Corsair 1000D

[Thunderdolt]

Can anyone comment at all on how the front tempered glass panel is attached? I have an idea for a backlit acrylic plate I would like to use in it's place, but I'm unsure if this is feasible.

The front glass is attached via four glue spots. Mine actually was delivered with three of those four already detached. Got my RMA replacement front panel yesterday.

The old one is destined for the trash - do you want it? Free of course.

 

[FeeNiX Rising]

The front glass is attached via four glue spots. Mine actually was delivered with three of those four already detached. Got my RMA replacement front panel yesterday.

The old one is destined for the trash - do you want it? Free of course.

Just glue? I've been scouring the internet for more than a week for this answer, this is very anticlimactic.
Is it just a glass panel, or are there attached assembly pieces that you also have to replace?

If you still have it handy, the LxHxW of the panel would be greatly appreciated.
It actually would be helpful to have the whole assembly, incase I have to 'screw' one before I 'do' one.
Would it be trouble to take a few pictures of the assembly?

 

[Thunderdolt]

Apologies for the pic dump. Hopefully they make sense as a full set.

Basically, the front panel is a plain piece of glass which has four threaded pucks glued onto it. The pucks are then attached to two molded pieces by screw, and those molded pieces are attached to the rest of the case by 8 (IIRC) screws. It's kind of a pain in the genitals (any gender applicable here - just picture pain wherever yours are) to replace because you have to remove both the top and bottom radiator trays and mounts in order to get access to the screws. I've definitely had more fun being the butt of jokes in crowds than I had doing this component replacement.

Anyway, on my front panel, 3 out of the 4 pucks weren't attached to the glass initially. If you were to make your own front glass replacement, I would just reuse those pucks but with your own glue. Mount the plastic bits in your chassis and trace the puck locations onto that - or just mount the plastic bits alone and take your best guess at the dimensions. Unfortunately, I'm not looking to repeat the genital pain from before, so I can't take measurements between puck centers on just the plastic bits. I bet you could use a flashlight and a measuring tape to get close enough to make a replacement (again - the pucks are just glued on, so you have some wiggle room here).

If it would be helpful, I'm happy to mail you the whole 7-piece pile (4 pucks, 2 molded bits, one piece of glass). If you don't want them, they're just going to end up in the recycling bin.

 

[FeeNiX Rising]

Huge thanks for the pic dump, you've given me answers I couldn't get on at least 4 different modding forums I looked on, AND the corsair forum. I would be interested in getting my hands on it, if shipping isn't a huge hassle. I'm in the USA. How do we set this up?

 

[aznpotpie]

Apologies for the pic dump. Hopefully they make sense as a full set.

Basically, the front panel is a plain piece of glass which has four threaded pucks glued onto it. The pucks are then attached to two molded pieces by screw, and those molded pieces are attached to the rest of the case by 8 (IIRC) screws. It's kind of a pain in the genitals (any gender applicable here - just picture pain wherever yours are) to replace because you have to remove both the top and bottom radiator trays and mounts in order to get access to the screws. I've definitely had more fun being the butt of jokes in crowds than I had doing this component replacement.

Anyway, on my front panel, 3 out of the 4 pucks weren't attached to the glass initially. If you were to make your own front glass replacement, I would just reuse those pucks but with your own glue. Mount the plastic bits in your chassis and trace the puck locations onto that - or just mount the plastic bits alone and take your best guess at the dimensions. Unfortunately, I'm not looking to repeat the genital pain from before, so I can't take measurements between puck centers on just the plastic bits. I bet you could use a flashlight and a measuring tape to get close enough to make a replacement (again - the pucks are just glued on, so you have some wiggle room here).

If it would be helpful, I'm happy to mail you the whole 7-piece pile (4 pucks, 2 molded bits, one piece of glass). If you don't want them, they're just going to end up in the recycling bin.

View attachment 116576 View attachment 116577 View attachment 116578 View attachment 116579 View attachment 116580 View attachment 116581

At least it was just the front! Waited an entire month for a replacement case since they didn’t have the other parts in the beginning.

If you don’t mind me asking, how did you mount the fans on top of the fan tray ontop? I tried to do that and had a brain fart and wouldn’t work.

 

[Deleted member 133315]

yaya was able to fit quad 480mm!View attachment 96283

I like your setup, I would possibly buy it myself, but led’s bug the shit out of me nowadays.

Your setup is nice tho.

 

[aznpotpie]

I like your setup, I would possibly buy it myself, but led’s bug the shit out of me nowadays.

Your setup is nice tho.

