DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

Jdbye

n00b
Joined
Feb 11, 2019
Messages
13
I hav



I have the same setup as yours and optimal calbe lenghts for me are as follows:
  • ATX 24pin cable - 160 mm
  • EPS 8pin/2x4pin cable - 260 mm (300mm if you want to route behind the mobo sounds about right)
  • GPU 6+2pin cable - 350 mm (routed throught the front panel)
  • SATA 5pin cable - 150 mm
Hope this helps. Just wondering what temps are you getting on your ssd drive under the stock Asus heatsink.
I answered you in the other thread a while ago ;) https://hardforum.com/threads/dan-a4-sfx-post-your-build-here-thread.1924512/page-2

Thanks for the info. Yeah, just checked the slack on the stock PCIe cables. There is not much slack when routed below the front HDD, max 10 cm. The softer ModFlex cables should give me a couple extra cm to work with though as they should do tighter bends. I don't even really need to get custom PCIe cables, they're just nicer looking and easier to work with. So I may order 300 mm or 350 mm, not sure yet. As for the SATA power I am sure 100 mm will work as the stock cable is 100 mm to the first plug. Any excess length between the HDD and PSU is just going to get in the way of the intake fan.

Edit: I think I will go with 350 mm for the PCIe cables since it's what you used. There does not seem to be as much as 10 cm of slack on them so I don't want to risk getting cables that are too short in case the more pliable ModFlex cables don't give me as much extra usable length as I hoped. There is a lot of slack on the EPS power cable currently, easily more than 15 cm, so I think I will go with 250 mm for the EPS cable and it should still be enough length to weave behind and underneath the motherboard. The PCIe cable is really the one thing I've been really unsure about, so I'm glad I didn't go ahead and order 250 or 300 mm.

Edit2: Made my CableMod order. Thanks for the help.
Ended up with the following lengths:
ATX: 150 mm
EPS: 250 mm
PCIe 6+2/6 pin: 350 mm
SATA power: 100 mm

And also ordered the 30 cm SATA data cable, and some cable combs to make it all look pretty.
Used the 20% coupon code that came with the ASUS motherboard :)
It will take a while to ship (at least 5 weeks), as they are currently doing yearly warehouse maintenance and aren't processing orders. But got $10 off shipping, so that's not too bad.
 
Last edited:

Kozi

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
9
I answered you in the other thread a while ago ;) https://hardforum.com/threads/dan-a4-sfx-post-your-build-here-thread.1924512/page-2

Thanks for the info. Yeah, just checked the slack on the stock PCIe cables. There is not much slack when routed below the front HDD, max 10 cm. The softer ModFlex cables should give me a couple extra cm to work with though as they should do tighter bends. I don't even really need to get custom PCIe cables, they're just nicer looking and easier to work with. So I may order 300 mm or 350 mm, not sure yet. As for the SATA power I am sure 100 mm will work as the stock cable is 100 mm to the first plug. Any excess length between the HDD and PSU is just going to get in the way of the intake fan.

Edit: I think I will go with 350 mm for the PCIe cables since it's what you used. There does not seem to be as much as 10 cm of slack on them so I don't want to risk getting cables that are too short in case the more pliable ModFlex cables don't give me as much extra usable length as I hoped. There is a lot of slack on the EPS power cable currently, easily more than 15 cm, so I think I will go with 250 mm for the EPS cable and it should still be enough length to weave behind and underneath the motherboard. The PCIe cable is really the one thing I've been really unsure about, so I'm glad I didn't go ahead and order 250 or 300 mm.

Edit2: Made my CableMod order. Thanks for the help.
Ended up with the following lengths:
ATX: 150 mm
EPS: 250 mm
PCIe 6+2/6 pin: 350 mm
SATA power: 100 mm

And also ordered the 30 cm SATA data cable, and some cable combs to make it all look pretty.
Used the 20% coupon code that came with the ASUS motherboard :)
It will take a while to ship (at least 5 weeks), as they are currently doing yearly warehouse maintenance and aren't processing orders. But got $10 off shipping, so that's not too bad.
I think you should be fine with the cable lenghts you ordered. Also thanks for the reply about the SSD temps. I learned that the best way to get the temps down is to use high quality thermal pad like Gelid Extreme or Ultimate which have high heat conductivity. Ultimate has 15W/mK so it's right among the best available on the market right now (apart from much more expensive Alphacool 17W/mk.) You can also use them on your intel SSD behing the mobo so they make contact with the metal plate behind. I read on some forum that one guy had very good results by doing it and the temps on the ssd dropped significantly. It is important though to choose the right thickness as they do not recommend squeezing them more than 50% of their original thickness, due to loss of performance. They come in various sizes and thickness (even up to 3mm in extreme version).

