Dell Alienware AW3423DWF 34″ QD-OLED 165Hz FreeSync Premium Pro (3440 x 1440)

[Mchart]

When you say you use the DW in long sessions, are they heavy gaming sessions with ULTRA presets or are you just browsing hardforum or writing in Word? Also I think it's fair to say some people have more sensitive hearing than others.

The DW is a very light whirring. The noise of my 3080ti and H150i in stock/balanced settings are WAY more noise. Compared to the X27 the DW is like a 1/10 in noise and the X27 was 9/10. That thing was stupid.

Is the panel 100% silent? No. But some of these complaints are a bit ridiculous as it’s nothing compared to similar in capability panels.

Any typical gaming PC will be far louder than this panel. Any ceiling fan on low is louder than this panel.

 

[Riddlinkidstoner]

My LG 34GP83A-B just past 2 years old so I went ahead and ordered this. I was really tempted by the original but this F variant seems good enough.

Anyone have pictures of it to a stand? I can't really tell based on the stock stand how it sits VESA mounted.

 

[Fleat]

Alright, I've let it sit for an hour with the white Excel page on. While I can feel the warmth coming off the top, the fan was still as quiet as an hour ago...until I started to write this post. The fan just did a quick ramp up for 2-3 seconds to its max rpm then quiet back down to its initial level. A minute or so later it started to run at a slightly faster continuous rpm. If I had to give a relative guess, initial rpm was at ~10% and after 1 hour of staying at ~10% it just ramped up to a continuous ~40%. The pitch at this rpm was not as unpleasant as what I remember the DW was when idle; it was hard to discern over my under desk PC fans. Closing the white page, and putting the screen back in full black mode (Black wallpaper, no icons, no taskbar), it took 17 minutes for the fan to come back down to its initial inaudible rpm.

I hope this answer all your questions! This is a worst case scenario of course but gives a good idea of how their rpm curve is setup. Note that my office temperature was around 21-22 Celcius.

Thank you again for running that test. That was very helpful information!

The DW is a very light whirring. The noise of my 3080ti and H150i in stock/balanced settings are WAY more noise. Compared to the X27 the DW is like a 1/10 in noise and the X27 was 9/10. That thing was stupid.

Is the panel 100% silent? No. But some of these complaints are a bit ridiculous as it’s nothing compared to similar in capability panels.

Any typical gaming PC will be far louder than this panel. Any ceiling fan on low is louder than this panel.

I can understand where you are coming from but I don't have a typical gaming PC. Mine runs nearly silent at all times and this fan is far louder than I expected based on the user feedback I read. As mentioned before, it also has a very odd fan curve which contributes to the annoyingness.

 

[Fleat]

What size fan is in the monitor and is it really easy to get to it? I know when installing fans in a PC case, the larger the fan the less noise it makes. Is there anyway to retrofit a 200mm fan and uninstall the stock one? I put a Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm Silent Fan under my router and it really is silent yet I can feel it pushing air. Even with my ear next to it I can barely hear it. I hooked it up to a USB port using a USB to 3/4-Pin PWM 5V USB Sleeved Fan Power Adapter Cable.

Someone did modify their monitor to retrofit a fan but I am warning you - it isn't pretty.
Reddit Thread
Pics

 

[Ankle]

The fan complaints still make no sense to me. I use the DW in long sessions and it never gets louder than my PC fans. It is absolutely nothing compared to the fan noise in the FALD gsync displays.

Your PC fans are too loud

Fractal torrent with fans at a fixed 600rpm or less under the desk makes for a pretty quiet noise floor. Actually beats out any water cooling loops I’ve had before when you factor in pump noise.

Didn’t some of those earlier gsync monitors have really awful loud fans because the gsync heatsink didn’t make proper contact with the chip? Pretty sure I remember people on here taking them apart and reseating them to address loud fans.

 

[Mchart]

Your PC fans are too loud

Fractal torrent with fans at a fixed 600rpm or less under the desk makes for a pretty quiet noise floor. Actually beats out any water cooling loops I’ve had before when you factor in pump noise.

Didn’t some of those earlier gsync monitors have really awful loud fans because the gsync heatsink didn’t make proper contact with the chip? Pretty sure I remember people on here taking them apart and reseating them to address loud fans.

