D-Den 8800 quality and corrosion (pics)

If you have removed the rad you can use white vinegar and water, the same recipe recommended to clean coffee makers. Seems to work, just rinse well afterwards. I use that too clean a rad when it is new and still has the manufacturing gunk inside. I'm not sure I'd run it through the system but it probably wouldn't hurt anything as long as you run a couple of loads of pure distilled water afterwards and then refill.
 
I am guessing that loop had 1/2 to a full bottle used.

Here's what's left of my bottle after doing both loops (about 1 liter combined) and one loop a second time:

I did have a ton of blue motion in there however. It didn't seem to glow very much even under blacklight, so I kept adding it.


I'm going to try white vinegar and maybe listerene once I get the rad pulled. Should I try to pump it through with a small loop or just pour it in and rinse it out?
 
I don't know if it would be TOO strong for an application like this but, what about CLR or something similar? I have used that stuff on car heatercores numerous times to clean them out from various kinds of build up. I am sure that it might take some extra time of flushing to make sure that it is all out but it might work better or more effectively than anything else. If these "water-cooling rads" are built anything like car heatercores then it should be ok to pour some in, slosh it around, and let it sit for like 5-10mins.

Just my $0.02 since I have never used watercooling on a computer. All air here, YEAH BABY! :D
 
If you look at the top of the block (the delrin piece) it's just wide open over the core area, meaning most of the fluid is just going to flow right past the utterly pathetic channels cut into the core plate.

Had a second look, hmm suggest you do too. Dont think I agree with this bit as the center of the acrylic top is filled in, which along with the inner gasket prevents water from flowing anywhere but the channels.
 
Another example of either too much AC Fluid or too much Glow Motion

Here's what's left of my bottle after doing both loops (about 1 liter combined) and one loop a second time:

I did have a ton of blue motion in there however. It didn't seem to glow very much even under blacklight, so I kept adding it.


I'm going to try white vinegar and maybe listerene once I get the rad pulled. Should I try to pump it through with a small loop or just pour it in and rinse it out?


Yeap, I should have included glow motion in my first quote...... That stuff is utter crap. Good news is you know what caused it and what NOT to use again!

Doesn't excuse the fact DD's quality is in the shitter. ;)
 
Don't flush the vinegar through your system if there is stainless steel in it. An earlier post mentioned that SS and vinegar do NOT mix well.
 
I did have a ton of blue motion in there however. It didn't seem to glow very much even under blacklight, so I kept adding it.
Forget bluemo. If you want a nice blue color you should get some uv-active tubes. Also AC has such tubes, its called "active blue".

I have them in my system (at night / at daylight) and they provide a nice shiny blue. And other than bluemo they glow and glow and glow... :cool:
 
Haha, no, I'm not doing that. My radiator is pretty easy to clean once its out, since its 2 pieces.


When I first popped it open, it was in a lot better condition than I thought it would be.



You can still see the sludge buildup in the channels, especially on the corner. Its kind of cool because it shows the path the water takes as it passes through.

I'm probably just going to take a few mic.'s of the surface of this while I'm machining the water blocks for my power supply.

So, R1ckCa1n, the blue motion is shit then? That would have been nice to know ahead of time. :C

[Edit:] Shoggy I wish I could use that hose, but I'm using 3/8" hose with barb fittings. I'd love to switch over to plug and cool, but on top of buying a new set of barbs, I would have to buy all new blocks and re-machine my custom radiators somehow to take g1/8 fittings. (Edit 2:) BTW that's a damn nice machine you've got there.
 
It isn't necessarily the Blue Motion that caused the slime. The picture of the slime I provided is from AC Fluid and distilled water, nothing else. That thread had no less than 3 people with the same exact problem.

I think that most people probably use too much AC Fluid, since 2% is very little. However you have used only half a bottle on 3 loops (since you said one was done twice) so it doesn't seem like you used a whole lot.

