Corsair H70 CPU Cooler Unboxing

Any news on whether or not it uses the same retention ring mount the H50 uses? A drop in upgrade would be fantastic... and appeal to my lazy nature.

;)

redbeard said it will drop in, had sent him a PM on this.
 
Would the H70 work good in a Silverstone FT02? Seeing as how it is 90 degrees rotated and you can mount the rad directly to the 120MM exhaust port.
 
Sure thats not a missprint?? Normal case air flow is front to back why would they want air forced back into the case as the rear mount fan for which you would normally put this radiator is right around CPU / Mobo area?? That would seem to totally defeat the purpose, cool the CPU while pushing hot air back to the mobo / cpu / cooling unit parts area, any gain would be lost by such things, right????

Any prices or is it still NDA item???

No, you will see lower temps by bringing in cold air over your radiator. You will increase the average air temp of your case while doing this. An extra 3-4C in case temp usally won't affect your max over clocks if your CPU is cooler, but it could affect the over clocks on your graphics cards if you are thermally limited on them. Its very case dependent.

Now from corsair's perspective, they are telling you what will give you the absolute lowest CPU temperatures, which is what their product will be measured by.
 
Sure thats not a missprint?? Normal case air flow is front to back why would they want air forced back into the case as the rear mount fan for which you would normally put this radiator is right around CPU / Mobo area?? That would seem to totally defeat the purpose, cool the CPU while pushing hot air back to the mobo / cpu / cooling unit parts area, any gain would be lost by such things, right????

Any prices or is it still NDA item???

No, you will see lower temps by bringing in cold air over your radiator. You will increase the average air temp of your case while doing this. An extra 3-4C in case temp usally won't affect your max over clocks if your CPU is cooler, but it could affect the over clocks on your graphics cards if you are thermally limited on them. Its very case dependent.

Now from corsair's perspective, they are telling you what will give you the absolute lowest CPU temperatures, which is what their product will be measured by.

together with what vengeance said, many of the newer enthusiast cases are top vented cases, so it would not do much harm(I'm assuming anyway)

potentially this could be a problem in a couple of scenarios.

1) your case is fairly close to the wall or a corner, and your video card exhausts out of the back, or having multiple fans on the back, which exhaust, could also heat up the ambient temperature behind your case.
in my case, the 5970 pumps out a lot of heat, and I have about 1 foot of clearance between the case and the wall, so it might not be so bad.

2) you don't have a top ventilated case.
 
together with what vengeance said, many of the newer enthusiast cases are top vented cases, so it would not do much harm(I'm assuming anyway)

potentially this could be a problem in a couple of scenarios.

1) your case is fairly close to the wall or a corner, and your video card exhausts out of the back, or having multiple fans on the back, which exhaust, could also heat up the ambient temperature behind your case.
in my case, the 5970 pumps out a lot of heat, and I have about 1 foot of clearance between the case and the wall, so it might not be so bad.


2) you don't have a top ventilated case.

Heh, I ran into this once. All the heat from my gfx cards when straight into my intake fan lol.
 
For those who are complaining about dumping hot air into the case and frying memory and what not really should not be posting in this forum. Its obvious that you are making assumptions about all sorts of things that you have no idea about.

The cool air that gets pulled into the back does get warmed up, but you and you "scare" tactics are going overboard. People routinely dump 2,3,4 video cards that can pull over 300 watts of power each, and those dump much more heat into the case than a water cooling radiator that is designed to handle a 130 watt power load. The air will not be hot, t,he air will be slightly warmer, but only by a few degrees. I have measured it.

since the ATi 5xxx and NVidia 2xx series cards have started to dump air into cases instead of pumping it all out back like the older cards did, those are more of a problem than this setup.

Let me give you my background in cooling systems.... I served in the Navy for nine years working on the Nuclear reactor. I understand cooling very well, actually probably better than 99.9% of the people on these forums. What gets me upset is a bunch of posters that claim something or say something, when they haven't done what they have said, or have tested in correctly.

