Finally! Help me with my first w/c setup!

10 feet is definitely enough. I've redone my loop several times now, sometimes having to cut new lengths (reusing most though). I started out with 10 feet, I probably still have at least 3 feet.

If it says included in the description, then it should have it.
 
10ft is more than enough for a simple loop in the 810. If you're looking to save a little money, I would check out something like the XSPC RX360, with the fans and setup you're running it will perform on par with the UT60 and is $20 cheaper or so, gives you some more wiggle room. The Alphacool rads are very well made, but you pay extra for stuff like copper screws and caps.

I would also highly suggest trying to get a better top for the D5, if you're going to expand the loop later it might be worth it to have the extra performance.

Be careful with PPC's and the "included" barbs, I never count them in my build because on at least 4 occasions I got a different size than the one I selected. I always just buy a set of barbs separately for everything I need.
 
Thanks guys, good advice here.

That's a bummer about the barbs... I hope they don't screw that up because I'm counting on it! If I have some extra in the budget I'll order a couple more. It'd be nice to have one or two for filling/draining in the res also.

Thanks for the suggestion on the XSPC rad. Originally I wanted to do the XSPC RX360 D5 Raystorm kit for same reasons you mentioned (cheaper), but I really wanted a cylinder res eventually, which would have costed more in the long run. I wouldn't be opposed to that particular rad instead of the Alphacool, but I couldn't find it available from Performance PC's. Also, I'm a sucker for options, so I don't mind the extra plugs and configuration possibilities this other rad offers.

I agree about the pump top. I really want an acrylic one at some point, but that'll have to be an upgrade somewhere down the road.
 
The Alphacool rads are very very nice, great quailty. Extremely heavy too. I'm about to order a couple of the UT60 480's for my build myself. I was just throwing out some options since you said you have a very strict budget. Either way, that CPU is going to be nice and cool. You can easily just add a GPU block in the future as well, you have more than enough rad for CPU+GPU in that build.
 
Just as I said, the coupon codes are out for PPC.

Spend $50-250, get 6% off: "TGIVING13-6"
Spend $250-500, get 7% off: "TGIVING13-7"
Spend over $500, get 8% off: "TGIVING13-8"
 
ARRGH, my radiator is out of stock. Anyone know how quickly PPC's refills their stock?

If it's not in time, are there any other suggestions? I might just go with the XT45 instead of the UT60.
 
I just ordered two of the white UT60 special editions from PPC's. Also, YGPM.
 
Ok, so I have a few changes. What do you think?

1. UT60 is OOS, so I'm switching to a XT45. I don't know how much space I have between my mosfet heatsinks and the roof of my case anyway, so this will ensure I can fit rad+fans up there. LMK if this is not a good rad choice, or if there are better options.
2. Changing tubing to 1/2"ID x 5/8"OD for better flexibility.
3. Adding kill coil
4. With this discount, I'll have a few extra bucks. What do you think? Upgrade plastic hose clamps to metal ones? Add an extra barb or two? Other ideas?
 
If you're looking for better flexibility, go down to 3/8" ID 5/8" OD. Thinner walls makes things less flexible because they kink easier. 1/2" ID 3/4" OD would actually be more flexible than 1/2" ID 5/8" OD.

I prefer metal worm gear clamps because they're easier to put on and take off than the plastic ones.

The XT45 should be fine, and would save you some money. If you're not afraid to drill some holes in your case, go get the UT60 420mm.
 
jamsomito said:
Ok, I've got everything in my cart. One last question before I click buy:

What do you think of the metal hose clamps like these?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata..._info&cPath=59_953_954_1230&products_id=25625

Any concerns? Does the brand need to match the brand of the barb?
Click to expand...

Those will be fine but I prefer the worm clamp style that use a screw to tighten instead. The worm clamps are also much cheaper than those koolance ones. I bought mine from lowes instead.
 
Awesome, thanks. I'm all for worm gear clamps from a functionality standpoint, but I really don't like how they look. If these are ok, this is my way of adding "bling" to my big purchase :)
 
Ordered. Thanks all, for all the help!

