e5200 retail + ecs g3 mobo = $88 after rebate, free shipping

V

vibe

[H]ard|Gawd
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can you explain why its hotter? Doesnt have gig nic which is a big negative in my book. Newegg customers say lacks overclocking bios options.
 
price is hotter, not features
if you don't like the mobo, consider it a spare mobo for $30 in case your other mobo fails
 
This is a basic motherboard that you can't really oc, but it is great for a family member who needs a basic computer.

The motherboard is 39.99 and you get a 12 dollar discount making it 27.99.

I wouldn't even bring up OCing for its OC potential is almost non existent (though it has some.)
 
I got 3.0 GHZ from a e5200 with no voltage control. The only g31 chipset board I have seen that has voltage control is the Gigabyte.
 
if youre looking to play games with this though, the +3ghz overclock can really help. 3.5 seems to be fairly common with stock cooling, and it seems to be a considerable difference over 3.0ghz in benchmarks
 
The ewiz deal comes and goes, it was back to $99 on the 15th with a $15 coupon + 5% cashback backing it like $85 or so.
 
bsel mod your cpu for voltage and you should be able to attain alot higher overclocks.
 
1. Who cares about overclocking options on a $25 motherboard? Pardon my french, but If you are looking for overclocking options here you must be fucking retarded or something.

2. If you insist on overclocking with this board, you can do an easy pad/pin mod with conductive ink or rear window defogger repair paint to up the voltage and the FSB and then you're in business.


Helluva hot deal, OP, thanks for contributing! :)
 
Blue Falcon said:
1. Who cares about overclocking options on a $25 motherboard? Pardon my french, but If you are looking for overclocking options here you must be fucking retarded or something.

2. If you insist on overclocking with this board, you can do an easy pad/pin mod with conductive ink or rear window defogger repair paint to up the voltage and the FSB and then you're in business.


Helluva hot deal, OP, thanks for contributing! :)
Click to expand...

the point is the e5200 can overclock considerably more with a voltage bump- so much so that it really turns it into a different beast. if you don't get a motherboard that can raise the vcore, you're actually diminishing your value on the deal. i would rather spend $60 on a board that can make my parts run at their top speed then $25 and be stuck at stock levels. that said, hell yeah, if you dont plan on gaming much with this then its a great deal.
 
spacetrader said:
the point is the e5200 can overclock considerably more with a voltage bump- so much so that it really turns it into a different beast.
Click to expand...

And again I say if you are determined to overclock 'on the cheap' a simple conductive ink pad mod will net you that bump in voltage. (and you can do an FSB pad mod as well, although this board does let you adjust the FSB)
 
Fry's has the E5200 and a BIOSTAR board that DOES support overclocking and other options, G31-M7 TE, for $99.99, a far better deal in my opinion, but as always it's a B&M special only. Sale lasts through Thursday (this week's big Fri-Thurs sale).

Thinking about grabbing one for myself for a spare box, along with 4GB of Kingston HyperX DDR2 800 for $40 as well. The ECS board in that other combo doesn't support DDR2 800 iirc, just DDR2 667 max, whereas this BIOSTAR board does so you can expect the 1:1 ratio since the E5200 is an 800 FSB CPU... bonus! :D
 
newegg had the e5200 with a gigabyte mobo, g31, for $112 combo. I ordered that to do a cheap build, with a spare gtx 260 core 216 I have.
 
Fry's has the E5200
Click to expand...

Fry's-smyes.....I wish somebody would drag these guys to Ohio. :(


PS, My internet's soo slow today, I feel like I'm back on WebTV.
 
Blue Falcon said:
And again I say if you are determined to overclock 'on the cheap' a simple conductive ink pad mod will net you that bump in voltage. (and you can do an FSB pad mod as well, although this board does let you adjust the FSB)
Click to expand...

thanks for getting that into my thick head.

this is cool, i will be doing this for sure. but just for confirmation, my e5200 will be the same as this pic right?

