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DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

rude said:
Guys...

I think I have found a very concerning flaw in this case. I was checking out all of my temps on my HWINFO and came upon my Motherboard Temps... 114 Celcius... Now I don't know where this sensor is (I have a Asus Z170i Pro Gaming) so just want to hear from ya'll if you could help identify where the heat could be building up?

Is this even acceptable temps?

Can ya'll check your temps for me please?
Click to expand...

That might not be the case's fault. I have the same motherboard and it shows the same ridicolous temps. (also when not in the Dan case) However, Asus could not really be bothered, and all I got was a vague confirmation that it was an error but they would not replace it.
 
rude said:
Guys...

I think I have found a very concerning flaw in this case. I was checking out all of my temps on my HWINFO and came upon my Motherboard Temps... 114 Celcius... Now I don't know where this sensor is (I have a Asus Z170i Pro Gaming) so just want to hear from ya'll if you could help identify where the heat could be building up?

Is this even acceptable temps?

Can ya'll check your temps for me please?
Click to expand...

I believe you gotta somehow get the temps to about 85-90 under load...unless you want your gear to get fried... i gotta say. i haven´t been able to put my setup together yet but I'm gonna watch out for additional fans (miniature) if possible. Thanks for the benchmarks.
 
rude said:
Guys...

I think I have found a very concerning flaw in this case. I was checking out all of my temps on my HWINFO and came upon my Motherboard Temps... 114 Celcius... Now I don't know where this sensor is (I have a Asus Z170i Pro Gaming) so just want to hear from ya'll if you could help identify where the heat could be building up?

Is this even acceptable temps?

Can ya'll check your temps for me please?
Click to expand...

Try opening up the case and aiming a fan at different parts of the motherboard. If the temperature doesn't change, it's more than likely a stuck or false sensor that you can safely ignore.
 
antioch said:
Hey, iilram. Can you please post your system specs and idle/max temps? IIRC from reading the thread, you're on a 7700k with LP53+A4, but what temps? I assume you delidded, what thermal paste did you use on both?
Click to expand...

i7-7700K, LP53 w/ Noctua A9x14 slim 92mm fan, Team Vulcan 16GB 3000MHz RAM, GTX 1080Ti. I didn't delid, actually, but I recognize from the data that is probably one of the the best ways to drastically reduce your temps. I used NH-1 and then tried Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, but I can't say with certainty the Thermal Grizzly did anything more than the NH-1.

I did a lot of different tests that are posted in various places, here are the most relevant ones. All temps are from HWINFO, which registers a few degrees higher than AI Suite's temp for some reason:

Prime95 26.6 (running settings in the spreadsheet floating around):
@1.14v 89c
@1.24v 95c

I hit 86c according to AI Suite also, and at 1.20v, but I am disregarding that now as it seems AI suite consistently measures lower than HWINFO. All of these are between 23-25c ambient. (This is all in the spreadsheet).

Idle varies. If I run the fan at around 1300-1600 RPM ("Turbo" in AI Suite), I can keep my idle in the low to mid 30's. If I run in "silent" mode (300 RPM) I get up to the low to mid 40's. Just browsing the internet or writing in Word, I see it fluctuate from 40's to 60's. "Turbo" mode is still very quiet with the Noctua. The a9x14 is really an excellent fan.

In AIDA64 I get high 80's, low 90's depending on ambient. In gaming I see low 80's high 70's.

There are a few things I recommend whether or not you delid and whether or not you get the LP53.

1. I saw a very big difference in temps when I removed the IO panel and removed the oversized VRM heatsinks on the Asus Strix motherboard that were impeding airflow. You want to make sure the LP53, or any low profile fan, has at least one direction in which air can flow more or less unimpeded out of the case.
2. Undervolting your CPU just a tad results in lower max and idle temps. I was able to do a negative offset of -.080v and saw a 6c or more reduction in load temps, while maintaining all my stock clocks. This was almost as significant a jump as I saw when removing the VRM heatsink. "Out of the box" you have some free voltage to play with, basically. No reason to keep it there.

