CCD MI-6: Performance in a 6.7L MIcrotower

Hi guys,

As I mentioned the polling shows a majority opinion of keeping the style close to the original. It's ok to maybe add some venting, and get rid of back flanges, but don't get all chaotic or have crazy large vent holes.

(I did set it up so a person could vote for favorites, not just a single favorite, so I hope everyone noticed that and utilized it)

The path forward--

Well, a quick look at what we have so far: The design is getting pretty mature and I am close to finalizing all the details. There have been a astounding number of details, starting with fitting everything in, designing in some build flexibility, dimensioning, tolerancing and of course the mind-numbing struggle to find a home for the USB and audio. I would say the design is 95% complete.

There are a few details still wiggling around a bit, --such as making sure the screws holding the HDD bracket to the case aren't too long and damage the back of the front plate*, are common to another screw, and will work with slots in the bracket to make it easy to install/remove.

*A minor detail I'm working on is preventing any contact/damage to the back of the front plate, so the back could be flipped to face the front, enabling the owner to customize one face without having to buy another front plate.

Ok, some other details I'm working are: thin felt strips to contact areas to prevent scraping and rattling, adding an allowance for powder coat thickness to all affected interfaces, finishing revisions to component and assembly drawings. Things like that. I noticed that the headphone jack is a bit glitchy sometimes, so I need to get with the mfgr. blah, blah, blah.

So, great news is that the cover is very close to completion! I worked on it some tonight, and should have some thing up tomorrow night. I'm thinking no back flange, continuous venting on top but in a clean rectangle shape, and the larger top bends. This should be a best fit to the polling data. Doesn't mean everyone will be overjoyed, just most, and hopefully no one will be horribly disappointed. The pricing on the cover has always been a difficult problem, especially with low volumes. I think this revision will help the costing.

Color: Planning black textured powdercoat all over, except front plate. It will be black anodized mirror or brushed finish.

So, I plan to proceed with a production run, if there is sufficient interest of course. I has been more of a hobby than a business venture, and low volume runs is the pricing model. If interest picks up then it would be nice to entertain larger volumes.

So here is a rough timeline:
Sept: Finish details, get new quote packages, get audio glitching straightened out.
Early Oct: Finalize pricing and set up a pre-order list. Publicize in various forums. I plan to utilize a website forum thread (like the Project mATX does) for pre-ordering and purchasing. This could change, but right now I am planning to start small, and not use a kickstarter.
Mid Oct: Be ready to run a First Edition depending on pre-order interest, somewhere between 30 and 100 cases, probably closer to 30.

Caveats: Li Heat is revising their PCIE3.0 riser to fit more models of pcie mb connectors. I do not have timing from them yet on when they could ship. I may need to revise the case to accept various risers (3M, TT, 2.0, etc) as a contingency plan. As I mentioned, the audio board I am testing needs to be looked into. I do not know supplier timing yet, but some of the general lead times on quotes were 4-6 wks.

Whew, that's all I have right now. I will re-read the posts of the last few days and try to respond and get caught up.

Thanks everyone!!
 
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I'm in regardless of the final design. I've been using the L3 case for awhile now for my SFF. Even though it's an amazing case. I need one that can utilize a better GPU than the 750 ti. Hopefully I don't miss out
 
Yeah, I'll hang on to it. There is so much material that has to be removed to get to a smooth surface that I can't do it by hand and keep the flatness. My son has a 4790k that he doesn't overclock and has wee little cooler on it. It should be a step up for this computer. He plays Fallout4 and some other graphically complex games, so if we put it in there I'll do a quick comparison and let the horde know.

Well my son and i polished the is60 cooler some more and stuck it on his i7-4790k. He had been running 85-90c playing lol or fallout4, and it came down to 80c or less. So that's an improvement.
 
Original spacing on the front panel hardware. Instead of just machine screws, I would suggest screws and finishing washers. Abee does this and I think it looks great - it turns eye sores into decorative elements.

Continuous top venting pattern, so that it does not remind me of a toaster every time I look at it. (...) But... no vent holes to the left and right of the ports. Top and side vents should match and be aligned. If we could have any pattern, then I would like the "Death Star wall" pattern that Case Labs and Thermaltake are using - I think it is a good compromise of performance and looks -- and it is already used with large holes on the back.

I saw those screws on the Abee case, and they do look nice. I can't quite tell if they are special screws or special washers. Hmm.

