DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

Like a few others said, this hole doesn't bother me. But if you are looking for ideas here is how Lian Li does it on my old Q11. They like thumbscrews...

1bo7HFs.jpg
I like this solution. And i think the other thing to improve as already said is remove the bar between 2 expansion slot and put with the case a double bracket already mounted and a spare single bracket for a low profile GPU, or Simply 2 single bracket
 
there is no benefit to CPU temps with a 120mm fan

only a 120mm heatsink will benefit from a 120mm fan. most of the air moved out of the fan is at the edges, not the center, so a bigger fan (with a bigger hub and edges that don't hit the heatsink) could actually be worse

Case also got extremely hot lol.

that's normal for an aluminum case with hot stuff inside it. think of it acting as a very big, very weak heatsink

The GPU is by far the loadest part and spinns about 20% faster than in my old case.

unfortunately EVGA is not known to make the best coolers. try MSI next time, they have a long record of being the quietest. now you can help the sound with undervolting and underclocking the card
 
only a 120mm heatsink will benefit from a 120mm fan. most of the air moved out of the fan is at the edges, not the center, so a bigger fan (with a bigger hub and edges that don't hit the heatsink) could actually be worse

If the Scythe I tried just wasn't so dang loud, I would have kept it in there. I cooled the whole system down well.
 
only a 120mm heatsink will benefit from a 120mm fan. most of the air moved out of the fan is at the edges, not the center, so a bigger fan (with a bigger hub and edges that don't hit the heatsink) could actually be worse

Thats right! and its a double blow in the context of this case, a natural forced exhaust is possible if a low profile LP53/ L9i heatsink is used, fins orientated horizontally, no VRM heatsink on the motherboard, and no IO shield installed, then a 92mm fan will blow the hot air directly out of the case.

A 120mm disrupts that flow by mixing up the air, weakening the directed flow out the back, and increasing the chance of re-circulating that hot air.

Motherboard temps do benefit significantly though, and this would apply to a top mounted SSD if applicable.
 
Hey Dan,

If you're thinking about options for V2 of the case, a fan mounting option on the GPU side panel near the power supply would be great. It doesn't have to be much -- just screw holes.

Reason being that with shorter video cards, there's empty space there. The fan could be used as another exhaust or an intake.

I saw someone do a ghetto rig with double-sided tape, but a proper mount would be much better. If you want to get fancy, you could probably hide the screw mounts so they're only on the inside of the case.

I really like the second cover design. Much better colour ;). I think the Lian Li design is a better way to go, however. Maybe a slightly shorter screw adjustment slot.
 
I'd just like to say that building in this case was an absolute pleasure. The easiest ITX build experience I have ever had, by far. 5 stars to Dan for this case. I wish I could say the same for ASUS motherboard engineers...
 
so you just randomly drop that into this thread?! your modem is probably locked down because you owe them money.

mods should move this to a more appropriate thread
 
I have some occasional boot problems with that RAM at its XMP profile on the Strix mobo.
 
I have some occasional boot problems with that RAM at its XMP profile on the Strix mobo.

yep I had that too. disable xmp, imput manual settings and undervolt the ram to 1.2738v instead of 1.35v

now has been rock steady in aida64 stress test, prime 95 and tombraider benchmark.

took me a whole week of testing to figure it out. the ram was overheating real fast on the cramped mobo because of the cpu heatsink. the joys of troubleshooting. enjoy.

ram bros now lol.


btw do you think that would fit in the strix heatsink's place? http://www.zalman.com/contents/products/view.html?no=421
 
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I am using a laser thermometer to check the mosfet temps, but none of them went higher than 115F during prime95. They are naked right now too, I have not received my replacement low profile heatsinks. I may not even put them on... FYI my laser thermometer has a pretty big error window of about 10f just in testing around the house, but even with that they are well within their thermal limit. This is all at stock.