One of the funniest part of all of this, i'm actually color blind! I wanted to redo somewiring and things to make iit look nicer but work is taking a toll on me these days.

 

[Thunderdolt]

If you don’t mind me asking, how did you mount the fans on top of the fan tray ontop? I tried to do that and had a brain fart and wouldn’t work.

Did you not have enough vertical clearance? It's entirely possible that I put the tray in upside down when I reassembled things after replacing the front panel. That would give about a fan worth of clearance.

 

[Thunderdolt]

Huge thanks for the pic dump, you've given me answers I couldn't get on at least 4 different modding forums I looked on, AND the corsair forum. I would be interested in getting my hands on it, if shipping isn't a huge hassle. I'm in the USA. How do we set this up?

Happy it helped. I tried to shoot you a PM here but I guess I can't do that yet since my post count isn't high enough. We'll need to find another method.

 

[aznpotpie]

Did you not have enough vertical clearance? It's entirely possible that I put the tray in upside down when I reassembled things after replacing the front panel. That would give about a fan worth of clearance.

Nope, that would make sense!

 

[FeeNiX Rising]

Happy it helped. I tried to shoot you a PM here but I guess I can't do that yet since my post count isn't high enough. We'll need to find another method.

I can try contacting a moderator I'm re-reading all the forum rules to make sure it isn't a violation. In the mean time, if I can make another ask, just the dimensions of the glass panel, without concern of where the mounts go? If you can't pull it off without a lot of work that is totally okay, you've helped me so much already.

I don't need the distance of the mount points from the edge, just the piece of glass. I'm probably going to use an acrylic plate so I can get my designer friend working on the pattern I'm going to cut into a black carbon fiber vinyl piece to go over it.

 

[Thunderdolt]

In the mean time, if I can make another ask, just the dimensions of the glass panel, without concern of where the mounts go?

The glass panel itself is 25.82 x 9.44 x 0.15 inches.

 

[Maconi]

yaya was able to fit quad 480mm!View attachment 96283

How did you get the top rad to mount to the Corsair bracket? On mine the screw holes don't line up (I would need to drill additional holes for every screw because they're all offset) and the lips on the edge of the bracket also interferes with the radiator. The only way I could get it to mount was to use fans first (which offer a tiny bit more flexibility in screw placement) which also avoids issues with the lips on the bracket. I'd rather the RGB fans be visible from the bottom though (push would also probably work better than pull). I guess I could just do push/pull but I would have to leave 2 fans off (front rad in the way) and then I might have negative pressure issues (was shooting for positive case pressure).

 

[Thunderdolt]

How did you get the top rad to mount to the Corsair bracket? On mine the screw holes don't line up (I would need to drill additional holes for every screw because they're all offset) and the lips on the edge of the bracket also interferes with the radiator.

You have to buy the optional 8x120mm tray to get the right hole spacing up top.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...Obsidian-1000D-8x-120mm-Fan-Tray/p/CC-8900160

 

[Maconi]

You have to buy the optional 8x120mm tray to get the right hole spacing up top.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cases/Obsidian-1000D-8x-120mm-Fan-Tray/p/CC-8900160

I have the bracket, it's just that the holes on the radiator are closer to the middle of the fans than the holes on the bracket itself is (they don't line up). When you use the longer screws along with the fans you can angle them enough to get a secure fit, but using the short screws directly into the radiator didn't work for me. I was just curious as to whether he had to drill out the holes or make some other kind of modifications to make it work.

 

[Thunderdolt]

Oh, I see now. Yeah, that's definitely odd. Something is out of spec, and it really could be both the radiator and/or the fan tray. FWIW, I didn't run into the same problem when I put the bigger radiator (only a 360mm in my case) onto mine.

 

[1000D GUY]

yaya was able to fit quad 480mm!View attachment 96283

Can I please ask, do you know the thickness of both rads?.

Is the front rad thicker than the top one?.

And what brand please?.

 

[Thunderdolt]

Can I please ask, do you know the thickness of both rads?.

Is the front rad thicker than the top one?.

And what brand please?.

It can be done at 35mm and under if you're running Push-Pull in the front. If you're running push-only in the front, you can go much thicker but just how thick will vary by rad (both front and top due to the end tank clearance).

That said, keep in mind that the top rads in a 1000D provide a surprisingly small cooling improvement. The front rads are pretty well choked for air due to the solid front panel plus the extended side panels. If you run the top rads as exhaust, they're pulling warm air plus the rear rad is choked off by the motherboard tray, plus the exhaust is largely blocked by the top panel. If you run the top as an intake, not only are the top rads choked by the top panel, but there's also a fair amount of pressure to overcome because you now have 16/32 fans as intakes but only two as exhausts.

