that was the side I needed. See, I turned it around - one second thinking/knowing this is the side I need to install on, and by the time I got the stuff it became the side I had to protect. (facepalm) no stupid THE OTHER SIDE............ So as much as I would like to blame it on NM, it was Operator Error 100%.
 
The1stCAV said:
I would tend to have to consider this as well - except that I only had 1/2 of one last night - I got so busy I forgot it sitting there. So unfortunately I cannot blame it on Negra Modello - but on me reversing it in my head then reversing it again. OK, the side thats got the screw in panel, not the full panel - oh ok I'll wrap the screw in panel side then - shit no that was the side I needed. See, I turned it around - one second thinking/knowing this is the side I need to install on, and by the time I got the stuff it became the side I had to protect. (facepalm) no stupid THE OTHER SIDE............ So as much as I would like to blame it on NM, it was Operator Error 100%.
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I totally understand. I really do tend to do a lot of stuff, much of it having to do with torturing my Linux server, while intoxicated and then will have very little memory of what I was trying to accomplish later when I sit down to open terminal windows and a bunch of weird stuff. But hey, at least you'll know that CF is there, and it was probably good practice for the mobo tray and water blocks, right?
 
Tomorrow the migration happens. I will block the board, move everything into the new case - after a run to the store for more fans............lol, I ran out of fans.

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Frank is almost fully removed from the Corsair 800D. I have the motherboard and the power supply to deinstall, then basically there will be nothing left within the 800D - it will all be here in these views. As you can see it is a time consuming task as I continue to work this build to get everything in this case. I decided to migrate much of my work data to drives I can use through "Frank Jr" so I stop doing the "hurry up gotta be finished by the end of the weekend" thing and take my time on this migration and do it right with tikme to think and not screw up (hopefully).

I need to wrap the Alphacool UT60 360 Radiator before installing it in the bottom. That will be the last radiator to go in there. I was able to pick up the fans I needed, so once the UT60 is CF'd I cna get the rest of the fans in there.Some items such as the DVD/BR player will be coming back out and cleaned up, as with several other items I am just getting in there for now. Once I get everything in and working as it should, then the beautification starts, including the sleeving.........

So I will be limited being on Frank Jr for a bit, but not totally helpless, I can still get work done during the week on this laptop connected to the 27" screen, keyboard and mouse. I will be working towards getting Frank back up and running fully this week - for now here are some pics to show the current state of the build..........

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I've been watching this for awhile, don't know why I haven't subbed till now, but seeing it close to being finished I don't wanna miss anything. Excellent work sir!
 
Well thanks for the sub devil_trigger, though we are far from done at this point. Tyhe goal is to get it all in the case, get the water all operational, etc - then the beautification begins and I start changing out the installed cables for sleeved custom cables. Once all the custom cables are in, then its sewing time.......then we should be done. :D Estimated another 30-60 days.
 
The1stCAV said:
Well thanks for the sub devil_trigger, though we are far from done at this point. Tyhe goal is to get it all in the case, get the water all operational, etc - then the beautification begins and I start changing out the installed cables for sleeved custom cables. Once all the custom cables are in, then its sewing time.......then we should be done. :D Estimated another 30-60 days.
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Oh well, that just means another 30-60 days of looking forward to progression pics! :D
 
Some images from the work done this weekend. I am not at all close to being done, no where close to having the system going on a leak test anytime soon, etc. So much to do, so little time. I will try to get Frank on water by the end of the week though, because even though this laptop (Frank Jr) is a beast in its own rights (ASUS-Automobili Lamborghini VX7SX), its still not "Frank N Stein" and I certianly notice a speed difference anytime I try to do anything. I guess when you get spoiled on something like Frank, everything else pales in comparisson.

So here are some pics - captions pretty much define the reason for the images. Enjoy.....

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Coming out extremely nice there Cav, hate to look at the total amount spent so far lol.

That complete shot of the build up few posts left my jaw on the floor.
 
Once it's complete and tested and you've had your jollies with it, can I borrow Frank for a spell?:D
 
Matthew Kane said:
Coming out extremely nice there Cav, hate to look at the total amount spent so far lol.

