Extreme Cooling Sticky - Post Your Systems Here

zer0signal667

2[H]4U
Joined
Jan 11, 2002
Messages
3,847
Just like the title says, lets see pictures of your extreme systems.
Let's try to keep questions, comments, and complaints within the other threads, just pics and specs here. :D
 
Heres my TEC rig:
1800+ at 2.55ghz 11*232 with maze4 (226 watt TEC at 13.75V comming soon)
9500pro at 400/300 with maze4-1 80 watt TEC. (172 watt comming soon)
2*256 XMS with CH5 ICs
DFI Infinity
link to password protected image

And heres my 9800np/nf7-s/1800+ rig that sucked. Board wouldent go over 215 FSB with a divider of 205 1:1 and it maxed at 2.3ghz no matter what :| Chip and ram are in TEC rig, mobo died from NB condensation I think and video card ram killed by static electricity. Have an A64 3000+, Mushkin BH5 sticks, VNF3-250, and 9600XT now waiting for some VR's to Vmod board than chiller goes back on. I'm waiting for some good deals for parts to finish my custom chiller with a goal of -40C liquid
PC120099.JPG
 
pretty stupid idea, since tons of dust goes in, but here it is anyway:
IMGP1227.jpg
 
I suppose this counts...doesn't it? Dual VapoChills with a water cooled GPU. It runs daily at 4.44GHz for almost 2 years now.

double_vapo.jpg
 
Work in progress, building a cascade phase changer cooler shortly, with a interstage heat exchanger loop on 1st compressor side for an inertx loop to cool gfx gpu and ram down to -40c.....anyway heres my current setup:

3.jpg
 
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The red flow wheel below measures coolant flow and sends an RPM signal to the CPU fan header. It uses the LED's to measure RPM. If the coolant pump stops the system will shut down automatically. =)

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Don't get me wrong the Thermalright NB-1C is the mother of all NB air coolers, but here you can see the NB-1C blocks three PCI slots on the Epox 8KDA3J . A card like the Audigy 2Z on the bottom cannot fit. I felt this was necessary because the NF3 chipset gets very hot and the 8KDA3J NB heatsink is basically poor in material and size. The NB-1C fan is a little loud, but it is thermostatically controlled here. Now it's cool to the touch.

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The original air filter on the Lian Li's don't do a great job in filtering real dust so a different setup was made using two filters, one fine foam filter and one wire mesh filter. Now the inner filter side stays clean as it should.

0039


UV cathode w/reactive molex connectors, coolant hoses and paint.

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white/blue cathode. The inverters for the cathodes were insulated with aluminum foil because the inverters themselves emit a significant amount of EMI noise. With the cathodes on, my Digidoc temp readings shifted 10deg F! No telling what that can do to other data sensative parts like your HD.

0044


Even with the camera flash, you can see the hoses glow blue with the UV cathode on.

0075


The coolant used is a clear, non-conductive and non-corrosive liquid. In the event of a leak no electronic parts will get damaged due to shorting. The CPU temps rarely see more than 37C at full load. In fact my upper case temp is sometimes hotter than my CPU!!! The boxed air cooler would yield temps up to 45C.

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No dye needed, the hoses glow w/UV light. Adding dye will increase the siemens (conductivity)of the coolant.

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The DigiDoc 5 monitors four tempratures; two stripped WD80G hard drives, a WD200G in the mobile rack, in addition to the lower and upper ambient temp inside the case. Normal HD temps seem to be no more than 90deg F at the spindle. The temp reading on the Koolance watercooling unit is taken directly from the CPU waterblock.

LianLi PC-60
Koolance EXOS Watercooler
Fluid XP
DigiDoc 5
Thermalright NB-1C
AMD64 3000+ [email protected]
Epox 8KDA3J
1G OCZ PC-3500 @T1
GF6800 OC@368/785
Audigy 2Z
Highpoint 37X Raid
(2) 80G Western Digital HD w/0 Raid Array
(1) 200G WD HD
Pioneer 16X DVD WR
Lite-On Combo
Enermax 470W
all fans thermo controlled
Comanche(1024X768) 70.2fps
3DMark03 9301
3DMark01 20343
 
Is it normal for the compressor to get hot to the touch? I can touch mine for about 4-5 seconds, and then it gets to hot.... If it matters, the compressor is a 1/3 HP
 
newls1 said:
Is it normal for the compressor to get hot to the touch? I can touch mine for about 4-5 seconds, and then it gets to hot.... If it matters, the compressor is a 1/3 HP

I thought this is to post system? Anyway, yes it does run hot. low side 50-65 c is common as well as high side 55-70 is normal for the compressor you have.
 