All of the above goes out the window if you just buy a lower wattage chip. (But where's the fun in that?!!??)

rude said:
Guys...

I think I have found a very concerning flaw in this case. I was checking out all of my temps on my HWINFO and came upon my Motherboard Temps... 114 Celcius... Now I don't know where this sensor is (I have a Asus Z170i Pro Gaming) so just want to hear from ya'll if you could help identify where the heat could be building up?

Is this even acceptable temps?

Can ya'll check your temps for me please?
Click to expand...

That, to me, clearly looks like a faulty sensor. I see 40-50 degrees on my motherboard even during lots of stress tests. The most I saw, and this was actually using a laser thermometer pointed at my PCB, was mid 60c, and that was in the area that hot CPU air was getting blown out the rear of the case. And my case is packed with high wattage stuff and is probably on the high end of the heat spectrum.

If it isn't a faulty sensor than something is wrong with your motherboard; nothing in the case design could account for that radical a temperature.
 
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I've just installed this 22 cores beast inside A4-SFX.

Cpu: Xeon E5-2696 V4 (It's the same as Broadwell-E E5-2699 V4 but OEM, to be part of a branded server, and 1/4 of the price on ebay).

Cinebench: 2838cb

Cores: 22
Threads: 44
Base: 2,2 ghz
Turbo all cores: 2,65ghz
Turbo 3.0 one core: 3,6ghz

Max Temp While rendering (23ºC ambient) = 82ºC

It combines multi core performance for rendering (my main purpose) and one core 3,6ghz turbo boost for gaming.


I've used an ASROCK X99E-ITX AC motherboard and it's working flawlesly.
Heatisnk: Dynatron T-318 + TY-100 Fan
Thermal Grease: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

1.jpg
1.jpg


1.jpg
 
Last edited:
rude said:
Guys...

I think I have found a very concerning flaw in this case. I was checking out all of my temps on my HWINFO and came upon my Motherboard Temps... 114 Celcius... Now I don't know where this sensor is (I have a Asus Z170i Pro Gaming) so just want to hear from ya'll if you could help identify where the heat could be building up?

Is this even acceptable temps?

Can ya'll check your temps for me please?
Click to expand...
I have the same board, and the same silly temperature readings. I wouldn't worry about it - it'll be a false reading, probably a BIOS issue or even a design fault given that others have reported exactly the same issue with this particular board.
 
Actually, a bit of rudimentary googling suggests that it's just a case of there being no sensor in the position that the monitoring software is reading - some birds have several different sensors in various locations around the board, others may only have a single sensor. Looks like the Z170i might be in the latter category, so HWMonitor (or whichever software) isn't getting a reading and is showing a crazy number instead. My Z170i reports board temperature in BIOS as being normal, so that's good enough for me.

Definitely not an issue with this case, at any rate - I don't have an A4!
 
yeah prob a goofy sensor. the pos backup I'm using right now has something at "102c" riiight.... you can smell it when something is that hot.
 
Would love to know how thermals and sound is when under load.

That's a beast for productivity!

Hmmm.. 1 core at 3.6. Wonder how that translates to others 7700ks.

Interesting build you have there to say the least :)

pedrofan said:
I've just installed this 22 cores beast inside A4-SFX.

Cpu: Xeon E5-2696 V4 (It's the same as Broadwell-E E5-2699 V4 but OEM, to be part of a branded server, and 1/4 of the price on ebay).

Cinebench: 2838cb

Cores: 22
Threads: 44
Base: 2,2 ghz
Turbo all cores: 2,65ghz
Turbo 3.0 one core: 3,6ghz

It combines multi core performance for rendering (my main purpose) and one core 3,6ghz turbo boost for gaming.