I have a define R6. I can assure you a torrent with fans is louder than this monitor, unless you have the PC itself in a closet or something.

 

[Draver]

I had the original DW from the first batch they sent out and this F variant is an improvement for sure. I'm almost certain the DW they sent me a couple of months back was somehow defective. This F variant has a lot less quirkiness. Even the text fringing is improved.

I've been testing 150Hz 10bit as a custom resolution and so far it seems to be working perfectly fine. Add the lower noise fan, the improved OSD, updatable firmware (which hopefully will fix the EOTF tracking without having to enable Source Tone Mapping in Console mode when using HDR1000), lower price and I don't see many if any reasons to get the DW over this one.

 

[Ankle]

I had the original DW from the first batch they sent out and this F variant is an improvement for sure. I'm almost certain the DW they sent me a couple of months back was somehow defective. This F variant has a lot less quirkiness. Even the text fringing is improved.

I've been testing 150Hz 10bit as a custom resolution and so far it seems to be working perfectly fine. Add the lower noise fan, the improved OSD, updatable firmware (which hopefully will fix the EOTF tracking without having to enable Source Tone Mapping in Console mode when using HDR1000), lower price and I don't see many if any reasons to get the DW over this one.

Does enabling console mode in the osd for the source tone mapping present 4K to windows? More specifically does it throw off the DLDSR and DSR factors?

 

[Draver]

Does enabling console mode in the osd for the source tone mapping present 4K to windows? More specifically does it throw off the DLDSR and DSR factors?

DSR 2.25x DL (5160 x 2160) works with Console mode and STM (and HDR) on. I just tried Horizon Dawn and it worked at 5160 x 2160.

As a side note, if you've set your custom resolution prior enabling DSR (lets say 150Hz 10 bits), you can still use them through Windows display panel, just not while the DSR resolution is in active use. DSR will only work with the default refresh rates: 60Hz, 100Hz or 165Hz.

 

[killy754]

The fan complaints still make no sense to me. I use the DW in long sessions and it never gets louder than my PC fans. It is absolutely nothing compared to the fan noise in the FALD gsync displays.

This is because there’s a very high variability in fan noises from these panels. I’ve owned almost every gsync ultimate display, and the one thing that controls the fan noise on these panels is their fixing to the Gsync module. I’ve opened up a loud Acer X27 and the fan itself was fine, but there was barely any thermal compound and the heat sink wasn’t properly fixed to the gsync module

 

[Surly]

This is because there’s a very high variability in fan noises from these panels. I’ve owned almost every gsync ultimate display, and the one thing that controls the fan noise on these panels is their fixing to the Gsync module. I’ve opened up a loud Acer X27 and the fan itself was fine, but there was barely any thermal compound and the heat sink wasn’t properly fixed to the gsync module

Also, its not about the fan noise today, its about the fan noise 4 years from now.

 

[Draver]

Looks like the DWF can go all the way to 157Hz 10 bits using the following CVT-RBv2 timing. Thx to chlronald for finding out the appropriate timing values.

157Hz
3440 1440
8 99
32 8
3520 1553

 

[OpenSource Ghost]

Is this monitor is going to be out-of-stock mostly?

 

[Ankle]

Is this monitor is going to be out-of-stock mostly?

Doesn’t seem delivery is being pushed back at all for anyone or when viewing the estimated delivery dates. Yields are supposedly way up on QDOLED panels compared to early in the year.

 

[OpenSource Ghost]

It looks like calibration controls are much better in this version with ability to adjust color gamut hue, unlike the origin version. Having a monitor that doesn't require software 1DLUT or 3DLUT to display accurate image is big plus.

 

[Ankle]

How fast are you guys receiving your units from Dell? 10 days since shipping notification without a single tracking update yet and the delivery estimate has passed already. The suspense is meeeeh.

 

[Draver]

I got it in ~7 days including weekends with the box coming from Vancouver BC. Ordered pretty much when it became available around noon on a Thursday. It shipped the next day, Friday late at night. I started to receive Purolator updates on Wednesday afternoon of the following week when it got processed in BC and shipped by air across the country. Got it the next day, Thursday in the afternoon.

With the early black Friday sales going on this week, I'm not surprised that the mail is jammed up.