I haven't installed the SSD yet but I am planning to replace the stock Asus heatsink with the one of these two:

1. Sabrent M.2 2280 SSD Rocket Heatsink (SB-HTSK)
2. M.2 Cooler Nvme SSD Heatsink with 20mm M2 SSD Fan Cooler



Got both on Amazon and hope at least one will fit without doing any mods to the board. Combined with Gelid Ultimate this should work well to keep SSD temps well below their throttling temps.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Jdbye

n00b
Joined
Feb 11, 2019
Messages
13
I think you should be fine with the cable lenghts you ordered. Also thanks for the reply about the SSD temps. I learned that the best way to get the temps down is to use high quality thermal pad like Gelid Extreme or Ultimate which have high heat conductivity. Ultimate has 15W/mK so it's right among the best available on the market right now (apart from much more expensive Alphacool 17W/mk.) You can also use them on your intel SSD behing the mobo so they make contact with the metal plate behind. I read on some forum that one guy had very good results by doing it and the temps on the ssd dropped significantly. It is important though to choose the right thickness as they do not recommend squeezing them more than 50% of their original thickness, due to loss of performance. They come in various sizes and thickness (even up to 3mm in extreme version).

I haven't installed the SSD yet but I am planning to replace the stock Asus heatsink with the one of these two:

1. Sabrent M.2 2280 SSD Rocket Heatsink (SB-HTSK)
2. M.2 Cooler Nvme SSD Heatsink with 20mm M2 SSD Fan Cooler



Got both on Amazon and hope at least one will fit without doing any mods to the board. Combined with Gelid Ultimate this should work well to keep SSD temps well below their throttling temps.
I don't think you need to replace the heatsink. The front SSD never gets warm enough to throttle in my experience. But if you can't return them, I guess you may as well use them.

I can't use thermal pads onto the metal plate because the PCIe riser cable is routed behind there. I could try anyway, but I don't know if it would cause issues with the PCIe riser cable, or if the thermal pad would even make good enough thermal contact through the riser cable and onto the metal case to help at all.
I was thinking of using thermal pads between the rear m.2 and motherboard and using the motherboard as a heatsink. The gap should be 2.5mm by measuring the standoff, I can get a 2mm and 1mm thermal pad and stack them (couldn't find a 3mm in my country). Obviously it won't be as effective at thermal transfer as metal, but it doesn't need to reduce the temps that much, as long as it prevents the heavy throttling during medium to large file transfers (anything more than a few GB)
Plus the GPU is the biggest heat producer in my system so that metal plate is likely to get warm during gaming. It might even make the issue worse using it as a heatsink for the m.2. And what little air flow there is around the front of the rear m.2 would be completely blocked.

I don't think they sell those brands here though. Buying online the shipping cost would quickly become more expensive than the product itself, plus I would have to pay import tax and fees, suddenly the cost for some thermal pads becomes as much as the SSD itself...
I would have to stack 3 layers of Gelid Ultimate to get it thick enough, hopefully that would not affect the thermal conductivity too much. If I can actually find it for a reasonable price with shipping. Newegg and eBay don't have it, and I don't know where else to look that has international shipping. Even Amazon doesn't have it. Gelid GP-Extreme is much easier to find though, and is sold in 3mm thickness, so that may be a better option.

