DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

mattxx88

n00b
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
5
Excellent results ! I think I want to try this myself.

1.Are those the stock corsair cables?
2.Did you solder the wires back?

Thank you.
hi
1) they are 17awg wires bought from MDPC-X
2) terminals are just crimped, what i soldered are the double cables in the conjunction point
 

mcheddadi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
240
for anyone still on the asus z270i strix motherboard. there has been some recent development on the modding scene and now the bios has been unlocked to accept coffee lake cpus! 8th gen and 9th gen intel cpus. more info here:

no longer are you limited to max i7-6700k or i7-7700k. if anyone manages to do it, please post your results
 

Attachments

RPGmod

n00b
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
9
for anyone still on the asus z270i strix motherboard. there has been some recent development on the modding scene and now the bios has been unlocked to accept coffee lake cpus! 8th gen and 9th gen intel cpus. more info here:

no longer are you limited to max i7-6700k or i7-7700k. if anyone manages to do it, please post your results
I still use the asus z270i strix, and I'm looking for some hacks to use newer generation cpu-s in it, but I didn't found a way yet. This option would be great, but its in chinese and not detailed enough what to do., If you found a place where its easier to understand please let us knnow.
 

zedstar

n00b
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
7
Hi Team - in need of some help. Just upgraded to a 3600x from a 1700x using Noctua -NH-L9a AM4 x2 doing push. Check out these temps at idle - 70c!

  • ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac mobo
  • Ryzen 3600x cpu
  • EVGA 2070 Super Black

Any advice on how to reduce temps using this setup appreciated.


1587697921786.png 1587698299766.png 1587697813809.png
 

jb1

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
500
Hi all! I have an much loved A4-SFX v1 that is experiencing some panel sag toward the front end of the case on both sides. Any suggestions for how to fix before I take a hammer to the case?
 

jeremyshaw

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
12,365
jb1 What do you mean by panel sag? Is it just the plastic grommets not having enough tension, or are you not using the bottom screw holes for the panels (or did they not exist in V1?)?
Or are the panels themselves deforming?
 

zedstar

n00b
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
7
Hi all! I have an much loved A4-SFX v1 that is experiencing some panel sag toward the front end of the case on both sides. Any suggestions for how to fix before I take a hammer to the case?
pop them off and bend them back. Assume they are bending rather than sagging.
 

jb1

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
500
pop them off and bend them back. Assume they are bending rather than sagging.
Cool, thanks for the advice! I am using the screw holes, and they are attaching. Are you suggesting to bend the flaps at the bottom of the panels where the screw mounts are?
 

zedstar

n00b
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
7
Cool, thanks for the advice! I am using the screw holes, and they are attaching. Are you suggesting to bend the flaps at the bottom of the panels where the screw mounts are?
suggest you take a photo and highlight where the "sagging" is.
 

zedstar

n00b
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
7
Hi Team - in need of some help. Just upgraded to a 3600x from a 1700x using Noctua -NH-L9a AM4 x2 doing push. Check out these temps at idle - 70c!

  • ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac mobo
  • Ryzen 3600x cpu
  • EVGA 2070 Super Black

Any advice on how to reduce temps using this setup appreciated.


View attachment 240023View attachment 240027View attachment 240022
FYI - i went with the 645LT, didnt like it - temps were horrid and putting the tubes in the case are next to impossible with stock wire from the PSU. Yuck.

Instead put some "Coollaboratory Liquid Pro Thermal Compound Paste Grease" on the noctua L9a and check out these temps now.

1588997540165.png
 

zedstar

n00b
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
7
another question guys - anyone know where to source a short USB 3 cable from the front to the motherboard? the default that comes with the DAN case is wayy too long.
 
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
12
I've read that folks who had the A4 SFX V2 shaved down the plastic on their USB 3.0 cable front connector to fit the 92mm radiator with it.

Can anyone confirm that would work? They don't sell the lower-profile V3 USB cable anymore on SFF Labs.
 

