DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

Chris4SFX

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Jun 16, 2018
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Yep, 12V. Some of the smaller ones support 5V as well, even via USB I believe. This one needs 12V up to 3A. Since I don't want to carry around an extra power brick, I soldered a DC jack onto what used to be a SATA power cable, and routed that out of the case...

Any chance you could upload pics of that? Very nice idea.
The need of an extra power brick definitely drives me away from this type of monitors...

I have done some research on portable monitors (all usb-powered) for quite a while, as a portable setup is a must for me too!

These are some of the monitors i came around so far:

- GeChic 1503H/I: 15.3 inch, 1080p, videosignal via HDMI, seemingly good panel, "I" version is touch, "H" isn't. Biggest disadvantage: Very pricey (around 350-450 Euro)
- Asus Zenscreen mb16ac: 15.3 inch, Very elegant design, USB-C (one cable to rule them all) but very dim (200 nits) ("...and in the darkness bind them" :D ) and input lag.
- Magedok 4k: 15.6 inch, UHD, 100% Adobe RGB, videosignal via HDMI. Like on gechic, it's very pricey. So nothing for me
- Elecrow AUS13310P: 13.3 inch, 1080p, 300 nits, USB-C for power and optional video (otherwise hdmi), fairly payable

The last one is my favorite so far, although i would definitely prefer 15.6 inch over the 13.3. Apart from that it seems to be a pretty good deal. Hopefully it doesn't suffer of input lag on USB-C (like the asus zenscreen), but it would be ok to use HDMI for video, too.
Don't really get it why a world famous brand like Asus doesn't get over 200 nits on usb power, while a no name product like the elecrow or the gechic gets 300 nits... o_O

If anyone knows of a bright (300 nits or better) 15.6 inch 1080p monitor (usb powered) under 200-250 Euro, any hint would be highly appreciated!! :D
 

Alaberti

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Jan 21, 2018
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85
has anybody managed to fit/mount a 1U flex PSU in the Dan a4sfx? i've seen these and have been considering trying to fit one:

http://www.geeekstore.com/shop/custom-flex-atx-modular-psu
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...XriCc&id=550586245256&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail

would be ideal for me as it means i can fit a zotac 1080 ti in instead of having to use the 1080 mini. any thoughts?

PSA: Turns out building a PC in a hotel late at night, leaving parts everywhere and forgetting to clean up can lead to...misunderstandings about what you're actually doing.

I managed to electrical tape the choke back in place. You can't see it in the b-roll below, which makes me feel better.

Ran Prime 95 for 30 minutes, with my stock R7 1800X:
Temps: 33C idle / 74C load

Final(?) notes:
- I needed to turn XFR off on the CPU and undervolt the GPU because the dell power brick I'm using to supply my HDPlex with power cuts out around 300 watts. I'm having a custom 450w brick made to solve that problem. https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...bto-psus-are-now-available-direct-order.1983/
- Mounting the HDPlex (properly) - you can only fit 3 standoffs if you have a SSD mounted in the front of the case, but so far I've had no issues from it - even with it sandwiched between the GPU and AIO exhaust. What a champ!
- For those who want to use the HDPlex PSU, I recommend a 65w CPU/APU and probably nothing bigger than a 1070/equivalent if you want the most plug and play experience. Otherwise, the power brick will be the limiting component.
- For those interested in the 120mm NZXT AIO, the 15mm noctua fan is more than sufficient and, to no one's great surprise, it's very quiet. Still, I'd recommend using Dan's guidance on his site for supported coolers, especially if a 25mm fan is what you want/need. https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4_spec.html

Hope this helps anyone interested in the exciting new options opened up by the v3. Looking forward to playing in dondan's next endeavor.

View attachment 79829 View attachment 79828 View attachment 79830 View attachment 79824 View attachment 79831

* I guess the keyboard business is a thing now? HAVIT TKL HV-KB390L

That was my build with the HDPlex PSU tenrose
 

Raptor5150

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Jul 17, 2018
Messages
20
Any chance you could upload pics of that? Very nice idea.
The need of an extra power brick definitely drives me away from this type of monitors...

I have done some research on portable monitors (all usb-powered) for quite a while, as a portable setup is a must for me too!

