do my water cooling temps suck?

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F|nN

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Hi I have an i7 950 @4.2 GHz and the highest core reaches 71C when folding. I have one 360mm Phobia Rad mounted to the top of my Corsair 800D case for my 2 GTX 580's @ 960Mhz and the temps on those are fairly good I think. After the GPU's I have a Black Ice 360mm Rad mounted externally to the back of the case and a Koolance CPU 360 Waterblock with IC Diamond Thermal Paste. I use 3 Sycte Slipsteam 110CFM fans on each radiator that fun full all the time.

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I think the CPU temps are a little off, but I might be wrong. To provide a frame of reference, I have previously run two highly overvolted GTX 470s and an i5 @ 3.8 ghz on two Swiftec MCR 320 360mm rads. The GPUs could reach 55-60C under full load and the CPU was I think ~60-65C.

What is the CPU temp on that rig when you folded on stock cooling and aftermarket air cooling? Is it properly seated with even weight distribution (i.e. did you turn all four screws an equal number of times)? I also read that the CPU temp takes a couple days to go down on WC setup, depending on the thermal paste being used and bubbles being worked out of the system.
 
1366 i7 @ 4.2 @ 1.32 volts w/ HT, yes those temps are good on the CPU, especially with the 580's thrown into the mix.
 
Your post is a bit confusing, what is your loop configuration?

Scythe slipstreams are horrible radiator fans, especially on high fpi radiators. Get some Yate Loons or Cooler Master R4 2000rpm fans, or Gentle Typhoons if you can afford/find them.
 
Tsumi said:
Your post is a bit confusing, what is your loop configuration?

Scythe slipstreams are horrible radiator fans, especially on high fpi radiators. Get some Yate Loons or Cooler Master R4 2000rpm fans, or Gentle Typhoons if you can afford/find them.
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I use Scythe Kama Flex 120's. 12cm by 3,8cm thick. They are wonderful for lower RPM radiator cooling. I have them in pull.

My idle temps on 3 GPUs is about 38c and my office is always 35c. AC is broken right now. My CPU under full load hits about 70c and then stables out around 65c so your temps are fine OP.
 
Matrices said:
What is the CPU temp on that rig when you folded on stock cooling and aftermarket air cooling? Is it properly seated with even weight distribution (i.e. did you turn all four screws an equal number of times)? I also read that the CPU temp takes a couple days to go down on WC setup, depending on the thermal paste being used and bubbles being worked out of the system.
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I never had a stock cooler or after market air cooling on it. It is the first PC I ever built and went straight to watercooling.

I use IC Diamond and its been running for around 2 months. My origional watercooling consisted of the CPU only and an aircooled GTX570 untill I got the folding@home bug. :p

AdvanSuper said:
1366 i7 @ 4.2 @ 1.32 volts w/ HT, yes those temps are good on the CPU, especially with the 580's thrown into the mix.
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yeah but the liquid runs through another 360 rad before the CPU block so it should definitely compensate for it considering the fairly good GPU temps.

Tsumi said:
Your post is a bit confusing, what is your loop configuration?
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Its Reservoir>Pump>Bottom GPU>Top GPU>360 Rad>CPU>360 Rad>Back to same Reservoir.

Also, I'd be looking to take the CPU a little bit higher GHz and alot more folding with 100% so any suggestions on how to lower the temps would be much appreciated.
 
Okay, because when I read your post, at first I assumed you had two loops.

Your temps are fine with that kind of setup, you can go up to 80 or 90 C on your CPU. Water temperature within loops don't vary much, so loop order does not really matter (it doesn't matter that you have a 360 before the CPU instead of the radiators one after the other).
 
Do you guy think they will improve any bit if I got shrouds for the particular radiator that before the CPU? since its mounted externally to the back of my case?
 
Change out your fans. As I said, those slipstreams are horrible radiator fans. Gentle Typhoons if you don't have a budget, and Yate Loons or Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM fans if you are on a budget. And get them in push/pull, it'll help more than adding shrouds.

Which Black Ice radiator do you have?
 