I've used an ASROCK X99E-ITX AC motherboard and it's working flawlesly.
Heatisnk: Dynatron T-318 + TY-100 Fan

1.jpg
1.jpg
Click to expand...
 
pionir said:
So my current parts for my upcoming build include 1xStrix z270i 1xnoctua l9i 1xsilverstone SFX-LG 500W 1x dual ram G.Skill RGB 3200mhz cl 16. and of course the Dan a4 SFX case...now my question is... how much of a CPU overclock I could potentially be looking at if I buy an i7 7700k 4.2 Ghz processor and which 1080ti would you guys recommend...since I don`t have as much as cooling...I assume I have to get to a Founders Card...however I am concerned about noise & throttling...I'd be glad for suggestions! As for the hard drive, i`m gonna stick with a Samsung 960 Evo 500gb drive (m.2) until i can afford the second stick i believe it will do the job.
Click to expand...

Stay away from founder editions and Titans, they are both poor value
 
pedrofan said:
I've just installed this 22 cores beast inside A4-SFX.

Cpu: Xeon E5-2696 V4 (It's the same as Broadwell-E E5-2699 V4 but OEM, to be part of a branded server, and 1/4 of the price on ebay).

Cinebench: 2838cb

Cores: 22
Threads: 44
Base: 2,2 ghz
Turbo all cores: 2,65ghz
Turbo 3.0 one core: 3,6ghz

It combines multi core performance for rendering (my main purpose) and one core 3,6ghz turbo boost for gaming.


I've used an ASROCK X99E-ITX AC motherboard and it's working flawlesly.
Heatisnk: Dynatron T-318 + TY-100 Fan
Click to expand...
Holy cow.
 
illram said:
I can sum up the cooling options thusly:

1. Delid. Then choose whatever you want! Or;
2. LP53 + slim Noctua 92mm fan. Best performance with least hassle. Kind of expensive.
3. Nexus Cooler is a good performer but very hard to find and you have to modify the heatsink and IIRC also buy a slim fan, so it is very expensive.


Then all the rest. Pick your poison. C7 = OK performance but wonky backplate mounting leads to mixed results, and it's super loud as its right next to the side panel. L9i is quieter but not really a good option for the 7600K or 7700K and with those chips you will throttle if you don't delid.
Click to expand...

I think it will be good to have some kind of cooling post linked in the first post. It may avoid people asking the same question over and over again.
And thanks illram
 
For those that are going with AMD Ryzen for their Dan A4 builds, are you going ryzen 1600 or 1800? Also, what overclocks you think will be achievable with a cooler like the lp53 with slim fan? I was hoping perhaps 3.7 GHz and maybe 3.8GHz.
 
pedrofan said:
I've just installed this 22 cores beast inside A4-SFX.

Cpu: Xeon E5-2696 V4 (It's the same as Broadwell-E E5-2699 V4 but OEM, to be part of a branded server, and 1/4 of the price on ebay).

Cinebench: 2838cb

Cores: 22
Threads: 44
Base: 2,2 ghz
Turbo all cores: 2,65ghz
Turbo 3.0 one core: 3,6ghz

It combines multi core performance for rendering (my main purpose) and one core 3,6ghz turbo boost for gaming.


I've used an ASROCK X99E-ITX AC motherboard and it's working flawlesly.
Heatisnk: Dynatron T-318 + TY-100 Fan

1.jpg
1.jpg
Click to expand...
Upload pics of the completed build my dude
 
Wazzuppi said:
Stay away from founder editions and Titans, they are both poor value
Click to expand...
Thanks for this piece of advice. How does a standard radiator GPU perform? After doing hours of research everyone seems to have their own opinion. Most of those are that blower style GPUs could potentially be a better fit. On the other hand, you are right about the prices and custom GPUs do perform a better value. I`m gonna watch out for a Gtx 1080ti custom with a blower style fan... this may be the conclusion.
 
Is there a German based deliding service? I`m not too fond of my own deliding skillset... (no skillset at all)..
 
pionir said:
Is there a German based deliding service?
Click to expand...