By the way I noticed that once in the case and with the heatpipe bends of the LP53 at the bottom of the case, fins facing out the IO panel, I am noticing a decent improvement in temperature. About 10c lower at idle vs open air and Max temp of Prime95 went down to 86c in the case, from 91c in open air! I added all of this to the spreadsheet. (What happened to that, it looks like a ton of measurements got cut?)

can you post a link to the replacement low profile mosfet heatsinks you've ordered?
 
btw do you think that would fit in the strix heatsink's place? http://www.zalman.com/contents/products/view.html?no=421
It's 93mm so probably too long. The Strix VRM heatsink (the tall one) is about 2.5" long, or 65mm. The screw holes look about 62 mm apart. The thermal pad is about 2 inches or 50.8 mm, and that's representative of the mosfets that need to be covered. I haven't taken the other one off but it's roughly the same size, possibly smaller lengthwise. Philfreeze has a picture of what is under both of the sinks in this thread somewhere. You could probably just cover each individually with some small mosfet heatsinks + sticky thermal pads.

can you post a link to the replacement low profile mosfet heatsinks you've ordered?

Check out this post from Philfreeze, he links a bunch of choices. I have the small (3.65mm tall aluminum) ones on the way.
 

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Yesterday all parts arrived (except the liquid metal for delid) so I built my system:
i5-7600k
Asus z270i
32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000
Noctua NH-L9i with NF-A9x14 fan
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0
Two Samsung EVO 960 m.2 (265GB + 1TB)
Corsair SF450

First of all, those parts are small! (except the GTX) It's my first ITX build and I am realy amazed.
Building the system was not as easy as in a big case, but it was no big deal. Needed to remove the PSU cage to install the mainboard. The advantage is, that there are not many cables (as I dont have SSDs).
I installed the mainboard io shield, but I am going to remove it as soon as I delid my CPU. Undervolting is also on the todo list.
I run ARK survival evolved for a few minutes as the pc will mostly be used for gaming and there are my first impressions (closed sidepannels, io shield on, no delid, no undervolting, NH-L9i fins parallel to ram):

- in windows (2d) the SF450 fan runs most of the time, not only while/after gaming. The air blowing out of the PSU feels like having the same temperature as the room. I don't realy know why the fan is spinning, but it is silent and I can only hear it very close. I had a look if it is the problem with the GPU backplate heating the PSU. My GPU looks like beinig a little bent, it almost touches the PSU. I put some spacers (small piece of PSU package foam, not covering the PSU/GPU back much) and let the GPU fan spin. The PSU fan was still most of the time spinning. I might try to do a better job with the spacers and see if it makes a difference
- in games this case is much loader than my old big tower. The GPU is by far the loadest part and spinns about 20% faster than in my old case. Using a power target of 70% helped a bit, but not very much. But the noise it produces is not realy annoying.
I would recommand for those who only use the pc for gaming without OC, just use the Noctua or C7 with the Noctua fan. Disabling turbo boost didn't make any noise difference, but I did not run a stress test.
- The Asus boad looks great and has many features (like the 2 m.2), but the mosfet heatsinks cover most of the heatsink. There is not much space for air to get through. If you dont mind having only one m.2 I would recommend a mainboard with much space (or as much as possible) around the CPU.
- To the case ventilation itself: While gaming it gets hot on the back top and buttom (I think the GPU heat heats those parts). It could use as much space as possible to blow air out, I think that's why removing the io shield will benefit. I think an additional fan at the top blowing out doesn't make any difference. Maybe a bigger mesh on the top would help with that a little, but maybe won't look that good
- I replaced the feet with the hifi feet suggested pages back. Putting the case on a mousepad or something similar would also reduce sliding.
- I still need to figure out where to turn off Asus auto OC, but the OC is very minimal (about 20 MHz for each core). Did not have the time to take a closer look.

So far I like the case because its so small and has much power. I think Dan did the best he could for the small format! I don't want to go back to my tower! Good work Dan, thank you for the case!
I hope there will be improved parts in the future those wo already have the case (and thereby help improving it) will also have the possibility to benefit.

Dan, maybe you can make a collection of tipps and tricks on your homepage?

I need to correct myself having a closer look yesterday. The PSU fan is running at 100% and is a little bit louder than the GPU. I don't know why, as the air coming out of the PSU is not realy warm. Will test if the GPU backplate is heating the PSU Backside (and the PSU fan cannot efficently cool that part). If this is not the case I think I will rma my PSU or try the SF600.
Anyone have another PSU as the corsair or silverstone which is silent in the case?
 
