Corsair H50 CPU Cooler Preview.

Here's my Corsair Obsidian Build from a couple weeks back with a few pictures of the H50

The inside
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All lit up with window
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Close up on both the EVGA motherboard, modded cards with blackplate, RAM and black cables
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andrelmaraujo said:
Hi guys, I bought past month my Corsair H50 here in Brazil and reading some reviews today (don´t know why :) ) I´m in doubt about my Pump "rotation".
I plugged the pump in the XFX 780i nForce SPP Fan Header and I´m getting from 680~800 rpm.. is this ok ?
What´s yours "rpm" from the pump ?

Should I plugged it in another "fan header" or is everything ok here ?

Thanks a lot,

André Luis.
Click to expand...

Great question. I'd like to know as well.

I have been running my pump attached to a 3 pin power connector which has a black, red and yellow wire that go to standard 4 pin PSU connection. So I am not able to see how fast it is going but I have a good power source to it.
 
Dugn your built an absolutely clean and mean looking machine.

There is one thing that bothers me about it. I don't like the excessive bends in your H50 tubes. Seems like more restriction on the liquid flow.
 
andrelmaraujo said:
Hi guys, I bought past month my Corsair H50 here in Brazil and reading some reviews today (don´t know why :) ) I´m in doubt about my Pump "rotation".
I plugged the pump in the XFX 780i nForce SPP Fan Header and I´m getting from 680~800 rpm.. is this ok ?
What´s yours "rpm" from the pump ?

Should I plugged it in another "fan header" or is everything ok here ?

Thanks a lot,

André Luis.
Click to expand...

my pump hovers between 1400-1500 rpm fwiw. try running it off a different header.
 
Dugn's tubing (....there's a joke somewhere) doesn't look that bad to me. All of the install pics I've seen, it's bending somewhere. In his case, the angles don't look as bad as others I've seen.
 
SonDa5 said:
Dugn your built an absolutely clean and mean looking machine. There is one thing that bothers me about it. I don't like the excessive bends in your H50 tubes. Seems like more restriction on the liquid flow.
Click to expand...

SonDa5 - Thanks for the good words. But I've seen your posts around: You're pretty picky about any bending in those Corsair tubes :p I'm calling you on it and razzing you at the same time!

bitgod said:
Dugn's tubing (....there's a joke somewhere) doesn't look that bad to me. All of the install pics I've seen, it's bending somewhere. In his case, the angles don't look as bad as others I've seen.
Click to expand...

Yeah - what bitgod says! Honestly - I think the bend is as slight as I could make it and - trust me - there's no compromise in my cooling :)
 
Just thought I would add something funny about this cooler. A friend of mine let me know they sell this at BB and after checking the employee discount, it was about $52 lol.
 
For the guys with pump rpm questions. Check your bios settings. Typically (normally) if you are using the cpu fan header for powering the pump you would want to disable EIST (cool and quiet if AMD) and any other cpu fan speed control to force the cpu fan header to act as if you where trying to run the cpu fan at 100% speed all the time. So if you turn off/disable all cpu fan speed control the pump should run full speed all the time.

That is the safest way to go. I have no idea what/how/if the pump would have any issues being undervolted by cpu fan speed controls but with its small size I would be concerned about stressing the pump at lower voltages but I just do not know. Corsair Tech suport might have an opinion.
 
SonDa5 said:
I didn't want to let go of that rear exhaust at first but I eventually did.


The big Scythe KAZE 120x120x38 is blowing air from outside of the case through the radiator and the Corsair 120mm fan is pulling air into the case.


Here is a photo with directional arrows of fans that are in the photo.

H50chipsetVGAairflowarea.JPG


This is working very well for me.
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Well, that's even worst. You are now putting hot air into your case. This reduces the cooling of all your other components. If you just point the rad straight up and put another intake fan at the rear, you'll improve cooling to all components.
 