The slotted venting on caselabs and such, i like that too. I'll model that and see what it looks like. You are right that there would be a tie in on the back since I have the offset slots there already.
 
Okay, back to reality…

I vote for the original spacing on the front panel hardware…

The full coverage top venting…

The no-flange cover; but I still say make the shell wrap under the chassis enough to use the feet as thumb screws to fasten said shell to said chassis…

The standard venting on the sides, but no rounding off of the pattern, nor of the top pattern…

I like that you opened up the GPU / PCI bracket area (one large opening)…

With just the single thumb screw on the back, the scale of the single piece is acceptable…

I am awaiting some high resolution desktop suitable renders of the above conglomeration…!

As always, thx bro for the ideas. I agree that the asymmetric screws on the side panels are not exactly art. I'll see how i could have the cover bend under the case for attachment, -hopefully not a cost driver. We'll see.
 
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I personally like the complete chaos for my own computer, but i just found out that there is a significant price premium. At some point it would be fun to offer that cover as an option or separate accessory. A bit of pie in the sky.
 
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As always, thx bro for the ideas. I agree that the asymmetric screws on the side panels are not exactly art. I'll see how i could have the cover bend under the case for attachment, -hopefully not a cost driver. We'll see.

Definitely look into that…!

I you were to remove the four pieces of hardware that attach the from panel (maybe have to front panel attach from the inside of the chassis…?), and used the four feet as the thumb screws that attach the outer shell to the inner chassis; people would be looking all around trying to figure out how the chassis actually opens…!

And then BAM…!, right there underneath, the hidden thumb screw feet…!
 
Mid Oct: Be ready to run a First Edition depending on pre-order interest, somewhere between 30 and 100 cases, probably closer to 30.

This excites me…!

Caveats: Li Heat is revising their PCIE3.0 riser to fit more models of pcie mb connectors. I do not have timing from them yet on when they could ship. I may need to revise the case to accept various risers (3M, TT, 2.0, etc) as a contingency plan. As I mentioned, the audio board I am testing needs to be looked into. I do not know supplier timing yet, but some of the general lead times on quotes were 4-6 wks.

If you forgo the 'front panel' connections; no need for the USB / Audio at all, less holes to be made, less hardware fitting attachment points to work about, lower overhead due to no PCB/cable assembly & no worries about the cabling in the chassis…!

Also, no blue USB right up top…!

That blue REALLY clashed with the red chassis rendering you did…

Just a thought, this chassis is rather compact, so giving it the old reach around for USB or audio should not be too much of an issue…?

As for the PCIe riser cable, you know I am gonna vote for the best possible component available…! Bring on that 3M goodness…! ;^p
 
Have you thought about recessing or countersinking the screw heads? Here's a photo of an old Cooler Master Praetorian that has a very similar aluminum front panel. I think it keeps the screws from being overly conspicuous.

Praetorian.jpg
 
This excites me…!



If you forgo the 'front panel' connections; no need for the USB / Audio at all, less holes to be made, less hardware fitting attachment points to work about, lower overhead due to no PCB/cable assembly & no worries about the cabling in the chassis…!

Also, no blue USB right up top…!

That blue REALLY clashed with the red chassis rendering you did…

Just a thought, this chassis is rather compact, so giving it the old reach around for USB or audio should not be too much of an issue…?

As for the PCIe riser cable, you know I am gonna vote for the best possible component available…! Bring on that 3M goodness…! ;^p

Yeah, but THAT riser is bloody expensive mate! Probably more than a $40 premium over the Li Heat!
 
Have you thought about recessing or countersinking the screw heads? Here's a photo of an old Cooler Master Praetorian that has a very similar aluminum front panel. I think it keeps the screws from being overly conspicuous.

Praetorian.jpg

Well I started out with recesses, way back 6 mos ago. The front plate was very expensive, so one of the cost cutting changes was to go simple so even a caveman could make it with a cutting laser. That left counterboring out of the question.
 
Ok,
So a quick update on the latest cover refinement!!

-BUT first we need to address the chaos, and I mean complete chaos that has been the polling site over the last 24 hours. Yesterday, there were 51 votes, now this evening there are 54 (!) And, the votes put the complete chaos that is design F in a three way tie for first place (!!) Even design B, which I keeping forgetting what the hex it is, gained votes and is within 1 of the tie for first place (!!!)

