don't know what you guys are on about. I got the sf450 and it's the most silent thing in my system. never turns it's fans on, as my gpu, a zotac 1070 gtx amp edition, both are silent, the fans never spin even underload it takes a little while for them to activate and then they are silent. try to free up some space bellow them like I did. maybe it help in convecting the heat with fresh outside air..
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DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world
- Thread starter dondan
- Start date
don't know what you guys are on about. I got the sf450 and it's the most silent thing in my system. never turns it's fans on, as my gpu, a zotac 1070 gtx amp edition, both are silent, the fans never spin even underload it takes a little while for them to activate and then they are silent. try to free up some space bellow them like I did. maybe it help in convecting the heat with fresh outside air..
Same here... I can't hear a thing unless I'm playing a game and that's when the gpu fans kick in. Otherwise it's dead silent - no fans running at all with just normal internet/email etc usage.
Ok, I've managed to mount the Cooljag Falcon II on my asrock X99E-ITX AC motherboard inside the DAN A4-SFX for my X99 build.
I didn´t cut the thermalright narrow bracket as jb1 did in other post, because it perfectly fits with the parts that I've used.
Here you have the process explained by pictures.
All the parts that I've used
Screw in the corsair separators
Mount the plate on them this way, and screw in the nuts
I didn't put the top plate as i dont think it does anything, if the fins on it are cut. I put the APX100 mounting plate upside down like a "U" but you can put it the other way. I also put some rubber tape between the fan and the radiator for noise reducing.
I managed to screw in the plate with a small flat screwdriver through the fins, although the screws are philips. At the end I bent the fins back to be straight. (be careful, before screwing through the fins, bend them to have enough space to operate with the screwdriver without touching them, because it can scratch them while screwing and some metal dust may fall onto the motherboard and it can make a short)
If you can find something else to put instead of that nuts, they hit the pipes in the right (as you can see in the picture) a little and I didn't like it.
As you can see on the left I've used some thin thread to hook the fan, as the bridles are too thick and the case won't close. I will exchange it with nylon thread.
That's all, the radiator fits perfectly with the case closed and with my tall corsair vengeance ram modules.
Post Data:
I put the the stock wifi antenna that came with the motherboard where the hdd bracket is placed (under the power supply) and it works perfectly with the case closed, so the myth of the faraday box does not apply in this case (although some signal bars are lost for sure when you are so far from the router).
I didn´t cut the thermalright narrow bracket as jb1 did in other post, because it perfectly fits with the parts that I've used.
Here you have the process explained by pictures.
All the parts that I've used
Screw in the corsair separators
Mount the plate on them this way, and screw in the nuts
I didn't put the top plate as i dont think it does anything, if the fins on it are cut. I put the APX100 mounting plate upside down like a "U" but you can put it the other way. I also put some rubber tape between the fan and the radiator for noise reducing.
I managed to screw in the plate with a small flat screwdriver through the fins, although the screws are philips. At the end I bent the fins back to be straight. (be careful, before screwing through the fins, bend them to have enough space to operate with the screwdriver without touching them, because it can scratch them while screwing and some metal dust may fall onto the motherboard and it can make a short)
If you can find something else to put instead of that nuts, they hit the pipes in the right (as you can see in the picture) a little and I didn't like it.
As you can see on the left I've used some thin thread to hook the fan, as the bridles are too thick and the case won't close. I will exchange it with nylon thread.
That's all, the radiator fits perfectly with the case closed and with my tall corsair vengeance ram modules.
Post Data:
I put the the stock wifi antenna that came with the motherboard where the hdd bracket is placed (under the power supply) and it works perfectly with the case closed, so the myth of the faraday box does not apply in this case (although some signal bars are lost for sure when you are so far from the router).
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And here are the results of the Cooljag Falcon II.
I compared the temps with my h75i liquid cooling kit inside my previous case, the silverstone sugo SG-13
And with the Dynatron T-318 with several fan configs.