 

[Ankle]

I got it in ~7 days including weekends with the box coming from Vancouver BC. Ordered pretty much when it became available around noon on a Thursday. It shipped the next day, Friday late at night. I started to receive Purolator updates on Wednesday afternoon of the following week when it got processed in BC and shipped by air across the country. Got it the next day, Thursday in the afternoon.

With the early black Friday sales going on this week, I'm not surprised that the mail is jammed up.

Apparently their solution to Black Friday package volume is… time travel.

Estimated delivery date revised from from Nov 25th to… Nov 23rd yet it’s the 28th today? That or purolator is so slow I’ll be waiting almost a year

 

[Draver]

Apparently their solution to Black Friday package volume is… time travel.

Estimated delivery date revised from from Nov 25th to… Nov 23rd yet it’s the 28th today? That or purolator is so slow I’ll be waiting almost a year

lol, I hope not for your sake!

Where was your label created ? BC or ON ?

 

[Ankle]

lol, I hope not for your sake!

Where was your label created ? BC or ON ?

Richmond BC.

I’m on the island so I figure it’ll hit the Nanaimo depot tonight or early tomorrow. Probably here tomorrow.

 

[Draver]

Hopefully yah. At the risk of throwing salt at the wound, I'm quite satisfied with the DWF so far. It sure feels like Dell did a better job with this model, or I just got unlucky with the DW they sent me back then. I hope you end up with a good unit as well.

 

[Ankle]

Hopefully yah. At the risk of throwing salt at the wound, I'm quite satisfied with the DWF so far. It sure feels like Dell did a better job with this model, or I just got unlucky with the DW they sent me back then. I hope you end up with a good unit as well.

I didn’t think it would arrive as the purolator truck wasn’t going anywhere due to snowstorm but the contractor tossed it in his pickup and drove it over. Small town perks I guess. Sadly now the power went out before I could toy with it more. Apparently trees down over the highway and the poor fiber lines went with it so busting out the generator isn’t going to get me far this evening.

Before power went out I did get to at least give the panel a brief once over. No dead or stuck pixels. Very small micro scratches top left and right corners and a pile of residue from the foam taped over the panel. On the upside the scratches can only be seen shining direct light on it and the residue wiped off with the included cloth. However the glossy coating is super delicate and even gently removing the residue with the microfibre cloth made more micro scratches. Probably going to be a nightmare keeping it clean long term.

First impressions are… the fringing is as bad as expected. Even full screen white results in a green line along the top and pink along the bottom. Text looks like complete shit which doesn’t surprise me. I wont be using it for work so it doesn’t bother me much at least but I’m not even confident doubling the dpi would eliminate it and I doubt 6880x2880 is happening any time soon.

The lack of a polarizer is also much worse than reviews and Reddit makes it out to be imo. With only indirect low lighting the blacks look raised significantly. Even while it was powered off it was a very stark difference vs the black bezels or my c1. Pitch black room is the only way to use it and this so far is might be the deal breaker for me as I don’t like dark room viewing with Sjögren’s syndrome causing perpetually dry eyes. I’ll give it a bit and see how I feel after a week.

Panel uniformity is flawless and kinda shocking to be honest. Every WRGB OLED I’ve laid my eyes on have obvious colour temperature differences from one side of the panel to the other of varying degrees but this is perfect on full screen white. Looks like d65 without any tints from one corner to the next. I didn’t notice any of the awful near black dithering LG does to combat low chrominance overshoot either. Posterization / banding is significantly better than any of LGs panels as well looking at greyscale gradients. Even 8bit FRC looks better than my C1 in 10bit.

<Edit: powers back and sadly one of the first things I noticed was near black dithering is still a thing on QDOLED similar to the LGs. Perhaps not as strong but still pretty ugly.>

The fan didn’t appear to spin up in my limited use. This was sticking my ear up against the back. Granted brightness was set to 100nits ~ in sRGB. Unlike some users around here I don’t dig staring into the sun using a display. The couple 600nit desktop guys here always weird me out lol. I’ll torture it with full screen white in HDR later and see how it goes.

sRGB clamp seems very respectable ootb with only red being around the threshold for visible inaccuracy coming in at just a few points short of delta e 3. DCI P3 fairs worse with red hitting 3.9 and low end greyscale deviating significantly lower than gamma 2.6 though. I haven’t had the chance to play around with HDR before power went out.

