First PC Build since 2010... after doing my homework, how does this look?

Sounds like a solid plan but im not much of an external storage officionado. You would probably be better off starting a new thread in the storage section just to be certain your getting the right kind of drives for your use case. I never had problems saving to my old hdd but if your going to be doing large file transfers or time sensitive back ups(mine certainly weren't) there may be specific types of m.2s, ssds or hdds you want to focus on. Im just spit balling here but i would hate for you to drop a couple bills on storage only to regret not going with something else.
 
Here's the final storage config following y'all's advice :

C (Windows) = 980 Pro M.2 nvme 1TB
D (Docs) = 870 Evo 2.5" 1TB
E (Backup 1) = 870 Evo 2.5" 1TB
F (Backup 2) = WD My Passport Portable External 4TB

Both E+F were on special today, so I picked up one of each.
(I intend to use E as an extra Adobe scratch disk as well as backups.)
The second (currently empty) M.2 nvme slot will likely receive another 980 Pro some day.
 
hititnquitit As I approach my new magnificent beast (that P600S case truly is gorgeous to look at) to install the second 870 Evo 2.5" (560mbs/530mbs read/write speeds) in the case, I am reminded that there were only 2 SATA cables provided, and one has a 90-degree angle end that makes it useless with my set-up. So looks like I'm headed back to the store for a SATA cable tomorrow.

My question is... do I need to go out of my way to make sure I pick up a good Sata3 cable specifically (which is what the ones that came with the board appear to be), or will anything that fits in the socket be just as good (including the red Sata cables from the 11 year-old Asus P6T build I just retired)? Speed-wise, I guess is my main concern.
 
Last edited:
JYeager11 said:
hititnquitit As I approach my new magnificent beast (that P600S case truly is gorgeous to look at) to install the second 870 Evo 2.5" (560mbs/530mbs read/write speeds) in the case, I am reminded that there were only 2 SATA cables provided, and one has a 90-degree angle end that makes it useless with my set-up. So looks like I'm headed back to the store for a SATA cable tomorrow.

My question is... do I need to go out of my way to make sure I pick up a good Sata3 cable specifically (which is what the ones that came with the board appear to be), or will anything that fits in the socket be just as good (including the red Sata cables from the 11 year-old Asus P6T build I just retired)? Speed-wise, I guess is my main concern.
Click to expand...
Its probably sata2 so i would grab a new one(they are cheap)but for the short term the old one will work.
 
hititnquitit Forgot I need to format the second 870 Evo SSD.
MBR or GPT?
If the latter is destined to replace the former, I have no issues going w/ GPT.
(Unless there's something I'm not taking into consideration that I should.)
 
hititnquitit said:
Gpt, what did you use for your main drive?
Click to expand...
That would be the 980 Pro m.2 nvme... I don't remember it asking me. Only plugging everything in, and going into Windows 10 installation off the bootable usb media. But after checking everything, I can report that all drives appear to be GPT / NTFS; except the external usb storage devices, which are exfat.
 
Last edited:
So everything's going well so far? Psu power cable hasnt burst into flames? ;D

I keep forgetting to check one of mine, i havent opened my office door in so long ive nearly forgotten i have one.
 
hititnquitit said:
So everything's going well so far? Psu power cable hasnt burst into flames? ;D

I keep forgetting to check one of mine, i havent opened my office door in so long ive nearly forgotten i have one.
Click to expand...
Although it's been mostly program installing and configuring since I turned it on for the first time, it averages about 40C idle temp, and never peaked higher than 70's. This is with only the 3 fans the P600S shipped with, no add-ons (the roof of the case has zero fans, and all the lids are closed). I also noticed the chipset fan (as reported before) never seems to spin. Like, ever. And it appears to idle around 49-50C. I asked the person who helped me build it if we might've forgotten to plug that fan in, and he told me the Tomahawk's chipset fan is embedded on the board and doesn't need plugging. So I guess (and hope) that the chipset fan is waiting for 60C or more before spinning.