It looks cool, but history will forget this case ever existed - and Corsair is happy about that.

 

[NightReaver]

The 1000D is so odd. It should be a watercooling playground. Instead I've seen enough people talk about how such a huge case still manages to feel cramped.

I get tired of these companies half assing this stuff. Build loops in these cases while prototyping. It's like Ramsay says, if it isn't good enough, don't put it on the plate.

 

[1000D GUY]

It can be done at 35mm and under if you're running Push-Pull in the front. If you're running push-only in the front, you can go much thicker but just how thick will vary by rad (both front and top due to the end tank clearance).

That said, keep in mind that the top rads in a 1000D provide a surprisingly small cooling improvement. The front rads are pretty well choked for air due to the solid front panel plus the extended side panels. If you run the top rads as exhaust, they're pulling warm air plus the rear rad is choked off by the motherboard tray, plus the exhaust is largely blocked by the top panel. If you run the top as an intake, not only are the top rads choked by the top panel, but there's also a fair amount of pressure to overcome because you now have 16/32 fans as intakes but only two as exhausts.

It looks cool, but history will forget this case ever existed - and Corsair is happy about that.

Thanks for the reply, I'll be looking to cool the components primarily through water cooling and just be using the front and top push/pull rads for extra air flow really but again thank you.

 

[Thunderdolt]

The 1000D is so odd. It should be a watercooling playground. Instead I've seen enough people talk about how such a huge case still manages to feel cramped.

I get tired of these companies half assing this stuff. Build loops in these cases while prototyping. It's like Ramsay says, if it isn't good enough, don't put it on the plate.

I've been told that this case was a source of conflict within the company. A higher up wanted a flagship case and decided that it should be a two-system streamer case even though that's not what the market wanted. There was a big rush to get the case out in time for an arbitrary deadline, and that pissed off the engineering team which identified all of the issues with airflow and fitment, but there wasn't time and crossfunctional empowerment to resolve them before shipping. Corsair's marketing team didn't even know the full specs of the case, so their own marketing materials have errors in them (the launch info said 2x140mm fans fit in the rear, but someone messed up the design by about 2mm so only 2x120 actually fit).

Side note: if you ever wanted to know if a techtuber is a lying shill (I'm looking at you, Jay and Linus - among others), check out their videos on their "builds" for this case. Jay and Linus both simply read off the line card and said they put 2x140mm exhaust fans in their builds even though they clearly have 120s in their vids.

This was pretty much the last Corsair case that was dysfunctional like this. The next gen (4000/5000/7000) clearly had much more thought put into them. No case is perfect, but these ones really are pretty good.

One nice thing about the 1000D is that it is pretty easy to mod. Drill out a few rivets to remove the magnetic drive cage and suddenly the case becomes a whole lot bigger inside. The front glass panel can be removed and replaced with a mesh. If you're only running two GPUs, you can fit another 120/140mm exhaust fan below the GPUs. One of the faces of the motherboard bumpout can be removed for better airflow from the top rad (which also keeps that warmed air from mixing with the rest of the case air). This clean sheet approach is where the 1000D shines.

 

[vegeta535]

You people need to realize this case is going on 5 years. It is time for a new giant flagship case from Corsair. I would be interested in one if they execute properly.

 

[Thunderdolt]

You people need to realize this case is going on 5 years. It is time for a new giant flagship case from Corsair. I would be interested in one if they execute properly.

Isn’t that what the 7000D is supposed to be?

 

[NightReaver]

Isn’t that what the 7000D is supposed to be?

I wouldn't call that "giant" by any means. The V3000+ for instance says it'll support 4x 480mm rads.

 

[vegeta535]

Isn’t that what the 7000D is supposed to be?

The 7000D is a baby compared to the 1000D still.

 

[NightReaver]

The 7000D is a baby compared to the 1000D still.

Like seriously. 1 480mm radiator? I think it has less rad space than the 900D.

 

[evhvis]

It can be done at 35mm and under if you're running Push-Pull in the front. If you're running push-only in the front, you can go much thicker but just how thick will vary by rad (both front and top due to the end tank clearance).

That said, keep in mind that the top rads in a 1000D provide a surprisingly small cooling improvement. The front rads are pretty well choked for air due to the solid front panel plus the extended side panels. If you run the top rads as exhaust, they're pulling warm air plus the rear rad is choked off by the motherboard tray, plus the exhaust is largely blocked by the top panel. If you run the top as an intake, not only are the top rads choked by the top panel, but there's also a fair amount of pressure to overcome because you now have 16/32 fans as intakes but only two as exhausts.

