Coolgate Quad 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger

Nebulous

Nebulous

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
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Picked this rad up a few weeks ago, and decided to swap out rads as I was gonna add my 1070 into my loop. I was using an XSPC RX360 with 6 BitFenix Spectre Pro PWM fans in push/pull and got really good temps.

Anyways fast forward to yesterday. I go about swapping rads only, and adding a pair more of fans. I do the fill and bleed dance for several hours and left the rig on overnight to finish the process.

Today I get on the rig and decide to run XTU to check the temps and see how well it does. To my dismay the temps shot through the roof! I mean 90c! in less than a minute of running! I shut off XTU with the quickness and start checking to see if I lost water or my fans/pump isn't running. Everything checks out, but I'm still getting horrible temps.

I've tilted this case in every conceivable angle to get all the air out, but still getting really poor performance out of this rad.

Did I miss anything? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Check if there is a blockage/restriction inside the rad.
 
You know I looked at that too, but nope, doesn't matter. There has to be air trapped somewhere inside this dam thing.
 
Soft. Nope, can't bleed out of the case. Using my google-fu I was able to find a review for the 360 model and there's a plug at the bottom of the rad. Review stated it was a bleeder for vertical mounting of the rad to help bleed. I'm going to have to lay my case on it's back where the I/O ports are, that way the bleeder port, which is in the front of the case, will be ontop, and I'll see if that will work getting whatever is trapped inside out.

Hopefully that will do it. I hope..
 
Something come loose from the new rad and block flow in your cpu block?

Even a crappy aluminum rad should do better than that. Hell, an aio should do better than that.
 
I seriously hope not. I just fired up the pc and heard gurgling. Fucking air. Imma try the tilt on its back and loosen the bleeder plug and see.
 
Welp, tilted the case on it's back, removed front panel and slowly removed the bleeder plug. Nothing came out and the water level is right to the tippy top. Put the plug back in, righted up the case and when i fired up didn't hear any gurgling sounds. Ran XTU again, and again the temps shot up. I dunno what else to do at this point.
 

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Figured I'd reseat the block to see if that changes anything...no joy :cry:
 
So, the way I see it, something is causing a major blockage. Either your cpu or gpu blocks are blocked with some debris or maybe the new radiator is blocked internally somehow.

Either take apart your blocks and see if there is something blocking water flow or swap the RX360 back in and see if that helps. There is clearly something wrong with your loop. I can't believe that any 480mm radiator could be that bad without being defective from the factory. It could be a massive amount of air in your cpu block, but that shouldn't happen with a good flow rate and the twisting and shaking you've been doing.

Is your 1070 already in the loop? What do its temperatures look like if it is in your loop?
 
Haven't put the 1070 in the loop yet. This is just a cpu loop atm. After all the shaking/tilting I've been doing, me thinks this particular rad is somehow blocked with something. The cpu block is clear as a bell as i cleaned it about a month ago when i was adding the heatercore to loop with the RX480 and the MCW82 block.

Checked the tubing and they're both cool as cucumbers. I don't feel any heat coming from the rad either.
 
Indeed it is. I got it adjust to full speed just to be sure it's working. All 5 speeds work fine. I'm thinking, and this may be a long shot, but this particular rad may be defective some way/somehow. The person I bought it from has 2 more and he's willing to send me another one to swap.
 
Someone in another forum just mentioned my lines are crossed for this rad. Ive been having my lines setup like this for years with the 360. Confirm?
 

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I dont know what that means.
Pipes dont exist in 2 dimensions.

I cant see a fundamental problem.

You mentioned earlier that your rad has a strange plug on it.
Maybe this influences the direction of flow.
Try swapping the pipes at the rad.
 
As I suspected, there is no specific inlet or outlet with this particular rad. I'm thinking over time whatever air is trapped inside will eventually come out. I'll just have to keep doing the tilt dance and adjust flowrate to help it along. My arms are sore already flipping this dam monster every which way to bleed it, lol.
 
