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DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

tried some benchmarks with intel's latest raid rst raid drivers.

0jChySJ.jpg


the write performance is quite faster in raid0 mode compared to a single 256gb 960 evo nvme SSD

anybody else wanna try their 960 ssd pro or evo to compare?
 
Ozymandias

Cool setup, do you have your cpu undervolted or underclocked? I'm getting an average of 68C while gaming for 4+ hours.

At the moment, I have my 5820K mildly overclocked to 4.0 GHz, at 1.13 V. Depending on the game, the CPU tops out at mid 70s to about 82C, but it's flirting with thermal throttling under stress tests or rendering. This is with a T318 and TY100 fan, not the linked 92mm AIO cooler from my earlier post. When I'm rendering, I back down to stock BIOS settings with all core turbo to stay away from thermal throttling (70C-75C for hours).
 
HAHAHA!

I walked into the store and grabbed it immediately. It didn't dawn on me that it could possibly be to wide. I have used reference cards the last few years and am completely blown away with the size these things have gotten to be. Just INSANE!

So, as punishment and a treat to the community, I just ordered a Titan Xp.

View attachment 21304


Stay tuned....
Not trying to tell you how to spend your money, but you could buy a complete seperate system for the difference in money you paid for that titan xp.
 
Is anyone interested in swapping my black for a silver case?

Perferrably living in vancouver BC?
 
Not trying to tell you how to spend your money, but you could buy a complete seperate system for the difference in money you paid for that titan xp.
Absolutely correct!

I know it's expensive and probably too hot to work. We shall see...

This coming from a guy that paid through the nose on eBay (me) for this tiny metal box with no PSU

Could have bought several silverstone SG13s for that too :)
 
Absolutely correct!

I know it's expensive and probably too hot to work. We shall see...

This coming from a guy that paid through the nose on eBay (me) for this tiny metal box with no PSU

Could have bought several silverstone SG13s for that too :)
The stock TI makes my A4 case a lavabox and its supposed to average 12 degrees cooler than this Xp, good luck.
 
View attachment 21296 It's here!!!

I won't have my case until tomorrow, but this thing is GIGANTIC!!

Seriously doubt it's gonna fit :/

Still have my unopened Founders Edition Ti. I am really hoping this Strix will fit because I want a quieter solution.

MSI is having issues with their firmware locking the fans at 2000rpm. I remember seeing someone on this thread stating it was like a heater. That's probably the reason :)

UPDATE- Ugh!

After doing the math... it looks like the card is 7.5mm to wide. That stinks!!!!!

Could you do me a favor? I know for a fact that the lid won't close...

I would like to see it installed in the case, if you could take some pictures in different angles it would be awesome...

I'm about to do a custom "spacer" between the case and the lids, and i was thinking to get this gpu...

Please!!! You would do me a great favor...
 
Absolutely correct!

I know it's expensive and probably too hot to work. We shall see...

This coming from a guy that paid through the nose on eBay (me) for this tiny metal box with no PSU

Could have bought several silverstone SG13s for that too :)
The stock TI makes my A4 case a lavabox and its supposed to average 12 degrees cooler than this Xp, good luck.
 
for anyone wanting to try the beta 64bit Intel RST(e) AHCI/RAID Drivers v15.5.0.1047 for their raid setup. disable the FASTSTARTUP option in win10 otherwise you won't be able to shutdown your pc. tried some benchmarks again, and I can safely say that RAID0 is definitely faster than one single nvme ssd and cheaper than buying a bigger equivalent size.

Kmcl2Ko.jpg
 
Don't know if anyone can help with this, but i'm trying to get my system together and my Z270i refuses to post. Turns on, LED's light up, cpu fan spins... and nothing. No beeps, nothing on the screen.

I'm using Corsair SF600, Vengeance LPX 3200 (C16) 2x16 ram, and 7700K.