The Seasonic PSU supposedly has 3 modes, but I haven't looked into them. Should I? I guess I'm currently at whatever the default is.

And finally, there isn't a component (so far) that I would change with the benefit of hindsight... from the cpu to the ram to the storage, I wouldn't change a thing, except perhaps give more thought to springing $100 more for the Unity instead of the Tomahawk. Not that there's anything wrong with the Tomahawk; but after comparing M.2 nvme speeds with Sata SSD, the extra (third) m.2 slot might've eventually come in handy... unless we find out in a few years that they don't RETAIN information as long (ie, aren't as safe).
 
JYeager11 said:
Although it's been mostly program installing and configuring since I turned it on for the first time, it averages about 40C idle temp, and never peaked higher than 70's. This is with only the 3 fans the P600S shipped with, no add-ons (the roof of the case has zero fans, and all the lids are closed). I also noticed the chipset fan (as reported before) never seems to spin. Like, ever. And it appears to idle around 49-50C. I asked the person who helped me build it if we might've forgotten to plug that fan in, and he told me the Tomahawk's chipset fan is embedded on the board and doesn't need plugging. So I guess (and hope) that the chipset fan is waiting for 60C or more before spinning.

The Seasonic PSU supposedly has 3 modes, but I haven't looked into them. Should I? I guess I'm currently at whatever the default is.

And finally, there isn't a component (so far) that I would change with the benefit of hindsight... from the cpu to the ram to the storage, I wouldn't change a thing, except perhaps give more thought to springing $100 more for the Unity instead of the Tomahawk. Not that there's anything wrong with the Tomahawk; but after comparing M.2 nvme speeds with Sata SSD, the extra (third) m.2 slot might've eventually come in handy... unless we find out in a few years that they don't RETAIN information as long (ie, aren't as safe).
Click to expand...
thats normal for the chipset fan, yeah i think 60 is the on point.

if youre happy with its noise, leave it.

unless youre doing big file transfers, working with very large files or benchmarking, you will barely notice a difference.
 
Good to hear! Sometimes less is more regarding fans. Ive found that most cases dont benefit from having fans up top unless the cpu is getting hot and even then i only use one as an inlet right in front of the hsf or if theres a rad mounted there of course. Otherwise i dont occupy them unless its been specifically requested(always rgb). Theres just not much if any benefit if you follow the ages old front/side/bottom in, top/back out guidelines.
The three settings on your psu are fanless, silent and cooling modes. It comes default in cooling? I forget. Cooling is the fan is always on(pwm). I never change it from cooling so ive forgotten exactly what the other two are, one only comes on underload...i think. Youll have to check your manual or the website. Anyhow cooling will be virtually silent anyhow and keep it the coolest, increasing longevity. The fan is so quiet even ramped up its hard to hear.
The chipset fan. Sooo many people freaked out over there being a chipset fan on the 570 boards it was hilarious!(Which is the main reason the asus dark hero exists and the 570S series was created). Only to find that they never came on, as your seeing :) altho initially some manufacturers set them up a little more aggressively because the chipset was supposed to be so hot when oced. Which led to those same panicky folks freaking out all over again until updated bios were released.
Anyhow, glad to hear shes kickin ass and takin names!

From the Seasonic website.
DO NOT press the button if you wish to include the Fanless Mode, which means the fan in the power supply will not spin when the power supply is under light loads. Press the button if you wish to have the fan spin at all times, even at lower loads.
 
hititnquitit said:
The chipset fan. Sooo many people freaked out over there being a chipset fan on the 570 boards it was hilarious!(Which is the main reason the asus dark hero exists and the 570S series was created). Only to find that they never came on, as your seeing :) altho initially some manufacturers set them up a little more aggressively because the chipset was supposed to be so hot when oced. Which led to those same panicky folks freaking out all over again until updated bios were released.
Click to expand...
So you're saying a 50C idle chipset temp + a fan that never *needs* to turn on are *not* reasons to start flipping tables and eating my neighbors?