Edit: I ordered this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gelid-GP-Extreme-Thermal-Pad-3mm-Thick/233377173883
Shipping is reasonable, it should be the right thickness, and I don't have to stack up multiple layers or buy multiple of them to cover the entire SSD. I only need a long narrow strip but the ones I find tend to be square/rectangular, and not long enough, or they aren't made in 3mm thickness, so I have to buy multiple of them, which ends up being more expensive. It's a bit expensive just for some TIM for a single purpose, but what can you do. If it solves the problem, it's worth it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Kozi
like this

Kozi

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
9
I don't think you need to replace the heatsink. The front SSD never gets warm enough to throttle in my experience. But if you can't return them, I guess you may as well use them.

I can't use thermal pads onto the metal plate because the PCIe riser cable is routed behind there. I could try anyway, but I don't know if it would cause issues with the PCIe riser cable, or if the thermal pad would even make good enough thermal contact through the riser cable and onto the metal case to help at all.
I was thinking of using thermal pads between the rear m.2 and motherboard and using the motherboard as a heatsink. The gap should be 2.5mm by measuring the standoff, I can get a 2mm and 1mm thermal pad and stack them (couldn't find a 3mm in my country). Obviously it won't be as effective at thermal transfer as metal, but it doesn't need to reduce the temps that much, as long as it prevents the heavy throttling during medium to large file transfers (anything more than a few GB)
Plus the GPU is the biggest heat producer in my system so that metal plate is likely to get warm during gaming. It might even make the issue worse using it as a heatsink for the m.2. And what little air flow there is around the front of the rear m.2 would be completely blocked.

I don't think they sell those brands here though. Buying online the shipping cost would quickly become more expensive than the product itself, plus I would have to pay import tax and fees, suddenly the cost for some thermal pads becomes as much as the SSD itself...
I would have to stack 3 layers of Gelid Ultimate to get it thick enough, hopefully that would not affect the thermal conductivity too much. If I can actually find it for a reasonable price with shipping. Newegg and eBay don't have it, and I don't know where else to look that has international shipping. Even Amazon doesn't have it. Gelid GP-Extreme is much easier to find though, and is sold in 3mm thickness, so that may be a better option.
I have Asetek 645 and Ryzen 3700x plus stock Nvidia 2080 super. I think I will need to replace the heatsink :) which country are you from?
 

Kozi

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
9
Y
I don't think you need to replace the heatsink. The front SSD never gets warm enough to throttle in my experience. But if you can't return them, I guess you may as well use them.

I can't use thermal pads onto the metal plate because the PCIe riser cable is routed behind there. I could try anyway, but I don't know if it would cause issues with the PCIe riser cable, or if the thermal pad would even make good enough thermal contact through the riser cable and onto the metal case to help at all.
I was thinking of using thermal pads between the rear m.2 and motherboard and using the motherboard as a heatsink. The gap should be 2.5mm by measuring the standoff, I can get a 2mm and 1mm thermal pad and stack them (couldn't find a 3mm in my country). Obviously it won't be as effective at thermal transfer as metal, but it doesn't need to reduce the temps that much, as long as it prevents the heavy throttling during medium to large file transfers (anything more than a few GB)
Plus the GPU is the biggest heat producer in my system so that metal plate is likely to get warm during gaming. It might even make the issue worse using it as a heatsink for the m.2. And what little air flow there is around the front of the rear m.2 would be completely blocked.

I don't think they sell those brands here though. Buying online the shipping cost would quickly become more expensive than the product itself, plus I would have to pay import tax and fees, suddenly the cost for some thermal pads becomes as much as the SSD itself...
I would have to stack 3 layers of Gelid Ultimate to get it thick enough, hopefully that would not affect the thermal conductivity too much. If I can actually find it for a reasonable price with shipping. Newegg and eBay don't have it, and I don't know where else to look that has international shipping. Even Amazon doesn't have it. Gelid GP-Extreme is much easier to find though, and is sold in 3mm thickness, so that may be a better option.

