Custom Watercooling Project.....need input

ViruX

n00b
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Sep 8, 2004
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56
So far i have a list of these parts..
(1) PowerFlow Radiator - 1989 Honda Civic 1.5L (12 13/16'' x 26 1/4'' x 5/8'' ) $114
(2) PVC 1 x 1/2 $.80 - $1.60
(2) PVC 1/2 x 1/2OD barbs $.60 - $1.20
(1) Mag-Drive Model 7- ~$60
(1) Angel Eye Fill and Bleed Reservoir - $22
(1) DangerDen Maze4 WB Intel - $34.95
(1) DangerDen Maze4 WB AMD64 - $35.95
(1) 10ft 1/2" ID tubing - $20
Total - $289.70

Yes i plan on using a car radiator. This system would be for cooling multiple PCs. Currently two at the moment. I custom built a rack and now i plan on custom building a watercooling solution for it. The only thing im concerned about is the pump at this point. Will the one i selected be powerful enough to push the water properly. The project is still in planning phase. here's a picture of my current rack status.
radiator will be mounted on the back of the rack, along with all the other parts.
IMG_0228_resize.jpg
 

dagamore

Gawd
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Oct 25, 2002
Messages
649
are you going with a passive (sorta) setup i.e. no fans on the rad, or are you going to use a house fan to move air through the fan?

but i think your pump should be good enough for what you want, but you might want to step up to a ehime 1280 (monster pump and very quite) i use a few of them in my tropical fish tanks and they work great, massive head and alot of water movement from them.
 

ViruX

n00b
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Sep 8, 2004
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im guessing that my system will have around 8 head feet of resistance...

.24 per foot of 1/2" tubing
10ft of tube

2.4 head(ft) in the tubing.
2.4 head(ft) for the fittings and such, adapters
3.0 head (ft) for the radiator

totals = 7.8 ~ 8

at 8 head(ft) the pump i picked still does 300gph which should be fine for cooling.


let me know what anyone thinks..... calculation for the radiator is just a 'SWAG'....
 

ViruX

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i think i will be going with the next step up inthe Mag-Drive line. the mag-drive 9.5, it will do 600gph @ 8head(ft).


this will be a single closed loop system....

pump
cpu1 (in computer 1)
cpu2 (in computer 2)
radiator
resevoir
- back to pump
 

WarlordBB

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
390
I thought "closed loop" meant no resevoir?

I guess "closed loop" for watercooling is somewhat of a misnomer to begin with because you can't really have an "open loop" :)

Don't mind me, I just have the "Friday's"

We now return you to your regularly scheduled topic...
 

pandaking

n00b
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Sep 8, 2004
Messages
10
Same. You should put the radiator before the blocks to make sure the water is as cools as possible. I haven't seen those pumps before, I like :D

Try this res (if you get the meter version it will help you with some serious passive cooling)
 

thewhiteguy

Supreme [H]ardness
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Jun 17, 2002
Messages
4,551
The rad doesn't have to be before the blocks. The amount of heat the pump will add is not significant in the slightest.
 

ViruX

n00b
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Sep 8, 2004
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Thanks for the info guys...

I spent $73 on my pump. retail on them is around $120 or so.
Supreme Mag Drive 9.5 - 950gph, 14head(ft) max, 3 year manu warrenty

also, once you change the size of the in and outs of the pump, it completely changes the flow ratings, and max head ft, so by going with a 1" in/out would be pretty crazy for me, since with that the only real way to know its flow rate would be some kind of flow measuing appratus, or calculating it out using some formulas. I plan on running 1/2" ID tubing through the whole setup. So i wanted a pump as close as i could find with the specs i wanted that would do 1/2" ID tubing withough changing its specs to much. The pump i bought has 3/4" in/out, so its not as big a jump down as the suggested pumps.

I think im just goin to build since no one really answers my question. I calculated out the stuff i needed for it as best i could, and i should have plenty of flow for my setup. even enough flow to add 2 or so more systems. The fact that im running it as one large loop helps that.
 

ViruX

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Sep 8, 2004
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Welp, i have aquired all the parts for the project and i got a lil anxious today so i did a little test setup to see if there was enough flow to go through all the parts.