OSD seems about as par with every ultra sharp I’ve owned in the last decade aside from lacking the kvm input switching. Hopefully future updates move tone mapping out of console mode as that’s the one weirdly laid out part of the OSD to me.

USB port placement is kinda meh at the bottom instead of the side but whatever. Shipped with latest firmware (M3B102). I appreciate the addition of the RGB, white and black fullscreen slides available under diagnostics so I don’t have to fire up photoshop although I’m not sure it accounts for pixel shift’s extra columns and rows. I guess I should check now and then just in case before the 30 day window is up in the event it doesn’t.

Single biggest complaint is probably just cheapskate dell including very short cables for power and DP. The 3ft USBC to DP cable is just shameful and strangely shorter than the rest. The rest are too short to reach my PC under the desk sitting without letting them sit taught in a straight line. Standing height is not even close. My prior ultrasharps came with longer cables. Be prepared to use different cables if you use a standing desk and/or very wide desk with PC down below instead of on the desk.

Whenever power is back I’ll be piddling around with CRU to try and get 10bit 144hz working with DLDSR 5k2k. That and trying autohdr and w11’s srgb clamp to see if I can avoid mode switching without ruining srgb saturation. 5s of blanking seems so slow compared to the LGs when it switches.

 

[Draver]

About the fringing, on text in particular, I wonder if the height/angle of the monitor in relation to your eyes/glasses makes a difference. It might just be placebo, but I raised my monitor just a bit compared to what I had before and also made sure the screen was at a perfect 90°. I still got my AW3418DW beside it for comparison and it's not has bad as it was with the DW. I wonder if there is panel variance on this... but I doubt it considering this stems from the sub-pixel structure which should be identical on all these monitors. One things that's on this monitor and not on the DW is the sharpness option, so maybe that also did something.

No fan or coil noise on my end either.

According to the calibration sheet on my monitor, red was also the outlier, worst then yours even: ~3.6 sRGB and ~4.3 DCI-P3 on 11-Red3. Pretty much everything else is below 1 or 2.

Agreed on the tone mapping being in a weird spot in the OSD.

You're right about the polarizer. Hardware unboxed was spot on with his comments. I watch content in the dark, so that's a no issue for me, but during the day, the bezels are darker then the screen. Speaking of watching content, I've had a really good experience using DLDSR 2.25X with 720P Netflix on this monitor. Even with the stream low native resolution, the end image is satisfyingly and surprisingly crisp. Really dark scenes are more problematic though.

If I'm not mistaken you mentioned before that you can spot the difference between 8 bit FRC and 10 bit, so your comment is high praises and quire reassuring. I guess for most people, keeping that thing at 165Hz 8Bits + dithering should be more than enough. If you figure out how to get 10 bit working at higher refresh rate with DLDSR please share it.

Mode switching was so much more painful on the DW; I suspect my unit was faulty though with insanely long delays and power cycling when going in and out of HDR. The DWF is much faster and feels normal. That's on Win 10 mind you. I'm planning to switch to 11 soon, but wanted to really get into the monitor on my current setup first. Easier to diagnose issues by changing one thing at a time.

 

[Ankle]

About the fringing, on text in particular, I wonder if the height/angle of the monitor in relation to your eyes/glasses makes a difference. It might just be placebo, but I raised my monitor just a bit compared to what I had before and also made sure the screen was at a perfect 90°. I still got my AW3418DW beside it for comparison and it's not has bad as it was with the DW. I wonder if there is panel variance on this... but I doubt it considering this stems from the sub-pixel structure which should be identical on all these monitors. One things that's on this monitor and not on the DW is the sharpness option, so maybe that also did something.

No fan or coil noise on my end either.

According to the calibration sheet on my monitor, red was also the outlier, worst then yours even: ~3.6 sRGB and ~4.3 DCI-P3 on 11-Red3. Pretty much everything else is below 1 or 2.

Agreed on the tone mapping being in a weird spot in the OSD.

You're right about the polarizer. Hardware unboxed was spot on with his comments. I watch content in the dark, so that's a no issue for me, but during the day, the bezels are darker then the screen. Speaking of watching content, I've had a really good experience using DLDSR 2.25X with 720P Netflix on this monitor. Even with the stream low native resolution, the end image is satisfyingly and surprisingly crisp. Really dark scenes are more problematic though.