The benchmarked cpu is an i7 5820K, and I used a Vray complex scene of my own (always the same) as prime 95 gets hotter than in any scenario that I've seen in my daily workflow.
Note: "Pull" means that the fan is oriented towards the outside >I , while "push" is to the inside <I
As you can see there is no noticeable difference between the Cooljag Falcon II and the Dynatron T-318 in vertical position with the side closed, although it is bigger, more expensive and so much complicated to mount in.
The only benefit came when the case was in horizontal position. I think that the pipes are designed to be used in that way, and the heated gas cannot flow through the fins very well when the case is vertical.
So I rather recommend going for the Dynatron t-318 with a Thermalright ty-100 fan in push configuration, you won't notice any major difference with the case closed in vetical position.
I also recommend going for the Ty-100 fan, as it has a top air flow of 44.5 CFM vs 29.6 CFM of the noctua NF-A9x14 PWM, (don't use the stock cooljag 120 x 20 mm fan; it was clearly outperformed by the ty-100).
I also noticed that at 4ghz the Falcon quickly overheated while the t-318 took more time to reach +100ºC, and it could hold sub 90ºC temps with a tower of two corsair fans put on it in push configuration.
As you may notice, bigger 120mm fans performed better in pull configuration, while the ty-100 worked better in push configuration. I repeated it several times an it didn't change the results.
>>> Pull for 120mm fans
>>> Push for sub 100mm fans
... I'm waiting for liquid metal Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut thermal paste to bench it with both heatsinks. I will post the results then.
I compared the temps with my h75i liquid cooling kit inside my previous case, the silverstone sugo SG-13
And with the Dynatron T-318 with several fan configs.
The benchmarked cpu is an i7 5820K, and I used a Vray complex scene of my own (always the same) as prime 95 gets hotter than in any scenario that I've seen in my daily workflow.
Note: "Pull" means that the fan is oriented towards the outside >I , while "push" is to the inside <I
As you can see there is no noticeable difference between the Cooljag Falcon II and the Dynatron T-318 in vertical position with the side closed, although it is bigger, more expensive and so much complicated to mount in.
The only benefit came when the case was in horizontal position. I think that the pipes are designed to be used in that way, and the heated gas cannot flow through the fins very well when the case is vertical.
So I rather recommend going for the Dynatron t-318 with a Thermalright ty-100 fan in push configuration, you won't notice any major difference with the case closed in vetical position.
I also recommend going for the Ty-100 fan, as it has a top air flow of 44.5 CFM vs 29.6 CFM of the noctua NF-A9x14 PWM, (don't use the stock cooljag 120 x 20 mm fan; it was clearly outperformed by the ty-100).
I also noticed that at 4ghz the Falcon quickly overheated while the t-318 took more time to reach +100ºC, and it could hold sub 90ºC temps with a tower of two corsair fans put on it in push configuration.
As you may notice, bigger 120mm fans performed better in pull configuration, while the ty-100 worked better in push configuration. I repeated it several times an it didn't change the results.
>>> Pull for 120mm fans
>>> Push for sub 100mm fans
... I'm waiting for liquid metal Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut thermal paste to bench it with both heatsinks. I will post the results then.
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EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 product page has been posted:
http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6696-KR
They don't specify how thick the card is but it looks to be a standard two slot given this image:
That combined with the ~270mm length makes me hopeful this will fit in our favorite case. Thoughts?
http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6696-KR
They don't specify how thick the card is but it looks to be a standard two slot given this image:
That combined with the ~270mm length makes me hopeful this will fit in our favorite case. Thoughts?
I'm counting on it fitting. Seems to be the best option so far.
jtcera
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2010
- Messages
- 92
I'm only happy with my cooljag when I run without a side panel and dual fan push/pull setup with a 14mm noctua pushing outwards and 120mm mounted on the outside pulling. While playing Wildlands for 2 hours max temps on 7700k delid are 81C. Best results yet versus no side panel C7 and L9i. My last test is with the LP53. I'm hoping to settle on the LP53 with a closed case eventually. Numbers I'm seeing with the LP53 seem to be a bit better than the L9i and considering there will be no turbulence issues with the side panel, I think that'll be my final cooler.