Edit: I ordered this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gelid-GP-Extreme-Thermal-Pad-3mm-Thick/233377173883
Shipping is reasonable, it should be the right thickness, and I don't have to stack up multiple layers or buy multiple of them to cover the entire SSD. I only need a long narrow strip but the ones I find tend to be square/rectangular, and not long enough, or they aren't made in 3mm thickness, so I have to buy multiple of them, which ends up being more expensive. It's a bit expensive just for some TIM for a single purpose, but what can you do. If it solves the problem, it's worth it.
You can cut it to desired shape/lenght. Also no need to cover the whole ssd surface, just the heat generating components.
 

machozs

n00b
Joined
Feb 7, 2020
Messages
1
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 v3 @ 3.4GHz
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 7970 3GB
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB DDR3 1600 CL9
SSD: Corsair Force 3 120GB (SATA) / Corsair Force MP510 960GB (NVMe)
HDD: Seagate BarraCuda 2TB (SATA)
MB: Asus ROG Maximus VII Impact Z97
SUPPLY: Corsair SF750
CASE: DAN Cases A4-SFX V4.1
COOLER: Noctua NH-L9i chromax

68-72°C 2000rpm cpu fan + 1500rpm botom fan (only NF-A9x14)
65-69°C 1500rpm cpu fan + 800rpm bottom fan (+92mm fan velocity stack)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3606217
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Jdbye

n00b
Joined
Feb 11, 2019
Messages
13
Y


You can cut it to desired shape/lenght. Also no need to cover the whole ssd surface, just the heat generating components.
Thanks for the suggestion on what to get, I just installed the Gelid Extreme underneath the SSD and did the same copy test as before. First time the speed went down to 3MB/s suddenly, and I'm not sure why, as the temps were nowhere near the thermal limit, but it did recover within a few seconds and go up 130-150 MB/s and stay there (SLC cache probably filled up at this point so that may have something to do with why the speed dropped so suddenly - maybe it took a few seconds to shuffle some data around before continuing) I deleted the files and ran TRIM just to make sure the files were not still there occupying the SLC cache. I did the copy test a few more times and speeds were stable at 500-600 MB/s, until it dropped down to 130-150MB/s, this happened at around the halfway point (of a 60GB transfer of large files) in all of the runs, likely due to the SLC cache filling up. Temps on the 660p barely increased up from the motherboard temp of 44C, reaching 53C in the second run and slowly climbing up by half a degree in each consecutive run. 6 runs in and it was at 56 C. Before, the temp would get up to above 70C and throttle in the first run, and the throttling would get much worse in the second run, and because the SSD takes so long to cool down when it's being suffocated, there was no point in doing more than 3 runs as it would take ages due to throttling down below 7MB/s like crazy. That's a crazy improvement, way more than I hoped for. It might help that the front m.2 heatsink is opposite the rear m.2 slot, so it helps in transferring away the heat coming through the motherboard PCB.

The 660p does not seem like a very hot running SSD now, as the 970 Evo Plus under the m.2 heatsink gets to 61 C in the first copy run, copying the same exact files. After 4 runs it's at 67C. I have heard that the 970 Evo needs some help with cooling and will have throttling issues without a m.2 heatsink, so that makes sense. I just didn't know how much heat the 660p produced compared to that. I thought that because it's QLC memory which is more complex to read from and write to, it might be worse than the Samsung.



So bottom line, using the motherboard as a heatsink for the rear m.2 SSD with a thermal pad works great. Gelid GP Extreme with 3 mm thickness was the perfect choice for me as the m.2 standoff is 2.5 mm.
I can definitely recommend this for anyone wanting to cool down their rear m.2 drive better, or who avoided using the rear m.2 slot due to heat concerns.
You should measure your own m.2 standoff with a caliper, and get a thermal pad that is slightly thicker, like I did (or you can also stack two thinner ones)
The Gelid GP Extreme (12 W/mK), GP Ultimate (15 W/mK), or Alphacool Eisschicht (17 W/mK), as Kozi recommended, are probably all great, but only the Gelid GP Extreme is sold in 3 mm thickness.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Kozi
like this

oblongpolygon

Weaksauce
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
109
One very quick question...

Who makes the shorter PSU cables which I think I'm seeing in these builds?

Maybe there is more than one brand out there.

I'm using the standard cables that came with my PSU, but shorter cables would be ideal, reducing cable clutter.
 

Jdbye

n00b
Joined
Feb 11, 2019
Messages
13
I made a mess. 3700x. 2080 Super. 43 km cable. Shorter ones on the way.