That complete shot of the build up few posts left my jaw on the floor.
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Thanks, coming together rather nicely I think as well. I also have decided I really do not want to go back and trace the actual dollars spent on this project. It gores beyond those things you see going into the build, it also encompasses much more like tools and other things that surround the supporting of the actual items that goes into the case. Things you do not think of (anti-static wrist strap, TIM, glue, Dremel bits, sleeving), and some things you do, just don't realize the costing. Like nuts and bolts - I have already spent like $200 on nothing but button head hex and torx bolts. So yeah, adding this up at this point would just not be a good thing I don't think.

wra18th said:
Once it's complete and tested and you've had your jollies with it, can I borrow Frank for a spell?:D
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NO


I want to throw out a quick “Thank you” to LEPA. The LEPA G1600 is a 1,600W PSU that is rock solid. I used to rely heavily on the Silverstone ST1500, it could not hold the power for the duration and extent of what I needed the PSU to do for Frank N Stein, so I purchased this PSU and it’s the best thing I ever bought to power my PC – not one PSU power related issue since I purchased it.

Well I wanted to use this G1600 PSU in this build, the problem is LEPA had to be creative to provide a 1,600W PSU that had enough connectors at the PSU end, so they used non-standard PSU plugs. This meant that I was going to have issues sleeving and using this PSU in this build because I could not find the correct connectors and I really would wanted to use the one PSU I knew I could rely on. I contacted LEPA and they were so helpful and awesome to work with. After discussing what I needed and was using them for, they unfortunately could not just send me some connectors, but could help me out with the cables. What that means is I can pop the wires out of the connectors and use them that way – so the build continues – thanks so much again to LEPA for working with me and assisting me in the connectors/cables I needed to make this build happen.

If anyone is looking for a solid PSU in the 1600W range – look no further than the LEPA G1600 – seriously, it will run circles around a Silverstone 1500W PSU, which was “the standard” – until this baby came along. I have had 0 power issues since buying this PSU and highly recommend it to anyone that needs some serious solid power – look no further than this monster PSU.

If any of you followed my last build with Frank, there was times where I was pulling out and changing out many things. One of the big things was I was having power issues with my USB ports. Well it was two fold. One was the Silverstone ST1500 for some reason was having issues powering the 990X overclocked, the three GTX 580's overclocked, and the many other things it was powering. I also had a USB riser card in a PCI slot that the Classified 3 board didn't like - but neither did the RAMPAGE III either, if you recall that was why I sold it and went to the Classified 3 - to find the same issues. I pulled out and RMA'd the Silverstone when EVGA and I troubleshot and decided it was the PSU causing me issues. Well not being able to be without a PC, I went and purchased a PSU thinking it was a temp fix until Silverstone replaced my PSU. As soon as the RMA'd one arrived, I put it back in and the troubles began instantly. I pulled it out, put this LEPA 1600W in and they stopped - and this PSU has never been out of Frank since.

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FWIW, I would highly suggest AGAINST using multiple power supplies. You WILL have a voltage differential between the rail on each PSU causing current to flow through components in ways it is not designed to.

If you ABSOLUTELY NEED TO (which you don't, for this build, IMHO) then I would make sure to tie together each of the rails on each psu with a connection that can handle a good amount of current, in something like a backplane. So, like tie the +12, the -12, the +5, the +3.3, and the grounds of course. If you really think you need two PSU's then get a kill-a-watt and see the truth. See how much power it is pulling, factor in the efficiency, and see how close to 1600w you are.

For example, if it is 85% efficient then 1600 / 0.85 = 1882.4W from the wall. You better have a 20A circuit, not just a 15A circuit for this.


EDIT: I have some reading to do in order to catch up with the thread, but I know at one point you were considering two PSU's. Not sure if you have changed that or not. I always wince when I see big beautiful systems that are needlessly(in most cases) being tortured with dual power supplies.
 
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extide said:
FWIW, I would highly suggest AGAINST using multiple power supplies. You WILL have a voltage differential between the rail on each PSU causing current to flow through components in ways it is not designed to.

If you ABSOLUTELY NEED TO (which you don't, for this build, IMHO) then I would make sure to tie together each of the rails on each psu with a connection that can handle a good amount of current, in something like a backplane. So, like tie the +12, the -12, the +5, the +3.3, and the grounds of course. If you really think you need two PSU's then get a kill-a-watt and see the truth. See how much power it is pulling, factor in the efficiency, and see how close to 1600w you are.

For example, if it is 85% efficient then 1600 / 0.85 = 1882.4W from the wall. You better have a 20A circuit, not just a 15A circuit for this.