Tsumi said:
Change out your fans. As I said, those slipstreams are horrible radiator fans. Gentle Typhoons if you don't have a budget, and Yate Loons or Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM fans if you are on a budget. And get them in push/pull, it'll help more than adding shrouds.

Which Black Ice radiator do you have?
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I'm not sure as to what make the Balack IC rad is as I got it as a free gift when buying 2 GTX580 HC from someone. Just in case it was a particular model/type Black Ice had the fins on it are alot more compact together. The seller also gave me a Feser 240 rad and I was thinking about changing it and using that to see if it would make a difference.
 
F|nN said:
I'm not sure as to what make the Balack IC rad is as I got it as a free gift when buying 2 GTX580 HC from someone. Just in case it was a particular model/type Black Ice had the fins on it are alot more compact together. The seller also gave me a Feser 240 rad and I was thinking about changing it and using that to see if it would make a difference.
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The 360 radiator would give you better performance than any 240 radiator.

The tight fin spacing means you NEED high static pressure fans. Those slipstreams are low static pressure, and lost maybe up to 80% of its airflow trying to push air through that radiator. With a high static pressure, you'll lose maybe 50% or less. So instead of the slipstream maybe pushing only 10-20 CFM through the radiator, you would get 30-50 CFM per fan.
 
I have 6 ULTRA KAZE DFS123812H-3000 that I was gonna use origialy on the rads but since they were too thick for the inside of the case I just went and got 6 of the slip-steams SY1225SL12SH because I wanted to use all the same fans but. do you think they would be much of a difference in temps to change them?
 
You needs fan that are static pressue not high are flow.

High are flow just moves a ton of air while static pressure fans can force air through the rad or through anything really that has vents lol
 
F|nN said:
I have 6 ULTRA KAZE DFS123812H-3000 that I was gonna use origialy on the rads but since they were too thick for the inside of the case I just went and got 6 of the slip-steams SY1225SL12SH because I wanted to use all the same fans but. do you think they would be much of a difference in temps to change them?
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Yes. With proper high static pressure fans, you're going to at least double if not triple your airflow at the same RPM speeds.
 
As others have said you need better fans, if the ultra kaze were too thick then you need 25mm thick units. Gentle Typhoons at 1850rpms or higher will be the best choice but they are difficult to find and expensive. Enermax makes some high static pressure fans I've been wanting to try but even some cheapy yate loons would be better than those slipstreams. The only thing to be mindful of is if your radiator is horizontal, you will want bearing fans as sleeved designs fail much quicker in this orientation.

Also, you will find your entire system is much cooler if you alter the FAH Tracker config to team 33. ;)
 
R-Type said:
As others have said you need better fans, if the ultra kaze were too thick then you need 25mm thick units. Gentle Typhoons at 1850rpms or higher will be the best choice but they are difficult to find and expensive. Enermax makes some high static pressure fans I've been wanting to try but even some cheapy yate loons would be better than those slipstreams. The only thing to be mindful of is if your radiator is horizontal, you will want bearing fans as sleeved designs fail much quicker in this orientation.

Also, you will find your entire system is much cooler if you alter the FAH Tracker config to team 33. ;)
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Thats a damn good observation I wouldnt have thought of lol....

Good catch on the bearings and fan orientation. I just use all Scyth Kamas with Fluid Dynamic Bearings so they are good at any orientation.
 
I guess the first thing we will need to know is what's your current water temperature when the CPU is full-load, and with temps as reported?

That will tell me if you're getting the heat out of the CPU, and dumped into the water.

My suspicion is that you cannot really get the heat out of the small CPU die, and that your water temp is well withn reason, and not much above ambient - probably 6-12 deg C or thereabouts.

If your water temp is well within control, no amount of rads/fans or all the other add-ons will do anything for you.

I am pretty sure that we are right on the limit of what amount of heat you can get out of the small surface-area of the modern CPU-die, and short of going sub-zero, not to much you could do there - at least nothing that will raise your overclocking headroom with a considerable amount.

I would reckon you're fine with your CPU temps as reported :)
 
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