These are some of the monitors i came around so far:

- GeChic 1503H/I: 15.3 inch, 1080p, videosignal via HDMI, seemingly good panel, "I" version is touch, "H" isn't. Biggest disadvantage: Very pricey (around 350-450 Euro)
- Asus Zenscreen mb16ac: 15.3 inch, Very elegant design, USB-C (one cable to rule them all) but very dim (200 nits) ("...and in the darkness bind them" :D ) and input lag.
- Magedok 4k: 15.6 inch, UHD, 100% Adobe RGB, videosignal via HDMI. Like on gechic, it's very pricey. So nothing for me
- Elecrow AUS13310P: 13.3 inch, 1080p, 300 nits, USB-C for power and optional video (otherwise hdmi), fairly payable

The last one is my favorite so far, although i would definitely prefer 15.6 inch over the 13.3. Apart from that it seems to be a pretty good deal. Hopefully it doesn't suffer of input lag on USB-C (like the asus zenscreen), but it would be ok to use HDMI for video, too.
Don't really get it why a world famous brand like Asus doesn't get over 200 nits on usb power, while a no name product like the elecrow or the gechic gets 300 nits... o_O

If anyone knows of a bright (300 nits or better) 15.6 inch 1080p monitor (usb powered) under 200-250 Euro, any hint would be highly appreciated!! :D


Ill probably nab this one https://www.amazon.com/SIBOLAN-S16b-15-6inch-3840×2160-MiniDisplay/dp/B07DJ59PLQ

little lighter on my wallet and it will still fit in my 15 inch laptop backpack. 2 extra inches and type C arnt really worth 250 extra lol.

This is a great middle ground and I still can take the setup anywhere.

Now i have a quick question especially if the mighty dondan can chime in..

2700x only for gaming purposes (dont want intel this gen) you think I should just go 545LC or should I go C7 CU? I dont own a window kit so womp womp.

V3 case.
 

sdfewfe

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Dec 16, 2015
Messages
92
Any chance you could upload pics of that? Very nice idea.
The need of an extra power brick definitely drives me away from this type of monitors...

I have done some research on portable monitors (all usb-powered) for quite a while, as a portable setup is a must for me too!

These are some of the monitors i came around so far:

- GeChic 1503H/I: 15.3 inch, 1080p, videosignal via HDMI, seemingly good panel, "I" version is touch, "H" isn't. Biggest disadvantage: Very pricey (around 350-450 Euro)
- Asus Zenscreen mb16ac: 15.3 inch, Very elegant design, USB-C (one cable to rule them all) but very dim (200 nits) ("...and in the darkness bind them" :D ) and input lag.
- Magedok 4k: 15.6 inch, UHD, 100% Adobe RGB, videosignal via HDMI. Like on gechic, it's very pricey. So nothing for me
- Elecrow AUS13310P: 13.3 inch, 1080p, 300 nits, USB-C for power and optional video (otherwise hdmi), fairly payable

The last one is my favorite so far, although i would definitely prefer 15.6 inch over the 13.3. Apart from that it seems to be a pretty good deal. Hopefully it doesn't suffer of input lag on USB-C (like the asus zenscreen), but it would be ok to use HDMI for video, too.
Don't really get it why a world famous brand like Asus doesn't get over 200 nits on usb power, while a no name product like the elecrow or the gechic gets 300 nits... o_O

If anyone knows of a bright (300 nits or better) 15.6 inch 1080p monitor (usb powered) under 200-250 Euro, any hint would be highly appreciated!! :D


I mean, right now it's literally just the plug hanging out the back of the case, not much to look at. ;) I haven't gotten around to drilling a hole to fix it to the case properly.

Yep, there's not anything comparable from Western brands, as far as I am aware of. The same Taobao seller has a few options that fit what you're looking for though, e.g.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c-s.w4002-18504435222.26.4674294d3DVaTA&id=569816060886
or
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c-s.w4002-18504435222.35.4674294d3DVaTA&id=534680485373
or
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c-s.w4002-18504435222.38.4674294d3DVaTA&id=565698974027

It looks like all of them can be powered either by micro USB, or USB-C. All under 200 euros.

The no-names getting 300 nits on USB and Asus only 200 might be because the no-names draw more power than the USB spec allows?