I'll post pics when stuff gets here and assembled :D
 
OK so I just got an email from ppcs saying they can't ship my order because my shipping address is different from my billing address and the shipping address is not listed with my credit card. OK no big deal, I call up my credit card company and try to add the shipping address. Turns out they can only have one address listed per account, but they said I could change the address briefly so it checks out with my shipping address, have ppcs check it, then switch the credit card address back to my home address. Well, the problem with that then is that my billing address won't match when they check it. Catch 22?

I've had things stolen off my porch at home before, so definitely not shipping $300 worth of stuff to my home address.

Has anyone had this issue with ppcs before? Im waiting for ppcs customer service to call me back.
 
Update...

They are able to do a 2 step verification process, so they verified my billing address, then I changed my card address to my shipping address, and now they're calling my credit card company to verify the shipping address. Oye...

Now I have a new concern though... I see the XT45 is OOS, just browsing the site. :rolleyes: I hope my order last night reserved one.

EDIT: addresses all confirmed, order changed to "processing". We'll see.

EDIT 2: WOOT, shipped! What a day... I need a weekend.
 
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Never been so excited about a $0.87 jug of water...

pvtn.jpg
 
OK, stuff should be here tomorrow. Before I hook it all up I heard I'll have to clean it all. Hot distilled water several times, shake it up, dump, refill, etc till it drains clear. That it? Anything else I should know before building and running the system?
 
You don't necessarily have to run distilled water to clean it, regular tap water would do.
 
Got my shipment! Can't open it till I get home, but as I'm thinking about it I have a couple more questions:

1. Can someone point me to a guide that shows you how to "jump" your PSU to cycle the pump quickly for priming? I'll have to use the paperclip method because I didn't have budget for a pre-made one, or an external power supply.

2. I have an acrylic res with metal base/top. Is there any concern over stripping the threads on it? Just how careful do I need to be with it?
 
You don't need a guide to jump the PSU, just take the paperclip and short it between the only green wire on the 20/24 pin plug to any black wire on the same plug. Thats it.

Also, a quick google search regarding anything along the lines of "jumping PSU" gives you a slew of results...
 
no idea about 2, but 1 is easy. One side of the paperclip goes into the green wire on the ATX connector. There is only 1. The other side goes into a black wire, there are many of these. Then flip the switch to turn the PSU on/off. Just make sure you're doing it with the thing unplugged and drained in case you screw up ;)

And if your connector has all black cabling its *slightly* harder
 
Yeah, it's all black cabling unfortunately so I'll have to count pin numbers. Hopefully I don't short something else :eek:. I'll do a search myself, no worries. Just didn't know if "jumping" was the correct term or not.
 
Everything's in order! PPCs was great to work with except or the whole address verification thing... but I get that.

1xjz.jpg


Looks like this is going to have to wait until Saturday to get put together because of Thanksgiving festivities, then Sunday night or next Tuesday night to fill depending on when we get back. If it all works out, I'm planning an epic time-lapse video of it all :)
 
Trying to think out my loop order here...

oah6.jpg


I'm thinking this is going to be a mess with just straight barbs...
 
Doesn't look that bad to me. Your drawing seems to have the pump inlet facing out (perpendicular to the plane of the drawing) which makes it seem like a tight turn to the inlet, but if you rotated your pump 180deg it wouldn't be an issue and the outlet would still be fine. Just give yourself a good amount of slack and measure several times before cutting any tube to make sure you minimize waste.
 
Sounds good. With 10 feet of tubing I should have enough if I screw up, but I'll still start with the larger sections first and work down, in case something is too short then I can still use it as a shorter run elsewhere. Good idea on rotating the pump. I'll play around with that idea.

Here's an example of something close to what I was shooting for. Their tubing looks smaller though.

Oh yeah, this 1/2"ID 3/4"OD tubing is huge! I was envisioning something smaller. Oh well, live and learn.

Does anyone know this case well enough to know if I'm going to have to drill holes to mount my res and pump that way? I didn't check my equipment to see if it came with adhesives or not. Or are adhesives not recommended for this sort of thing anyway?
 
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Got it all built up today. Here's some phone pics below. Leak testing tomorrow, and I'll take some better pics of the final product.