I know there are a hand of people offering delidding cpus in the german computerbase.de-forums - of course without any warranty etc.

Remembering my first delid it was quiet exiting, never modded a computer part myself before. So I read articles, watched videoguides and chose an old cpu for practicing. Fortunately everything went fine and I really improved temps on my old 3570K, very satisfying after all^^

I'd encourage you to try it after a bit of "pre-work", imho it's worth the effort.
 
I did some tests because of my problem that the Asus z270i won't boot the first time after plugging in power:
After I needed to reset bios because XMP does not work, I set my old cpu settings (multiplier 39, -0,08 V offset) one stepp after the other and unplugged power between for a few minutes. But I could not reproduce the problem and I can don't have a boot problem any more. Maybe that solves the problem for those who have the same.

I have not seen any high temperatures in HWInfo on my Asus z270i. Have only one reading at about 70°C highest (I think to remember it does not change over time). But the >100°C sound like a false reading.

pionir said:
Is there a German based deliding service? I`m not too fond of my own deliding skillset... (no skillset at all)..
Click to expand...
I also did my first delid and it was quite easy. I bought a razor blade (blades on both sides) and liquid metal, prepared cleaning alcohol and a piece of cloth to clean the thermal paste.
- I cut the razor blade in two and put electrical tape on the one side to have a save grip, leave about 5 to 10 mm of the blade visible.
- I used a tissue to hold the cpu with one hand and used the razor blade to cut between the heat spreader and board, starting at one edge. Don't cut too far in the direction of the die.
- Do this for all 4 sides until the heat spreader can be rotated slightly (only stickes to the board by the thermal paste)
- Remove the heat spreader and clean the die (+ board) and heat spreader from thermal paste and heat spreader glue. I used the razor blade to carefully remove the glue.
- Apply liquid metal as described on the package
- Mound the cpu board on the motherboard and but the removed heatspreader on (loose, I didn't use glue, the mounting mechanism holds it in place)

I was very nervous (hands shaking the whole delid :D ) but it was very easy. Other than cutting too deep with the razor balde (which is near impossible because of the electrical tape) I don't see any mistake you can make. It was very easy.
I would recommand to watch a few videos (intel razor blade delid), but don't watch the fails :D (or at least I didn't want to be more nervouse than I was).
If you have any farther question or want a step by step in German just google or pm me and I am happy to help :) (but I am no expert :D )
 
WarBird25 said:
I did some tests because of my problem that the Asus z270i won't boot the first time after plugging in power:
After I needed to reset bios because XMP does not work, I set my old cpu settings (multiplier 39, -0,08 V offset) one stepp after the other and unplugged power between for a few minutes. But I could not reproduce the problem and I can don't have a boot problem any more. Maybe that solves the problem for those who have the same.

I have not seen any high temperatures in HWInfo on my Asus z270i. Have only one reading at about 70°C highest (I think to remember it does not change over time). But the >100°C sound like a false reading.


I also did my first delid and it was quite easy. I bought a razor blade (blades on both sides) and liquid metal, prepared cleaning alcohol and a piece of cloth to clean the thermal paste.
- I cut the razor blade in two and put electrical tape on the one side to have a save grip, leave about 5 to 10 mm of the blade visible.
- I used a tissue to hold the cpu with one hand and used the razor blade to cut between the heat spreader and board, starting at one edge. Don't cut too far in the direction of the die.
- Do this for all 4 sides until the heat spreader can be rotated slightly (only stickes to the board by the thermal paste)
- Remove the heat spreader and clean the die (+ board) and heat spreader from thermal paste and heat spreader glue. I used the razor blade to carefully remove the glue.
- Apply liquid metal as described on the package
- Mound the cpu board on the motherboard and but the removed heatspreader on (loose, I didn't use glue, the mounting mechanism holds it in place)

