CoolIT ECO C240 Performance Review @ [H]

vengence said:
Extreme overclocking has nothing to do with anything tested in this review. Furthremore, the real benefits of watercooling are when you're using a bigger pump and a better (and more restrictive) block to give you lower temperatures. If you're trying to use thermal capacitance to push 30 second benchmarks, you're doing it wrong.
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1) I was referring to the person that said he didn't see the advantage of the simple water cooling device over a good air cooling device, I wasn't referring to the article.

2) I was spot on with what I said. I have a vast amount of experience with overclocking and cooling solutions. The benefits of water cooling solutions are solid, stable temperature control and the avoidance of sudden bursts of heat produced. This has nothing to do with the changes inbetween overclocks and everything to do with the exponential amount of heat produced when the system is running heavy calculations at the overclocked speed. So that when you are in a game and a large amount of calculations comes through, possibly to crunch physics, the processor will work a lot harder, require more power and thus more heat. The temperature can spike and if not dissipated enough can cause instability. Liquid Cooling has a better capacity to handle these changes.
 
Hi Guys,

This is Barry w/ CoolIT. Reading through this discussion I see a couple of recurring themes / thoughts that I wanted to address.

What I like about [H] is that everyone is VERY enthusiastic and passionate. The same can be (and has been) said about me ;) Please before you read on know that I am only trying to share some insight to the market as I understand it and am NOT saying that 'you are doing it wrong'.

High end HSF vs Sealed Loop Arguement
I am seeing this less and less these days as the benefits of a sealed loop are becoming more apparent. When we first introduced this format 5 years ago it was alot harder to justify because the price, ease of use and relative performance wasn't there. Remember that the sealed loop is young.. only 5 years old and since its early, we are still getting drastic improvements from one generation to the next. HSF's are quite mature and not really getting any more efficient.. just getting bigger to accomodate the increased heat being put out by increasingly more powerful components. GTX 480 anyone?

So today things are ALOT more competitive... price and performance and acoustics of a high end HSF and lets say our ECO A.L.C cooler are pretty much on par. So.. why go sealed?
- Getting the weight off your motherboard is a good reason... some hsf's are over 2lb which isn't good for system builders who have to endure shipping or people who transport their PC frequently.
- Getting the heat OUT of your PC case is good for the rest of your components. With a well thought out air flow scheme in your chassis you can do this is hsf's as well but its just a little easier w/ our gear.
- Real Estate - its easier to get in and at other parts of your PC with a sealed liquid system as your cooler. Some HSF's impede DIMM slots etc.
- Installation - I've installed ALOT of different coolers and I honestly believe that our retention system is the most well thought out and easiest to use I have ever seen.

Sealed loop vs DIY
- DIY liquid loops are still the best way to get amazing performance and great acoustics. The sealed loop can't (yet) compete w/ DIY on those grounds but we are working on it. The main issue with DIY going mainstream is not really price but actually the expertise and dedication required to be able to build and maintain a loop. For the record, we are advocates of DIY and over the years have often made our components available to the DIY market. People who build DIY loops are generally pretty smart and are equally often opinion leaders on thermal forums / threads. For CoolIT our main challenge with DIY is just helping people understand that we are not saying our way is better... we are attacking the mainstream hsf market while providing an alternative for those who don't want to take on the DIY project.

Whats next
- We are implementing intelligence into our coolers with our upcoming Vantage A.L.C due to start shipping immediately. So now instead of a relatively unintelligent piece of metal cooling your CPU or GPU you can get an intelligent system that knows what its doing, lets you know what its doing and lets control it the way you want it to. The evolution of that is integration into a software control system that is able to give you important thermal info on your desktop so you can manage your lights and fans just like you do whats running in your system tray.

There are lots of different ways of keeping your hardware cool but today, that decision is more important and difficult than ever. Wow... sorry for the big post but all of this stuff is worthy of discussion. I'll keep an eye on this thread as I am happy to talk about these things and help everyone understand the logic behind our design decisions. If fact, its my job ;)

Cheers,

Barry
 
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Barrolde>>

I'm curious to know how far the intelligence portion will go. Since it'll be able to monitor thermal info, will it be able to adjust the pump speed to reduce noise?

