DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

mathijs159

Weaksauce
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Dec 3, 2015
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89
That AIO looks very interesting! Maybe a way to watercool the gpu/compatibility with future fury X like cards?
 

pionir

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Apr 11, 2017
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28
my best bet is to buy a pre delided 7700k from Caseking (4.8 ish ghz) + a lil bit of faith so i can keep it under 85 C on load. however, since i`ve ordered internal dust protectors for both sides i kinda get the feeling that 85-90 will be my avg temps on load... D: ....any suggestions? maybe a additional small blowerstyle case fan ?? at least this was my suggestion.
 

mcheddadi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
240
Lp53 with the io shield off with a 120mm slim fan like the prolimatech one with a dellid with liquid metal on IHS and the lp53 and you switch the mother board heatinks for the mosfet and VRMs with the small copper prong ones, I say maybe you'll run at 4.8ghz at 98C underload if you're lucky. IMO a single rad AIO water cooling with only a 92mm fan will be the same because of the fan . Good luck!
 

richiegore

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Joined
Feb 1, 2017
Messages
322
You could do a pretty cool build with one of the new Ryzen APUs, if there are any powerful ones, and a slim 240/280mm rad on the GPU side....

Edit: Probably would make no sense from a performance/price perspective unless you can get a suitable AIO cooler...
 
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illram

[H]ard|Gawd
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1,467
Oooh, hey, can you answer a question for me?

I jist bought a Strix, myself. I'm only planning on using one pcie SSD and one 2.5" storage drive.

I'd rather not put the M.2 ssd on the back of motherboard due to concerns about heat... But from what I've read, I should have concerns about heat with the 'double decker heatsink anyways.

What are your thoughts between using an nvme drive on the back, on the front with the heatsink, or on the front without the heatsink (but probably without the greatest airflow either way.)

I'm not entirely sure the front heatsink does a whole lot, to be honest. (Good or bad). I haven't tested it in both configurations. I realize now I probably should remove the sticker on the front of the m.2 so the heatsink thermal pad has direct contact with the SSD chips in order to really see if it makes a difference but, to be honest since it doesn't seem to ever get too hot (high 50's sometimes during extreme loads) I don't care much either way. I did see nice low temps when I was testing with a 120mm CPU cooling fan, so as you said this is really about air flow (or lack thereof) as far as how cool you really want that front m.2 slot.

But the rear drive does get hotter, sometimes in the high 60's. I never see it get that hot on the front, so if I were only using one slot I'd use the front one.
 
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Ozymandias

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
1,610
Me too!

Delided and waiting to cure!

I don't think this water cooler is going to work.

Please let me know if you or anyone else has ideas/positions for the water cooler they wold like me to try.View attachment 22084

Can you turn the radiator around so the tubes don't have to stretch as much? Or does the end tank hit the motherboard tray?
 

darksable

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
431
I'm not entirely sure the front heatsink does a whole lot, to be honest. (Good or bad). I haven't tested it in both configurations. I realize now I probably should remove the sticker on the front of the m.2 so the heatsink thermal pad has direct contact with the SSD chips in order to really see if it makes a difference but, to be honest since it doesn't seem to ever get too hot (high 50's sometimes during extreme loads) I don't care much either way. I did see nice low temps when I was testing with a 120mm CPU cooling fan, so as you said this is really about air flow (or lack thereof) as far as how cool you really want that front m.2 slot.

But the rear drive does get hotter, sometimes in the high 60's. I never see it get that hot on the front, so if I were only using one slot I'd use the front one.
Cool, thanks for letting me borrow some experience. :)
 

maven1975

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May 24, 2014
Messages
32
Have it all together now.

Thermals are out of control.. even after delidding.

Perhaps I did not put enough Liquid metal on when I delidded.

AIDA64 fails less than a minute in due to thermal limits. I have the fan at full tilt as well.

Rats!
 

ManaNeko

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Joined
Dec 18, 2012
Messages
21
Here is a full GTX 1080Ti compatibility list:

  • Nvidia 1080 Ti FE
  • ASUS ROG Strix GTX 1080 Ti
  • ASUS Turbo GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Gaming
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition Gaming
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 Gaming
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aorus Xtreme Edition 11G
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aorus 11G
  • Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC 11G
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Twin X2
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti iChill X3 Ultra
  • Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080 Ti iChill X4 Ultra
  • KFA² GeForce GTX 1080 Ti EXOC
  • KFA² GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X 11G
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Armor 11G OC
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aero 11G OC
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Armor 11G
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aero 11G
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti JetStream
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Super JetStream
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GameRock
  • Palit GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GameRock Premium
  • PNY GeForce GTX 1080 Ti XLR8 Gaming OC
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti AMP Extreme
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti AMP
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Blower
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Added: PNY GeForce GTX 1080 Ti XLR8 Gaming OC.
Reason: Card length = 31.39cm (12.36 inches). Which more than the 29.5cm max length of the case's specifications. This hasn't been tested however, so I left it in orange.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
42
Have it all together now.