E2180 vmod

2728948390063660723S600x600Q85.jpg
 
spacetrader said:
thanks for getting that into my thick head.

this is cool, i will be doing this for sure. but just for confirmation, my e5200 will be the same as this pic right?

E2180 vmod

2728948390063660723S600x600Q85.jpg
Click to expand...

I was looking at this today and I agree this is the correct mod for bumping the 5200 to 1.3625 volts. I will be trying this out soon.

Check this thread, using an e5200

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=2933913
 
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ill be trying this tomorrow. first time in awhile i wish i didnt have to work; this reminds me of back in the day with my 1700+ to a 2600+ mod. about the same benefit too. i remember using a damn pencil to make that work... and this i can probably grab a defogger repair kit from work.

if i can hit 3.5ghz i will be all smiles... time will tell. btw, im running the asrock g31 board that was bought in a similar hot deal. if the mod works, there is no way to even come close to this performance for under a bill... its pretty amazing what money can buy these days.
 
It's done. im a little messy at these things, but this is also nanoscale for me.

dont mind the tape on the right... i didnt see that until i posted this pic. glad i took the pic! :D
IMG_1690.JPG


you can see its not completely connected, it was until i wiped some of it off. there was a point where i had smeared the conductive paint across about 1/4 of the entire amount of pins... i got scared at that point... but alcohol seemed to clean it right off.

IMG_1692.JPG


i found the conductive paint at oreillys. only place in town that had it, and it i had to ask at the counter for it. it was in the way back where customers are not allowed. but, only $8 after tax.. not bad.

pray for me as i reassemble and hook back up....
 
I picked up some window defroster paint today. Will take apart the 5200 system when I am less tired.
 
it didnt work. 1.16vcore still. o/c failed. i really thought i had it... ill try again

edit- still no go. im starting to wonder if this is the right mod picture diagram. i had an even better attempt this time, and yet still 1.16vcore.

IMG_1695.JPG
 
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Doesn't look like it should to me at all, it shouldn't look transparent like that. If you're using the defogger repair ink make sure you are shaking up the bottle really good right before you use it.

Also if you have a multimeter test for continuity between the two points you inked. :)
 
testing? testing!?! youre crazy:D:D:p

well, turns out i dont think the diagram is right.

i think this is what i want- close, but i was missing a piece of tape over one pin
sdsddsd.jpg


however, i just put that tape on, and now it does look like that pic. and yes, i did shake the bottle, you can see in my last pic i had more on there. it did make a difference, i now have 1.2v steady, but its not where it should be.

i guess its either not a good enough connection between the pins (seems like it would work or it wont) or the layout is still wrong.
 
You don't need the tape just to the left of the shorted pads, you can remove it. You do need the tape on that left hand pad underneath the jumpered pads.

That should, when done properly, have your E5200 running at 1.375v... unless you have an E5200 with a really weird stock VID or something.


Also some tips:

1. Once you've figured things out for permanent use you can replace the tape with a dab of nail polish or superglue. That way you won't need to worry about the tape coming loose and moving around later on.
2. Although the circuitwriter pens and defogger ink tend to be pretty solid when completely dry, you CAN paint over this ink with nail polish to make it even more secure.... gotta have a really steady hand though.
 
ok, last attempt tonight i think.

im leaving that tape on, it was too much a pita to get it there :)

pray... pray...
IMG_1697.JPG








edit fail.

ok, so i noticed speedstep and all that was on, so i tried turning it off... vcore went from 1.2 to 1.26v. thinking i probably had it working, i ran up the cpu to 3.4ghz and tried to boot. that fails at post, and i go back into bios and its now back to 1.17v :mad: and cpuid shows it as 1.13 now that im in windows :mad: :mad:

back to research. maybe this motherboard just wont do it.. like i said i have the asrock version.
 