I'm a DIY type of person myself, but when it comes to my secondary or tertiary machines, I'm just too lazy, so I'm always on the lookout for a quiet solution.
 
krotch said:
Barrolde>>

I'm curious to know how far the intelligence portion will go. Since it'll be able to monitor thermal info, will it be able to adjust the pump speed to reduce noise?

I'm a DIY type of person myself, but when it comes to my secondary or tertiary machines, I'm just too lazy, so I'm always on the lookout for a quiet solution.
Click to expand...

Hey Krotch,

The product i'm talking about is called Maestro and should see the light in late Q3. There are some early vids of us showing functionality off at CES on youtube. The interface has cleaned up alot since then... there will be more videos to come.

The concept is that everything you want Maestro to run (pumps, fans, lights etc) gets plugged into our 'control node' you can have as many control nodes as you want in a machine and they all talk to the 'usb node' over ZIGBEE which then of course talks to our client / interface on your desktop. Vantage already has this control node built into it so there is not need to change anything or add anything when you go to Maestro... you will just automatically get that info in your display and be able to tweak all your Vantage variables through there.

If you dont have Vantage, you can still use Maestro to regulate your case fans, hsfan and do your own RGB lighting. Basically its a weapon to optimize the physical PC which is really kinda missing when you think about it. Everything today is all about optimizing the silicon PC.

Maestro supports profiles so you can tell it to go to gaming mode and have aggressive fan curves and red lights or movie mode w/ soft blue lights and whisper quiet fans or.. anything in between.

Shameless self plug: Here is a video of me explaining Vantage and alluding to the Maestro capability to come. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBNE0ldpzuI

BR
 
I think I'll wait till this is available in the US. $38 "international" shipping from Canada is plain crazy.
 
Barrolde said:
Hi Guys,

This is Barry w/ CoolIT. Reading through this discussion I see a couple of recurring themes / thoughts that I wanted to address.
<snip>
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It's a lot of nice marketing speak, but the end result is you're charging 120$ for something I get the same results from a 50$ air cooler. Your comments about the ease of installation are largely useless as I've never spent more than 5 mins messing with any retention system and there's a 70$ price difference. As far as your argument about extra weight on the motherboard, none of these coolers are violating the mechanical loading limits on their respective sockets.

If you'd like to impress the hardware enthusiast market, you'll need to make a product that actually outperforms the 3 year old True 120. If you're goal is to sell an overpriced piece of hardware to the crowd who spends 30$ for a lighted fan and 50$ on neon lights, then I'd say you're on the right track.
 
ethr said:
I think I'll wait till this is available in the US. $38 "international" shipping from Canada is plain crazy.
Click to expand...

It's not all bad, us Canucks for once don't get boned with shipping charges for hardware ;)
 
As far as your argument about extra weight on the motherboard, none of these coolers are violating the mechanical loading limits on their respective sockets.
Click to expand...

I think you better go to Intel.com and actually read the Thermal and Mechanical Guidelines for the various sockets before you make a statement like that.

LGA 1156 - Maximum Heatsink Mass - 500 grams. Intel®Core™ i7-800 and i5-700

The LGA 1366 is interesting as they have gone from a max HS weight to a Dynamic test, I am guessing because of the heat pipe heatsink used in the extreme edition but who knows. All I know is that I would not be comfortable with a big tower HS with a couple of fans on the drop table subjected to this. Hint the 50 g below is not grams.

3 drops each for + and - directions in each of
perpendicular axes (that is, total 18 drops)
Profile: 50 g, Trapezoidal waveform,
4.3 m/s [170 in/s] minimum velocity change

http://download.intel.com/design/processor/designex/320837.pdf


Thermalright Ultra Extreme Weight :790g (Heatsink Only)

Now this (tower heatsinks ripping sockets off of boards) has not been a big problem but you don't want to UPS a system with one of those heatsinks installed unless special internal packing/bracing is used and still might find the HS/CPU and socket in the bottom of the case. Nor do you want to drop it even the last 4 inches onto a desk. On the other hand I don't ship customers water cooled machines filled with coolant either. The only thing holding the actual socket to the board is the solder balls and board flex beyond the Intel preload spec (also in the documents from Intel) is very likely a bad idea for long term reliability.



All this big tower vs inexpensive WCing package has been gone over in the H50 threads, and several others that pop up every 6 months until this horse is just a greasy spot in the road. The numbers are in the review. Decide for yourselves. I suggest watercooling is only for people who want to water cool.