Ill probably nab this one https://www.amazon.com/SIBOLAN-S16b-15-6inch-3840×2160-MiniDisplay/dp/B07DJ59PLQ

little lighter on my wallet and it will still fit in my 15 inch laptop backpack. 2 extra inches and type C arnt really worth 250 extra lol.
Just FYI, this looks to be a branded version of the ones on Taobao. I think when I got mine the had a 15" screen that looked exactly like that one, minus the logo on the front. You can get the current ones on Taobao for about 225 USD, if you want minimise your expense further.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c-s.w4002-18504435222.34.38b62f3fdTCpln&id=568059430529


Just to be clear, I have no affiliation with that brand or seller; just wanting to share to help, as it took me quite a while to find these myself.
 

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Raptor5150

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I mean, right now it's literally just the plug hanging out the back of the case, not much to look at. ;) I haven't gotten around to drilling a hole to fix it to the case properly.


Just FYI, this looks to be a branded version of the ones on Taobao. I think when I got mine the had a 15" screen that looked exactly like that one, minus the logo on the front. You can get the current ones on Taobao for about 225 USD, if you want minimise your expense further.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c-s.w4002-18504435222.34.38b62f3fdTCpln&id=568059430529


Just to be clear, I have no affiliation with that brand or seller; just wanting to share to help, as it took me quite a while to find these myself.


Since im superbuy and taobao illiterate could you please link this to me on superbuy if it is on there? I couldnt find it.

Or how do you buy from TaoBao?

I would use my OLED Alienware 13 display but I need a eDP 4k external controller card and I dont know how to start with building the connector needed with that thing.
 

Chris4SFX

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Messages
22
sdfewfe : Thanks nevertheless for the picture ;) And on the inside?

Wow! Great findings, although i only understand a few letters and numbers :D Thanks!

But even i would figure out how to order on this website, i am unsure about ordering a monitor directly from china.
If something's broken or issues appear you have to deal with a company on the other side of the world...

Unfortunately i don't see a brand or Product No. to do some research and maybe to find it on amazon or other popular onlineshops...

Over on aliexpress there can be found several of these monitors, too. But again mostly without findable brands. Additionally the photos and especially partly contradictory specifications don't seem trustworthy to me...


The no-names getting 300 nits on USB and Asus only 200 might be because the no-names draw more power than the USB spec allows?

Didn't know that USB could deliver more power than the specs allow? Or the panel itself is specified with 300 nits, but it cannot be achieved fully through USB? Would be mad for monitors with USB as only power connection though...
 

sdfewfe

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Since im superbuy and taobao illiterate could you please link this to me on superbuy if it is on there? I couldnt find it.

Or how do you buy from TaoBao?

I would use my OLED Alienware 13 display but I need a eDP 4k external controller card and I dont know how to start with building the connector needed with that thing.

I asked a Chinese friend to bring it back on a recent trip home. ;) I haven't used superbuy, but it looks like you can just copy-paste the taobao URL into the search field on superbuy:
https://www.superbuy.com/en/page/bu...18504435222.34.38b62f3fdTCpln&id=568059430529

I have looked into using a panel plus eDP controller as well, but it looks like none of that is as standardised as the "eDP" name makes it sound. I gave up on that too.
 

sdfewfe

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Messages
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sdfewfe : Thanks nevertheless for the picture ;) And on the inside?

Wow! Great findings, although i only understand a few letters and numbers :D Thanks!

But even i would figure out how to order on this website, i am unsure about ordering a monitor directly from china.
If something's broken or issues appear you have to deal with a company on the other side of the world...

Unfortunately i don't see a brand or Product No. to do some research and maybe to find it on amazon or other popular onlineshops...

Over on aliexpress there can be found several of these monitors, too. But again mostly without findable brands. Additionally the photos and especially partly contradictory specifications don't seem trustworthy to me...




Didn't know that USB could deliver more power than the specs allow? Or the panel itself is specified with 300 nits, but it cannot be achieved fully through USB? Would be mad for monitors with USB as only power connection though...

Not much more interesting on the inside, I think, but there you go. I was wrong - it's a molex cable, not SATA power. Same principle either way: Find 12V and GND wires, cut and strip them, and solder onto a DC jack of your choice. Then solder appropriate DC plugs onto an appropriate cable to go from the computer to the screen.