EDIT: I have some reading to do in order to catch up with the thread, but I know at one point you were considering two PSU's. Not sure if you have changed that or not. I always wince when I see big beautiful systems that are needlessly(in most cases) being tortured with dual power supplies.
Click to expand...

just to add, i wouldnt think this is a problem if one PSU is smaller and just for pumps, CCFLs, fans, etc. if one is powering the mobo and 1 GPU, and the other is powering 2 GPUs or something like that then yeah you might get problems.
 
Actually the plan is dual power supplies.

I will be using this:
Bitspower X-Station Multi-PSU Active Module - Red
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=60_392&products_id=24133

Which will connect two PSU's to run at the same time when I power on the PC.

PSU 1 Will be:
LEPA G1600W
MOBO/CPU
GPU1,2,3
SSD 1,2,3,4
HDD 1,2

Silverstone 850W
46 Fans
4 D5 Pumps
LED's/Cold Cathodes
Anything else I have missed

This way each PSU is working independent from each other, powering its own sets of things. The two PSU's will not be powering the same items. The G1600 is dedicated to the PC core items where the Silverstone will be all cooling and lighting.

Does that reduce concerns with dual PSU's?
 
So long as nothing plugged into one PSU has ANY connection besides ground to anything on the other PSU. That includes the RPM monitoring wire from a fan. If a fan is plugged into PSU 2 for power but the tach cable is plugged into the mobo which is plugged into PSU 1, then that's were the current can/will flow. It may not cause any problems, but technically it can, and I wouldn't risk it.

Honestly for the second PSU an 850W is way overkill. I would go with something small and highly efficient. Something like the Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold. I have a few of those in my servers (these are boxes with 8-10 HD's and 4+ Ghz LGA1366 cpu's) and they run great. It can usually be had for like $65 and is generally the best value in a low wattage high efficiency PSU. You can get 500W platinum PSU's but they are way way more expensive.
 
extide said:
So long as nothing plugged into one PSU has ANY connection besides ground to anything on the other PSU. That includes the RPM monitoring wire from a fan. If a fan is plugged into PSU 2 for power but the tach cable is plugged into the mobo which is plugged into PSU 1, then that's were the current can/will flow. It may not cause any problems, but technically it can, and I wouldn't risk it.

Honestly for the second PSU an 850W is way overkill. I would go with something small and highly efficient. Something like the Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold. I have a few of those in my servers (these are boxes with 8-10 HD's and 4+ Ghz LGA1366 cpu's) and they run great. It can usually be had for like $65 and is generally the best value in a low wattage high efficiency PSU. You can get 500W platinum PSU's but they are way way more expensive.
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Well the Silverstone 850W was given to me by my uncle, its fully modular, so I was happy to receive it, dress it up in CF, and use it. Honestly I know 850W is overkill, but when you get one for free - use it. The only point I can see something potentially connecting would be the pumps and fans will be monitored through the Heatmaster. The Heatmaster will run independent of the Motherboard, but can be connected via USB to program. This USB connection would be the only time I see that one item powered by one PSU will be connected to another item powered by the other PSU. However this is only a data connection, but USB does draw some power as well. This would be the only time. Else, everything powered by the one PSU will run and be totally independent of the other, except for the initial start up dual PSU module I will be using and that is simply to signal to the second PSU - OK turn on and start running your things.

CthulhuDreams said:
Awesome build with a very well presented write up and work log. I enjoy reading it.
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Glkad you are enjoying the build thread, stick around we have lots more to go. Board is being blocked tonight I hope and things should start moving forward quicker. Just trying to get everything done before digging into the build again like CF the LEPA G1600 PSU, CF the Cold Cathode box, the bracket to turn it on/off, etc. There are several little things I need to do so I don't need to break the system down when it comes time to do them because I will have the majority done. Things like the CF that I have to do on the last 360 radiator, that should be CF'd before installing so I don't have to break it down, remove 6 fans, etc to CF it. If its done before I install everything it just makes the clean up easier, so this is why I decided to take a little more time up front ot get things done now than the time it will take down the road.

Stay tuned...................... more to come :eek: :D
 
OK catching up on some of the progress and things the last couple days.

Picked up ten of the Bitspower Black Sparkle compression fittings for this build.

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I always wanted one of these tools when I first saw it. So I finallly got one.

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Speaking of tools, Lutro0 Customs sells one that is a great sleeving helper.

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Yep - getting things ready to do cables once all the items are installed and loops tested.

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Showing the sizing differences between the Bitspower QDC and Koolance's. I bought the Bitspower ones thinking they were smaller - come to find out the Koolance ones are still smaller though I do like the looks of the Bitspower ones.