Does anyone know what the issue may be? I'm wondering if it's a defunct board.
 
What color LED's light up? Does just rebooting by holding down the power to turn it off then on again do anything? I was having similar issues although simply rebooting did the trick.

For me I think I narrowed it down to having something to do with disconnecting the power to the board. First boot after reconnecting the PSU/switching the PSU on, I always get a red CPU LED. Didn't matter what I did--run stock, turn off XMP, undervolt, use different RAM...always happened. I need to boot the board two, sometimes three times. After that it works normally. This was happening quite often when I was first putting stuff together and tinkering, haven't retested it to see if it still is happening. Don't know if that is going to help you or not.
 
What color LED's light up? Does just rebooting by holding down the power to turn it off then on again do anything? I was having similar issues although simply rebooting did the trick.

For me I think I narrowed it down to having something to do with disconnecting the power to the board. First boot after reconnecting the PSU/switching the PSU on, I always get a red CPU LED. Didn't matter what I did--run stock, turn off XMP, undervolt, use different RAM...always happened. I need to boot the board two, sometimes three times. After that it works normally. This was happening quite often when I was first putting stuff together and tinkering, haven't retested it to see if it still is happening. Don't know if that is going to help you or not.

Ah! I managed to fix it. I think it was a faulty dvi cable. i switch to an hdmi and it worked. kind of annoyed with myself i didn't try that before dismantling everything a few times before i tried that...
 
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Ah! I managed to fix it. I think it was a faulty dvi cable. i switch to an hdmi and it worked. kind of annoyed with myself i didn't try that before dismantling everything a few times before i tried that...
I had trouble with it not posting either. Like illram, a reboot sometimes did it. Although, I recently updated to the latest BIOS, tried to set the XMP profile and could not get it to post. I downgraded back to the original BIOS and all is good for now at least.

Now if I can figure out the supposed high default voltage stuff when I finally get some free time!
 
tried some benchmarks with intel's latest raid rst raid drivers.

0jChySJ.jpg


the write performance is quite faster in raid0 mode compared to a single 256gb 960 evo nvme SSD

anybody else wanna try their 960 ssd pro or evo to compare?

Your getting 3.1GB Read? Im getting 3.2 with a single 960 evo
 
Some news regarding the EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3

The dimensions listed on EVGA's site for the card dimensions keeps changing!!!

When it was first announced, the length was listed as 268mm which was obviously wrong

A while later I saw it update to 284mm (or thereabouts). At that point, confident it would fit, I decided to preorder it

Now I check the site again and the length is now 299.4mm!!! Where the Dan A4 lists up to 295mm!!!

http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6696-KR

Is it so hard to measure out a product that you sell, especially for one of the top GPU manufacturer brands? I find this totally ridiculous

OK so I opened up my Dan A4 and measured it. Worst case scenario, measuring from the PCI slot plate to the front wall, I'm seeing about 303-304mm. And a little more than 299.4mm from the FTW3. That seems quite a bit more than the 295mm published spec. Seems like it will be a very tight fit, but it still could fit
 
for anyone wanting to try the beta 64bit Intel RST(e) AHCI/RAID Drivers v15.5.0.1047 for their raid setup. disable the FASTSTARTUP option in win10 otherwise you won't be able to shutdown your pc. tried some benchmarks again, and I can safely say that RAID0 is definitely faster than one single nvme ssd and cheaper than buying a bigger equivalent size.

Kmcl2Ko.jpg
Indeed, but what you fail to mention as a drawback is that you can't use Samsung SSD Magician anymore, so you can't activate RAPID mode and generally manage the drives (update firmware, etc...).
 
So it is possible to eliminate the Ti throttling in the A4. I was hitting 84c on my FE Ti but by just upping my fan curve to a very aggressive 60% cap I eliminated throttling (maxing out at 78c now) and saw concistent increases in scores in Firestrike, FS Ultra, PassMark, and +8.3 FPS in Unigine Heaven. I ran a bunch of tests to be sure I was not seeing random variations.