If I'm not mistaken you mentioned before that you can spot the difference between 8 bit FRC and 10 bit, so your comment is high praises and quire reassuring. I guess for most people, keeping that thing at 165Hz 8Bits + dithering should be more than enough. If you figure out how to get 10 bit working at higher refresh rate with DLDSR please share it.

Mode switching was so much more painful on the DW; I suspect my unit was faulty though with insanely long delays and power cycling when going in and out of HDR. The DWF is much faster and feels normal. That's on Win 10 mind you. I'm planning to switch to 11 soon, but wanted to really get into the monitor on my current setup first. Easier to diagnose issues by changing one thing at a time.

I would not be surprised if that cause changes to perceived fringing. Astigmatisms and dry eyes muck things up pretty bad. The intensity changes a bit if I lift or apply pressure to my eye lid much like the glare and rays of light from bright highlights.

Sadly after going through hdr calibration I did notice near black dithering. It isn’t as strong as the LG panels but it’s still pretty gross to see. I was really hoping for an improvement in this area since I haven’t seen anyone mentioning much about it.

I also noticed enabling VRR seems to cause the desktop and windows to flicker. This occurs when adjusting the sliders in W11’s HDR Calibration app and when opening wallpaper engine’s system tray icon’s context menu for example. Neither flicker with VRR off and vsync on. Does the OSD have a hardware fps readout available? Would be useful to see if something is tanking desktop performance to cause the flicker.

CRU seems like a bust. If I make any changes at all nvcp will no longer show the displays section in the sidebar. From what I can tell in the CRU thread it’s a driver bug and the developer hasn’t had any luck reproducing it. If anyone’s ran into this and worked around it I’d love to know more.

 

[Draver]

I would not be surprised if that cause changes to perceived fringing. Astigmatisms and dry eyes muck things up pretty bad. The intensity changes a bit if I lift or apply pressure to my eye lid much like the glare and rays of light from bright highlights.

Sadly after going through hdr calibration I did notice near black dithering. It isn’t as strong as the LG panels but it’s still pretty gross to see. I was really hoping for an improvement in this area since I haven’t seen anyone mentioning much about it.

I also noticed enabling VRR seems to cause the desktop and windows to flicker. This occurs when adjusting the sliders in W11’s HDR Calibration app and when opening wallpaper engine’s system tray icon’s context menu for example. Neither flicker with VRR off and vsync on. Does the OSD have a hardware fps readout available? Would be useful to see if something is tanking desktop performance to cause the flicker.

CRU seems like a bust. If I make any changes at all nvcp will no longer show the displays section in the sidebar. From what I can tell in the CRU thread it’s a driver bug and the developer hasn’t had any luck reproducing it. If anyone’s ran into this and worked around it I’d love to know more.

Did you try the custom CVT-RBv2 timings at 157Hz 10 bits ? Actually, could you try something for me since you can spot the dithering. Could you create a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel, select CVT reduced blank, keep everything else at default (165hz, etc.). Apply and you should see that Windows shows it being in 165Hz 10-bit HDR even though Nvidia control panel only shows 8bpc. I suspect this is a display bug in Nvidia control panel. Since you have the eye for it, could you confirm that 10-bit actually works at 165hz doing this ?

Yes, the OSD can show FPS, in Game, Game Enhance Mode, Frame Rate. Turning it on on mine shows a steady 165hz. I haven't noticed any flickering when adjusting the HDR/SDR brightness for example (on Win 10) with VRR on. Only place where I've seen abnormal gamma flickering (as in it happens all the time and not just on loading screens) is in Stellaris when set to Fullscreen mode and the Tech preview of Sins of Solar Empire 2. Turning off VRR throught custom settings in nvidia panels fixes it in both cases. All other games (and I tried a whole lot) as well as netflix/disney+ are fine.

I did play with CRU a bit and couldn't figure out what it was showing me; it seemed like a whole lot of information/resolutions were missing.

Edit: Using this test pattern (the top is at 10bit and bottom at 8bit) found on avsforum, it looks like 165hz 10-bit HDR is working.