hititnquitit said:
From the Seasonic website.
DO NOT press the button if you wish to include the Fanless Mode, which means the fan in the power supply will not spin when the power supply is under light loads. Press the button if you wish to have the fan spin at all times, even at lower loads.
Click to expand...
See, now you went and made me anxious for real. :-/ I don't remember AT ALL what we did during the PSU installation, I might've left that to my friend. And he had never heard of Seasonic before that night, so... is there somewhere in BIOS that I can go check to see if the PSU is in the right "mode"? (I'd rather not go futz around the hardware if it can be avoided.)

Also, if there are 3 modes, wouldn't the "middle" one be the sweet spot of noise vs efficiency vs energy saving?
 
JYeager11 said:
So you're saying a 50C idle chipset temp + a fan that never *needs* to turn on are *not* reasons to start flipping tables and eating my neighbors?


See, now you went and made me anxious for real. :-/ I don't remember AT ALL what we did during the PSU installation, I might've left that to my friend. And he had never heard of Seasonic before that night, so... is there somewhere in BIOS that I can go check to see if the PSU is in the right "mode"? (I'd rather not go futz around the hardware if it can be avoided.)

Also, if there are 3 modes, wouldn't the "middle" one be the sweet spot of noise vs efficiency vs energy saving?
Click to expand...
Haha you got!

Youll have to push the button on the back of the psu to find out man. I dont remember which is which anymore.
 
hititnquitit said:
Haha you got!

Youll have to push the button on the back of the psu to find out man. I dont remember which is which anymore.
Click to expand...
(For whatever reason, the forum won't let me insert images in the body, so I have to use links.)

https://seasonic.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/feature-pics/focus-px-gx-hybrid-button.jpg

^ According to this, the button needs to be PUSHED to have "Fanless Mode" disabled... which feels like the opposite of what it should be, from a UX perspective. Which may explain why mine wasn't pressed. I just pressed it.

Why? Because last night, for the first time on this new PC, I got a major error while installing larger applications. I had HWINFO running during the install (I'm addicted to live temp monitoring) and saw temps shoot up to 70C in the middle of the process (which I'm told is still a pretty safe zone to be in) when I got a Windows error I've never seen before, forcing a restart mid-operation. Since HWINFO doesn't seem to monitor PSU temps, I have no idea if, while in fanless mode, it might've shot up (although I can't imagine even the largest software installations in the world affecting PSU temps). During the forced reboot, I opened up the case's side panels (can't hurt) and once back in Windows, everything looked normal; like it had never happened. I restarted the big installation that crashed hard the first time, and this time it went through without a hitch.

Was it a completely random occurance that isn't likely to happen again and should be ignored? Or was it my suddenly putting the PC's pedal to the metal for this big installation + having fanless mode enabled on the PSU that somehow combined to cause this? Could it be the ram sticks playing a part, as I would assume they were heavily solicited during this big installation? I may never find out.

But if you look here...

https://seasonic.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/feature-pics/s3fc.gif

...you'll notice the "YES-FAN" mode (for lack of a better term) is divided in 2 parts : SILENT + COOLING, and there's no button for those. How do I alternate between silent and cooling modes? Or is that done automatically?
 
Last edited:
The PSU will take care of itself. CPU spiking in temp doesn't necessarily mean the PSU temp also spiked. Sure it means more power runs through it, but the PSU won't be hot enough to trigger fans for an install like that. I would find it to be more likely for you to have issues somewhere else than a Seasonic PSU...
 
Schro said:
The PSU will take care of itself. CPU spiking in temp doesn't necessarily mean the PSU temp also spiked. Sure it means more power runs through it, but the PSU won't be hot enough to trigger fans for an install like that. I would find it to be more likely for you to have issues somewhere else than a Seasonic PSU...
Click to expand...
Where would you propose I look for clues? It was right in the middle of a 20GB installation (a suite of apps). I also had YouTube playing on a browser on the same screen, which could have played into the event.