Corsair's instructions to have the fan PULL air into the case is the optimal setup in over 90+ percent of the PC's that are on the market today. Its simple math. Where do I get the coolest air to flow over my radiator. The second thing that just gets under my skin is that water cooling systems do not dissipate the full heat component that the 130 watts that are generated by todays core i7 systems. So you worry about it dumping air into your system thats now warmer because it cooled your CPU.... My question for you is where does the air go from a top quality air cooling system???

Let me give you a hint.... inside something.... yup you guessed it, the case... the same place that the Corsair system dumps its heat from cooling the CPU.

Typically you would allow the air to exit the back fan. With the WC system, you have to put a little more thought into the fan configuration. Your rear fan is now pulling in air, its warmer air, but NOT HOT air, lets get that straight, this is not like the air coming off of a GPU cooler. Most instances the air is just a few degree's C warmer than it would have been.... so your memory is not going to fry.

Second if you have ANY experience with ANY WC systems (which besides my experience running a system on a reactor on a boat) you will know that you have to consider that there will now be less airflow in the case period which is where the real troubles come from. Why do you think that the ASUS ROG systems come with extra heat sinks with fans... The Rampage III does and so did the older Rampage Formula... these where to move air around if you decided to use a WC system....

So now you have a fan that normally exhausted hot air out of the system, bringing in air that has been warmed 3-5 degrees C...

So what you now have to do is re-do the fans in the system to possibly blow in a different direction. Have a top case fan slot thats not in use.... now make use of it.... good area for a warm air exhaust port. Typically cases have fans in front to blow air into the systems, some claim to help cool the HDD drives, but if it were doing that, then it was no better than your new H70 which is now pulling in slightly warmer air. So you turn that fan around and have it exhaust air out the front. Basically you just switched the air flow of the system to take advantage of your cooling system.

Most systems have side fans to blow cool air on to their video card. These days these have gotten so big and move so much air sometimes I wonder why you guys fret about some of these temps.

I have not run the H70 but I did run the H50 on an LGA775 machine with a Q6600 pushed to just over 4Ghz and it did its job very well. I can tell you that turning this fan around to have it do what normal rear fans do caused the system to crash in minutes.

My top temp in Linpack testing was 73 degrees C.... and it turned out 58 to 59 GFlops....

My current system is a self made cooling system using an LGA1366 and my best Linpack Test Score has been 53GFlops and that was a i7-930 OC'ed to 4.2Ghz.

Most people hear that comment have never used the device, and assume that any change to the old tried and true air flow patterns that have been used in the past will cause all sorts of issues. What you have to do is actually spend a few dollars and test. Go buy a 5 dollar small digital thermometer and REMOVE the back fan and place the themometer directly below the 120mm opening and let, it sit there while you compute. Do not have it touching the case or the air coming from the case (why I said just below the opening). Next open the case and find a way to place the thermometer near that same spot on the inside.

Where ever the air is the coolest is where you will want to draw your air from. The one gentleman said he had his videocard coolers exhausting right below that opening, this could be the one exception to where you would pull your air from. Otherwise wherever the coolest air is at will be the air the you will be blowing into the radiator and into your system. The good deal with the push/pull on the H70 is that there will be a lot of air flowing into your case and it will not be nearly as warm as your expected. I will tell you this until I'm blue in the face, but we are not trying to cool due GPU's that use 600 watts of power, you are looking at a CPU that will at stock under full load be pulling 130Watts of power, maybe up to 220 or so if you overclock.

This is why you have to use the coolest source of air, or otherwise the system will not meet your expectations and you will be disappointed. Water Cooling has to be done right otherwise like I said you will end up with a CPU heater and not a CPU cooler.