Its WCing in a box, with an AL rad and integrated pump.
 
Wow, I never realized CoolIT was in my hometown. I guess I could just walk over and buy one. No wonder I saw CoolIT products instead of Corsair H50s at the local computer stores.
 
vengence said:
As far as your argument about extra weight on the motherboard, none of these coolers are violating the mechanical loading limits on their respective sockets.
Click to expand...

There were the Venomous X owners that found out too late that tightening the bolt too much exceeds the rated PSI of Intel sockets and ends up compacting the CPU into the socket so far that cooling performance drops. That said, that was about mounting force and not hanging weight of the actual heatsink.
 
BillParrish said:
I think you better go to Intel.com and actually read the Thermal and Mechanical Guidelines for the various sockets before you make a statement like that.

LGA 1156 - Maximum Heatsink Mass - 500 grams. Intel®Core&#8482; i7-800 and i5-700

The LGA 1366 is interesting as they have gone from a max HS weight to a Dynamic test, I am guessing because of the heat pipe heatsink used in the extreme edition but who knows. All I know is that I would not be comfortable with a big tower HS with a couple of fans on the drop table subjected to this. Hint the 50 g below is not grams.

3 drops each for + and - directions in each of
perpendicular axes (that is, total 18 drops)
Profile: 50 g, Trapezoidal waveform,
4.3 m/s [170 in/s] minimum velocity change

http://download.intel.com/design/processor/designex/320837.pdf


Thermalright Ultra Extreme Weight :790g (Heatsink Only)

Now this (tower heatsinks ripping sockets off of boards) has not been a big problem but you don't want to UPS a system with one of those heatsinks installed unless special internal packing/bracing is used and still might find the HS/CPU and socket in the bottom of the case. Nor do you want to drop it even the last 4 inches onto a desk. On the other hand I don't ship customers water cooled machines filled with coolant either. The only thing holding the actual socket to the board is the solder balls and board flex beyond the Intel preload spec (also in the documents from Intel) is very likely a bad idea for long term reliability.



All this big tower vs inexpensive WCing package has been gone over in the H50 threads, and several others that pop up every 6 months until this horse is just a greasy spot in the road. The numbers are in the review. Decide for yourselves. I suggest watercooling is only for people who want to water cool.

Its WCing in a box, with an AL rad and integrated pump.
Click to expand...

Weight was the actual reason I went to the H50. I had been using a TRUE Copper with 2 32x120mm fans on it. I believe it totaled in at 5lbs. it never did any damage to my ex58-ud5 but I just didn't trust it so it was replaced. Cooling wasn't quite as good on the H50 but weight was dramatically less.

As for this cooler it looks good but I would have liked to see it compared against the H50 but I can assume it is better if only by a little.

any plans for a 120x3? or a thicker 120x1(like doubly thick)?
 
People need to keep in mind after reading the review that the test was done inside the case while [H]'s other heatsink tests are done on an open bench setup. That might account for a few extra degrees. It would have been interesting to see how this cooler did in an open air setup as well so that it would be directly comparable.
 
vengence said:
It's a lot of nice marketing speak, but the end result is you're charging 120$ for something I get the same results from a 50$ air cooler. Your comments about the ease of installation are largely useless as I've never spent more than 5 mins messing with any retention system and there's a 70$ price difference. As far as your argument about extra weight on the motherboard, none of these coolers are violating the mechanical loading limits on their respective sockets.

If you'd like to impress the hardware enthusiast market, you'll need to make a product that actually outperforms the 3 year old True 120. If you're goal is to sell an overpriced piece of hardware to the crowd who spends 30$ for a lighted fan and 50$ on neon lights, then I'd say you're on the right track.
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Yes, cause that $50 air cooler is somehow taking all the heat and dumping it right out of the case. Oh wait...it's not.
 
Spare-Flair said:
There were the Venomous X owners that found out too late that tightening the bolt too much exceeds the rated PSI of Intel sockets and ends up compacting the CPU into the socket so far that cooling performance drops. That said, that was about mounting force and not hanging weight of the actual heatsink.
Click to expand...

There is a clamping force (called preload by intel ) spec min and max on the socket and heatsink assembly as well.

Intel is nice about providing engineering specs. Not that we pay a whole lot of attention as the whole concept of OCing is to run "out of spec" but the info is there.