Jdbye

n00b
Joined
Feb 11, 2019
Messages
13
I picked up a Noctua NH-L9a chromax.black once I saw they were available locally, as the Cryorig C7 RGB is a bit noisier than I'd like.

Did some tests before and after, and I can't say I'm impressed. It's summertime now and the temperatures inside are rather high, so it's not the best time of year to be comparing coolers, but I'd say both performed similarly.

Cryorig C7 RGB:
Ambient: 28.6C
15min run AIDA64 Stress CPU:
CPU: 84C
Package: 95C
Clock: 3.79-3.81 Ghz
Cinebench R20 score: 4231

Noctua NH-L9a:
Ambient: 28.2C
15min run AIDA64 Stress CPU:
CPU: 84c
Package: 95c
Clock: 3.79-3.82 Ghz
Cinebench R20 score: 4373

Those results look pretty much identical. It's worth noting that the CPU seemed to heat up more quickly with the Noctua than the Cryorig however. Both heated up to 83C/94C and stayed there before hitting 84C/95C near the end of the run. But the Noctua seemed to heat up to 83C/94C almost immediately.
Noise levels seem slightly lower with the Noctua as expected, although not as big of a difference as i'd hoped.

The CPU still turbos well above the stock 3.59ghz, and gaming performance doesn't seem to have been adversely affected by the higher ambient temperatures in the summer. It is still a bit worrying how hot everything gets when I load up a game though.

What's maybe the most concerning, is that the motherboard seemed to get much hotter with the NH-L9a. I wasn't really paying attention to the motherboard temperature before, but when running the test again with the Noctua, I noticed the motherboard temp display in ASUS AI Suite turn red (which I used to monitor the temps, clock etc.) as the motherboard temp reached 60C. And kept climbing all the way up to 65C by the end of the run. I did not notice it turn red before, and as it's right next to the CPU temp, I probably would have noticed if it did, so that means it stayed below 60C throughout the Cryorig C7 stress test. Seems like the smaller thermal mass is not able to move the heat away from the CPU as quickly (which I suppose might be expected), and as a result, more heat escapes through other paths, such as into the motherboard.The metal backplate of the Noctua cooler might also be contributing to the motherboard heating up more. I have no idea where that sensor is on the motherboard, the temps on heat sensitive components like VRMs might be lower than that, or they might be higher, I have no way to know.

I'm not sure how bad the heat is for the motherboard in the long run, or possibly if it's already shortened the lifespan of the components.
However, when I installed the new cooler, I noticed the motherboard was bowed in, going down in the center, as the Noctua backplate did not lay flat on the back, and I could clearly see that the entire motherboard was bent. I can't be sure if this is due to heat, but I assume it is, since it does get rather toasty here in the summer and I noticed the entire case was hot to the touch when the PC had been on for a while (not too hot to touch, but almost)
I hope it won't end up killing the motherboard, as it was a rather expensive motherboard (ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming)
I'm also a bit worried about the HDD in the front. The front of the case was also rather warm, although not as warm as the rest of it, I'm not exactly sure how tolerant HDDs are to heat but I believe it can be a killer.

I think I'll try using the Cryorig heatsink with the Noctua fan. And if the overall case, motherboard etc. temperatures are still worryingly high, I'll just remove the side panels for the summer.

I really want something equivalent to the Cooltek LP53 in performance, but with AM4 support. Are there any other coolers than the L9a (and L9i with bracket) and Cryorig C7 with AM4 support yet?

I'm also considering getting a custom side panel window made, although I have no idea what design to put on it, just that it has to have more vents than the Dan design, so the cooler gets more fresh air. I've seen the Doom inspired side panel, but has anyone else got custom side panel windows they've shown off or want to show off? I'd love some inspiration :)
Edit: I just now ran the same stress test again with the side panels off and the CPU temp stayed stable at 70C, package temp at 81C and motherboard temp at 52C. That's a lot more reasonable and tells me that a custom side panel could work great in reducing temps so it's definitely something I need to start looking into how to do.
 