I respectively disagree - with that case that is how I would do it. That big ass fan up top is not going to let that barely warm air sit in the case for any amount of time at all and the advantage of providing cool ambient room air instead of warm case air to the rad far outweighs any other concerns. I have seen this air movement scheme (making that upper rear exhaust an intake) even work with air coolers with this case.

Edit: per below I missed the point, sorry. Disregard above.
 
Last edited:
You guys are not understanding me.

This configuration is great, just move the rad.

If you just move the rad off that intake and put a another intake fan there, that would only improve everything. This rear intake becomes cooler, and the rad has less heat resistance, since its outtake is not into the case.
 
Pyrolistical could you draw a diagram and post it? I'm having a hard time visualizing your idea.
 
Does this help?

The rad with fans is facing you. Think in 3D

fans.png


I understand its hard to mount the rad like that, but its worth it if you can pull it off.
 
Diagram cleared things up.

Thanks.

I thought about doing it like that but I just didn't have the proper materials available at the time I was tweaking my Antec 900 case. I think it would work better than my set up.

Wouldn't be as pretty though. :D

Hope some body trys it out just to see how it works. Corsair or somebody else should make a case for the H50 that would allow an easy configuration like my set up or like the one in your diagram.
 
I just setup my system tonight. I've got it setup in the stock Corsair manner, rad in the case with the fan sucking in air from the outside, just using one fan. So I've got air coming in from there and from the normal intake fan, and then I have 2 fans at the top blowing out.

Some info from working with the TJ09, I took the tray out to setup the H50, ended up connecting everything outside of the case, didn't figure it would be an issue since the tubes cleared the top of the tray. Well, ran into one catch, the rad is just barely too big to slide the tray back in the case. Grrrr. Well it was loads easier connecting up the fan and rad to the tray outside of the case, so rather than taking it apart again, I unscrewed the top of the bar that it was hitting and lifted it up a little while putting in the tray. :) Downside is, I'll have to take that apart again if I want to pull the tray out, and you usually have to pull the tray out a little to give you room to screw in cards, unless you go get a really long screwdriver to fit in the holes they give you. So plan ahead and decide which way you want to go if using a TJ09.

The other issue I ran into, the part of the rad that has the outlets on it is just a touch bigger than the other end, and because of that, it prevented me from having the rad sit with the ports on top. Going the other direction fit without issue. It's not a biggie really, just means the Corsair logo is upside down.

If someone is going to use this with an 1156, I highly recommend reading http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=82317 It explains things a bit better than the instructions that come in the box.

And a tip that that thread kinda mentions, the instructions for putting in the cooler make it seem like you're twisting it and you'd be expecting it to click or something, like it's screwing in. That's not it at all, all you're doing is putting in the cooler through the teeth, then just turning it enough so that the teeth are positioned over the tabs on the cooler.
 
dugn said:
there's no compromise in my cooling :)
Click to expand...

There is a compromise in the bends. More bends in your tubing will impede the flow of the fluid. Seems like you are more concerned with the aesthetics of how the Corsair sticker looks.
 
Hello everyone I would like to know how loud is the h50 compare to a regular heatsink.

I want to oveclock my i5 to 4.0 and some here in the foum recomend me the H50 to keep temps acceptable, then I found this thread and I'm really confuse about the performance of the H50 and how loud is it.

can you someone clear this to me before I get it.?

thanks
 
perrosky said:
Hello everyone I would like to know how loud is the h50 compare to a regular heatsink.

I want to oveclock my i5 to 4.0 and some here in the foum recomend me the H50 to keep temps acceptable, then I found this thread and I'm really confuse about the performance of the H50 and how loud is it.

can you someone clear this to me before I get it.?

thanks
Click to expand...

The stock H50 fan is very quiet. The noise of the fans is based on what type of fan you put on the radiator. Fans can be mounted on either side of the radiator. The pump is quiet. Have not heard mine at all.
 