I found if it the fan was set to really ramp up to 60% really quickly, I could cap it there rather than go higher. The default curve is just too slow and once it hits its 50% cap, it's too late, and the voltages never go back up to boost speeds. (1.063v). At 60% I see it hitting 1.063v more consistently and when it lowers it is still staying in that range (1.031 minimum when stressed at max temp, which is now high 70's) and can maintain boost clocks. The fan is of course even more obnoxious (~3000 RPM) but the PC has not flown away yet, I'll report back if it does...
 
Indeed, but what you fail to mention as a drawback is that you can't use Samsung SSD Magician anymore, so you can't activate RAPID mode and generally manage the drives (update firmware, etc...).
I'm pretty sure you can do rapid mode with the ramcache II app that come with the strix Mobo. And you can always manually update the firmwares. But I guess for the less technically inclined it could be a turn off.
 
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What color LED's light up? Does just rebooting by holding down the power to turn it off then on again do anything? I was having similar issues although simply rebooting did the trick.

For me I think I narrowed it down to having something to do with disconnecting the power to the board. First boot after reconnecting the PSU/switching the PSU on, I always get a red CPU LED. Didn't matter what I did--run stock, turn off XMP, undervolt, use different RAM...always happened. I need to boot the board two, sometimes three times. After that it works normally. This was happening quite often when I was first putting stuff together and tinkering, haven't retested it to see if it still is happening. Don't know if that is going to help you or not.

Same here. Since I set the multiplier in Bios I need to boot twice after switching on power. Bios settings run perfectly stable after boot. Haven't tried to set the multiplier to default because I like how it runs at the moment (except this problem).
 

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Edit: I can also confirm that it does not have a backplate.

I put this exact card in my case:

GREAT! What I dislike is that the white skin makes it visible from outside, but It's the only 1080 ti with three fans that's available that also fits in a4.sfx.

I don't know if I'll wait for the FTW 3 or going for this now.
 
Great to hear dondan.

Are you planning on handling delivery similarly for the second run? I.e. doing it primarily yourself?
 
Time to whip out the RGB gaming master race accesories :)
RGB mechanical keyboard plus mouse

1JWTX3W.jpg


Now i need some games
 
I was an early backer on the Kickstarter campaign and I have to say this is a great case. Aside from a few hiccups with the delivery processes it was perfect.

The Cryorig C7 fit on my GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 with the backplate after some modification with my jigsaw. I look forward to swapping fans in order to quiet things down.

The V2 looks like it has some great improvements and will certainly be a good buy.
 

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http://sxdcool.com/free-shipping-de...-pwm-intelligent-fan-speed-control_p5314.html
Anyone going to buy this 20mm thick fan for a test? It's $50 delivery for me to Ireland, also I don't have a lp53 to test it on so I'm not buying one now...

Obviously I'm wondering how it will perform with standard stand-offs considering it's 20mm thick. Interested in how it works with 4 mm stand-offs too...

Being able to spin up to 3000 could be handy when rendering or stress testing or just on a really hot day! You can always limit it down to ~2000 if its too noisy but regardless it should have much better static pressure than a 14mm fan, it's 42% thicker!
 
it would be really helpful if there is a list of the cpu cooling options along with a brief conclusion.
The cooling discussion is so long and took so much time that I cannot remember all of it. And worst it's spread across so many pages (thanks to delivery comments).
if someone has an elephant memory, I'd be grateful he could write up a summary. Else I guess I'll have to go through the pages again.
 
it would be really helpful if there is a list of the cpu cooling options along with a brief conclusion.
The cooling discussion is so long and took so much time that I cannot remember all of it. And worst it's spread across so many pages (thanks to delivery comments).
if someone has an elephant memory, I'd be grateful he could write up a summary. Else I guess I'll have to go through the pages again.
There is a link to Dan's cooling results in the first post, it's still pretty informative but perhaps it could do with an update at this stage...
 
