Corsair Obsidian 550d?

@Jaspreet: Thanks for taking the time to explain. So your front intakes are 3 pin non-PWMs and you control their speed using the motherboard BIOS?
 
@Jaspreet: Thanks for taking the time to explain. So your front intakes are 3 pin non-PWMs and you control their speed using the motherboard BIOS?

That is correct... I had the Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-P in the front (as well as on the H80), and though they're quiet (and PWM controlled), the noise they generate is a higher pitch than the AP-15s and therefore more noticeable.
 
Just received my case from Scan (UK), and it also has a rattling side-panel. But only one: the left panel is fine, but the right panel rattles at the top (the bottom is a snug fit). The actual wobbling component is the latching bar, which has some side-to-side movement as well as the sliding front-to-back movement designed for. Oddly, the other side latching bar can also wobble in this manner, but once the panel is attached it does not. I suspect the tolerance issue lies in the latching bar end-stop.

I've fixed it for now by inserting a small lump of blu-tac betwen the latching bar and each of the cylindrical stanchions it runs behind, as well as wedging some between the bar and the end-stop in a similar manner. This has eliminated all rattling.


(This is repeated for all the unpictured stanchions)

::EDIT:: Apart from that one issue though, the 550D is a big step up from my old P180. Quieter and far, far easier to work with.
 
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Jaspreet: Thanks for the pics of your config, that is pretty much what I want to run (2x intake + 1x bottom intake + 1x exhaust) except I am going to try the stock fans first.

Also great to know the 8 pin EPS12V is long enough on your X-660, I have an X-760, it appears both use the same 650mm length cable so I won't have to buy an extension.

messyrimjob: best [H] username I have seen lol.
 
Jaspreet: Thanks for the pics of your config, that is pretty much what I want to run (2x intake + 1x bottom intake + 1x exhaust) except I am going to try the stock fans first.

Also great to know the 8 pin EPS12V is long enough on your X-660, I have an X-760, it appears both use the same 650mm length cable so I won't have to buy an extension.

messyrimjob: best [H] username I have seen lol.

Man, PM me... I have a crapload of Scythe S-Flex E, Arctic PWM, etc fans if you need them... would love to see them dirt cheap.
 
Jaspreet: Thanks for the pics of your config, that is pretty much what I want to run (2x intake + 1x bottom intake + 1x exhaust) except I am going to try the stock fans first.

Also great to know the 8 pin EPS12V is long enough on your X-660, I have an X-760, it appears both use the same 650mm length cable so I won't have to buy an extension.

messyrimjob: best [H] username I have seen lol.

Here's my system at idle... will run a stress test real quick and upload that as well. To go for complete silence, I've further undervolted all the fans.

pchealth.jpg


Image was partially cutoff, @ idle Vcore @ 1.14V

CPU Fans are the two AP-15s on the H80 controlled with EasyTune 6 (Gigabyte motherboard tuning utility), see picture below for custom slope.
Power is the NF-P14 FLX w/ ULNA @ 800 RPM
System 1 is the H80 Pump undervolted to get rid of the horrible clicking noise
System 2 are the two front intake AP-15s undervolted with a 56 ohm resistor.

Ambient room temperature 83 F (28.3 C)

EasyTune 6 advanced fan setting for complete silence

et6h.jpg
 
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Same settings as above, but at load for ~40 minutes running Prime95, 8 threads, in-place FFTs

loadz.jpg


CPU Fans are the two AP-15s on the H80 controlled with EasyTune 6 (Gigabyte motherboard tuning utility), see picture in previous post for custom slope.

Power is the NF-P14 FLX w/ ULNA @ 800 RPM
System 1 is the H80 Pump undervolted to get rid of the horrible clicking noise
System 2 are the two front intake AP-15s undervolted with a 56 ohm resistor.

Ambient room temperature 83 F (28.3 C)

Same fan profile as in previous post for silence
 
wouldnt you get much better cpu performance under load if your power and system 2 fans were allowed to spin up, increasing airflow in the case?

edit: by spin up, i mean up to 1200rpm or something modest like that.
 
wouldnt you get much better cpu performance under load if your power and system 2 fans were allowed to spin up, increasing airflow in the case?

edit: by spin up, i mean up to 1200rpm or something modest like that.