I was very nervous (hands shaking the whole delid :D ) but it was very easy. Other than cutting too deep with the razor balde (which is near impossible because of the electrical tape) I don't see any mistake you can make. It was very easy.
I would recommand to watch a few videos (intel razor blade delid), but don't watch the fails :D (or at least I didn't want to be more nervouse than I was).
If you have any farther question or want a step by step in German just google or pm me and I am happy to help :) (but I am no expert :D )
Click to expand...
Thanks man. I'm probably gonna do it myself. Although i am quite anxious about ripping 340€ apart :D. Right now its gonna take time anyways since i gotta save the money. ( 230/590) done. For my m.2. 960evo 500gb & ofc the 7700k
 
WarBird25 said:
I did some tests because of my problem that the Asus z270i won't boot the first time after plugging in power:
After I needed to reset bios because XMP does not work, I set my old cpu settings (multiplier 39, -0,08 V offset) one stepp after the other and unplugged power between for a few minutes. But I could not reproduce the problem and I can don't have a boot problem any more. Maybe that solves the problem for those who have the same.
Click to expand...
Tried about 5 hours to make XMP work on z270i strix and I just couldn't make it work. How fast are your ram?

Also I wouldn't recommend using a razor blade for removing the Intel silicone as the risk is just too high.. Doesn't take much time using your nails or a old credit card to remove it safely.
 
pionir said:
Thanks for this piece of advice. How does a standard radiator GPU perform? After doing hours of research everyone seems to have their own opinion. Most of those are that blower style GPUs could potentially be a better fit. On the other hand, you are right about the prices and custom GPUs do perform a better value. I`m gonna watch out for a Gtx 1080ti custom with a blower style fan... this may be the conclusion.
Click to expand...

You're welcome to do as you decide is best, but I'll just throw a couple points out there:

1) When nvidia first released the Founders' Edition 1070 and 1080, they were $100 (USD) more expensive than the aftermarket options, and in most cases, the custom, open-air coolers performed much better.

The Founders' Edition 1070s and 1080s are now cheap as heck. In fact, a FE 1070 is the fourth cheapest 1070 you can possibly buy, and is only $20 more than the dirt cheapest (which is a 'mini' board with poor cooling.)

2) The 1080ti Founders' Edition is exactly the same price as all the aftermarket cards.

3) While open-air coolers usually perform better than blower coolers, that's if they're in a large case with a lot of airflow.

In a small-form-factor case that doesn't pack additional fans, all they will do is recirculate hot air, leading to higher CPU temps but very, very little decrease in GPU temps.

4) I'm sorry, but waiting for another company to slap a blower-style cooler on a 1080ti is a terrible idea. First, the FE card is already one of the most affordable.

Second, Nvidia put a TON of time and engineering into the FE coolers; they run far quieter and perform WAY better than reference cards ever did in the past.

By waiting for another company to put a blower style cooler on a 1080ti (which is probably unlikely anyways), all you'd be doing is saving about $20 (on a $700 card) to get a way noisier cooler that doesn't perform as well.


So, to wrap it up... Good for you for doing your own research. That's the kind of drive you need to work with small-form-factor computers. Unfortunately, a lot of that research comes from either before Nvidia reworked their reference design to be what it is now, or from when Pascal was first released, when FE cards really were poor value.
 
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darksable said:
You're welcome to do as you decide is best, but I'll just throw a couple points out there:

1) When nvidia first released the Founders' Edition 1070 and 1080, they were $100 (USD) more expensive than the aftermarket options, and in most cases, the custom, open-air coolers performed much better.

The Founders' Edition 1070s and 1080s are now cheap as heck. In fact, a FE 1070 is the fourth cheapest 1070 you can possibly buy, and is only $20 more than the dirt cheapest (which is a 'mini' board with poor cooling.)

2) The 1080ti Founders' Edition is exactly the same price as all the aftermarket cards.

3) While open-air coolers usually perform better than blower coolers, that's if they're in a large case with a lot of airflow.

In a small-form-factor case that doesn't pack additional fans, all they will do is recirculate hot air, leading to higher CPU temps but very, very little decrease in GPU temps.

