Eizo Foris FG2421: 120hz VA Panel

My god, you are having a brutal run of luck. Perhaps you used it all up on some golden i7s or something? lol

Time to return it, get a refund, and get a beer. Make that six beers. Sorry man. :(

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the kindness. I really fell in love with this display's color depth so it sort of breaks my heart to have to give up on it, but I can't even find one keeper, much less 3.

The biggest problem is the random restarting. All of the panels I've had did it except the one with the smashed bezel and the smudge in the center of the screen which I didn't really test at all. Kinda seems like just a bad design but I imagine the restarts would be covered under Eizo's warranty, if they would actually take the trouble to verify such an intermittent issue. Then again having ALL my fg2421's randomly restart on me makes my system or power delivery look like a possible factor--but it's not a problem with other display types so... I was originally planning to RMA one of the displays to Eizo but I've just had it and all 4 are back or are going back to the retailers. Newegg's probably had it with this thing, too. They've paid shipping both ways on 3 of these. Provantage is paying for the return shipping on the one I have currently, which has the completely dead pixel pretty much dead center, and restarted itself about an hour ago. Normally I would be enjoying the opportunity to research a different model monitor to get instead, but since there are nothing but TN Lightboost monitors on the market I find this all very disappointing.

I consider myself lucky to have found a semi-gold i7 but I went through a bunch of them and lost an arm and a leg selling them off. Never returned/RMAd a single one of the 4770k's I went through because they all worked within spec. I don't really like returning things and since I started looking for a 120Hz monitor I've been doing a ton of it. Wish I didn't know what "refresh rate" means.

Waiting for Benq XL2420Z now. Bug with XL2720Z is not encouraging.
 
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Nah, he's right. They have never shipped a single one to my knowledge. It's strange they have left the listing up literally for months, but always the Marketplace sellers are the first choice and if it were me I would buy from either Rak
u
ten.com
or Provantage right now. They both claim to pay return shipping for defective monitors. I went Provantage and my new fg2421 just arrived, although I had to fight with Fedex over my Hold for pickup order. I think I'll give Raku10.com a shot on the next one. About to set the new one up and look for inevitable flaws :(

ANNDDDD fucking dead pixel. Had it with this display.

I'm cautious about rak u ten because of reports of identity theft (even people using paypal seem to somehow be experiencing identity theft at a surprisingly high degree), and if yours from Provantage has a dead pixel, I'm a little worried about getting the one you returned. [edit] I realized not long after I typed this that it would be extremely unlikely, as you *just* got yours [/edit]

I'll give Provantage a shot, and if I get a bad display, I'll return it and try one of the amazon sellers, and so on. I've been so very disappointed in LCD technology for so very long, and my FW900 blew its capacitor a few years ago. The displays I have are terrible, and I can't stand it any more - I'm either getting one of the (apparently few) good FG2421s, or I'm going out and looking for a good condition FW900 (which is probably getting pretty rare, too, now). I'm willing to sink some extra money into a search for a near-perfect FG2421.
 
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I'm cautious about rak u ten because of reports of identity theft (even people using paypal seem to somehow be experiencing identity theft at a surprisingly high degree), and if yours from Provantage has a dead pixel, I'm a little worried about getting the one you returned. [edit] I realized not long after I typed this that it would be extremely unlikely, as you *just* got yours [/edit]

I'll give Provantage a shot, and if I get a bad display, I'll return it and try one of the amazon sellers, and so on. I've been so very disappointed in LCD technology for so very long, and my FW900 blew its capacitor a few years ago. The displays I have are terrible, and I can't stand it any more - I'm either getting one of the (apparently few) good FG2421s, or I'm going out and looking for a good condition FW900 (which is probably getting pretty rare, too, now). I'm willing to sink some extra money into a search for a near-perfect FG2421.