I've since installed the latest game-ready driver (471.41) for the GTX-750 ti, which is the only legacy part I carried over from my previous build (as a temp GPU until 3060/3070 prices fall). I assume that until that point, it was using whatever Windows uses to drive these cards. Figured it couldn't hurt. (Or could it?)
 
JYeager11 said:
Where would you propose I look for clues? It was right in the middle of a 20GB installation (a suite of apps). I also had YouTube playing on a browser on the same screen, which could have played into the event.

I've since installed the latest game-ready driver (471.41) for the GTX-750 ti, which is the only legacy part I carried over from my previous build (as a temp GPU until 3060/3070 prices fall). I assume that until that point, it was using whatever Windows uses to drive these cards. Figured it couldn't hurt. (Or could it?)
Click to expand...
Windows drivers are usually ok for generic stuff but not for gpus. You are much better off using the latest recommended driver for your card.

As far as the restart, it very well may have been the gpu that caused the crash(because of yt running) but its hard to say for certain. I wouldnt worry about it now that you have the nv driver installed.
Im sure youll find other hitches and glitches as you finalize your install. Thats just part of the fun of building your own rig man! :D
 
JYeager11 said:
Where would you propose I look for clues? It was right in the middle of a 20GB installation (a suite of apps). I also had YouTube playing on a browser on the same screen, which could have played into the event.

I've since installed the latest game-ready driver (471.41) for the GTX-750 ti, which is the only legacy part I carried over from my previous build (as a temp GPU until 3060/3070 prices fall). I assume that until that point, it was using whatever Windows uses to drive these cards. Figured it couldn't hurt. (Or could it?)
Click to expand...
It'll take a bit more testing to figure that out. Sure, could be the drivers for the GPU, chipset, bios revision, memory not liking the configured timing, processor not happy about the 70s (Ryzen tends to hold itself back starting around 67, some will crash in the 70s), or any number of other things.

You've got to work on isolating the problem - stress different components and see what happens? Find a way to make the issue repeatable and then swap components until the culprit is found....
 
Schro said:
It'll take a bit more testing to figure that out. Sure, could be the drivers for the GPU, chipset, bios revision, memory not liking the configured timing, processor not happy about the 70s (Ryzen tends to hold itself back starting around 67, some will crash in the 70s), or any number of other things.
Click to expand...
Are you suggesting 70C is not a safe cpu temp? I was told not to worry unless it reaches mid-90s, to give the fans a chance to cool things down.

Because the peak temp on any given day is about 71C, according to HWINFO, although I've never witnessed it that high "live" (it's only ever gone as high as 50-something while I was looking)
 
JYeager11 said:
Are you suggesting 70C is not a safe cpu temp? I was told not to worry unless it reaches mid-90s, to give the fans a chance to cool things down.

Because the peak temp on any given day is about 71C, according to HWINFO, although I've never witnessed it that high "live" (it's only ever gone as high as 50-something while I was looking)
Click to expand...
no its fine. its just that they start to decrease the boost clock when over 68c. if youre only hitting that under stress testing, youre gtg.
 
JYeager11 said:
Are you suggesting 70C is not a safe cpu temp? I was told not to worry unless it reaches mid-90s, to give the fans a chance to cool things down.

Because the peak temp on any given day is about 71C, according to HWINFO, although I've never witnessed it that high "live" (it's only ever gone as high as 50-something while I was looking)
Click to expand...

As pendragon1 says, it is a safe temperature and it's probably the least likely issue that you're facing. Yes, boost clocks get pulled back when temps get over 68c and in most cases, you're not going to crash until you hit 80+ on Ryzens. While 90C temps won't kill the Ryzen, it's also not going to be stable. On the Intel side, I've gotten an OC'ed 10980XE to run Cinebench for hours at 96c (with the CPU drawing... uhh.. 500w from the wall) but that's a completely different thing.
 
