Corsair SF600 600w SFX Powersupply

does this PSU (or its 450W sibling) have slimline SATA power cables or regular (large) ones?
 
but can i use, say, the slimline SATA power cable that comes with the Silverstone 450W SFX PSU instead? is the pin layout of the power cable (the part that connects to the PSU) the same between the Corsair and Silverstone PSUs?
i'm asking because i have a SSD and a Blu-ray writer with slimline SATA power plugs and if i get the Corsair PSU, i can't use them anymore!
 
darxider said:
but can i use, say, the slimline SATA power cable that comes with the Silverstone 450W SFX PSU instead? is the pin layout of the power cable (the part that connects to the PSU) the same between the Corsair and Silverstone PSUs?
i'm asking because i have a SSD and a Blu-ray writer with slimline SATA power plugs and if i get the Corsair PSU, i can't use them anymore!
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It would be very easy to make the PSU side connector.
1x Crimper
2x Pins (get extra for practice)
1x Connector (yes, on PSU side, the peripheral/sata connector is just a PCI-E/VGA 6-pin connector)

A good wire stripper/cutter is an optional but very required and necessary tool. :D

However, that's because Googling Silverstone 450W SFX shows a non-modular PSU.

IF my google failed and you have modular cable, just use
1x ATX/PCI-E pin extractor tool
to remove pins from connector and place into correct position if same connector as Corsair is used
or again into
1x Connector

Used both ensourced and performance-pcs(used both to list some parts) before to create full set of custom ATX/EPS/VGA/SATA power cables for SF450 (bought wire from Ebay actually).

Slimline SATA only has 5V and ground wire, should be very simple to at worst buy an adapter from Amazon and rewire non-drive end to what Corsair wants for peripheral port.
Micro SATA has 3.3V and 5V plus ground.
SATA has 3.3V, ground, 5V, ground and 12V. But if you custom mod it yourself. You can just put only the wires you need, for easier routing and less clutter.
 
Can someone please tell me what screw covers these are?

a6f6b9443a4f10c918bac1c00a300b8f.jpg
 
fantastic little PSU, only complaint is the super cheap, super stiff modular cables that come with it are trash... throw them out and get some from cable mod

id pay corsair a premium if they came with good cables... been my complaint with a dozen of the HX series modular PSU's but its much more an issue in tiny cases

https://s26.postimg.org/5owabop6x/File_001.jpg
 
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Protherius said:
Can someone please tell me what screw covers these are?

View attachment 35407
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Those aren't screw covers, they're antivibration inserts you can use instead of screws to reduce rattling. Every noctua fan I've ever bought came with them, but you can order them online in a variety of colors.
 

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Putz said:
fantastic little PSU, only complaint is the super cheap, super stiff modular cables that come with it are trash... throw them out and get some from cable mod

id pay corsair a premium if they came with good cables... been my complaint with a dozen of the HX series modular PSU's but its much more an issue in tiny cases

https://s26.postimg.org/5owabop6x/File_001.jpg
Click to expand...

I've been thinking of ordering my own, but I've been debating the paracord or nylon option, got any input?
 
Anyone know what length of cables I need for SF600 with a Zotac Z270 ITX in a Dan A4 case?
 
think they only had one option and if i recall they matched the length of the originals
 
onering said:
Anyone know what length of cables I need for SF600 with a Zotac Z270 ITX in a Dan A4 case?
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Make your own, its trivial and fun. And than you can make it as custom as you want.

All that extra layers/accessories just makes them more unwieldy, cumbersome and take more space in tight spots. Unless you have window-ed case and are going for looks over function. But still, you can make just wires look nice and clean when you are making to match your exact needs.

edit: just fyi, lesson learned, is shortest distance isnt always best. I did shortest first time around. Than saw how i could have cleaned up build with longer round about paths, for me just for air flow and ease of access.

Just a few hours total to go from complete stranger to finished good build.
 
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A few random thoughts/rants that won't contribute to the discussion -- I decided not to replace the SF600's stock fan as the NCase M1 window panel may be coming out soon and my PSU is facing inward, so the Noctua colors won't work with my color scheme. I did get one of the early wrongly calibrated units, and that PSU fan is spinning always even with total system power consumption at 40-50W at 25C ambient temp with a 120mm Gentle Typhoon fan directly feeding it from the side bracket of the M1. I wish the PSU was digital, then I could control the fan curve and/or Corsair could release a firmware update. Why aren't all PSUs digital now, WTF. That was my useless rant.