Don't worry about ordering one from ProVantage, I still have the one with the dead pixel set up because it takes ProVantage a while to set up RMAs. They kind of seem like a small-ish company, but they've been around a long time, have good prices and pay return shipping for defective merchandise. The truth is most of these online retailers share a lot of their distributors. So you may be getting the monitor shipped to you from the same place in the same way no matter where you order it from.

I spoke with a rep from Eizo this morning who sort of Freudian Slipped and said "we're receiving a fair number of them back," he then back-peddled and changed that to "a handful". I wasn't trying to give him a hard time, though, I just wanted to know if the Eizo Warranty was transferable, which it is. The warranty goes WITH the unit--as long as the serial number is undamaged and comes up sold as NEW and not refurbished, it's got a warranty no matter who is in possession of it. Protip: The Eizo 5-year warranty is limited to 3.4 years if you leave your monitor on standby the whole time (30,000 hours).

Thus, I have bought a slightly used fg2421 off Amazon from a seller who says it's in perfect condition and has never restarted itself. If it does it anyway I'm seriously going to try to figure out the problem with Eizo support if possible. This one has only restarted itself ONCE, about 20 minutes after I set it up... so weird. Is it the wiring in my house???
 
Try a different cable or a different input? I see you posted in the thread about the non-compliant displayport cables, so that might be worth looking into. Having that many monitors with that issue would make me think it point towards something on the supply side (cable, surge protector, video card, etc.).

I have never had mine restart, and that was with a 780 Ti and a 7970 system, FWIW. Just a data point.
 
Try a different cable or a different input? I see you posted in the thread about the non-compliant displayport cables, so that might be worth looking into. Having that many monitors with that issue would make me think it point towards something on the supply side (cable, surge protector, video card, etc.).

I have never had mine restart, and that was with a 780 Ti and a 7970 system, FWIW. Just a data point.

Much appreciated. I tend to agree with you that it implies power side incompatibility, but only so far as this particular monitor model is concerned. Also... other people I'm seeking out are confirming it with their units. So could it be something like... we're all using surge protectors this monitor's power supply doesn't like? Like my surge protector is a 10 year old Radio Shack unit... and I'm about to go replace it because I just scared myself.
 
Ah gotcha, I didn't realize the data points are getting a lot larger for this issue. WTH Eizo?! :).

I think it is good to replace the surge protectors are a few years anyways if you have had a lightning storm or two (sorry, don't have specific numbers). The MOVs break down and aren't as effective.
 
Hm, maybe this monitor is more sensitive to clean power? My three Eizo's are plugged into a line conditioning UPS. Maybe that is why I have never experienced any restart issues.
 
K, this is a good direction to go. Eliminate variables. I'm going to invest in a high quality high wattage UPS and a "whole house" surge protector. I'm also going to have someone come check out the wiring in the house because I went up to the attic and the distribution of power doesn't look to code. Looks like a damn fire hazard tbh.
 
Hm, maybe this monitor is more sensitive to clean power? My three Eizo's are plugged into a line conditioning UPS. Maybe that is why I have never experienced any restart issues.

Its extremely possible. It could be a poorly designed power supply and it could be dirty power from the home owner. I also use a line conditioner and while my power itself is fine I have a running tally on surges and brown outs and not all power supplies are built equally.

Also all it would take would be one good surge to damage a critical component.

You also said you have an individual circuit just for your PC and PC equipment correct? That might be another reason you experience less failures as an individual clean line is far less prone to spiking plus top that with a line conditioner and you have a recipe for a very stable power source.

Hmm maybe I should add in my own dedicated circuit.
 
Hm, maybe this monitor is more sensitive to clean power? My three Eizo's are plugged into a line conditioning UPS. Maybe that is why I have never experienced any restart issues.

This is bullshit. The Eizo FG2421 I had was connected to a UPS and the power was as clean as it could possibly be. And it started restarting itself several times per day on the 3rd or 4th day of use. This monitor is junk and should be avoided, there are no other options. It sucks and it is a broken hardware to begin with.
 