Schro said:
As pendragon1 says, it is a safe temperature and it's probably the least likely issue that you're facing.
Click to expand...
If the temperatures are safe, couldn't it just have been my trying to install a 20GB suite while YouTube is playing high-res a/v on the same screen w/ a legacy video card on Windows-issued gpu drivers? I was able to install the suite right after the forced reboot (with nothing else going on, this time) and have since fetched the latest drivers for my card off Nvidia's site. Isn't there at least a fair chance that this error won't happen again, and I'd be wasting my time looking for an alternate cause?
 
JYeager11 said:
If the temperatures are safe, couldn't it just have been my trying to install a 20GB suite while YouTube is playing high-res a/v on the same screen w/ a legacy video card on Windows-issued gpu drivers? I was able to install the suite right after the forced reboot (with nothing else going on, this time) and have since fetched the latest drivers for my card off Nvidia's site. Isn't there at least a fair chance that this error won't happen again, and I'd be wasting my time looking for an alternate cause?
Click to expand...
yes, if its one off dont worry too much or we'll have to add a 23 to your name... ;)
 
pendragon1 said:
yes, if its one off dont worry too much or we'll have to add a 23 to your name... ;)
Click to expand...
I was calm but y'all are making me paranoid about the temps, now ;)
Just tell me it's normal that the CPU temp shoots up (from an idle 39C) to 55C just from loading Photoshop (which, by the way, takes 7 or 8 seconds now) before settling back down to an idle 39C, so I can relax a bit. But if there's anything AT ALL suspicious about that, I'll look into it. PS: Are the 2 16GB ram sticks okay in slots 2-4 rather than 1-3?
 
yeah its fine.
ram: depends on the board but the primary slot as usually, from left to right, the 2+4 slots.
 
So here's an update, after 2 weeks of daily usage.
  • Last BIOS time : It now takes 23.1 seconds to boot (14 seconds more than then 9 seconds it took on Day 1 : immediately after Windows installation, before the other software) <- Is this normal, or something I should be looking into?
  • CPU idle temp is 37-40C with all case panels closed (same as Day 1) - room temp is about 25C
  • CPU temp shoots up to 65C during boot-up before settling back down to idle (didn't measure this on Day 1)
  • On any given day, the hottest the CPU gets (the daily max) will be between 70-80C
  • GPU temp is 35C idle and I've only seen it go up to 40C when pushed (GTX-750-ti is the only legacy component in this build)
  • The major error I got while installing a software suite (while YouTube was playing) never returned after I installed Nvidia's latest game-ready drivers (instead of the Win 10 ones)
  • M.2 nvme sure does make SATA SSDs feel like HDDs (wow)
  • Can't say enough good things about the case, it's a gorgeous-looking tank. Only thing I'd change about it is putting the power button in front instead of on top (can't rest legs on it like I did my old case; at least not without risking turning PC off all the time).
  • The whole PC is silent, but not AS silent as I expected. Probably because my previous rig was 11 years old, and what was in there didn't require as much cooling as what has become the norm since. I'm going to assume today's PCs are much, much louder (by default) than those from over a decade ago, so this is likely a bigger win than it feels like.
  • I am now addicted to HWINFO, first thing I load after booting, will likely add it to startup programs eventually.
 
