Finished (with Pics) my 3D Printed + Wood Case

I

irr1449

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Sep 17, 2015
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I just finished my second prototype of this case about 3 weeks ago. I just recently got all the build pictures together to do a post.

I'm already onto the 3rd prototype that fixes a lot of issues with this case. My goal is to make a truly usable wooden case that can be made fairly easy.

Right now it looks like I'll be doing a 4th prototype due to some issues with #3. Once the case is finished I'm going to open source all the files and create a comprehensive set of instructions.

Here is prototype #2. http://make4.io/p/wooden-pc-prototype-2-build/
 
Very cool. I've always been a fan of using wood in case building. The clean line look is strong with this one, which has me looking forward to proto 3 even more now. Curious, how much weight do you think the 3d-printed ssd bracket can handle?
 
W31 D0n9 said:
Very cool. I've always been a fan of using wood in case building. The clean line look is strong with this one, which has me looking forward to proto 3 even more now. Curious, how much weight do you think the 3d-printed ssd bracket can handle?
Click to expand...

It's PETG, it would be hard to break unless you tried on purpose. It's not brittle like PLA.
 
I would make better corner joints on the 1 by's when assembling, you'd end up with a cleaner look, IMO.

But I'm totally digging the design overall so far! :)

Edit: I see wood glue in the corners, but no holes for attachment. Dowel pins? Or other?
 
Last edited:
Guarana [BAWLS] said:
I would make better corner joints on the 1 by's when assembling, you'd end up with a cleaner look, IMO.

But I'm totally digging the design overall so far! :)

Edit: I see wood glue in the corners, but no holes for attachment. Dowel pins? Or other?
Click to expand...

I use Titebond II Premium and I clamp it really well. This glue is rated at 3,750 psi and 72% wood failure rate (meaning it's more likely that the wood would break vs. the glue joint). I've put a 50lb weight in the case and just held onto the top board. I don't foresee any issues with strength.

Here is a good read on wood glue strength https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html
 
I'm less worried about the strength, I'm looking at the corner joints themselves.

you could make it look nicer with a different joint, IMO.
 
That is very cool... I am not a fan of the windows usually. I have been thinking about doing a CNC/3D printed case.
 
depends on what you like.
Once finished, these look really neat, since the grain shift stands out a lot:
14.JPG


Alternatively this would give you a completely clean front, while still adding support: (Pins are completely optional)
4ef18aa58246bc9c5e8046f5b3de1244.jpg


A Mitered Rabbit Joint adds stability, and puts the actual wood seam on the exact corner:
mitered-rabbet_finished-joint.jpg
 
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