Thermals are out of control.. even after delidding.

Perhaps I did not put enough Liquid metal on when I delidded.

AIDA64 fails less than a minute in due to thermal limits. I have the fan at full tilt as well.

Rats!


Strange.

You sure that the delid/paste etc is all ok?

Only that I have run a o/c Skylake i5 from a 92mm rad before (twin 25mm fan tho), and had no issue with temps.
 

Ratzes

n00b
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
11
Was wondering about other peoples experiences with 250W gpu temps, like titan x and 1080 ti (FE). I'm hitting 88-90C on a titan x, was testing DOOM and it started glitching out. I removed the gpu side panel and it went down to about 84C. Running a 7700k delid and those temps are just fine. Stating to think that hoping the blower style would work is a mistake. Any recommendations such as additional fan placements or something that worked for others?
 

illram

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
1,467
Ramp up your fan curve with Afterburner. Default is too slow and caps at 50% on my Ti FE.
 

maven1975

n00b
Joined
May 24, 2014
Messages
32
Strange.

You sure that the delid/paste etc is all ok?

Only that I have run a o/c Skylake i5 from a 92mm rad before (twin 25mm fan tho), and had no issue with temps.

I'm using the LP53 with a Noctua fan.

Are all you 7700k owners out there familiar with this behavior?

Thanks in advance!
 

Blackreplica

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2016
Messages
205
So
I'm using the LP53 with a Noctua fan.

Are all you 7700k owners out there familiar with this behavior?

Thanks in advance!

sorry but i think you messed up your delid. When i run uniengine loops on a single fan gtx 970 dumping massive heat into the dan a4 with the intel extreme cpu test concurrently, i see peak temps of 90deg after an hour with an ambient temp of 30degrees. With aida running and no gpu load i could probably easily manage 80degrees or less. This is all on a 4.6Ghz overclock

Plus i am just using the c7 heatsink along with the noctua a9-x14 fan
 

maven1975

n00b
Joined
May 24, 2014
Messages
32
So


sorry but i think you messed up your delid. When i run uniengine loops on a single fan gtx 970 dumping massive heat into the dan a4 with the intel extreme cpu test concurrently, i see peak temps of 90deg after an hour with an ambient temp of 30degrees. With aida running and no gpu load i could probably easily manage 80degrees or less. This is all on a 4.6Ghz overclock

Plus i am just using the c7 heatsink along with the noctua a9-x14 fan


That's a relief!

Will tear it all down and reapply the Liquid metal.

I was careful and thin with the application. That was me being overly cautious.

I appreciate the info.

Also, antes to add that my g.skill rgb ram does indeed post and run at 4200mhz. I have updated to the latest bios, so if anyone was having issues before, try updating and check your results.
 

SpartanM07

n00b
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Messages
11
I've managed to install the heatsink/fan assembly from a EVGA GTX 1080 FTW (bought from eBay) onto my Titan Xp. Highest temps I've seen so far is 61C with an ambient of around 22C. Idle temps are extremely low at around 23 to 26C. Fan is silent at idle and about as loud as a PS4 Pro at full tilt. Boost clocks settle right at 2000mhz; I haven't touched the memory yet. Second image is my Titan X (Pascal)... I used it as the test bed in-case I did something wrong. Moved the Titan X (Pascal) to my second PC with a hybrid mod installed; third pic.
Titan Xp ACX 3.0 Mod.jpgTitan X ACX 3.0 Mod.jpgTitan X Hybrid Mod.jpg
 

StrawKite

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
164
Hello,

Here are some photos of the water cooler sitting on to of the Noctua fan.

Im sure it would be better to reverse the seating, fan on top. this is just for measure.
View attachment 22071 View attachment 22072 View attachment 22073
You should install taller feet, to give the fan on the radiator some breathing room.