I would say the slime is a result of many things. 1) AC Fluid in general, and too much AC Fluid in many cases. 2) Not cleaning out parts, particularly radiators which have lots of gunk in them to start with. 3) In some cases other additives, like in your case Blue Motion.

Ideally you would have a loop with no mixed metals and just run plain distilled water...but that isn't an option in your case. I think your only option will be to regularly clean your loop.
 
I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point. I just finished cleaning the hell out of all the parts. I'm going to try running FluidXP, and possibly look into remachining those stainless steel parts with some sort of acrylic; that would at least take the 3rd metal out of the loop.

Anyone willing to let go of a pair of acrylic Aquatubes? :C
 
MDK, I found this too. Alphacool cleaning agent - worth a try.

Also, Sharka has F-XP on sale for $29 which is a steal compared to other yahoos.

My loop is getting kind of rancid. I am about to clean it since I am getting my new case back from Smooth Creations, and am going to transfer everything to the new case. I'll post in the case section soon.

Also, you'll love Fluid XP. I went back to watercooling after trying the Freezone, and did not have enough Fluid XP on hand so I used the 2 bottles of DD MCP fluid I had on hand - bad mistake. My case is painted red so I think I am going with some red Fluid XP to keep the bloody theme going.
 
Hahaha, I have some of that coming with a Twinplex SLI. About the FluidXP...l can you even add that to the cart? I cant seem to do it.
 
It isn't necessarily the Blue Motion that caused the slime. The picture of the slime I provided is from AC Fluid and distilled water, nothing else. That thread had no less than 3 people with the same exact problem.

I could have sworn all those users also had blue motion but am too lazy to find the posts.


Ideally you would have a loop with no mixed metals and just run plain distilled water...but that isn't an option in your case. I think your only option will be to regularly clean your loop.

Funny part is corrosion was not the actual issue for the OP. It was too much blue motion. I have been mixing my loops for going on two years and have never experienced a hint of corrosion. Because they are separated by tubing, I really think it is a non-issue.
 
I could have sworn all those users also had blue motion but am too lazy to find the posts.




Funny part is corrosion was not the actual issue for the OP. It was too much blue motion. I have been mixing my loops for going on two years and have never experienced a hint of corrosion. Because they are separated by tubing, I really think it is a non-issue.

Oh how nice it is to have selective memory. Since you were too lazy to check your facts with a simple forum search here you go : http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1021945&highlight=AC+Fluid+Slime

tbooth said:
I was using a mixture of distilled water and AC fluid in a loop that contained an Aquatube->Aquastream->EVO 240->Cuplex XT. This is the slime that was in the base of my Cuplex XT:

UnrealRage said:
same exact thing happened when I was running AC gear with that same block. I also had ac fluid and distilled water.

Dillusion said:
Same thing happened to me with my AC setup. This was while i had a Cuplex Pro and AC fluid aswell.

JMag said:
I have also had this happen with my cuplex block. I too cleaned all my blocks but not the radiator before filling the loop. I am thinking that it could be flux mixed with copper oxide created during the welding process of the radiator...

Derrick70 said:
I have ran AC fluid in my loop 2 times both time getting floaters and clogging. it was my fault for not mixing it right. i nolonger(sic) use it at all and i dont have any problems now

No mention of Blue Motion anywhere in the thread. Moral of the story? *Thoroughly* clean everything you put into your loop before running it. Do not over mix AC Fluid, unless you really like Ghostbusters, it seems to still be very finicky however. Finally, clean your loop often.
 
No mention of Blue Motion anywhere in the thread. Moral of the story? *Thoroughly* clean everything you put into your loop before running it. Do not over mix AC Fluid, unless you really like Ghostbusters, it seems to still be very finicky however. Finally, clean your loop often.

Couldn't agree more. No more than 2% AC fluid IMHO.
 
Oh how nice it is to have selective memory. Since you were too lazy to check your facts with a simple forum search here you go : http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1021945&highlight=AC+Fluid+Slime











No mention of Blue Motion anywhere in the thread. Moral of the story? *Thoroughly* clean everything you put into your loop before running it. Do not over mix AC Fluid, unless you really like Ghostbusters, it seems to still be very finicky however. Finally, clean your loop often.