Last edited:

Tician

n00b
Joined
Jan 8, 2019
Messages
9
I picked up a Noctua NH-L9a chromax.black once I saw they were available locally, as the Cryorig C7 RGB is a bit noisier than I'd like.

Did some tests before and after, and I can't say I'm impressed. It's summertime now and the temperatures inside are rather high, so it's not the best time of year to be comparing coolers, but I'd say both performed similarly.

Cryorig C7 RGB:
Ambient: 28.6C
15min run AIDA64 Stress CPU:
CPU: 84C
Package: 95C
Clock: 3.79-3.81 Ghz
Cinebench R20 score: 4231

Noctua NH-L9a:
Ambient: 28.2C
15min run AIDA64 Stress CPU:
CPU: 84c
Package: 95c
Clock: 3.79-3.82 Ghz
Cinebench R20 score: 4373

Those results look pretty much identical. It's worth noting that the CPU seemed to heat up more quickly with the Noctua than the Cryorig however. Both heated up to 83C/94C and stayed there before hitting 84C/95C near the end of the run. But the Noctua seemed to heat up to 83C/94C almost immediately.
Noise levels seem slightly lower with the Noctua as expected, although not as big of a difference as i'd hoped.

The CPU still turbos well above the stock 3.59ghz, and gaming performance doesn't seem to have been adversely affected by the higher ambient temperatures in the summer. It is still a bit worrying how hot everything gets when I load up a game though.

What's maybe the most concerning, is that the motherboard seemed to get much hotter with the NH-L9a. I wasn't really paying attention to the motherboard temperature before, but when running the test again with the Noctua, I noticed the motherboard temp display in ASUS AI Suite turn red (which I used to monitor the temps, clock etc.) as the motherboard temp reached 60C. And kept climbing all the way up to 65C by the end of the run. I did not notice it turn red before, and as it's right next to the CPU temp, I probably would have noticed if it did, so that means it stayed below 60C throughout the Cryorig C7 stress test. Seems like the smaller thermal mass is not able to move the heat away from the CPU as quickly (which I suppose might be expected), and as a result, more heat escapes through other paths, such as into the motherboard.The metal backplate of the Noctua cooler might also be contributing to the motherboard heating up more. I have no idea where that sensor is on the motherboard, the temps on heat sensitive components like VRMs might be lower than that, or they might be higher, I have no way to know.

I'm not sure how bad the heat is for the motherboard in the long run, or possibly if it's already shortened the lifespan of the components.
However, when I installed the new cooler, I noticed the motherboard was bowed in, going down in the center, as the Noctua backplate did not lay flat on the back, and I could clearly see that the entire motherboard was bent. I can't be sure if this is due to heat, but I assume it is, since it does get rather toasty here in the summer and I noticed the entire case was hot to the touch when the PC had been on for a while (not too hot to touch, but almost)
I hope it won't end up killing the motherboard, as it was a rather expensive motherboard (ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming)
I'm also a bit worried about the HDD in the front. The front of the case was also rather warm, although not as warm as the rest of it, I'm not exactly sure how tolerant HDDs are to heat but I believe it can be a killer.

I think I'll try using the Cryorig heatsink with the Noctua fan. And if the overall case, motherboard etc. temperatures are still worryingly high, I'll just remove the side panels for the summer.

I really want something equivalent to the Cooltek LP53 in performance, but with AM4 support. Are there any other coolers than the L9a (and L9i with bracket) and Cryorig C7 with AM4 support yet?