If anyone else with a silver case is wondering whether to get the black or silver feet: (don't mind the loose usb or power cable)
These feet, unlike the original ones, are very grippy and aluminium as well. They are a bit higher and the front feet do overlap with the aluminium panel though. Shouldn't be an issue even if it scratches.
The original feet are hard plastic and I can't even press the power button without having to hold the case, does Lian Li seriously use those on more of their cases?
Just attached with a simple screw so easily replaced.

Thanks Pagold for posting the link! https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01G1J5U7Q/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
(they don't come with nuts and bolts)
View attachment 18844 View attachment 18845 View attachment 18846

What size nuts/bolts did you use to attach the hifi feet?
 
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I need to correct myself having a closer look yesterday. The PSU fan is running at 100% and is a little bit louder than the GPU. I don't know why, as the air coming out of the PSU is not realy warm. Will test if the GPU backplate is heating the PSU Backside (and the PSU fan cannot efficently cool that part). If this is not the case I think I will rma my PSU or try the SF600.
Anyone have another PSU as the corsair or silverstone which is silent in the case?

Try putting in some insulating material between GPU and PSU? Like the foam packaging that came with the PSU. The back of the GPU does get pretty hot. Someone did it earlier and I tried it as well, although I have the SF600.
 
the vcore on the strix board. if I put manual at 1.26v it doesn't stay like that and goes all the way to 1.386v when the cpu is at 4400mhz. I was wondering if I could use it to lower my temps... anybody with a strix board has insight on this?
I do not have the strix, but somewhat the same issue (BIOS shows correct vcore, HWmonitor/CPU-Z/AIDA64 and so on shows the "high" vcore) But I have significantly lowered temperatures by lowering vcore and disabling multicore enhancement.
 
Try putting in some insulating material between GPU and PSU? Like the foam packaging that came with the PSU. The back of the GPU does get pretty hot. Someone did it earlier and I tried it as well, although I have the SF600.

I know that solution, but I don't like that the GPU backplate is partly covered and heat isolated (the EVGA backplate gets very hot). I am going to test if this is the problem in my case the next days.
 
Oficially:

Height
From bottom of the PCIe-Slot to top: 144 mm

Width
Without backplate: 40 mm
Including backplate: 45 mm


Length
Complete card incl. bracket: 306 mm
Without bracket: 295 mm



Now, i have a MSI 980ti installed in my A4 which is 277 x 140 x 40. I can see some clearance left but will measure it and update.
 
I understand that it is normal for 1 core to run hotter than the rest but I am getting up to 16degree difference. Any advice???
 

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I understand that it is normal for 1 core to run hotter than the rest but I am getting up to 16degree difference. Any advice???

What cooler are you using? If it doesn't have known issues, then it's time to reseat the cooler. If that doesn't work, you either can decide to live with the issue or delid your processor.
 
Two questions:

Even if it was nearly unused, why remove the possibility for a drive there? Was it causing issues with noise / vibration?

Why use stamped standoffs? It's a tiny issue, but it means they couldn't be replaced with shorter ones if the (happily risk-taking) user wanted to.
 
1.) Because you can also use the drive bay to mount single drives.

2.) v1.0 use glued screwed stand offs. If you screw the motherboards screws too hard the stand offs will go out while unscrew the motherboard screws.

I have to use 7mm stand offs to be in ATX specs and left enough space for riser, m.2 ports and big cpu backplates.
 
V2 is underwelming. Considering all the feedback that has been given. No options for a taller heatsink... like alternate screw holes for mounting the motherboard plate deeper in the case to allow more space if using thinner gpu. Or something...

Even if it's not feasible at least the 3 following things should be IMO.

1)Fan mount Bellow motherboard
2)Fan mount above motherboard
3)Fan mount above psu.

That's not hard to implement. Don't care about ATX or mitx specs. Give us the choice.
 
I understand that it is normal for 1 core to run hotter than the rest but I am getting up to 16degree difference. Any advice???

I also have 15degree between two cores - both in my ncase with h100 and now in dancase with lp53+a9x14 - 4790k. :) will soon order deliddiemate2 and clu
 
So if standoffs on mobo are "stamped" does this mean people can't replace them with shorter ones? Replacing the standoffs was the only way a few people here were able to fit in otherwise too-tall coolers.

I think an exhaust fan above the PSU or somewhere on the top panel makes more sense. Intake is not really the issue, getting air out of the case is. Hence people taking the IO panel off. I'm not sure how much a fan intaking air under the PSU would really help, if anything?