The backplates now used have pretty much solved the issues but still, flexing under the socket is not a good thing and excessive clamping force can damage the socket as mentioned.

Its all good and part of the game. if everything was setup so it was ideal "out of the box" how boring whould that be ?
 
krotch said:
Yes, cause that $50 air cooler is somehow taking all the heat and dumping it right out of the case. Oh wait...it's not.
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Don't mind Vengeance, he is just trying to spread misinformation, because he obviously doesn't understand the actual techniques and systems involved in cooling. He thinks just because you take cooler A and compare it to cooler B, under a idle and then load, that test is enough to determine the usefulness. He completely neglects the fact that there are many other factors, one of which is the rest of the components, weight, space requirements, longevity, extreme temp changes and surges, etc.
 
just for fun if any one cares my setup at 4.0 on an i7 1156 HT on hits ~45c in an 27c room
load is ~55c
even when its 30c or so in the room the highest temp at load i have seen is with the intel burntest was 80c in a 30c room
not bad if you ask me
again this is with the H50
 
krotch said:
Yes, cause that $50 air cooler is somehow taking all the heat and dumping it right out of the case. Oh wait...it's not.
Click to expand...

Yes, and then 90% of cases these days have 120mm exhaust fan 1in from the back of the CPU cooler which also has a 120mm fan blowing right into the first. You're claim is that a significant amount of heat is actually being transfered before that air exits the case? What's next, you're going to claim you have convection currents in your case?
 
vengence said:
Yes, and then 90% of cases these days have 120mm exhaust fan 1in from the back of the CPU cooler which also has a 120mm fan blowing right into the first. You're claim is that a significant amount of heat is actually being transfered before that air exits the case? What's next, you're going to claim you have convection currents in your case?
Click to expand...

So you're claiming that 100% of that heat is going to go from the CPU cooler, right outside of the case, cause you have a 120mm exhaust fan there. That absolutely 0% of it is going to stay within the case. You must be a fool if you think that is the case.

Now am I saying the heat that stays circulating inside is going to be significant. No. Am I saying that parts are going to break cause of it? No. What I can say is that it's possible the increased heat can lower your max overclock.
 
krotch said:
So you're claiming that 100% of that heat is going to go from the CPU cooler, right outside of the case, cause you have a 120mm exhaust fan there. That absolutely 0% of it is going to stay within the case. You must be a fool if you think that is the case.

Now am I saying the heat that stays circulating inside is going to be significant. No. Am I saying that parts are going to break cause of it? No. What I can say is that it's possible the increased heat can lower your max overclock.
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"it's possible" So definitive :rolleyes:

The reality of the situation is in the best conditions this cooler takes 3-5 degrees off a 120 ultra with a single 1600 120mm fan. If you put pair of high end 2000rpm fans on it, you're going to see that lead disappear and perhaps even the true 120 beat this water cooler. If you're that concerned about the extra heat, just duct the damn true and you're going to have lower temperatures from it.
 
Yes, because everyone you've said is fact. Hell, the benchmark for the closed loop wasn't even a fair comparison. Nor does it show the tempatures of other portions in the case.

Sorry if I can't be definitive, when I have neither the closed loop cooler or the heatsink to test with. I'd rather be non-definitive, than attempt to pass opinion as fact.
 
krotch said:
Yes, because everyone you've said is fact. Hell, the benchmark for the closed loop wasn't even a fair comparison. Nor does it show the tempatures of other portions in the case.

Sorry if I can't be definitive, when I have neither the closed loop cooler or the heatsink to test with. I'd rather be non-definitive, than attempt to pass opinion as fact.
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If you read the article, they talk about the temperature of the case and it's change from ambient. The benchmark for the closed loop was a better case than the benchmark for the air cooler as it used more, and higher powered fans.
 
vengence said:
If you read the article, they talk about the temperature of the case and it's change from ambient. The benchmark for the closed loop was a better case than the benchmark for the air cooler as it used more, and higher powered fans.
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Can you prove that? How do you know there was no industry fan blowing in the test lab while doing the open air cooling testing? How do you know the fans used in the case were better than the fans used for the heatsinks? You make way more assumptions than anyone else Vengeance, and you lack the proper understanding of cooling as well, as has been demonstrated throughout this thread.