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The LEPA G1600 PSU after being modified. I took out the fan, took it apart and painted it. I removed the grill that was once on the face of tyhe fan to expose the fan like the other PSU I did to keep them equal in visual appeal.

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The Water Barrel portion of the case. I am still procrastinating on finishing this bottom portion off for some reason.

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Put some CF on the inverter box and hid it between the bays. Now I just need to custom the length and sleeve it and it will basically dissappear.
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The way I plan on answering the "How you gonna use dual PSU's in that thing?" questions......

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Showing the dual PSU's installed in the case.

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The EK SUPREME HF water block served us well for a couple years, but its time oto move over and let the Watercool Heatkiller CPU V3 take over.

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I know Dominator PLatinum is sexy RAM, there are other options out there that is also very appealing, but I chose to go with this set for two reasons. One I can fully populate all DIMM slots for visual appeal. Also, its the best timed RAM I found at 1866Mhz and 32GB kit that works at these lower timings, so I chose this set to use in Frank this go round. So far they are working rather well for me, but I really have not tried to OC yet as most of the system has been on air - now that we are water blocking and about to go water cooled, OC itme will begin - then we shall see how this RAM does.

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Watercool Heatkiller CPU V3 Waterblock on a Rampage Extreme IV 2011 board

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DiNoc'oing can be an addiciton I think. Once you start, you just see so many things that wyou can cover with it, sometimes you just loose yourself and nothing is safe........
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Showing some brokeh like only my Canon fixed 50mm can do for me.

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And now some shots of the motherboard and it sitting on the motherboard tray.

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The1stCAV said:
Well the Silverstone 850W was given to me by my uncle, its fully modular, so I was happy to receive it, dress it up in CF, and use it. Honestly I know 850W is overkill, but when you get one for free - use it. The only point I can see something potentially connecting would be the pumps and fans will be monitored through the Heatmaster. The Heatmaster will run independent of the Motherboard, but can be connected via USB to program. This USB connection would be the only time I see that one item powered by one PSU will be connected to another item powered by the other PSU. However this is only a data connection, but USB does draw some power as well. This would be the only time. Else, everything powered by the one PSU will run and be totally independent of the other, except for the initial start up dual PSU module I will be using and that is simply to signal to the second PSU - OK turn on and start running your things.
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Data connections are the ones to worry about actually, as they are not designed for high currents. I guess you will have to see how it goes, but if it dies at some point you will know why :)

Honestly since the USB is only connected part of the time you could program it initially using the fans & pumps plugged into the same psu as the system. Then when you switch to running mode you can move the fans/pumps to the other psu, and un-hook the usb.

In all reality I doubt you would have a problem running everything, fans, pumps, included from that Lepa 1600. If you had Quad SLI, or 3-4 Titans, I might think differently but 680's are not too bad on power really.
 
ekuest said:
that is ridiculously gorgeous.
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Thanks - I think I have to agree :cool:

extide said:
Data connections are the ones to worry about actually, as they are not designed for high currents. I guess you will have to see how it goes, but if it dies at some point you will know why :)

Honestly since the USB is only connected part of the time you could program it initially using the fans & pumps plugged into the same psu as the system. Then when you switch to running mode you can move the fans/pumps to the other psu, and un-hook the usb.

In all reality I doubt you would have a problem running everything, fans, pumps, included from that Lepa 1600. If you had Quad SLI, or 3-4 Titans, I might think differently but 680's are not too bad on power really.
Click to expand...

Yeah but I like knowing I have more power than I need. Better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. So, still think I will be good with dual PSU's as long as I keep things partitioned as discussed. Who knows what the future holds - it may be three Titans or another 680 - who knows. Good thing is this is being built so if I need it, its there.

deadlift1 said:
What no CF on the RAM heatsinks?
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lmao - really I was thinking about doing it - then well, they are heat sinks trying to keep things cool, so that would be like insulating them. So I decided not such a good idea.
 
I think you need more CF. How about the screws and stuff? No CF for them? But please, don't CF the dog.:D
 
The1stCAV said:
lmao - really I was thinking about doing it - then well, they are heat sinks trying to keep things cool, so that would be like insulating them. So I decided not such a good idea.
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How about a racing stripe of black CF just like on the GPU blocks? Just a thin strip to tie it in with everything else.
 
wra18th said:
I think you need more CF. How about the screws and stuff? No CF for them? But please, don't CF the dog.:D
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Well the daughter took the dog quoting something like "its mine, you bought it for me" (even though we took care of it for years 24/7 - all of a sudden its "her dog" - so long story short and a very sore subject with me - there is no dog, so she is safe from CF fun.....