Now I'm not saying someone found a box of ballots (or IP addresses) in the trunk of someone's car or anything... But if we follow the money, we'll see that Complete Chaos has formed a 301c tax exempt PAC, and has funding from the dark net (!!!!)

But seriously (kinda), I appreciate the additional votes and would love to hear from the F lobbyists. As I think I mentioned earlier, that design does carry a bit of a premium cost, so I don't think I can make it the primary path. I pledge to carry the design along with the case work, and hopefully fab it at some point as a option or separate buy. Deal? good.

Ok, now the renders of the latest------ (with black screws and chrome screws)

Mi-6%20Assy%20try%2018%20simplediv%20r25%20wideplatescrews%20noflanges.png
chrome%20Mi-6%20Assy%20try%2018%20simplediv%20r25%20wideplatescrews%20noflanges.png
chrome1%20Mi-6%20Assy%20try%2018%20simplediv%20r25%20wideplatescrews%20noflanges.png


I should have stagger (60 deg) hole patterns and offset slot patterns tomorrow.
 
I got the staggered 60 deg pattern done (the slots are kinda kicking my backside right now) --
Screenshot%202016-09-09%2018.05.01.png
 
LOL…!

I saw the thread title change & laughed; because I take it to read as BOTH High Performance & High Perforation…!

I like the looks of the black fasteners better than the shiny…

NOT feeling the newly added screw in front of the (sadly, blue) USB port…!

Kinda like the staggered (most recent render) perforations over the aligned perforations…

Have you given any more thought towards using the feet as thumb screws to secure the outer shell…?

I would think the best method might be to have four mounting points (braze-ons, to take from the bicycle world…?) on the bottom of the chassis, with holes in the flanges that wrap under the chassis…

This would allow for the thread room to secure the feet, without protruding INTO the chassis itself; the fitting would be flush with the outer shell when it is slipped into place, and the (rubber) feet would screw into the fittings, thereby securing the outer shell with no visible fasteners when the chassis is buttoned up…

The "thin felt strips" you mentioned to prevent scrapping & rattling would be a benefit here, as they would "tighten up" the fitment of the outer shell to the chassis proper once the feet / thumb screws were secured…

All in all, looking good so far; excited to see the Imperial Wall Panel Pattern #AG1138 rendering(s)…!
 
Well I need a fastener up there on top, but I am still trying to make it more discrete, a flathead would be nice but requires tight tolerancing on all the related parts (cover, chassis, front plate) to ensure good joint fit up.

Good thoughts on the case feet. I have been noodling it too, and having the same kind of thoughts bro! The big issue for me is how best to have the cover flex outward when unfastened, so it can be lifted up and removed without the bottom flange snagging things. And of course, when we flex it closed by pushing in at the bottom flanges, various areas might want to bulge outward (like halfway up the side wall). So I'm still thinking about it a bit. I do agree it would be fantastic to be able to execute.
 
I like it.

But yeah, now that the screw in front of the USB port has been pointed out I can't unsee it. That does annoy me slightly. For my two cents, I think blue USB looks fine though. :p

I sort of wish the front had more going on than a flat slab of metal with four screws sticking out but... honestly it looks fine, so whatever.
 
I like it.

But yeah, now that the screw in front of the USB port has been pointed out I can't unsee it. That does annoy me slightly. For my two cents, I think blue USB looks fine though. :p

I sort of wish the front had more going on than a flat slab of metal with four screws sticking out but... honestly it looks fine, so whatever.

The front is more than a flat slab of metal, it is a CANVAS; just add laser etched design of choice…!
 
The front is more than a flat slab of metal, it is a CANVAS; just add laser etched design of choice…!
It's funny, I was just thinking of how cool it'd look with like a Pokémon laser etched into it, lol. Yeah, I take it all back, I can definitely feel that. Carry on. :)
 
Well I need a fastener up there on top, but I am still trying to make it more discrete, a flathead would be nice but requires tight tolerancing on all the related parts (cover, chassis, front plate) to ensure good joint fit up.

Good thoughts on the case feet. I have been noodling it too, and having the same kind of thoughts bro! The big issue for me is how best to have the cover flex outward when unfastened, so it can be lifted up and removed without the bottom flange snagging things. And of course, when we flex it closed by pushing in at the bottom flanges, various areas might want to bulge outward (like halfway up the side wall). So I'm still thinking about it a bit. I do agree it would be fantastic to be able to execute.