Actually, let me also rant about the cables on the SF600. They are awful, especially that 24-pin as you guys know. It is insanely stiff which is awful for SFF, I'm not sure what they were thinking. In my case it's particularly bad, because I have the ASRock X99E-ITX/ac board, which has the 24-pin connector on top. So the 24-pin cable from the SF600 barely reaches, I mean barely. It is stretched to the absolute limit, you can kind of see it in the picture. It actually took me about 40 minutes trying to connect it when I built my system a while ago. Eventually, I had to reluctantly apply a lot of force to push it into the motherboard connector and it's fine, nothing seems bent or damaged, but I wish the cable was more flexible, because that was ultimately the issue, not so much the length. I would have loved to route it behind the motherboard, but that's a slightly longer route, so it was a no go.


LhWpxdE.png


Okay, I'm done ranting. The good news is, this will give me an excuse to make my own custom cables to show off with the M1 window. I've never done it before, but I've been doing research, and the information on this thread has been very helpful! (unlike this post). So I'm excited for it and I look forward to sharing it with you. The plan is to use light blue silicone wire to match my motherboard colors with no sleeving - I like how silicone wiring looks and it's very flexible and trainable. I will skip those sense wires, so I get a clean 24-pin to 24-pin route, and I will finally be able to route that cable behind my motherboard. I drew inspiration from this build, which is one of my favorite M1 builds:

NCase M1 Workstation Computer

My goal is to have my routing like his, except with blue wires and only 24.

Not sure why I felt the need to share all of this, but I want to thank everyone on this thread for providing very useful information and inspiration for SF450/600 mods.
 
QuantumBraced said:
A few random thoughts/rants that won't contribute to the discussion -- I decided not to replace the SF600's stock fan as the NCase M1 window panel may be coming out soon and my PSU is facing inward, so the Noctua colors won't work with my color scheme. I did get one of the early wrongly calibrated units, and that PSU fan is spinning always even with total system power consumption at 40-50W at 25C ambient temp with a 120mm Gentle Typhoon fan directly feeding it from the side bracket of the M1. I wish the PSU was digital, then I could control the fan curve and/or Corsair could release a firmware update. Why aren't all PSUs digital now, WTF. That was my useless rant.

Actually, let me also rant about the cables on the SF600. They are awful, especially that 24-pin as you guys know. It is insanely stiff which is awful for SFF, I'm not sure what they were thinking. In my case it's particularly bad, because I have the ASRock X99E-ITX/ac board, which has the 24-pin connector on top. So the 24-pin cable from the SF600 barely reaches, I mean barely. It is stretched to the absolute limit, you can kind of see it in the picture. It actually took me about 40 minutes trying to connect it when I built my system a while ago. Eventually, I had to reluctantly apply a lot of force to push it into the motherboard connector and it's fine, nothing seems bent or damaged, but I wish the cable was more flexible, because that was ultimately the issue, not so much the length. I would have loved to route it behind the motherboard, but that's a slightly longer route, so it was a no go.


LhWpxdE.png


Okay, I'm done ranting. The good news is, this will give me an excuse to make my own custom cables to show off with the M1 window. I've never done it before, but I've been doing research, and the information on this thread has been very helpful! (unlike this post). So I'm excited for it and I look forward to sharing it with you. The plan is to use light blue silicone wire to match my motherboard colors with no sleeving - I like how silicone wiring looks and it's very flexible and trainable. I will skip those sense wires, so I get a clean 24-pin to 24-pin route, and I will finally be able to route that cable behind my motherboard. I drew inspiration from this build, which is one of my favorite M1 builds:

NCase M1 Workstation Computer

My goal is to have my routing like his, except with blue wires and only 24.

Not sure why I felt the need to share all of this, but I want to thank everyone on this thread for providing very useful information and inspiration for SF450/600 mods.
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. I use the X99itx board as well and getting the SF600 24pin to stretch around my air cooler was pretty ridiculous. Eventually I got a cable mod replacement of the 24 pin and then cables decided to come loose as I was plugging it in. I settled for them mostly being seated properly. Its not nice knowing that they could come loose again given a modest amount of pressure.
 
That's my one and only gripe about the SF600. Stiff cables. I managed to work it well enough but I would highly suggest getting some cabling kit that has more pliable cabling. Its an added cost but for the money we put into this little case its worth it.
 
After more thinking on this, I think it would be really cool to do solid copper wire cables. They are solid/stiff wires that you bend however you want and they stay that way. It's almost like hardline cabling. It would be really useful for SFF where you can't hide the cables, and would look sick. I can't find a single example of this or a single person who has done it though. Maybe I'll try it...? You can get insulated solid copper 18 AWG.