System Configuration: FOR SALE (excluding * items)
Lian Li PC75B Case, Aluminum Wheel Set
(2) Rear Fan, Panaflo 80MM, 40CFM – Intake
Rear Fan, Panaflo 120MM, 115CFM – Intake
Floor Fan, Panaflo 120MM, 115CFM – Intake
(2) Front Fan, Panaflo 80MM, 40CFM – Intake
AMD Athlon 64 3200 Venice, LBBLE 0516 GPDW, 295 x 10Mhz *
DFI nF4 Ultra-D Motherboard *
(2) Crucial Ballistix PC3200 256MB, 2-2-2-6, 1T, 2.7V *
(2) Hitachi SATA II 80G (RAID 0) *
Hitachi SATA II 80G (Backup) *
Abit RX300SE Video Card *
Lite-On 1673 DVDRW *
LS 120 Floppy Disk Drive *
Antec Neopower 480W Power Supply *
Dominator Pro TEC CPU Block - Qmax = 437.3 W, dTmax = 74.7C, Th = 50C
Mean Well S-600-24 Power Supply – 5 1/4-in. Bay-Mount
Lian Li Expansion Drive Bay Grill – Mean Well Exhaust Vent
Swiftech Pump Relay, Version II – Mean Well AC Power Control
(2) Airplex Evo 240 Fan Grill
(2) Black Ice Extreme II Radiator – Internally Top-Mounted
(4) Sanyo Denki 120MM, 102 CFM Fan – Exhaust
Mean Well SD-50A-12 DC-DC Converter
(2) AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12 Pump @ 14.0V
Dual 3 ½-in. Bay Reservoir
Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing 7/16-in. ID, 3/16-in Wall
Crystalfontz Model 634 4-Line LCD *
Digital LED Volt & Amp Meter w/Shunt on TEC Power Supply Output
Coolant Temperature Metal Probe/LCD – (+/- 1C Accuracy)
+ Cold Plate Temperature Metal Probe/LCD – (+/- 1C Accuracy)
+ Probe embedded in cold plate. Probe tip located over CPU center area.

Conditions:
- All case panels installed.
- All (10) fans running at 12V.
- TEC PS Output = 19.9V @ 24.6A
- CPU Core Voltage (V) = 1.54 – as reported by CPU-Z via BIOS
- CPU Core Power (W) = 120 - estimated
- Pump Heat Dump (W) = 23 - estimated
- Room Temp (C) = 20.3
- Load Time = 60 Min.
- CPU loaded using Prime 95 with large FFT setting, maximum heat.
- All readings taken at end of noted time period.

Results:
- Coolant Temp (C) = 30.4
- Cold Plate Temp (C) = -14.6
- CPU Temp (C) = 5 - as reported by Motherboard Monitor via BIOS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Proto.2.Froste.JPG

Proto.2.Side.JPG

Proto.2.SideNaked.JPG

X2 3800 @ 3.1ghz, 7800GTX, Ballistix 2gb, Raptor, WD 160GB, All inside case :)
BTW, I make these and sell them. Feel free to inquire me.
 
Wow, this thread sure did die off in a hurry.

Are there not that many other people running phase systems around here anymore or what?

I'm looking at having a single stage unit custom built for an upcoming project and I was hoping I'd be able to grab some new pics for inspiration...but I guess I'll have to mosey on back to XS. :(

It's all good though...bench on my brothers. :cool:
 
Here is my rig... Peltier Cooled...
(put it in the wrong place earlier i think)

ABIT AV8 3rd Eye mobo
ATI X850XT-PE
Coolmax 550CX 550watt PSU
AMD Opteron 144 CAB2E/0546
2 x 512 OCZ ram
300gig SATA-II hdd
Wintsch Labs 437watt peltier cpu block
Dual rads... Bonneville style heater core with dual 140mm fans and a BIX 120.2
Swiftech MCP650 pump

for more pics, better details... the original post is here-
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1050929

a few other things obviously in the system, but those are the main things...

e723fc87.jpg


03aac826.jpg


ac167809.jpg


1a789097.jpg



~NortH~
 
cornelious0_0 said:
Very nice setup man...wiring could use some work, but a very nice setup none-the-less. :cool:

thanks... and yup... wiring definitely needs work... but that is just one of the many things I haven't got around to yet... I wanted to make sure everything was running and working perfectly before doing anything about the looks of it.

:)

~NortH~
 
NortHWizarD said:
thanks... and yup... wiring definitely needs work... but that is just one of the many things I haven't got around to yet... I wanted to make sure everything was running and working perfectly before doing anything about the looks of it.

:)

~NortH~

Which is what I'd do to...good call man, and once again...nice work.
 
I am thinking about doing something else to it now... someone on another forum brought it up and reminded me again about it... and got me thinking some more.

