azrael.arach
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2011
- Messages
- 152
Anyone in south Florida area that has done it and want to help out? Have a 8700k on the way.
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Is there something other than the silicone which I can use for this? Superglue seems perhaps too permanent.
I just bought a 8700k
I haven't even started to OC it yet. are the performance gains while Overclocking really that big or no?
Thanks for the reply. It's Cool Laboratory Pro I'm using between chip and IHS (and not ultra) but I have arctic silver available for IHS to heatsink and will use that instead. I don't think there's any chance at all that I will put the heatsink directly onto the CPU.I don't think the direct to die cooling offered that much more of a benefit, also without a shim/spacer you would run the chance of crushing the die if you placed the heat sink wrong or over tighten it.
Also you have to see if the Liquid Metal you are using is reactive to metal on the heat sink. I see that it says its safe to use on copper/nickel but not aluminium, it would cause corrosion and failure of the aluminum heat sink. Google it again and make sure before you take my word, not sure if I have the right Cool Labs product.
But if I am looking at the right product, I would not use Liquid Pro and directly attach the Be Quite heat sink to it.
Thanks for the tip. I'm using a de8auer device and this includes a shim which allows you to refix accurately but the glue versions of relidding guides I have seen suggests placing a small blob of glue outside the IHS and not underneath, which might inadvertently result in gluing the shim!They make different kinds of superglue. For example you can get a kind that is dissolved by acetone.
I used a Loctite formula that can be dissolved by acetone. I just put a tiny dab in each corner of the IHS when re-lidding and it's worked great.
I have used Red RTV for a good while now. Black works fine too. I just use the red because it is easier to see when working with it. Maybe Liquid Nails is more your speed. While I have not witnessed it myself, I have heard reports of folks saying that "super glue" has eaten into the substrate on CPUs.Thanks for the reply. It's Cool Laboratory Pro I'm using between chip and IHS (and not ultra) but I have arctic silver available for IHS to heatsink and will use that instead. I don't think there's any chance at all that I will put the heatsink directly onto the CPU.
Thanks for the tip. I'm using a de8auer device and this includes a shim which allows you to refix accurately but the glue versions of relidding guides I have seen suggests placing a small blob of glue outside the IHS and not underneath, which might inadvertently result in gluing the shim!
I have found this;
https://www.granvilleoil.com/techData/pdfTechData?ptdID=134
It's shown as 'RTV' and has an operating temperature up to 200cbut it says it is acetoxy cure which is possibly an issue in this application. It may affect the PCB.
I believe you, but I'm having trouble trying to translate products that you're referring to into something readily available in the UK. You're saying Permatex RTV and I'm finding Permatex 82180 and since we're talking about a £300 piece of silicon I'm nervous about putting any old thing on the chip.
I mean, Mars Climate Orbiter was screwed because of a mix up between imperial and metric measurements, and my CPU is much more important than that.
I was being sarcastic. DO NOT USE LIQUID NAILS.Thanks - Liquid nails sounds even more scary!
My suggestion is to run the seal all the way around the edge, it holds better that way and keeps the substrate from bending and impact the Z height. A lot of people do not take that into consideration when relidding. Also leave a small gap on one area to allow for expansion of gasses under the IHS. Watch the end of the Rockitt 88 review that is on the front page. I do the entire process there for you to see.So using superglue will or COULD eat into the board.
RTV wont cause any heat increase will it, and do I need to "seal" the whole spreader or can i just do like a 4 corner type set up of RTV?
So using superglue will or COULD eat into the board.
RTV wont cause any heat increase will it, and do I need to "seal" the whole spreader or can i just do like a 4 corner type set up of RTV?
I've managed to order some Permatex 82180 from a UK based company which specialises in US auto parts. Taking a look around I think there are probably other substances which will do the job but the main difference will be whether your alternative product is acetoxyl or neutral cure. The former releases a potentially corrosive substance as it cures - acetic acid - and although it's not clear to be whether this will cause an issue on the PCB I'd rather not be the person to experiment.
It would be a really useful resource to list somewhere all of the possible options. UHU 46735 is another option but at twice the price of the Permatex, and I came across a couple of items which I thought might do the trick in an electrical wholesaler. This was being sold specifically for use with PCB's so assumed that whether is was neutral or acetoxyl it would be OK.
