• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

Hi Ranix,

you also need the Thermalright AXP100 classic mounting stuff and fan to use that cooler on a 115x socket. Furthermore two fan Anti-Vibration rubber for mounting the Thermalright fan under the heatsink. Maybe you can get the Kit and fan without the heatsink if you contact Thermalright support. If you plan to use it on a 2011 Setup you also need the Thermalright Narrow Ilm kit and mod with a saw.

Mounting stuff and fan from AXP-100 Muscle is ok?
Is it possible to mount slim 120mm fun on Nexus?
Waiting for how-to.
 
Last edited:
DAN Cases A4-SFX Window Kit Prototype Test


(click for higher resolution)


With best regards and thank you for reading and supporting me

Daniel
any chance you can do a copy of this overlaid on a side on view of the case edge? that way we can see where the push-pin sockets are and the corner edges. any way that they could make the metal panel as small as possible and the glass a little bigger, maybe use the push pin sockets(or replace them, can they come out?) to attach the glass too.
 
When I think about this sidepanel and bad temperatures, what about drilled (or something else cutted out) acryl? It´s transparent and has better airflow.

dondan I imagine board temperatures with blow-out-fans should be higher, do you have results?
 
Last edited:
I brought up the idea of doing this on the previous page or two. I wasn't the first to mention it, though. In order to mount a bottom fan you would need to drill holes for ventilation and remove the drive cage. Without drilling holes for ventilation there is no where for the fan to suck in fresh air.

Right. Because it is out of range so no danger for fingers I will drill big holes or use my Dremel to cut something else.

What i was proposing was a larger fan than just a 92mm... :D possibly 1-2x 120mm fans would be awesome. But drilling would probably be required for that. If there is drilling though - I'm sure most of us can or knows someone that can manage a couple small circular holes using an electric drill with a metal drill bit attached to it. I'm not overly worried about that, neither am i planning on making an entire cutout for the fan - though that could be an option to allow the fan to half stick in and out of the case.

Case is 112 mm wide, so unfortunately no chance for a 120 mm fan. Half stick in an out maybe a problem because housing foot are just a few mm of hight.
 
I think the sight Panel for the gpu is perfect, doesnt Effect the temperature and there is more space for modding

Dan will u make a poll with the suggestions?
 
I think the sight Panel for the gpu is perfect, doesnt Effect the temperature and there is more space for modding

Dan will u make a poll with the suggestions?

I'm guessing that the GPU temps aren't as affected because of the blower style cooler, as all air coming in thanks to the spacers is fresh, and then blown outside of the case when it has gotten heated up by the GPU.
 
Here is a version with round front corners what do you think?
I would like this better, it will match better with the case. The temperatures are disappointing tho, the original design is really efficient. Isn't it an option to just add more holes to the original panel to have a "window"
 
Chapeau: Thank you.

vipz: Looks great, but it will not work with the A4-SFX because the backside isn't rounded.

Necere: He he, yes the trick is to mount a Thermalright TY-100 FAN under the heatsink (Nexus=50mm, AXP100H=52mm). The Nexus will fit with default panel but the AXP100H only with the window kit.

Pantera_666: Thank you for your design idea. I think it will be impossible to glue the acryl if is surounded by venting holes. Furthermore your version is without stand offs so it will be impossible to mount the acryl because there is not enough space between PSU and side panel.

stelsevo: Maybe yes, but this will not help by getting better temps, because the fan is bigger as the heatsink. So much air will not go though the heatsink.

Pendragon: I will correct it for you if the stand offs in your drawing will collide with the pins. But keep in mind, if you make the metal panel smaller you will lose the stiffness, so it could be if you remove the panel it will bend and stay in that form.

makenick: Yes with the default panel the temps are higher if the fan pushing the air outside the case. But with the window kit it will lower the temps, because it will help pushing more hot air outside the case.

mirgus: If we finalized some Window ideas I will make a poll.
 
low7000-151.jpg


I don't see any space to mount the fan below without modding.
 