What if, and I know it is a few more steps for the end user to gain access to the interior of the chassis; but what if you make the top have a tab that attaches to the front of the chassis, with the fitting / hardware actually concealed by the front panel itself…?

I dunno, just an initial thought (while thinking about the 'reversible' front panel you mention)…

Towards the feet / thumb screws; my initial thoughts with that were for an envisioned larger chassis… Something more Scan Design / Bang & Olufsen kinda deal; hardwood / bamboo front panel, rounded (like, half-circle radius / width / whatnot sized rounded) top & bottom… Stainless outer shell that would be virtually all perf, wrapping around / over the entire chassis… Held in place by the thumb screw feet; the full rounded top & bottom would take a lot of the stress / flex out of the fitment…?

My crackpot theory / armchair design imaginings at least…! ;^p

(…the dead space caused by the large rounding on the top & bottom of the chassis would actually be sized to fit a 184mm radiator <2 x 92mm, Hardware Labs> up top, with pump & reservoir in the lower rounding…)
 
Bump for Imperial Wall Panel Pattern #AG1138 rendering(s)…!
 
Any thought on adding a USB-C connector to the top panel as well? I know it is not utilized much but to future proof and make your case stand out more to potential buyers.
 
I also want to add that the top screw is really ugly. Could the fastener be on the bottom / Or use an internal clip?

Have you decided to go with the rounded corner design? For me I very much perfer the original square corner shape. I think the rounded top is moving away from the appeal of the original minimalist beauty.
 
I notice the top screw did not appear until the latest poll, showing up on Designs B thru F…

Definitely need a way to hide that, or lock down the tolerances to allow for a countersunk fastener…

As for the top corner design, I prefer the more rounded in the latest renderings…
 
Well got news from Li-Heat that they are still working on revising their PCIE riser. It won't be available for a while (months). I will be revising the PCIE riser mount, so it can handle various brands.

There is 3M of course, and I am looking at a couple others. There is Samtech, I do not have pricing but they are sending me a sample 300mm riser. I'm also looking at TC&C, who had quoted me about $45, and I'm waiting on an interface drawing.

On the glichy audio issue, they don't think they can do anything to improve their design for the low volumes I need, 30-100. I was researching other mfgrs all day, -- haven't found a solution yet. Worst case, we could leave off the USB and audio from the top. Just attach at the back of the case. All the MBs I know of would have the audio at the top on the back of the case. I'm running my prototype and only using those back ports, so I'll have some thoughts in a few days.

EDIT -- I think that I typically leave my headphones plugged in, so we'll see how big of a hassle it is.
 
Well got news from Li-Heat that they are still working on revising their PCIE riser. It won't be available for a while (months). I will be revising the PCIE riser mount, so it can handle various brands.

There is 3M of course, and I am looking at a couple others. There is Samtech, I do not have pricing but they are sending me a sample 300mm riser. I'm also looking at TC&C, who had quoted me about $45, and I'm waiting on an interface drawing.

On the glichy audio issue, they don't think they can do anything to improve their design for the low volumes I need, 30-100. I was researching other mfgrs all day, -- haven't found a solution yet. Worst case, we could leave off the USB and audio from the top. Just attach at the back of the case. All the MBs I know of would have the audio at the top on the back of the case. I'm running my prototype and only using those back ports, so I'll have some thoughts in a few days.

EDIT -- I think that I typically leave my headphones plugged in, so we'll see how big of a hassle it is.

3M is the Holy Grail of PCIe risers, so I am totally down with that; but another QUALITY replacement would be acceptable, as long as it is properly shielded & meets the PCIe 3.0 x16 spec…

I am TOTALLY okay with losing the front USB & audio i/o… This is such a compact chassis that connecting around back should not be a big deal at all… Plus, less cables inside, and maybe the top screw can be hidden better…? I dunno…

I would still love to see the chassis in a slotted venting pattern (aka Death Star) rendering…

Keep up the good work…! REALLY looking forward to this chassis…!
 
Well got news from Li-Heat that they are still working on revising their PCIE riser. It won't be available for a while (months). I will be revising the PCIE riser mount, so it can handle various brands.