In terms of application, I'm taking from the discussion above that I form a c-shaped seal between IHS and PCH with the permatex but that with glue I'd use blobs on the outside.
Thanks all for your help. I'll be back with praise and 'likes' or curses and recriminations once I've attempted the job!
2) Liquid Electrical Tape 20-25 EUR
Why, if you don't mind my asking?
Supposedly you need to insulate the small capacitors around the CPU die to be safe from any liquid metal pouring there and causing a sort (viscosity of liquid goes down due to heat). I am talking about HCC i9 CPUS (7940-7980) where there are capacitors really close to the cpu die.
Yes you could use nail polish but I don't want to find out how this behaves at higher than its intended use temperatures. So in the grand scheme of things liquid tape seems the appropriate material for the job. I can use it for other jobs too once I get it of course. I also have several rolls of Kapton masking tape that I could use but liquid tape seems more appropriate.
I will have to look into this further but if anyone has some experience would like to hear back.
I think you're right, I am! But when I'm voiding the warranty on a £300 piece of silicon I wan to be sure. It's pretty counterintuitive to be walking into an auto spares shop to buy something for something made from millions of 12nm transistors.I think (lol) you're overthinking this way too much.
I mean, surely over there you guys have auto-parts shops, right? Walk in, find a tube of 'gasket maker', walk out. Anything like that will work just dandy.
^^This is super helpful.Super Glue = NO! BAD! (in my experience, again - others might say different)
Liquid Nails = NO NO!
JB Weld = YOU'RE GOING TO HELL
Silicone gasket maker (what some of us call RTV) = fantastic
Window or aquarium silicone = It would probably work decent
kitchen / bath caulk = ugly but it would probably work fine
liquid electrical tape = should work just fine
Basically anything that has a somewhat adhesive property when it dries, but isn't considered permanent. Something that, if you choose to delid again in the future, it will come free with the delidding tool and remnants can be easily scraped off with a plastic spudger / credit card (similar to the stock Intel stuff).
There are probably a host of other household products common to both of our countries that would work that we aren't even thinking of.
The de8auer tool is under €30, permatex around €12, and think NoxTek is right about the permatex doing the same job as your electrical tape. The electrical tape is probably a good substance for the adhesive too if you want to drop the Permatex. I looked at a few and they seem to mostly be neutral cure and high temperature operation so seem to fit the bill.Damn this is turning to a money sink! I stayed clear from PC building for about 8-9 years but now.....
On top of my i9-7940X in order to get the best of it I also need:
1) Rockit-99 shipped from the US to Europe (about 70-80 EUR)
2) Liquid Electrical Tape 20-25 EUR
3) New Permatex (already have one) RTV this time about 15 EUR
All this in order to cool the CPU (& GPU) AND VOID my warranty at the same time - fantastic but I'll go for it.
I was thinking of not deliding at first but I simply can't resist the urge right now.
I keep making new shopping baskets left & right all over various e-shops and the packages keep coming.
The de8auer tool is under €30, permatex around €12, and think NoxTek is right about the permatex doing the same job as your electrical tape. The electrical tape is probably a good substance for the adhesive too if you want to drop the Permatex. I looked at a few and they seem to mostly be neutral cure and high temperature operation so seem to fit the bill.
Supposedly you need to insulate the small capacitors around the CPU die to be safe from any liquid metal pouring there and causing a sort (viscosity of liquid goes down due to heat). I am talking about HCC i9 CPUS (7940-7980) where there are capacitors really close to the cpu die.
Yes you could use nail polish but I don't want to find out how this behaves at higher than its intended use temperatures. So in the grand scheme of things liquid tape seems the appropriate material for the job. I can use it for other jobs too once I get it of course. I also have several rolls of Kapton masking tape that I could use but liquid tape seems more appropriate.
I will have to look into this further but if anyone has some experience would like to hear back.
Oh gosh... My advice would be to use non-electrically conductive TIM like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. I delidded my 7940x around Christmas time and put on some Kryonaut and temps have been very good. I used the Rockit tool and can say that using that tool for delidding (and relidding) makes the process so easy that it's dumb. I too was a bit terrified to delid a $1,400 chip, but I've had great results (and no regrets). For relidding, I used small dabs of super glue (gel type) in the four corners and RTV around the square (overlapping where previous seal was broken).
Since we have the same CPU and M/B (cleaning watercool parts now & building) have you overclocked it? Are you using the EK Monoblock?