I have another, identical, pump to the one that is in there... I could install the second pump and then ditch the 'Y' connectors and run the outlet of each pump to each of the 2 inlets on the waterblock, and then take each of the outlets and run each outlet to it's own rad... even if one rad cools better than the other, the temps will be the same before it hits the pump since each rad would empty into one single reservoir, where it would mix before going back out to the pumps... and this would also give me a small fail-safe and some redundancy... if one pump failed... water would still go through the whole block and be cooled by at least one rad... it may get pretty warm, but it would still be well within safe margins..

I doubt that a second pump would help much with my current temps, but by adding it, it may clean up the tubing clutter a little and it also adds that fail-safe ... because right now, if the pump fails, I have to hope the overheat shutdown in the bios works, and works fast... or I will have melted crap all over the place at the very least.

~NortH~
 
NortHWizarD said:
because right now, if the pump fails, I have to hope the overheat shutdown in the bios works, and works fast... or I will have melted crap all over the place at the very least.

~NortH~

That's pretty much where I was too...and it's not like you typically test out the overheat shutdown works when you setup your system. The best of luck to you man.
 
This is a commercial immersion cooler that I converted to direct die. It took my 950es Presler to a 5.8ghz SS shot and 5.5ghz super pi 1m. The capacity is actually very good, I've yet to see a single stage that will hold temps on a high clocked 9** series cpu. I've got this unit for sale now and am building a new single stage with 3/4 hp rotary, not sure if it is just going to be a high capacity unit or maybe a dual evap ;)

system12ag.jpg
 
Very nice man...what kind of heat load (in terms of Wattage) is the SS dealing with strapped to that chip? What kind of idle/load evap temps are you able to hit with that SS of yours?

That Rotary unit should be really nice though...can't wait to see it. :cool:
 
cornelious0_0 said:
Wow, this thread sure did die off in a hurry.

Are there not that many other people running phase systems around here anymore or what?

I'm looking at having a single stage unit custom built for an upcoming project and I was hoping I'd be able to grab some new pics for inspiration...but I guess I'll have to mosey on back to XS. :(

It's all good though...bench on my brothers. :cool:

this summer i should be getting the lian li PC-65, and
this should be pretty cool to have running.
 
I'd still go with a Vapochill LS as it comes with a body kit by default that matches the PC-65 perfectly...and it's possible to have the Vapo modded so that there's no second guessing which product is better. Overall I think the mounting is also more refined with the LS...but that's personal opinion I suppose.
 
see the thing is i am getting it from a friend that has a PC 65 silver and this with teh lian li kit on it, and he is giving me both for 150$

so i cant really complain :D :D
 
yes it is man, i cant wait for it but i need to get a new cpu to overclock as well this 3500+ just isnt cuttin it. i need to get me a 165 or 170 sometime, but only 15 so money dont come to easy when you have no job ;)
 
Yeah man, I remember those days...but then I remember the days when I was living at home and could drop $700 on a new video card every 3-6 months...I miss those days. :(
 
Do your hardware sensors work? So can you use SpeedFan?
I wonder how subzero WebTemp diagrams look like. :D

Normally they look like these:
stats.png


But I've never seen one with a minus sign.
 
Clocker said:
Do your hardware sensors work? So can you use SpeedFan?
Most motherboard sensors don't go below 0 degrees and the ones that do don't report accurate temps. Unless someone find a way to hook a normal temperature sensor to their computer and get it to register as a mobo sensor I don't think you can get SpeedFan to accurately report temps. Most extreme OC'ers have their own temp sensors which are placed on the cpu/gpu/nb blocks.
 
Or they'll be using a thermo-couple running from close to the evap head to a UEI temp sensor or somthing similar, more accurate/adjustable if done properly IMO. Accurate evap temps anyways...most mobo's will report sub zero temps, not necessarily overly accurate, but it still gives you some kind of idea.

Sorry about the offtopic-ness though, I'll be quiet now. :p
 
No extreme equipment here, just extreme air cooled temps. :D
XP-90
2x Vantec 60mm iCEBERQ HDD Coolers
2x 80mm exhaust, passive intake
Overclocked 3700+ to 2.6GHz
Undervolted to 1.35 VCore
TempsCrop.jpg

Picture018-2.jpg
 
sladesurfer said:
Here's mine :D

wow that has to be one the cleanest setups ever. low profile video card and nothing really connected to it but 2 sata connections .. guessing dvd and hd.. what do u use it for? i like how u have your hd backwards :)
 
Arcygenical said:
Holy HELL Cent.

Going for the 3Dmark record against K|ngp|n are we?
I'm not at his level yet :) Still practicing pouring LN2 to maintain stable cpu temp. load and idle. Cpu and mobo ran ok with temp. to -180C, but froze when its up to -95C.
Controlled LN2 pouring on 3 devices (1 cpu plus 2 video cards) need a lot of practice :D
 
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