First Watercooling Build

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Gilbert_pwns

Gawd
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Nov 13, 2010
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This is kind of a continued thread from here: https://hardforum.com/threads/noob-watercooling-kit-with-thick-rad.1973515/


This is what I have so far:

2018-12-21 00.56.20.jpg

Had a hard time fitting my D5 140 pump and res but looked up a few builds in this case and the best place seems to be right against the rear of the case. I ordered a block for my gpu and a 360 rad so Ill be redoing the loop once I get the parts. One of my questions is it better to have a standard 360 rad or a 360 slim rad with push/pull fan config? Id rather have a regular rad with the case fans I already have.
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For rads & fans it depends on how much heat you will need to dissipate and how much noise you are willing to tolerate.

In general a thinner rad is often less restrictive to air as a thicker one. You would get more mileage out of the extra set of fans with the thicker rad due to its more restrictive nature. A thinner, less restrictive rad is usually just fine with a single set of fans pushing air through it.

Another factor you might want to think about - a fan's SP (static pressure) spec. Fans with higher static pressure have an easier time pushing air through restrictive rads easier negating the need for a set of fans to help 'pull' pulling. The tradeoff is with fans that have a higher SP spec tend spool up to higher RPMs and be a little louder than their more cfm-oriented counterparts making them somewhat louder when your fan controller spools them up. If you are doing the push/pull thing, you can get away with quieter fans that have less SP.
 
I do not know the case, but what I would recommend...

If you can relocate the hard drives, put them in the rear of the case and mount the pump sideways down there. It then could possibly go Pump > GPU > CPU> Top Rad > Front Rad.

If you cannot and/or want to keep the pump in the back of the case, I would flip the Top rad around 180 degrees and see if that helps shorten the loop (it shouldn't help performance at all, but that long initial line from the pump to the rad could be worked better.) You might be able to go pump > bottom grommet > GPU > CPU > Top Rad > top grommet and make the run a little nicer.

They also have what are known as xflow radiators, meaning instead of it being a U channel (like your current setup), you would have two ports on the opposite ends of the radiator. Would help with running tubing.
 
I redid the loop and put the pump/res in the front of the case. Will finalize it once my gpu block is done.

2018-12-24 16.52.46.jpg

Not a fan of how the lines have to cross because the inlets and outlets on the block and pump are the opposite of where I would like them to be.

Hakaba said:
I do not know the case, but what I would recommend...

If you can relocate the hard drives, put them in the rear of the case and mount the pump sideways down there. It then could possibly go Pump > GPU > CPU> Top Rad > Front Rad.

If you cannot and/or want to keep the pump in the back of the case, I would flip the Top rad around 180 degrees and see if that helps shorten the loop (it shouldn't help performance at all, but that long initial line from the pump to the rad could be worked better.) You might be able to go pump > bottom grommet > GPU > CPU > Top Rad > top grommet and make the run a little nicer.
Click to expand...

I really want the drives to stay where they are. Did not like the pump/res in the back chamber its just so hard to fit it in the main. It is the most difficult part of the process so far.
 
2018-12-26 17.34.30.jpg

GPU block came in today. Unfortunately I got the wrong backplate. Old pump was leaking so I had to change that out as well. 360 slim rad barely fits, not cause of the radiator itself but access to the ports is limited. Had to remove the RGB fans. Atleast the temps are nice.
 
It’s coming along, give it a few and you might find a better way to position components. Glad the leaking pump didn’t ruin anything.
 
That case definitely looks like a tight squeeze for 2 rads. Possible to flip your CPU block to avoid crossing the tubes over?
 
Manual says it only goes in one way and I'm okay with how it is. Bubbles seem to be disappearing. No leaks as far as I can tell.

Temps are actually great and benefitted the 1080 ti more than anything. 10c decrease on idle. Can now overclock the thing without artifacts showing up. I don't think it even goes past 40c. Just have to install the backplate tomorrow. Gonna try to do it without reinstalling the loop or moving anything. Then I'll sleeve the pump cables.
 
2018-12-29 13.36.52.jpg
And there you go...

Backplate installed. Sleeved the pump cables. Tidied up power cables with combs. 140mm exhaust fan added. Added two RGB strips. Res almost completely cleared of bubbles.

Very pleased with the GPU temps. Was able to overclock it. Tons of headroom left.

Very proud of this build.
 
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