It looks cool, but history will forget this case ever existed - and Corsair is happy about that.

Front rads aren't choked that much for air. It is a lot less restrictive than it actually looks. The scale of the case is deceptive as the gaps look small in picture, but that is due to the size of the case. There is actually 2cm gap all the way between the door and the front glass panel while there is a 4cm gap between the front glass and the filter. If you shrunk it to a medium sized tower, then the gaps would become small enough that you have an air restriction issue. My 1000D makes my old case look like small form factor and my old case was a full tower (similar size to a 7000D) so all the gaps etc. are quite a different dimension that what you get an impression of from pictures.

One should either run rads at top as exhaust (2x480) or do dual loops. E.g. I use hw labs with 2x480 LX in the front for CPU and 2x360 GTX at the top as exhaust for the GPU (the GTX ware a pin to fit as case doesn't like dual rads at more than 125mm width or so). Running intake and exhaust on the same loop is kind of a waste as the ones drawing air from inside the case will probably cool at around 10-20% effectiveness due to pulling in warm air. Dual loop is nice as the GPU will still be way below air cooling temps when drawing air from the inside the case and running only the CPU on intake causes the temps to barely heat up due to massive radiator space.

The entire point of the 1000D is to be able to fit stuff that normal full tower cases can only dream of. I got it to be able to run very low temps at almost inaudible noise, which is not possible in a full tower. E.g. 40+ db on a single 480 fat rad only gave me 1-2 degrees over running sub 30db on 2x480 fat rads at 200w CPU draw and the sub 30db setup is still 6-7 degrees better than a good 360 aio running at 50+ db while having the option to lower temps by another 3-4 degrees by running at full speed. At stock clocks (142w) I still get 4-5 degrees better than a 360 AIO at almost inaudible levels. With GPU drawing 350w and CPU pulling 120+ I can still stay around 29-30db at 20cm and keep the GPU below 50 degrees and cpu out of reach of any AIO. In a full tower you would have to increase either the temps or the noise and the difference between 30db and 33db is massive (difference between barely noticeable and very noticeable).

Tbh. I have never seen a picture that does the 1000D justice as it looks much nicer in real life than in any picture I have seen of it. Was originally going to get the phanteks elite (due to looks), but the price just spiraled to the point where it was about twice the price of the 1000D and after seeing the 1000D in person I would order the 1000D again even if they both were available at the same price.

 

[evhvis]

The 1000D is so odd. It should be a watercooling playground. Instead I've seen enough people talk about how such a huge case still manages to feel cramped.

I get tired of these companies half assing this stuff. Build loops in these cases while prototyping. It's like Ramsay says, if it isn't good enough, don't put it on the plate.

It is because you throw in 2-3 times as much cooling stuff that you would put in a full tower. It is massive, but space is not unlimited. It is already about 3x the volume of a mid-tower but even if you made it 5x the size, we would just throw in more stuff until it is full

 

[NightReaver]

It is because you throw in 2-3 times as much cooling stuff that you would put in a full tower. It is massive, but space is not unlimited. It is already about 3x the volume of a mid-tower but even if you made it 5x the size, we would just throw in more stuff until it is full

Well the argument being made isn't that the 1000D doesn't have enough volume, it's that it could be using it in better ways from what I've seen/heard.

 

[evhvis]

Well the argument being made isn't that the 1000D doesn't have enough volume, it's that it could be using it in better ways from what I've seen/heard.

There are some minor stuff like the rad trays could be 1cm wider to better fit 130mm wide rads and 4x480 of the fat variety is not possible. The LX480s are HW-labs and 120mm wide, which corsair puts their name on and rebrands the XR7 which fit fine. The GTX360s are 130mm wide and a pain to fit side by side on the trays. If you want 4x480 then you need to go slim, but not that much of an issue IMO.

The thing is that once you start throwing around multiple fat 480 rads, multiple reservoirs etc. then cases start feeling small. It's not a perfect case and it requires some planning to build in, but it is a lot easier than trying to stuff a full tower full of large water cooling. It does have some excellent feature though like the trays that means I can remove the entire CPU loop by removing 4 screws on the water block and 4 disconnecting 4 cables, then it pops out like an AIO (2x480 rads, water block and res combined).

Quite a few would most likely remove the drive bay and HDD cage should have been removable with thumb screws. I use it to mount my GPU-loop res and I am planning to add an HDD for backup, but not gotten to it yet. The SSD mounts on the french doors in the rear can be a bit of a pain to cable manage due to them needing to swing out, but it generally works OK.