Unfortunately, using a Gigabyte motherboard because I dual boot into a hackint0sh system and this board is 100% compatible with hackint0sh using available DSDT from tonymacx86

Only the CPU header on this motherboard is controlled via the motherboard. This means that the rest are just "dumb" headers.

However, I really don't see this as a problem. I really don't game. 98% is productivity and every once in a while Photoshop.

When the AC is on, idle temps for the CPU are 29 C. I can't remember the last time I pushed more than 60% CPU usage and temps went to 54 C.

So, yes, though I wish I could spin up / down along with temperature, it's just not supported by my motherboard.

-J
 
Is there any word when fry's or microcenter is getting these in stock? I didn't have luck talking to those companies and I don't particularly like shipping cases from past experiences.
 
Anyone running the H100 with the rad at the top? With the top closed, I get literally zero airflow out of the case from the top...
 
Anyone running the H100 with the rad at the top? With the top closed, I get literally zero airflow out of the case from the top...

? isn't that self-evident that if you close the top there will be no airflow? Don't tell me that you have the H100 mounted on the top w/ the top cover in place?
 
? isn't that self-evident that if you close the top there will be no airflow? Don't tell me that you have the H100 mounted on the top w/ the top cover in place?

Yes, I was more hoping than expecting :) Having said that, with the front cover off and the door closed you get pretty decent airflow without much more noise.

I run my 3930K at stock, and with an H100 at the top. If I leave my machine overnight for a file transfer/download whatever, I close all the air vents up. My H100 at low fans keeps the cores idling at around 37C (ambient 20C) and my Gigabyte 680gtx at 32C.

It's a decent compromise I think, and the temps aren't bad. I'm only using the stock case fans in addition to the H100 fans and have removed the top drive bay.
 
Yes, I was more hoping than expecting :) Having said that, with the front cover off and the door closed you get pretty decent airflow without much more noise.

I run my 3930K at stock, and with an H100 at the top. If I leave my machine overnight for a file transfer/download whatever, I close all the air vents up. My H100 at low fans keeps the cores idling at around 37C (ambient 20C) and my Gigabyte 680gtx at 32C.

It's a decent compromise I think, and the temps aren't bad. I'm only using the stock case fans in addition to the H100 fans and have removed the top drive bay.

... front cover off and door closed? ... you mean top cover off and door closed? ... what front cover?
 
is it possible to fit a H100 push/pull at the front of the case with the HDD bays removed?
 
I've tried that, the H100 radiator is too long to fit there unfortunately.

You would have to cut the 5.25" bay too achieve this. Either by cutting the floor of the 5.25" bay or removing one slot.

Other than that, such a config would fit length wise(depending on videocard)
 
... front cover off and door closed? ... you mean top cover off and door closed? ... what front cover?

If you open the front door, beneath the 5.25" cutouts there is another panel that you can remove with damping, a dust filter etc.
 
If you open the front door, beneath the 5.25" cutouts there is another panel that you can remove with damping, a dust filter etc.

Ahhhh, yes yes, of course. Thanks! i forgot about that, as when setting up my brother in-law's case i removed it immediately.
 
After Dephcon asked I had to test again, as my first attempt wasn't a true attempt.


Look what I figured out:

kRgY4.jpg


It sits pretty flush with the front, not quite sure if the original mounting holes still fit, but thats not a problem velcro cant fix :cool:

XILdq.jpg



From above with roof removed(its necessary to remove it entirely to insert it that way.
R7Oun.jpg



Pretty tight, but it fits just fine. Is this purely by accident?
iglHz.jpg


This is the only problem I can see so far, but it depends on each motherboard. This is how far it reaches, and it might work, it might not. Mileage will vary here I guess.
HCxo7.jpg


vAM9T.jpg


Sorry for the wrong orientation on some pics, I did flip them correctly before uploading but imgur had other plans.

Its not difficult to do this, the most time consuming part is removing the roof with several screws, but other than that, no problem.
 
Roof comes off with about 10 screws, no rivets. The only parts that are riveted are the mobotray, back, floor and front to each other, and the 5.25" bay is riveted to the front/mobotray.
 