Screws? too small, PITA to do, not fun.

I'll find more to CF though - don't worry Wra18th :D

deadlift1 said:
How about a racing stripe of black CF just like on the GPU blocks? Just a thin strip to tie it in with everything else.
Click to expand...

Hmm, you mean do a thin strip on the RAM modules? Hmm interesting...............


I was asked if I would list out the parts I used in this build – well I took care of two discussions below actually – one was to inform those who wish to take the plunge, what the financial waters really feel like. The second is to list out really everything I have purchased to date to show what all is actually going into Frank N SteinPC.

I did not do this with my last builds for multiple reasons. I really didn’t want to do it this time either, but for information sake and to be able to answer these kinds of questions as well as allow me to understand where I am at in this build, I had to begin documenting what all I have purchased. As I did, I realized I probably should show everyone how something like this can get out of hand quickly.

For those of us that do this level of building/modding because we love it and are not sponsored, it takes a good chunk of change to build a beast like “Frank N Stein”. This is why many parts that can be repurposed from the last build will be making the migration to this new build. Many other parts have been previously ordered and put in use to only be removed, and then repurposed again as they were intended to be a part of this build such as the RE4, the three GTX 680’s etc all are coming from the last build, but are actually factored into this builds costs for obvious reasons. I had an unfortunate watercooling incident that forced an upgrade at the end of December that took me from an upgrade in the 800D with the previous hardware, to purchasing all new hardware and just doing a major epic build.

I have to get the costing discussion out of the way up front because this is a question that comes up more than anything else – “what kind of money do you have in that build?”. There are times people look at the builds and think costing is what you see. This many times is not the case, there is a ton more costs associated with this level of build many people never really consider nor factor in – then realized once knee deep into a build why they went so far over budget.

Epic builds cost epic money typically, so we should be on par. Also keep in mind - this needs to be something one wants to do, because once you open a package it basically just dropped by 1/2 in price. You can end up spending $10k on a build that is only worth at face value, something like $5k - because all that time invested is not taken into consideration, details are lost in the cost, and prices change, things go cheap when used, etc. So it’s not like this is an investment either - in a year its worth even less. A year after that - you had better love the work you did because it’s not going to be worth anything to anyone else but you in two to three years. So some thoughts to consider if you want to take the dive into the extreme..........Piece parts add up.