PS Not sure if you can crimp it though since it's one solid piece of wire, the pins can't really dig into the wire.
 
QuantumBraced said:
After more thinking on this, I think it would be really cool to do solid copper wire cables. They are solid/stiff wires that you bend however you want and they stay that way. It's almost like hardline cabling. It would be really useful for SFF where you can't hide the cables, and would look sick. I can't find a single example of this or a single person who has done it though. Maybe I'll try it...? You can get insulated solid copper 18 AWG.

PS Not sure if you can crimp it though since it's one solid piece of wire, the pins can't really dig into the wire.
Click to expand...

interesting idea, you may need to learn to solder
 
QuantumBraced said:
After more thinking on this, I think it would be really cool to do solid copper wire cables. They are solid/stiff wires that you bend however you want and they stay that way. It's almost like hardline cabling. It would be really useful for SFF where you can't hide the cables, and would look sick. I can't find a single example of this or a single person who has done it though. Maybe I'll try it...? You can get insulated solid copper 18 AWG.

PS Not sure if you can crimp it though since it's one solid piece of wire, the pins can't really dig into the wire.
Click to expand...
From experience doing speaker wire, don't choose the thickest 12 gague solid copper wire you can find at Home Depot lol.
 
Neapolitan6th said:
18 will probably be just fine. 12 is pretty unwieldy. I mean once you bend it to shape it'll stay that way and never want to move. Might want to invest in some titanium cable combs haha.
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You know, the more I look into it, the more I become convinced that it's a bad idea. You have to bend each wire individually, it will be really hard to get it to look perfect without using machines, it'll be a pain to plug and unplug, and you'd probably still want some flexibility just for practical reasons. Behind the motherboard routing will be a pain. Then you gotta solder everything... Don't think I can do it without its looking awful. I think I'll just go with silicone, it's flexible and it stays in place pretty well. Or just regular non-sleeved wire.

Part of me just wants to get the SilverStone 800W Titanium SFX-L with the short cables kit and call it a day. It'll solve my cable problems and that PSU is passive guaranteed until 160W. But Corsair is better in every other way. You can't win in this world...
 
QuantumBraced said:
You know, the more I look into it, the more I become convinced that it's a bad idea. You have to bend each wire individually, it will be really hard to get it to look perfect without using machines, it'll be a pain to plug and unplug, and you'd probably still want some flexibility just for practical reasons. Behind the motherboard routing will be a pain. Then you gotta solder everything... Don't think I can do it without its looking awful. I think I'll just go with silicone, it's flexible and it stays in place pretty well. Or just regular non-sleeved wire.

Part of me just wants to get the SilverStone 800W Titanium SFX-L with the short cables kit and call it a day. It'll solve my cable problems and that PSU is passive guaranteed until 160W. But Corsair is better in every other way. You can't win in this world...
Click to expand...

I'm very happy with my Silverstone SX650. Cables are nice and it is a true SFX not SFX-L. Fan is definitely inaudible compared to my Vega blower :)

I don't have any data to back it up, but I would say in terms of noise the fan on the SX650 is on par with the fan in the ST45SF-G v2.0 with noiseblocker fan swap I had before. The SX650 has a 92mm while the ST45SF-G had a 80mm (albeit very high end noiseblocker). I plan on putting an aftermarket cooler on my Vega, and if the SX650 fan becomes audible I will be replacing the fan with a different one.

Edit: SFF Network just posted a review of these SIlverstone units: https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/silverstone-sx650-g-sx500-g-reviewed
 
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QuantumBraced said:
After more thinking on this, I think it would be really cool to do solid copper wire cables. They are solid/stiff wires that you bend however you want and they stay that way. It's almost like hardline cabling. It would be really useful for SFF where you can't hide the cables, and would look sick. I can't find a single example of this or a single person who has done it though. Maybe I'll try it...? You can get insulated solid copper 18 AWG.

PS Not sure if you can crimp it though since it's one solid piece of wire, the pins can't really dig into the wire.
Click to expand...

The problem with solid copper wires is that they break easily when bent multiple times. That's why most of the times cables (power, network, phone, etc.) for permanent installation in walls are solid-core, but cables that need to be unplugged/rerouted/used from time to time are stranded wire. If you buy a big box of 100 m LAN cable for example, you'll see that there is solid core for in-wall and stranded wire for 'patch cable' usage. Stranded wire is more flexible and can be bent over and over, because the strands can slide a bit next to each other, if you know what I mean.
 