Get in touch with the mfr.
I cant swallow the trapped air diagnosis unless there is a fault.
 
So just to be clear, because the cpu block was clear last month you are assuming it is fine now. No way a piece of Flux broke free from new rad and is blocking flow.

Unless your whole cpu block is filled with air, air bubbles should not be the problem.
 
Not only did I wash it out last month, I also blasted it out with my air compressor in both directions even after I put it back together. I'll take the entire loop apart and triple check again, but I'm 100% sure nothing is in the block. Hell I'll even blast out the rad too. I'll do that tomorrow as I'm not going to be spending my football Sunday dicking around with this, lol.
 
Can you leave it for a prolonged period of time with the radiator not at the top of the loop? That should help with bleeding.
 
Hmm, that will be difficult. I'll try something tho that's for sure. There has to be a vacume pocket of some sort, but imma check everything. Thx for the idea.
 
Unless
Nebulous said:
Not only did I wash it out last month, I also blasted it out with my air compressor in both directions even after I put it back together. I'll take the entire loop apart and triple check again, but I'm 100% sure nothing is in the block. Hell I'll even blast out the rad too. I'll do that tomorrow as I'm not going to be spending my football Sunday dicking around with this, lol.
Click to expand...

The last month part is pretty much meaningless as I am talking about it becoming blocked after you added the new radiator. Air blasting the water block it is not going to do anything if there is actually some obstruction as there is no way that air will be able to break up and force some physical debris through the raystorm water block. You could absolutely be right, but basically it comes down to the following:

1. You have the worst contact ever between your water block and cpu. You said you remounted it so this is unlikely.

2. Your voltages are super high and that is sending temperatures so high that the CPU block just can't transfer heat fast enough. The screenshot you provided is showing a relatively high voltage even at 0% load. Is the voltage going higher when you stress test? Did you set the overlock yourself or is your BIOS doing an auto overclock to get it to the speed you set it at (this could lead to some crazy high voltages). This is fairly unlikely unless you changed your settings after you swapped radiators.

3. Your CPU water block is blocked by something. The jet plate in Raystorm block has a pretty small slit for water to pass through, so all it would take is a a bit of solder or something to block it and kill your flow rate and temperatures. I also have a Raystorm and every time I take it apart there are bits of random debris clogging it up. Most of it seems to be plastic from the plastic threads on the raystorm block and the top of my MCP35X pump. Screwing metal fittings into plastic parts seems to cut a bit of plastic off with enough repetition.

4. Your new radiator is blocked somehow. Either it was improperly built, or damaged somewhere along the way. Could be a flow channel was smashed or blocked by some debris. What pump do you have by the way?

5. Air bubbles, but this seems pretty unlikely at this point unless your pump is so weak that it just can't push them through the water block. Air bubbles in your radiator really aren't going to kill your temperature like that so it would either be bubbles in the pump or bubbles in the water block. .
 
Nenu said:
Check if there is a blockage/restriction inside the rad.
Click to expand...

Nebulous said:
That's what I thought as well, but nope, clear as a bell.
Click to expand...

How can you see that it is clear as a bell? What I do to check is put a fitting on, then a length of hose, fill it with water, and then see if I can blow the water out w/o much effort.

Then there's the if there was gunk in the rad and it got loose and is now clogging your cpu block possibility which is a very real possibility. Heavily finned blocks end up acting at filters, almost always in my experience. It's a pita, but it in a way makes it easy to track down clogs.
 
Spent my football Sunday taking this dang thing apart, and rewashed everything. The only thing inside the block was a tiny bit of lint, nothing else. The tiny bit of lint found would not hurt flow. Nothing in the rad. I thought I blew apart the channels with my air compressor, lol. Reassembled everything back and refilled. Left it on overnight to bleed. This am started doing the tilt dance again. Still refilling and bleeding. Haven't stressed yet.
 
Finished bleeding and topped off. Started XTU up again and temps got somewhat better, but far from what it's supposed to be. I don't understand why a rad would give me so much trouble.
 

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