I have never had a restart on my monitor. I bought it immediately after it became available in the US so I have had it for a decent amount of time now.

I am running the monitor on DVI, and it is connected through a line conditioning UPS. Not sure if that really has anything to do with it though.
 
Thanks, guys. I appreciate the kindness. I really fell in love with this display's color depth so it sort of breaks my heart to have to give up on it, but I can't even find one keeper, much less 3.

The biggest problem is the random restarting. All of the panels I've had did it except the one with the smashed bezel and the smudge in the center of the screen which I didn't really test at all. Kinda seems like just a bad design but I imagine the restarts would be covered under Eizo's warranty, if they would actually take the trouble to verify such an intermittent issue. Then again having ALL my fg2421's randomly restart on me makes my system or power delivery look like a possible factor--but it's not a problem with other display types so... I was originally planning to RMA one of the displays to Eizo but I've just had it and all 4 are back or are going back to the retailers. Newegg's probably had it with this thing, too. They've paid shipping both ways on 3 of these. Provantage is paying for the return shipping on the one I have currently, which has the completely dead pixel pretty much dead center, and restarted itself about an hour ago. Normally I would be enjoying the opportunity to research a different model monitor to get instead, but since there are nothing but TN Lightboost monitors on the market I find this all very disappointing.

I consider myself lucky to have found a semi-gold i7 but I went through a bunch of them and lost an arm and a leg selling them off. Never returned/RMAd a single one of the 4770k's I went through because they all worked within spec. I don't really like returning things and since I started looking for a 120Hz monitor I've been doing a ton of it. Wish I didn't know what "refresh rate" means.

Waiting for Benq XL2420Z now. Bug with XL2720Z is not encouraging.

I thought Provantage didn't pay return shipping?
 
This is bullshit. The Eizo FG2421 I had was connected to a UPS and the power was as clean as it could possibly be. And it started restarting itself several times per day on the 3rd or 4th day of use. This monitor is junk and should be avoided, there are no other options. It sucks and it is a broken hardware to begin with.

are you sure your UPS provides power conditioning, and if so are you sure you plugged into a port that *IS* conditioned?
 
That was going to be my question as well, but the e-rage left me to drop it to the wayside. You really aren't going to know without an o-scope or meter to tell you otherwise, and it was a theory that is reaching to begin with even though it is plausible.
 
are you sure your UPS provides power conditioning, and if so are you sure you plugged into a port that *IS* conditioned?

Yes for sure, first thing I checked when it first restarted was the UPS. The monitor was connected to the UPS outlets that are conditioned, one of the four that are connected to the 750W battery. And the battery functions alright. So it's definitely the monitor power pcb or whatever that is broken inside of it power related, regardless the power source.
 
There is a lot of reports of random restarts going off.

I never had the problem with the two I owned though, had the first around a week and the second about 3 weeks.
 
Heh, new 1 star FG2421 review on Newegg describes the panel I received OB with the bezel cracked open. Can tell because there was a weird smudge in the center of the screen and he details it exactly. Don't think they will be putting that one back up, they get it back tomorrow and I'm interested to see if there are any problems with the RMA as it would appear the damage occurred while it was being shipped to me.

Also sent off the one with the single dead pixel to ProVantage today. Currently using an HP f1905 from last century. This thing does 75Hz! (At 1280X1024) lol. Hopefully the Foris I ordered off Amazon doesn't get busted in shipping... Should be here Monday. New UPS is installed and ready (wanted one anyway).
 
I am happy you didn't buy a whole house surge protector on account of us nerds :). My three UPS systems have paid for themselves in the lack of hassle that I have had to deal with, so they are always nice to have. Here is to hoping that the monitor from Amazon is a keeper!

Also, WTH Newegg?! I guess I can ship them shit bricks in a box next time I do an RMA.
 