JYeager11 said:
So here's an update, after 2 weeks of daily usage.
  • Last BIOS time : It now takes 23.1 seconds to boot (14 seconds more than then 9 seconds it took on Day 1 : immediately after Windows installation, before the other software) <- Is this normal, or something I should be looking into?
  • CPU idle temp is 37-40C with all case panels closed (same as Day 1) - room temp is about 25C
  • CPU temp shoots up to 65C during boot-up before settling back down to idle (didn't measure this on Day 1)
  • On any given day, the hottest the CPU gets (the daily max) will be between 70-80C
  • GPU temp is 35C idle and I've only seen it go up to 40C when pushed (GTX-750-ti is the only legacy component in this build)
  • The major error I got while installing a software suite (while YouTube was playing) never returned after I installed Nvidia's latest game-ready drivers (instead of the Win 10 ones)
  • M.2 nvme sure does make SATA SSDs feel like HDDs (wow)
  • Can't say enough good things about the case, it's a gorgeous-looking tank. Only thing I'd change about it is putting the power button in front instead of on top (can't rest legs on it like I did my old case; at least not without risking turning PC off all the time).
  • The whole PC is silent, but not AS silent as I expected. Probably because my previous rig was 11 years old, and what was in there didn't require as much cooling as what has become the norm since. I'm going to assume today's PCs are much, much louder (by default) than those from over a decade ago, so this is likely a bigger win than it feels like.
  • I am now addicted to HWINFO, first thing I load after booting, will likely add it to startup programs eventually.
Click to expand...
if your part list in your op is what you ended up with that all sounds good and normal. the boot time thing; did you add any other drives after you got windows setup? for some reason i get a longer boot if i have any other drives connect beside the os drive. you could also look in task managers startup section and see what else you can disable .
 
pendragon1 said:
the boot time thing; did you add any other drives after you got windows setup? for some reason i get a longer boot if i have any other drives connect beside the os drive.
Click to expand...
I'm embarrassed that I didn't think about it. Unplugging the backup devices brought it right back to its initial 9-second boot-up time. I could probably force the BIOS to ignore the USB slots on boot-up, but I like that it checks -- I'd rather unplug the devices 'til I need them.
 
JYeager11 said:
I'm embarrassed that I didn't think about it. Unplugging the backup devices brought it right back to its initial 9-second boot-up time. I could probably force the BIOS to ignore the USB slots on boot-up, but I like that it checks -- I'd rather unplug the devices 'til I need them.
Click to expand...
nice. i live with mine as they are my games and storage drives. leaving my ext connected makes it even worse so i leave it unplugged until needed. its been doing this on mine since a couple years into w10's release, never figured it out. 15sec to boot still aint that bad considering...
 
JYeager11 said:
In this scenario, the 4TB WD My Passport
Click to expand...

I love mine. USB 3 and it rocks 90MB/s avg time.

I use this cable https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Compatible-External-Charging-Aluminum/dp/B074V3GD2S/

I use this hard case (holds drive and USB 3 cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59EQ3C/?coliid=I3J1BCPHB4BXK5

1ab.png
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Soooo... that scary blue screen I'd never seen before this build is back (dumps something and forces restart + loss of whatever you were working on). Once again, audio+video were both playing, but to be fair, I'm almost always watching something and I'd gone 2 weeks without this happening. Also, nothing appeared to be spiking heat-wise (my eyes have been on those sensors as a reflex, every time I do anything but surf the web). I'm wondering if it's a RAM issue. The GTX 750 ti gpu should be able to keep up with what I'm doing just fine.

According to this link, the Crucial Ballistix run at 1.35v - while my BIOS (E7C84AMS.160) seems to indicate my RAM is running at 1.372v

Could this difference explain these occasional unexplained crashes, or do both those numbers line up as normal? Do I need to go manually set that 1.372v to a solid 1.35v? Is that even a thing I can do? Completely unknown territory here, so please baby-talk whatever steps you recommend I take. ;)

I also noticed my Win 10 wasn't fully updated with latest H1N1 (or wtv it's called) patches, so I ran those + optional display drivers for my monitors that it has been recommending since installation a month ago. I doubt these will have an effect, but can't hurt.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
hard to say. disable auto-restart so you can catch the bsod message. the ram voltage is fine, not uncommon to need a bit more anyways, mine at 1.4v. do you go long times without rebooting, like the bsod is the reboot?
 
pendragon1 said:
do you go long times without rebooting, like the bsod is the reboot?
Click to expand...
At least once or twice a week, which is way more than my previous build (which could be weeks/months at a time without a reboot). As for turning off auto-restart... I see it do something before it reboots, there's a progression from 0 to 100% that takes about 3 seconds to complete before screen actually shuts off and reboot happens. Surely there's a record of whatever it just did during that 0-100% wait before rebooting, somewhere? One that might contain the info we want?
 