SonDa5 said:
The stock H50 fan is very quiet. The noise of the fans is based on what type of fan you put on the radiator. Fans can be mounted on either side of the radiator. The pump is quiet. Have not heard mine at all.
Click to expand...

do you overclock? or use stock speed?

how does it keep your temps ?

thank you
 
perrosky said:
do you overclock? or use stock speed?

how does it keep your temps ?

thank you
Click to expand...

I use the Corsair Fan that came with it as a pull fan with larger Scythe Kaze fan pushing.
I posted my temps earlier in this thread. To save you the time of searching here they are again.

stablefluildH50GMSolid.jpg


That is a good little run and it works very well for my voltage and speed.
 
Just installed one in an Antec Mini P180 on a Maximus III Gene. Fits perfectly. Looks great. I'm going to be building 3 systems with the same case/mobo/cooler. This one is stock cooler/paste. The next will be stock cooler/MX-2. And then mine will be push/pull S-Flex 1600 rpm/MX-2. I'll try to test all 3 to monitor temp differences.
 
SonDa5 said:
There is a compromise in the bends. More bends in your tubing will impede the flow of the fluid. Seems like you are more concerned with the aesthetics of how the Corsair sticker looks.
Click to expand...

there's nothing wrong with the way he installed the cooler. the bends youre seeing are from the way he took the picture. its an illusion. as you know the hoses arent really long enough to really do much with them. you certainly cannot bend them enough to impede flowrate unless you actually crimp the hoses.
 
nice....ok so i wanna know how the heck they did that. there's no "bleeder" to fill it up and let the air bubbles out. so how did they account for the air in the system when they refilled it??i thought those systems were 100% full with fluid so i cannot understand how you could refill it without a resevoir/bleeder valve setup.
 
Rogue71 said:
nice....ok so i wanna know how the heck they did that. there's no "bleeder" to fill it up and let the air bubbles out. so how did they account for the air in the system when they refilled it??i thought those systems were 100% full with fluid so i cannot understand how you could refill it without a resevoir/bleeder valve setup.
Click to expand...

Someone in another thread had a good idea.

Quote:

sprout2287 said:
Looks doable to me.

1. install the new tubing on the cpu block first (both in and outlets)
2. totally submerge the radiator and tubing in a bucket of coolant,
3. suck-siphon coolant into the block,
4. connect the pump outlet to the radiator
5. power up the pump and fully bleed it,
6. connect the other tube while the rad is still submerged.
7. thoroughly dry the rad
8. go and play
Click to expand...
 
I was able to test this against my Mugen 2 and my Noctua NH-D14 and I was quite surprised by it.
It actually beat my Mugen 2 with the same fan configuration on my HAF932 (with the back fan as intake as I always use it due to my air duct).
It was able to beat my Mugen 2 by about 4ºC or so which is nice. Of course, my Noctua is doing about 45ºC max load compared to 56ºC or so for my Mugen 2 so the H50 cannot touch the Noctua but for the size, I was happy with it.
Regards
 
another third person modded his H50 with Swiftech MCR220 Radiator (aka) 240mm radiator.

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Good to see this thread back. :)

Great cooler.

The mods look fun but I wonder if the effort is worth the results.
 
Damn the twin radiator got a 11c drop over stock on load i7 4.3ghz! I'm still trying to wrap my brain around how they filled the loop with no reservoir and no air bubbles.
 
I got one today and its better than the watercooling system I had before. My CPU is 7 celsius lower. I had a kit I bought for 120 euro which was ok but I changed the CPU block for an Apogee GTZ but still this CPU cooler has my CPU temps 7 celcius lower with the same hardware and bios settings.
 
does anyone know which revision of this H50 BestBuy online is shipping? The "-1" revision number is not clearly listed and I would like to use my bb gift card from xmas... Otherwise I buy from newegg, the number is listed there. Am I right that the "-1" version is the one to get with 1156 support and metal (vs plastic on the old version) bracket parts...
 
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