The average browsers would look at a build and consider those “in your face” items as “the build”. If I were to just list the main components, the list/costing would look something like this:
  • 1x Asus Rampage IV Extreme Socket 2011 $429.99
  • 3x EVGA GTX 680 4G w/Backplates $1,679.97
  • 1x Asus Xonar Phoebus 7.1 Sound Card 229.99
  • 1x Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73930K 569.99
  • 3x Watercool Heatkiller waterblocks and backplates + SLI block $469.06
  • 1x Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156 Ni-BL CPU Water Block 89.99
  • 1x G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (8 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9Q2-32GBZL $218.83
TOTAL: $3,687.82
However then you really start adding up the piece parts, the pretty stuff, the water cooling parts, and the tools you need to purchase to do the things you need to do and the costing picture changes drastically:
  • 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm $95.99
  • 1 x Alphacool Repack - Dual Laing D5 - Dual 5.25 Bay Station $83.99
  • 1 x Lamptron 8" Dual Cathode Light Kit - Red - Sleeved $17.99
  • 2 x Bitspower BP-MVV-BK Mini-Valve - Black Sparkle $37.98
  • 1 x Fluid XP+ EXT (Extreme Performance) Coolant - Blood Red $34.95
  • 4 x APEVIA HDD LED + Power LED Switch Combo $15.80
  • 2 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal $171.98
  • 5 x Adjustable/Ladder Cable Clamps - Gray $2.45
  • 2 x Cable Clamp - Large $2.98
  • 2 x Cable Clamp - Medium $2.58
  • 1 x PP Heavy Duty Zip Ties 7-8" $2.99
  • 1 x Bitspower Flow Indicator (BP-FI-CLBKBK) - Clear/Black/Black Sparkle $22.95
  • 1 x Delrin Vandal Resistant Illuminated Switch 16mm Black - Red Dot $11.95
  • 12 x PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Crystal Clear $33.00
  • 2 x Bitspower BP-BSWP-C60 G1/4" Black Sparkle IG1/4" Extender - 15mm $9.98
  • 2 x Bitspower BP-BSWP-C62 G1/4" Black Sparkle IG1/4" Extender - 25mm $11.98
  • 2 x Bitspower BP-BSWP-C65 G1/4" Black Sparkle IG1/4" Extender - 50mm $15.98
  • 4 x Bitspower BP-BSDG14AALPI Black Sparkle Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31mm) $27.80
  • 1 x Delrin Vandal Resistant Illuminated Switch Black - 22mm Red Ring $12
  • 4 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Stop Fitting $19.96
  • 2 x Bitspower Premium G1/4" "Stubby" High Flow 1/2" Fitting - Black Sparkle $16.00
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-BSDG14AALPI Black Sparkle Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31mm) $6.95
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-BSDG14AALPII Black Sparkle Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe II (41-69mm) $11.95
  • 1 x EK-FB KIT RE4 - Acetal CSQ (4 Fittings) $117.95
  • 2 x Xigmatek "Crystal Series" 140x25mm LED Fan - Retail - Red $29.98
  • 4 x Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Triple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4" $75.80
  • 2 x Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shiny Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 1/2" OD 3/4" $31.90
  • 3 x Xigmatek "Crystal Series" 120x25mm LED Fan - Retail - Red $38.97
  • 1 x Akasa PaxMate PLUS Premium Noise Reduction Kit $17.95
  • 2 x Connectx™ ATX 24 pin Female Pins, GOLD-plated - 24 Pack $7.98
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-XSLEDPH-RD X-Station LED Power Hub - Red LED Light $14.95
  • 1 x Bitspower X-Station Multi-PSU Active Module - Red $17.95
  • 30 x Adjustable Cable Clamp for Wiring with Adhesive Bottom 3/4in - Black $10.50
  • 1 x Mod/Smart AcrylPanel™ 3mm - 480x480mm Clear $14.95
  • 1 x Thermaltake RC1600101A MAX-1562 5.25" Mobile Rack - 6x 2.5" Bays $74.95
  • 10 x PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Bloodshed Red $27.50
  • 4 x Connectx™ ATX 24-pin Female connector housing - Black $3.96
  • 3 x Bitspower Crystal T-Block - 180 Degree Water Cooling Accessory $11.97
  • 2 x Monsoon G1/4 Premium Silicone O-Ring 10 Pack - UV Red $5.98
  • 30 x Pro Male 3-Pin Fan Pins - 3 Pack $11.70
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-2D5TOPP-BK Dual D5 Mod Top (POM Version) $94.95
  • 30 x mod/smart 3+1 Pin Fan Power Connector - Cover for Male Pins - Black $30.00
  • 3 x mod/smart 8-Pin Female ATX Power Connector- Black $3.00
  • 2 x mod/smart 4-pin Female 12v Pentium 4 Power Connector - Black $2.00
  • 1 x Phobya ATX/VGA Power Connector Pin Female - 20 pcs $1.95
  • 4 x Phobya Thermal Pad XT 7W/mk 1.5mm (120x20mm) for Ramplex, Innovatek, Mips, Koolance $23.96
  • 2 x Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Mod Kit - Black Sparkle Finish $79.90
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-CLTAC-S5 Crystal Link Tube Set For 5-Slots $5.50