4) I'm sorry, but waiting for another company to slap a blower-style cooler on a 1080ti is a terrible idea. First, the FE card is already one of the most affordable.

Second, Nvidia put a TON of time and engineering into the FE coolers; they run far quieter and perform WAY better than reference cards ever did in the past.

By waiting for another company to put a blower style cooler on a 1080ti (which is probably unlikely anyways), all you'd be doing is saving about $20 (on a $700 card) to get a way noisier cooler that doesn't perform as well.


So, to wrap it up... Good for you for doing your own research. That's the kind of drive you need to work with small-form-factor computers. Unfortunately, a lot of that research comes from either before Nvidia reworked their reference design to be what it is now, or from when Pascal was first released, when FE cards really were poor value.
Click to expand...
I feel lucky to be unable to buy any gpu so far^^ therefore i got spare time to make the best decision. Btw. I am planning to squeeze in additional small formfactor fans such as a bequiet! 8mm one. By fixing it with magnets i believe it could work.
 
Today I ordered a Asetec 545LC - 92mm AIO and 2011-3 retention kit for the new A4-SFX v2 sample that I will get end of April.
As you maybe know the A4-SFX v2 will have a mountpoint for a 92mm fan under the PSU. If you use a noraml SFX PSU you will be able to mount the AIO with the Noctua A9x14 fan.
I will test if this will be the new cooling king inside the A4 :)

By the way the radiator is 30mm thick


http://www.asetek.com/desktop/oem-cpu-coolers/545lc/

545lc.jpg
 
pionir said:
I feel lucky to be unable to buy any gpu so far^^ therefore i got spare time to make the best decision. Btw. I am planning to squeeze in additional small formfactor fans such as a bequiet! 8mm one. By fixing it with magnets i believe it could work.
Click to expand...

Hot glue is also a surprisingly valuable tool when it comes to computers. It provides some vibration dampening and better adhesion if you move your computer a lot. If you don't, then magnets should work perfectly well. :)
 
CknSalad said:
For those that are going with AMD Ryzen for their Dan A4 builds, are you going ryzen 1600 or 1800? Also, what overclocks you think will be achievable with a cooler like the lp53 with slim fan? I was hoping perhaps 3.7 GHz and maybe 3.8GHz.
Click to expand...

This will be very interesting to watch. I see load temps on air between 83-88. Wonder how they will react in this case....
 
dondan said:
Today I ordered a Asetec 545LC - 92mm AIO and 2011-3 retention kit for the new A4-SFX v2 sample that I will get end of April.
As you maybe know the A4-SFX v2 will have a mountpoint for a 92mm fan under the PSU. If you use a noraml SFX PSU you will be able to mount the AIO with the Noctua A9x14 fan.
I will test if this will be the new cooling king inside the A4 :)

By the way the radiator is 30mm thick


http://www.asetek.com/desktop/oem-cpu-coolers/545lc/

545lc.jpg
Click to expand...
This area is too tight in the current design or are you just adding brackets?
 
readeh said:
Tried about 5 hours to make XMP work on z270i strix and I just couldn't make it work. How fast are your ram?

Also I wouldn't recommend using a razor blade for removing the Intel silicone as the risk is just too high.. Doesn't take much time using your nails or a old credit card to remove it safely.
Click to expand...

I got my z270i strix working with tridentz 32gb (16x2) 3600 with xmp. I disabled the recommendations for the cpu for now, still getting the cold boot issue every time i cut power, maybe a bios update will fix it...
 