Overall I did find it quite easy to build in, but made sure I planned and measured everything before I started building and can't think of any other case where it would have been as easy to build the setup I wanted without larger compromises.

 

[Thunderdolt]

Front rads aren't choked that much for air. It is a lot less restrictive than it actually looks.

They're choked pretty hard. With fans at fixed RPM, I see about a 5C difference in coolant temp under load when the front glass isn't installed. It wouldn't be as bad if the side panels didn't have the aluminum extensions that reach out to the same plane as the front glass.

If you ran 2x480 + 2x360 rads like you have out in the open instead of choked inside of the 1000D, you wouldn't even need fans at all for a little 350W load. That's about enough rad to passively cool a single GPU like that. This is why the case doesn't seem choked for airflow to you.

It certainly is fun to mod the 1000D. In retrospect, however, it would have been a better choice for me to use a regular 8-10 slot case and a pair of external rads/rad sets. Less expensive, easier to build, and better at its core function of cooling.

The entire point of the 1000D is to be able to fit stuff that normal full tower cases can only dream of.

The point of the 1000D was to make a flagship case for dreamy streamers to brag about. That's why it is designed for a regular desktop build + a miniITX dedicated streaming PC. Unfortunately, that use case died off due to hardware accelerated encoding becoming normal, so there is no longer any point in running a dual system like that.

Well the argument being made isn't that the 1000D doesn't have enough volume, it's that it could be using it in better ways from what I've seen/heard.

This. Exactly this. Volume isn't even the right metric for this - ventilated surface area is.

I wouldn't call that "giant" by any means. The V3000+ for instance says it'll support 4x 480mm rads.

I need to look up some builds in the V3000+. The official page for it says 4x480mm at the top, but then the rest of the page says that's impossible.

The 7000D is a baby compared to the 1000D still.

The 7000D is much smaller, but it fits the spot as being Corsair's flagship case. When multi GPU gaming was killed and CPU core counts increased while games didn't utilize the extra core, the two main use cases for the halo build died. The 7000D fits today's halo usage as a single 500W GPU build with a single <200W CPU. The case has more than enough space for radiators for that usage.

That's also ignoring the fact that more and more people are moving to external rads which just plain work better.

I would still love to see Corsair's current case team do a 1000D V2.0 which addresses the case's faults though.

 

[aznpotpie]

One of the faces of the motherboard bumpout can be removed for better airflow from the top rad (which also keeps that warmed air from mixing with the rest of the case air). This clean sheet approach is where the 1000D shines.

Have a picture of this? Do you mean allowing the fans to be ontop of the fan tray? If so thats what I been wanting to do for a long time haha.

Don't know about ya'll, but the amount of money I spent on RGB and the case was worth it, for a long time my daughter would look at the cool lights in the case and fall asleep in my shoulder. Can't put a price on that!

I would still love to see Corsair's current case team do a 1000D V2.0 which addresses the case's faults though.

TBH I would buy two in a heart beat and dump my 7000X, really can't go back after this.

 

[evhvis]

They're choked pretty hard. With fans at fixed RPM, I see about a 5C difference in coolant temp under load when the front glass isn't installed. It wouldn't be as bad if the side panels didn't have the aluminum extensions that reach out to the same plane as the front glass.

If you ran 2x480 + 2x360 rads like you have out in the open instead of choked inside of the 1000D, you wouldn't even need fans at all for a little 350W load. That's about enough rad to passively cool a single GPU like that. This is why the case doesn't seem choked for airflow to you.

It certainly is fun to mod the 1000D. In retrospect, however, it would have been a better choice for me to use a regular 8-10 slot case and a pair of external rads/rad sets. Less expensive, easier to build, and better at its core function of cooling.

My setup is split into 2x360 top mount pushing air outside for the GPU and 2x480 intake for the CPU. The GPU loop is 350w plus pump, CPU loop is around 115-135 plus pump, unless running OC for fun (easily reaches 220-230w on OC). Makes no sense to dump the GPU heat inside the case and running both GPU+CPU on 2x480 would give close to AIO temps or high noise. Doing one loop for both would mean the rads should be pushing air out as the air coming from the front rads will be close to water temp so you would get very little extra cooling on the same loop with rads drawing from that air.

How choked a case seems will depend on the static pressure of the fans. E.g. EK Vardar RGB fans didn't do a good job below 900 or so RPM in my old case, even with rad completely exposed on intake while my current fans could do the same job at 800 RPM and with much lower noise at the same RPM levels. Based on your temp drop I would expect it to either be very high water temps or running fans at a point where they are struggling to get air through the radiator.