You can easily unscrew the block under the heatsink, than you have 22mm left space. Furthermore the default mounting kit will not work, because of the high push-pins so as I told, you have to use the mounting kit of the thermalright axp100, that perfectly work with that heatsink.

low7000-1514mqdg.jpg
 
That Fan in the botton is a pretty good idea. Question is whether drilling is needed or with luck the gaps already fit. Gonna try the Noctua 14mm Fan there. If its doesnt help the CPU because of the extra pcb at the Maximus VII impact, then it probably helps the GPU a bit

Gonna Order the corsair sf450 soon and will give u guys an opinion of the noise

The corsair sf 450 is also my current favorite. A test recommend a cold bottomside or some airflow at the bottomside for it to be silent. I also think the M2 at the backside of my board like some airflow to not be grilled by warmth from board and gpu backside. Looking forward for a nice modding-time :)
 
Here are some[ ideas of adding vents for better cooling:

unbenanntzmrdc.jpg


unbenannt2ceq6l.jpg
 
Last edited:
Love #7 (in glass!), or #5 (with the extra 2 mounts)

Now all we need to do is to clean up the mounting screws.

Maybe make them into a "feature", something like an illuminated standoff you can get for mounting signs?
 
Best way to Figure out what Works, i would make some Design ideas out of cardboard to Check whether it acutally Works.
 
You can easily unscrew the block under the heatsink, than you have 22mm left space. Furthermore the default mounting kit will not work, because of the high push-pins so as I told, you have to use the mounting kit of the thermalright axp100, that perfectly work with that heatsink.

low7000-1514mqdg.jpg
Dondan, can you share photo with nexus + thermalright fan?
 
vipz: Looks great, but it will not work with the A4-SFX because the backside isn't rounded.
I understand if you don't want to change the pull-tab's design, but other than that what is preventing the pull-tab to be changed to a roundrect shape?

Personally I don't see the trapezoidal pull-tabs to be anywhere near a defining feature of the A4's design. I don't think it's a good idea to base the shape of the window on it.

B78Gqm1l.png
 
Thank you for your design idea. I think it will be impossible to glue the acryl if is surounded by venting holes. Furthermore your version is without stand offs so it will be impossible to mount the acryl because there is not enough space between PSU and side panel

Thank you for your quick answer Dan, but you didn't paid enough attention to my post....

1.
You said: "it will be impossible to glue the acryl if is surounded by venting holes"
I said: "You can play with the distance between the vent holes and the window"

2.
You said: "Furthermore your version is without stand offs so it will be impossible to mount the acryl because there is not enough space between PSU and side panel"
I said: "3mm (maybe 5mm???) distance (spacers, mounts, screws, whatever...) from the case/chasis"

dan a4 3mm taller.png


Duh....png
 
Just drill some holes in the acrylic, that'll fix the heat. And make the holes in a nice pattern.
 
Make the entire side panel an acrylic window. Then use an adhesive to attach the panel clips to the window. You can use a tint around the edge of the panel to hide the adhesive of the clips when looking at the case.

Then offer a version with cut outs/holes in the window for airflow and a solid version for those of us who plan to watercool this beast and don't really need much airflow ;)
 
I think a flush mount acrylic panel with holes for venting (same pattern as the regular side panel) is the best option still dondan. Just my 2 cents.
 
My suggestion for the glass/acrylic side panels would be to narrow the window so you can just see the GPU and then put a hole pattern on the metal itself above and below the window. Similarly on the CPU side I would only keep the window over the motherboard because no one wants to see the excess of wires on a PSU, and that way you can put vent holes over the PSU.
 
mirgus: Thank you for that tip. Today I test two design ideas with a window made out of cardboard. I will show results later.


stelsevo: Yes I will do this later. Currently my focus is on the window kit and planing the shipment of the Kickstarter cases.


vipz: I love your idea using the round corners for the rear protrusions. But we will have one problem with this version, what will be if a customer buys only the left side Window Kit. This user will have a case with two different rear protrusions.


Pantera_666: You are right sorry for that. I think your idea itself can work, but I don't think it will solve the heat problem. Furthermore I don't like the holes around the glass. What does the other think?


StrawKite: I did this with a cardboard prototype window to test it. I will shoe you results later.


amvoith: I have a bad feeling with gluing the pins to the acryl. The panels can become warm that can weak the glue. If you remove the panels often, I am afraid that the glue connection can break. This could end in many warranty cases. Also the idea with different versions for water and air cooling users will be too much overhead.