Contrary to some peoples suggestions and doubts, it works fantastic!! The radiator was very efficient at flowing the water, id guess it was hardly adding any resistance to the flow at all. Note how the water goes in the top of the rad and out the bottom, i deffinatly think this has a major contribution to it. there looks like enough flow to do at least 3-4 more water blocks (cpu, gpu...etc). On top of that it was leaking so i know it wasnt getting maximum efficiency during the flow. Anyways, here's a little teaser shot with all the parts in line (note the leaks....lucky I did my testing in the basement! Enjoy)

crude_testsetup.jpg
 

ViruX

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Sep 8, 2004
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you're right, but with the resevoir its easier to see the flow. And id rather be sure that the pump always has water to pull from, very sure... =]

-Vi
 

ViruX

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Sep 8, 2004
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I decided to also add these to my setup...
Link to quick disconnects

when disconnected they stop the flow of water out. It will make it easier for the multiple rackmount computer setup im running....

-Vi



edited by zer0signal667 - please no stealing bandwidth
 

MeTaSpARKs

[H]ard|Gawd
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Messages
1,149
Where did you get the closed flow quick disconnects? From where and how much please...
 

ViruX

n00b
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Sep 8, 2004
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From this site Omega The ones i ordered seem to be on back-order till 10/27.

unfortunatly this will put a hold on my project...

-Vi
 

ViruX

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Thanks Bio. Im hoping that they wont actually take till 10/27 to be instock. Ill wait another week before i cancel my order with Omega. But, atleast i know that its not the only place that sells them now.


They do look nice dont they =] Hopefully function as well as they look...


-Vi
 

PsycoGeek

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Man, I hope you get this setup together soon. I am interested in seeing how it performes.

Is the radiator copper or Al?
 

ViruX

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PsycoGeek said:
Man, I hope you get this setup together soon. I am interested in seeing how it performes.

Is the radiator copper or Al?


brass-copper cored according to the manufacturer. I think most of the cheaper car radiators are made that way. Here's a bit more info about the radiator im using Link

Ill surely be posting more when its done with all the performance stats..

-Vi
 

ViruX

n00b
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Sep 8, 2004
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i just bought a few additives. Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant, Valvoline(Zerex) Racing Super Coolant and Prestone Super Anti-Rust. Still dont know which one i wanna try first. I didnt get any Redline Water-wetter cuz i read that its contents are harsh on plastics (aka tubing and resevoir) which has been confirmed by a few of my friends.

still waiting on the quick disconnects.....ill keep you all posted...

-Vi
__________________
Athlon64
2800+ @ 2.4GHz
Chaintech VNF3-250
512MB Corsair XMS 3500
9700pro

Intel P4
2.8C @ 3.2GHz
Abit IC7-MAX3
1GB Corsair XMS 3700 TWINX
9800pro @ 415MHz/344MHz
 

MikeP

Gawd
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Aug 15, 2004
Messages
676
Id try the Zerex first. I dont see any use for anti-rust coolant in your loop.

Am I just seeing things or is the inlet tube to your pump smaller diameter than the outlet tube? I hope Im just seeing things, its been known to happen lol.
 

ViruX

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Here's some shots so far.....i love rackmount cases =]
IMG_0571_resize.jpg

Frontal View
IMG_0572_resize.jpg

This will be the completely loop when i get around to it...
IMG_0574_resize.jpg

This is the A64 box leak testing with no RAM/Vid and no power...I put a dash of the Hy-per Lube stuff in...
IMG_0575_resize.jpg


I realized that i only have enough clamps for the A64 box, so that one is getting completely done before my p4 hits the surf....enjoy the pics.

I installed all the stuff back into the system and im currently testing it.

idle temps at 1.55v and 2.5GHz (9x278) are 34C....load was around 38C

Idle temps at 1.6v and 2.6GHz(9x289) are 38C idle 45C load (Failed Prime95 uppin volts)

Idle temps at 1.65 and 2.6GHz(9x290) are 38C idle.....dont have a load temp yet...currently Prime95'in it. post in a bit....

(just remember, my radiator isnt actively cooled) =]


-Vi
 

ViruX

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I guess no one cares about my project on this forum other than me. Consider this my last post about my system then.

Athlon64 2800+:
currently running at 9x292@1.7v = 2.65GHz
Idle temp = 34C
Load Temp = 44C

Have a nice day...
 

Alex41290

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that's a really good overclock and temps....(i'm not just posting cuz u said no one cared)....that is one honking mofo of a radiator :eek:...must dissapate a LOT of heat...especially with fans...looking very good though....! u wanna try for a 10x multi?
 

ViruX

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Those temps are with a fan blowing on it. For some reason, even though the temps are under spec, it shuts off without the fan cooling the rad yet...Without the fan Load is 54C.

I think what happens is the capacitors right near it (the cpu) heat up with the extra 10C and extra voltage, and cause the computer to shut off. Fan on the rad makes it stable.