Blackreplica
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2016
- Messages
- 205
EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 product page has been posted:
http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6696-KR
They don't specify how thick the card is but it looks to be a standard two slot given this image:
That combined with the ~270mm length makes me hopeful this will fit in our favorite case. Thoughts?
Thats great to see. 270mm should be more than fine for the Dan A4 regardless how the manufacturer measures it. This card just became my top choice for my dan A4. It's the only triple fan design which isn't 2.5 slot I've seen thus far
Went to a LAN party and the case and bag is such an amazing combination.
Where I use to carry a backpack on my back, monitor and keyboard in one hand and case wrapped in DIY washing-line handle in the other hand, I now have everything but monitor on my shoulder and monitor in one hand.
Big thanks to DonDan!
So is there absolutely no space for these thicker cards? I'll use what ever works, but I recall reading that video card length compatibility had some leeway which may or may not have already been updated on the website.
Blackreplica
Limp Gawd
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- May 9, 2016
- Messages
- 205
Not sure if theres any leeway but based on the Dan A4 spec page, its strictly 2 slot with a maximum width of 45mm including the backplate. I didnt measure my case specifically but I doubt you'd have more than a couple mm extra of top of the official spec. In any case I strongly doubt if any of these monster 1080ti cards would be able to work in this case
Have managed a good undervolt on the 7700k and trident z.
Running 7700k @ 4.5 with 1.140
Running 4266 trident z @ 1.3v down from 1.4
Hitting 95 percentile on charts and beating out 7700k users on full sized boards running 4.8-5ghz. Dan case seems fine for airflow once you undervolt.
Running 7700k @ 4.5 with 1.140
Running 4266 trident z @ 1.3v down from 1.4
Hitting 95 percentile on charts and beating out 7700k users on full sized boards running 4.8-5ghz. Dan case seems fine for airflow once you undervolt.
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MintCondition
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2016
- Messages
- 8
I doubt it'll be only 270mm, there's a typo on their website because the SC2 measures 270mm in length...
illram
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2011
- Messages
- 1,473
I am getting roughly the same, hitting between 1.138-1.152 vcore at load, with stock clocks and turbo on, with a -.080v offset. My RAM (Team Vulcan 3000 Mhz) needed to get bumped up to 1.35v, and I needed to disable c3/c6 states. Idle goes as low as .736v.
I am seeing decent (5-10c) decreases in my max load temperatures, even more in my averages. On the LP53 I can safely run the A9 fan at basically silent speeds (between 300 and 1300 rpm) for almost all tasks other than gaming. My benches are all the same as when I ran them at stock everything which is to be expected as all I am doing is lowering voltages. This is all with the IO panel off. The air coming out of there is hot! It partially melted a sticker that was on my CAT5 cable. (It is not fun to smell burning plastic during stress tests....)
I delid my i5-7600k today and got an improvement of about 11 °C (and removed the io panel). Realy amazing how cool my CPU is compared to the initial build.
96 °C (before I stopped Prime): Stock CPU + io shield
74 °C (50 °C delta): Undervolted by 0,075 (to 0,960) VCore, Multiplier 39
63 °C (38°C delta): Undervolted + Multiplier 39 + delid. In idle it has about 38 °C (about 700 rpm)
I put the last two results in the spreadsheet. There is room to improve the multiplier, but for now I don't need that much CPU power. Noctua fan is silent even under load (1450 rpm)!
About the SF450: I watched the fan for a bit. After (cold) booting the fan is passiv for about 15 to 20 minutes even while running 10 minutes Prime stresstest. After that the fan is spinning nonstop at low speed (idle) which is not load, but it has a little bit of a buzz. Luky I sit to the left of the case, on the opposite side of the PSU.