Idea for an intake fan, if we're on the "eliminate SSD" bandwagon, could be adding one or two to the front of the case, extending the front cover panel out a little bit, with vents on the side between the front cover panel and the inner panel and fan holes on that interior front panel. Probably too drastic a change though.

Any thoughts on selling a replacement mobo tray maybe as an add on, with a backplate cutout for mounting coolers/m.2 drives? One could run the GPU riser on the other side of the tray if they wanted to use it, since otherwise that would be in the way.
 
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Hi guys, first time poster here, have been lurking for a while, ever since I placed my order on kickstarter.

Thank you Daniel for this amazing case.

I am new to the SFF crowd, coming from the silent PC world (silentpcreview.com), having spent quite some time and energy on minimizing the noise coming from my PC. My whole setup resided in a Fractal Design Define R5 before. All I did, was to get another mobo and PSU and move everything over into the Dan Case. To be honest, I was a bit sceptical, if this would work out for me, as the R5 setup is just quiet. Never heard a thing of it. It did work out in the end, but it took a few measures.

A few words on airflow:
The main idea about airflow in the silent PC world is to create a path for the airflow, which is as unrestricted as possible. No obstacles (HDD cases right behind the intake fans), no corners, which the air has to move around (intake fan blowing into the case horizontally, exhaust fans sitting in the top, blowing out vertically). Air is so light, we do not feel it normally. Nevertheless, every molecole in the air is subject to inertia and thus does not want to change the direction of it's movement. This is not to be underestimated.
So the ideal build from this point of view creates an airflow in one straight line. For example: 1 intake fan in the front panel (with no HDD cage behind), 1 cooling fan sitting on the heat sink, 1 exhaust fan at the back. All three of them in one line. This will create the maximum effect, with the minimum of effort and noise. Quite simple, actually.
If you want to maximize this effect, you will create a duct (tunnel), to avoid air moving astray.

The concept of positive and negative pressure setups:
A regular PC case offers multiple spots to mount a fan. Some of them will act as intake fans, others will operate as exhaust fans. There will also be cooling fans inside the case, sitting on your heatsink and GPU.
If you only mount intake fans and no exhaust fans it is called positive pressure setup. Pressure will build up inside the case and the (hot) air will be forced out of the case. Upside of this setup is, that you will have a nearly dustfree environment inside the case, if you combine this with dustfilters at the intakes. Downside is, at equal temperature levels it will be a bit louder than a negative pressure setup.
If you only mount one or more exhaust fans, without any intake fans, it is called negative pressure setup. There will be a very slight vacuum inside the case, so air will be sucked into the case at every possible gap. Downside of this setup is increased dust buildup inside the case. Upside is, it is mostly a quieter setup.
Most people will build a mix of intake and exhaust fans to create a slightly positive or negative pressure setup, which will work out as the best balance between maximum cooling at minimal noise. If you combine this with a good airflow in mind, you will end up with a pretty silent setup.

Now, to get to the actual point of this post:
What makes the Dan Case so special to me, is that each fan operates at the same time as intake fan, cooling fan and exhaust fan. The suction side of the fan is it's intake function, the pressure side is it's cooling and exhaust function. To make this work, you have to strictly separate the suction side from the pressure side. Otherwise, a certain amount of hot air will be recycled through the heatsink. Again, quite simple.

Here is, what I did: Create a small duct for the CPU fan, which separates the suction side from the pressure side. A cardboard strip (cereal box in my case) of 20mm width, is enough for the NH-L9i.

ATTACH]


Here is what I gained:

temps_A4_zpsvi3mbg6w.png

Granted: Delidding the 6700K brought down the temps by 17° (delta from 67° to 50°), but the fan duct reduced it by another 6° (delta from 50° to 44°).
I created my custom fan curve in SpeedFan (I could do the same in BIOS actually), which settles the fan speed @ 1800RPM creating a delta of 51°. Which to me is quite bearable, acousticly as well as thermally. It is not as silent as my R5 of course, but good enough to trade 48 liters of volume (the R5 is lovely, but big).

So there you go: It is probably the cheapest and easiest mod. It is certainly not beautiful, but it brings down your temps by 6° or it relaxes your fan speeds at equal temps.

