DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

I'm currently running at stock clocks with very nice temps, but I can try overclocking tomorrow to see how it fares.

That's great news, I will probably pick one up then! Interested to see your overclocking results, you are on the latest bios right?
 
https://www.google.ie/amp/tekeverything.com/noctua-nh-l9i-am4-upgrade-kit/amp/

Not sure whether to believe this, seems to good to be true. I anyone else running an l9i with Ryzen? Can you confirm its awesomeness? :eek: I can only image the l9a would be ever so slightly better again as it is a bit bigger.

Edit: another review from the same guy with an l9a inside the case. http://tekeverything.com/ryzen-7-s4-mini-build-upgrades/amp/

I wonder how the l9a would perform with the 120x15mm noctua... or even a full 25mm thick fan... So many possibilities...

I have an unused l9a that I bought for the fan. I would be more than happy to trade my l9a for your l9i.
 
I have an unused l9a that I bought for the fan. I would be more than happy to trade my l9a for your l9i.
Sorry my post was a bit confusing, I don't have one. I meant does anyone else other than the reviewer I linked to have one. Thanks for the offer though! :)
 
I missed the first wave of non kickstarter buys in February by a couple hours, but Overclockers.co.uk had a "preorder" and a date of around July for new stock and I figured I could wait that long, so I just put in a preorder hoping to get it around July.

Well it's July and I checked the page and now it says ETA 15.12.17. Are they ever going to get more in stock or is my preorder just going to sit in limbo forever?
 
And the final confirmation is here.
The MSI Gaming GTX1070 fits perfectly the A4.

(I presume the 1080 will too and especially the 1080ti because they came back with the receased part for the pci-e plugs but of course you will not put the side panel anymore because it is too wide and have a muscle pitbull stance :p )

No need to remove the side panel push in clip. Only some convincing for the PSU cables. To hold them into place i used zip ties and once fixed took 'em off. The top/front panel fit perfectly.

*Side-upgraded from a 980ti to the 1070 even more quiet pourpouses and low temps and more efficiency. Plus the newer arhitecture and the extra 2 GB of Vram plus sold it for x and payed the same for the new one*

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Get some heat shrink and a flammable glue with a low viscosity (I use some generic UHU plastic adhesive).
Cut a small V shape in the isolation of your cable to be able to bend it more. Bend the cable exactly at the V (the V should close -> it faces inwards).
Put some glue on the cable (only a little bit) and then put some heat shrink over it (only a small strip).
Press the heat shrink a few time against the glue so that the inside of the heat shrink has glue on it.
Take a lighter and hold it close but not to close under the heat shrink. If done right the heat shrink will first contract a bit, then you will see some small flames and the heat shrink will wrap perfectly around the cable without any gap at all.
Depending on the glue and cables you used you may even be able to remove the heat shrink after that and the fold will still hold together and be perfectly isolated. Some glues are able to fuse the heat shrink of the plastic with the isolation of the cable.

This is a really neat trick if you need right angle bends in cables.
 
Get some heat shrink and a flammable glue with a low viscosity (I use some generic UHU plastic adhesive).
Cut a small V shape in the isolation of your cable to be able to bend it more. Bend the cable exactly at the V (the V should close -> it faces inwards).
Put some glue on the cable (only a little bit) and then put some heat shrink over it (only a small strip).
Press the heat shrink a few time against the glue so that the inside of the heat shrink has glue on it.
Take a lighter and hold it close but not to close under the heat shrink. If done right the heat shrink will first contract a bit, then you will see some small flames and the heat shrink will wrap perfectly around the cable without any gap at all.
Depending on the glue and cables you used you may even be able to remove the heat shrink after that and the fold will still hold together and be perfectly isolated. Some glues are able to fuse the heat shrink of the plastic with the isolation of the cable.

This is a really neat trick if you need right angle bends in cables.


Thanks ! For now they are good on the video card's end.
But you got me thinking. Maybe i can do that to the PSU so i can increase the space in between it and the fan from the AIO.

Will companies that do custom cables will tackle angled connectors? I mean all that exist the PSU?
 

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That's great news, I will probably pick one up then! Interested to see your overclocking results, you are on the latest bios right?

On the latest BIOS, yes. A few things of note:

  • My graphics-side panel is off as my card is too thick
  • I have a 3D printed duct that connects the Noctua fan directly to the CPU-side panel
  • I don't know much about overclocking
With that being said, at a 3.7GHz overclock I had the following temps:

  • At idle, the CPU was at 32C, system temp reported as being 36C
  • At load, the CPU temp was about 73C, with the system temp at 45C

Hope this helps.
 
I was able to get for my build a Galax GTX 1070 OC Mini for a very good price. However the card is very noisy so now I am looking for a good after market GPU cooler to replace the Galax stock cooler. Unfortunately the Arctic Accelero Extreme will not fit in my understanding, Or would it if the swapped the fans to Noctua A9x14? . Can anyone recommend a good VGA cooler, that will fit in the A4? Thanks.
 
