Finally got my Ender 3 dialed in with direct drive and dual Z

sed8em

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Apr 2, 2007
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Got my Ender 3 perfected, I think.

This is the direct drive printed kit I settled on, after trying 2 other ones that I didn't care for.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4002782

I used the new SKR Mini E3 v2.0 which has two separate Z stepper motor ports. I tried a belt driven dual Z from Aliexpress which ended up being garbage, and finally settled on a dual Z motor kit from Amazon for around $40.

Printed this Benchy with a 0.6mm nozzle using Inland PETG at 230c/80c, 60mm/s, retractions 1.5mm at 30mm/s. Damn near perfect result for the first run on the new setup.

Now on to making functional parts that won't warp in the heat!

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Ready4Dis

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Nov 4, 2015
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That's a pretty large nozzle from the limited research I've done? I assume you print a bit faster than I can with my .35mm nozzle. My 3d printer came direct drive so I didn't have to swap, I actual contemplated switching over to a none direct drive setup with a bowden tube due to less moving mass. What made you want to go the direct drive route? I know it can take some time to dial things in, I'm content with mine even if it's not 100% lol.
 

sed8em

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Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
2,413
That's a pretty large nozzle from the limited research I've done? I assume you print a bit faster than I can with my .35mm nozzle. My 3d printer came direct drive so I didn't have to swap, I actual contemplated switching over to a none direct drive setup with a bowden tube due to less moving mass. What made you want to go the direct drive route? I know it can take some time to dial things in, I'm content with mine even if it's not 100% lol.

Yeah, 0.6mm definitely helps with print times. I'm using my printer to make functional parts, I don't print highly detailed things like DnD minis that you see so much of on the 3d printing sites. Right now I'm making parts to mount my monitor on the pegboard on my desk and mount my m715q tiny SFF desktop under the desk to free up desk space. I also print parts for my telescopes, model rockets, etc. So speed and durability are my main concern and 0.6mm accomplishes that.

I wanted to try direct drive for PETG because its so darn stringy and requires a nearly perfect calibration. So far I'm pretty happy with the direct drive setup, short fast retractions with no bowden, from my initial prints with the new setup I think I have it under control. With the added mass, I had to add a second Z screw since the Ender 3 only comes with one.
 

Ready4Dis

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Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
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Yeah, 0.6mm definitely helps with print times. I'm using my printer to make functional parts, I don't print highly detailed things like DnD minis that you see so much of on the 3d printing sites. Right now I'm making parts to mount my monitor on the pegboard on my desk and mount my m715q tiny SFF desktop under the desk to free up desk space. I also print parts for my telescopes, model rockets, etc. So speed and durability are my main concern and 0.6mm accomplishes that.

I wanted to try direct drive for PETG because its so darn stringy and requires a nearly perfect calibration. So far I'm pretty happy with the direct drive setup, short fast retractions with no bowden, from my initial prints with the new setup I think I have it under control. With the added mass, I had to add a second Z screw since the Ender 3 only comes with one.
Sounds good! Yeah, same here, I mostly make parts for their usefulness. Brackets, stands, cases, an impeller form my washer drain pump, lol. I do make a few little trinkets for the kids once in a while though, but that's much more rare. I do a good amount of stuff that requires some dimension accuracy, but it seems it always need to slightly adjust anyways. My last project was off by 0.4mm so I had to reprint after offsetting. ;). I'm sure that would come in handy for all those other times I just want it to print fast and don't care as much. Heck, I could probably still use it for accuracy, just slightly different compensation values.
 

sed8em

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Apr 2, 2007
Messages
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Second Ender 3 Pro is finished.
Rear electronics mount holds the SKR mini E3 v2.0 and RPi 3b+. It’s cooled with dual 4020 12v fans and has magnetic top covers for easy access.
I did a Hydra hot end with a magnetically attached 4020 24v fan for easy hot end access. Only one 5015 parts cooling fan (which is sufficient) and I mounted a BLTouch on the left in lieu of a 2nd 5015 fan.
Dual Z rods with dual motors.
Perfectly dialed in.
The machine is very quiet, fast, and accurate.
 

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