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ok i need help.

im still working on it, its almost 1am and i have to work tomorrow.

but there is progress. nutshell- ive tried a few combinations now, and was able to get it back to 1.25vcore but it would shut down in bios. (mind you, i think my bios is reading terribly low on the vcore)

so, after doing more reading, im halfway understanding this stuff. for one, MY default VID is 1.2375v

knowing that, and having the intel pdf, i should be able to figure out what pins to ground and block. i dont understand how to take my default vid value and use the tables to get my wiring diagram. what's explained on those other forums just isnt quite thorough enough to get the learnings in me.

so, even if nobody wants to just tell me the answer, teach me to fish because im willing to learn this. basically no value in real world life, but this stuff is kinda fun to me.


edit- i think it just clicked in my head. you use your default compared to what you want, and if you want to go from a 1 to 0 that means you ground it out, if you go from 0 to 1 you put a piece of tape on it, and if its the same you leave it alone.

so, that would mean my original 8 attempts were with the wrong pattern for my chip. this is what i think i want-

e5200VID12375.jpg

if anyone would be kind to confirm this image is accurate (its my creation, it could be wrong), i will attempt it in real life tomorrow. my brain is too fried to be trusted right now.
 
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it works!! i did it! that diagram is right apparently... well, its hard to tell if things are exactly right, im still showing 1.26 in cpuz, and 1.3 in bios- but all i know is this is the first time its ever booted into windows above 3ghz. running at 3.33ghz right now, as 266x12.5 makes an even 800 on the memory. i can probably go higher, but as my default vid is so high it probably means this chip is not a good overclocker anyway.

im going to run some stress tests now... pretty confident its stable though. cpuz is also showing the rated fsb at 1064.. as it should be i think.

this is so cool i figured this out on my own. this is better then the 1700+ days- those chips went for $50 eventually, but the motherboards still cost $60+. also, this mod (its easy once you know whats going on) makes these 'hot deal' combos REALLY hot imo...


edit- yikes... after 10min of pi its showing 72c for a temp! ... the other core is pushing 74c... i might have to shut pi down before my htpc melts down haha... i think im at the limits of the stock intel cooler....

and its done. the one core kept nudging 82c here and there, but mostly stayed at 76c. the other core stayed below 75c the whole time. not really temps that i like, but it passed 32m pi test so it can't be that bad-
hpi_20090422_162851.png

the times might not be the best as i was doing other things while it was running... it was the first time this pc seemed slow to me haha.
 
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If you're using the stock Intel HSF and you plan to leave this overclocked, get a better cooler, and fast. The Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7 is under $30 and highly regarded these days. 70C+ consistently will kill that chip in short fashion, but for the cost most people don't care. Was planning to get that Fry's combo and push it to 3.33 (266 FSB) and be done with it, but I think I'll hold off on building a new machine for a few months...
 
I am puzzled that cpuz is not showing the increased voltage. I still haven't gotten around to trying this out. I was looking at my vid yesterday and it was between 1.23 and 1.24 so I would guess that my chip is also 1.2375 default.

It's sort of a pain to go and get the chip out from under the xigmatek s1283, but I want to try out some overclocking on air as I haven't air overclocked since thunderbird days with the pencil trick.
 
i will be getting a cooler. probably the asus vapobearing since the arctic cooler is out of stock.

and your default VID for your cpu is critical. this is where i screwed up. every chip is tweaked to it's own VID based on how stable it is. higher default VID's usually mean poor overclockers. but in any case, you must take your exact default VID and use the intel table charts (pages 15 and 43) to figure out what mod you need to get the desired voltage. otherwise you run into things like i did, having the pc shut off completely while still in bios.

coretemp is what seems to be the best for finding your real VID.
 
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still waiting for new cooler. will come in a couple days.

my motherboard sort of froze into this weird speed- the cpu was 1.6ghz in cpuz but the bios said 3.33. superpi test confirmed it was slow.

reset bios defaults, stuck the speed to 320mhz x 12.5 = 4.0ghz. it worked great, super pi 1M test 15.8 sec and probably a low score because it likely throttled back (it was at 85c+).

im done thrashing this poor computer... back to 3.3ghz until i get my arctic freezer. i have a feeling 4ghz will be perfectly stable...
 
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