View attachment 225276View attachment 225277View attachment 225278
Very similar to my setup. Same CPU/GPU, looks like the same motherboard also. With a few hours of effort trying out different cable routings, you can get it tidy and mostly hidden away, except for the thick ATX cable. Not much you can do about that one, without custom cabling. I have some on order as well but they are going to take a while, with the delays due to Coronavirus.
One very quick question...

Who makes the shorter PSU cables which I think I'm seeing in these builds?

Maybe there is more than one brand out there.

I'm using the standard cables that came with my PSU, but shorter cables would be ideal, reducing cable clutter.
Some make their own custom cables. That way you can get the exact length needed and even have different lengths for the individual wires in the ATX cable, so that it bends neatly. It looks like pslate also makes cables like that with different length wires, but they're sold out. Also, no sense wires and "The sense wires are required for stable operation for the Corsair SF Platinum" which is the one I have (SF600 80+ Platinum), so check which one you have before buying.
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
Very similar to my setup. Same CPU/GPU, looks like the same motherboard also. With a few hours of effort trying out different cable routings, you can get it tidy and mostly hidden away, except for the thick ATX cable. Not much you can do about that one, without custom cabling. I have some on order as well but they are going to take a while, with the delays due to Coronavirus.

Some make their own custom cables. That way you can get the exact length needed and even have different lengths for the individual wires in the ATX cable, so that it bends neatly. It looks like pslate also makes cables like that with different length wires, but they're sold out. Also, no sense wires and "The sense wires are required for stable operation for the Corsair SF Platinum" which is the one I have (SF600 80+ Platinum), so check which one you have before buying.
pslate will open up orders again on Mar 2 and you can get the 24 pin both with and without the sense wire.
 

Zeppo

n00b
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
Messages
5
Some shorter cabers in there now, especially the 24 being shorter cleans up nicely, made it so I could turn the 25 mm Noctua under there around so now it exhausts, the one under the MB remains intake, the riser is to close by to turn that around, I need something to cover the fan, maybe I will disconnect it, I don't know how much it is doing. Used Optimum Tech to undervolt the 2080, system runs nice and cool now, some fan noise but some I can live with. Installed a fan duct as well, still, the top and the sides do get quite hot, I do hope thats normal. Around 50 on the C and 60 on the G is good for me though, all in all this case impressed me, I thought I would like the Louqe better but its almost a tossup.
 
Last edited:

mattxx88

n00b
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
5
Hi all, i'm a new owner of this case and i'm here cause of it :)

yesterday i received mine with his Asetek 645lt AIO and i run into a issue, the locking ring of the pump simply doesn't fit
another thing i am attempting to, is to direct die cooling mine 8086k, but i'll need shorter standoffs to make a better contact die/cooler plate
i'll keep you update
 

Kozi

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
9
Hi all, i'm a new owner of this case and i'm here cause of it :)

yesterday i received mine with his Asetek 645lt AIO and i run into a issue, the locking ring of the pump simply doesn't fit
another thing i am attempting to, is to direct die cooling mine 8086k, but i'll need shorter standoffs to make a better contact die/cooler plate
i'll keep you update
The locking ring is from previous pump model and it doesnt fit the current 645lt. I have no idea why Asetek puts it there with the new pump.
 

mattxx88

n00b
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
5
The locking ring is from previous pump model and it doesnt fit the current 645lt. I have no idea why Asetek puts it there with the new pump.
i lost 1h last night on this :mad:
it's the first aio i own and i just can't stand them already
 

Kozi

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
9
i lost 1h last night on this :mad:
it's the first aio i own and i just can't stand them already
Yeah me too, once you run it don't be surprised with the weird clicking noises. Its the air in the system. Turn your case upside down few times to allow the air to travel to radiator and run the system through some stress testing soft like OCCT for an hour or so. After some time the noise should disappear.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
7
Ahoy everyone,

I discovered this forum shortly after purchasing my v4.1 case and it has been an invaluable resource for my build. I just recently received my case, so I thought I would join the forum formally and post my first photo.

Here is a look at the final parts list:
  • AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor
  • Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
  • ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Motherboard
  • Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  • Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  • EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB GAMING Video Card
  • Corsair SF 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply

I plan to post some more photos once my parts arrive and the actual building has begun.