Use google translate! In Chrome you can do it right inside the browser. The writing inside the pictures won't translate, obviously, but the text should give enough of an idea of what's going on. The screen shows an "intehill" logo on power on, but there isn't much to be found on that brand. Mine has model number Intehill HS-173KP, if that helps. And yes, of course - don't expect customer support to be straightforward. I can recommend finding a Chinese friend to assist. I was confused by some of the photos and specs as well, but can confirm that the screen I received is in line with most of the information on the product page. If it seems to you that the photos show two completely different kinds of OSD menu, then you should know that one of those is actually a Playstation menu, not the screen's OSD menu. Took me a while to figure that one out, having never seen a PS menu before... ;)

Legacy USB spec is 500mA at 5V for 2.5W, so not nearly enough power for most screens. I think most USB ports will deliver more current than that. But drawing more current than a port can handle would either shut down the port or computer, or if the port doesn't have overcurrent protection could damage the computer. So a name-brand should really want to avoid going out of spec. Some older USB hard drives used two USB plugs for that reason, to get enough current within USB spec.
 

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Chris4SFX

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Thanks alot for your detailed answer!

Good idea with chrome (usally i use FF).
Main prob of some of these pages, for example aliexpress, is that specs like "contrast ratio" or "brightness" are several times on the pages, at first place with 400:1, after scrolling a bit it "grows" to 1000:1 :D or brighness varies from 250 to 350... :cautious:

Another prob besides high shipping costs or long delivery times, is that you have to add the import-turnover tax, which in the end drives these monitors into quite pricey products after all.

I will do a lil more research, but i guess at the moment i'll stick to the elecrow 13.3 on amazon...
Thanks again nevertheless!
 

RedSawn

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5mm for LP53 + Fan Adapter, using fan screw mounting

Will that end up on your shopfront? I don't have a 3D printer and figured if I'm going to buy the adapter I might as well buy the shroud as well

... Suppose since it's in dollars too I should ask if you ship to the UK...
 
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sdfewfe

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Will that end up on your shopfront? I don't have a 3D printer and figured if I'm going to buy the adapter I might as well buy the shroud as well

... Suppose since it's in dollars too I should ask if you ship to the UK...

You can get stuff 3D-printed and mailed to you these days! Check out 3dhubs.com for instance.
 

Raptor5150

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sdfewfe which package type should I get? I know you havent bought from superbuy but maybe someone has?


XXikOHR.png


I cant tell which one I should get they are all different prices :( Official standard is cheapest.
 
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sdfewfe

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sdfewfe which package type should I get? I know you havent bought from superbuy but maybe someone has?

I cant tell which one I should get they are all different prices :( Official standard is cheapest.

Hm, I'm not sure either. Judging by the relatively small price difference perhaps it's just different shipping / packaging options? I vaguely recall that there was two similar options when I got mine as well, I think we went for the official standard one.
 

thehack

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Will that end up on your shopfront? I don't have a 3D printer and figured if I'm going to buy the adapter I might as well buy the shroud as well

... Suppose since it's in dollars too I should ask if you ship to the UK...

You can PM me or email at jim@j-hackcompany.com for an order. I am currently in the EU for temp work.
 

thehack

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Unfortunately I took Sdfewfe's advice, but maybe if that doesn't work out I can't possibly go wrong getting it straight from the source, huh?

It's quite alright. It'd be very helpful if you add the photo to the thingiverse to help others.
 
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Hey, just trying to get a quick sanity check on some temps. Build is now complete, but cooling seems to be an issue.

I've got a R7 2700x with an Asetek 545lc in the A4 SFX v3.

My idle and load temps are quite high.

Idle: ~55c via Ryzen Master
Load: Up to limit at 85c at 3.7 ghz.

After about 15 minutes I start to see it throttle back to prevent overload if load continues.

Are those temps roughly what others are seeing with similar parts? Thanks!
 

pendragon1

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Hey, just trying to get a quick sanity check on some temps. Build is now complete, but cooling seems to be an issue.

I've got a R7 2700x with an Asetek 545lc in the A4 SFX v3.

My idle and load temps are quite high.

Idle: ~55c via Ryzen Master
Load: Up to limit at 85c at 3.7 ghz.