Chalk me up as another one that had the restart issue with the FG2421....thankfully after 2 months of ownership the retailer is allowing me to return it for a full refund! Its a great display but I am not in the mood to play the panel lottery and frankly 1080p is an abomination to the eyes...crossing my fingers for a 4k version of this display when dp 1.3 drops it like its hot.

About 50% of the time it would go entire sittings without having it happen, 48% of the time it happend once every 3-4 hours. And one time I had it happen twice back to back and then perfect for the next 3 hours! It seems totally random and I know its not a GPU driver issue because I have tried my Titan rig and my R9 290x rig.
 
I returned this monitor after using it for a week. The one I bought was a really good one! No pixel faults, minimal clouding in one corner, and none of the problems that have been described previously of backlight bleed, crosshatching (though I’m not sure exactly how that’s supposed to look) or anything else.

What killed it for me was the color fidelity. Unlike the FS2333 the overall color channel balance made it impossible to get near-reference quality without calibrating with an icc profile. When the channels are well balanced you can get close enough without it, and it’s one of the reasons I really like the FS2333. The advantage of it is that I can adjust it with a calibrator on PC and then enjoy the same quality colors on PS3 or other consoles.

Even when it was calibrated the small color gamut made movies and photos look washed out. If your only priority is games and response time, then the FG2421 is a decent monitor, but I use my monitor for just about everything. As a true general purpose screen that will do the job, no matter what that might be, it wasn’t good enough for me. I’ve been spoiled by the colors on the FS2333. I couldn’t live with colors that bad. Not worth it, despite the impressive contrast and 120hz speed. What this experience taught me was that contrast isn’t everything.
 
I returned this monitor after using it for a week. The one I bought was a really good one! No pixel faults, minimal clouding in one corner, and none of the problems that have been described previously of backlight bleed, crosshatching (though I’m not sure exactly how that’s supposed to look) or anything else.

What killed it for me was the color fidelity. Unlike the FS2333 the overall color channel balance made it impossible to get near-reference quality without calibrating with an icc profile. When the channels are well balanced you can get close enough without it, and it’s one of the reasons I really like the FS2333. The advantage of it is that I can adjust it with a calibrator on PC and then enjoy the same quality colors on PS3 or other consoles.

Even when it was calibrated the small color gamut made movies and photos look washed out. If your only priority is games and response time, then the FG2421 is a decent monitor, but I use my monitor for just about everything. As a true general purpose screen that will do the job, no matter what that might be, it wasn’t good enough for me. I’ve been spoiled by the colors on the FS2333. I couldn’t live with colors that bad. Not worth it, despite the impressive contrast and 120hz speed. What this experience taught me was that contrast isn’t everything.

Did you experience the shutting off issue?
 
What killed it for me was the color fidelity. Unlike the FS2333 the overall color channel balance made it impossible to get near-reference quality without calibrating with an icc profile. When the channels are well balanced you can get close enough without it, and it’s one of the reasons I really like the FS2333. The advantage of it is that I can adjust it with a calibrator on PC and then enjoy the same quality colors on PS3 or other consoles.

Even when it was calibrated the small color gamut made movies and photos look washed out....

Movies are encoded with the Rec 709 primaries (identical to sRGB primaries).

According to this review, the FG2421 has a slightly larger gamut than sRGB. I'm not sure why you think it has a small color gamut.

What instrument(s) did you use to calibrate your display?

Could it be that the washed out appearance is due to a low gamma?

And what do you mean by "calibrating with an icc"? An icc profile characterizes a display, and then color aware applications can use that profile to transform the input values into a desired target. Unless you're using MadVR and have made a 3DLUT, there's no way you'd be able to use an icc profile for movies, unless you're talking about the vcgt tag (which is 1D LUT, and will adjust white point balance and gamma).
 
Just received mine. Won't even turn on. When I turn on the power switch and *immediately* hit the power button, the power light goes blue for a little less than a second before shutting off. If I wait before pressing the power button after turning on the switch, the power light doesn't even blink. I can't get nvidia-settings to see it even when the blue light is on, although that may just be because I'm not quick enough to hit "Detect Displays" before the blue light shuts off.