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-CLTAC-S4 Crystal Link Tube Set For 4-Slots $5.50
  • 2 x Bitspower BP-BSWP-C48 G1/4" Black Sparkle Multi-Link Adapter - Mini - Set of 2 $21.90
  • 1 x Bitspower BP-CLTAC-S3 Crystal Link Tube Set For 3-Slots $4.99
  • 8 x Bitspower BP-BSWP-C64 G1/4" Black Sparkle IG1/4" Extender - 40mm $55.92
  • 4 x Bitspower Crystal "Stop" Fitting G1/4" with O-Ring & 5mm LED Holder $11.96
  • 1 x Alphacool Heatmaster $89.95
  • 1 x Koolance Flow Meter Frequency Adapter for INS-FM17N $19.99
  • 1 x Koolance INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter [no nozzles] $19.99
  • 4 x ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 5-Way Block $17.00
  • 2 x ModMyToys HELIOS - Premium LED Spotlight - White $21.90
  • 1 x Helping Hand Stand with Magnifier and Flex-Neck LED Light $18.95
  • 2 x Bitspower Black Sparkle Quick-Disconnected Female With G1/4” $29.90
  • 2 x Bitspower Black Sparkle Quick-Disconnected Male With Inner G1/4” $39.90
  • 2 x Bitspower Black Sparkle Quick-Disconnected Female With Inner G1/4” $29.90
  • 2 x Bitspower Black Sparkle Quick-Disconnected Male With G1/4” $39.90
  • 4 x ModMyToys 6-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 5-Way Block $17.00
  • 4 x SATA 3.0 (6Gbit/s) Round Cable Straight to Right - 6" - Black $11.56
  • 1 x Nexus PCI-300 PCI Ventilation Brackets $2.98
  • 1 x TEKTON 6588 Heavy-Duty Hollow Punch Set, 12-Piece $10.62
  • 2 x High Quality Chrome Computer Case Thumbscrews, 6-32 Thread (10-Pack) $4.59
  • 1 x Antec Nano Diamond Thermal Compound Formula 7 $10.03
  • 1 x Vermont American 21117 4MM-.70 High Carbon Steel Metric Plug Tap $5.75
  • 2 x Koolance Coolant Fill Port / Drain Valve - G1/4 Threaded - PRT-XGK $10.98
  • 1 x SE 813PK Hobby Knife, 16-Piece $4.95
  • 2 x COSMOS 5.25-Inch Trayless Mobile Rack for 3.5-Inch Internal HDD Hard Drive $29.94
  • 2 x Gloss Black 3M DI-NOC Carbon Fiber DINOC Flex Wrap CA-1170 48"x12" $45.98
  • 3 x SilenX EFX-12-15 Effizio Silent 120mm Case Fan $29.97
  • 1 x Koolance Flow Meter Frequency Adapter - ADT-FM03 $22.99
  • 2 x Koolance Coolant Temperature Sensor Plug 50K Ohm - SEN-AP006G $18.98
  • 1 x Koolance Coolant Inline Flow Meter - G1/4 Threaded Female Ports - INS-FM17N $19.99
  • 1 x EKWB EK-Ekoolant Blood RED (premix 1000mL) Liquid Coolant 3830046999610 $12.49
  • 9 x SilenX EFX-12-15 Effizio Silent 120mm Case Fan $89.91
  • 1 x RED 18AWG Stranded 600V Hook Up Wire - 100' Roll $18.99
  • 1 x Arctic Silver Artic clean Thermal Cooling Material Remover and Surface Purifier (ACN-60ML) $4.99
  • 1 x Self Healing Green Cutting Mat 18 x 24 inches $21.10
  • 1 x Socket Cap Screws/Hex Socket Screws M4 x 10MM (Pack of 100) $10.93
  • 1 x Socket Cap Screws/Hex Socket Screws M4 x 30MM (Pack of 100) $16.17
  • 2 x Bitspower G1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting $15.78
  • 2 x Lamptron Red/Silver tailed LED $11.98
  • 10 x 10 x Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Rotary Compression Fitting 1/2"ID $96.70
  • 1 x mm - black pdwr coat upcharge on Water Barrel 24 $50.00
  • 1 x Mountain Mods Extended U2-UFO & Water Barrel 24 2w/Custom Panels $949.97
  • 1x 001 RICHCO FCC-16-3-RT 40 .3668E $14.67
  • 1x 002 RICHCO FCC-8-3-RT 30 357.56M $10.73
  • 1x Red Semi-Gloss 3M DI-NOC Carbon Fiber DINOC Flex Wrap CA-5429 4ft x 2ft (48in x 24in) (8 Sq/ft)] $64.97
  • 1x Metro Red Chrome Mirror Vinyl 12in Width $5.99
  • 1x Rapid Tac 4oz Sprayer $7.99
  • 1x Metric 316 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M4 Thread, 45MM Length, .7MM Pitch, Packs of 25 $6.11
  • 1x FrozenCPU MMNPCTECH MOD Tool $43.98
  • 1x Fastenal M4 x 25mm Medium Thread (QTY 25) $18.26
  • 3x Xigmatek "Crystal Series" 120x25mm LED Fan - Retail - Red $59.73
  • 6x ENERMAX Magma 120mm Red $95.94
  • 1x IC Diamond Thermal Compound $6.99
  • 2x Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7,200 RPM HDD $179.98
  • 6x XIGMATEK FCB (Fluid Circulative Bearing) Crystal Series CLF-F1252 120mm Red LED $65.94
  • 1x MDPC Sleeving and connectors $230.90
  • 1x 12" x 60" RED CARBON FIBER 3D Professional Grade Wrap Vinyl Film Sheet $14.50
  • 1x 100 Silver Chrome thumb case screws - ebay $15.98
  • 1x Lutro0 Customs $18.00
  • 1x Asus Rampage IV Extreme Socket 2011 $429.99
  • 3x EVGA GTX 680 4G w/Backplates $1,679.97
  • 1x Asus Xonar Phoebus 7.1 Sound Card 229.99
  • 1x Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73930K 569.99
  • 3x Watercool Heatkiller waterblocks and backplates + SLI block $469.06
  • 1x Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156 Ni-BL CPU Water Block 89.99
  • 1x G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (8 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9Q2-32GBZL $218.83
TOTAL: $7,935.78