I did not do this yet to my GPU (MSI GTX Gaming 10709 but I will try it at some point.
 
mcheddadi: Your changes require a redesign of the case because its need to be increase in heigth. v2.0 should be the same case with some tiny improvements.
By the way if you want to install fans on top and buttom side this one will fit: https://geizhals.de/akasa-slimfan-8....html?hloc=at&hloc=de&hloc=pl&hloc=uk&hloc=eu


illram: Yes then you can't remove them. Sorry but I don't plan to make a motherboard tray with a cutout because it will not really help, because you have to remove the GPU and plastic shield to get access to the cutout.


@iiram and mcheddadi: In summer 2017 I will start a new case project that I plan to release end of 2018. If you need fans then this is the right case for you ;)
 
mcheddadi: Your changes require a redesign of the case because its need to be increase in heigth. v2.0 should be the same case with some tiny improvements.
By the way if you want to install fans on top and buttom side this one will fit: https://geizhals.de/akasa-slimfan-8....html?hloc=at&hloc=de&hloc=pl&hloc=uk&hloc=eu


illram: Yes then you can't remove them. Sorry but I don't plan to make a motherboard tray with a cutout because it will not really help, because you have to remove the GPU and plastic shield to get access to the cutout.

Removing the GPU and the plastic cover is trivial compared to taking out the whole motherboard.

Why eliminate the ability for folks to replace the standoffs? I personally did not do it, but I know others did.

Hi guys, first time poster here, have been lurking for a while, ever since I placed my order on kickstarter.

Thank you Daniel for this amazing case.

I am new to the SFF crowd, coming from the silent PC world (silentpcreview.com), having spent quite some time and energy on minimizing the noise coming from my PC. My whole setup resided in a Fractal Design Define R5 before. All I did, was to get another mobo and PSU and move everything over into the Dan Case. To be honest, I was a bit sceptical, if this would work out for me, as the R5 setup is just quiet. Never heard a thing of it. It did work out in the end, but it took a few measures.

A few words on airflow:
The main idea about airflow in the silent PC world is to create a path for the airflow, which is as unrestricted as possible. No obstacles (HDD cases right behind the intake fans), no corners, which the air has to move around (intake fan blowing into the case horizontally, exhaust fans sitting in the top, blowing out vertically). Air is so light, we do not feel it normally. Nevertheless, every molecole in the air is subject to inertia and thus does not want to change the direction of it's movement. This is not to be underestimated.
So the ideal build from this point of view creates an airflow in one straight line. For example: 1 intake fan in the front panel (with no HDD cage behind), 1 cooling fan sitting on the heat sink, 1 exhaust fan at the back. All three of them in one line. This will create the maximum effect, with the minimum of effort and noise. Quite simple, actually.
If you want to maximize this effect, you will create a duct (tunnel), to avoid air moving astray.

The concept of positive and negative pressure setups:
A regular PC case offers multiple spots to mount a fan. Some of them will act as intake fans, others will operate as exhaust fans. There will also be cooling fans inside the case, sitting on your heatsink and GPU.
If you only mount intake fans and no exhaust fans it is called positive pressure setup. Pressure will build up inside the case and the (hot) air will be forced out of the case. Upside of this setup is, that you will have a nearly dustfree environment inside the case, if you combine this with dustfilters at the intakes. Downside is, at equal temperature levels it will be a bit louder than a negative pressure setup.
If you only mount one or more exhaust fans, without any intake fans, it is called negative pressure setup. There will be a very slight vacuum inside the case, so air will be sucked into the case at every possible gap. Downside of this setup is increased dust buildup inside the case. Upside is, it is mostly a quieter setup.
Most people will build a mix of intake and exhaust fans to create a slightly positive or negative pressure setup, which will work out as the best balance between maximum cooling at minimal noise. If you combine this with a good airflow in mind, you will end up with a pretty silent setup.

Now, to get to the actual point of this post:
What makes the Dan Case so special to me, is that each fan operates at the same time as intake fan, cooling fan and exhaust fan. The suction side of the fan is it's intake function, the pressure side is it's cooling and exhaust function. To make this work, you have to strictly separate the suction side from the pressure side. Otherwise, a certain amount of hot air will be recycled through the heatsink. Again, quite simple.