Back to Provantage it goes.
 
Movies are encoded with the Rec 709 primaries (identical to sRGB primaries).

According to this review, the FG2421 has a slightly larger gamut than sRGB. I'm not sure why you think it has a small color gamut.

What instrument(s) did you use to calibrate your display?

Could it be that the washed out appearance is due to a low gamma?

And what do you mean by "calibrating with an icc"? An icc profile characterizes a display, and then color aware applications can use that profile to transform the input values into a desired target. Unless you're using MadVR and have made a 3DLUT, there's no way you'd be able to use an icc profile for movies, unless you're talking about the vcgt tag (which is 1D LUT, and will adjust white point balance and gamma).

Prad.de dinged it for color accuracy as well, even after being calibrated, but games aren't really the medium for being color accurate to begin with. And yes, TFTCentral identified no "small gamma" issue with this so maybe your colorimeter is screwed up and working incorrectly (or it is suffering from instrument drift...). Some older calibration devices have issues with LED backlighting vs CCFL so keep that in mind as well.

<removed whining from post>
 
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Prad.de dinged it for color accuracy as well, even after being calibrated...

Do you know off hand what aspect of color accuracy they found lacking?


And yes, TFTCentral identified no "small gamma" issue with this so maybe your colorimeter is fucked up and working incorrectly (or it is suffering from instrument drift...). Some older calibration devices have issues with LED backlighting vs CCFL so keep that in mind as well.

Depending on the content being viewed (for example content mastered with a gamma of 2.4), and viewing conditions, even a gamma of 2.2 can appear slightly washed out.

But yea, if he's reporting a "small" color gamut, then his instrument is probably off. Either that, or he is assuming it should be closer to adobe RGB.
 
The color gamut is mismatched: it's too small some parts and larger in others which yields a low Absolute sRGB color space calculation (87-90% is typical) since values outside of the gamut are not included. The native color space coverage will exceed 100%.
 
It has been a couple of months, and my short-term subscription has lapsed, so I am fuzzy on the details. That and I was trying to fuss with google translate and the little german I know to begin with. I remember that they had a higher dE after calibration compared to most monitors, and the overall review was "this monitor gets a satisfactory rating if you have to take the whole package inc. color accuracy but gets an very good rating if it is just taken as a gaming screen".

It is still in preview mode though for $2.50ish if you want to read it.
 
I remember that they had a higher dE after calibration compared to most monitors, and the overall review was "this monitor gets a satisfactory rating if you have to take the whole package inc. color accuracy but gets an very good rating if it is just taken as a gaming screen".

TFT central reported an average DE of under 2.0 after calibration which is respectable, but certainly not what the other monitors were capable of. The contrast ratio and black levels blew the other monitors out of the water though.

I'd want to see the monitor display some reference material before relying on numbers, though.
 
The color gamut is mismatched: it's too small some parts and larger in others which yields a low Absolute sRGB color space calculation (87-90% is typical) since values outside of the gamut are not included. The native color space coverage will exceed 100%.

Can you link to this info?
 
But yea, if he's reporting a "small" color gamut, then his instrument is probably off. Either that, or he is assuming it should be closer to adobe RGB.

I was using Calman RGB with the Spectracal C3 meter which is less than a month old. I've seen colors drift on meters before like my old Spyder 3 and X-Rite i1Display Pro. This new one is creating noticably better results than either of those, which I assume is partially because it hasn't started drifting yet.

When the Calman Client applies the icc profile it does more than just gamma correction. Unless a game or something messes it up it'll clamp the color gamut as close to whatever target you chose, which in my case was sRGB and gamma 2.2. I tried 2.4 as well which does help a bit in reducing the washed out effect, but it was noticably worse than all my IPS screens in both 2.2 and 2.4.