After about 15 minutes I start to see it throttle back to prevent overload if load continues.

Are those temps roughly what others are seeing with similar parts? Thanks!
check the tightness and or remount it
 
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check the tightness and or remount it
I've tried that. Temps remain stubbornly high, idling at ~50-55c.

With stock cooler and side panel off, temps idle ~40c and top out at ~75-80c.

I think that narrows it down to the Asetek545lc + Noctua NF A9x14 92mm fan being the culprit.

Anyone seeing better cooling performance from their 545lc? Should I be looking at an RMA for the cooler? Or are those temps simply the best that can be expected?
 

Chris4SFX

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I honestly can't imagine, that your temps are by far in the expected range for that AIO :confused:
He even reached quite good temps on a 140w tdp CPU, so i would definitely contact customer support and report your issues to them.

Would you keep us updated regarding this? I could imagine using this AIO by myself. Therefore i would be very interested in where the fault was in the end...
 

Raptor5150

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I honestly can't imagine, that your temps are by far in the expected range for that AIO :confused:
He even reached quite good temps on a 140w tdp CPU, so i would definitely contact customer support and report your issues to them.

Would you keep us updated regarding this? I could imagine using this AIO by myself. Therefore i would be very interested in where the fault was in the end...


Same. Just waiting for my V3 to ship to me so I can put my 2700x under the frosty coldplate :D
 

Alaberti

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Jan 21, 2018
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85
sorry if i wasn't very clear. i didn't mean the HDPlex PSU, i meant with 1U flex PSUs like the ones I linked in my original post

http://www.geeekstore.com/shop/custom-flex-atx-modular-psu
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...XriCc&id=550586245256&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail

Oh I see! It looks like the dimensions are much larger:

1U: 81.5 mm (W) x 40.5 mm (H) x 170 mm (D)

HDPlex: 51.5 (W) x 30 (H) mm x 160(L)

As the V3 is specifically compatible with the HDPlex, I imagine you'd have to perform a very creative mod to make it fit.
 

tenrose

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Feb 1, 2018
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Oh I see! It looks like the dimensions are much larger:

1U: 81.5 mm (W) x 40.5 mm (H) x 170 mm (D)

HDPlex: 51.5 (W) x 30 (H) mm x 160(L)

As the V3 is specifically compatible with the HDPlex, I imagine you'd have to perform a very creative mod to make it fit.

my planning so far is to have the 120mm AIO rad on the cpu side of the case, with the pipes going above the gpu slot on the mobo where the riser sits. i've managed to only just make this fit but it should work fine. i'll throw some pictures up when i get home from work.

with a gtx 1080 ti from zotac, the mini, i've got about 12cm total to fit next to the gpu. it's difficult to explain in words so here's a paint.exe image

upload_2018-7-24_15-12-59.png


this is the setup i've currently got. everything seems to fit and there's no kinks in any pipes. im planning for the psu to go in front of the radiator (ie, closer to us). it won't completely cover it, and im hoping to fit a 15m noctua fan the the bottom of the case as an intake. i'll need to find a mounting system for the psu if it fits...luckily i've got a friend with a 3d printer!

good lord that drawing is bad haha
 

RedSawn

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Came home today to find my ordered prints had went through the letterbox 2 days earlier then expected. Of course I'm not complaining. Got it in ABS since 3D Hub's PLA has a 60C glass temp which sounds a bit low for the use case.

Carefully snipped off the old cableties, screwed the fan to the adaptor and it slotted right on perfectly. Screwed the shroud in and it doesn't trouble the side panel at all. Idle temps have been fluctuating but I'm seeing 4~10C drops which is awesome for a bit of plastic.

Still really need to go tidy up the cabling... but every time I get the courage the A4's a lot smaller then I remember as if it hasn't been by my side 24/7 and it seems to be impossible to deal with the clump mostly caused by the 24 pin awkwardly twisting to fit the motherboard slot (I think it's slightly visible in the picture). Next time I have to see if it can wrap around the cutout below the motherboard. The slim fan wouldn't turn down there anyway.