Blackreplica: Yes you are right, but we will have two problems: 1.) How we mount the pins on the panel? 2.) A laser made acryl panel with 1700 holes (like the default panel has) is unpayable.


updawg: Maybe I have to make a drawing in CAD to visualize what you mean. I think it will not look very good, but I will try it.
 
I'm not interested in a window, but...
Why would you want to show your psu & cpu fan (except it would be the Only case where cpu AND gpu are shown on their best side). This side is messy and only shows 2 fans:yawn:, and D's tests shows its no good for temps - not worth it in my opinion.

Now, not having a cpu side window would also mean that gpu side window can be smaller (wont be symmetrical anyway), showing only the gpu. The advantages would be
  • No ugly slot/cables in view
  • Smaller opening close to the fans would (probably) mean more airflow from outside
My 2c.
Am still not getting a window though.
 
Wow, didn't think the holes would make that much difference.
If the cpu was starving for air, wouldn't it be the same for psu? So maybe more intake near the front... Like #2
 
Nice test ;) personally i would vote for the gap in the middle. just looks cleaner

2 would be my favorite and 4 the alternative

Temps with Glas could be a bit higher because of the heat radiation (dont know whether its the right english Term). Glas does Reflect radiation pretty good
Awesome results!
 
Last edited:
Quite surprised by the improvement of just the line in the middle. As said before, the PSU also needs ventilation so I'd say the line would be best, or a completely perforated windows of course. That way, it would also be possible to keep the original thickness?
 
Me too like #2 most. Really didn`t expect this large improvement by just a litte slit. thanks for testing dondan ! For me now it is worth thinking about it :)

My idea about mounting is something like that:


image.php
 
Last edited:
vipz: I love your idea using the round corners for the rear protrusions. But we will have one problem with this version, what will be if a customer buys only the left side Window Kit. This user will have a case with two different rear protrusions.
Offer optional non-windowed side panels with the rear rounded corners :D

Or, keep the old pull-tabs but stick with the roundrect window. I think that still looks better than the window with the weird corners.
hqc1Udsl.png
 
Corsair SF 450 arrived ;) gonna install it in few hours and will give u a conclusion about the noise ;)

Edit:

Installed the power supply... man are these cables short ! will be perfect for the dan case, but for an mid tower its stupid :D have to put the corsair on my tower to connect alle cables :D
 
Last edited:
Today I made some prototype Window Panels out of cardboard with my plotter, to test some designs. Here are the results:

Wow, didn't think the holes would make that much difference.
If the cpu was starving for air, wouldn't it be the same for psu? So maybe more intake near the front... Like #2

Agree, super interesting with the significant difference in temperature - makes the window panels option much more attractive.
 
Corsair SF 450 arrived ;) gonna install it in few hours and will give u a conclusion about the noise ;)

Edit:

Installed the power supply... man are these cables short ! will be perfect for the dan case, but for an mid tower its stupid :D have to put the corsair on my tower to connect alle cables :D

What you think about the noise? I have mine in a Ncase M1 - I do not think I have heard it even once :D
 
Yea its really quiet. But now i got coil whining with my R9 390 :( and that is actually not quiet :D
well, thats the downside of a single rail power supply

sqxS1IS.png
 
Last edited:
Yea its really quiet. But now i got coil whining with my R9 390 :( and that is actually not quiet :D
well, thats the downside of a single rail power supply

+1, I never realized GPU coil whine was sensitive to the power supply
 
Hi Ranix,

you also need the Thermalright AXP100 classic mounting stuff and fan to use that cooler on a 115x socket. Furthermore two fan Anti-Vibration rubber for mounting the Thermalright fan under the heatsink. Maybe you can get the Kit and fan without the heatsink if you contact Thermalright support. If you plan to use it on a 2011 Setup you also need the Thermalright Narrow Ilm kit and mod with a saw.

Hi Dan,
Could you provide some more details on this mod? I'd like to improve temperatures from the T318 and am interested in trying this.

Also, really loving the progress on the window designs. Looking forward to seeing this become a reality!

Thanks!
 
Back
Top