Here is, what I did: Create a small duct for the CPU fan, which separates the suction side from the pressure side. A cardboard strip (cereal box in my case) of 20mm width, is enough for the NH-L9i.

DSCF1029_zpsp9kk9yvj.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Here is what I gained:



Granted: Delidding the 6700K brought down the temps by 17° (delta from 67° to 50°), but the fan duct reduced it by another 6° (delta from 50° to 44°).
I created my custom fan curve in SpeedFan (I could do the same in BIOS actually), which settles the fan speed @ 1800RPM creating a delta of 51°. Which to me is quite bearable, acousticly as well as thermally. It is not as silent as my R5 of course, but good enough to trade 48 liters of volume (the R5 is lovely, but big).

So there you go: It is probably the cheapest and easiest mod. It is certainly not beautiful, but it brings down your temps by 6° or it relaxes your fan speeds at equal temps.

I did not do this yet to my GPU (MSI GTX Gaming 10709 but I will try it at some point.

I was thinking of the same thing! Loving the cardboard box idea.
 
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For those who want placebo fans, I was able to put a AK-FN076 Akasa fan 80mm x 10.8mm at the PSU area without any modding. It's just resting on top of the Corsair SF600 PSU without any screws. Ultra tall GPU may block the fan, but my rog strix gtx 1060 doesn't cause any problem if I flatten the PCI-e cable. The PSU's power socket location is also important so I don't know if other PSUs will work.
Good thing about the fan is that it's PWM so you can control the loudness with bios/software.
 
For those who want placebo fans, I was able to put a AK-FN076 Akasa fan 80mm x 10.8mm at the PSU area without any modding. It's just resting on top of the Corsair SF600 PSU without any screws. Ultra tall GPU may block the fan, but my rog strix gtx 1060 doesn't cause any problem if I flatten the PCI-e cable. The PSU's power socket location is also important so I don't know if other PSUs will work.
Good thing about the fan is that it's PWM so you can control the loudness with bios/software.

"Placebo" fans...:D I like it. Placebo products are excellent sellers in this industry, didn't you know?
 
illram: Yes I know some modders and enthusiast are switching the 7mm stand offs for 4mm ones to get some milimeters more space. I think the numbers of user who did this is less then 1% of all customers. But the other 99% of my customers will get benifits of the stemp in stand offs because they will never come out while unscrewing the mobo.
 
A few words on airflow:
The main idea about airflow in the silent PC world is to create a path for the airflow, which is as unrestricted as possible. No obstacles (HDD cases right behind the intake fans), no corners, which the air has to move around (intake fan blowing into the case horizontally, exhaust fans sitting in the top, blowing out vertically). Air is so light, we do not feel it normally. Nevertheless, every molecole in the air is subject to inertia and thus does not want to change the direction of it's movement. This is not to be underestimated.
So the ideal build from this point of view creates an airflow in one straight line. For example: 1 intake fan in the front panel (with no HDD cage behind), 1 cooling fan sitting on the heat sink, 1 exhaust fan at the back. All three of them in one line. This will create the maximum effect, with the minimum of effort and noise. Quite simple, actually.
If you want to maximize this effect, you will create a duct (tunnel), to avoid air moving astray.
This triggers me so I have to reply.
The idea that air particles in a straight line comes from ignorance of basic theories of gas motion and is very common in the "big cases" arena. People drawing big fat arrows of air moving in the front of their ATX cases and out the back.
Google brownian motion and that's how the air particles are actually behaving. The air in a PC case is a pressure system and air particle are constantly pushed around in random directions by other gas particles slamming into them. Pressure causes the randomly moving particles to move in a net direction. No air particle ever travels in a straight line and they're not beach balls.
The A4 (and the Ncase M1) are not straight line systems, yet function because of pressure systems.
 
Update:

I found a solution for mounting a 92mm fan in the A4-SFX v.2.0 if you don't use the HDD-Bay

I made the 4 mountpoins for the hdd-bay symmetric (82x82mm) so it has exactly the same dimensions as for 92mm fan mounting.
The hdd bay will nearly the same, I had to made it 7mm shorter.

How to mount a fan?
1.) remove the HDD-Bay
2.) put the fan on the anti vibration rubber
3.) use 4x 20mm screws and fix it with 4 nuts.


a4-sfx_fanlzyho.jpg
 
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