There is 3M of course, and I am looking at a couple others. There is Samtech, I do not have pricing but they are sending me a sample 300mm riser. I'm also looking at TC&C, who had quoted me about $45, and I'm waiting on an interface drawing.

On the glichy audio issue, they don't think they can do anything to improve their design for the low volumes I need, 30-100. I was researching other mfgrs all day, -- haven't found a solution yet. Worst case, we could leave off the USB and audio from the top. Just attach at the back of the case. All the MBs I know of would have the audio at the top on the back of the case. I'm running my prototype and only using those back ports, so I'll have some thoughts in a few days.

EDIT -- I think that I typically leave my headphones plugged in, so we'll see how big of a hassle it is.

The USB port and Audio module was the only feature I did not like. So, if we can remove it... I do not have any reason to avoid to buy it... I will enjoy to order it. And as said Boil... less cable...less issue.
Keep your work ongoing. Your project is looking extremely good !!!
 
I also would not mind to lose the top audio and USB. Would be cleaner on the outside and less cabling inside.
 
Btw, the slotted / deathstar / thermaltake / caselabs horiz style is in work and almost done.

All my cad work is on my second fastest computer, a 3770, which is pretty good, but the software is single threaded, grr (amazing how much cpu time it takes to manipulate, process and refresh hundreds of holes or slots).
 
Ok, so far i see comments from peeps who dont mind the removal of usb and audio ports from the top front. Any other opinions?
 
I'd personally rather have the USB / audio on the front panel if at all. I don't need that stuff myself, but I know some ITX boards are fairly limited with USB connectivity, so I expect some people would want an extra port or two.
 
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I know that I would prefer to not have a hub on my desk if I can avoid it, and I also leave my headphones plugged-in all the time, so I'd vote for keeping them. Front or top doesn't matter, though.
 
I think we need a poll of this issue…!

I am now dreaming of a slightly larger version of this chassis; the Enthusiast Build…

Increase dimensions slightly to allow the AseTek 545LC 92mm AIO in the bottom of the chassis; the tradeoff there is losing all but one of the drive mounting locations (top front)…

Increase dimensions slightly to allow dual 92mm exhaust fans up top…

This would allow Haswell-E & Broadwell-E CPUs, with maybe a mild OC…

And the extra 'power exhaust' would help lower GPU temps as well…

If any of the water block manufacturers would get on board with some blocks for the new crop of ITX GPUs (meaning, the EVGA 1060 SC & the Gigabyte 1070), drop a compact pump/reservoir combo in the bottom of the chassis & place a 184mm radiator up top (dual 92mm from Hardware Labs), full custom loop water cooling in a (guesstimate) sub 8 liter chassis…!

With the rad up top & the two 92mm fans pushing air thru, the only source of air into the chassis would be the side vents, which should provide plenty of air intake…

Think about it; the MI-8…! The next chassis in the Firewolfy MI-x lineup…!

OH…! Do the radiator up top, the pump in the bottom, and have the front be a waterfall reservoir…!
 
Ok, I finished modeling the slots:
Screenshot%202016-09-12%2021.13.40.png


I know, the screws are unchanged, and I am working on a solution for that. Just block them out with your finger.

I like the slots quite a bit.

They are only .5" long, so they pass the ol' coin test. BUT, I'm finding that most standard slot punch dies are 1" or .75" so I have to see if my fabricator can do .5", or if we need to go to .75". - not the end of the world.
 
I like either the slots or the staggered 60 degree circles, both look really good IMO.
As far as the front USB/audio, I understand people like a cleaner front, but there are already screws on the front, so it isn't completely clean anyway. If there were no visible screws on the outside of the case, then I would be willing to sacrifice the front USB/audio. BUT, if they must go....please just move them to the back of the case. I would still like to have the front audio even if it is on the back. The location does not matter to me on a case this small as long as they are still there.

Edit: Okay, after looking at it some more, I think I like the way the slots look a little more than the circles :)
 
....please just move them to the back of the case. I would still like to have the front audio even if it is on the back. The location does not matter to me on a case this small as long as they are still there.

Why would you want to have an additional audio i/o squeezed into the back of the chassis, when the MB audio i/o is already there…?!?
 
I often plug a headset into the front headphone/mic and set my voice communication program to use the front-panel I/O and at the same time I will have speakers plugged in to the back for the rest of the sounds from the computer. Sometimes I just like to have voice comms and other sounds/music separate
 
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