On the latest BIOS, yes. A few things of note:

  • My graphics-side panel is off as my card is too thick
  • I have a 3D printed duct that connects the Noctua fan directly to the CPU-side panel
  • I don't know much about overclocking
With that being said, at a 3.7GHz overclock I had the following temps:

  • At idle, the CPU was at 32C, system temp reported as being 36C
  • At load, the CPU temp was about 73C, with the system temp at 45C

Hope this helps.
Those results sound really great, I'm going to order an l9a today. I'll probably do some sort of duct at some point. I also might just make a 1mm sheet metal adaptor plate and fit a 120x25mm if it clears all my other components on my motherboard excluding the ram. Just to see how it performs! Thanks for the tests. Probably also going to order a 1080, it seems like a really great card for the Dan case and Vega is looking quite hot, additionally I am sick of waiting!
 
Those results sound really great, I'm going to order an l9a today. I'll probably do some sort of duct at some point. I also might just make a 1mm sheet metal adaptor plate and fit a 120x25mm if it clears all my other components on my motherboard excluding the ram. Just to see how it performs! Thanks for the tests. Probably also going to order a 1080, it seems like a really great card for the Dan case and Vega is looking quite hot, additionally I am sick of waiting!

I have an unused l9a without the fan that you can have for whatever you want to pay and shipping.
 
I have an unused l9a without the fan that you can have for whatever you want to pay and shipping.
Thanks for the offer but I think it will cost too much and take to long to post to Ireland to be worth it? I kind of want the fan too as the separate retail one doesn't spin quite as fast....
 
Those results sound really great, I'm going to order an l9a today. I'll probably do some sort of duct at some point. I also might just make a 1mm sheet metal adaptor plate and fit a 120x25mm if it clears all my other components on my motherboard excluding the ram. Just to see how it performs! Thanks for the tests. Probably also going to order a 1080, it seems like a really great card for the Dan case and Vega is looking quite hot, additionally I am sick of waiting!

... Please wait for Vega.
 
Thanks ! For now they are good on the video card's end.
But you got me thinking. Maybe i can do that to the PSU so i can increase the space in between it and the fan from the AIO.

Will companies that do custom cables will tackle angled connectors? I mean all that exist the PSU?

I don't think any company will bother with 90° Molex Jr. connectors. I also don't know of any official 90° Molex Jr. connectors in the first place, so your only way would be to follow the earlier posted German thread.
If you have some translation issues just ask. There are many Germans in this forum anyway.


On the German hardware forums there is a thread with a step by step guide on modifying right angle power connectors like this
p10109842t5h.jpg
If you are the tinkering type and want to eliminate any possible future bulging issues.

 
People who have asus z270I gaming.
What its your bios configuration? because I dont know how to undervolt with offset or adaptative.
 
Greetings,
after seeing the wounderful wiring of mikelorant i'll also try the Cablemod option with a Corsair SF450 and a Gigabyte GA-H270N-Wifi.

  • 150mm 24 pin PSU cable.
  • 250mm 8 pin EPS cable.
  • 2 x 350mm 6+8 pin PCIE cable. (Not sure if i'll try the routing behind the graphics card)
  • 100mm SSD cable.
Did somebody try his idea to make sure that ALL of these cables have the retention clip on OPPOSITE sides?


Question regarding graphic card - is there any advantage with the cooling fins being vertical for better airflow - IMHO only Asus, EVGA and Gigabyte have them this way.

I "maneurved" the ASUS ROG STRIX 1070 OC of my brother into the DAN case...oh my god. I wish i could by one - but 650€ is a bit too much on the crazy side atm. :(

Any other recommendations? The MSI Gaming 1070 is as i saw from Rorschach a bit too high for my taste. Sadly nice it's a very silent card - and that's a must be for me.
 
great pictures in that review, but unfortunately the author doesn't measure mechanical flexibility, which is what dan needs to know. I think dan chooses 3m because only 3m bends well and fits the case...

My point was not to critique dan or suggest changing riser manufacturer. Frankly, i'm very happy with dan's choice, the 3m riser is working very well in my A4-SFX v1. I just thought it was interesting for us, to see what the performance impact can be, and, that other manufacturers are also producing good stuff.

Yup!, it would be cool to have the Lian Li´s PCIE risers :) since they have the black PCB that everybody wants and maybe it would be faster to deliver since Lian Li is also making the Cases.

But maybe Dan is getting a better price from 3M or you are right about the flexibility. :(

Anyways it will be cool to get the Lian Li´s ones (dreaming is for free :p) with the black PCB and covered cables, just look at them:

sUfp0Fs.jpg


pci-e-0001.jpg
pci-e-0002.jpg
 
That's why I'm searching for a Lapdock that includes monitor, keyboard and mouse.
Like an HP Elite x3 Lapdock (USB C, 1 cable)
 
That's only USB-C, no HDMI or Displayport so not very usable for a discrete GPU.
 
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Just got a reply from cablemod - their guys cannot build the cables so that the other retention clip is on the opposite side. Bummer, looks like i'll have to do that by myself.
 
Greetings,
after seeing the wounderful wiring of mikelorant i'll also try the Cablemod option with a Corsair SF450 and a Gigabyte GA-H270N-Wifi.