Here are some other things that haven't been mentioned, but since you want to grasp at straws I will put some other elements in.

Air cooling becomes less effective when dust builds up as it can interfere with some of the heat transfer and the effectiveness of the fans when they start to get clogged up. A closed loop system does not have quite the same detriment, as the heat transfer is all done internally and the only fans you are worried about are the exhaust fans. Plus if you use water cooling on your hottest components, you don't need to add intake fans, and only need the exhaust fans, which can make the case quieter and reduce the amount of dust that gets into the system. Temperature changes in the air much quicker than that in water, so temperatures fluctuations as mentioned before, are much more gradual in a close loop system. Also, in a an air cooling system you are depending on proper airflow to pull the heat away, which requires a good understanding of air pressure and flow design for the case. With a close loop solution, you are mainly concerned with the exhaust fans and you don't need to rely on air pressure or air flow inside the case. Then there is the weight issue on the motherboard and the socket for the cpu. Then you have the issue of clearance to fit the heatsink. And as for your claims that 5 degrees is a small number. When you are working around 30 degrees, that is a 16% improvement in your cooling. How much do you pay for a 16% boost in your graphics cards or processors?

So why would you want to buy a closed loop system? My question is, why wouldn't you? Because you have to spend an extra $50? This is an enthusiast site, if you aren't willing to spend a mere $50 more for a better, more stable cooling solution, then why are you here?

And for the record, the price for these closed loops systems is far less than the price most liquid coolers pay for their own custom setup. If you think about the cost of piping, pump, waterblock, radiator, and fluid, it will cost much more to do it independently. So this is a good price for a good simple product, especially when you see that it can help improve cooling.
 
vengence said:
If you read the article, they talk about the temperature of the case and it's change from ambient. The benchmark for the closed loop was a better case than the benchmark for the air cooler as it used more, and higher powered fans.
Click to expand...

Ya, the tempature of the case for the watercooler. The aircoolers didn't even sit inside a case.

Also the benchmark was for 2 fans pushing, 2 fans pulling, and 4 fans pushing/pulling. The only ones to beat the ECO C240 (Push) was the Spire Eclipse X2 and the Scythe Yasya, both of which are also louder. Both of which also in an open air environment, compared to the ECO. None of them beat the ECO C240 (Push) under stock clock.


From the review
What is even more interesting is that the ECO C240 is inside a case for these tests where the air coolers were tested on our open air platform.
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NoOther said:
And for the record, the price for these closed loops systems is far less than the price most liquid coolers pay for their own custom setup. If you think about the cost of piping, pump, waterblock, radiator, and fluid, it will cost much more to do it independently. So this is a good price for a good simple product, especially when you see that it can help improve cooling.
Click to expand...

Ya, no kidding. Think I blew $500 on my setup. Not to mention, I needed a case to fit the quad 120mm heatercore.
 
So I am a watercooling noob and I was wondering something about attaching radiators. With this product you are supposed to use 2X120mm exhaust fan spaces on your case. How do custom WC units work? I see people with 3X120mm rads and even 4X120mm rads, obviously cases do not have 4X120mm fan spots on them (usually) so how do you "mount" these rads. I have seen picutures of these big rads in people's cases and have been wondering how they are mounted, and also how they are getting airflow.
 
Mounting them all depends on person and the case they bought. Some cases will have a place to mount then by default. Other ppl will mod their cases to fit larger.

Wirbelwind%20-%20small.JPG


My quad heatercore sits in the bottom of my case. The hdd bays were removed and it slides right it. Custom built hdd cage, as the originals are too high. I wouldn't be able to fit the PSU and the hdds together. Case panel is cut on both sides to allow air to go in from one side of the case, then exhaust out the other.

You can go with a Swiftech Radbox. It allows you to mount a radiator to any size fan hole. You'll need to drill 2 holes in your case for the tubing to go out. Course nowadays, many cases will already have preexisting holes.

apex2-installed.jpg
 
krotch said:
Mounting them all depends on person and the case they bought. Some cases will have a place to mount then by default. Other ppl will mod their cases to fit larger.


My quad heatercore sits in the bottom of my case. The hdd bays were removed and it slides right it. Custom built hdd cage, as the originals are too high. I wouldn't be able to fit the PSU and the hdds together. Case panel is cut on both sides to allow air to go in from one side of the case, then exhaust out the other.