I might take some pictures at the weekend, but my case is not special. No cablemod, no additional leds (only gup and z270i).
96 °C (before I stopped Prime): Stock CPU + io shield
74 °C (50 °C delta): Undervolted by 0,075 (to 0,960) VCore, Multiplier 39
63 °C (38°C delta): Undervolted + Multiplier 39 + delid. In idle it has about 38 °C (about 700 rpm)
I put the last two results in the spreadsheet. There is room to improve the multiplier, but for now I don't need that much CPU power. Noctua fan is silent even under load (1450 rpm)!
About the SF450: I watched the fan for a bit. After (cold) booting the fan is passiv for about 15 to 20 minutes even while running 10 minutes Prime stresstest. After that the fan is spinning nonstop at low speed (idle) which is not load, but it has a little bit of a buzz. Luky I sit to the left of the case, on the opposite side of the PSU.
I might take some pictures at the weekend, but my case is not special. No cablemod, no additional leds (only gup and z270i).
CknSalad
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- May 27, 2014
- Messages
- 442
You get custom length cables and if so, what were the lengths per each specific cable? Nice video btw!
LP53 arrived.
- One observation is that it had a rather interesting rubber pin mounting system for the original fan, will be interesting to see if it will be possible to re-use them in anyway - for the new fan I decide to go with.
- There are rubber pins that go through mounting holes for the fan and they have a kind of hook that makes them get stuck once threaded through the fans mounting holes.
You get custom length cables and if so, what were the lengths per each specific cable? Nice video btw!
thanks!
those arethe stock cables from the motherboard for sata and from the corsair psu for power everything. just smart routing in the front of the case and below and behind the motherboard.
you can check the build thread for more pics and one of the gpu side
Is lower delta better than higher delta?
I'm planning to undervolt as well but dont have time to test stability
Shaav
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2011
- Messages
- 163
delta = measured temperture of CPU - ambient temperature
I didn't use much time on testing, I just decreased the offset by 0,005 V and startet Prime for about 1 minute. It if worked, I decreased again, and so on. As soon as my system froze, I increaded offset by 0,005 V and run Prime for about 10 minutes (if that doesn't work, increase again by one step). After setting -0,08 V it worked fine the whole day while gaming. Maybe you shouldn't do something which might result in data loss when crashing, might be woth increasing the offset by 0,01 V from the first not stable value to be on the save side.
I wasn't able to cold boot by -0,08 V (after everything was stable) so I am not running -0,075 V.
Thats how I did it without using that much time, I hope it helps
Does anyone know what the EVGA elite member is all about? it appears you have to be "ELITE" to purchase one of their colored FTW3 cards. Its the only card that would fit my White build without voiding my warranty on a 1000CAD card by painting it.
Did somebody already post about these new SFX power supplies by FSP, available in 500W and 600W?
illram
[H]ard|Gawd
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- Sep 19, 2011
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- 1,473
Interesting. Is this Corsair or Silverstone's OEM? FSP makes a lot of other brand's supplies.
Just a heads up that it took Prime 26.6 about 4 or 5 minutes to crash when I was getting close to my final undervolt number.
Once you find your final number I would also let the computer idle overnight or with a browser window open particularly if your c states are still enabled to ensure the CPU's powersaving features are also stable.
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D
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Aren't most of those disabled when using discrete graphics?
illram
[H]ard|Gawd
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C states? I don't know. Disabling c3 and c6 let me push my undervolt a little bit more by eliminating crashes right after booting into windows. I have a GPU so it did something...
Yes. I did 150mm for the ATX cable and 300mm for the CPU and PCI-E. You could probably do 250mm for the CPU. (I did 300mm and had a little bit of slack.)
Someone earlier did their PCI-E too short, I forget if they tried 200mm or 250mm for that one.