Those having problem with xmp on the z270i strix. Try undervolting. My ram would run and then crash as soon as temps rose too much. Went from 1.35v to 1.275 and now it's rock solid at 3000mhz during prime bench, tomb raider benchmark with everything in ultra including the hair at 1080p (that one was super heavy on my ram) and Aida 64
 
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Undervolting the RAM on the Strix worked for me also (thanks for that suggestion a while back), but when I undervolted the CPU I had to put the RAM back up to 1.35 to stay at 3000Mhz to avoid page fault BSODs. Still seems solid in that configuration. Definitely some wonky power stuff going on, which happens with first runs of new boards I suppose.
 
illram said:
Undervolting the RAM on the Strix worked for me also (thanks for that suggestion a while back), but when I undervolted the CPU I had to put the RAM back up to 1.35 to stay at 3000Mhz to avoid page fault BSODs. Still seems solid in that configuration. Definitely some wonky power stuff going on, which happens with first runs of new boards I suppose.
Click to expand...
I have yet to try undervolting either. That's hopefully a project for this weekend. The strange thing for mine that I noted above was that it only issues posting with XMP profile enabled when I updated the BIOS. (I know, I know...don't upgrade BIOS unless something's wrong. I couldn't resist temptation!)
 
mcheddadi said:
Those having problem with xmp on the z270i strix. Try undervolting. My ram would run and then crash as soon as temps rose too much. Went from 1.35v to 1.275 and now it's rock solid at 3000mhz during prime bench, tomb raider benchmark with everything in ultra including the hair at 1080p (that one was super heavy on my ram) and Aida 64
Click to expand...
Was that while you were having posting issues in general or just on cold boot? If I keep cycling power eventually it posts and then boots again and again with no problems.

barvis said:
I have yet to try undervolting either. That's hopefully a project for this weekend. The strange thing for mine that I noted above was that it only issues posting with XMP profile enabled when I updated the BIOS. (I know, I know...don't upgrade BIOS unless something's wrong. I couldn't resist temptation!)
Click to expand...

I was trying to remember if I had these issues before upgrading BIOS, I thought I did, but now i'm not so sure, might try rolling them back
 
maven1975 said:
Would love to know how thermals and sound is when under load.

That's a beast for productivity!

Hmmm.. 1 core at 3.6. Wonder how that translates to others 7700ks.

Interesting build you have there to say the least :)
Click to expand...
alishakyol said:
Upload pics of the completed build my dude
Click to expand...

Here It is, the 22 core Xeon e5-2696 build.

Thermals with the case closed and fully loaded while rendering a very complex 4k scene in vray of my own (ambient temp 23ºC):

· E5-2696 22Cores 2,2 Ghz base + Dynatron-318 + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut + TY100 fan at 100% speed = 82ºC

· i7 5820k 6 Cores 3,3 Ghz base + Dynatron-318 + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut + TY100 fan at 100% speed = 67ºC


I've used a 100% fan speed profile for these tests. For normal using I set a profile like this: 50º 45% 60º 60% 75º 100% 80º 100%. Most of the time it is barely audible, my current temp while writing this post is 50ºC with 45% fan speed.


I also have the Cooljag Falcon II but I went with the dynatron as it mounts more sercurely (there isn't a native 2011-3 narrow bracket for the cooljag) and it performs just the same in my testings. The only benefit of the Cooljag is that it is more silent as the fan is behind it.

Next week I hope I'll receive Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal. I'll post the results.

1.jpg
 
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Ratzes said:
Was that while you were having posting issues in general or just on cold boot? If I keep cycling power eventually it posts and then boots again and again with no problems.
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I didn't have posting issues, but when I was troubleshooting the ram voltage and the CPU multiplayer if it crashed sometimes when restarting I had to wait like 1 or two minutes juste to see the boot logo. I'm thinking with the UEFI bioses it does checks with crash files from the OS or it checks the ram completely or does some sort of selfcheckup. Disable the boot animation and maybe enable a diagnosis mode to see if it's really having posting issues or just taking a long time to post. I tell you, sometimes I waited like 5 minutes after a wrong bios setting or a too high overclock before it would post anything on the screen. But as as soon a the settings were ok in the bios it worked like a champ every time. Try disabling the compability support module option also. It's on by default and on win 10 it just slows everything down a bit
 
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