Sláinte.
IMG_2572.JPG
 
Last edited:

Kozi

n00b
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
9
Ahoy everyone,

I discovered this forum shortly after purchasing my v4.1 case and it has been an invaluable resource for my build. I just recently received my case, so I thought I would join the forum formally and post my first photo.

Here is a look at the final parts list:
  • AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor
  • Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
  • ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Motherboard
  • Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  • Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  • EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB GAMING Video Card
  • Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply

I plan to post some more photos once my parts arrive and the actual building has begun.

Sláinte.
View attachment 228150
As bad as it is, I would seriously consider Asetek AIO. Ryzen 3700x gets really hot under load.
 
Last edited:

Zeppo

n00b
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
Messages
5
As bad as it is, I would seriously consider Asetek AIO. Ryzen 3700x gets really hot under load.
Or print the fan duct and install some bottom fans, I run decent temps, default clock. Also, short cables! It is quieter than my h210i with an x52, gpu has quit restricted airflow in thatun.
 

jeremyshaw

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
12,365
Or print the fan duct and install some bottom fans, I run decent temps, default clock. Also, short cables! It is quieter than my h210i with an x52, gpu has quit restricted airflow in thatun.
I agree, a fan duct makes a decent amount of difference in this case (with the Noctua cooler), especially under longer loads.
 

Zeppo

n00b
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
Messages
5
I agree, a fan duct makes a decent amount of difference in this case (with the Noctua cooler), especially under longer loads.
noctua cooler, of course, that goes without saying almost, thems good stuffs! Most annoying in my case is the ramp up and down of the fans. Needs some tweaking still. Thinking about taping of the side panel a bit around the duct, either that or play sum BL3
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
7
I’m having the fan duct printed and I did purchase an extra fan. Would the fan below the motherboard be an exhaust or pull fan?

I should also mention that I’m waiting for my order of custom power cables from pslate.
 

Zeppo

n00b
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
Messages
5
I’m having the fan duct printed and I did purchase an extra fan. Would the fan below the motherboard be an exhaust or pull fan?

I should also mention that I’m waiting for my order of custom power cables from pslate.
it is very very thight under the mobo, with the riser and all pull is easier with the integrated grill
 

mattxx88

n00b
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
5
Mine build is almost done
Z390 strix mitx
i7 8086k delid (no direct die, i runned in many issues attempting direct die, cpu die is not thick enough to make a good contact with Asetek AIO)
ddr4 Patriot 4400c19

what i need to do now is: custom cables and looking for a shorter ram, cause this patriot makes the side panel bend over too much over the aio tubes
i already ordered from MDPCX cables and plugs to make my own custom shorter cables, gotta find a used short gtx 1080ti now and then my office pc is really ready

aTGKpib9_t.jpg


any advice regarding shorter rams?
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
7
My chromax Noctua fan arrived last night! I was looking at the screws to measure them for comparison as I assumed I would need new ones for the fan duct, but I was wrong. Noctua has the correct screws in an accompanying bag.

749A2A41-BCC9-43C4-9CF0-9C8C396BCDD7.jpeg
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2020
Messages
7
I’ve finally begun building! My PSU cable from pslate is due to arrive Monday, so I thought I’d complete the build with the Corsair one in the meantime.

Does anyone have any advice for BIOS settings for the 3700x? I’m fairly new to tinkering with the software side, so any advice would be most appreciated.
 

Attachments

sdfewfe

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
92
Has anyone here mounted their A4-SFX behind a VESA-mounted TV or monitor? If so, how? I've found a number of VESA mount brackets for game consoles, Apple TVs and similar equipment, including some "universal" ones, but nothing that would fit something as "big" as the A4 or similar sized cases. There are a few VESA mount "shelves" that would do the trick, but I wonder if there's a better solution.
 

blitzhex

n00b
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
35
A vertical Dan-a4 with the same dimensions would be amazing. The best sff form factor case and the smallest footprint. :)
 

jeremyshaw

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
12,365
A vertical Dan-a4 with the same dimensions would be amazing. The best sff form factor case and the smallest footprint. :)
The Velka 5 and the upcoming Sliger SV540 might be in that vein. Both do have my interest.

Both are OOS while the creator is making a revision for the former and the latter is still TBA.
 
Top