I'm also considering getting a custom side panel window made, although I have no idea what design to put on it, just that it has to have more vents than the Dan design, so the cooler gets more fresh air. I've seen the Doom inspired side panel, but has anyone else got custom side panel windows they've shown off or want to show off? I'd love some inspiration :)
Edit: I just now ran the same stress test again with the side panels off and the CPU temp stayed stable at 70C, package temp at 81C and motherboard temp at 52C. That's a lot more reasonable and tells me that a custom side panel could work great in reducing temps so it's definitely something I need to start looking into how to do.
Jdbye you need a fan duct with the L9i/a, look at the following picture from another member, you can get the CAD design for the fan duct from DAN's wenbsite and you can have any local shop 3D print it for you.
Fan ducts we’re just completed by a local printer! They used PETG.
View attachment 229292
The motherboard bending is not a good sign, remount your cooler with less tension on the screws.
As for the motherboard thermals your motherboard is one of the best ones and it can handle 65c, you can check this video out but it's a bit long:

There's a Thermalright AXP90 that performs quite well in the DAN A4 that you could look into.
 

Ca11idus

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 9, 2012
Messages
483
Story time!

I backed the original Dan Case A4. Loved it but there was no cooling that would keep my then 5820k cool enough to my liking. I didn't want to use the 545lc so I backed the Ghost S1. That came in and I got a great deal on a 6950x. I wasn't too happy with my 2070 Super temps so I kept tinkering and ended up selling the whole rig. I then got a Velka 3 and that started to shut down because it was overheating with copper ihs 8700 non-k and a Galax 2060 Super. I then found a great deal on the A4 v4.1. Got a 120mm bracket and decided to cool that gpu.
dan.jpg

Airflow!!! I have the gpu clocked at 1600 and it will boost to 1995-2005. The mem is clocked at 1900. Temps top out at 54C.
dan 2.jpg

I didn't even want to try to fit this bad boy in there so it got mounted on the desk.
dan 3.jpg

I was gentle when I dremeled out 3 bars on the bottom of the case. Also those are some 3d printed feet extensions.
dan 4.jpg

I have a bag of old noctua mounting brackets and gear. I took the rubber feet off of the motherboard bracket and stuck it underneath the hdplex and then let the velcro do the rest.
dan 5.jpg

Some cable management.
dan 6.jpg

CPU side.

Cpu temps max at around 62C with a quite profile on the nf-a9x14. Now I just need to stress test the hdplex.

This thing is so quiet that I had to keep looking at the monitor and pc to make sure it was on while I was cleaning my mess. I love it.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Ca11idus

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 9, 2012
Messages
483
Ca11idus, this is really cool! Could you share some more design details? Which 120mm bracket, AIO, power supply?
Yeah, I found the 120mm bracket on ebay. I mounted the ID Cooling Frostflow cooler with zip ties as the GALAX RTX 2060 Super uses non-standard mounting holes. The PSU is the 400w HDPLEX combo. If you look at the second and third picture you can see that I affixed the larger unit outside of the case and on to my desk.

120mm Bracket

I used a 2" clamp with rubber pads to clamp the pump to the gpu. That let me apply enough pressure to get the zip ties tight enough.
 

jb1

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
500
Yeah, I found the 120mm bracket on ebay. I mounted the ID Cooling Frostflow cooler with zip ties as the GALAX RTX 2060 Super uses non-standard mounting holes. The PSU is the 400w HDPLEX combo. If you look at the second and third picture you can see that I affixed the larger unit outside of the case and on to my desk.

120mm Bracket

I used a 2" clamp with rubber pads to clamp the pump to the gpu. That let me apply enough pressure to get the zip ties tight enough.
Cool! How did you mount the 120mm bracket to the case? Have always wanted to try something like this in the A4... this bracket and the 400w HDPLEX, and your effort make it seem like it can be a reality!
 

jb1

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
500
Cool! How did you mount the 120mm bracket to the case? Have always wanted to try something like this in the A4... this bracket and the 400w HDPLEX, and your effort make it seem like it can be a reality!
Ah, I see that it's for version 4... I've got version 1 of the A4. Might need to drill some holes.
 

Ca11idus

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 9, 2012
Messages
483
I have a 3d printed fan duct for the NH-L9i/a for anyone that might need it. Just cover shipping.
 
Top