I really wished you would have tried the radiator outside the case without delid first, those results could have been quite important. But hopefully Dan will deliver this :)
 
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darksable

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
431
I've managed to install the heatsink/fan assembly from a EVGA GTX 1080 FTW (bought from eBay) onto my Titan Xp. Highest temps I've seen so far is 61C with an ambient of around 22C. Idle temps are extremely low at around 23 to 26C. Fan is silent at idle and about as loud as a PS4 Pro at full tilt. Boost clocks settle right at 2000mhz; I haven't touched the memory yet

Sorry if you've already given this info, but this is an upgrade from what temps at stock?
 

pionir

n00b
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
28
Guys i couldn't find a sufficient spreadsheet for different clock speed stats on the 7700k... since i'm about to buy a pre delided one 4,8 oc from caseking and ppl suggested i'd have to run it down to 4,5~4,6, i kinda like to know what settings i need to provide. Offset, coreclock, voltage and anything else i need. I'm running on a strix z270i with a noctua l9i fan. ( i know every cpu is unique but some reference stats would be great )
 

darksable

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
431
Guys i couldn't find a sufficient spreadsheet for different clock speed stats on the 7700k... since i'm about to buy a pre delided one 4,8 oc from caseking and ppl suggested i'd have to run it down to 4,5~4,6, i kinda like to know what settings i need to provide. Offset, coreclock, voltage and anything else i need. I'm running on a strix z270i with a noctua l9i fan. ( i know every cpu is unique but some reference stats would be great )

A lot of people, myself included, will be letting you know that the only way to get a rock-solid overclock at the minimum voltage possible is to overclock till it needs more voltage to be stable, bump voltage till it is, clock higher - so forth and so on until temps become unmanageable, and then back down a step.

However, if you aren't pushing your chip to its limits, then you probably don't need to bother with that.

To get 4.6 GHz shouldn't be a problem at all, and a number of chips can probably do it at stock voltage. If you want to see, just set your core multiplayer (ratio) to 46, boot up, and test it out. If that's not rock solid, use offset voltage and start by adding +.075v or so; you're aiming to hit 1.25vcore. That should be enough for almost any chip to run 4.6GHz solidly, and if it checks out, you can start backing down slowly to get better optimized temps.
 

SpartanM07

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Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Messages
11
Sorry if you've already given this info, but this is an upgrade from what temps at stock?

With the stock heatsink/fan at the default fan curve I'd hit the soft thermal limit of 83C at load and the Titan Xp would down clock to compensate; idle temps were between 32 - 40C. I did create a custom fan curve threw Afterburner (idle around 30C, load around 77C) and the card would no longer down clock but it sounded like a small jet.

So basically I upgraded to lower temps (-20C+ at load), higher boost clocks, and a much quieter PC.
 
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illram

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
1,467
Thanks! Ran it for a while at full fan, capped at 85C for me with cover off, getting anywhere around that?

So on my Ti I hit the thermal cap briefly sometimes while playing Witcher 3, never while doing stress tests, but according to HWINFO I am averaging, over the hours played, a higher clock speed and voltage with the more aggressive curve vs the default. Looking at a data dump I see the card reaches thermal load but not for the sustained periods of time it was reaching under default fan curves, also it takes a lot longer to hit the thermal cap. This is with my fan capped at 70% also, not 100%, and with a really aggressive ramp up. (Basically shoots up to 70% once card goes over 45c.)
 

Julio Espinosa

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Joined
Feb 1, 2017
Messages
71
Have it all together now.

Thermals are out of control.. even after delidding.

Perhaps I did not put enough Liquid metal on when I delidded.

AIDA64 fails less than a minute in due to thermal limits. I have the fan at full tilt as well.

Rats!

Just asking:
1.- Did you put Liquid Metal on the Chip and in the IHS (a matching square)
2.- If you close it with silicone, did you leave a tiny gap? (the stock glue that holds the IHS doesn't close it all around)
3.- Maybe the IHS is far from the chip, doesn't make contact and doesn't cool it.
 

barvis

n00b
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Dec 9, 2015
Messages
21
Just asking:
1.- Did you put Liquid Metal on the Chip and in the IHS (a matching square)
2.- If you close it with silicone, did you leave a tiny gap? (the stock glue that holds the IHS doesn't close it all around)
3.- Maybe the IHS is far from the chip, doesn't make contact and doesn't cool it.
Do you need to put liquid metal on the underside of the IHS? I've seen it both ways in videos and what not. I am nervous because I delidded yesterday (haven't tested it since I let it cure overnight) and only went with a layer on the die too.
 