20180724_135014.jpg 20180724_141507.jpg 20180724_142227.jpg 20180724_142405.jpg
 

Nyuha

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I just built my computer a couple days ago and wow this was by far the most difficult thing ive ever built. I have an 8700k with an asetek 545lc, and a 1080ti FE. Played totally accurate battlegrounds and my pc gets hot to touch if that is normal. gpu gets to 85 degrees, and cpu gets about 70s never really goes hotter. my samsung m.2 is 70 degrees at ALL times... I'm just wondering if these temps are ok for daily use or i should take the side panels off. if need be i can show my temps on HWMonitor. i also got a fan pointed at my pc helping it. I havent ran any stress tests since i built it, should i do that? i tried to disable intel turbo boost with intel tuner utility but it wont let me disable it. im probably gonna have to undervolt because i dont really like how hot my case feels to touch.
 
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pendragon1

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yup sounds about right. highest end parts in one of the smallest cases will do that...
 
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thehack

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Came home today to find my ordered prints had went through the letterbox 2 days earlier then expected. Of course I'm not complaining. Got it in ABS since 3D Hub's PLA has a 60C glass temp which sounds a bit low for the use case.

Carefully snipped off the old cableties, screwed the fan to the adaptor and it slotted right on perfectly. Screwed the shroud in and it doesn't trouble the side panel at all. Idle temps have been fluctuating but I'm seeing 4~10C drops which is awesome for a bit of plastic.

Still really need to go tidy up the cabling... but every time I get the courage the A4's a lot smaller then I remember as if it hasn't been by my side 24/7 and it seems to be impossible to deal with the clump mostly caused by the 24 pin awkwardly twisting to fit the motherboard slot (I think it's slightly visible in the picture). Next time I have to see if it can wrap around the cutout below the motherboard. The slim fan wouldn't turn down there anyway.

View attachment 91333 View attachment 91334 View attachment 91335 View attachment 91337

When you get a chance, please share your pictures on thingiverse. It'll help support my designs :)

Use the updated link here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3018556
 
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Nanook

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I just built my computer a couple days ago and wow this was by far the most difficult thing ive ever built. I have an 8700k with an asetek 545lc, and a 1080ti FE. Played totally accurate battlegrounds and my pc gets hot to touch if that is normal. gpu gets to 85 degrees, and cpu gets about 80 degrees never really goes hotter i assume that is acceptable for an 8700k. my samsung m.2 is 70 degrees at ALL times... I'm just wondering if these temps are ok for daily use or i should take the side panels off. if need be i can show my temps on HWMonitor. i also got a fan pointed at my pc helping it. I havent ran any stress tests since i built it, should i do that? i tried to disable intel turbo boost with intel tuner utility but it wont let me disable it. im probably gonna have to undervolt because i dont really like how hot my case feels to touch.
Yes, my Dancase will feel warm during gaming/ render workload.
CPU at 80c while gaming is higher than what I've experienced. Granted I'm only running a GTX1080 with 8700K.
 

Nyuha

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My m.2 is a constant 70 degrees its no wonder sldr needed a fan for his, i bought the noctua a4x10 fan but have to way to mount it.
 

Jspr

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Mar 28, 2016
Messages
163
Came home today to find my ordered prints had went through the letterbox 2 days earlier then expected. Of course I'm not complaining. Got it in ABS since 3D Hub's PLA has a 60C glass temp which sounds a bit low for the use case.

Carefully snipped off the old cableties, screwed the fan to the adaptor and it slotted right on perfectly. Screwed the shroud in and it doesn't trouble the side panel at all. Idle temps have been fluctuating but I'm seeing 4~10C drops which is awesome for a bit of plastic.

Still really need to go tidy up the cabling... but every time I get the courage the A4's a lot smaller then I remember as if it hasn't been by my side 24/7 and it seems to be impossible to deal with the clump mostly caused by the 24 pin awkwardly twisting to fit the motherboard slot (I think it's slightly visible in the picture). Next time I have to see if it can wrap around the cutout below the motherboard. The slim fan wouldn't turn down there anyway.

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Nice! What screws did you use?
 

thehack

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 16, 2016
Messages
155
Thanks for sharing! Do you have the blueprint for Cu C7?

You are welcome. :)


Using the term blueprint may cause confusion, as blueprints imply a 2d floor map, instead of a 3d model.

If you are referring to use a shroud for the C7, there is none because the C7 takes up the max clearance for the cpu cooler already.
 
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