Wayyyy too much time on your hands ;) What you didn't find or prove is if any of those users actually were using glow motion. Notice the OP didn't say he was until asked...... Reason I say that is Sharka sold alot of glow motion.
 
Two or three days ago we had a real specialist in the AC forum.
He had used a WHOLE bottle of ac fluid for his (normal) system :eek:

A bit later he said that something was growing inside his aquatube... :D

Maybe a proof that too much AC fluid is a bad thing.
 
Haha, wow. I'm never using AC fluid again.

I've got 2 bottles of FluidXP Extreme coming, along with 20 feet of the UV blue hose from Jab-tech that will work with my 3/8" barb system. We'll see how well that works (after I blast all the junk out of my big-ass radiator, that is)
 
My entire system is DangerDen products, and I"ve been using fluid XP since day one, without a problem. I know it's "cool" to bash them on here by some users, and those pictures certainly don't help. However, I'm sure if you sent them back to DD they would fix the problem. :D
 
My entire system is DangerDen products, and I"ve been using fluid XP since day one, without a problem. I know it's "cool" to bash them on here by some users, and those pictures certainly don't help. However, I'm sure if you sent them back to DD they would fix the problem. :D

QFT

5 bux says that DD will replace that block damn near instantly. I use all DD parts in my loop (well, aside from the 77 bonni core) and have nothing but good to say. It's a sad fact of production that there are some that slip out, especially when you have to ramp up production quickly as in the case of the 8800 blocks (any one want to guess on the total number of units BFG ordered from DD in the first run alone?).

Seriously, clean up the sludge, take pics of the problem, and call up DD. For me, a company that makes a mistake and corrects it will get my business over one that I never deal with beyond buying their product.
 
I like DD a lot but that block is garbage. Take a look at that EK block on page one of this thread and tell me that maybe DD isn't losing it a little. Sorry mate but past performance doesn't buy you anything when you charge $150+ for that thing when you can get a finely machined EK for $120. Regardless, I'll take my 8800GTS Swiftech MCW 60 over both as at max overclock (675/1.93///513/1.58 stock) I hit a whopping 45c on the diode running 3DM06 looped.
 
I like DD a lot but that block is garbage. Take a look at that EK block on page one of this thread and tell me that maybe DD isn't losing it a little. Sorry mate but past performance doesn't buy you anything when you charge $150+ for that thing when you can get a finely machined EK for $120. Regardless, I'll take my 8800GTS Swiftech MCW 60 over both as at max overclock (675/1.93) I hit a whopping 45c on the diode.

I was getting 46 with my MCW60.

My EK block's getting me 43 :p.
 
Gah, I havent checked email in a bit. Here is what I got back in response to my informing DD of this block. This was back on 3/6 so they looked at the issue immedately, its me thats a slacker. As expected the problem is resolved and they offer to swap the block, Yah DD, I knew that they would do better.


Remove the XXX's from dans email if you use it, dont want any bots farming it.
------------------------------------------- snip --------------------
Hi William,

Thank you for the link and yes we have taken care of this problem and if that person who has the block in question wants a new one all they have to do is let us know and we will replace it.

At the very beginning of any new block we can get into problems like this, rushing to meet demand but we have straightened this problem out and no more of these blocks like in your link have left our shop. We have eliminated this problem weeks ago by sand blasting the channel side plus with better optimized machine cutting (we think that this block must have been one of the very early blocks made, let me know if it wasn't, thanks) they only got better with a little more time.
Yes these are excuses and to be honest with you I hate excuses and this block should have never left the shop but mistakes do happen but this is what makes us different than the other guys. We correct any mistake made if it is brought to our attention plus when our customers do see things they don't like we make changes to fix them because we too are customers and only want the best for ourselves.

Thanks again for showing this to us.

Best Regards
Dan Stephens
[email protected]
www.dangerden.com
 
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