It's too bad I didn't take pictures of the color gamut measurements, because they show how it goes outside the sRGB target gamut in a peculiar way. It doesn't go outside the sRGB gamut in a linear fashion, but instead is off hue on all the primary colors. When it's clamped to sRGB with calibration it causes all the primaries to be undersaturated compared to what I've seen from other higher gamut screens which manage to encompass all of the sRGB space.
 
When the Calman Client applies the icc profile it does more than just gamma correction. Unless a game or something messes it up it'll clamp the color gamut as close to whatever target you chose, which in my case was sRGB and gamma 2.2. I tried 2.4 as well which does help a bit in reducing the washed out effect, but it was noticably worse than all my IPS screens in both 2.2 and 2.4.

What do you mean by applying an icc profile? Calman can create an icc profile, but other color aware software needs to actually use this. You won't be able to use an icc profile in windows desktop, for example, or games, or movies (with the exception of MadVR).

It's too bad I didn't take pictures of the color gamut measurements, because they show how it goes outside the sRGB target gamut in a peculiar way. It doesn't go outside the sRGB gamut in a linear fashion, but instead is off hue on all the primary colors. When it's clamped to sRGB with calibration it causes all the primaries to be undersaturated compared to what I've seen from other higher gamut screens which manage to encompass all of the sRGB space.

Yes, you can only change the hue angle and reduce saturation. After calibration, how did the primaries compare to the sRGB targets?

Also be aware that remapping your primaries is something that you won't be able to implement without color aware applications.

For general use, you're basically stuck with the primaries of the display (unless the display itself has hardware color management where it can remap the primaries).

So best to focus on white point balance/grayscale tracking, gamma, and contrast. White point balance and gamma can all be fine tuned with a 1D LUT, which can easily be implemented system wide, unlike ICC profiles.
 
Just received mine. Won't even turn on. When I turn on the power switch and *immediately* hit the power button, the power light goes blue for a little less than a second before shutting off. If I wait before pressing the power button after turning on the switch, the power light doesn't even blink. I can't get nvidia-settings to see it even when the blue light is on, although that may just be because I'm not quick enough to hit "Detect Displays" before the blue light shuts off.

Back to Provantage it goes.

That's... weird. Did you try calling Eizo to troubleshoot it?

I think these monitors have more going on than just QC issues... they aren't really being shipped in very good manufacturer's packaging.

I'm definitely not in the market for any more FG2421's at the moment. If the one I got off Amazon works out, great I might keep looking. If not, I'll be looking at something cheaper with less contrast. Probably 3 Gsynced 248QEs unless the upcoming XL2420Z from Benq is a real knockout.
 
That's... weird. Did you try calling Eizo to troubleshoot it?

I think these monitors have more going on than just QC issues... they aren't really being shipped in very good manufacturer's packaging.

I'm definitely not in the market for any more FG2421's at the moment. If the one I got off Amazon works out, great I might keep looking. If not, I'll be looking at something cheaper with less contrast. Probably 3 Gsynced 248QEs unless the upcoming XL2420Z from Benq is a real knockout.

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AAAAAARGH. I am a moron.

I want to say, in my defense, that I did actually figure this out on my own - I at least didn't have to call Eizo to figure this part out. But I'm still a moron.

When I first plugged the monitor in, I was randomly flipping the switch and pressing the power button after flipping it. The first time I saw a power light, I just assumed that was the "on" position of the switch. I do seem to remember trying the other position (what I had determined to be "off") a couple of times, but I must not having waited long enough, because the power light never came on.

So yes. I was pressing the power button after turning the switch *off*, and the power light was turning on for a second before the rest of the power discharged. I am a moron.

Now that I'm no longer attempting to use the monitor when it's switched off, I've gone through dead pixel tests and stuff, and everything seems okay so far. I notice zero backlight bleed with blacks and very dark grays, but about a centimeter of noticeable bleed starts to show up on the right side once I hit #050505 in HTML notation. I'll have to see if it's enough to be noticeable in games and videos later tonight, when I don't have sunlight punching my eyeballs through the window. Games and videos are the only things that I use fullscreen - when I'm working with images, they're generally in the center of the screen, so they won't be affected by the backlight bleed.