Blackreplica
Limp Gawd
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- May 9, 2016
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- 205
yep that was me. I confirm 150mm for ATX 24 pin, 250mm for EPS 8 pin and 300mm for PCIE will be perfect for asus strix z270i combined with corsair sf600. Full details on my build are available in the build thread
200mm is pictured here for PCIE. IMO its too short unless you use the EVGA Powerlink
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Thanks for the good info! Is Cablemod still the best option with regards to quality/price, or does anyone here recommend another vendor for quality/price?
Hotshot619
n00b
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2016
- Messages
- 35
Sadly I think they are the cheapest option for custom length cables. To be honest I don't even want my cables sleeved as I just don't care, I just want them the exact size to maximize space for some 100 mm fans in the top of the case. As far as I can tell unless you want to make your own, they are the cheapest.
Agreed. I'd like custom LENGTH simple black cables for my Ncase M1, but I don't care for the sleeving options, colours, etc.
In fact, I would prefer my cables not sleeved because the sleeves just take up more room in the case. I won't complain about it looking prettier though.
As an aside, does anyone have an idea what Cablemod's fulfillment times are like these days? The email said 3-4 weeks but I'm hoping that is a conservative estimate.
Edit: Someone on reddit tipped me off that you can just buy replacement Molex pins and make the cables shorter yourself. Gonna give this a shot.
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Guys, I just tumbled over this CPU cooler, Scythe Kozuti. Said to be 40mm tall according to spec sheet.
http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/cpu-cooler/kozuti-cooler.html
Has anyone come across this and have any idea as to its performance?
Looks lika a valid choice although might be a bit low on mass(weight)?
Thoughts?
http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/cpu-cooler/kozuti-cooler.html
Has anyone come across this and have any idea as to its performance?
Looks lika a valid choice although might be a bit low on mass(weight)?
Thoughts?
Ozymandias
[H]ard|Gawd
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- Jun 21, 2004
- Messages
- 1,610
It's limited by the small fan. Scythe recommends using it for 65w processors. It puts up respectable results on Frostytech's charts but the fan is loud.
Ive seen a build of a Node202 where someone cut a window to use a full size air cooler. So I asked my, if I wanted to use the DAN case as a LAN-Case/highly portable case, how fast and comfy one can attach and deattach lets say the thermalright le grande macho. So while playing the side panel would be open and for transport just get rid of the CPU cooler. Think it would be doable?
Disregarding the fact that you'll be cleaning/re-applying thermal paste every time you put the cooler back on. You have to remove the motherboard in order to get to the backplate and mounting hardware. Maybe if you modded it in such a way that the backplate stayed in place with all the hardware back there so you just needed to tighten the screws from the front, but some cpu coolers only allow you to tighten from the rear so even this might not work.
TBH I feel like a much more practical mod would be go with water cooling and route the conduits out through a gap in the IO backplate, but I'm new to this as well and others may have a more informed opinion.
illram
[H]ard|Gawd
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- Sep 19, 2011
- Messages
- 1,473
I think the best solution for squeezing a few more cm of clearance is extending out the side panel from the frame. Just a few cm greatly increases your options for legit high performance coolers. Not Grande Macho level but good enough for a decent 7700K overclock. E.g. Rajintek Pallas, BeQuiet Shadow Rock LP (with a thinner fan), that tier. Then you could cover the gap with some modders mesh maybe or something (or just leave it). I wouldn't want to be constantly re-installing a CPU cooler. This solution also more or less maintains the overall good looks of the case, sort of.
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Do you have any extra room in the 24pin and 8pin wires? My board's positions aren't quite the same as the Strix, but based on the pictures at least it looks like you probably have enough give for at least another 15-20mm, is that correct?
illram
[H]ard|Gawd
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You can estimate just using the dimensions of the case and your motherboard. Your ITX board is going to be 170mmx170mm, so wherever the socket is on the board + the distance to the PSU + some extra mm for bends. You can also take your components or something the same size, like cardboard cut outs, sit them on a table the same distance they will be in the case, take a tape measure and literally just bend it around as if it were the wire itself.
Measure twice, buy once....