You can go with a Swiftech Radbox. It allows you to mount a radiator to any size fan hole. You'll need to drill 2 holes in your case for the tubing to go out. Course nowadays, many cases will already have preexisting holes.
Click to expand...

Looks like you are water cooling your memory? Does that even help? I had some flex xlc memory before but I didn't see that huge of a difference when I was cooling them, plus it used 1/4" barbs while my loop was 1/2" so it added a lot of restriction.
 
Bootleg Usher said:
So I am a watercooling noob and I was wondering something about attaching radiators. With this product you are supposed to use 2X120mm exhaust fan spaces on your case. How do custom WC units work? I see people with 3X120mm rads and even 4X120mm rads, obviously cases do not have 4X120mm fan spots on them (usually) so how do you "mount" these rads. I have seen picutures of these big rads in people's cases and have been wondering how they are mounted, and also how they are getting airflow.
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Mod them or get specialized cases, such as those from here:

http://www.mountainmods.com/

I have a mountain mods U2-UFO Duality and had 2 sets of 3x120 radiators in mounted in the front. I have a friend with the Ascension Duality which essentially puts your motherboard horizontal and he has all his watercooling mounted on the bottom of the case with 2 sets of 3x120 rads in the front.
 
krotch said:
Ya, no kidding. Think I blew $500 on my setup. Not to mention, I needed a case to fit the quad 120mm heatercore.
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Heh, try almost $1500 for my last watercooling system. Granted I was cooling far more components and built it for redundancy, but it was pricey.
 
Air cooling is better for some people, DIY is better for some, sealed liquid is better for some. My goal was only to provide some insight into our design desicions.

Remember we are encouraging discussion, not fights but I do like the passion and will stay around the [H} boards.. just waiting to get MFG status from [H] :)

Cheers,

Barry
 
Barrolde said:
Hi Guys,

This is Barry w/ CoolIT. Reading through this discussion I see a couple of recurring themes / thoughts that I wanted to address.

What I like about [H] is that everyone is VERY enthusiastic and passionate. The same can be (and has been) said about me ;) Please before you read on know that I am only trying to share some insight to the market as I understand it and am NOT saying that 'you are doing it wrong'.

High end HSF vs Sealed Loop Arguement
I am seeing this less and less these days as the benefits of a sealed loop are becoming more apparent. When we first introduced this format 5 years ago it was alot harder to justify because the price, ease of use and relative performance wasn't there. Remember that the sealed loop is young.. only 5 years old and since its early, we are still getting drastic improvements from one generation to the next. HSF's are quite mature and not really getting any more efficient.. just getting bigger to accomodate the increased heat being put out by increasingly more powerful components. GTX 480 anyone?

So today things are ALOT more competitive... price and performance and acoustics of a high end HSF and lets say our ECO A.L.C cooler are pretty much on par. So.. why go sealed?
- Getting the weight off your motherboard is a good reason... some hsf's are over 2lb which isn't good for system builders who have to endure shipping or people who transport their PC frequently.
- Getting the heat OUT of your PC case is good for the rest of your components. With a well thought out air flow scheme in your chassis you can do this is hsf's as well but its just a little easier w/ our gear.
- Real Estate - its easier to get in and at other parts of your PC with a sealed liquid system as your cooler. Some HSF's impede DIMM slots etc.
- Installation - I've installed ALOT of different coolers and I honestly believe that our retention system is the most well thought out and easiest to use I have ever seen.

Sealed loop vs DIY
- DIY liquid loops are still the best way to get amazing performance and great acoustics. The sealed loop can't (yet) compete w/ DIY on those grounds but we are working on it. The main issue with DIY going mainstream is not really price but actually the expertise and dedication required to be able to build and maintain a loop. For the record, we are advocates of DIY and over the years have often made our components available to the DIY market. People who build DIY loops are generally pretty smart and are equally often opinion leaders on thermal forums / threads. For CoolIT our main challenge with DIY is just helping people understand that we are not saying our way is better... we are attacking the mainstream hsf market while providing an alternative for those who don't want to take on the DIY project.

Whats next
- We are implementing intelligence into our coolers with our upcoming Vantage A.L.C due to start shipping immediately. So now instead of a relatively unintelligent piece of metal cooling your CPU or GPU you can get an intelligent system that knows what its doing, lets you know what its doing and lets control it the way you want it to. The evolution of that is integration into a software control system that is able to give you important thermal info on your desktop so you can manage your lights and fans just like you do whats running in your system tray.