The rule in cooling is that the cooler can only cool as cold as the ambient air temperature is.... if you can look me in the face and tell me that the inside of your closed system is cooler than that air just outside of your system, then either your system is outside in the middle of the tropics or you have no idea about anything.

Those of you who think that turning that fan around will cause your memory to warm to a point where it will fry just don't fully understand the concept of proper watercooling.

I can say that when it comes to cooling systems, that I have worked on some of the most complex and costly systems in the United States and can explain why certain aspects of the H70 lend itself to much better cooling than the H50.... and I can also explain that when you do pull air into the case instead of having it exit like it normally does, it often goes against what we have been taught and have used for years for AIR cooled systems. As we move toward systems that use more and more power we have to not only be prepared to change the way that we cool our CPU, but the way that we have the route air through our case to keep the other components cool as well.

Many people do not understand water cooling as well as air cooling, so you may have to reseat and re do the airflow into the case, but in the end you will end up with a more efficient cooling system that can handle more heat which will give you more head room to overclock to higher and higher frequencies.... I just have had the privilege of working on forms of liquid cooling systems for many more years than most everyone hear....

There are just too many misconceptions at this point, and it is true that there is much more than can go wrong, leaving you with a system that will not run, but that is not due to cooling capacity, that is due to leaks. These pre-sealed systems are just a first step into a world of cooling systems that not only look good, but can cool your whole system with out much as the noise of the pump pushing the water through the system.....
 
That's a thick rad; I have high hopes! Core i7 920 D0 @ 4GHz, temps in the high 60s low 70s?

That shouldn't be a problem at all. I've got two different i7-920's running at 4 Ghz on H50's, and they run low to mid 70's C with a room temp of about 74 degrees while folding for the [H]orde. With this thicker rad the H70shows, I'd say you'll be in the high 60's. :cool:
 
Quick question - how much length between the heat sink and radiator? I've got my h50 outside the chassis. Next build, I'd like to have a bit more play room for mounting options. they make the tubes longer?
 
"Hey guys check out my sweet new computer!"

"DUDE WHAT IS THAT NOISE??"

"WHAT?"

"WHAT IS THAT NOISE!!!!"

"THAT"S MY CPU HEATSINK FANS, I GET LIKE 5 DEGREES COOLER LIKE THIS!"

"SWEET"

We've got some 80cfm, 14,000 RPM 28V 90mm fans at work ya'll should be using instead. Well.... they are like 3 inches long (tubes), 500$ each, and are loud enough you need to wear hearing protection, but nothing but the best, right?
 
00868737.jpg
wrote this on June 27 about why he never finished the Level 10 build..


http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1035881028&postcount=131

Ah, thank you. :) I'm glad I havn't missed it then. Whew. :)

IceEmQuick, thank you for that too. I'd actually be a bit worried if my memory didn't get any air flow on it. All it gets right now is a bit of stock cooler run off, and I'll tell ya, my ram is well above 60c because it fails the touch test. It's the hottest thing in my system. I'd have the air flow in from the rad for that reason to assist the memory and chipset heatsinks.
 
Just read that review. Ugh how do they not at least compare a H50 with two fans in push/pull configuration to the H70 with two fans in push/pull configuration?


well when you consider the fact that it was run on an i5 750 overclocked to a measly 3.2ghz.. ya kinda get the picture with that site and review.. if thats what you want to call it..
 
For those who are complaining about dumping hot air into the case and frying memory and what not really should not be posting in this forum. Its obvious that you are making assumptions about all sorts of things that you have no idea about.

The cool air that gets pulled into the back does get warmed up, but you and you "scare" tactics are going overboard. People routinely dump 2,3,4 video cards that can pull over 300 watts of power each, and those dump much more heat into the case than a water cooling radiator that is designed to handle a 130 watt power load. The air will not be hot, t,he air will be slightly warmer, but only by a few degrees. I have measured it.

.........................................