Just did the fan change operation on my SF600 inside Dan case A4-SFX.

At first I connected the NH-L9i version of NF-A9x14(2.5W) to the 2 pin connector inside the PSU using the 3pin to 2pin adapter from NF-A4x10 package. I was still not happy with the noise levels at idle so I said fk it and replaced it with the retail version of NF-A9x14(1.3W) and connected it to mobo PWM. Routing the cable through the Power outs was much much easier than what I initially thought lol. Meanwhile I am using the 2.5W NF-A9x14 as the fan for my CPU cooler(Dynatron T318) for i7 6850K and the CPU stays 10 degrees cooler although it makes more noise than the 1.3W version.
 
Well that true - there are a few SFF builds running a 1080ti and an i7 off a 400W DC-DC unit. Those are using a 350W or even 330W external brick from the wall!
 
those MSI things are barely more than glorified laptop components. I wish people would stop the "go lower, go lower, ah shit! my shit don't work" thing with PSUs....
 
seamon said:
i7 8700 uses almost 100W less than HEDT processors and also cannot be overclocked.
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This is an unfair comparison. Obviously this is not an HEDT processor. HEDT CPUs cannot fit in a form factor this small - they don't have anything smaller than mITX boards.

The 'cannot be overclocked' is something, but overclocking is already pretty limited in cases this small... look at the Dan case for example.

Chapeau said:
Well that true - there are a few SFF builds running a 1080ti and an i7 off a 400W DC-DC unit. Those are using a 350W or even 330W external brick from the wall!
Click to expand...

Agree! It is interesting to see a major OEM do this though instead of the homebrew solutions.

jojo69 said:
excuse me, sir, I will be needing your [H] card
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Fair enough ;)
I'm an engineer and I do appreciate a well designed system with no waste!

pendragon1 said:
those MSI things are barely more than glorified laptop components. I wish people would stop the "go lower, go lower, ah shit! my shit don't work" thing with PSUs....
Click to expand...

How can you say they are 'barely more than glorified laptop components'? It is using a full desktop CPU and GPU! These are not the "M" GTX GPUs, nor are they they "U" i7 CPUs. I don't think people do the 'go lower go lower' with their PSUs. I did have a problem with a low wattage PSU on a Vega that I was trying to troubleshoot here on [H] a few weeks ago, but it ended up being a BIOS overvoltage sensitivity setting, not a failure for the 450w PSU to output enough power.
 
Smitty2k1 said:
This is an unfair comparison. Obviously this is not an HEDT processor. HEDT CPUs cannot fit in a form factor this small - they don't have anything smaller than mITX boards.

The 'cannot be overclocked' is something, but overclocking is already pretty limited in cases this small... look at the Dan case for example.
Click to expand...
I think for an OEM machine, it is impressive but it would be unfair to say HEDT cannot fit in such form factor :/ Currently running 3.9Ghz on a 6850K in a Dan Case
 
Smitty2k1 said:
How can you say they are 'barely more than glorified laptop components'? It is using a full desktop CPU and GPU! These are not the "M" GTX GPUs, nor are they they "U" i7 CPUs. I don't think people do the 'go lower go lower' with their PSUs. I did have a problem with a low wattage PSU on a Vega that I was trying to troubleshoot here on [H] a few weeks ago, but it ended up being a BIOS overvoltage sensitivity setting, not a failure for the 450w PSU to output enough power.
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its using so-dimms so its not full desktop parts.
people are trying to get away with the lowest possible wattage that they can. which is a bad idea. people should use at least the minimum recommended for the gpu. if you're running a V64 on 450w do not be surprised if you have issues....
 
Does this grill on this psu cause any additional noise? I see people who replaced the fan took off the grill as well.
 
seamon said:
They take it off just for more airflow. I don't think it matters much if you have it on or not
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Yeah, I haven't heard this guy yet. Try cooling a CPU under a hard load first and see if you can hear it- if you manage to, well, give it a try?
 
Anything in the way of the air will cause noise, that's just physics. Can you notice or not? Is it worth it? That's subjective.
 
I put a 2.5k rpm a9x14 off the l9i, the one with the lower starting voltage wired to the psu. It makes a continuous ticking noise (1-2 ticks a second) on desktop/idle use and the fan is spinning as well.
I guess the psu is supplying enough voltage for it to spin 24/7, but not enough to power it completely. Which is different from what Ceski reported with his retail a9, where the fan would come on and off. Mine keeps spinning with the noise.
This can't be good for the fan right? Thinking of going the pwm way wired to mobo.
 
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