I cant use a 10x multiplier unless i buy a new cpu. A64 2800+'s top multi is 9x. You are most welcome to buy me a new cpu =]

-Vi
 

Alex41290

[H]ard|Gawd
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oh, haha, sry....no thanx, i'll pass on that :p

that sucks that its 54c, you'd think it would be just a tad lower...ah well, good job :D
 

ViruX

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Thats 54C with no fan blowing over the radiator.....IE passively cooled rad.
I just got a radiator cap for it, ill see if pressurization makes any difference on temps or temp delta....

-Vi
 

zer0signal667

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Jan 11, 2002
Messages
3,847
ViruX said:
Thats 54C with no fan blowing over the radiator.....IE passively cooled rad.
I just got a radiator cap for it, ill see if pressurization makes any difference on temps or temp delta....

-Vi


Other than raising the boiling point of your coolant, pressurizing the system will have no advantage. But, if you need to raise the boiling point, something is getting way too hot :eek:
 

linger

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Sep 18, 2004
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looks nice, my quick disconnects, just like yours, just came in and i cant wait to use them :)
 

ViruX

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linger said:
looks nice, my quick disconnects, just like yours, just came in and i cant wait to use them :)

they look and work great....gl with them!

-Vi
 

Tigerbiten

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - February 2007/January 2
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When I was watercooling my MPX system with a passively cooled rad I found it worked best if the rad was horizontal.
That way convection currents pulled air up through the rad and it was possible to run idle / full-load with no fans on.
The only trouble was the rad took up to much space like that.
So I ended up with it about 15 degrees off the vertical & boxed in front and back.
At the bottom of the rad box was a line of 4x120mm fans at 6v for when I wanted to actively cool it but it would still run passively because of convection current moveing air through the rad.

One thing I would change with your set-up.
If possible use a larger bore pipe between the rad and the pump.
This will raise the suction head pressure and the pump will then run more efficantly.

Luck.......... :D
u=Tigerbiten.gif
 

PsycoGeek

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ViruX said:
I guess no one cares about my project on this forum other than me. Consider this my last post about my system then.

Athlon64 2800+:
currently running at 9x292@1.7v = 2.65GHz
Idle temp = 34C
Load Temp = 44C

Have a nice day...

We care. Some of us just don't post unless we really have something to say. Good job, BTW, and I have been watching this since you first posted.
 

ViruX

n00b
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Tigerbiten said:
One thing I would change with your set-up.
If possible use a larger bore pipe between the rad and the pump.
This will raise the suction head pressure and the pump will then run more efficantly.

I thought about that before actually....but i like the current setup, how it is now...

ive been thinkin about adding a bypass from the pump directly to the rad to releave some of the pressue. It would also pass the water when i disconnect the quickdisconnects so i dont have to turn the pump off. Im getting a kind of grinding noise from the pump, i think its caused by to much backpressue from the flow side. the bypass would also help alleviate this noise.....thoughts?

PsycoGeek said:
We care. Some of us just don't post unless we really have something to say. Good job, BTW, and I have been watching this since you first posted.

I figured some people were following it. But it always helps to have positive feed back. Any feedback is better than none.....Thanks for the reassurance =]

-Vi
 

PsycoGeek

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ViruX said:
I figured some people were following it. But it always helps to have positive feed back. Any feedback is better than none.....Thanks for the reassurance =]

-Vi

I know what you mean. Now go look at my junk .
 

Tigerbiten

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - February 2007/January 2
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ViruX said:
ive been thinkin about adding a bypass from the pump directly to the rad to releave some of the pressue. It would also pass the water when i disconnect the quickdisconnects so i dont have to turn the pump off. Im getting a kind of grinding noise from the pump, i think its caused by to much backpressue from the flow side. the bypass would also help alleviate this noise.....thoughts?
-Vi

It sounds like your pump is cavitating.
It cannot suck enough enough fluid through the pipe from your rad so air bubbles form at the center of the impeller.
As the bubbles move outwards the pressure rises and they collapse causeing the noise.
A shorter, wider length of tubeshould solve the problem.
The other thing to try is putting the res back in as close to the inlet of the pump as possible.

Luck.......... :D
u=Tigerbiten.gif
 

linger

Limp Gawd
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Messages
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Tigerbiten said:
It sounds like your pump is cavitating.
It cannot suck enough enough fluid through the pipe from your rad so air bubbles form at the center of the impeller.
As the bubbles move outwards the pressure rises and they collapse causeing the noise.
A shorter, wider length of tubeshould solve the problem.
The other thing to try is putting the res back in as close to the inlet of the pump as possible.

Luck.......... :D
u=Tigerbiten.gif

Is that bad for the pump?
 
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