So let me pose a few questions for you :p what if your rear fan is your ONLY exhaust fan, and you have a videocard that doesn't exhaust out of the back?(by the way most reference cards currently DO exhaust out of the back, and most aftermarket videocards do not =p) then most of what you wrote goes out the window, 130W load is only @ stock if you're buying an H70 to run your cpu @ stock why not keep the stock intel HS 0.0?

Pretty sure an i7 @ 3.6 is rounding closer to 200w.

and what if you have no intake fans and rely on the exhaust fan to pull air through your case? (EG: Cosmos 1000)

again it all comes down to your case.
 
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H50 is on par with top air coolers. H70 should do significantly better than its predecessor (5c+) or it will be a disappointment.

Ive seen tests that show in on par or below. I still don't think its going to be all taht much different. I hope I am wrong. I will pick one up if I can get it to run silent like my current setup. I am worried about pump noise/vibe.
 
I'd like to see a comparison of the Corsair H70 vs the CoolIt ECO-240, Sure It's 120mm vs 240mm, But considering CoolIt has a 240 and Corsair doesn't, Lets see what's better...
In both push-pull and a fan per core...

Me I use Delta fans on My H50, a 113cfm 120x25mm and a 129cfm 120x38mm and I can see why the block size has been reduced as the old block almost doesn't work with what I have already, two 38mm fans would be too thick with the H50 and My Asus P5K Deluxe, My ancient Intel QX6700 B1(ES) cpu runs @ 2.98GHz at stock vcore of 1.35v and the temps at full load are about 75-80C. The cpu will do 3.53GHz at nearly 95C with the current H50 setup and that's within 5C of Max I've been told. :D

190_eco240-attach.jpg
 
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"Hey guys check out my sweet new computer!"

"DUDE WHAT IS THAT NOISE??"

"WHAT?"

"WHAT IS THAT NOISE!!!!"

"THAT"S MY CPU HEATSINK FANS, I GET LIKE 5 DEGREES COOLER LIKE THIS!"

"SWEET"

I thought I was that guy...I'm not. After a few months with 5 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000s or whatever they were I was ready for a quiet but slightly warmer pc.
 
I love how there has been talk about this cooler and the 600t case and now that the cooler is out ALL of the forums are dead with little or no info on these products. the corsair reps were taking questions and relaying back information that they have collected and now nothing... Great
 
I love how there has been talk about this cooler and the 600t case and now that the cooler is out ALL of the forums are dead with little or no info on these products. the corsair reps were taking questions and relaying back information that they have collected and now nothing... Great

Not sure what you mean - I'm still answering questions daily here.
 
Newegg has them instock right NOW, but for $109 (MSRP). Amazon has it for like $10 cheaper but its a preorder with an expected ship date of Sep - Oct.
 
Sorry, I didn't mean anything negative, it just seemed like the forums slowed up a bit =)
 
More are shipping each week - we've got a pretty steady stream coming in - but demand is still high (obviously Newegg sold out almost immediately) so I expect it to be hit or miss for the next few weeks.
 
Well I'm in the Fremont area for the next few days Redbeard, so if you're so inclined to let me stop by HQ I'd gladly take an H70 off of your hands :D.
 
I think I may get the H70 and change the 120 rad for a GSX240 rad and use some 10mm OD tubing, with some clear Feser liquid for coolant.
What do you think? Had anyone done similar with the H50?
cheers:confused:
 
I think I may get the H70 and change the 120 rad for a GSX240 rad and use some 10mm OD tubing, with some clear Feser liquid for coolant.
What do you think? Had anyone done similar with the H50?
cheers:confused:

The point of these systems is to be self contained and all-in-one packages. At that point you might as well put a system together your self.
 
Yep, but I like the all in one block/punp unit on the H70's...
If Corsair sold them seperate I'd snap 2 up, one for 1366 and other for corei5.
After all pump & block will cost about £80 today so for the H70 at £80 seems a fair exchange..
 
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