There are lots of different ways of keeping your hardware cool but today, that decision is more important and difficult than ever. Wow... sorry for the big post but all of this stuff is worthy of discussion. I'll keep an eye on this thread as I am happy to talk about these things and help everyone understand the logic behind our design decisions. If fact, its my job ;)

Cheers,

Barry
Click to expand...

All I want to know is which cases does this work with in a perfect way so that i can inspect and price them and read some reviews and see if i should get rid of my p180 or my scout for of those cases. I'm sure once the coolit forums get busy with the eco240mm and user feedback comes in i'll be able to use the unit.
 
Barrolde said:
Air cooling is better for some people, DIY is better for some, sealed liquid is better for some. My goal was only to provide some insight into our design desicions.

Remember we are encouraging discussion, not fights but I do like the passion and will stay around the [H} boards.. just waiting to get MFG status from [H] :)

Cheers,

Barry
Click to expand...

Good to see a Calgary company coming out with interesting products. Can we pickup in town? :D
 
Sooo the consensus is...

Even this 240mm closed-loop hasn't closed the performance gap with the highest end air coolers for high OC's on high TDP CPU/s?
Man I was so hoping...... :(

Or has my sleep deprived brain misinterpreted this thread as I read through it?
Sorry, night.......
 
I got this unit in a push config.

It works for me because I needed access to all DIMM slots, and it exhausts air out of my case.

It's cheaper, with less maintenance than a full blown watercooling set up, while keeping good airflow and motherboard functionality. It's near silent with good fans as well. I'm running an i7 930 at 4ghz at barely a hum with 12gigs, 2x6 and GTX460 sli. 4x3 was an option but only at a premium more than the compared cost of this cooler to the TRUE.

I look forward to seeing this vs the H70.
 
Gyroscope said:
I got this unit in a push config.
It works for me because I needed access to all DIMM slots, and it exhausts air out of my case.
It's cheaper, with less maintenance than a full blown watercooling set up, while keeping good airflow and motherboard functionality. It's near silent with good fans as well. I'm running an i7 930 at 4ghz at barely a hum with 12gigs, 2x6 and GTX460 sli.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your insights, tis greatly appreciated!
There's 6GB ram sticks now, wouldn't they not be worth the premium?

4x3 was an option but only at a premium more than the compared cost of this cooler to the TRUE.
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Not getting this sentence, are you referring to your RAM configuration?
If you are I'm surprised by this "premium" you speak of, I'd have thought 4x 3GB would be roughly the same, not significantly more.

I look forward to seeing this vs the H70.
Click to expand...

Yes indeed...
The price/performance ratio should be interesting, I wonder which'll come out on top!?
 
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jalyst said:
Thanks for your insights, tis greatly appreciated!
There's 6GB ram sticks now, wouldn't they not be worth the premium?

Not getting this sentence, are you referring to your RAM configuration?
If you are I'm surprised by this "premium" you speak of, I'd have thought 4x 3GB would be roughly the same, not significantly more.

Yes indeed...
The price/performance ratio should be interesting, I wonder which'll come out on top!?
Click to expand...


I wanted to use Triple Channel on my X58 board. I ended up with two of these Cas7 ddr1600 for $335.

Compared to the 4x3 DDR1600 kits, they all start $480 for Cas9.

I couldn't find a better deal than the ram I picked. Could have gone with slower 4x3 DDR1333 and save around 30 but didn't. There is at least a $130 difference at this point regarding 1600 rated ram with slower timings.

So choosing between the $130 difference of ram choices, or $40 between cpu coolers. Strictly using the example of TRUE vs CoolIT Eco 240. Everything is subjective though, I don't regret it and am happy with my decision.
 
my bad i thought you were saying 2x 6GB, not 6x 2GB.
See what you were getting at now....
 
So anyone else?
Have I misinterpreted the thread/review?
Thank-you!

jalyst said:
Sooo the consensus is...

Even this 240mm closed-loop hasn't closed the performance gap with the highest end air coolers for high OC's on high TDP CPU/s?
Man I was so hoping...... :(

Or has my sleep deprived brain misinterpreted this thread as I read through it?
Sorry, night.......
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