Cleaning stuff out:
b6oh.jpg


Obligatory fittings shot:
2kgh.jpg


Rad/Pump/Res/Tubing:
bzxx.jpg


Ready to go:
cwsz.jpg


Time to go, trusty CM212+:
6vta.jpg


Ready for w/c parts:
rpek.jpg


Mounted radiator and fans:
ilxj.jpg


Close up of rad:
eov2.jpg


All installed:
zs1k.jpg


I ended up having to drill 2 holes. One for the res, and one for the pump (the pump needed two, but I was able to utilize an existing hole for one of them). This was an absolute blast. I'm totally hooked. Can't wait to get some new fans, a GPU block, and a second radiator for the floor!

I'm pretty happy with how the tubing turned out actually. It's better than I was envisioning.

How'd I do?
 
Very nice. You're going to have to move the pump if you are planning to put a radiator on the floor though. Get a custom pump top and one of these, and attach the pump directly to the reservoir.
 
Thanks, Tsumi, and thanks for all your help too. I thought about mounting the res and pump higher up so I wouldn't have to move them later, but considering how long I saved up for this portion, I figured it would be a couple years before I got the rest of it and in the meantime things looked a bit strange all cluttered needlessly up at the top of the case. Not sure the order yet, but here's what's left on my list:

GPU block (universal for current card, or full cover for a new card, if I need more power)
2x120 or 2x140 rad for bottom of case (45mm or 60 mm)
Pump top (acrylic)
Pump impeller - can you buy these for the D5?
Better fans all around (10x)
Additional temp sensor and flow sensor to make a visual heat transfer tracking program (Java / android project - just for fun)
Angled fittings / Compression fittings?

Just a random thought... I was surprised how easy the Tygon tubing was to work with. No problems with bends or fitting onto barbs at all. The biggest hassle were the tube clamps by far.
 
Nope, you do not buy a pump impeller. The only thing you replace is the pump top.
 
Is my silver kill coil supposed to look like this? This has been running for 6 hours or so.

92v1.jpg


The color in the picture is a bit exaggerated, but it's definitely not shiny silver any more, and definitely discolored.
 
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Setup looks really clean.

About the coil: is it that yellow thing? whaaaaa? mine is still very much silver after 6+ weeks
 
Yep, my silver coil turned yellow. Nobody on OCN seems to know what's causing it either. I'm going to drain my loop tonight, disassemble and clean this coming Saturday.

If anybody has any ideas in the meantime, I'm all ears.
 
I really don't know... Silver oxides I'm familiar with are black. Colloidal silver can be yellow in solution, but I've never heard of like... crayon yellow formations on the surface of the metal itself. Can you/have you removed the coil and disturbed the yellow layer?

Silver Iodide is yellow, but where would Iodine come from in your loop... also not sure if its that strong of a yellow color.

This is bringing me back to my freshman chemistry courses :D
 
No joke. I did some research too and I can't find out what it is either. Another thing I found is that a lot of lead precipitates are bright yellow in color. The only thing I can think of is maybe there's a chunk of solder inside my radiator or something that's causing it. No clue.

I haven't taken it out yet. All I had time for was to shut the system down and move it off my counter. Hopefully things don't get worse in stagnant water. The next chance I have to work on it will be this Saturday.
 
I have minor yellowing on my silver killcoil, but that's it. It's still largely silver.
 
Alright, got everything disassembled. Do these help any?

Coil in res this morning. Pump was off for 5.5 days.
w9gk.jpg


Coil removed. Looks a bit better. Looks like rust on the surface... makes me concerned for my copper parts.
25ru.jpg


Fittings are fine.
0mm1.jpg


Still fine on the other side too.
spge.jpg


Rad looks ok to me... thoughts?
5r8h.jpg


I *think* this is just solder...
vim2.jpg


CPU block looks okay.
4zvk.jpg


But in certain light it looks tarnished... I can't tell. I might just be water in the grooves?
tlnj.jpg


Ok guys, thoughts? I'm going to clean everything out thoroughly with a vinegar/water mixture (looking up the ratio currently), and will rinse a few times with distilled before assembling again.
 
Tarnishing is going to occur when copper is exposed to water, there's really no getting around that.

Have you tried rubbing the killcoil and seeing if anything comes off of it?
 
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