 

[Ankle]

Did you try the custom CVT-RBv2 timings at 157Hz 10 bits ? Actually, could you try something for me since you can spot the dithering. Could you create a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel, select CVT reduced blank, keep everything else at default (165hz, etc.). Apply and you should see that Windows shows it being in 165Hz 10-bit HDR even though Nvidia control panel only shows 8bpc. I suspect this is a display bug in Nvidia control panel. Since you have the eye for it, could you confirm that 10-bit actually works at 165hz doing this ?

Yes, the OSD can show FPS, in Game, Game Enhance Mode, Frame Rate. Turning it on on mine shows a steady 165hz. I haven't noticed any flickering when adjusting the HDR/SDR brightness for example (on Win 10) with VRR on. Only place where I've seen abnormal gamma flickering (as in it happens all the time and not just on loading screens) is in Stellaris when set to Fullscreen mode and the Tech preview of Sins of Solar Empire 2. Turning off VRR throught custom settings in nvidia panels fixes it in both cases. All other games (and I tried a whole lot) as well as netflix/disney+ are fine.

I did play with CRU a bit and couldn't figure out what it was showing me; it seemed like a whole lot of information/resolutions were missing.

Edit: Using this test pattern (the top is at 10bit and bottom at 8bit) found on avsforum, it looks like 165hz 10-bit HDR is working.

I managed to get DLDSR with CVT-RB2 timings working for 10bit 120hz and 144hz with CRU. I suspect going higher should work fine but haven’t tried as I like 144 being a multiple of 24. Tbh 120 is probably plenty and you get 24/30 then plus 5k2k is hard to hit 144hz with the 3080 anyway.

There was indeed some sort of nv driver issue at play. I did a DDU in safe mode, deleted the display I modified in CRU and rebooted installing latest dec 1st whql drivers from nvidia. After that I was able to use CRU to add a new extension block with custom resolutions and rebooted. Enable DLDSR factors in nvcp, then set the resolution, scaling and refresh from windows 11 settings panel and confirmed it was correct in nvcp.

As an added bonus DDU fixed the bug where only enhanced and reference mode works in nvcp and accurate can’t be selected. Presumably I touched the sliders at some point and reset to default wasn’t cutting it to get accurate back.

I’ll post the CRU screens in a bit once I get back in.

 

[Draver]

I’ll post the CRU screens in a bit once I get back in.

Please do!

 

[Ankle]

Please do!

1) select DisplayID under extension blocks and hit edit. By default it should say 1 data block but I’ve already added 144hz here.

2) click add at the bottom. By default you won’t have the selected block.

3) click add at the bottom again. By default there will be nothing here.

4) Select CVT-RB2 from timing drop-down and enter the refresh rate. You could do manual and calculate them like the custom resolutions in nvcp which doesn’t have RB2 but that’s more work. Hit ok when done.

5) repeat for more refresh rates if you want. Otherwise hit ok.

6) back at extension blocks hit ok again.

7) and hit ok again at the bottom of the main CRU window.

8) you can run restart.exe or reboot now. Restart.exe is probably safer if you made a mistake somehow.

This is where nvcp originally flipped out and display options disappeared but if that happens safe mode DDU and install the latest drivers again. That fixed it for me.

If it all worked you should be able to enable to DLDSR factors and then select 5k2k and set the refresh rate to 144hz or whatever you added under advanced adapter settings from windows settings or from the nvcp resolution panel.

 

[Draver]

Yup, that worked really well. Many thx! Image 1 and Image 2 is what I wasn't sure about. I did use DDU before trying it out. I had too many left over from all the test I did.

I like your argument for 120Hz, so I'll probably stick with that.

Using CRU is a much better way for playing with custom resolutions and refresh rates then using nvcp custom resolution panel, that thing is bug ridden.

 

[Ankle]

Yup, that worked really well. Many thx! Image 1 and Image 2 is what I wasn't sure about. I did use DDU before trying it out. I had too many left over from all the test I did.

I like your argument for 120Hz, so I'll probably stick with that.

Using CRU is a much better way for playing with custom resolutions and refresh rates then using nvcp custom resolution panel, that thing is bug ridden.

Does the frame rate in the OSD actually work for you? With gsync compatible enabled in nvcp it seems glued to 144Hz in every game even when the game bar fps shows much lower.

 

[Draver]

Does the frame rate in the OSD actually work for you? With gsync compatible enabled in nvcp it seems glued to 144Hz in every game even when the game bar fps shows much lower.