Julio Espinosa

Weaksauce
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Feb 1, 2017
Messages
71
Do you need to put liquid metal on the underside of the IHS? I've seen it both ways in videos and what not. I am nervous because I delidded yesterday (haven't tested it since I let it cure overnight) and only went with a layer on the die too.
I think it's necessary, because the Liquid Metal won't get easily impregnated on the IHS, maybe I'm wrong.
 

maven1975

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May 24, 2014
Messages
32
Just asking:
1.- Did you put Liquid Metal on the Chip and in the IHS (a matching square)
2.- If you close it with silicone, did you leave a tiny gap? (the stock glue that holds the IHS doesn't close it all around)
3.- Maybe the IHS is far from the chip, doesn't make contact and doesn't cool it.
I put it on both sides. Honestly, I think it's because it only applied a thin layer on each (CPU and Top IHS)

I used loctite dots to keep the IHS in place and held it in place in the Rocket 88 deliding/relidding tool.
 

barvis

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Dec 9, 2015
Messages
21
I think this is exactly what happened. I just fixing apply enough in fear of causing other issues by accidentally using too much.
So far so good over here. A sample AID64 run is seeing temperatures at 64C 8 minutes in. I feel like I would be sitting at high 80s by now pre-delid.
 

antioch

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Messages
337
Just curious: has anyone tried removing their GPU's heatsync and reapplying with a better (e.g. Thermal Grizzly) thermal paste to improve temps by a few degrees yet? I haven't got my parts yet but I plan on doing so with my MSI 1080 when it arrives.
 

Hotshot619

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Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Messages
35
GPUs TIM are typically good and you wont see enough of an improvement in temps overall for it to be worth it. As well as a large amount of the heat tends to come from the VRMs which typically use thermal pads not paste.
 

pendragon1

Fully [H]
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Oct 7, 2000
Messages
24,718
Just curious: has anyone tried removing their GPU's heatsync and reapplying with a better (e.g. Thermal Grizzly) thermal paste to improve temps by a few degrees yet? I haven't got my parts yet but I plan on doing so with my MSI 1080 when it arrives.
yes it will help a bit. youll get ~5C cooler typically, some times more if the hsf wasn't screwed down tight.
 

maven1975

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May 24, 2014
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So far so good over here. A sample AID64 run is seeing temperatures at 64C 8 minutes in. I feel like I would be sitting at high 80s by now pre-delid.
What are your normal idle temps? Also, do you think me running 4200mhz Ram will cause this massive heat issue?

I'm going to reapply tomorrow.
 

barvis

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Dec 9, 2015
Messages
21
What are your normal idle temps? Also, do you think me running 4200mhz Ram will cause this massive heat issue?

I'm going to reapply tomorrow.
My idle temps didn't really drop in Windows it seems. They're staying around 40 or so, although the Cryorig C7 seems to be quieter than it was before. I got excited when I saw 27C in BIOS, but right now I am hovering at 40 idle. Though I haven't undervolted or anything and it looks like turbo mode is constantly running at 4.5ghz. I did a test Handbrake video encode and I seemed to top out at 80 (whereas I'd probably hit 90s before).

So all in all, a bit of a mixed bag. I don't know if I should reapply or if this is what I should expect though.
 

WarBird25

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Joined
Feb 1, 2017
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15
Tried about 5 hours to make XMP work on z270i strix and I just couldn't make it work. How fast are your ram?

Also I wouldn't recommend using a razor blade for removing the Intel silicone as the risk is just too high.. Doesn't take much time using your nails or a old credit card to remove it safely.

Sorry for the late reply. I have the Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-17-17-35. Maybe I will try to make XMP work with undervolt as some have suggested.
Do you mean the risk of cuttung yourself or to damage the CPU? Usually I am a little clumsy and would cut myself any time possible, but in this case I didn't injure myself (or the CPU) :). Just be extra careful and slow. Removing the second blade-side is and using the electrical tape to cover the metal edges helps avoiding injuries :)

Btw about the Asus Z270 POST problem. After 1 or 2 succesful boots (after turning off power) after the bios reset, I have the same problem again :/. I guess I need to wait for a fix from Asus.
 

blonda007

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Jul 4, 2016
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Just curious: has anyone tried removing their GPU's heatsync and reapplying with a better (e.g. Thermal Grizzly) thermal paste to improve temps by a few degrees yet? I haven't got my parts yet but I plan on doing so with my MSI 1080 when it arrives.
MSI GTX1080 Gaming X - Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut , max 75 °C - 1634 speed
 

pionir

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Apr 11, 2017
Messages
28
I found this and thought to implement something similar by removing the slot connection and putting it with some magnets on the side panel (CPU side)
Do you guys think it could work?
 

ceski

Weaksauce
Joined
Jul 6, 2016
Messages
80
Printed a fan bracket and stuck a foam gasket on top.

Prime95:
No Fan Duct: 93 °C
Fan Duct: 89 °C

PCH, M.2, and memory temps dropped by 3-4 °C. Ambient: 22 °C.
i7-7700K Delidded, 5.0 GHz, 1.312 V, LP53 + NF-A9x14 + no I/O shield.

More testing to do, thought I'd share.
 

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