I can sum up the cooling options thusly:

1. Delid. Then choose whatever you want! Or;
2. LP53 + slim Noctua 92mm fan. Best performance with least hassle. Kind of expensive.
3. Nexus Cooler is a good performer but very hard to find and you have to modify the heatsink and IIRC also buy a slim fan, so it is very expensive.


Then all the rest. Pick your poison. C7 = OK performance but wonky backplate mounting leads to mixed results, and it's super loud as its right next to the side panel. L9i is quieter but not really a good option for the 7600K or 7700K and with those chips you will throttle if you don't delid.
 
I can sum up the cooling options thusly:

1. Delid. Then choose whatever you want! Or;
2. LP53 + slim Noctua 92mm fan. Best performance with least hassle. Kind of expensive..

Hey, iilram. Can you please post your system specs and idle/max temps? IIRC from reading the thread, you're on a 7700k with LP53+A4, but what temps? I assume you delidded, what thermal paste did you use on both?
 
Delidded 7700k, Liquid ultra on ihs, kryonaut between heatsink, and L9i

Before Delid - max 88c
After Delid - max 80c

Not exactly the 12-15c i heard quoted by many people but i think its down to the cooler, its just too small to hold the heat.
The plus side is just gaming on arma3 and dota 2 the cpu sits around 60c. Nice and cool.
 
Also delidded my 7700k@4.5 GHz (liquid pro) and with the L9i (kryonaut) I get temps up to 77°C (I/O shield removed).

Delidding and good quality thermal paste improve temps A LOT!
I'm looking forward to DANs new cooler, I believe temps may further decrease with it in my setup.
 
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Delidded here at 4.6GHz. 4.8Ghz@1.28V was stable only outside of the dan a4 on the test bench (max temp 78deg) Once mounted in the case, with no GPU, it was stable at 4.7GHZ@1.25V (about 82deg max temp). Using a temporary gtx 970 mini, battlefield 1 would crash in between rounds (when the next level was loading and CPU load was highest). So I backed it down to 4.6GHZ@1.22V and now its stable again. Worked fine overnight with a Heaven loop and Intel CPU stress test running concurrently. Saw max temps of 90degrees. The heat dump from a maxed out GPU has an alarming effect on overall temperatures. Note: I live in a very hot country, ambient temps were 30deg C during testing with no air circulating in or around the computer done on purpose for a 'worst case scenario'. i use the C7 heatsink with the Noctua fan. This case traps a LOT of heat. It is hot enough to nearly cause great discomfort when i rest my hand on the top rear portion of the case. I consider delidding almost a must if you want to use the 7700K unless you live in a very cool country. I am curious how it will fare when my 1080Ti FTW3 arrrives..which is a pretty hot gpu.
 
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So my current parts for my upcoming build include 1xStrix z270i 1xnoctua l9i 1xsilverstone SFX-LG 500W 1x dual ram G.Skill RGB 3200mhz cl 16. and of course the Dan a4 SFX case...now my question is... how much of a CPU overclock I could potentially be looking at if I buy an i7 7700k 4.2 Ghz processor and which 1080ti would you guys recommend...since I don`t have as much as cooling...I assume I have to get to a Founders Card...however I am concerned about noise & throttling...I'd be glad for suggestions! As for the hard drive, i`m gonna stick with a Samsung 960 Evo 500gb drive (m.2) until i can afford the second stick i believe it will do the job.
 
Guys...

I think I have found a very concerning flaw in this case. I was checking out all of my temps on my HWINFO and came upon my Motherboard Temps... 114 Celcius... Now I don't know where this sensor is (I have a Asus Z170i Pro Gaming) so just want to hear from ya'll if you could help identify where the heat could be building up?

Is this even acceptable temps?

Can ya'll check your temps for me please?
 

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