Just tried it in Horizon Dawn with gsync enabled and it was working yes, going from 165hz to below 100hz, following the VRR.

Speaking of Horizon Dawn, I do see a lot of gamma flickering when going in the inventory or skill panel. If there is one thing that would be a deal breaker for me, that would be it; choosing between VRR or no gamma flickering, that's a choice I don't want to make.

 

[Ankle]

Just tried it in Horizon Dawn with gsync enabled and it was working yes, going from 165hz to below 100hz, following the VRR.

Speaking of Horizon Dawn, I do see a lot of gamma flickering when going in the inventory or skill panel. If there is one thing that would be a deal breaker for me, that would be it; choosing between VRR or no gamma flickering, that's a choice I don't want to make.

Hmm is that exclusive fullscreen or borderless fullscreen? Wondering if it doesn’t apply to borderless fullscreen.

Tbh if the flicker keeps bothering me I’ll probably go back to vsync fast. It’s generally worked well enough for me over the years aside from the odd title it doesn’t work at all with.

Edit: have you had any issues with the windows hdr calibration app? Crashes after the saturation step before it can save a profile.

 

[Draver]

Hmm is that exclusive fullscreen or borderless fullscreen? Wondering if it doesn’t apply to borderless fullscreen.

Tbh if the flicker keeps bothering me I’ll probably go back to vsync fast. It’s generally worked well enough for me over the years aside from the odd title it doesn’t work at all with.

Edit: have you had any issues with the windows hdr calibration app? Crashes after the saturation step before it can save a profile.

Borderless and fullscreen, it happens in both. Note that I had the same issue in Stellaris (it was really bad to the point of being unplayable) and I was able to complete fix the issue by switching to DX11 (beta) rendering; turning off VRR or switching to borderless also worked in that case. Other game where I saw it is in Sins 2, but at this stage of the game development, there not much that can be tried except turning off VRR. Haven't really ran into this issue else where (and I tried a LOT of games) so hopefully this is only some fringe cases.

I've never really used vsync fast in the past; either vsync on or gsync. If its needed for a few games here and there, it is not the end of the world for sure. I just tried it in sins 2 and it seems to be working fine, so there you go.

About the HDR calibration app, I'm still on Windows 10 so haven't had a chance to try it yet.
Edit: I don't know if you could try to gain access to the WindowsApp folder by opening the persmission, see if that fixes it. I did it a while back trying to fix some quirks with GamePass and it did not cause any issues.

 

[Ankle]

Borderless and fullscreen, it happens in both. Note that I had the same issue in Stellaris (it was really bad to the point of being unplayable) and I was able to complete fix the issue by switching to DX11 (beta) rendering; turning off VRR or switching to borderless also worked in that case. Other game where I saw it is in Sins 2, but at this stage of the game development, there not much that can be tried except turning off VRR. Haven't really ran into this issue else where (and I tried a LOT of games) so hopefully this is only some fringe cases.

I've never really used vsync fast in the past; either vsync on or gsync. If its needed for a few games here and there, it is not the end of the world for sure. I just tried it in sins 2 and it seems to be working fine, so there you go.

About the HDR calibration app, I'm still on Windows 10 so haven't had a chance to try it yet.
Edit: I don't know if you could try to gain access to the WindowsApp folder by opening the persmission, see if that fixes it. I did it a while back trying to fix some quirks with GamePass and it did not cause any issues.

Reinstalling nv drivers again fixed hdr calibration crashing. Weird and buggy.

With either the VESA DisplayHDR Test (available from Microsoft store) or dxdiag what are the PQ values the monitor reports for you?

They differ significantly from the calibration app results and don’t appear to change regardless of switching between HDR400 True Black and HDR1000 or turning the source tone mapping on/off. I was expecting HDR1000 to report around 1000 considering the LG reports 800 which is roughly in line with its abilities.

HDR calibration puts both max luminance and full screen max luminance at 530 for me. These are way lower than what most people are getting on Reddit for the dw.

Looks like we can edit it with CRU though. Not sure I want to touch it until I understand why it’s so low to begin with.

 

[Draver]

With either the VESA DisplayHDR Test (available from Microsoft store) or dxdiag what are the PQ values the monitor reports for you?

It's exactly the same, to the last digits, on all the pictures you provided.