JYeager11 said:
At least once or twice a week, which is way more than my previous build (which could be weeks/months at a time without a reboot). As for turning off auto-restart... I see it do something before it reboots, there's a progression from 0 to 100% that takes about 3 seconds to complete before screen actually shuts off and reboot happens. Surely there's a record of whatever it just did during that 0-100% wait before rebooting, somewhere? One that might contain the info we want?
Click to expand...
mabye, look in event viewer.
 
JYeager11 said:
At least once or twice a week, which is way more than my previous build (which could be weeks/months at a time without a reboot). As for turning off auto-restart... I see it do something before it reboots, there's a progression from 0 to 100% that takes about 3 seconds to complete before screen actually shuts off and reboot happens. Surely there's a record of whatever it just did during that 0-100% wait before rebooting, somewhere? One that might contain the info we want?
Click to expand...

Kind of a long shot, but do you have Corsair iCue installed, or any other software that might try to gain control of fans, RGB lights, etc?

Your issue sounds very similar to one I experienced last year. I eventually traced it back to iCue via Event Viewer, and as soon as I uninstalled it the problems went away.
 
JYeager11 said:
Just did, and it was all gibberish to me. It's not something I have much experience with. Where exactly should I be looking, and what am I looking for?
Click to expand...
easiest thing to do then is disable auto restart and grab the bsod error
 
pendragon1 said:
easiest thing to do then is disable auto restart and grab the bsod error
Click to expand...
So it happened again, before I had a chance to do this (not that I even know how to) while I was just browsing FB with no other major apps open... but I got to take a better look at it this time. There's a QR code that appears (presumably to scan and learn more info about this error) but I was not quick enough to photograph it... more importantly, the very last thing on the screen was : KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_ERROR. I Googled it quick, and the first video I found on it claims "This error usually stems from your display adapter."

But the first time this happened, right after completing the build, I was using Windows-provided Nvidia drivers... so I updated to latest Nvidia-provided 'game-ready' drivers (there are no 'studio drivers' for the GTX 750 ti available), and the problem seemingly went away for a couple of weeks. But without me touching the gpu drivers, it's happened twice in the past week alone.

At least, this appears to be a hint that the part at fault is the only legacy component of this build, so I imagine this issue goes away when I replace it with a 3060/3070 at some point. But until then, this is going to be a problem. I guess it wouldn't hurt to update the drivers AGAIN, since Nvidia appear to be releasing them weekly for some ungodly reason.
 
JYeager11 said:
So it happened again, before I had a chance to do this (not that I even know how to) while I was just browsing FB with no other major apps open... but I got to take a better look at it this time. There's a QR code that appears (presumably to scan and learn more info about this error) but I was not quick enough to photograph it... but more importantly, the very last thing on the screen was : KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_ERROR. I Googled it quick, and the first video I found on it claims "This error usually stems from your display adapter."

But the first time this happened, I was using Windows-provided Nvidia drivers... so I updated to latest Nvidia-provided 'game-ready' drivers (there are no 'studio drivers' for the GTX 750 ti available), and the problem seemingly went away for a couple of weeks. But without me touching the gpu drivers, it's happened twice in the past week alone.

At least, this appears to be a hint that the part at fault is the only legacy component of this build, so I imagine this issue goes away when I replace it with a 3060/3070 at some point. But until then, this is going to be a problem. I guess it wouldn't hurt to update the drivers AGAIN, since Nvidia appear to be releasing them weekly for some ungodly reason.
Click to expand...
try turning off browser hardware acceleration. if it hasnt been suggested...
 
Sorry i haven't gotten back to you on the gpu issue. I dont always get notifications for some reason. When you update your gpu drivers make sure you run ddu ( dont know if thats been suggested) first to get rid of the old drivers before installing the new ones. Hopefully that will take care of anymore issues with your card.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top