  • 150mm 24 pin PSU cable.
  • 250mm 8 pin EPS cable.
  • 2 x 350mm 6+8 pin PCIE cable. (Not sure if i'll try the routing behind the graphics card)
  • 100mm SSD cable.
Did somebody try his idea to make sure that ALL of these cables have the retention clip on OPPOSITE sides?


Question regarding graphic card - is there any advantage with the cooling fins being vertical for better airflow - IMHO only Asus, EVGA and Gigabyte have them this way.

I "maneurved" the ASUS ROG STRIX 1070 OC of my brother into the DAN case...oh my god. I wish i could by one - but 650€ is a bit too much on the crazy side atm. :(

Any other recommendations? The MSI Gaming 1070 is as i saw from Rorschach a bit too high for my taste. Sadly nice it's a very silent card - and that's a must be for me.

Are you f***ing kidding me?
I can buy a used 1080Ti with this amount of money (Switzerland) and would still have some money left for ice cream. (all links bellow)
I can also buy a Asus GTX 1070 STRIX O8G (I assume that is the card you are talking about) used for 460CHF (475USD / 420EUR) and I can order it for about 550CHF (570USD / 500EUR). Sadly I cannot directly buy it new since nobody has them in stock but some say they can get one in approx. 3 weeks for that price.


So yeah, if you live in Europe I could buy and sent them to you or you could ask the guys selling them if they sent them to you.

Gigabyte 1080ti on Anibis
MSI 1080Ti on Anibis

Asus STRIX 1070 O8G on Anibis


P.S: As you might know this prices are all including taxes and other stuff, both 1080Ti still have 3 years warranty. The 1070 doesn't mention anything but it has to have some warranty because it is only 6 months old and the minimum here is 24 months.
 
Sadly I cannot directly buy it new since nobody has them in stock but some say they can get one in approx. 3 weeks for that price.

That's exactly my problem - all shops here in Austria/Germany who have it in stock are above 600€, and the availabilty changes on daily base. https://geizhals.at/asus-rog-strix-geforce-gtx-1070-oc-90yv09n0-m0na00-a1450613.html?hloc=at

Didn't check the renewal market, with these prices the cards are true goldmines at the moment. Still..might be worth a look as i see now.
 
Yea they can barely keep cards in stock it's mad. I am able to get the VAT off so prices are ok but who knows how long it will take to get back in stock....
 
Just got a reply from cablemod - their guys cannot build the cables so that the other retention clip is on the opposite side. Bummer, looks like i'll have to do that by myself.
Have you considered moddiy.com? I have confirmed with them that they flip the retention clips. They also take custom orders.

dondan, are you able to provide a scale CAD file for the very basic exterior dimensions of the case? I am looking to purchase a Pelican case and would like to have a custom foam interior to hold the Dancase, the issue is a CAD file or the actual case is required to create the foam insert. If anyone can help I would be very grateful.
 
Have you considered moddiy.com? I have confirmed with them that they flip the retention clips. They also take custom orders.

dondan, are you able to provide a scale CAD file for the very basic exterior dimensions of the case? I am looking to purchase a Pelican case and would like to have a custom foam interior to hold the Dancase, the issue is a CAD file or the actual case is required to create the foam insert. If anyone can help I would be very grateful.
Rough STEP model
Rough STL model

good enough?

Should be correct to at least 5mm I would say.
 
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Would it be bad for performance to use an HDMI to USB C adapter cable like this one?

http://**************/2tmU1YK

KKfLs6B.jpg

This should work but I don't recommend it.
The monitor (according to its user manual) implements the displayPort alternative mode for USB-C which is of course backwards compatible to HDMI, DVI and VGA over adapter cables. However, this is an additional step in outputing the signal, I would recommend a USB-C to DisplayPort cable.


Sources:
Manual of the MB16AC (under 3.2 Specificafion; or just search for "DisplayPort")
DisplayPort Alt Mode
 
So I just finished this last night. Ryzen 1800X on the gigabyte ITX board. I have one of the 9 (?) full copper thermalright prototype coolers modified to fit the new Noctua NF-A12-15 PWM fan.

Also modified to fit was the fan. I had to take .030 of an inch off the left and right sides while also shaving off the connector that holds the 4+4 pins together. Just BARELY fits. Once turned on its super quiet but couldn't do anything else because I cant find my USB with windows on it :(.

I will update later with full specs once everything is up and running.
IMG_20170713_225300.jpg
 
Does anyone know if a EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3 w/ ICX will fit in this case?

It fits, but its a very tight fit and you need to beware of a few things...
  1. Remove the PCI slot from the case before putting the GPU into the case.
  2. Have very bendable cables as there is very little space between the GPU molex sockets and the case edge.
  3. Push in the side bracket holder before installing the GPU as it will prevent the card fitting in properly in its standard state.
  4. Remove all the protect plastic from the card before installing because you can't remove it afterwards.
Temperatures are amazing and it is truly silent at idle. Highly recommend this card if you can work around the issues I mentioned above.
 
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