HDR calibration puts both max luminance and full screen max luminance at 530 for me. These are way lower than what most people are getting on Reddit for the dw.

Looks like we can edit it with CRU though. Not sure I want to touch it until I understand why it’s so low to begin with.

Maybe they were trying to protect the newer model from unnecessary burn in from user who crank their brightness to high heaven 18 hours a day.

 

[Draver]

You know what would be useful, if somebody with an AMD GPU could do the same test, see what kind of data is spills out. Reading some comments on reddit, it looks like AMD gpus don't interact with the monitor the same way as Nvidia gpus; ex: they don't require source tone mapping to be enabled.

 

[Ankle]

Did you get the same numbers in both 400 TB and 1000?

The numbers line up pretty accurately with HDR 400 True Black. Almost exactly the measurements of peak luminance and max full screen luminance. Perhaps EDID is purely static? If that’s the case I’d have expected they’d use the HDR 1000 values and tone map down for 400. Definitely way off what it outputs in HDR 1000 though and what the DW users are reporting for HDR calibration.

If anyone with a DW can run either dxdiag or the DisplayHDR Test to compare that would be interesting.

 

[Draver]

Same numbers at 400 or 1000. Seems like the monitor is not passing the information it should when switching modes. This may explains the "bug" with default tone mapping with nvidia gpus and HDR 1000.

I have a friend with the DWF who might be getting a 7900XTX. If he does, I'll ask him to check some of these things.

 

[OpenSource Ghost]

Which preset should I use for SDR sRGB gaming? I don't care for HDR or DCI-P3 colorspace. I have neither a coloriemter nor a spectrophotometer right now to take measurements and/or perform any calibration, but reviews say this monitor comes with presets pre-configured for accurate colors. I want to game using:
- D65 whitepoint
- sRGB/Rec.709 colorspace
- 6500K temperature
- BT.1886 gamma curve (or Power-Law 2.2 gamma curve)

Does anyone know whether i1Display Pro (now ColorChecker Display) colorimeter is able to accurately measure this monitor's color output with its standard OLED profile? Colorimeters use different profiles for different display types but a spectrophotometer like i1 Pro 3 is needed to actually measure light output and then use that output to profile a colorimeter. The issue is that new display technologies like QD-OLED use atypical narrow light spectrum and common consumer calibration equipment is not sensitive enough to capture accurate readings from displays that use such narrow spectrum. A high-end Klein or Minolta spectrophotometer may be necessary to capture accurate readings from this monitor, but I don't know for sure... Is there someone here with i1 Display Pro and i1 Pro 3 (or i1 Pro 1 or similar) who can share his/her results?

 

[Ankle]

Which preset should I use for SDR sRGB gaming? I don't care for HDR or DCI-P3 colorspace. I have neither a coloriemter nor a spectrophotometer right now to take measurements and/or perform any calibration, but reviews say this monitor comes with presets pre-configured for accurate colors. I want to game using:
- D65 whitepoint
- sRGB/Rec.709 colorspace
- 6500K temperature
- BT.1886 gamma curve (or Power-Law 2.2 gamma curve)

Does anyone know whether i1Display Pro (now ColorChecker Display) colorimeter is able to accurately measure this monitor's color output with its standard OLED profile? Colorimeters use different profiles for different display types but a spectrophotometer like i1 Pro 3 is needed to actually measure light output and then use that output to profile a colorimeter. The issue is that new display technologies like QD-OLED use atypical narrow light spectrum and common consumer calibration equipment is not sensitive enough to capture accurate readings from displays that use such narrow spectrum. A high-end Klein or Minolta spectrophotometer may be necessary to capture accurate readings from this monitor, but I don't know for sure... Is there someone here with i1 Display Pro and i1 Pro 3 (or i1 Pro 1 or similar) who can share his/her results?

The EDR profile will be off significantly as it’s for WRGB and even that’s not very accurate with panel variance and different generations of WRGB. It can measure the luminance up to 1000 nits but everything else will be incorrect without a spectro to profile first. You will likely shift the colours and white point to worse than ootb calibration. On a budget you can get good results with the i1Basic Pro 3 for profiling. I’m mulling over purchasing one myself to correct the black crush on my c1 as I don’t have access to the goodies at my old work place anymore.