Now keep in mind – this does not include shipping costs or the costs of things being brought over from the previous build such as:
  • 1x LEPA G1600 PSU $302.22
  • 1x Silverstone 850W PSU (donated by Uncle) $129.99
  • 7x Xigmatech Crystal Series 120mm Red LED fans $69.93
  • 2x Corsair Force GT 120GB SSD $299.98
  • 2x Patriot Pyro SE 120GB SSD $339.98
  • 2x D5/MCP655 Pumps $168.98
  • 1x Swiftech 360 Radiator $65.99
  • 1x Black Ice Xtreme 360 Radiator $119.95
  • 2x Lamptron Fan-Atic 3-Way Switch Baybus (12V, 7V, OFF), 60W Per Channel $89.97
  • 1x DVD/BR Player/Burner $199.99
  • 1x WD Caviar Black 2TB HDD $229.99
  • Watercool Heatkiller MO-RA3 LT Radiator $159.99
    TOTAL $2,176.96

    Or the rest of the external peripherals that I will not list out, but you can now see how something like this can really start to grow – point is this “hobby” can be quite the drain on the pocket book if you are not aware fully of all the things lurking in the corners you will find yourself needing. Now keep in mind, this was to be an epic build.

    So now you are informed – and those that want to know what kind of money goes into a build like this – there you have it. Now when you look at those rigs in forums that just make you drool – don’t just look at them at face value – there are details and costs there that are totally unseen to give you that finished product you are looking at.

    Epic builds cost epic money typically, so we should be on par.
 
Robertmarcus said:
Mother of materials, thats alot of pretty items...
Click to expand...

FTFY

also 1stcav, if you really are thinking of doing the RAM with CF (i assumed you wouldnt because of how much work it would be) i was thinking doing black in the six little grooves on each side might look pretty good. it would be a PITA and take forever to do both sides on all 8 sticks, but then again after seeing what you've gone through CFing other parts of this build i wouldn't put it past you... :D
 
Robertmarcus said:
Mother of materials, thats alot of petty items...
Click to expand...

Yeah, right? Surprised even me when I was putting it together, I was like oh crap, that's a lot of stuff.........

wra18th said:
Save me some. I will have a little project this spring. I'm modding an old Lian Li PC60.
TOTAL: $7,935.78!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
Click to expand...

Lian Li makes some good cases, a few I have considered in the past as well. You of course will need to PM me and link me to that build. Unfortunately though, the CF will be gone by then. That's like asking a drinker to hold a bottle of JD for like 3 months without touching it, I mean seriously that's just not fair.

ekuest said:
FTFY

also 1stcav, if you really are thinking of doing the RAM with CF (i assumed you wouldnt because of how much work it would be) i was thinking doing black in the six little grooves on each side might look pretty good. it would be a PITA and take forever to do both sides on all 8 sticks, but then again after seeing what you've gone through CFing other parts of this build i wouldn't put it past you... :D
Click to expand...

Pretty and petty- the same in the case of that list - yeah mucho petty and pretty items in that list.

The black CF on the RAM I may revisit once the system is up and running - that is the main focus atm is to get operational now. So things are going together to get Frank running. Then piece by piece, cable by cable the clean up begins.....
 
The1stCAV said:
mbset006.png
Click to expand...


I didnt see that before. It looks like it shorts together all of the main rails. If you have an ohm-meter you can test for continuity between the pins which would be grounds on each connector, and likewise for the +12, etc. If they do connect all together then you are probably pretty safe.

I hate to be a party pooper but so many people just don't realize what they are doing when they hook up multiple power supplies. :)

This really is a beautiful build. I really don't usually follow build threads, but for some reason this one just intrigues me :)
 
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