Thanks revention.
Now you've got me thinking :)

... in your second photo, you can see what appears to be the screw hole on the H100's mounting shroud. Can/does the H100 slide down farther, so that the holes line up with the 2x120mm mounts in the front skeleton of the 550d? or is your photo as far down as it will go?
 
I didn't try lining the holes up with the fan placements, but I'm quite sure they don't, that's where a strip of velcro or something else comes into play ;)

Im still waiting for a motherboard to be released and delivered before I can do any assembling, but when it gets here I'll give it a go.

I realised why the cutout in the floor of the 5.25" is there, its for the front upper fan to fit. That means you cant mount a H100 with 2 fans, but I'm sure its possible somehow.
 
looks like there might be issues attaching 2 x 120mm to the H100 in the frnot of the case, let alone 4 x 120mm for push pull.

Am i correct in assuming that it would NOT work to mount an H80 in the upper HDD cage spot due to it's thickness and the shape of the rad... and it would also not work to mount one there with the hoses towards the bottom of the case, still in the upper HDD slot, as they would not reach the CPU ... ?
 
Im pretty sure a H80 won't fit at all, because of its thickness. The H100 is pretty slim and fits down there easily.


You could probably fit a H80 with 2 fans in push pull somehow, but yes, im not sure the hoses are long enough.
 
Just got the case for my first build in about almost five years. Some thoughts after having just opened it:

Thumbs up:
-Coming from a NZXT Zero, the build quality on the 550 is fantastic. The matte surface looks great and feel nice, much more so than any picture I've seen give it credit for.
-Top and side fan covers utilize a nice pressure snap mechanism, simple and utilitarian. The fact that there are options to not use the fan ports and cover them up with a nice looking panel is a plus.
-Wire routers look great and should be very useful; I can visualize it all being very useful.
-Simple push button side panel latch is quick and easy to use.

Thumbs down:
-one of the little plastic notches that holds the front panel in place snapped RIGHT off; I believe this is an issue that was discussed here before. I'm confused as to why the panel doesn't use pressure snaps like the top and side fan covers do. That having been said, there are a few spares in the case, though this is the only sign of what is imo poor design/engineering I've seen thus far.
-The bottom hard drive bay where the spare parts box is jammed seems really tight, not sure if I just got a jank part. It matters little to me since I doubt I'll need all of them.

I'm looking forward to shoving all the components into this thing and getting it up and running.

Hmmm, upon closer inspection, I have seven bags of screws to the user guide's five illustrated types, and it *MAY* be missing the motherboard and/or the HDD/ODD screw.

I still have to wait for parts so I'll reserve judgment until I actually do the build; it may be that the illustrations are wrong or at least not 100% accurate. It's a bit worrying though.



Well, I've finally assembled my rig, which is pretty much a Corsair build considering the case, PSU, and cooler are all Corsair.

I'm very satisfied..despite the whole mate-throwing-away-box-so-I-can't-claim-rebate thing. A couple of thoughts.


-The removable side fan panel isn't lining up perfectly flush with the rest of the panel unless pressure is constantly applied. This is relatively minor and causes no noticeable acoustic impact but for the aesthetes this may or may not be an issue. I don't have an issue with it.
-There is NO audible rattle whatsoever. I'm very happy thus far with the sound dampening qualities of this case.
-Whatever screws I thought may have been missing turned out to not be an issue at all.

So the case turned out to be a very solid buy. The only concern I have is that I want to leave the front panel covered, yet would like some airflow from the front 120mms. Go with aesthetics or function...difficult choice!
 
The only concern I have is that I want to leave the front panel covered, yet would like some airflow from the front 120mms. Go with aesthetics or function...difficult choice!

Well, from my understanding, the front 120mm fans suck air from the side and bottom openings, so you can leave the front panel mounted. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
he means the snap-in cover for the 2x120mm fans... but i dont see how that affects aesthetics if you've got the door closed... maybe he does mean the door.
 
he means the snap-in cover for the 2x120mm fans... but i dont see how that affects aesthetics if you've got the door closed... maybe he does mean the door.

Yes, the snap-in cover. I don't understand why he would want to remove it? It shouldn't affect the airflow of the front fans because of the side and bottom openings.
 
snap in cover is NOT the outer door that's hinged. IIRC, the openings you're talking about are around the door... not the 'front' of the case, that includes the 5.25" bays, that snap in cover, etc etc.
 
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