I'm leaving my original idiocy here in all of its glory, italicized below.
[/edit]

I haven't - it's acting much like I would expect a computer with a dead power supply (something with a few capacitors that don't hold the right charge, or a few resistors that don't resist what they're rated for) to act - when it's just starting to receive power, it acts normally, but after it has a steady stream of electrons, it just isn't working right. It's delivering the wrong amount of power to the rest of the components. Or, well, that's how I'm interpreting it, because that's happened to me with power supplies in computers before and the result was similar.

I'll attempt giving Eizo a call in the morning. I expect, though, that the display isn't receiving the right amount of power - something's probably seriously broken. I blame Fedex, mostly because they nearly cost me $200 worth of miniatures when I ordered a pretty large package from Wyrd Miniatures, last summer, and I'm still bitter at them for it.

To be fair, DOA stuff happens, and I'm usually the one it happens to. Believe it or not, I once received a DOA computer case - the motherboard mount was imperceptibly bent, just enough to cause the motherboard to fry. I went through three motherboards before I figured that out. I kept thinking some other part in the computer was responsible, but nope - replacing the case was what finally made the computer run stable, and it's been running fine since then.

Granted, I was hoping I would at least be able to compare the FG2421 to my current *VA display, even if it came with dead pixels or a bad backlight or something; but I'm not peeved. I expect my search to be a long (and probably expensive) process, but I'm determined. I'll just pretend I'm playing the next Final Fantasy (the real life version); based on how the series has been going, my journey will probably involve a deeper, more complex story, with much more engaging gameplay, than whatever FF15 turns out to be.

---

By the way, just as a minor side note: I've been using *VA panels since my last CRT blew. I can put up with bad input lag and motion blur (even though I can definitely notice it), but my job requires acceptable colors and black levels. So as much as I understand the desire to just give up on the FG2421 and get something else, *my* something else is pretty much what I currently have. And what I currently have sucks for gaming. So the FG2421 is really my only chance to get something that works for everything I need *and* want it to, without spending a fortune on an OLED display of some type. And if I'm going to spend $6,000 or more on something, it's probably going to be a supercharger or turbo for my RX-8.

That, combined with the fact that I already have a huge surplus of monitors in my apartment (I have several in the closet, because I have nothing to attach them to at the moment; and my 27" is sitting next to my projector just in case we ever want to watch something and the ambient light is too much for the projector to overcome), means that I'm going to be patient.

... That was all just to say that I'm gonna find a good one, damnit, even if it takes me months or years. I don't care that Sharp has been less than great with their panels, or that Eizo has been less than vigilant with their monitors (in this particular series). I'm overjoyed to find out that there's an LCD out there that might not disappoint me (if I find a good one). Falling short of the thousands of dollars it would take to pick up an OLED, I'm willing to spend all sorts of time and money to locate a good FG2421.
 
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I couldn't keep up with that 1cm bleed on the right side and actually there was some on the left side too, although it was less pronounced on the left. It was impossible to see it on solid colors including black, but on some secondary colors it was simply unbearable. Eizo repair service informed me several days ago that that bleed is not normal, but they managed to remove the eyebrow hair from under the coating. (somehow! :eek:).
Here are the colors where that bleed becomes apparent (I made them for justification of the return for the shop):

Just make sure you open the images in full screen with no bar on the right or left. ;)
 
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AAAAAARGH. <snip>

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. I felt a little sheepish for suggesting troubleshooting with Eizo, because your response was clearly from a well informed and experienced techie. The truth is, it coulda happened to anyone, because the power LED and symmetrically corresponding light-sensor on the other side of the OSD buttons are confusing looking. I don't like the menu bottons, much but I got used to them, they should have proximity sensors that light when you get close to them for this kind of money, imo.
 
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